Royal Mistresses’ Kin: Dukes of La Vallière and Antin

One of the most powerful positions a woman could hold at any royal court, but particularly that of France, was the ‘recognised’ royal mistress, the open secret that everyone at court knew about. It was one of the only pathways for a woman to get a dukedom on her own in the ancien regime, as a means to recognise her ‘service to the crown’ and to ensure she could occupy spaces at court reserved exclusively for noblewomen of highest rank. Often the long-term beneficiary of these ducal creations, however, was the mistress’s male relatives. But in the case of two of Louis XIV’s mistresses, Louise de La Vallière and Françoise-Athénaïs de Rochechouart, Marquise de Montespan, these relatives had to wait for quite some time before basking in the glory of their family’s royal favourite.

Louise de la Vallière with her children by Louis XIV: Marie-Anne, Mlle de Blois (future Princess of Conti) and Louis, Count of Vermandois

Part of the reason for this was that Louise and Françoise-Athénaïs differed significantly from each other in terms of the world of dukes and princes: Louise was unmarried, but Madame de Montespan had a husband. This meant that Louise could be given a duchy (Vaujours, later called La Vallière) directly, whereas it would have been awkward to give one to Françoise-Athénaïs, since it would have elevated her husband too (and the Marquis de Montespan by law could even have claimed Louis XIV’s illegitimate children as his own). So while Louise’s duchy was eventually passed on to her nephew, Charles-François de La Baume le Blanc, Madame de Montespan’s male children by the King were given their own duchy-peerages directly (Aumale, Penthièvre, and so on), and only in 1711 was her legitimate son (ie, with her husband), Louis-Antoine de Pardaillan de Gondrin, raised in rank to Duke of Antin. In part, both dukedoms, La Vallière and Antin, were created to recognise a degree of kinship—in a roundabout way—that these men would share with the future king of France.

The families who held these two dukedoms were also different. Louise came from a relatively minor and relatively new noble family from the Loire valley, La Baume Le Blanc, whereas the family of Françoise-Athénaïs, Rochechouart, was prominent and ancient (see a separate blog post on them), while the family of her husband, the Marquis de Montespan (the Duke of Antin’s father), Pardaillan de Gondrin, were equally much more prominent at court, and their roots as provincial nobles stretched back to the very earliest days of the French monarchy.

So we can start with the House of Pardaillan, deep in the south of France, in the province of Gascony. It was a fief of the semi-autonomous county of Armagnac. This county was subdivided into baronies, and Pardaillan was one of the oldest of these. The castle of Pardaillan, today in the region of Condomois (in the modern départment of the Gers), dominated a hamlet just outside the town of Beaucaire, on the river Baïse, which flows north out of the Pyrenees to join the mighty Garonne on its way to the Atlantic. Also spelled Pardailhan or Pardeilhan, the castle probably takes its name from an ancient owner, Pardalius, which seems to relate to the word for panther or leopard. There is evidence of a villa here from the Merovingian period at least (6th or 7th century). The medieval castle was built in the early 14th century, and when the family split in the 13th century, it was kept by the senior line until it died out in the early 17th century. The castle of Pardaillan passed into other hands and fell into ruin, and its remains were pulled down in the Revolution.

the medieval divisions of Gascony, including the county of Armagnac, and the counties of Comminges and Bigorre (see below)
Chateau de Pardaillan

A short distance to the northwest is the château of Gondrin, erected as a small fortress in the 14th century, the period when this region was ravaged by French and English armies in the 100 Years War. It became the main seat of the now secondary branch of the family. It was redeveloped as a more grandiose château in the early 17th century, but little remains today. Another of the family’s properties built nearby was Beaumont, also improved in the late 17th century, survives today as a model of French baroque style. Today it is the home of writer and television/radio producer Ève Ruggieri, whose parents restored it from a ruined state. The château hosts summer classical music programmes, and its châtelaine has made a point of celebrating the connection with Madame de Montespan, though I wonder how much time the famous royal mistress would have actually spent there.

artist’s rendering of what the chateau de Gondrin may have looked like
Chateau and gardens of Beaumont-sur-l’Osse

The earliest members of the noble house which used both names, Pardaillan and Gondrin, appear in the 11th century, but details are patchy until the 13th, when one, Hugues, rises to local prominence to become Bishop of Tarbes (1227) and Archbishop of Auch (1244)—both major ecclesiastical powers in the far south of France. A nephew, Bernard, Lord of Pardaillan and Gondrin, established his family’s credibility as Christian warriors by accompanying Louis IX on his crusade to Tunis in 1270. Others served more locally in the wars led by their feudal lord, the Count of Armagnac.

Several offshoot branches were founded in the Middle Ages, and more lordships were acquired by the branch of Gondrin, notably the lordship of Castillon (c. 1400), in the area downriver from Bordeaux known as the Médoc (now on the edge of the village of Saint-Christoly). Its incredibly ancient tower still stands, though it has served as a home for pigeons (a pigeonnier) since the 18th century. The coat-of-arms for this family, three moors’ heads over a castle, were added to the wavy blue and white lines of the Gondrin arms.

the remains of the tower of the castle of Castillon-en-Médoc, overlooking the Gironde estuary
The Pardaillan de Gondrin arms from the 17th century, with Castillon in upper left, and Montespan overall

In 1521, Antoine de Pardaillan, Baron de Gondrin and Viscount of Castillon, married Paule d’Espagne, daughter of the Lord of Montespan. Montespan was much further south in a county called Comminges, quite close to the Pyrenees (see map above). A local noble family said to be a cadet branch of the counts of Comminges took the name ‘Mont d’Espagne’ in the 13th century, and this evolved into Montespan. Antoine assumed the title Baron de Montespan and added the family’s red lion with several small green escutcheons to his own coat-of-arms. He raised the family profile higher through military service in the region, first for the King of Navarre (for whom he also acted as governor and seneschal of that king’s core lordship of Albret, a short distance to the west of Gondrin; and his brother was appointed governor of the neighbouring county of Armagnac), and later for Charles IX in the fight against Protestant rebels in the south of France.

the ruins of the chateau de Montespan

Antoine and Paule had a son named Hector, Baron de Montespan, who became Captain of the King’s Guard and a Councillor of State. He too married yet another heiress, Jeanne d’Antin, in 1561, whose lordship of Antin was also situated in one of the ancient Pyrenean counties, this time Bigorre, to the west of Comminges, which bordered on the sovereign principality of Béarn. This castle too probably took its name from an ancient owner, someone named Antinus. In the Middle Ages, the County of Bigorre belonged to the Count of Foix, which like Béarn, was a semi-sovereign territory. Only after 1607 therefore were these lands, and thus Antin, formally united to the Kingdom of France.

Antin was raised to the status of a marquisate in 1612, as was Montespan three years later, for Antoine-Arnaud de Pardaillan de Gondrin. He had long been a devoted soldier in the service of his fellow Gascon, King Henry IV, and commanded his armies when the King attended to other business away from the front. The King in turn appointed the Marquis Governor of Navarre and Béarn, and later of Agenais and Condomois, sub-regions of Aquitaine (over which he acted as the King’s Lieutenant-General). At court, Antoine-Arnaud was Captain of the Premier Company of the King’s Guard and a member of the Privy Council. His career was crowned with the award of the Order of the Holy Spirit in 1619, the highest order of knighthood in France. By his first marriage, the first Marquis de Montespan had two daughters, through whom he secured kinship relations with two of the leading families of the far south: Albret and Foix. By the second marriage, to Paule de Saint-Lary, sister of the Duke of Bellegarde, one of the great war companions and favourites of Henry IV, he added even further to his family’s patrimony—though not right away.

Antoine-Arnaud, Marquis de Montespan

Paule de Saint-Lary’s son Jean-Antoine was ultimately heir to her brother the Duke of Bellegarde, when he died in 1646; and for good measure, Jean-Antoine married his first cousin, the daughter and heiress of his mother’s other brother, the Baron de Termes, in 1643. Although the Saint-Lary family, like the Montespans, came from Comminges, their duchy of Bellegarde (cr. 1619) was based on the town of Seure on the Saône river, the frontier between Burgundy and Franche-Comté (which until the 1670s was still an international frontier). By 1645, that property had been sold to the Prince of Condé, so the title ‘duchy-peerage’ was transferred onto another property in Gâtinois (the flat plain between Paris and the Loire valley), Choisy-aux-Loges, which had been acquired by the old Duke just before he died in 1646. But the attempted transfer of the duchy-peerage (the title, not just the land) took place in the confusing days of the Regency of Louis XIV, and was never formally recognised by the Parlement of Paris. The other Saint-Lary property added at this time was Termes (or Thermes), another lordship in Comminges, which therefore added to the family’s already extensive lands in that province.

There had been a château at Choisy (or Soisy; with the added name of –aux-Loges indicating its position in the forest of that name) since the mid-14th century. It was the seat of the powerful de l’Hôpital family in the 15th and 16th century, and was rebuilt by one of its most prominent members, who became Marquis de Choisy. After Roger de Saint-Lary acquired it and tried to transfer his duchy-peerage onto it, the name of the castle and the village was changed to Bellegarde; it remained in the possession of Jean-Antoine’s widow, Anne-Marie, until she sold it to her great-nephew Louis-Henri, Marquis de Montespan (below). After he was created Duke of Antin, he made it his main residence and greatly enlarged it, on a scale more appropriate for a duke—in the 1720s he added two wings housing a new chapel and a gallery to display his art collection, plus a grand stable with its own triumphal gate complete with sculpted horses’ heads attributed to the famous sculptor Antoine Coysevox. In the 1770s, the Château de Bellegarde was purchased by a President of the Parlement of Paris (Pierre-Paul Gilbert de Voisins), who took the title Marquis de Bellegarde. Today the château is managed by the town which in recent years has invested in opening up its spaces in the gardens and the ancient donjon for tourism.

Chateau des Ducs d’Antin, Bellegarde (formerly Choisy)
the donjon at Bellegarde

Jean-Antoine, 2nd Marquis de Montespan (and sometimes called, unofficially, ‘Duc de Bellegarde’), had been raised by his uncle Bellegarde as his heir, and already from the 1620s was taking over his uncle’s familiarity with the royal family, becoming one of Louis XIII’s Masters of the Wardrobe at court, and his Lieutenant-General in Armagnac, Bigorre and Comminges. Meanwhile two of his brothers (known as the Marquis d’Antin and the Marquis de Termes) were placed in key positions in the household of the King’s brother, Gaston, Duke of Orléans; still other brothers were put into the Church or the Order of Malta. One of these, Louis-Henri de Pardaillan, rose through the church hierarchy to become Archbishop of Sens, one of the most important positions in the French church, in 1646. He died as a fairly old man in 1674, while his eldest brother the Marquis lived even longer and died at age 85 in 1687. It’s interesting to think these two throwbacks from the very early decades of the century were still alive during the ascendancy of Madame de Montespan.

Louis-Henri, Archbishop of Sens

It was thus the 3rd Marquis de Montespan, Louis-Henri, who became the famous cuckold of Louis XIV, not too long after he had married one of the beauties of the French court, a daughter of the Duke of Mortemart, in 1663. This marriage brought him not only prestige, since the Rochechouarts were one of the oldest and most eminent noble houses in France, but also badly needed cash. His uncle still held the bulk of the family properties; but ceded the title Montespan to his nephew as heir; Louis-Henri also inherited the marquisate of Antin from his father, Roger-Hector, who had died when he was still very young. Like his uncle, this Marquis de Montespan also had a number of brothers who made use of the family’s numerous titles (again one was Marquis d’Antin and the other Marquis de Termes), while others were placed in the Order of Malta. Curiously, his mother, Marie-Christine Zamet (granddaughter of the famous Italian financier, Sebastiano Zametti), was part-heiress of yet another major southern family, that of Nogaret de la Valette, whose principal dukedom of Epernon had been created for one of the favourites of King Henri III in 1581. The Nogarets were also closely related to the Saint-Lary de Bellegarde family, so this was another part of this large coalition of properties held by this noble kinship group in the far south of France. The Duchy of Epernon itself however was not in the south, but based on a property near Chartres, and it is primarily this estate which the Pardaillan family was able to grab for itself after the death of the last duke in 1661. So, if Louis XIV had been feeling more generous towards Louis-Henri at the time he was creating lots of duchy-peerages (the early 1660s), the future mistress might already have been either Duchess of Bellegarde or Duchess of Epernon.

Louis-Henri, Marquis de Montespan

But Louis XIV did not particularly care for the Marquis de Montespan, and particularly once he wanted him out of the way due to his affair with his wife, from about 1666. At that time, both the Marquis and the Marquise served in the household of Madame, Henriette-Anne of England, Duchess of Orléans (the King’s sister-in-law), he as chevalier d’honneur and she as a lady-in-waiting. They had two small children, Marie-Christine and Louis-Antoine, and lived in a small house near the Louvre. Montespan’s debts, despite his wife’s large dowry, pushed him to pursue military commands, so he went to serve in the army occupying Lorraine and then on the expedition to North Africa in 1664. When the King sent him on another mission far away from court, this time to the Spanish frontier, he became suspicious, and in 1667 his fears were confirmed when his wife became pregnant. The Marquis re-appeared at court and made a loud scandal—some sources say he rode around town with cuckold’s horns; others say he deliberately tried to get a venereal disease from a prostitute to then pass on to the King via his wife. He was briefly imprisoned in Paris for publicly insulting the King, then retreated to Gascony, taking his children with him. Here he stayed until he died in 1691 (though some sources say 1702).

In Gascony, the Marquis de Montespan and his children lived at the Château de Bonnefont, an old family property in Bigorre on the river Baïse. Here Marie-Christine died as a teenager—supposedly from grief from missing her mother. At Bonnefont, Montespan is said to have organised a grand funeral ceremony, including interment, for his lost love. He considered himself a virtual widower. This ancient castle had an air of elegance in its newer buildings.  By the 19th century it was sold to a religious order who opened a school—it then went through several versions of college or training centres, and today hosts a school for mentally handicapped children. Its main tower, facing collapse, was dismantled in 1972.

Chateau de Bonnefont

Meanwhile, in Paris, Madame de Montespan was the virtual queen of the court, as a much more dominant personality than the actual queen (Marie-Thérèse of Spain). She and the King had four children that survived childhood: the Duke of Maine, Mlle de Nantes, Mlle de Blois and the Count of Toulouse. In 1674, she obtained a legal separation from her husband, mostly to protect these children’s future inheritance, for example the beautiful château she built near Versailles, Champs, which ultimately passed to the Duke of Maine. From 1677, however, her star was falling, partly due to her involvement in the Affair of the Poisons. Louis wanted to give her the normal ‘parting gift’ of a duchy, but, not wishing to elevate her husband, he named her Superintendant of the Queen’s Household—the top position for a woman at court—with the right to sit in the presence of the Queen, as if she were a duchess. By the 1680s she was definitely out of favour, and in 1691 she retired from the court altogether to a convent in Paris.

The Marquise de Montespan

In 1695, Madame de Montespan purchased a house in the town of Evry, on the heights above the Seine southeast of Paris (on the road to Fontainebleau), as a retreat for herself, Petit-Bourg. When she died in 1707, it passed to her son, Antin, who reconstructed it on a grander scale from 1716, notably its gardens, and when his line died out in the 1750s, it was purchased by the widow of a Parisian official who demolished it and built another—the neoclassical building seen until 1944, when it too was destroyed.

Petit-Bourg in the time of the Duke of Antin

Montespan’s son also inherited the lordship and château at Oiron, in Poitou, south of the Loire (not far from the Abbey of Fontevraud). This was a much grander country house, the seat of the Gouffier family who rose as royal favourites of King François I in the early 16th century. It was the site in particular of one of the most spectacular art collections of the Renaissance. When the Gouffier family (dukes of Roannais) died out in the 1660s, their titles and artworks passed to the Marshal de la Feuillade, who refurbished and modernised it in the 1670s, then sold it to Montespan for her son in 1700. It became one of her preferred residences at the end of her life, but her son preferred Bellegarde and Oiron fell out of use. Indebted, Antin’s widow sold it in 1739 to the Duke of Villeroy—after that it passed through various hands, largely restored in the late 19th century and today open as a museum.

the chateau of Oiron

Much of the Marquis d’Antin’s career was, naturally, promoted by his mother. Even though her star was in the wane after 1680, she brought young Louis-Antoine to court from Gascony in 1683, secured him a military commission, but more importantly, drew him into the circle of the (then assumed) future king, the Grand Dauphin, by marrying him to the grand-daughter of the Dauphin’s old governor, the Duke of Montausier. He also became close to his and the Dauphin’s half-brothers, the illegitimate sons of the King. The year of Antin’s marriage (1686) he was appointed Lieutenant-General of Upper and Lower Alsace, the military equivalent to the governor of the province, but failed to make more of an impact at court until after his disgraced mother died in 1707. In that year he was appointed Governor of Orléannais, a more substantial province (and closer to court) than Alsace; and the next year was named Superintendent of the King’s Building Works. This was an unusual appointment for a noble grandee—normally it was held by one of the King’s lower-ranking ministers—but it brought Antin great access to the King who loved his building projects, and also gave Antin access to all the King’s greatest architects and designers, whom he employed on his own projects at Petit-Bourg and Bellegarde. It turned out he was a very good organiser, and helped Louis XIV and then Louis XV on their various building projects at Versailles and other royal sites. Antin also built his own grand residence in Paris, the Hôtel d’Antin, in the area just on the northwest edge of the old city, in the district now close to the grand department stores. The house no longer stands, but one of the streets in the area bears its name, the Chausée d’Antin.

Louis-Antoine de Pardaillan de Gondrin, Duke of Antin

Finally, in 1711, Louis-Antin was raised to the peerage always denied his father. It was called Antin, not Montespan, and was based on the marquisate of Antin, which had four baronies joined it to form the dukedom, including the barony of Miélan, on the borders between Bigorre and Armagnac, which, due to its situation on the main road between Tarbes and Auch, became its main administrative centre, though it was never a ducal residence. Closer to court, he also held the estates of the duchies of Bellegarde and Epernon, both conveniently located quite close to his government in the Orléannais and the Loire Valley.

Before we follow the 1st Duke of Antin’s children into the 18th century, we should look closer at the Loire Valley and the family of Madame de Montespan’s rival, Louise de La Vallière.

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Compared to the family of Pardaillan de Gondrin in Gascony, Louise’s family had its roots much closer to the royal court, particularly when French kings spent more of their lives in the Loire Valley in the 16th and early 17th centuries. The family of La Baume Le Blanc de La Vallière were prominent nobles in the town of Tours—not far from favourite royal residences at Blois and Amboise—and held lucrative estates north of the river in Touraine. It was this proximity to royal residences that first brought Louise de La Vallière to the attention of the Bourbons in the 1650s, as we will see.

The Le Blanc family were originally from the Bourbonnais, with estates on the borders with the province of Berry. Here they had a castle called La Baume, on the left bank of the river Allier, and they eventually added La Baume to their surname. The term ‘la baume’ itself comes from local patois for a rocky outcropping. In the Bourbonnais, a castle was built in the 14th century, and held by the Le Blanc family who were also captains of other local castles for the dukes of Bourbon. The earliest member of the family in most family trees is Perrin Le Blanc who commanded the arrière-ban of the feudal armies of Bourbonnais and Auvergne against the English in 1425. But by about 1550, the senior line of the family died out, and the junior line, rising to greater prominence, was now based in Touraine. The ancient castle of La Baume was sold; what is there today was built by different owners, in the mid-18th century.

an old postcard from La Baume in Bourbonnais

Like many families from the more minor provincial nobility of the 15th century, the pathway to a rise in power and wealth was often through service in the judiciary system. Laurent Le Blanc de La Baume, the youngest son of Perrin, thus moved to Paris and became a procureur (a public prosecutor) at the Châtelet, the main law court for the city of Paris. He acquired his own lordships close to the capital, Choisy-sur-Seine and Puiselet.

It’s an interesting coincidence, but just a coincidence, that both of these two families of royal mistresses were associated with a lordship called Choisy, and in fact this one is associated more in people’s memories with a third mistress, Madame de Pompadour. This Choisy was close to Paris, in the district to the south and east in which many of Paris’ elite judiciary and financial families built country homes to get away from the stench of urban streets. The medieval lordship of Choisy, on the Seine, had initially belonged to the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris. After its time in Le Blanc de La Baume hands, it became a property desired by royals: in 1678, it was purchased by Louis XIV’s cousin, the Duchess of Montpensier (aka, ‘La Grande Mademoiselle’) who built a new château here for herself and developed its gardens; this passed by inheritance to the Dauphin when she died in 1693, and he soon exchanged it for the château of Meudon closer to Versailles. It was then purchased in 1716 by the Dowager Princesse de Conti, daughter of Louise de La Vallière—another coincidence? or was she conscious that it had once belonged to her mother’s family? At her death in 1739 it was acquired by Louis XV, and it became one of his favourite hunting grounds. It was this King who installed Madame de Pompadour here once she was firmly placed as his mistress in 1746. Considered to be one of the most beautiful baroque palaces of the age of Louis XIV, Choisy (at this point renamed Choisy-le-Roi) was mostly destroyed in the Revolution.

The Chateau de Choisy in the time of the Duchess of Montpensier

Jumping back to the end of the 15th century, Laurent Le Blanc de La Baume’s eldest son Hugues also became a public prosecutor in Paris and married the daughter of one of the head officials at the Châtelet, while his daughter married into another one of Paris’s leading families, the Séguiers. A second son did what second sons do and joined the army—and was killed in battle in northern Italy in 1525. The two youngest sons neither stayed in Paris nor joined the army, but acquired rural estates in Touraine, and by the 1530s shifted the family focus south to the Loire valley.

Another Laurent Le Blanc, son of Hugues, acquired the lordship of La Vallière in Touraine in about 1542. Over the next two decades he acquired several other nearby lordships. And he continued to serve the Crown: as a royal secretary, as master of the household of Queen Eléonore (wife of François I), as tax collector for the province of Maine (next to Touraine) and a high ranking tax official for the city of Bordeaux. In 1558 he was elected to serve a year’s term as Mayor of Tours. But though he did ‘work’ in finance and governance, he also made sure to submit his proofs of nobility in 1550 to ensure his status and privileges as a nobleman (ie, someone who did not ‘work’). His residences proudly bore a noble coat of arms, the distinctive La Baume Le Blanc shield sporting a leopard rearing on its hind legs divided horizontally into two halves, silver and black, against an equally divided field of red and gold.

La Baume Le Blanc arms in the 18th century

The château at La Vallière was rebuilt at about this time, replacing an older fortress from the 14th century. Set in a wooded valley northeast of Tours, near the town of Reugny, its location close to Amboise, Chenonceaux and other famous castles of the Loire Valley made it a highly prized residence for the family in the 17th and 18th centuries, and for their successors in the 19th century (dukes of Uzès then counts of Rougé). It was owned by various others until it was converted into a luxury hotel in 2018, the ‘Château Louise de la Vallière’.

Chateau of Louise de La Vallière

Meanwhile in the city of Tours itself, Laurent II built the Hôtel de la Vallière, in a very central location on the Grand Rue, with gardens behind leading down to the banks of the Loire. This grand house was the scene of much history in Tours: Laurent’s sons received King Henri III here in 1589 after he was chased from Paris by the forces of the Catholic League, and then the next king, Henri IV, later that same year when he was preparing to march north to claim his capital. Louise was born here, but it was sold soon after, in 1655, and became known as the Hôtel de la Crouzille. The house was destroyed in 1940, though elements remain.

a sketch of the rear of the Hotel de La Vallière

Laurent’s son Jean maintained the family’s balance between office-holding in Tours and positions in the royal household: he was Master of the Household and Secretary of the Duc d’Alençon (Charles IX’s younger brother), 1567, then Master of Household of Alençon’s mother, Queen Catherine de Medici, 1579, later filling that same role for Henry IV, 1589, then his divorced wife, Queen Margot—he remained in her household as chevalier d’honneur as late as 1610. In Tours he was Mayor in 1588 and commander of the royal residence on the edge of the city, Plessis-lès-Tours. Jean Le Blanc continued his link with the world of royal finance as well, as Director-General of Finances for Languedoil (ie northern France) and Intendent General of Finances for one of the royal armies in 1590. His wife Charlotte Adam de La Gasserie, daughter of another Master of the Household of the Queen Mother (Catherine de Medici), was herself a Dame d’honneur to the same queen. But Jean and Charlotte had no children, so their estates passed in the next generation to their nieces and nephews, children of another Laurent Le Blanc, and Anne’s younger sister, Marie Adam, heiress of the lordship of La Gasserie, nearly adjacent to the lordship of La Vallière in Touraine.

By this point, the family were pursuing more purely ‘noble’ careers, in a typical scenario seen in provincial noble families who grew rich and influential from service to the royal court: the eldest, Laurent III, joined the army and was killed at the siege of Ostende in 1602. The second son Jean thus took over as head of the family, and secured their advance in the noble hierarchy through a marriage in 1609 to a daughter from one of more prominent families in this region, Françoise de Beauvau. From early posts as equerry in the royal stables and gendarme in the Company of the Dauphin in 1609, he became governor of the château of Amboise and of the city of Tours, and eventually the King’s lieutenant-general in Amboise, 1639. His own children did not look back at all to the world of finance, and made marriages entirely within the nobility and forged careers in the military or the church. Of the clerics, Gilles was a canon in the Cathedral of Saint-Martin in Tours, then rose to become Bishop of Nantes in 1667; while Jacques became a Jesuit who died on a mission to the West Indies. Of the older sons who joined the military, three were killed in various battles of the Thirty Years War—one of these, François, Chevalier de La Vallière, was on the cusp of being named Commander of French forces in Catalonia in 1646 when he was killed in the siege of Lerida.

The eldest son, Laurent V, continued in his father’s post as the King’s Lieutenant in Amboise. By this point, the 1640s-50s, the uncle of the young Louis XIV, Gaston, Duke of Orléans, was living mostly at his preferred residence nearby at Blois, and spending much of his time socialising in Tours. It was this opportunity that Laurent and his wife Françoise le Prevost seized to place their daughter Louise into the household of Gaston, as a companion to his daughters of the same age. After both Gaston and Laurent’s deaths, the widow La Vallière stayed connected to the royal family by re-marrying the Marquis de Saint-Remy, Master of the Household of the now Dowager Duchess of Orléans (Marguerite de Lorraine). It was this connection that brought young Louise to court in 1662, where she was placed in the household of the new Duchess of Orléans (Henrietta Anne of England) as a fille d’honneur. And from here, she was spotted by the King and soon became his first principal mistress.

Louise de La Vallière as the goddess Diana

In 1666, Louis XIV acquired a lordship in Touraine not too far from La Vallière called Vaujours, and in 1667 he joined it to La Vallière and the nearby lordships of Châteaux and Saint-Christophe to form a duchy. The royal genealogist of the period, Père Anselme, says that Châteaux was the premier barony of Anjou, while Saint-Christophe was the premier barony of Touraine, meaning these were all pretty significant estates. The resultant duchy of Vaujours, aka La Vallière, was created with a peerage for Louise and for her daughter, Marie-Anne de Bourbon, known as ‘Mlle de Blois’ until she married the King’s cousin, the Prince of Conti. In 1674, Louise left court and entered a Carmelite convent in Paris, taking the name ‘Soeur Louise de la Miséricorde’—to try to wash away her sins of adultery. She left the duchy of Vaujours to her daughter, who enjoyed its revenue and the chief residence at La Vallière until she in turn donated it to her first cousin, the Marquis de La Vallière. Louise lived in her convent until she died in 1710; her daughter the Dowager Princess of Conti lived well into the reign of Louis XV and died in 1739.

Louise as a nun
Marie-Anne de Bourbon, Dowager Princesse de Conti, Duchess of Vaujours

The ‘other’ château at the heart of the duchy (and confusingly, the nearby village is today called ‘Château-la-Vallière’) was the château de Vaujours, across the border from La Vallière (in Touraine) in the neighbouring province of Anjou, within the lordship of Châteaux. Also nestled in a forested valley (the ‘Val-Joyeux’ which gave it its name), this castle had been built as a defensive structure in the early middle ages when the counts of Anjou were often at war with the kings of France who held neighbouring Touraine. The local Alluye family fortified the château in the 15th century against the English, and with its two moats, it was nearly impregnable, never taken. It then passed to other powerful families of Anjou until the Bueil family sold it to Louis XIV in 1666, as above. In the 19th century, it was sold to an English aristocrat, Thomas Stanhope Holland, but it soon fell into ruin. When I visited the area a few years ago it was dilapidated and closed to the public, but I have read that it has since been spruced up and re-opened.

The Chateau de Vaujours

There were only two dukes of La Vallière: Charles-François, Louise’s nephew, and his son. Charles-François was the son of Jean-François, Louise’s brother, who had started to rise to great heights through his sister’s royal favour, as Governor of the Bourbonnais from 1670, and Captain-Commandant of the Light Cavalry in the regiment of the Dauphin. But he died at only 34 in 1676, leaving everything to his two sons.

Charles-François was thus an orphan at age 6. Nevertheless he succeeded his father as Governor of the Bourbonnais (though actually administered by his cousin and surrogate mother, the Dowager Princess of Conti). Like Montespan’s son, he was placed in the household of the Dauphin and was signed up to be a musketeer to learn his trade in the military. By 1692 he was commander of his own cavalry regiment, and he led these in battle (now as a brigadier general) in the War of Spanish Succession, notably at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704. He was then promoted field marshal, and lieutenant-general by 1709. In 1698, the Dowager Princess of Conti ceded him the Duchy of Vaujours; Louis XV re-erected it more formally into a peerage in 1723 and changed its name to La Vallière. Also in 1698, the Duke of Vaujours married Marie-Thérèse de Noailles, daughter of the 2nd Duke of Noailles—one of Louis XIV’s more successful generals—whose brother married that same year the niece and designated heiress of the last of Louis XIV’s mistresses, Madame de Maintenon. So now all of them are getting into this story (and we’ll see the Noailles family again below).

Charles-François de La Baume Le Blanc, Duc de La Vallière

The Duke and Duchess of La Vallière lived at Champs, another of the small pleasure palaces popping up all around the Isle de France in this period. Champs was situated on the banks of the river Marne, east of Paris. It had been an ancient fief of the Montmorency family, then held by various others in the 17th century, before it was purchased by one royal financier, Renouard de la Touraine, who built a new château here, then by another, Poisson de Bourvallais, after the first was caught doing financial misdeeds and had his lands confiscated. The latter of these also had his properties confiscated in 1716, and the Crown sold it to the Dowager Princess of Conti, who immediately ceded it to her cousin the Duke of Vaujours. Champs was leased to Madame de Pompadour in the 1750s, and it is she who is still commemorated there, as a historical site restored in the 1890s by its aristocratic owners and turned over to the state in 1935. It has again been wonderfully restored in the last decade and re-opened to the public.

The Chateau of Champs-sur-Marne

The 1st Duke of La Vallière resigned his peerage to his son, Louis-César, in 1732—though the 2nd Duke used the title Duke of Vaujours until his father died in 1739. The younger Duke hosted a regular literary salon at Champs, and was a close companion of Louis XV and later of Madame de Pompadour to whom he later (in the 1750s) leased this property. He himself focused instead on developing another property, Montrouge. This new château was built in close proximity to royal hunting grounds on the flat plain just south of the city of Paris. La Vallière’s royal favour through a shared love of the hunt was strengthened by his appointment as Grand Falconer of France in 1748, and Captain of the Hunt at Montrouge. His new château there also hosted his growing collection of books–which were the focus of some major book sales after his death. Most of the town of Montrouge was annexed to the City of Paris in 1860, and the crumbling chateau was demolished in the 1870s to make way for a new town hall.

Louis-César, 2nd Duke of La Vallière

The 2nd Duke of La Vallière was, like his father and grandfather, governor of their family’s ancient home province, the Bourbonnais. He was a brigadier in the army, but not a particularly noteworthy commander. He lived until 1780, as a recognised bibliophile and patron and protector of poets and playwrights. When he died his properties passed to his only daughter, Adrienne-Emilie, who married the Duke of Châtillon. As a widow, she called herself the Duchess of Châtillon and La Vallière, though the peerage was in fact extinct from her father’s death. From here, the properties in Touraine passed through another daughter into the House of Crussol, dukes of Uzès.

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Returning to the descendants of Madame de Montespan, we see this same family marrying one of its co-heiresses in the mid-18th century into the House of Crussol d’Uzès, as well as another marriage with the family of Noailles—the sister of the 1st Duchess of La Vallière, above, was set to become the 2nd Duchess of Antin, but her husband died long before his father, the 1st Duke—Montespan’s son. But she (Marie-Victoire de Noailles) went on to marry the Count of Toulouse in 1723, tying the Pardaillan family even closer to the King’s illegitimate sons. (in fact she had to keep this marriage a secret at first, since marrying your late husband’s father’s half-brother—so, half-uncle?—was dangerously close to the edges of the incest laws). The Countess of Toulouse remained a powerful figure in the early days of the reign of Louis XV, filling in for the mother he never knew. It was thus good to have her in the Antin corner.

Marie-Victoire de Noailles, first Marquise d e Gondrin, then Countess of Toulouse, as an older woman

Louis-Antoine, 1st Duke of Antin had been well set up in his career by the time Louis XIV died in 1715. As someone who was so closely related to the royal family, and who was already proving himself as a skilled administrator (as Superintendent of the King’s Buildings), he was an easy choice by the Regent, the Duke of Orléans, for a seat on the Regency Council, and in particular as head of the Sub-Council of the Interior. Antin remained on the Regency Council until it ended, when Louis XV came of age, in 1722, then retired to the countryside. By that point his son Louis had died (1712, age only 24) so he ceded his peerage in 1724 to his grandson, also named Louis. The 1st Duke died in 1736.

Louis, 2nd Duke of Antin, was also called ‘Duke of Epernon’, as successful claimant to the lands of that duchy near Chartres (see above). He and his brother were looked after by their mother, now Countess of Toulouse, and by their uncle, Pierre de Pardaillan, who also in 1724 became Bishop of Langres, one of the premier bishoprics (with the rank of duke) in France. The 2nd Duke’s younger brother, Antoine-François, became Governor of Alsace and a Vice-Admiral in the Atlantic fleet. But like their father, neither the 2nd Duke nor his brother lived very long, both dying in their thirties.

Pierre de Pardaillan, Bishop of Langres

This left only one son, three sisters, and two widows. The 3rd Duke of Antin, Louis, lived only 20 years and died in Germany in 1757. His eldest sister, Julie-Sophie, became Abbess of Fontevraud, one of the most famous abbeys in France, in 1765—she would be the last head of this prestigious royal convent, as it was shut down during her tenure in 1792. The other sisters were co-heiresses of the vast estates of the Pardaillain de Gondrin, Saint-Lary de Belleville and Nogaret d’Epernon families. One married the Marquis de Civrac and the other her cousin the Duke of Uzès. Although there were distant cousins of the Pardaillan family living in the provinces that continued on into the modern era, by 1780 both families of the Dukes of Antin and La Vallière, the kin of royal mistresses, were extinct.

Another view of the Chateau de La Valliere, today a luxury hotel

The Duke of Terceira and the House that Manuel built

In the middle of the Atlantic lies a small green island, known as Terceira, as the ‘third’ island to be discovered in the Azores archipelago by Portuguese navigators in the mid-15th century. At over a thousand miles off the coast of the mainland, Terceira would not normally be thought of as a likely seat for a dukedom. And it wasn’t, really, but it did give its name to one, created in 1832, for one of the defenders of liberal government in Portugal, Antonio José de Sousa Manoel de Menezes Saverim de Noronha, 7th Count of Vila Flor. He was given this title in honour of the attack he launched from the island of Terceira earlier that year to defend the rights of the Queen Maria II against her usurping uncle, and a proponent of royal absolutism, Dom Miguel, Duke of Beja. The Duke of Terceira would remain a prominent figure in Portuguese politics for the next two decades, with several terms as Prime Minister.

the Island of Terceira, as depicted in the 16th century

Picking one name out of the extremely complex surname of the Duke of Terceira, ‘Manoel’ links this Portuguese nobleman to a much more extensive dynastic network, with branches in both Portugal and Spain. All of them claimed descent in one way or another from a royal prince, the Infante Manuel, who lived in the middle of the 13th century. By the early 19th century, the Duke of Terceira was the head of the Portuguese branch of the House of Manuel (spelled Manoel in Portuguese, though not always); while the Count of Via Manuel was head of the family in Spain. Ultimately, the Spanish branch would also receive a dukedom, Arévalo del Rey, but not until 1903. A third dukedom appears briefly in this family’s story, that of Tancos, also in Portugal, which only lasts from 1790 to 1791. Reaching much further back to the earliest history of the Manuel dynasty, however, we see one of the most prominent and autonomous (though never officially proclaimed) of all Iberian dukedoms, that of Villena, and this name would remain attached to the dynasty, as Villena, or Vilhena in Portuguese, for the rest of its history.

the arms of Manuel de Villena, used by both branches of the family, from an album of heraldry in the early 16th century

In 1252, the Infante Manuel, the 7th son of King Ferdinand III of Castile and Leon, was given the lordship of Villena as his apanage. It was a strategic territory, recently conquered by the King of Aragon from the Moors, but then taken from Aragon by the King of Castile. The lordship straddled the boundary between Castile and Aragon, and thus gave its lord both autonomy and also a useful position as a negotiator between the two often feuding Christian kingdoms. To secure his power in the region further, he was named Adelantado of the Kingdom of Murcia—the adelantados were powerful governors of newly conquered provinces, with nearly autonomous military and judiciary authority. Closer to the court of his brother King Alfonso X, Don Manuel was given the strategic castles of Peñafiel and Escalona, and served his brother as Alférez, or head of the household guard, then promoted to his Mayordomo mayor in 1279. He had his own household equal in stature to most princes—which seems appropriate for his very ‘imperial’ Greek name, ‘Emmanuel’, reflecting his maternal grandmother’s origins as a Byzantine princess (Irene Angelos, the daughter of Emperor Isaac II). He also married as a prince, first to a princess from Aragon (Constance) and then a princess from Savoy (Beatrice). His sons from both marriages took the name Manuel as a sort of surname, as would their descendants for the next 800 years. The eldest, Alfonso Manuel, died at 16, so the younger son, Juan Manuel, inherited the family properties, and assumed the title ‘Prince of Villena’. Though Villena was never formally more than a lordship, Juan was recognised as a prince in 1330 by the King of Aragon, and as a duke in 1336 by the King of Castile.

an image thought to represent Juan Manuel in the Cathedral of Murcia

The castle at Villena was incredibly strategic, at the intersection of Castile, Aragon and the Muslim states to the south. A much earlier wooden fortress was replaced with a stone tower sometime in the 1170s, and remained the stronghold of the Manuels until the 1360s, then was given by the Crown of Castile to various younger princes and royal favourites (and was erected as a marquisate in 1366, then finally a dukedom in 1418), until it was integrated fully into the royal domain by the end of the 15th century (the title ‘Marques de Villena’ was given out again, but not the castle). Despite losing its value as a border post by the 16th century, Villena remained a royal military stronghold until the days of the Peninsular War at the start of the 19th century.

The Castle of Villena

The other major fortress of the Manuels, Peñafiel, had been a strategic castle long before the era of the Infante Manuel, with foundations built by the earliest counts of Castile as they expanded their reach southwards from their capital of Burgos in the 940s. Its name means ‘loyal rock’, from the Latin pinna fidelis, and this great fortress on a rock grew and grew, until it was one of the most recognisable of Old Castile’s famous castles. Prince Juan Manuel called himself ‘Duke of Peñafiel’ by the 1290s, but, as with Villena, there’s no documentation for such a creation. It was, however, created a dukedom more formally later for the Infante Ferdinand of Antequera, who later became King Ferdinand I of Aragon.

the Castle of Peñafiel

A bit further south, the castle at Escalona was located on the road between Toledo and Avila, southwest of Madrid, also on the (at that time) strategic southern frontier of Castile. It had been a Roman fortress, then a Muslim stronghold, and was particularly strategic in the expanding frontier of the 12th century. The mighty castle we see today is the result of the expansion into a palace by the royal favourite Alvaro de Luna in the 1420s-30.

the Castle of Escalona

Juan Manuel, Prince of Villena, was born at Escalona. And although like his father he served at court, as Mayordomo mayor for his cousins Ferdinand IV and Alfonso XI, he is best remembered as a writer (and bears the nickname ‘el Scritor’). He wrote numerous books, mostly guides for how to live and govern as a prince, but also how to write poetry or how to use weapons properly. Also like his father, he served as a useful diplomat between Castile and Aragon, until he began a long a bloody feud against Alfonso XI in the 1330s. He died in 1348, leaving his lands and titles to his son Fernando Manuel, who died only two years later, succeeded by an infant daughter, Beatrice, who some sources consider to be the 3rd Duchess of Villena (or of Peñafiel). But she too died, in 1361, aged 13 or 14. All of the estates of the House of Manuel—Villena, Peñafiel and Escalona—were inherited by Fernando’s sister, Juana, who had married the Infante Enrique of Castile, soon to become King Enrique II. As noted above, Villena passed therefore to different hands, as did Peñafiel. Escalona was given to Juan Pacheco and created as a dukedom in 1472 (along with a marquisate of Villena). The House of Pacheco would remain one of the most powerful ducal families of Spain until the end of the 18th century.

This was not the end of the House of Manuel! Juan Manuel de Villena had an illegitimate half-brother, Sancho, who was created Lord of Carrión, in Castile near the city of Palencia. This lordship was raised to the rank of a county for his son Juan Sanchez Manuel in 1371. Both Sancho and Juan served their manueline cousins in the administration if their lands in Murcia and in their armies further south. Alfonso, 2nd Count of Carrión, died in about 1393, and his lands passed through his sister to the Padilla family. Meanwhile, another branch was forming across the border in Portugal. Juan Manuel had another illegitimate son, Enrique Manuel de Villena, who accompanied his half-sister, Constanza, to her marriage in 1340 to the Infante Pedro of Portugal. Enrique was only a child, and Constanza’s marriage did not last long (she died in 1349), but Enrique stayed in Portugal, and after Pedro became King of Portugal in 1357, he secured the young man’s loyalty with the title Count of Seia (in north-central Portugal), the lordship of Cascais and the office of alcaide (mayor) in Sintra, both much closer to the capital of Lisbon, plus many other castles in the Kingdom. The new Count of Seia was also married to a daughter of a prominent Portuguese noble house, Sousa (which we will encounter again below). But after King Pedro’s son King Ferdinando’s death in 1383, Henrique Manoel de Vilhena (adopting the Portuguese spelling) was one of the first to proclaim the late king’s daughter, Infanta Beatriz, as Queen of Portugal, meaning that her husband, King Juan I of Castile, could claim the Portuguese throne against João of Aviz. This support for Juan meant, however, that after this dynastic struggle which ended in the victory of the House of Aviz, Henrique was sent packing back to Castile, and his Portuguese lands were lost. Juan I compensated him, however, with the lordships of Montealegre, Belmonte and Meneses, located near the city of Palencia in western Castile. By the end of his life, Enrique was an advisor to the Infante Ferdinand of Castile in his regency (from 1406) and later as he established himself as king of Aragon (from 1412), and Mayordomo of his wife, Queen Leonor de Albuquerque (see her family, for another fascinating cross-Portuguese-Spanish ducal family).

a 17th-century visualisation of Henrique Manoel de Vilhena

Enrique Manuel de Villena started a new line through his two sons, Pedro and Enrique II, successively lords of Montealegre, Belmonte and Meneses. Pedro was the first to be buried in the Dominican convent of San Pablo in Peñafiel—retaining his family’s older link with that fortified town—where the ‘Capilla de los Manueles’ remained the family pantheon for generations. Enrique II’s son, Enrique III, was created Count of Montealegre by the King of Castile in 1406. The genealogies I’ve looked at become quite muddied at this point, and if Enrique I is still alive in 1412, then it doesn’t make sense (to me) for his grandson Enrique III to be created count in 1406—other sources show this as just one generation, not three. In any case, an important split occurred in the early years of the 15th century, and one branch remained in Castile as lords of Belmonte (Belmonte de Campos) and another moved further west as lords of Cheles, on the frontier near Badajoz, and then hopped across the border back to Portugal. We will look at the Castilian lines first.

But first, there is another side line descended from the first House of Manuel to explore. In truth, they may not be related at all—another one of history’s grand genealogical fictions. João Manoel, Bishop of Ceuta and Primate of Africa (from 1443) then Bishop of Guarda, in eastern Portugal (from 1459), was for many years considered by royal historians and noble genealogists to be the son of King Duarte of Portugal (d. 1438) and his mistress, Joana Manoel de Vilhena (a grand-daughter of the Count of Seia), an idea that has now been fairly conclusively dismissed. Manoel in this case may simply have been the Bishop’s second name which became a patronymic for his illegitimate offspring. Nonetheless, these descendants formed another House of Manuel in Portugal—and tellingly, they assumed the very same coat of arms.

the use of the Manuel (here Emanuel, in Latin) arms by this probably unrelated line

At first they were lords of Salvaterra de Magos in the fertile central belt of the river Tejo (or Tagus), northeast of Lisbon, then by the 16th century they were also lords of Tancos, further upriver, and nearby Atalaia. Two marriages to heiresses in that century merged them with the powerful family of Ataide, and in 1583, they were created Count of Atalaia by King Philip II of Spain—since 1580, the new King Philip I of Portugal. The family did well under Habsburg rule in Portugal: the first count, Francisco Manuel de Ataide, was succeeded in 1624 by his brother Pedro, previously a soldier in India in the 1590s and Viceroy of the Algarve in 1621. Their other brother, João, was Bishop of Viseu from 1609, then of Coimbra in 1625, before rising to the top of the ecclesiastical hierarchy as Archbishop of Lisbon in 1632. He was even named Viceroy of Portugal by Philip IV of Spain (Philip III of Portugal) in March 1633, but died only a few months later.

Jumping ahead, the 5th and 6th counts of Atalaia, brothers Pedro and João Manoel de Ataide, were both successful Portuguese commanders in the War of Spanish Succession, supporting the cause of Archduke Charles of Austria against the forces of the Bourbons. Pedro continued to support Charles after the war, now Emperor Charles VI, as Viceroy of Sardinia, 1713-17, and general of cavalry in Austrian-ruled Naples. João became Governor of Portuguese Angola (also 1713-17), then returned to Lisbon to become governor of the Tower of Belem guarding the river Tejo at the gateway to the capital. He succeeded his brother as 6th Count of Atalaia and later in life joined the royal Council of State and served as Master of the Household for Queen Mariana Vitoria in the 1750s. He was promoted in 1751 to the rank of Marquês of Tancos, and died in 1761, the last male of this line. His daughter, Constança became 2nd Marquesa of Tancos, and as a widow was appointed Camareira-mor (First Lady in Waiting) to Queen Maria I, who honoured her with the lifetime title, Duchess of Tancos, in 1790. She died a year later and passed her other titles (the county of Atalaia and the marquisate of Tancos) to her daughter and her heirs in the House of Meneses, though they took the name and arms of Manuel. They lived in the Palácio de Tancos in Lisbon, a lovely pink building high up on the hillside of the Castle of São Jorge.

the Palacio de Tancos in Lisbon

Of the branch of the Manuels that remained in Castile, the lords of Belmonte, Juan III rose to greater heights as one of the chief fiscal officers of Castile (the Contador mayor) and as ambassador to Henry VII of England and later to Pope Leo X. In the 1520s Belmonte was a councillor of state for King Carlos I (Emperor Charles V), and restored his family chapel in Peñafiel, where he is buried.

the tomb of Juan Manuel, Contador Mayor of Castile

His son Lorenzo Manuel was Mayordomo mayor to Charles V, but was the last of his line, passing the estates of Belmonte and others near Palencia to his sister Aldoza. His cousin in a junior line, another Juan Manuel, Lord of Cheles, also served as a mayordomo in the household of the Emperor-King. This Juan had two sons: the elder, Francisco I, continued to guard the frontier of Extremadura from his castle at Cheles and was progenitor of the line of counts of Via Manuel; while the younger, Cristobal, became lord of Carapinha across the border in Portugal, and founder of the line of counts of Vila Flor. From the first came the Spanish dukes of Arévalo, and from the second the Portuguese dukes of Terceira.

Cristóbal Manuel de Villena, 1st Count of Via-Manuel (or Villamanuel in the early days), was general of artillery in the wars against Portugal in the mid-17th century and governor of Badajoz near the border. His nearby castle at Cheles guarded the Guadiana river as it crossed this frontier, so he was ideally placed for this post, and alongside his countship, created by Carlos II in 1689, he was created Viscount of the Villa de Cheles. This castle is today called the Palacio Señorial of the Counts of Via Manuel.

the castle of Cheles, near Badajoz

A series of counts named José followed in the 18th century, the last of which made an advantageous marriage in 1790 to Maria del Pilar Melo de Portugal, from one of the most prominent noble houses in Portugal, though by this point they were also large landowners in Spain. She was, for instance, the 10th Marquesa de Rafal, based in the Kingdom of Valencia near Alicante, and 7th Countess of Granja de Rocamora, located in the same area (the Rocamora family had been one of the leading noble houses of this region in the Middle Ages). Her son Cristóbal, 6th Count of Via Manuel, was killed by Carlists in 1834, leaving a grandson, José Casimiro, to inherit both lineages’ titles and estates, as 7th Count of Via Manuel and 11th Marques of Rafal. He too was murdered, in 1854, leaving a very young son, Enrique, who died in 1874, aged only 21.

This branch of the Manuel family thus came to an end in the male line, but, as with so many Iberian dynasties, the name was simply transferred through the female line along with the estates. Doña Maria Isabel Manuel de Villena married Arturo de Pardo, a deputy to the Cortes and later senator of the realm, and a Gentleman of the Chamber of King Alfonso XIII. At the time of their marriage in 1867, she was created 1st Marquesa de Puebla de Rocamora, and she planned to separate the two estates (Via Manuel and Rafal) once more for her sons, Arturo and Alfonso. But she lived to the ripe old age of 80 and outlived the elder son (below). Several of her daughters inherited her longevity genes: Maria de Milagro lived until 101, while Josefa lived until 106! Second son Alfonso did inherit the marquisate of Rafal, which his descendants continue to hold today.

Maria Isabel Manuel de Villena, Countess of Via Manuel

Some of the lovely estates of the Rocamora branch of the family in Valencia include the palace of the marqueses of Rafal and the palace of the counts of Granja, both in the small city of Orihuela in the Province of Alicante.

Orihuela, Palacio del Marqués de Rafal
Orihuela, Palacio del Conde de la Granja

The elder son of Doña Maria Isabel, Arturo de Pardo y Manuel de Villena (1870-1907), was given his mother’s barony of El Monte Villena in advance of his succession while she lived, but obtained a much higher title due to his close friendship with the young king, Alfonso XIII; they shared a passion for horses, and Arturo became Master of the Royal Maestranza de Caballeria (a noble equestrian club) of Zaragoza. His mother pushed for years to have him recognised as the head of the ancient House of Manuel in Spain by means of the revival of an ancient dukedom from the 15th century, Arévalo, based on a castle and estates north of Avila, which she claimed had belonged to the medieval manueline lords. This had been continually blocked by the House of Zuñiga, whose ancestors had genuinely held the old dukedom of that name, but the King was persuaded to grant it anyway, in 1903, with the addition of ‘del Rey’ to make it distinct.

Arturo de Pardo y Manuel de Villena, 1st Duke of Arevalo del Rey

The first Duke of Arévalo del Rey died before his mother, so his son, Carlos Pardo-Manuel de Villena, inherited his grandmother’s title as 10th Count of Via Manuel, as well as his father’s title as 2nd Duke of Arévalo. He was a Gentleman Grandee of the Chamber of Alfonso XIII and supported him in exile after his deposition in 1931. His eldest son took the title 11th Count of Via Manuel in 1945, but not the ducal title, which went to his younger brother, Arturo. When he died childless in 2005, the ducal title passed to their sister, Maria Consuelo, who ceded it a year later to her son Juan Pablo de Lojendio y Pardo-Manuel de Villena (b. 1950), who is thus today the 5th Duke of Arévalo del Rey. The surname Lojendio comes from his father, a respected diplomat representing Spain in Switzerland, Italy and later the Vatican, but most famously in Cuba where his daring to argue on television with the new dictator Fidel Castro in 1960 caused an international incident—he was given 24 hours to leave the country.

Juan Pablo de Lojendio and his encounter with Fidel Castro

Finally, the line of Counts of Vila Flor, which leads us back to Portugal and back to Terceira. Sancho Manoel de Vilhena was a prominent military commander in the struggle against the Dutch in Brazil, 1638-40, then a general in the War of Restoration in Portugal though which the Braganza dynasty re-established Portuguese independence from Habsburg Spain. In gratitude, the Queen Regent, Luísa de Guzmão, named him 1st Count of Vila Flor, a village on the eastern edge of Portugal, in 1659. He married the heiress Ana de Noronha, daughter of Gaspar de Faria Severim, a Secretary of State, thus adding these surnames to his inheritance, as we will see again below. The 1st Count was also Alcaide-Mor (military governor) of Alegrete, an important defensive town close to Vila Flor, as well as a councillor of state, governor of the Tower of Belem, and so on. In 1677, he was named Viceroy of Brazil, but died before he took office.

Sancho Manoel de Vilhena, 1st Count of Vila Flor

Sancho’s eldest son Cristovão succeeded him as 2nd Count of Vila Flor and Alcaide of Alegrete, while his younger son Antonio became much more famous as a naval commander in the Order of Malta (aka St. John of Jerusalem). In 1722, he was elected Grand Master of the Order, and he really left his mark on the small island of Malta in his 14 years of rule. For himself he built the Palazzo Vilhena in the old capital of Mdina in 1726 (today’s National Museum of Natural History), while for the Order he built a new fort to defend the port of Valetta (Fort Manoel), and new settlement nearby called Borgo Vilhena, now called Floriana (after his family’s title, Vila Flor). Still today the Manoel coat of arms can be seen all over Malta.

Antonio Manoel de Vilhena, Grand Master of the Order of Malta
Palazzo Vilhena in Malta
Manoel Fort in Valetta

The 2nd Count of Vila Flor died without a legitimate male heir in 1704, so the title, and the name Manoel de Vilhena, passed to his sister’s son, Martim de Sousa Meneses. Along more orthodox lines of genealogical reckoning, this means that the House of Manoel died out in this branch, and the title passed to the House of Sousa. But this being the Iberian peninsula, anything goes, and the 3rd Count simply added the name Manoel to his other patronymics. Sousa is one of the very oldest, and most widely spread, noble names in Portugal, and as direct descendants in the male line (though illegitimate) from King Alfonso III (d. 1279), are considered by genealogy nerds to be one of the most junior branches of the House of Capet—the family that includes the Bourbons, the Valois, and the first royal house of Portugal, the Casa de Borgonha (Burgundy). The House of Sousa is fascinating in its own right, and will have a blog post of its own, focusing on the Duke of Palmela (another 19th-century Portuguese dukedom). A different branch of the Sousa family, hereditary grand butlers (copeiro mor) of Portugal in the 16th century, ultimately produced Martim de Sousa Meneses, and his son, Luis Manuel de Sousa e Meneses, 4th Count of Vila Flor. Martim also had a daughter, Mariana, who, like the Duchess of Tancos above was also Camareira-Mor of Queen Maria I, and was created 1st Marquesa de Vila Flor in the 1770s.

The coat of arms used by the later counts of Vila Flor, including both the Manoel de Vilhena arms and those of this branch of the House of Sousa (the quinas of Portugal and the lion of Leon). Overall is a golden annulet representing kinship with the royal house

The 5th and 6th counts of Vila Flor were both involved in colonial government of Brazil, the first as governor of Pernambuco, the second as governor of Maranhão. The 6th Count, Antonio de Sousa Manoel de Meneses Severim de Noronha, died in 1795, leaving his three-year-old son, Antonio José as 7th Count of Vila Flor. This returns us to the Duke of Terceira.

Born in 1792, young Antonio learned his craft as a young officer in the Portuguese armies in the Napoleonic Wars of the early 19th century, rising to the rank of colonel by 1815. Two years later he sailed to Brazil to join the royal Braganza court in exile there. He helped put down a rebellion in Pernambuco and was named governor of the province of Grão Pará (the Amazon basin). In 1821, King João VI decided finally to return to Portugal, and the Count of Vila Flor accompanied him, as one of his Gentlemen of the Chamber. Portugal was in the midst of a long struggle between the forces of constitutional liberalism and royal absolutism, the latter led by the King’s younger son, Dom Miguel. At first, Vila Flor supported this absolutist party and served as field marshal and aide-de-camp to Miguel. As further evidence of this early stance, wee see that he was sent to Spain in 1823 to greet the Duke of Angoulême, the nephew of the King of France who had been sent to Iberia with an army to restore absolute rule in both Spain and Portugal. But by 1824, Vila Flor was shifting in his political mind-set towards liberalism, especially after the murder of his father-in-law by the Miguelists. When the King died in 1826, his son Pedro IV—who had proclaimed himself emperor of an independent Brazil in 1822—issued a formal constitution, then abdicated in favour of his seven-year-old daughter, Maria. Civil war followed, now with Vila Flor supporting the regency of the young queen against the forces of her uncle Miguel. He was rewarded with the title Marquis of Vila Flor in 1827.

the Duke of Terceira as a hghly decorated officer

Dom Miguel took power in Portugal in 1828, forcing Vila Flor to join liberal exiles gathering in London (where the Queen lived). He soon joined two other leaders of this movement on the Island of Terceira in the Azores where they formed a regency government of their own, recognised by Queen Maria and her father Emperor Pedro, acting as regent from Brazil. Vila Flor was named Captain-General of the Azores, and gradually extended the government of the regency over the entire archipelago, fighting off a Miguelist fleet in the Battle of Praia in August 1829.

The Battle of Praia, on the Island of Terceira

Their headquarters was in the ancient port town of Angra, on Terceira—since the mid-15th century one of the key stopping points for Portuguese ships crossing the Atlantic on the return voyage from Brazil, laden with colonial bounty (and thus this port was heavily fortified). In March 1832, Dom Pedro arrived in Angra to take up the regency for his daughter himself, and from there, he and Vila Flor launched the invasion of the Portuguese mainland that summer, starting in Porto. Pedro took formal command of the army in November, and as a thank-you created the dukedom of Terceira for Vila Flor. The new Duke was sent to take over the Algarve, then in July 1833 took the city of Lisbon from the Miguelists. He defeated the remaining rebel army at Asseiceirain May 1834, and the civil war (the ‘war of the two brothers’, Pedro and Miguel) ended.

a political cartoon in France showing the ‘Brothers War’ between Pedro, supported by liberal Louis-Philippe, King of the French, and Miguel, supported by the absolutist Nicholas I, Tsar of Russia

In September 1834, Queen Maria II formally took over the government for herself, and appointed the Duke of Terceira as her Minister of War. In the next decade he became leader of the more moderate wing of the Liberal party, and in April 1836, was asked to form a government when the more leftist group fell from power. This would be his first stint as President of the Council of Ministers (aka Prime Minister), but his government was seen as too heavy handed, and after an uprising in September, was dismissed, replaced once more by the more left-wing liberals. In the summer of 1837, Terceira joined an uprising against these liberals with some of his former military companions, the ‘Revolt of the Marshals’, and they formed a provisional regency government of their own, aiming to restore the original constitution of 1826. This failed and they were exiled—but he was almost immediately recalled when war threatened with Spain over border disputes. In 1842, the old constitution was restored, and Terceira was once again asked by the Queen to be Prime Minister (and again, Minister of War), which he did, for four years, one of the few periods of stability in this monarch’s troubled reign. After his resignation in 1846, he worked as a now senior politician in the Chamber of Peers (the upper house of Parliament), until he was asked to form yet another government after a short civil war in 1851. This was evidently a transitional government and indeed lasted only 6 days.

the older Duke of Terceira in 1850

By the mid-1850s, the Duke of Terceira had left active military service, but continued to be a strong presence in Parliament, still as a liberal, but now more as a patriarch of the Kingdom, one of the few unifying figures who could stand above politics. Maria II died in 1853, and Terceira acted as a father-figure to her son, the teen-aged King Pedro V. As a trusted senior statesman, he was sent to Germany to receive the King’s bride, Stephanie of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, in 1858. And in March 1859 he was once again called on to form a government (and appointed Minister of War and Foreign Affairs)—he died in office a year later.

The Duke of Terceira lived at the (Old) Palace of Vila Flor, in Alfama, the fashionable district of Lisbon on the far side of the old Castle of São Jorge, along the banks of the River Tagus, also called the Palace of São João da Praça (today a hotel); or at the Palace of Arroios in the district of that name in Lisbon, northeast of the old city centre. Also known as the Palace of the Lords of Pancos, the residence in Arroios was sold by the family in the early 20th century, and was demolished in the 1950s. The Duke also had a house a bit further out on this side of the city, the Palace of the Copeiros-Mores—the hereditary title (Grand Butler) of his de Sousa forebears—which was also called the Palace of Braço de Prata. Started in the 1590s, it was mostly constructed in the later 17th century, then was occupied in the 18th century by cousins, before it was reclaimed for the Duke of Terceira himself, then sold by his heirs in 1862 to the Portuguese railway company.

The Palace of Braço de Prata in Lisbon, in the 1940s

The heirs of the Duke of Terceira are a bit hard to trace at first, and since the fall of the Portuguese monarchy in 1910, there’s no legal body that confirms who does or does hold what title. In 1860, the heir to the titles and lands was considered to be a distant cousin Cristovão Manoel de Vilhena Saldanha, Senhor de Zibreira, who had been an Aide-de-Camp of King Miguel in the Liberal Wars of the 1820s-30s. Through his mother, Cristovão was the descendant of the 2nd Count of Vila Flor, from whom his line inherited the lordship of Zibreira, in the central river valley of the Tagus. Her mother in turn had been a daughter of the famousMarquis de Pombal, First Minister of Portugal in the 18th century. Cristovão’s father, however, was José Sebastião de Saldanha, 1st Conde de Alpedrinha, brother of Duke of Saldanha, one of the main political collaborators of the Duke of Terceira. Thus despite these grand connections on both sides, this family did not claim the title Duke of Terceira or Count of Vila Flor, but the claims did nevertheless pass through a daughter, Maria Benedita, to her son Tomás de Almeida Manuel de Vilhena who was given licence to use the title Count of Vila Flor by King Manuel II, who reigned briefly from 1908 to 1910. Vila Flor would later serve informally as head of Manuel’s government in exile, basing his operations from the (new) Palace of Vila Flor on the slopes of the Castle of São Jorge in Lisbon (while the monarch himself established his ‘court’ in Twickenham, west London).

Tomás de Almeida Manuel de Vilhena, Count of Vila Flor, as a young man

This new Palace of Vila Flor, purchased in 1907, had initially been known as the Palácio da Costa do Castelo (the palace on the hillside of the Castle), built in the 17th century by courtiers of the royal household, the Cirne family. Located on a narrow street just around the corner from the Palace of Tancos (above), it passed through various ownership before it was bought by Vila Flor. The Count met with significant political and literary figures in this residence—he was himself a journalist and writer, as well as a politician, serving as governor of the districts of Braga and Madeira, and later as a senator in the 1920s—as did his son and grand-daughter, maintaining a sort of intellectual salon here well into the 1980s.

the Palace of Vila Flor, near the Castile of São Jorge in Lisbon

The Count’s paternal surname, Almeida, came from another old noble family, whose head was the Marquis of Livradio (created 1753). Tomás de Almeida added the name of his mother’s family, Manuel de Vilhena, and assumed the role of head of this clan in Portugal. Like many aristocrats in the 20th century, he was passionately interested in genealogy and heraldry, and became first president of the Portuguese Institute of Heraldry before he died in 1932.

His son, the 9th Count of Vila Flor, Francisco Maria de Almeida, was a professor of agronomics (the economics of agriculture), as well as a fencing champion. When he died in 1987, his titles and claims to headship of the House of Manuel de Vilhena passed to his daughter Luísa. She revived some of the other family titles, notably that of Count of Alpedrinha (created 1854, for the brother of the Duke of Saldanha, above) and Lord of Pancas, a much older title from a family that owned many properties all over the eastern edges of Lisbon, notably in the district of Marvila. Dona Luísa also revived use of the title Duke of Terceira. When she died in 1998, these titles and the various dynastic names (and those of her husband, Jaime Dias de Freitas, Count of Azarujinha, created 1890, and an extraordinary neo-gothic country residence near Évora), passed to her son Francisco Xavier Dias de Freitas, 5th Count of Azarujinha and 3rd Duke of Terceira, who died in 2007.

the castle of Azarujinha

The current 4th Duke of Terceira is his son, Lourenço Manoel de Vilhena de Freitas (b. 1973), who is a professor of law at the University of Lisbon. He has worked as an advisor for the Portuguese government, and as a prominent member of the Portuguese Council of Nobility, also bears the titles from the various other families he represents: 12th Count of Vila Flor (Manoel de Vilhena), 4th Count of Alpedrinha (Saldanha), and 6th Count of Azarujinha (Dias de Freitas); while his young son and heir goes by the courtesy title ‘Master of Pancas’.

The Duke of Terceira name lives on today on the island of that name in the Azores in the lush botanical gardens located in the heart of the ancient port city of Angra de Heroísmo—the ‘Heroic’ tag added by Queen Maria II to honour the city from which her reign was launched back in 1832. At the top of the hill above the gardens is a monument commemorating the Queen’s father, Pedro IV, who championed the cause of constitutional liberalism in Portugal.

here’s me in the Jardim Duque da Terceira, the botanical gardens in Angra do Heroísmo

Anatomy of a British Queen: Scotland, the Netherlands, and beyond

September 2023 marks the one-year anniversary of the reign of Charles III in the United Kingdom, and in the list of British queen consorts, adds the name of Camilla Shand. In the history of royal consorts, in Britain or elsewhere in Europe, or indeed at the top of the European aristocracy—the dukes and princes—a family name like Shand would not normally have appeared, or would have been seen as a mésalliance, and in many cases would have cost a prince and his heirs their position in the succession. These strict house rules that regulated succession have never been as forceful in Britain as they were in most continental royal and princely houses—otherwise Henry VIII could have never married who he did!—and even those regulations were relaxed significantly following the Second World War. But a closer look at the ancestry of Queen Camilla reveals that she is in fact related to some of the grandest names of the aristocracy, in Scotland in particular, but also in England and the Netherlands. Even more interesting is the great cross-section of elites who appear the further back you go in her lineage, from London bankers and architects, to minor Breton landowners, to colonial families in New England and Canada.

Queen Camilla when still Duchess of Cornwall in 2011

This post looks at the pedigree chart of Camilla Shand, that is, a chart that lays out parents, grandparents, great-grandparents, etc, and looks in particular at its relationship to dukes and princes. Almost immediately, we see that it is not her father’s, but her mother’s parents, the Cubitts and the Keppels, who were had the grander aristocratic lineage. Beyond this, the Queen’s great-grandmother’s family, the Edmonstones, also connect her to the Elphinstones, who are Charles III’s cousins through his own grandmother, Elizabeth Bowes-Lyons. Yet it is not that surprising, given the close-knit intermarriages of the British aristocracy (and particularly those from Scotland, like Edmonstone and Elphinstone), that Charles and Camilla are cousins.

But what is more intriguing, from the viewpoint of the historical genealogist, is the large number of other fascinating family histories that emerge: this blog post will highlight only some of these, like the Keppels from the Netherlands, or the founding families of Quebec. And credit must be given where it is due: much of this information comes from the incredibly researched and detailed website of royal genealogist William Addams Reitwiesner: http://www.wargs.com/royal/camilla.html. So I hope he doesn’t mind me using it!

Of course, one of the clearest royal links for Camilla Shand, previously Mrs Parker-Bowles, and until recently the Duchess of Cornwall, comes from the well-known story of her maternal great-grandmother, Alice Edmonstone, the wife of the Honourable George Keppel, being the mistress of Charles III’s great-great-grandfather, King Edward VII. There are suggestions that Alice’s daughter, Sonia Keppel (b. 1900), was in fact the King’s daughter, making Charles and Camilla even more closely related. Sonia also had a famous sister, Violet Trefusis, whose life is an extraordinary tale of adventure and romance, particularly her troubled affair with Vita Sackville-West. But she is not a direct ancestor of Camilla, so let’s move on.

Alice Edmonstone, Mrs George Keppel

The Shand family are from Scotland, tracing roots back to Banffshire in the early 18th century, when James Shand was Provost of the City of Banff. His son was the first feudal laird of Craigellie, south of Fraserburgh way out on the northeast edge of Aberdeenshire. And through the family’s marriages in the 18th century, Camilla’s pedigree chart connects her to most of the landed families of this region of Scotland, including the Leslies, Ogilvies, Bairds, Forbes, as well as the Lyons, Lords of Glamis (yes, the same family as the late Queen Mother), and further back to grander aristocratic families that dominated Scotland in the 16th and 17th centuries: Hay, earls of Kinnoull; Douglas, earls of Morton; and Keith, earls Marischal. One of the more prominent Shands in more recent times was Alexander Faulkner Shand (1858-1936), Camilla’s great-grandfather, a barrister and one of the founders of the modern field of psychology.

Alexander Shand

Through Alexander Shand’s wife, Augusta Coates, we connect to an interesting family from Liverpool, the Hopes, bankers, merchants, and members of Parliament. William Hope (d. 1827) gave his name to Hope Street, in the heart of Liverpool, and his house was located where the Philharmonic Hall was built in the 1840s. The street later gave its name to the university based in this neighbourhood, Liverpool-Hope.

Hope Street, Liverpool

Another family with an interesting urban legacy shifts us to Camilla’s mother, the Honourable Rosemary Cubitt. Thomas Cubitt (1788-1855) was the son of a Norfolk carpenter, who became a builder, and left behind an extraordinary number of houses in London, all over Mayfair, Bloomsbury, Islington, and so on, and even building the new face of Buckingham Palace in 1847. He later built Osborne House on the Isle of Wight for Queen Victoria and her family. For himself he purchased a house at Denbies in Dorking, Surrey, which he rebuilt in a much more grand style—unfortunately demolished in the 1950s.

Thomas Cubitt, extraordinary builder
Denbies, the Cubitt residence in Dorking, Surrey

Cubitt’s son entered politics and became 1st Baron Ashcombe, of Dorking, in 1892. Other ancestors on this branch of Queen Camilla’s pedigree chart include landowners in Surrey, brew-masters in Berkshire (Brakspear’s), and a London distiller, who rose to be a banker, an MP and a Lord Mayor of London: Sir Robert Ladbroke (d. 1773). His family gave their name to extensive properties in Kensington, notably Ladbroke Grove (but not to the betting firm, which is named for a country house in Warwickshire).

a family brewery
Sir Robert Ladbroke

Other people found on this branch of the family centred on the southeast of England include two 18th-century admirals, Sir William Rowley, commander of the Mediterranean Fleet in the War of Austrian Succession (1740s), and Sir Robert Harland, First Naval Lord from 1782; and George Peters, a governor of the Bank of England and member of the Russia Company of merchants. A final interesting twig on this branch are the members of an émigré French Huguenot family who arrived in London fleeing persecution in the 1720s: Adrien Coltée Ducarel was a Director of the South Sea Company (happily after its famous burst bubble). His father’s family were merchants in Normandy, owners of the fief of Le Carel, while his mother’s family, initially spelled in these records as Crommelin, lords of Muids (Normandy), but further back revealed as Crommelinck, a Flemish family of linen merchants from Kortrijk.

Admiral Rowley

This link to the Low Countries draws us to the Keppels, the paternal family of Sonia, the Hon. Mrs Cubitt (they divorced before he became 3rd Baron Ashcombe), maternal grandmother of Queen Camilla.

Hon. Sonia Keppel, Mrs Cubitt

The Keppels were an ancient but minor noble family from Gelderland, one of the eastern provinces of the Dutch Republic. In the 1690s, Arnold Joost van Keppel established himself and his family in the peerage of England as the Earl of Albemarle. The Keppels of Albemarle did not obtain a dukedom, to make them more relevant to this website—unlike the predecessor with the name ‘Albemarle’ (General Monck) or the other Dutch family that came over to England in the reign of William III, Bentinck (earls, later dukes of Portland)—but by the end of the 18th century they were related by marriage to most of the ducal families of England and Scotland. Their roots stretch back to the lordship of Woolbeek in the mid-14th century, located near the IJssel river, not too far east of Appeldoorn, where William III would later build his beautiful country house, Het Loo. In the mid-16th century Derck van Keppel married Aleist van de Voorst, the heiress of the nearby lordship of Voorst, closer to the town of Zutphen. De Voorst Castle was rebuilt by Arnold Joost in the 1690s; he also acquired the nearby castle of ‘t Velde (from the Bentincks), and rebuilt it as well. Both Voorst and Velde were sold by the family in the mid-18th century.

Van Keppel coat of arms
Keppel’s house at De Voorst
Huis ‘t Velde

Arnold Joost van Keppel was initially a page in the service of William III, Prince of Orange and Stadtholder of Holland. He accompanied his master in the invasion of England in the Glorious Revolution of 1688, and by 1692 was clearly the royal favourite, displacing the much older Hans Willem Bentinck, Earl of Portland. He was named Groom of the Bedchamber and Master of the Robes, very intimate positions in the Royal Household, which fuelled rumours and satirical poems about the relationship between the King and his friend. We can never know for certain exactly what went on behind closed doors in Kensington Palace, but it would be interesting to consider the familial link between the favourites of William III and Edward VII… Keppel was raised to the peerage in 1696 as Viscount Bury, in Lancashire (which seems pretty random to me, but hey, that’s the history of English peerages for you!), and Baron Ashford in Kent, and then as Earl of Albemarle, 1697. As explained in a previous blogpost, Albemarle refers to nowhere in particular in England, but ultimately derives from Aumale in Normandy, and does make a nice allusion to the ancient name for Britain, Alba, from its white cliffs. The 1st Earl served William ably in his preparations for war against France in the War of Spanish Succession, but after the King’s death in 1702, Albemarle took up a post instead as a general of the Dutch cavalry, which served under the Duke of Marlborough, Commander of the Allied Armies.

Arnold Joost van Keppel, 1st Earl of Albemarle

Albemarle’s wife provides Queen Camilla’s pedigree chart with the lineages of many more noble Dutch families: van der Duyn, lords of Gravenmoer in North Brabant; Suys, lords of Rijswijk in South Holland (the location of the signing of the famous Treaty of Ryswick, the same year as the creation of Van Keppel’s earldom); and Bouckhorst, lords of Wimmenum in North Holland, a family of prominent magistrates and diplomats in the 17th century, the Dutch ‘Golden Age’.

really cool black lion in the Bouckhorst arms

William Keppel, 2nd Earl of Albemarle, re-established the family’s links with Britain. As another intimate of royalty like his father, he was Gentleman of the Bedchamber to George II and ultimately Groom of the Stole. He was also a soldier, commanding British troops in Flanders in the 1740s before being pulled to Scotland to command at Culloden in 1746, after which he was named Commander-in-Chief of British forces in Scotland. A diplomat in the Netherlands and France, he was also appointed Royal Governor of the Colony of Virginia in 1737, and has a county named for him, Albemarle County, in the Piedmont, home to Monticello and the University of Virginia in Charlottesville.

William Keppel, 2nd Earl of Albemarle

In terms of Queen Camilla’s ancestry, the 2nd Earl of Albemarle adds the closest direct link to royalty, through his marriage in 1722 to Lady Anne Lennox, daughter of the Duke of Richmond, and thus grand-daughter of King Charles II and his mistress Louise de Kérouaille, Duchess of Portsmouth. Ancestors added to the chart therefore include Stuarts, Bourbons, Habsburgs, etc, but also minor nobles from Brittany, the Penancoët de Kérouaille family and allied families the Barons of Ploeuc (which interestingly also has a connection to Colonial America, as an estate ultimately passing to the Marquis de Lafayette) and the Lords of Rieux de Sourdéac. René de Rieux, Seigneur de Sourdéac (1548-1628), from one of the most prominent noble families in south Brittany, famously held the fortress of the city of Brest for Henry IV of France in his wars against the Catholic League of the 1590s.

one of Brittany’s finest

Back in England, Lady Anne’s mother’s family were the Brudenells, from the East Midlands, earls of Cardigan from 1661. They were connected by marriage to the northern families of Savage (of Cheshire) and Savile (of Yorkshire), as well as one of the best-connected of any Jacobean court family, the Villiers.

The 3rd and 4th earls of Albemarle, as descendants of the Stuarts and of the most prominent Stuart-era courtiers, thus easily maintained their place in the Georgian hierarchy. The 3rd Earl achieved a great victory in 1762 in the capture of Havana in Cuba, one of the most important cities in Spain’s overseas empire; while the 4th Earl was a politician, holding posts in the Whig governments of the early 19th century. The ancestors they add to Queen Camilla’s pedigree are mostly English county gentry: the Millers of Sussex, the Oglanders of the Isle of Wight, the Southwells of Gloucestershire, the Derrings of Kent, and so on. But further back, these too connect to grand Stuart and Tudor court families: the Watsons, earls of Rockingham, the Wentworths, earls of Strafford, the Tuftons, earls of Thanet, the Sondes, earls of Feversham, the Cecils, earls of Exeter, the Sackvilles, earls of Dorset, and the Pierreponts, earls of Kingston. It is a pretty complete who’s who. One connection here leads to the Barons Cromwell, the descendants of Thomas Cromwell, chief minister of Henry VIII, and another leads to William Cavendish, 1st Duke of Newcastle, one of the most important supporters of the Royalists in the English Civil War, and builder of the marvellous Bolsover Castle in Derbyshire. Of course, through him, we can add the well-loved figure of English history, his grandmother, Bess of Hardwick.

Bess of Hardwick, Countess of Shrewsbury

The Albemarle family seat was at Quidenham Hall in the Norfolk countryside near Thetford. It was a massive Jacobean mansion, bought by the Keppels in 1800, and retained by them until sold to some Carmelite nuns in 1948. The Keppels remained active in the Norfolk political and social scene in the 20th century, but also in Cheshire, where they inherited much of the Egerton properties—whose estates included Tatton Park, though that went by the will of the last Egerton to the National Trust. They also inherited a tiny share in the hereditary rights to the office of Lord Great Chamberlain, though their Carington cousins.

Quidenham Hall, Norfolk, today

Through the marriage of the 6th Earl of Albemarle (d. 1891) we start to get closer to returning to the Scottish aristocracy with which we began. Susan Trotter’s family were from the borders, Berwickshire, but her mother’s family were the Gordons, descended from both branches, the earls of Aberdeen and the dukes of Gordon. Related families here are the Duffs, the Dalrymples, the Lockharts and the Frasers, mostly from Scotland’s northeast corner (like the Shands), but also connecting more widely to the southwest and the Hamilton lords of Bargeny (in Ayrshire), the Douglases of Clydesdale (in Lanarkshire), and the Cunningham earls of Glencairn (in Dumfries).

It is with the wife of the 7th Earl of Albemarle, Queen Camilla’s great-great-grandfather, that things start to get really interesting again in terms of diversity and wider geographical spread. Sophia MacNab (1832-1917) was the daughter of Sir Allan MacNab, joint Premier of the Province of Canada, 1854-56—one of the last to hold that post before ‘United Canada’ (Ontario and Quebec) merged with the other provinces of British North America to form the Dominion of Canada in 1867. The MacNabs were initially from Glen Dochart in the Highlands in Perthshire, but they emigrated to North America in the 18th century. MacNab is remembered today also as the builder of the very grand Dundurn Castle in Hamilton, Ontario.

Allan MacNab, Canadian politician
Dundurn Castle, Hamilton, Ontario, the side facing the water

Allan MacNab’s mother’s family were Napiers, also a founding family of Canada, while his wife’s family, Stuarts and Joneses, were from New York and Massachusetts, Loyalists who moved north after the American Revolution. One of these, Ephraim Jones of Massachusetts (1750-1812), became a mill owner and an MP for the Ottawa River valley in the Parliament of Upper Canada (Ontario). Jones was descended from good stock 17th-century New Englanders: Treadway, Barnes, Goodenough, Allen. The lists include several Old Testament names—Abigails, Nathaniels—even a Suffrance (Haynes), so we know they were Puritans. Ephraim however married Marie Coursel (or Coursolles), who brings in some very different lineages. Her father was Michel Coursel from the Île de Ré on the Atlantic coast of France who emigrated to Québec and in 1739 married the Québecoise Marie-Josèphe Guyon, whose father lived in Verchères, across the Saint Lawrence river from Montréal. His ancestors had been amongst the first to come to Québec, for example, Louis Hébert, in 1617, less than ten years after the founding of the colony. Of all those listed as ancestors of Marie-Josèphe—Guillets, Trottiers, Cloutiers—most come, unsurprisingly, from the Atlantic coast—La Rochelle, Mortagne, Saintonge—and some from Brittany (Saint-Malo). The website cited at the top of this post helpfully includes many of their professions: carpenter, cabinet-maker, tailor. Some of them settled further downstream, at Cap-de-la-Madeleine (today part of Trois Rivières), or even closer to the mouth of the Saint Lawrence, at Château-Richer.

Quebec and the lower Saint Lawrence river, 1764

Lastly we return to Sonia Keppel’s mother’s family, the Edmonstones, and even more Scottish relations for Queen Camilla. Alice Edmonstone (Mrs Keppel) wasn’t married to the heir to the Albemarle earldom, but to George Keppel, the third son of the heir, Viscount Bury. Bury had been a long time Liberal politician, Treasurer of the Household for Queen Victoria, and also Superintendent of Indian Affairs in Canada, 1854-56—which was when he met and married his wife Sophia MacNab. Lord Bury finally became the 7th Earl of Albermarle in 1891, just before the marriage of George and Alice.

a caricature of Viscount Bury, the future 7th Earl of Albemarle

Alice was the daughter of Sir William Edmonstone, 4th Baronet, of Duntreath (1810-1888). He was an admiral and a Scottish MP, and maintained his residences in London and at Duntreath Castle in Stirlingshire. The castle, situated at the foot of the Campsie Fells north of the City of Glasgow, retained its 14th-century tower, and had newer 19th-century extensions built when the family returned to Scotland after having lived in County Antrim in Ireland for over a century. Here they built Redhall, near Carrickfergus (not far from Belfast), which they sold at the end of the 18th century.

Admiral Sir William Edmonstone, 4th Baronet
Duntreath Castle, Strahblane, with the Campsies behind
Redhall, County Antrim

The Edmonstones had been based in this region, anciently known as the Lennox, since they were granted Duntreath by King James I in 1425, when the King’s sister, Princess Mary Stewart, married (for her fourth husband) Sir William Edmonstone. Sir William was a close associate of the young king and benefitted from royal favour. They were originally not from the west of Scotland, but from the Lothians, near Edinburgh, and they kept their original lands here, sometimes referred to as ‘Edmund’s Town’ (Edmundiston in medieval documents) until the 1620s. From having some royal blood from the Stewarts in the 15th century, they made new royal connections in 1999 when the daughter of the 7th Baronet married the son of the titular Grand Duke of Tuscany (Archduke Sigismund of Austria). Her brother got into legal trouble about five years ago for some shady financial dealings. Being a cousin to the future queen-consort, this was eagerly picked up by the media.

Queen Camilla’s descent from the Edmonstones thus connects her even more firmly with the Scottish aristocracy. The first Edmonstone baronet, Archibald (1717-1807), was a Scottish MP in the 1760s to 90s, a firm supporter of Lord North against the separatist yearnings in the American colonies, and was rewarded with a baronetcy in 1774.

A delightfully sour portrait of the 1st Edmonstone Baronet

His mother Anne Campbell was niece of the 1st Duke of Argyll, granddaughter of the 9th Earl of Argyll—which therefore brings in the aristocratic lineages of Campbells, Keiths and Douglases—but also the daughter of Elizabeth Elphinstone. The Elphinstones, like the Edmonstones, are a lowland clan, also originally based in the Lothians around Edinburgh from the 13th century, though it is thought their name may have derived from an earlier connection to Erth or Airth further west in Stirlingshire, on the banks of the River Forth, where their later seat, Elphinstone Tower would be located (‘Airth’s Tun’). Alternatively, it may be that their earliest lands were named as the possession of someone named Alpin (‘Alpin’s Tun’). The family began its rise to prominence in the later 13th century through marriage to a niece of Robert the Bruce. One of them became Bishop of Aberdeen and founder of the university there in 1494. Soon after, Elphinstone Tower in Stirlingshire (there’s also the ruins of one in East Lothian) was rebuilt by the 1st Lord Elphinstone in the early 16th century. The 1st Lord (Alexander) was a close associate of King James IV, and was killed at the Battle of Flodden alongside the King himself in 1513. The 2nd Lord Elphinstone was also killed fighting for Scotland, at Pinkie in 1547.

the ruins of Elphinstone Tower in Stirlingshire

The 4th Lord Elphinstone (another Alexander) became Lord High Treasurer of Scotland under James VI, and significantly augmented Elphinstone Tower in the early years of the 17th century. It remained the family seat until it was sold to the Earl of Dunmure (a Murray) in 1754—and then mostly demolished in the 1820s.

Alexander, 4th Lord Elphinstone

18th– and 19th-century Elphinstones included several prominent British admirals in the American Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars, a general who led a disastrous retreat from Kabul in 1842, directors of the East India Company, and a governor of Bombay and Madras. The 15th Lord was created Baron Elphinstone in the UK Peerage (as opposed to the Scottish Peerage) which meant he and his heirs could sit in the House of Lords without having to be selected as one of the representative Scottish peers. The 16th Lord Elphinstone, Sidney, married Lady Mary Bowes-Lyon, elder sister of the future Queen Elizabeth, in 1910, thus making his descendants cousins to the current royal family.

Sidney, 16th Lord Elphinstone, and Lady Mary Bowes-Lyon

Queen Camilla’s connection to the Elphinstones is much more distant, but reaching back into the 17th century and beyond, connects her pedigree chart to the Maitlands (earls, later dukes of Lauderdale), and lords Livingstone, Fleming, Drummond, Ruthven, Lindsay and so on. Much closer to the present, Alice Edmonstone’s grandmother, Mary Elizabeth Dewar, links her to the Dewars of Vogrie—another Lowland clan based in the Lothians whose fortunes were raised considerably in the 19th century through the distilling of the ‘water of life’. Through the Dewars, the pedigree chart connects to even more Scottish noble families: Halyburtons, Barclays and Kirkpatricks, and the Erskines, earls of Kellie.

Letterhead for Dewars

Looking over the vast expanse of this wonderful pedigree chart, there are even more lines to explore, like that of the Hotham barons from Scarborough in East Yorkshire, or the family of Sir John Barnard, Whig politician and Lord Mayor of London in 1738, whose fierce opposition to Walpole and corruption in government earned him a place amongst the ornate busts of ‘British Worthies’ displayed in Lord Cobham’s lavish country house and gardens at Stowe in Buckinghamshire. Other prominent 18th-century Londoners from the world of business and trade include Barnard’s cousin, John Goodschell of East Sheen, of the Turkey Company, merchant traders with the Ottoman Empire, and various members of the drapers’ guild, the scriveners’ company and the grocers’ guild.

the bust for Sir John Barnard at Stowe
the British Worthies at Stowe

In a remarkably parallel circumstance to the comments made about Elizabeth Bowes-Lyons being a mere commoner when she married the Duke of York in 1923, and especially once she became queen-consort in 1936, we can see that the former Camilla Shand is deeply connected to the noble houses of both England and Scotland, a wide swathe of the landed gentry on both sides of the border, admirals, generals and governors, as well as a fascinating array of businessmen and entrepreneurs in 18th-century London and early settlers of English and French colonies in the New World. And even a few dukes and princes!

Queen Camilla’s coat-of-arms as consort

Jacobite Dukes: the Drummonds of Perth and Melfort

Scotland has several families who obtained the highest rank in the peerage: a dukedom. Several of these families come from the borderlands between Highlands and Lowlands that runs from Argyll to Aberdeen. Perthshire is right in the middle of this, and the Drummond family have been a major power here for centuries. But their dukedom, of Perth itself, is entirely ephemeral, granted by the exiled King James VII (James II of England) in 1701, but never recognised by any subsequent Scottish monarchs. The only monarchs who recognised the dukes of Perth were the kings of France and the popes in Rome.

the head of Clan Drummond before he became Jacobite Duke of Perth

There are two major Scottish castles and estates associated with the name Drummond: Drummond Castle and Blair Drummond, both in Perthshire. But neither belong to the Drummond family today. After their support for the failed Jacobite uprising of 1745—an attempt to restore the Stuart Pretender (James VII’s son, ‘James VIII’)—they had no major seat. But since the 1950s they have been restored to Stobhall Castle, the earliest stronghold of the family. Located on the river Tay, a few miles north of the city of Perth and the ancient royal coronation site of Scone, Stobhall was associated with the Drummonds from about 1360. After they moved their centre of operations to Drummond Castle, Stobhall’s ancient keep was replaced with a dower house and a chapel in the 1570s—notably a Catholic chapel since this family stayed faithful to the old religion during the Reformation. It was rebuilt as the main residence again (‘but still called the ‘Dowery House’) in the 1650s once Drummond Castle was damaged by the English troops under Cromwell, and was also given extensive formal gardens in the latest baroque style. Confiscated by the Crown after the ’45 Rebellion, it was re-granted to the next heir in 1784, but by the end of the century passed through a daughter into the family of Willoughby de Eresby (see my recent post about that family). In 1953, the Willoughby heir, the Earl of Ancaster, ceded Stobhall Castle back to the Earl of Perth, who tried to restore it to more liveable conditions. But since 2011, the family has mostly abandoned it, and sold off much of its contents.

Stobhall today

So who were these Drummonds? Like many eminent Scottish families they have a Gaelic origin to the surname—dromainn, a low ridge, which gives the current Gaelic spelling of the name, Druimeanach—and a mythical origin story. In this case, a natural son of King Andrew of Hungary (d. 1060), George (or Yourick), born of a pagan mother before the King converted to Christianity in order to marry a princess of Kievan Rus in about 1040, had a son called Móric (Maurice) who is said to have accompanied a relative, the exiled English prince, Edgar Aetheling (whose mother may also have been a princess of Rus), back to England, in 1057. Edgar and his sister Margaret had to flee England after 1066, and due to a storm were shipwrecked in Scotland, where they were taken in by King Malcolm III who then married Margaret (later one of the patron saints of Scotland). So the story goes, Malcolm then granted Maurice lands in the region to the west of Stirling, near the shores of Loch Lomond, called Drymen, from which his descendants took the name Drummond. Now while most of this is probably fantasy, the early Drummonds did come from this area (part of what was once the region called Lennox, and they sometimes still use the title ‘thane of Lennox’), and there is an ancient barony in the area called Drummond. They were likely vassals of the more powerful nobles in the region, the Menteiths, who, in about 1360, made a deal with them to exchange any lands in Lennox with those further east in Perthshire. Historians suspect that the later Drummonds concocted the story of descent from a Hungarian prince to raise their status in comparison to their former lords.

a modern compilation of the Drummond coat of arms, its tartan pattern and the areas of Perthshire they dominated, as well as the part of Stirlingshire (Lennox)

The earliest recorded Drummond is Malcolm Beg (living in 1240), who acted as chamberlain to the Earl of Lennox, and married his daughter, Ada. His grandson, Gilbert ‘de Drumund’, swore fealty to the English king, Edward I, in 1296, at the time of the Scottish wars of independence, but Gilbert’s brother, Sir Malcolm, switched sides and fought for Robert the Bruce at Bannockburn, 1314, and was granted lands in Perthshire. Malcolm had three children: John married an heiress of the Montefichet family, bringing in the feudal baronies of Auchterarder and Cargill, and the castle at Stobhall; Sir Maurice became the first laird of Concraig, in Strathearn (the valley of the river Earn), another part of Perthshire, and founded a cadet branch of the family; while Margaret succeeded better than any of them, marrying the Bruce’s son, King David II, in 1363. A second Drummond queen emerged just a few years later, in Margaret’s niece (or perhaps cousin), Annabella Drummond, wife of John Stewart, Earl of Carrick, who in 1390 succeeded to the Scottish throne in 1390, taking the name Robert III. Queen Annabella ruled Scotland in the name of her increasingly mentally ill husband, and was the mother of the first of a long line of Scottish kings called James.

Annabella Drummond, Queen of Scots, wearing a heraldic Drummond dress

The cadet branch established by Sir Maurice at Concraig eventually became known as the Drummonds of Lennoch and Megginch. They were hereditary stewards of the earldom of Strathearn. Looking through the genealogical lists, two interesting people emerge from this branch of the family. Sir Gordon Drummond of Megginch was a prominent British general in the War of 1812, and was subsequently Governor-General of the Canadian provinces (1815-16); the town of Drummondville in Quebec and the township of Drummond in Ontario are named for him, as is the island of Drummond, in Lake Huron, ceded by Britain to the United States (now Michigan) in 1828. In the twentieth century, another Drummond of Megginch successfully brought the barony of Strange out of abeyance in his favour, in 1965. The rather, er, strange, history of this barony (a 1628 creation, to correct a mistaken assumption of a much older barony), had ancient connections with the sovereignty of the Isle of Man, and the new 15th Baron moved there and tried to improve the local economy as a sign of his ‘lordship’ there. The Baron’s daughter was Cherry Drummond, 16th Baroness Strange, who was active in the House of Lords but also a steamy romance novelist. Her niece is the actress Geraldine Somerville, aka, Harry Potter’s mum.

Megginch Castle is east of Perth, on the north shore of the river Tay as it broadens out into a wide firth. Built in the 1460s by the Hay family, it was purchased by the Drummonds in 1644. Today it is held by Cherry Drummond’s daughter, Catherine Drummond-Herdman, and known for its gardens and topiary, but only open occasionally to the public.

Megginch Castle

Meanwhile, the main branch of the Drummond family moved its centre of operations in about 1490 from Stobhall Castle to Drummond Castle, on a rise above the river Earn, south of the town of Crieff. To an ancient tower house, a mansion was added in the 1630s, with extensive gardens that are still the highlight of the property (considered one of the finest terraced gardens in Britain). It was badly damaged in the Civil Wars, then slighted by the government after the first Jacobite uprising of 1715, and then formally seized by the Crown in 1750, and sold back to the heir in 1784. As with Stobhall, it then passed through a daughter (who took the name Drummond-Burrell) to the Willoughby family, and was largely rebuilt in the nineteenth century; but unlike Stobhall they did not give it back, and it remains the second seat of the Willoughbys (along with Grimsthorpe Castle in Lincolnshire).

Drummond Castle, Perthshire

The 15th and 16th centuries were periods of clan rivalries and often quite violent and bloody feuds. One of the bloodiest involves the three daughters of the first Lord Drummond. Sir John, of Cargill (an estate north of Stobhall, on the Tay), had been a lord in Parliament (as ‘Lord Stobhall’), and the King’s envoy to English in negotiating peace talks and border settlements in the 1480s. In 1488 he was the Justiciar of Scotland (the most senior legal office in the Kingdom), and was created Lord Drummond. Shortly after, his daughter became mistress to the new king, James IV, and some sources think he may have married her, at least in secret. In 1501, Margaret and her two sisters, Euphemia, Lady Fleming, and Sibylla, were staying at Drummond Castle when all three suddenly died. Modern historians suspect it was merely food poisoning, but numerous romantic stories have been woven in which Margaret has to be ‘removed’ so that the King could be free to marry Margaret Tudor, daughter of Henry VII, in 1502. Her sisters were just collateral damage.

Other cadet branches established in this time period included Drummond of Blair, and Drummond of Innerpeffray. The first of these established themselves north of Perth, at Blair (in the parish of Blairgowrie), and were given a feudal barony in the 1630s, but later moved their seat to the valley of the river Teith in western Perthshire (now Stirlingshire). They built a new fashionable house here, Blair Drummond, in 1716, but not long after became extinct in the male line—so from 1766 this house too passed to another family, Home-Drummond, who kept it in the family until the early 20th century, then sold it. It is now the site of one of Britain’s great safari park attractions.

Blair Drummond

The second cadet line were established at Innerpeffray, an estate across the Tay from Drummond Castle, with its own tower house. The second laird married Margaret Stewart, the illegitimate daughter of his cousin Margaret Drummond and King James IV. Their daughter then married the 3rd Lord Drummond, and the property was re-integrated into the main line. the 3rd Lord’s brother, James Drummond, was ultimately given this feudal barony by King James VI, with whom he had been raised (and whom he later served as Gentleman of the Bedchamber). In 1609, he was created 1st Lord Maderty, and in 1610, he rebuilt Innerpeffray Castle—today a ruin. In the later seventeenth century, his grandson was created Viscount Strathallan; and his descendants eventually succeeded as Earl of Perth in 1902. So we will pick them up again at the end of this post.

Innerpeffray Castle

Lord Maderty’s nephew, James Drummond, was also in favour with the King, now James I of England, and was raised higher in the peerage, as Earl of Perth, in 1605. He had served the King as ambassador to Spain the year before (an important re-establishment of this link after many years of enmity between these two great sea powers); and his sister, Jean, was one of the favourites of the Queen, Anna of Denmark, and later 1st Countess of Roxburgh. She had been a governess to young Prince Charles when still in Scotland, and later was re-appointed by this same prince, now King Charles I, as governess to his younger children, despite objections to her religion—she remained, like many in her family, a Catholic.

The 2nd Earl of Perth was the 1st Earl’s brother, and he lived a long life, always a supporter of the Stuarts now based in London, but he and his family continued to marry consistently within the Scottish peerage families, particularly those with Catholic leanings like the Gordons of Huntly, but also the Kerrs of Roxburghe, a border family with particular close links to King James and Queen Anna. And by the time his eldest son succeeded as 3rd Earl of Perth in 1662, his third surviving son, William, had already become 2nd Earl of Roxburghe in 1650, as heir to his Kerr grandfather. The Drummond-Kerr family (or just Ker, with one r) would become dukes of Roxburghe in 1707, with their magnificent seat at Floors Castle, but will be written about in a separate post. This line of the House of Ker came to an end in 1805, and the Roxburghe succession was hotly contested, in part by the descendants of the 2nd Earl’s older brother, Sir John Drummond of Logie Almond (an estate he purchased to the north of the traditional Drummond estates in Perthshire). The unsuccessful claimant, Sir William, was an interesting figure, a poet and classical scholar in the world of early Romanticism and fascination with all things Greek, who was able to indulge in these passions as British ambassador to Naples and to the Ottoman Empire in the first decade of the 19th century.

But jumping back to the 17th century, it is with the 4th Earl of Perth, James Drummond, and his brother John, Lord Melfort, that the story of the Drummonds becomes really prominent in the history of Great Britain. Both were ardent supporters of Stuart rule in Scotland, and of James VII (James II in England) in particular, especially at a time when this king had few loyal supporters. Like King James, both converted to the Catholic faith and both were exiled after the Glorious Revolution of 1688. In the last years of the reign of Charles II, the 4th Earl rose through the ranks of the Scottish judiciary and became Lord Justice General in 1682, and Lord Chancellor of Scotland in 1684. John was instead a soldier, and was appointed Master of the Ordnance and a Lieutenant-General in 1680, before also joining government as Treasurer Depute (like Chancellor of the Exchequer in England) in 1682, then Secretary of State for Scotland in 1684. So by the time Charles II’s brother James became king in 1685, the Drummond brothers were virtual rulers of Scotland. Both of them were honoured in the creation of the new Order of the Thistle, 1687, as two of the original eight knights. The Earl of Perth became a proponent of Scottish colonial ventures in the Americas (since England had virtually sown up this market), by supporting a venture to develop the colony of New Jersey, of which he was one of the 24 proprietary lords. The port of Perth Amboy, across the bay from New York, is named for him.

James Drummond, 4th Earl of Perth

The younger brother was soon raised to the peerage, first as Viscount Melfort in 1685, then Earl of Melfort in 1686—Melfort being a village on the coast of Lorne in Argyllshire, south of the town of Oban. This was land confiscated from the local magnate Campbell family, which seems like a pretty dangerous thing. The Earl of Melfort became one of the closest advisors to King James and lived at court in London, so was out of touch with sentiment on the ground in Scotland. He advised the King, for example, that the Scottish Kirk would welcome an act of toleration, allowing Catholics to hold public office. To add further salt to the wound, he and his brother Perth opened a Catholic Chapel in Edinburgh. This was not at all the time for such a thing, and when King James was pushed out of England and Scotland in the Glorious Revolution, so too were the Drummond brothers.

John Drummond, 1st Earl of Melfort, later 1st Duke, wearing the robes of the Order of the Thistle

Melfort fled with the King to France, where Louis XIV (King James’s first cousin) provided them with lodgings in the ‘old’ royal palace, Saint-Germain-en-Laye, to the west of Paris (not too far from Versailles). Perth also tried to flee to France but was caught—snatched from a boat by sailors who recognised him, despite his ‘disguise’ in women’s clothing—and was imprisoned in Stirling Castle for several years, until 1693, when he too joined the exiled Stuart court at Saint-Germain. By this point, Melfort was in the ascendancy. King James named him Secretary of State in December 1688, and sent him as his ambassador to Rome in 1689, but he was unsuccessful in gaining support for an invasion. In 1692, he was created Duke of Melfort (with subsidiary titles, Marquess of Forth, Earl of Isla and Burntisland, Viscount Rickerton, etc), which was of course never recognised in the Scottish peerage. This ‘Jacobite peerage’ was however, formally recognised by Louis XIV in 1701, which gave him the equivalent rank and privileges at the French court as a duke and peer of France. This meant, for example, that he could ride in the carriage of the King, and that his wife (the former Euphemia Wallace) could sit in the presence of the Dauphine (first lady of the court in the absence of a queen).

the Royal Chateau of Saint-Germain-en-Laye

But Melfort pressed too hard for a hard-line, no compromises approach to the King’s restoration, and he lost favour with James and his other senior courtiers, and was replaced as Secretary of State by the more moderate, and Protestant (for now), Earl of Middleton. From June 1694, Melfort left the Stuart court at Saint-Germain and lived for a time in Orléans then Rouen. He settled in Paris and died in 1714, being buried in the church of Saint-Sulpice.

The Earl of Perth retained his favour with the King. He became more of a courtier rather than a politician, and in particular was appointed to the prominent role of Governor to the Prince of Wales, 1696. Perth was regularly seen at Versailles, where he would accompany his charge the Prince of Wales when he attended numerous balls and royal ceremonies. At the château of Saint-Germain, he was given a suite of rooms alongside those of the Drummond of Melfort family and other courtiers including another Jacobite duke written about in a previous blog post, the Duke of Powis. In 1701, he too was given a dukedom, that of Perth, with subsidiary titles Marquess of Drummond, Earl of Stobhall, Viscount Cargill and Baron Concraig. Like that of Melfort, this dukedom was formally recognised by the King of France. This ducal creation was done as one of the first acts of the former Prince of Wales, now recognised by Jacobites as James III of England and VIII of Scotland (aka ‘the Old Pretender’), who also named his former governor as a Gentleman of the Bedchamber, 1703, and Knight of the Garter, 1706. The Duke of Perth supported the rising of the Jacobites in 1715, and as a result was formally stripped of his title Earl of Perth by the government in London. He died a short while later in 1716 and was buried in the Chapel of the Scots College in Paris (part of the University of Paris, in the heart of the Left Bank).

James, 1st Duke of Perth as an older man

His son James, now the 2nd Duke of Perth, had been educated as a Catholic at the Scots College. As the heir (‘Lord Drummond’), he had fought with King James in Ireland, 1689-90, and was appointed the King’s Master of the Horse back in France in 1705. Unlike the Melfort family, the Perths had kept hold of their Scottish estates after 1688, so Lord Drummond relocated there, where his son was born in 1713, at Drummond Castle. But by 1715 it was clear he was still a supporter of the Jacobite cause, and led a cavalry unit at the Battle of Sheriffmuir in 1715 (now as ‘Marquess of Drummond’, using the Jacobite title for the heir). He then escaped back to the continent in February 1716, joining the titular James III in exile in Avignon. He died in 1720, but having donated his lands to his son before the attainder by the British government, his Scottish-born son was still able to retain the Drummond properties, if not the Drummond titles.

James, 2nd Duke of Perth (as Marquess Drummond)

The 3rd Duke of Perth did go abroad for his education, to the Catholic Scots College in Douai, but settled back in Scotland by the 1730s (and in some sources was indeed known there at least unofficially as a duke). His interests seemed mostly to be horse racing rather than politics, but he suddenly joined the Jacobite cause in 1740, and raised a regiment from his tenantry in Crieff at the request of Bonnie Prince Charlies in the summer of 1745. Perth was not a great commander, as it turned out, but was extremely popular, which was useful for the rather disagreeable (and quite foreign) Stuart prince. He led the invasion of England in 1745, but was seen as a poor choice for this, as a Scot and a Catholic. The Duke of Perth was one of the two lieutenants-general (with Lord George Murray) at the Battle of Culloden in April 1746, alongside his brother, Lord John Drummond. The Duke escaped from the disaster, but died on his sea voyage back to France.

James, 3rd Duke of Perth, painted as a commander at Culloden

Lord John became the 4th Duke of Perth, but only for a year. He had been an officer in the French army and was commissioned by Louis XV to form a new regiment, the Regiment Royal-Ecossais, in 1743. This is different to the Scots Guard, which had been a key component of the military household of the kings of France since the early 15th century. Other Drummonds served in the Royal-Ecossais, including Lord Louis of the Melfort branch, and his cousin Viscount Strathallan. Lord John was hot tempered and often offensive, but a good soldier, and was left in command of Jacobite troops in Scotland when the bulk of the army marched south into England. After escaping from Culloden, the new 4th Duke of Perth served in the French forces besieging the Dutch fortress of Bergen-op-Zoom, where he was killed in 1747.

John, 4th Duke of Perth
the banner of the Royal Scots Regiment

Neither the 3rd nor 4th Duke had married. Their Scottish titles were attainted once more by the Hanoverian government, and this time their lands were confiscated as well. Their fiery Jacobite mother, born Lady Jean Gordon, was imprisoned in Edinburgh Castle in 1746, but was allowed to return to Stobhall where she died in 1773, age 90. The titular 5th Duke of Perth (an uncle) had stayed in Scotland and did not use the Jacobite titles; when he died in 1757 he was succeeded by a half-brother, Lord Edward, who lived in France. He had long been a Gentleman of the Chamber of James III (since 1711) and had married a daughter of the Earl of Middleton in 1709, thus reconciling these two factions of the Jacobite court. In 1712 he had accompanied James III to Bar-le-Duc when he was exiled from France, and accompanied in him in his ill-fated journey to reclaim the throne of Scotland in 1716, and then to the next place of exile, Avignon (where he was also joined by the 2nd Duke of Perth and the 2nd Duke of Melfort), and on to the Papal States in Italy in 1717, though the post of Gentleman of the Bedchamber was abolished for the Pretender’s ever dwindling court. He finally abandoned the King and returned to Saint-Germain in the Summer of 1718. With the death of Queen Mary of Modena that Spring, the château was now just a collection of Jacobite exiles, no longer a royal court. To try to keep himself financially afloat, Lord Edward invested heavily in the financial schemes of fellow Scottish exile John Law, but lost big when these schemes collapsed in 1720 (the ‘Mississippi Bubble’). He and his wife continued to occupy one of the grandest apartments at Saint-Germain, on the first floor, opposite the equally grand apartments occupied by their Melfort cousins. In the 1740s he became a zealous supporter of the religious movement in France known as Jansenism, seen as subversive by the French Crown, and was arrested and briefly confined in the Bastille for his beliefs. After 1748, he and his wife left Saint-Germain and bought a house in Paris, in the faubourg Saint-Antoine, where they were still watched by government authorities suspicious of Jansenist activities. When he died childless in 1760, this branch of the Drummond family came to an end.

The younger branch, Melfort, continued, and by this point had already taken over the larger Perth apartments at Saint-Germain. The 2nd Duke of Melfort, another John, was not in fact the 1st Duke’s eldest son. The two eldest sons, James and Robert, had been bypassed in favour of the Catholic sons from a second marriage. The older boys were heirs via their mother to the lordship of Lundin on the south coast of Fife, and took that as their surname. Lundin House had been a tower house in the 14th century, but now had a more elegant country house added. John Lundin, as eldest male general of the House of Drummond in 1760, became titular 10th Earl of Perth, and even more titular 7th Duke of Perth. Having re-assumed the name Drummond, he moved back to the family seat at Stobhall in 1773, then died in 1781 leaving these (not-pressed for) claims to his second son. Lundin House was sold before 1800, to the Erskines, and was demolished in 1876 (though the ancient tower remains).

Lundin Tower, Fife

The elder son, Thomas ‘Lord Drummond’ (a title he was not entitled to due to the attainders of 1716 and 1746), had travelled to New Jersey to represent the family’s claims there, and in the mid-1770s, tried to act as a conciliator between the British government and American colonial leadership in New York—to little effect. He returned to England and died in 1780, so the Perth claims passed to his younger brother James. The titular 8th Duke of Perth had served in India, and now was successful in getting some of the family lands restored in 1784, but not the titles. As a gesture of goodwill, George III did create a new title for him in 1797, Lord Perth, Baron Drummond of Stobhall, which became extinct only a few years later in 1800, when the Drummond estates passed (as seen above) to his daughter Clementina and her husband, Peter Burrell.

In contrast to the line of dukes of Perth, the later dukes of Melfort integrated themselves more thoroughly into French society. The 2nd Duke (John) married a French heiress, Marie-Gabrielle d’Audibert, Countess of Lussan, a widow of two other prominent Jacobites: the Duke of Albemarle (an illegitimate son of King James II), and an Irish soldier, Colonel O’Mahoney. The 15th-century château of Lussan was in the far south of France, in Languedoc, a bit north of the famous Pont du Gard and across the Rhône from Avignon, where the Jacobite court was established for a few years after the ‘15. Lussan would remain in Drummond hands until confiscated during the French Revolution.

Château de Lussan

There were several younger brothers: one joined Habsburg military service in Austria, one became a French abbot, while another, Andrew (or André) was a French lieutenant general, as was his son, Louis-Hector, known as the ‘Comte de Melfort’, who wrote a well-respected treatise about cavalry. This line continued, as ‘Drummond de Melfort’.

the book by Louis-Hector, Comte Drummond de Melfort

Two of their sisters, Mary and Frances, were also quite interesting in that both married in succession the same Spanish grandee: Don José de Rozas, Count of Castelblanco, who would be created Duke of Saint Andrews by the Old Pretender in 1717, in thanks for his support for the Jacobite cause (particularly in sourcing the money to fund an abortive Jacobite rising of 1719). A grand-daughter of the younger sister, María Teresa de Vallabriga y Rozas Drummond de Melfort, would in 1776 marry the Infante Luis Antonio, brother of Carlos III, King of Spain, which caused a bit of a scandal since she was not of royal rank.

Lady Frances Drummond, Duchess of Saint Andrews

The 3rd Duke of Melfort (formerly known as ‘Lord Forth’) was also Comte de Lussan, but it was his brother, Lord Louis, who was more prominent. As noted above he was one of the commanders of the Scottish Royal Regiment at Culloden in 1746, then returned to military service in France, rising to the rank of Lieutenant-General in 1780. He died in the middle of the Revolution in 1792. His nephew, Jacques-Louis, the 4th Duke of Melfort since 1766, emigrated to Spain in 1790, to escape the Revolution. When his cousin Baron Drummond died in 1800, he inherited the claims to the Perth earldom, as well as the Perth dukedom, meaning the two dukedoms were now joined. But he lived only a few more months and died later in 1800.

the arms used by the Dukes of Melfort in France, adding the Audibert red lion, with a ‘augmentation of honour’ overall reflecting the claims of descent from a Hungarian prince

By this point, the Jacobite court no longer existed at Saint-Germain. The Melforts had stayed at Saint-Germain-en-Laye longer than most. Most of the Jacobite community was evicted by the new republican government in 1793, with the exception of the Dowager Duchess (Marie de Béranger) and her youngest son Lord Maurice, who became prisoners in their apartments. Some months later, they too were evicted. Maurice managed to return to the family apartments in 1795, then left for Scotland in 1804. And even a decade later, at the Restoration of the Bourbon monarchy in 1814, Lord Maurice and his mother returned to France, and were this time given apartments by Louis XVIII at Versailles, where the last duchess died in 1819.

The 4th Duke of Melfort had been succeeded by his brother, Charles-Edouard, a priest (called ‘Abbé de Melfort’), who could now be called the 5th Duke of Melfort and 10th Duke of Perth. He did apply for a re-consideration of the attainder of the Perth titles, unsuccessfully. For a time, he was chaplain in the recently rebuilt Catholic church in London (the only one), St Mary Moorfields, close to Finsbury Circus, but also maintained close ties to Rome where he died in 1840.

St Mary Moorfields as it appeared in the 1830s

Things then began to reverse for the family in the next generation: the now titular 11th Duke of Perth, the Abbé’s nephew George, was a Protestant, and after having his rights to Lussan confirmed by the French Council of State in 1841 (along with his title ‘Duc de Melfort’), he turned his attentions again to the reversal of the attainders in the United Kingdom. In 1853, he was successful and was restored as 5th Earl of Perth (or some number it as if the older numbering had continued, so 14th Earl). But though he himself lived a long life, both his son, George, Viscount Forth, and his grandson, George, Lord Drummond, predeceased him, so when the 5th Earl died in 1902, the Perth titles passed to a very distant cousin, while the county of Lussan (and arguably the Melfort French dukedom) passed to his daughter, Marie-Louise, who died unmarried in 1937. I suppose this title went to a cousin, the Countess of Rothes (a Titanic survivor), and it probably resides in the Leslie family today. The cadet line of counts of Melfort (descendants of Louis-Hector) had died out sometime in the 19th century.

an obituary photo of the 5th Earl of Perth, ‘Duc de Melfort’

Therefore, the Drummond succession jumped back across many generations to a more distant branch of the family, the viscounts of Strathallan.

Strathallan is the valley or strath of the Allan Water, the small river that flows into the river Forth at Stirling (near the site of one of the major battles in the Jacobite uprising of 1715, at Sheriffmuir near Bridge of Allan). Today it is still the major route through the Highlands to the far north of Scotland for both the train and the highway (the A9). So a castle had been here to guard this passage for centuries, near the Drummond barony of Auchterarder. Today’s Strathallan Castle is an old building with a newer façade from the early 19th century. It was sold by the Drummonds in 1910 to the Roberts family, and became well-known again in the 21st century for briefly hosting the major music festival, ‘T in the Park’.

Strathallan Castle

Back in 1686, a younger son of the 2nd Baron Maderty, William Drummond, was created Viscount Strathallan and Baron Drummond of Cromlix. He had been a royalist general in the Civil Wars (and continued to agitate on behalf of the Stuarts in Scotland well into the 1650s). In 1655, he was recruited to lead the armies of Muscovy against the Poles and the Tatars, gaining the great favour of Tsar Alexis. Charles II had to convince the Tsar to let Drummond return in 1666, to take up the position of Major-General of the Forces in Scotland. He was an MP in the 1670s, then General of the Ordnance in 1684, and appointed a Lord of the Treasury in 1685—so we see him playing an important part in the government of his Drummond cousins, Perth and Melfort. Viscount Strathallan died in 1688, and his son married a daughter of Melfort, keeping the two branches of the family close. The 2nd and 3rd Viscounts died in close succession (1702 and 1711), leaving the entailed estates (but not the title) to an aunt, whose descendants took the name Hay-Drummond (the earls of Kinnoul), and who inherited the estate at Cromlix and built a new grand mansion there, Cromlix House, in 1874. Since the 1980s it has been a luxury hotel, owned since 2013 by the tennis star Andy Murray.

William Drummond, 1st Viscount Strathallan

The viscounty of Strathallan passed to a cousin, William Drummond of Machany. The 4th Viscount Strathallan was a Jacobite who took part in the ’15, was pardoned, then returned the favour by raising a cavalry unit for the ’45. As part of the dramatic actions of that year, he was named governor of the city of Perth by Bonnie Prince Charlie, then led his cavalry at Culloden, where he was killed. His son escaped from Scotland, and his title was attainted in July 1746.

William, 4th Viscount Strathallan

The (now titular) 5th Viscount Strathallan joined the Régiment Royal-Ecossais in France. An uncle, Andrew, stayed in England, where he had founded the Drummond Bank back in 1717, and now worked hard to keep it from foundering—which must have been quite the task in the face of so many Drummonds fighting against the Crown at Culloden. Andrew Drummond was successful in this, for by the 1760s, he was banker to George III himself and several other members of the royal family. Drummonds Bank remained one of the largest private banks in the United Kingdom till it was joined to the Royal Bank of Scotland in 1924 (though retaining its own separate identity as part of that bank’s wider operations). Its buildings since the 18th century have occupied a prominent site in the zone between the cities of London and Westminster, today on the edge of the Mall and Admiralty Arch on the southern side of Trafalgar Square.

Drummond Bank on Trafalagar Square, London

To the north of London, near Harrow, was the Drummond family estate at Stanmore in Middlesex, built for Andrew Drummond in 1763, whose park was immortalised in a well known portrait of upper-class domestic life by Johan Zoffany. Stanmore later passed to another family in 1839 and was demolished in 1938.

Zoffany’s portrait of the family of Andrew Drummond

Another member of this branch of the family was the banker Henry Drummond, who was one of the founders of the Catholic Apostolic Church in England in the 1820s. In 1819, he purchased Albury Park in Surrey, originally built in the late 17th century for the Duke of Norfolk; it was later owned by another Duke, Northumberland, from 1890 to 1969.

Albury Park, Surrey

So Catholicism remained a major thread in the story of the Drummonds. In 1824, the 8th Viscount of Strathallan got a reversal of his attainder, so he could once again use the title, but was prevented from holding high public office until Catholic Emancipation later in that decade. In 1902, his great-grandson, the 11th Viscount became the senior male of Clan Drummond, and succeeded to the title 6th Earl of Perth (or 15th counting those excluded during the attainder). For devoted Jacobites, he could also be counted as the 12th Duke of Perth. His younger brother, Sir Eric Drummond, was the 1st Secretary General of the League of Nations, 1920 to 1933, then British Ambassador to Italy from 1933. His career too had been affected by his Catholicism, as the Prime Minister, Ramsay Macdonald, blocked his appointment to the ambassadorship to Washington due to his religious affiliation. Ironically, this Drummond had been born a Presbyterian, but converted to his ancestral faith in 1903 to marry Angela Constable-Maxwell, sister of the Duchess of Norfolk (the Howards being another notable Catholic noble clan). He became 7th Earl of Perth and Chief of Clan Drummond in 1937.

Sir Eric Drummond, later 7th Earl of Perth

His son the 8th Earl of Perth (‘Viscount Strathallan’ as heir) succeeded in 1951. He took had a political career, first as Minister of State for Colonial Affairs in 1957 to 1962—a fascinating time to be involved in the dismantling of the British Empire—then as First Crown Estate Commissioner, ie chief executive of the corporation that manages the estates formerly owned privately by the British royal family. He held that post until 1977 and died in 2002. The 9th Earl sold off much of the contents of Stobhall Castle and made his London home the main family seat. His son James has been 10th Earl of Perth since March 2023. Theoretically, he could become the 16th Duke of Perth should King Charles III turn out to be a Jacobite, but I don’t think that’s likely.

The Battle of Culloden, by David Morier (c. 1750)

Dukes of Alburquerque: Royal Favourites and Colonial Governors

Once upon a time there was a Spanish outpost built in the far northern reaches of New Spain, in the Rio Grande Valley of the province of Santa Fe de Nuevo Mexico. Its founders named it after the Viceroy based in far-off Mexico City, the 10th Duke of Alburquerque. Some years later, the increasingly Anglophone settlers in the area dropped the first ‘r’. Today’s city of Albuquerque, New Mexico, has little memory of its connection to a small town and castle the dry barren lands of Extremadura, the frontier province between Spain and Portugal.

the Castle of Alburquerque in western Spain

This proximity to the border makes the history of the name Alburquerque (Albuquerque in Portuguese) a bit more interesting, as it lent its name to a number of noble families linked via female lines who spread out all over the world and included famous empire builders in India and Brazil. The most famous to bear the name, Afonso de Albuquerque, established Portuguese naval supremacy in the Indian Ocean and was named Duke of Goa in 1515. The castle of Alburquerque, in Castile, however, belonged by that time to the family of La Cueva, founded by one of the most interesting figures in Spanish history of the 15th century, Beltrán de La Cueva, who allegedly fathered the Infanta Juana—called ‘la Beltraneja’ after her supposed father—who challenged the rights to the Castilian throne of the Infanta Isabella, more famous as half of the duo Ferdinand and Isabella. Perhaps as a ‘reward’ for providing King Enrique IV an heir, Beltrán was created 1st Duke of Alburquerque in 1464. These two families, Albuquerque and La Cueva, Portuguese and Castilian, were not closely related, but it is interesting to consider their histories together, in particular their legacies in India, Brazil and Mexico in the era of incredibly powerful colonial governors.

The castle of Alburquerque was founded by Castilian kings after the region was retaken from the Moors in the early 13th century, not far from the town of Badajoz. It controlled this new frontier area south of the river Tagus (Tejo) that became known as Extremadura (the ‘extreme’ south-western edge of royal control at this time. Its name likely comes from albus quercus (white oak), signifying cork oak grown in this region. Its first lord was Alfonso Téllez de Meneses, a Castilian warrior with origins near Palencia. His new lordship in this area of reconquest was granted by the King of Portugal, however (not Castile), Sancho I, as part of the arrangement of marrying the King’s illegitimate daughter, Teresa Sanches, in about 1213. Alfonso’s elder son founded the House of Teles de Meneses (one of the most powerful Portuguese noble lines in Middle Ages), while his second marriage produced João Afonso, who was active at both the court of Afonso III of Portugal and Alfonso X of Castile—a good example of the fluidity of these borders in this time period. The castle high on a rock above the settlement was built mostly by the 4th Lord, another João Afonso Teles de Meneses in the 1270s and then completed by his son-in-law Afonso Sanches de Portugal. João Afonso was also the Mordomo mor (head of the royal household) of King Diniz, and one of his chief advisors and diplomats. Connections with royalty abounded: the 4th Lord of Albuquerque’s wife was another Teresa Sanchez, illegitimate daughter of King Sancho IV of Castile; and later in the century, a cousin, Leonor Teles, was the mistress then queen-consort of King Ferdinand of Portugal.

an early modern view of the Castle

With Afonso Sanches de Portugal taking control of the castle of Alburquerque, the lordship passed to a branch of the royal line itself. He was the illegitimate son of King Diniz, and elder half-brother of King Afonso IV. He was not only the firstborn son, however, he was also the favoured son of King Diniz, who created him Count of Albuquerque and arranged his marriage to the heiress of that lordship (Teresa Martins de Albuquerque) in 1304, and also successor to her father’s court office of Mordomo mor. When Afonso IV became king in 1325, he exiled his brother, and a few years later he was murdered. But the line continued, now in service of the kings of Castile: the 2nd Count of Alburquerque (Juan Alfonso ‘the Good’) was chief military officer of Alfonso XI, then Chancellor of the Kingdom of Castile and a favourite of his successor, King Pedro, from 1350. He only enjoyed this favour and this high office for a few years before Pedro ‘the Cruel’ turned on him and probably had him murdered. These were rough times to be a royal favourite!

But the line continued: the 3rd Count, a natural son (though described as legitimate in some sources), Martin, was appointed Governor of Murcia, but was also murdered by King Pedro; his brother Fernando Alfonso, the 4th Count, seems to have gone back into Portuguese service, and was appointed Grand Master of the Order of Santiago in Portugal. And at some point about now (the 1360s; I’m unclear on this), the County of Albuquerque is formally transferred back to the domains of the kings of Castile, not Portugal. The last of the original Portuguese house of Albuquerque died leaving only two natural daughters. The second of these, Teresa, married a Portuguese nobleman, Vasco Martins da Cunha, in about 1370, and transmitted her family name (not his) to their descendants—see below.

Meanwhile, the castle and estates at Albuquerque, now a Castilian fief, were given to yet another illegitimate royal line. Don Sancho Alfonso de Castilla was one of several illegitimate sons of King Alfonso XI. He was created Count of Alburquerque sometime between 1366 and 1373, and also served as chief military officer (Alferez mayor) of his half-brother Enrique II, founder of the royal house of Trastámara, in 1370. Not losing Portuguese connections, however, the Count married Beatriz de Portugal, daughter of King Pedro I (not the same guy as Pedro the Cruel). Perhaps Alburquerque was her dowry. The 2nd Count of Alburquerque died as a child, and the lands and title passed to his sister, Leonor de Alburquerque who, in 1394, married King Enrique’s second grandson, Fernando de Antequera, who, sort of against his will, was elected King of Aragon in 1412.

tomb of Sancho Alfonso de Castilla, in Burgos Cathedral

Initially, the County of Alburquerque was given to Leonor’s younger sons, Enrique and Pedro of Aragon, but in 1445, King Juan II of Castile (not their own brother King Juan II of Aragon…I know, this is really confusing!) took the estates away from this line and granted it to his favourite, Alvaro de Luna, Constable of Castile, who largely rebuilt the castle to its present appearance (so today it is called the ‘Castillo de Luna’). Like most favourites we’ve encountered so far, Luna fell from favour fast and hard and was executed in 1453, and the next king, Enrique IV, gave Alburquerque to his own favourite, Beltrán de la Cueva, as we’ve seen above. The castle would remain in the possession of this family for the next few centuries (though, interestingly, it would briefly return to Portuguese rule by conquest during the War of Spanish Succession). It has been administered as a Spanish national monument since early 20th century. So we need to turn to the family La Cueva, but first we can look at the last of the Portuguese lords who used ‘Albuquerque’ as a surname, not a title.

another view of the Castle at Alburquerque, the Castillo de Luna

As we saw above, Teresa de Albuquerque married Vasco Martins da Cunha. Her daughters and grand-daughters mostly kept the name Albuquerque (while the sons continued their father’s patronymic line). So although by ‘purist’ genealogical reckonings, the family names changed first to Vaz de Melo then Gonçalves de Gomide, the next in this line of descent was known as Gonçalo de Albuquerque (d. c1462), Lord of Vila Verde dos Francos, a village in the hills north of Lisbon. His second son became the Grand Admiral of the Indian Ocean, ‘the Caesar of the East’, Afonso de Albuquerque.

Afonso de Albuquerque, Duke of Goa, Viceroy of India

Young Afonso had been raised as a companion of the young Portuguese prince João, son of King Afonso V, who became King João II in 1481 and named his friend as his Master of the Horse and Chief Equerry. João II was one of the great builders of the Portuguese empire overseas, and this was continued by his cousin, King Manuel I, who, in 1506, appointed Albuquerque to command a fleet in the Indian Ocean (some say this appointment was to get his cousin’s former favourite, and thus a political rival, out of the country). Within a year, Albuquerque had conquered Muscat and Hormuz—the Muslim states guarding access to the Persian Gulf—then two years later defeated a combined Ottoman and Mamluk (Egyptian) fleet at the Battle of Diu. This was one of the turning points of world history that ended Ottoman domination of the Indian Ocean and turned it into virtually a Portuguese lake. In 1509 Albuquerque was appointed 2nd Viceroy of Portuguese India, and in 1510, conquered the city of Goa and moved the capital of the ‘Estado da India’ here (initially established a bit further south in Cochin on the Malabar coast). It would remain the capital of Portuguese India until 1961.

an early map of the Indian Ocean, with India to the right, Arabia to the left, and the Persian Gulf in blue

The city of Goa had been founded in the fifteenth century as a port on the banks of the Mandovi river by the sultans of Bijapur. It was built to replace Govapuri, which lay a few kilometres to the south and had been used as a port by earlier Hindu kings. Afonso de Albuquerque secured the loyalty of many of the majority Hindu population by removing the oppressive taxes of their previous Islamic rulers. Goa became the chief naval base for the Portuguese empire of the east, and from here, Albuquerque launched exploratory and military missions to Malacca and the Spice Islands. He established diplomatic ties with China, with Ethiopia and with the Persian Empire. Finally, in 1515, he was created Duke of Goa, the first non-royal dukedom in Portugal (though since it is not actually in the Kingdom, some sources do not count it), but he died shortly after.

Goa in 1572, in ‘Cities of the World’ by Braun

Afonso de Albuquerque left an illegitimate son, Braz, born before his father departed for the Indian Ocean, and was later renamed Afonso by royal command to honour his late father. The 2nd Duke of Goa was appointed Overseer of the Royal Treasury for King João III, and served as President of the Lisbon City Council, in 1569. He built the Casa dos Bicos in Lisbon, and the Palacio da Bacalhoa in Azeitão, considered to be two of the finest Renaissance buildings in Portugal. When he died in 1581, the ducal title became extinct—though it was curiously resurrected by a descendant (through his daughter) many centuries later.

Casa dos Biscos in Lisbon
Palacio da Bacalhoa in Azeitão, south of Lisbon

In 1886, João Afonso da Costa de Sousa de Macedo, 2nd Conde de Mesquitela, King of Arms of the Royal Household (senior herald), and 12th Armeiro mor (Chief Armourer) of Portugal, was created Duke of Albuquerque by King Luis I. His father the first Count had been recognised as the lineal heir to the family name Alburquerque, bearer of the arms of that house (and those of Costa, Sousa and Macedo), and in particular owner of the farm and residence at Bacalhoa. One of the curious Sousa de Macedo titles he held was Baron of Mullingar, in the peerage of Ireland, a title granted by King Charles II to Antonio de Sousa, a former Portuguese ambassador to England, in 1661. This new Duke of Albuquerque was a successful diplomat, and had been asked to be Minister of Foreign Affairs in 1870, and promised a dukedom at that time, but he turned both offers down. Finally accepting the ducal title in 1886, he died soon after in 1890. The title was considered to have been created for his lifetime only, but his brother and heir sometimes claimed the title Duke of Albuquerque, and so did some of his heirs in the 20th century.

João Afonso da Costa de Sousa de Macedo, 2nd Count of Mesquitela, Duke of Albuquerque

Back in the 16th century, there remained others who used the name Albuquerque, and spread it across the Portuguese empire. Some were descendants of Braz’s sister, who married into the House of Manoel (another illegitimate line of the House of Portugal) and were colonial administrators in India well into the late 17th century. Another fascinating figure is a cousin, Brites de Albuquerque, who followed her husband, Duarte Coelho, west across the Atlantic Ocean, in 1534 when he was appointed 1st Captain of Pernambuco, one of the divisions of the new colony of Brazil. Pernambuco, also known as ‘New Lusitania’, soon became one of the most lucrative Portuguese colonies in the Americas due to the production of sugar. Coelho founded a colonial capital, Olinda, and a port (today’s city of Recife), but had to travel back to Portugal several times to get financial backing from Portuguese merchants. On one of these trips, in 1554, he died, and his wife Brites simply took over running the colony, known as the ‘Captaincy’. This was a proprietary appointment, so Brites (known in Brazilian history as ‘Captoa’—the Lady Captain), maintained it for her sons until they came of age, and even after, as they returned to Portugal to serve in its wars in the 1570s. Altogether, she governed Pernambuco—quite effectively by all accounts—for over thirty years, until her death in 1584. She is considered to be the first female ruler of a European colony in the Americas. Her grandsons continued to be proprietary Captains of Pernambuco: Matias de Albuquerque (who took his grandmother’s surname, not Coelho) unsuccessfully defended the colony against the Dutch in 1634, and was briefly imprisoned back in Lisbon. When Portugal proclaimed its independence from Spain in 1640 under João IV, he was released and rallied to the cause; he defeated the Spanish at the Battle of Montijo, 1644, and was rewarded with a new title, Count of Alegrete. His brother Duarte, however, seems to have stayed loyal to Philip IV of Spain, and was created Marques de Basto and Vizconde de Pernambuco, though the colony remained in Dutch hands (not fully expelled until 1654). He died in 1658, in Spain, the last of his line.

an ancient map of Brazil, with Pernambuco at the easternmost point

Other interesting members of this branch of the family include Brites de Albuquerque’s brother, Jeronimo, who married a local indigenous princess, Muira-Ubi, a daughter of one of the Tabajara kings, who apparently saved his life, Pocahontas style, though like the story of Pocahontas, this is probably a romanticised version of the truth. She converted to Christianity and took the name Maria do Espirito Santo Arcoverde, but in true gallant colonialist style, he left her to marry a ‘proper’ Portuguese noblewoman, Felipa de Melo, in 1562. Apparently, Jeronimo de Albuquerque is remembered as the ‘father of Brazil’ since he left so many descendants with his surname. Another member of this branch of the family was Matias de Albuquerque, Captain of Hormuz, and Viceroy of Portuguese India, 1591-97.

By this point, the actual town and castle of Alburquerque in Extremadura was owned by the House of La Cueva, who had been propelled to the highest ranks of the nobility in just one generation due to royal favour. The family originally were minor nobles and royal officials in the town of Úbeda, near Jaén in Andalusia. Diego Fernández de la Cueva (d. 1473) held several administrative offices here and in other towns in the southeast, and became both a banker and a confidant of the king, Enrique IV. Towards the end of his career, he was rewarded with the title Viscount of Huelma (a nearby town). Before this, his family was honoured by the King’s request that his second son, Beltrán, serve as a page in the royal household. The King and Beltrán became very close, and the favourite was loaded down with gifts. The two friends were so close that some later historians accused them of homosexuality. These historians were supporters of the regime of Enrique’s half-sister, Queen Isabella, and you know what they say about history being written by the winners. The story goes that the King, so far unable to produce an heir, asked his friend to do the job: in 1462, Queen Juana of Portugal gave birth to a girl, the Infanta Juana. Beltrán was that same year married off to Mencia de Mendoza y Luna, the daughter of one of the richest men in the Kingdom, the Duke del Infantado, and niece of the powerful Cardinal Mendoza. This was certainly big step up for the relatively unknown Casa de la Cueva, and it is easy to see how this might be seen as ‘payment’ for services rendered. Beltrán was appointed head of the royal household, and some have called him an early example of a valido, or chief royal favourite.

a portrait of the 1st Duke of Alburquerque from the 19th century

Beltrán de la Cueva was also raised in rank one higher than his father, and created Count of Ledesma, a town and medieval castle in the west of Castile, near Salamanca. This wasn’t too far from the Portuguese border, nor was the town of Alburquerque, further to the south, given to Beltrán as a dukedom in 1464. At the same time he was given the important fortified towns of Roa and Cuéllar, both in Castile, not too far from the old court city of Valladolid. The new Duke of Alburquerque set about rebuilding and expanding all of these properties, but it was Cuéllar in particular that became the family’s main residence for the next two centuries.

The Castle of the Dukes of Alburquerque at Cuéllar

The Castle at Cuéllar, a walled town in the Province of Segovia, was built in the 13th century. It was built as a royal castle, then given to the same earlier royal favourite we’ve seen before, Alvaro de Luna, then was confiscated and given by Juan II to his daughter, the Infanta Isabella, in 1453. When Enrique IV took it from his half-sister to give to his favourite, Beltrán, this really irked her. Nevertheless, she confirmed the gift to the La Cueva family in 1475. The castle’s structure, and the gardens behind it, were expanded into a palace fit for a duke in the 16th century, and became known as the Palace of the Dukes of Alburquerque. In the 17th century, most great aristocrats relocated their permanent residences in Madrid to be closer to the court, but Cuéllar remained the family’s favoured summer residence. It was gradually abandoned in the 19th century, after being occupied by French and then British troops during the Peninsular War. In the 20th century it was used as a political prison and a sanatorium, but more recently it happily opened to the public as a museum.

In 1467, the 1st Duke of Alburquerque fought for Enrique IV against rebels supporting a coup attempt by the King’s younger half-brother, the Infant Alfonso. Again he was rewarded, with another title, Count of Huelma, 1474. But the next year, the King died, and, against expectations, Alburquerque rallied to the cause of Isabella to succeed him—against the claims of his own reputed daughter, Juana (now called ‘la Beltraneja’, the little Beltrán). The new Queen of Castile thus confirmed his possession of Alburquerque, Ledesma and Huelma, and following the War of Castilian Succession (1475-79), he served her (and her husband, Ferdinand of Aragon), for the next decade, notably in the campaigns to conquer the Kingdom of Granada. He died the year that city was taken, 1492, and was buried in the Franciscan convent in the town of Cuéllar. This church became the sepulchre for the family for several generations, and though the buildings were destroyed in later wars, several of its sculpted treasures are now on display in the museum of the Hispanic Society in New York City. One of these clearly displays the coat of arms of the La Cueva family, now raised to the level of the grandees of Spain: on the left side of the altar, their arms bear a distinctive wyvern (a two legged winged dragon; in some it is golden, but in other versions it is green; and in some it is emerging from a rock or mountainside); the 1st Duke’s arms also bore small versions of the arms of the Mendozas (his wife’s family) in the border around the edges.

the ruins of the Franciscan monastery at Cuellar
the Alburquerque tombs in the Hispanic Society, New York
the arms of the dukes of Alburquerque as seen in the stalls for the Order of the Golden Fleece in Flanders (this one for the 3rd Duke in the 16th century)

Other family members were also put into prominent positions, notably the Duke’s younger brothers, Gutierre (Bishop of Palencia, 1461), and Diego (Governor of Cartegena, 1460). In 1476, Beltrán married as his second wife, a daughter of the 1st Duke of Alba—thus really securing his family’s place at the top of the aristocratic hierarchy—and at the same time his son married his new step-mother’s sister. Best make these new marital links firm! A third marriage was made in 1482 to the widowed Duchess of Escalona, his first wife’s cousin, Maria de Velasco y Mendoza, daughter of the former Grand Chamberlain of Enrique IV—when she was widowed for a second time, Queen Isabella created her Duchess of Roa, 1492, just for herself, and although the castle and lordship of Roa passed to her sons (see below), this dukedom did not (and some recent historians have argued that there never was an actual duchy of Roa, it was just a title of honour given to a widow who was already of ducal rank).

The 2nd Duke of Alburquerque, Francisco, is not known for very much, but did serve the first Habsburg king, Carlos I (aka, Emperor Charles V) in his various campaigns, and in 1520 was amongst the first to be promoted to the new rank of ‘Grandee of Spain’. He continued to develop the various castles given to his father, including the Castle of Colmenar, which was renamed Mombeltrán (Monte Beltrán), near the city of Avila in western Castile. Here he fashioned a gallery, a newish architectural feature coming to Spain from Italian Renaissance influence—a place to promenade and hang family portraits.

The Castle of Mombeltran

The 2nd Duke had nine children, who all (boys and girls) served in the household or the armies of the Charles V in some capacity or another. The two eldest, the 3rd Duke (after 1526), Beltrán, and Luis in particular, fought both at home and abroad (Luis especially, at the siege of Vienna by the Turks in 1526; he also held a court position as Captain of the Guard). The 3rd Duke had impressed Charles V in his early campaigns against the French in Navarre (the French were trying to liberate that Kingdom, recently conquered by the Spanish), so he was named Captain-General of the Spanish Army defending the northern frontiers, 1522, and later Viceroy and Captain-General of Aragon. He also led some diplomatic missions abroad, where he met King Henry VIII, and the English king, also impressed with his leadership skills, invited him to London, fitted him out with a large household, and appointed him Generalissimo of the English Armies in 1544 in the campaigns to try to capture Boulogne. Later in life the Duke would be Viceroy of Navarre, 1552-60. Meanwhile, the 3rd Duke’s brother, Bartolomé, became a prelate, and an influential priest in Rome, friend to Loyola and patron of the first Jesuit church in Rome in 1544. That year he became a cardinal. He remained in Rome for the rest of his career, except for a brief stint as Viceroy of Naples, from October to June, 1558/59.

Cardinal Bartolome de la Cueva

In the next generation, the 3rd Duke’s eldest son was already in military service in the lifetime of his father, and was created Marques of Cuéllar in his own right in 1530. He fought in campaigns in North Africa, then succeeded his father in 1560, but was only 4th Duke for three years, and was succeeded by his brother Gabriel, who was also a soldier, notably leading the defence of the North African city of Oran against the Ottomans in 1556. As 5th Duke of Alburquerque, he was Viceroy of Navarre in 1560, then Governor of Milan—a key position in the Spanish Monarchy—from 1564 until his death in 1571. He left behind this amazing portrait, by Moroni, from about 1560.

Gabriel de la Cueva, 5th Duke of Alburquerque

But the 5th Duke also left behind a daughter, Maria, who tried to claim the family lands and titles. After a family scuffle, the courts awarded these to her first cousin, Beltrán III de la Cueva, who in proper early modern aristocratic style, married his other cousin, the daughter of the 4th Duke, so there wouldn’t be any other rival claims to the ducal title, castles and estates. He too, as 6th Duke, would be Viceroy of Aragon, 1599 to 1602. And so too did his son the 7th Duke hold the most senior government positions in the Spanish Monarchy: Viceroy of Catalonia, 1615-19; Viceroy of Sicily, 1627-32; President of the Council of Italy, 1630, and so on. In Catalonia in particular he was known as a rigorous administrator, though perhaps too rigorous, suppressing disorder, but also significant freedoms.

Four more sons followed as the 17th century matured (three of them with the colourful and Christmassy names of Gaspar, Melchor and Baltasar). The eldest, Francisco, became the 8th Duke of Alburquerque in 1637, while the second and third sons forged careers in the army and navy, respectively. The 4th son, Baltasar, Count of Castellar by marriage, was much later in life appointed Viceroy of Peru (1674-78)—he spent much of his time in South America sending expeditions south along the Pacific coast to secure it from English and Dutch incursions. He also put down an indigenous revolt led by a self-proclaimed Inca prince. But this was not the first time the La Cueva family became involved in the affairs of the New World. One female cousin (perhaps two) had accompanied her husband as governor to the Yucatan in Mexico. The 8th Duke of Albuquerque himself became Viceroy of New Spain, 1653-60. His time in government was marked by a serious attempt to defend the eastern coasts of Mexico during war with England, and more of an effort to increase trade with the Philippines and Asia. He pushed for the completion of the Cathedral in Mexico City. When he returned to Spain, he was named Ambassador Extraordinary to the Imperial Court in Vienna, accompanying the Infanta Margarita Teresa to her marriage to Emperor Leopold in 1666. He then went south, and was Viceroy of Sicily, 1668-70, and finally Mayordomo mayor (head of the household) of King Carlos II, 1674-76. He had only a daughter, who, once again, married her uncle, Melchor de la Cueva, who succeeded as 9th Duke, but only for 10 years, dying in 1686.

the 8th Duke of Alburquerque

The real heir of the 8th Duke and previous Viceroy of New Spain in the La Cueva family, was his nephew, Francisco, 10th Duke of Alburquerque. His early years were spent in the navy, as Captain-General of Granada and the coasts of Andalusia. When Carlos II left the Spanish Monarchy to the French prince, Philip of Anjou, in 1700, the Duke was an immediate supporter of the new Bourbon regime, and was rewarded by an appointment to his uncle’s old post as Viceroy of New Spain in 1702. He repressed any lingering loyalty to the Habsburg Dynasty in Mexico and raised lots of money to send back to Spain in support of the Bourbon cause in the War of Spanish Succession. He also brought a new Bourbon magnificence (in contrast to more sombre Habsburg style) to the viceregal court in Mexico City. Alburquerque also strengthened the navy and coastal defences (once again against English attacks), and continued to expand Spain’s colonial reach northwards into North America—he supported Jesuit missions to California, and in 1706 approved a new settlement, which was named after him, in the province of Santa Fe de Nuevo Mexico (ie Albuquerque, New Mexico). The Viceroy also established another new northern outpost, named for his family’s spiritual home back in Spain, San Francisco de Cuéllar, in 1709 (today known as Chihuahua). But of course not everything can be painted as rosy successful history; his regime also brutally suppressed a rebellion by the Pima Indians in this area of northern Mexico. He was recalled to Spain in 1711 and served at court as Gentleman of the Chamber of King Philip V until his death in 1724.

the 11th Duke of Alburquerque, Viceroy of New Spain

The 11th Duke of Alburquerque stayed much closer to the royal court in Madrid. In 1742, he was appointed Caballerizo mayor (first equerry) of Prince Ferdinand, and stayed in this role once the prince became King Ferdinand VI in 1746. The Duke died in 1757, leaving behind only a daughter, whose husband tried to claim the ducal succession after her death in 1762 for their son (but he too died young, in 1779); and a sister, the Marquesa de los Balbases, whose heirs ultimately inherited the dukedom, but not yet.

As noted above, by the 17th century, most of the Spanish grandees made their permanent base in Madrid to be closer to the court. Several of these dukes of Alburquerque lived in the Royal Palace, the Alcázar of Madrid, as their offices required constant attendance on the king or the queen. There is a suggestion that there was an old residence from the 16th century on the Calle Mayor, at the intersection of Calle de Bailén, which would put it at about the location of the Palace of the Duke of Uceda, built in 1613, which was later converted into the buildings of the Council of State (which it still is). In 1645, the 8th Duke acquired by marriage (I think) a new residence near the Royal Monastery of La Encarnación, a few streets northeast of the royal palace. He had married the heiress of Lope Diez de Armendáriz, 1st Marques de Cadreita (1617), born in Peru and later another Viceroy of New Spain (1635-40), whose estates were in Navarre. The 8th Duchess (Juana) served as a lady-in-waiting in the households of queens Isabel, Maria Luisa and Maria Ana, so needed a residence close to the court.

the 8th Duke, his wife Juana, and their daughter

The La Cueva family also possessed a house in Hortaleza, at the time a ‘garden village’ on the outskirts of Madrid (now one of the city’s districts), where the 10th Duke died. The 11th Duke was born in the house near La Encarnación, but spent much of his time in Hortaleza, in a garden residence known as the ‘Palacio de Buenavista’.

the Palacio de Buenavista in Hortaleza today, converted into a convent in the 19th century

After the death of the 11th Duke in 1757, the inheritance was split up. The Ducal title, being a male-preference title, passed to the next male heir, the Count of Siruela. The County of Siruela, in Extremadura, was created in 1470, and passed by marriage to a younger son (the son of the Duchess of Roa, above) in the early 16th century. The Counts of Siruela (using the compound surname Velasco de la Cueva) were a mid-level court family in the succeeding centuries. The 12th Duke of Alburquerque was a Spanish field marshal and died only a few years after he had successfully claimed the title. His son, Miguel, not only inherited the main La Cueva titles (Alburquerque, Cuéllar, Ledesma and Huelma), but also the Marquisate of La Mina (1681), with lands near Seville, created in 1681 for his Guzmán-Dávalos ancestors. He was a courtier, Captain of the Royal Guards Halberdiers and Gentleman of the Chamber of Carlos III and Carlos IV. In 1792-95, as tensions were heating up along the northern border with Revolutionary France, Alburquerque was appointed to an important role as Captain-General of Aragon. He acquired a new palace in Madrid in about 1765, on the Calle de Santa Isabel, a new construction built in the gardens in the old convent of that name (near today’s Atocha Station); then expanded and remodelled it in the 1790s. By the 19th century, it had passed out of the family and was possessed by the Duke of Fernán-Núñez, by which name the palace is known today.

Palace of the Dukes of Alburquerque in Madrid, today known as the Palace of the Dukes of Fernán-Núñez

The 13th Duke died in 1803, and was succeeded by his son, José Maria, a soldier who had been rapidly promoted in the 1790s, a brigadier by age 19. In 1808, as Spanish patriots began to fight back against Napoleonic occupation, the 14th Duke of Alburquerque was appointed Commander of the Army of Castile, then promoted to field marshal then lieutenant-general by 1810, at the head of the Army of Extremadura. He secured the city of Cadiz as a base for the Regency Government (nominally supporting the exiled King Ferdinand VII, but really trying to create its own liberal constitution for a renewed Spain), and was named governor of that city, then Captain-General of Andalusia and President of the Junta of Cadiz (the temporary ruling royalist government). But he soon clashed with others on the Junta, and was sent to London as its ambassador—this was a useful posting as he had made lots of close associations with British army officers helping to liberate Spain, including the Duke of Wellington. But he died soon after, still in London, where he was given a funeral with honours in Westminster Abbey.

the 14th Duke of Alburquerque

With the death of the 14th Duke of Alburquerque in 1811, without a legitimate male heir, the succession was once again contested, for nearly 20 years. His sister was able to claim the successions to Siruela and La Mina, but not Alburquerque. There had been other lines of the House of La Cueva. The senior line (from all the way back in the 15th century, the elder brother of the first Beltrán), were created Marques of Bedmar in 1614, but went extinct in the male line in 1723; the last of these was a significant figure in the Spanish Monarchy: Isidro, 5th Marques de Bedmar, Supreme Commander of the Army in the Spanish Netherlands from 1697, and interim Governor-General of the Low Countries, 1701-04 (a position usually reserved for nobles or princes of much higher rank), and finally Viceroy of Sicily, 1705-07, and Minister of War, 1709. A cadet branch in the 16th century were created Marques of La Adrada (1570), but was extinct by the end of the century. The Line of Bedmar did have its own cadet branch, the counts of Guadiana (who maintained a palace back in the old dynastic hometown of Úbeda), and they continued into the 19th century, so their claims were amongst those that muddied the waters in the Alburquerque succession. It took the courts until 1830 to make a full settlement, but already in 1811 Manuel Miguel Osorio Spinola de la Cueva was calling himself the 15th Duke of Alburquerque. He died before the ruling, so sometimes the numbering systems are off from this point. Manuel Miguel, of the House of Osorio, was already an interesting mixture of two noble lines, from his maternal grandparents, Ana Catalina de la Cueva, sister of the 11th Duke, and her husband Ambrosio Spinola, 5th Marques de los Balbases and 5th Duke of Sesto; but also from his father, the 14th Marques de Alcañices (Osorio). What’s more, he married the heiress of the Duke of Algete (cr. 1728), so this title (and its estates, just north of Madrid) passed to his son as well when he finally formally succeeded as 15th Duke of Alburquerque in 1830.

The dukes of Alburquerque in the 19th century were thus a conglomerate of Spanish (and Italian) houses. The Osorios were an old noble family from León. Their main titles were the marquisate of Astorga and the county of Altamira, but they also inherited the duchy of Medina de los Torres (so they will get a separate blog post). Their arms, two red wolves on gold, were now paired with those of La Cueva. The senior line of the Osorios had inherited in 1741 the marquisate of Alcañices (in Zamora Province, created 1533 for the Enríquez de Almansa). The house of Spinola was originally from Genoa, but had settled in Spain after the creation of their marquisate of Los Balbases, 1621, in Burgos Province—they also retained significant lands granted to them by the King of Spain in the Kingdom of Naples, notably the Duchy of Sesto, 1612 (northwest of the city of Naples). With these added dynastic lines came significant new properties in and around Madrid. While the house in Hortaleza passed out of the family, as did the palace in Madrid near Atocha, an impressive new residence was gained:  the Palacio del Marques de Alcañices (or Palacio de Sesto). This was located in a prominent place on a corner where the Calle de Alcalá intersects the Paseo del Prado, two of the grand boulevards developed on the eastern edge of the old city in the reign of Carlos III. The palace was built sometime in the late 17th century, and purchased by the Osorios in the late 18th century; they would later sell it in 1882, and the building would be demolished to make way for the Bank of Spain.

a painting of the Royal Palace of Buen Retiro in the 17th century ,with the grand promenade that today leads to the Prado (to the right), with (I think) the Palacio del Marques de Alcañices at the bottom
a later illustration of the Palace of the Marques de Alcañices

The 15th Duke of Alburquerque, also Duke of Sesto and Duke of Algete, was a major horse breeder, and firmly established his family as part of the Spanish ‘horsey set’, which they still are today. He was also a courtier, as Mayordomo mayor for Prince-Consort Francisco de Asis (husband of Queen Isabel II), and then Ayo (governor) for their son Prince Alfonso after his birth in 1857. The Duke died in 1866, leaving this role to his son, known already as the Duke of Sesto (he was also called ‘Pepe Osorio’ or ‘Pepe Alcañices’), one of the most interesting characters in royalist circles of 19th-century Spain.

José Osorio, Duke of Sesto (later 16th Duke of Alburquerque)

José Osorio y Silva, 16th Duke of Alburquerque, had already started to establish his political name as Duke of Sesto, when he was Alcalde (mayor) of Madrid, 1857-64. After his father’s death he took over the fatherly role to the Prince of Asturias, as his Mayordomo and Gentleman of the Chamber—he would become one of Alfonso’s closest advisors when he later became king, and appropriately, Director of the Royal Stud Farm and the King’s Montero Mayor (Master of the Hunt). Across his long life he would be director of a number of horse-related government offices or public societies, for example, he was President of the National Society for the Promotion of Horse Breeding (founded by his father), from 1886 to his death in 1909.

Sesto with the young King Alfonso XII

But it is as a chief supporter of the Bourbons that Alburquerque made his mark. Isabel II was forced to give up the throne in 1868, and went into exile in France. The Duke of Alburquerque purchased a palace for her in Paris, renamed the Palacio Castilla (later better known as the very grand Hotel Majestic), and lent the royal family the use of his house at the fashionable seaside town of Deauville. In 1870 he persuaded the Queen to formally abdicate the throne in favour of young Alfonso (whose education he’d been put in charge of), in hopes for a better chance at a restoration. The Duke spent millions in his efforts on behalf of the Bourbons, and was active in rallying the nobility of Spain to the Borbonista cause. His wife too was active in this regard: Princess Sofia Troubetskoy, formerly married to the Duc de Morny (half-brother of Napoleon III)—and rumoured to be the love-child of Tsar Nicholas I—was one of the most beautiful, cosmopolitan and fashionable women in Madrid. In 1871, she led the ‘Rebellion of the Mantillas’, a movement which aimed at alienating the newly imposed King Amedeo of Savoy and his wife in Madrid society. Their home on the Calle de Alcalá became the main gathering place for ‘Alfonsistas’. The Duchess was also reputedly the first to bring Christmas trees to Spain…

Princess Sophia Troubetskoy as a young woman

After a brief republic, Alfonso XII was indeed restored in December 1874, and the Duke of Alburquerque was appointed Jefe Superior of the Royal Palace, basically head of the royal establishment. After Alfonso XII’s early death in 1885, he tried to retire, or at least to retreat to running only the Royal Stud Farm, but was convinced to stay on as mayordomo for the young royal princesses, and was then appointed Gentleman of the Chamber to the new king, Alfonso XIII, born in the Spring of 1886. But he increasingly clashed with the Queen Mother, Maria Christina of Austria, who accused him of stealing money from the royal treasury—once again in this story we see the pretty poor extent of royal gratitude towards favourites! So he donated more of his personal wealth to her, including the Duchy of Sesto and other lands in Italy (1889). He retired from court—though continued to have a role in public affairs, as Spanish representative to various international expos, like that in Paris of 1900. He had sold the Palace on the Calle de Alcalá, and died in a palace a bit to the north, on the Paseo de Recoletos, a grand building located across that broad avenue from the National Library of Spain. Built for the Duke of Sesto in 1865, it would remain the family residence until sold to the General Council of Lawyers in the 1990s.

the Palace of the Duke of Alburquerque on Paseo de Recoletos, Madrid

The 16th Duke of Alburquerque and 9th Duke of Sesto left his titles by a will to his great-nephew, Miguel Osorio. He was appointed one of the ‘Gentilhombres Grandes de España’, the more exclusive rank of Gentleman of the Chamber, reserved for only the highest ranking noblemen and those closest to the King. He was briefly elected deputy to the Cortes for Alcañices in the 1920s, but otherwise kept a fairly low profile. His son, the 18th Duke, another Beltrán, was head of the household of the Count of Barcelona (the exiled head of the royal family) from 1954 to that prince’s death in 1993 (himself dying a year later). His fame came from not from his service to the Bourbons, but from the other great family passion: equestrianism. He was considered one of the best horsemen in Europe, competing in two Olympics (Helsinki 1952 and Rome 1960), and later at several Grand National events in England. Later Alburquerque was a trainer, and, like his predecessors, President of the Society for the Promotion of Horse Breeding in Spain (1985-88). In his obituary he was referred to as ‘the last Spanish cavalier’.

Beltran Alfonso Osorio y Diez de Rivera, 18th Duke Of Alburquerque and the racehorse ‘Poseidon’.

The 20th-century dukes continued to live in the Palacio del Duque de Alburquerque on Paseo de Recoletos. But today’s Duke, the 19th (Juan Miguel, born 1958) lives mostly at his farm El Soto de Mozanaque, where he—unsurprisingly—tends horses. This farm, in Algete, about 30 km northeast of Madrid, was built by the 1st Duke of Algete as a hunting lodge in the early 18th century. The 19th Duke of Alburquerque has restored it and opened it up for use for weddings and other events.

El Soto de Mozanaque
La Cueva de Alburquerque

Meet the Actons, English barons and Neapolitan princes

In the 18th century, political boundaries and national identities were a bit more fluid than they became in the 19th and 20th centuries. A person of great talent could move around the European continent and acquire position and status in a land very different from his or her place of origin. Such is the interesting case of Sir John Acton, one of the great figures of the history of the Kingdom of Naples in the late 18th century and the era of Napoleon, Nelson and the famous beauty Emma Hamilton. Acton established a dynasty that persists in southern Italy today, picking up a princely title in the 20th century, and today occupying one of the finest palazzi in Naples, Cellammare.

Palazzo Cellammare, Naples, at its grandest, with extensive gardens in the heart of the city

English-speaking lovers of Italian history, like me, first came across the name Acton through the author and dilettante Sir Harold Acton, a prominent member of the Bright Young Things in 1920s London, who wrote deliciously gossip-filled books about the last of the Medici (1930) and the last of the Bourbons of Naples (1956 and 1961). When he died in 1994, he donated his villa outside Florence to New York University to encourage the study of Italian art and history.

Harold Acton, by Cecil Beaton, 1949 (National Portrait Gallery)

Harold Acton was a very junior member of an Anglo-Italian family of baronets and later barons. But one of his cousins was granted use of his mother’s princely title in the 1930s, and his heirs now bear the title Prince of Leporano and Duke of Spezzano, thus bringing them into the sphere of this blogsite.

There are early traces of a landowning family in Shropshire in the 13th century, who held local offices and assumed the name ‘de Acton’. There’s a village with this name (possibly from ‘oak town’) in the southwest part of that county, not far from the Welsh borders. But their seat became Aldenham Park, a short distance to the northeast, closer to the county town of Shrewsbury (though there are also nearby villages of Acton Burnell and Acton Round), and not far from Wenlock Edge. Their local constituency was Bridgnorth, and numerous Actons were Members of Parliament from there across the centuries.

the Acton coat-of-arms

The fortified manor house at Aldenham was acquired by the family in 1456, and replaced by a more modern country house in the 17th century then augmented several times in the 18th and 19th centuries, until it was let out then sold by the mid-20th century. It remains in private hands today.

Aldenham Park, Shropshire

At the start of the 17th century, there were two Acton cousins: Walter held the estate of Aldenham, while William, whose father had become a merchant in London, rose to the position of Sheriff of London in 1628, and in 1629 was created a baronet. In September 1640, he was elected Lord Mayor of London, but his election was nullified by Parliament only a month later, as he was seen as too royalist. He died without a male heir in 1651. By that time, Walter’s equally royalist son, Edward, had himself been created a baronet, for Aldenham (1643). Sir Edward Acton was also MP for Bridgnorth and Colonel in the Regiment of Royalist Dragoons

The Baronets Acton continued in succession, usually sitting in Parliament for Bridgnorth. They added a smaller, but more attractive (I think) cottage at Acton Round, used for the heir or for dowagers, but mostly abandoned by the 19th century (and now owned privately by a different family).

Acton Round

The 5th Baronet died in 1791 with no male heir, so the title passed to his cousin, the family’s most famous member: Sir John Acton. John had been born in Besançon, France, where his father, a physician, had settled, the hometown of his wife’s family. His uncle John was a commander in the Tuscan navy, and young John joined him in this service and saw action in the 1770s in battles against the Barbary states in North Africa. By 1775 he was a commander, and led the Tuscan contingent in a (fairly disastrous) Spanish raid against Algiers. Tuscany was at this time governed by Grand Duke Leopold of Lorraine, whose brother was the Holy Roman Emperor, and whose sister, Maria Carolina, was the Queen of Naples. In 1775, the Queen began to assert her authority in the Kingdom—she was well educated and her husband, King Ferdinand IV, was not … embarrassingly so—and in 1778 she asked her brother to send Acton to Naples to re-organise its royal navy. He was rapidly promoted and soon named Commander-in-Chief of both the Army and the Navy, and Minister of the Marine Forces, and by the end of the next decade, both services were in a much better state. But Acton’s influence was much broader—together with the English ambassador, Sir William Hamilton, he aimed to shift Neapolitan diplomatic policies away from Spain and France (the other two Bourbon monarchies), and more towards Austria and its ally, Great Britain. His government portfolio also expanded: in 1780 he was Minister for War, and soon thereafter Minister of Commerce—and by 1789, he was First Secretary of State, essentially Prime Minister.

Sir John Acton, Prime Minster of the Kingdom of Naples

Acton was not universally loved, sharply raising taxes to pay for this new navy, and attempting to bring Naples and Sicily into the more Enlightened spirit of the age in terms of government reform and limits to the Church. The high aristocracy, who had always completely dominated Neapolitan affairs, disliked his relatively low birth, and naturally accusations flew about him and the Queen being lovers. They disliked the influence the British admiral, Horatio Nelson, had over the Neapolitan fleet (and the influence of his lover, Hamilton’s wife Emma, over the Queen). But Nelson’s defeat of the French Mediterranean fleet in 1798 temporarily saved Naples from invasion. A few months later, however, Nelson transported the King and Queen, Acton, and the Hamiltons, to the Kingdom’s second capital, Palermo, in Sicily. The French established a republic in Naples (the Parthenopean Republic), from January to June 1799, after which Acton (now Foreign Minster too) re-established royal authority in Naples with a severely authoritarian and repressive regime. In 1804, again feeling threatened by Napoleon, the King was convinced to sack Acton, sending him to Sicily and giving him a duchy (Modica, which he later renounced). He was soon recalled, but when the French armies invaded Naples, he and the royal family fled once more to Palermo, where Sir John died in 1811.

the monument to Acton in Palermo

Late in life, Sir John Acton decided to found a dynasty. At age 63 he married his 13 year-old niece Mary Ann Acton, daughter of his brother Charles, and they swiftly had three children: Ferdinand, Charles and Elizabeth. Sir John had two brothers, Charles and Philip, who both also made careers in the Neapolitan military. Charles founded the junior branch of the family, to which we will return later.

The eldest son, Ferdinand Acton, 7th Baronet, was known by his second name, Richard. Only a child when his father died, he was sent with his brother to be educated in England. He then returned to Naples in the 1820s, where he commissioned a magnificent neoclassical villa in the neighbourhood known as Chiaia, the fashionable ‘Neapolitan Riviera’ just west of the centre of the city. It still sits at the end of a magnificent garden; today known as the Villa Pignatelli, named for its owners since the 1860s (after having first been sold to the Rothschilds in 1841). Willed to the state in 1952, it today houses an art museum with a special focus on coaches and carriages.

Sir Ferdinand Richard Acton, 7th Baronet
Villa Pignatelli, Chiaia, Naples

In 1832, Sir Ferdinand Richard Acton, an English baronet, joined his family more firmly to the higher aristocracy of Europe by marriage to Baroness Marie-Louise von Dalberg, whose father had been the 1st Duc de Dalberg, a curious blend of German and Napoleonic aristocracy, nephew of the last Archbishop-Elector  of Mainz, who entered service of the French Empire, then represented Louis XVIII at the Congress of Vienna in 1814. Marie-Louise’s mother was a member of the very grand Genoese dynasty, Maria Pellegrina Brignole-Sale. As his wife was a grand heiress to the Dalberg lands in France and Germany, he soon added her surname to his own. Eventually, their son would also inherit one of the Brignole-Sale titles, Marchese of Groppoli, a formerly autonomous fief in the mountains between Liguria and Tuscany, with a crumbling castle up in the mountains.

Marie-Louise von Dalberg, Lady Acton, in a very early photograph

Sir John’s second son Charles, whose second name reflected the patron saint of Naples, Januarius, joined the Church at a young age and served as a Vice-Legate (deputy governor) in Bologna before being promoted Cardinal in 1842. He was very close to popes Pius VIII and Gregory XVI, and often served as a trusted go-between with other heads of state, and was offered higher posts like the archbishopric of Naples. Never of strong constitution, Cardinal Acton weakened and died in 1847, only 44 years old.

Charles, Cardinal Acton

His nephew, Sir John Dalberg-Acton, became the second most remembered member of the family, re-establishing his family’s prominence in Britain. Yet as heir to the Dalberg estates in the Rhineland, he was also Lord of Herrnsheim, a castle and park outside the city of Worms. Herrnsheim had been the seat of the hereditary chamberlains of the bishops of Worms (and adopted ‘Kämmerer von Worms’ as their surname until they changed it to von Dalberg). An ancient medieval castle was rebuilt in the 1460s, then again after a terrible fire in the early 18th century; it was renovated by the Duke of Dalberg in 1809, and again by his daughter, Lady Acton, in the 1830s-40s, notably adding a library in the ancient tower, with an amazing spiral cast-iron staircase—the first of its kind in Germany.

Schloss Herrnsheim, outside Worms
Circular library and staircase

Dalberg-Acton, 8th Baronet, sold Herrnsheim in 1883 (it today belongs to the city of Worms), and by then was also the 13th Marchese di Groppoli. But by this point, his career was firmly in England, where he had taken up the old family seat in Aldenham and was elected as MP for Bridgnorth (as usual) in 1865 (having previously held a seat representing Carlow in Ireland). He was a Liberal, an ardent supporter of Catholic emancipation and home rule in Ireland, and a friend and ally of Prime Minster William Gladstone. Gladstone urged Queen Victoria to raise him to the peerage, as Baron Acton, in 1869, in part to secure his alliance as he negotiated religious policy with Catholic Rome. Acton became known as a writer and historian, focusing on ideas about the compatibility of the ideals of freedom and traditional religion. He was the editor of the Catholic monthly The Rambler, and helped start the English Historical Review, one of the earliest and most prestigious academic journals, but he never published very much himself—his most famous quote comes from a letter he wrote to a colleague in 1887: ‘Power tends to corrupt, and absolute power corrupts absolutely.’ Having been denied entry to Cambridge University as a student, it must have been a great pleasure to be appointed late in life as Regius Professor of Modern History there in 1895. He died in 1902, and is buried at the residence of his wife’s Bavarian family, the counts von Arco.

John Dalberg-Acton, 1st Baron Acton

The 2nd Baron Acton, born in Germany, educated in England, with estates in Italy, naturally became a diplomat, with posts all over Germany, then serving as Britain’s first ambassador to independent Finland in 1919. He was a lord-in-waiting to both Edward VII and George V, and died relatively young in 1924. He had married another heiress, Dorothy Lyon, of Appleton Hall in Cheshire, so the next generation added another name to become Lyon-Dalberg-Acton. Appleton Hall is near Warrington, and became a school in the 1930s; it was demolished in the 1960s, but the estate is now part of the Bridgewater High School. The Acton barons continued to be involved in politics and the Catholic church for the rest of the 20th century. The family had moved to Southern Rhodesia in the 1940s (selling Aldenham), where they raised cattle. The 4th Baron, Richard, married a campaigner against white rule in Rhodesia, and briefly worked in the transitional regime of a newly independent Zimbabwe, clearly continuing his family’s traditional devotion to liberal democracy. But he left once the regime there became oppressive and took up his seat in the British House of Lords. He became an active Labour politician, and was created Baron Acton of Bridgnorth in 2000 to allow him to continue to sit in the House of Lords—whose hereditary nature he had worked to end. His brother Edward was Professor of Modern History specialising in the Russian Revolution at East Anglia University, and later its Vice-Chancellor, retiring in 2014. The current Baron Acton (and 17th Marchese di Groppoli) was born in the 1960s and is a farmer and author (of cookbooks) in Gloucestershire.

Richard, 4th Baron Acton (a portrait including a more famous portrait within it)

So there are several historians in this family, which leads us back to Sir Harold Acton and back to Italy.

The younger branch of the House of Acton was founded by Sir John’s younger brother Joseph, who also served in the Neapolitan navy. Like his nephew Ferdinand, he married into the higher European nobility, a noblewoman from Limburg (Baroness Berghe von Trips), as did his son, Charles (or Carlo), also a Neapolitan military commander, who married a French noblewoman from the House of Albon in Dauphiné. The European aristocracy of the early 19th century were trans-national in a way almost unimaginable today. Charles had thirteen children, so there are numerous branches of the Actons around today, in England, Italy and elsewhere. Two of his sons, Guglielmo and Ferdinando became admirals; both became Minster of the Marine of the newly united Kingdom of Italy (1870-72 and 1879-81), and in fact both married noble sisters in Naples. Their sister Laura married Marco Minghetti, one of the first Prime Ministers of united Italy (and going further, her daughter from a previous marriage married Prince von Bülow, Chancellor of the German Empire).

(Laura Acton Mighetti and Admiral Ferdinando Acton)

Of Ferdinando’s many children, the younger son, Amedeo, became (unsurprisingly) an admiral, and married the heiress of an old Neapolitan principality, Villa Santa Maria, so he was granted the use of the title himself, becoming the first Acton prince in 1926. The Princess’s older sister, Livia Giudice Caracciolo, had inherited her own Neapolitan principality, Leporano, though this title was not used by her husband, Alfredo Acton—yet another admiral—who was created Baron Acton in the Kingdom of Italy (1925). This was the year of his second appointment as Commander-in-Chief of the Italian Navy, having already held this post in 1919-21. He resigned the post once more in 1927 to become a Senator of the Kingdom of Italy, and died a few years later in 1934.

Barone Alfredo Acton, Commander-in-Chief of the Italian Navy

The Princess of Leporano came from a long line of Neapolitan aristocrats. The Caracciolo family had dominated politics in this region for centuries, claiming origins in the Byzantine nobility (as ‘Caracziolus’) who had implanted themselves in southern Italy by at least the 10th century. There were many, many branches (and the family will certainly have their own blog post), each with a duchy or a principality (or several). One branch added the name Giudice by marriage in 1722 to the heiress of Antonio del Giudice. This Neapolitan aristocrat is better known as the Prince of Cellamare, and was famous for his involvement in the ‘Cellamare Conspiracy’ as Spanish ambassador to France in 1718-19. Together with the Duke of Maine (Louis XIV’s illegitimate son), the plotters attempted to depose the Duke of Orléans and put Philip V of Spain in his place as Regent of France. Cellamare was arrested then sent home, and France soon declared war on Spain. The Prince returned to Naples where he set about expanding and beautifying his palazzo, one of the most prominent in Naples still today, the Palazzo Cellamare (often spelled Cellammare). This grand residence, on the boundary between the ancient city of Naples and its new suburb of Chiaia, rises high above the Via Chiaia, a very fashionable shopping street. It was built by one of the Carafa princes in the early 16th century, and following the death of the last member of that branch in 1689, it was taken over by the city, then sold to the Prince of Cellamare. In the 1720s, he built a new chapels and expanded the enclosed gardens that covered the hillside. In the later 18th century the palace was the home of the Prince of Francavilla (Michele Imperiali) who was a great art collector and host of Neapolitan high society. In the early 19th century, the palace hosted the collections of the royal family itself, who feared they might be looted by the French in the revolutionary era. A massive restoration project was started at the Palazzo Cellammare in 2021, notably re-opening a 1940s cinema, the ‘Metropolitan cine-theatre’, built in its underground foundations, and considered the largest cinema in Naples, with 3000 seats.

Palazzo Cellammare after its recent facelift

By the end of the 19th century, the head of the Giudice Carraciolo family was Prince of Cellamare, Prince of Villa Santa Maria, and Prince of Leporano—aside from Villa Santa Maria (in Abruzzo), these estates were based in Apulia (the ‘heel’ of the boot of Italy). Leporano, south of the city of Taranto, was originally elevated into a principality in 1624 for the Muscettola family (who also held the dukedom of Spezzano, in Calabria, the ‘toe’). The Castello Muscettola has origins in the 12th century, and was transformed from a defensive fortress to a residential palace in the 16th century, and passed to the Giudice Caracciolo family by marriage in the mid-19th century.

Castello Muscettola in Leporano, Apulia

Princess Livia, ‘Lady Acton’, died in 1963, so her principality of Leporano and her duchy of Spezzano passed to her eldest son, though he had been granted the use of these titles by King Victor Emmanuel III as early as 1933. Fernando Amedeo Acton, 12th Prince of Leporano, also inherited his aunt’s parts of the Palazzo Cellammare in Naples in 1969. His younger brother Francesco was a naval commander in World War II and was given his own barony by the King in 1940. Also known as an art historian and museum director, he helped restore and rehabilitate several museums in postwar Naples and was for many years director of the Filangieri museum, in the Palazzo Cuomo, a famous collection of artworks, coins and books.

the beautiful interior of the Filangieri Museum

Today the 13th Prince of Leporano, Giovanni Acton, unmarried, lives in the Palazzo Cellammare in Naples, while the rural estates are tended to by his sister Eleonora (given use of the title Duchess of Spezzano by the ex-king Umberto II in 1979), and her son, Francesco Taccone (son of the Marchese di Sitizano). A quick search on the internet reveals two very beautifully designed websites: one for the Leporano estates in Apulia for the production and sales of traditional olives and olive oils; and one for another estate in Calabria, the Borgo di Cannavá (another former Giudice Caracciolo property), which hosts a yoga retreat centre.

Eleonora Action, Duchess of Spezzano, and the Acton olive oil
the Acton arms at work in southern Italy

The author Sir Harold Acton’s roots in Naples were thus extensive. But he was born and raised in Florence. His father Arthur, an illegitimate cousin of Alfredo and Amedeo, was a British architect and art dealer. In 1896 he was in Chicago helping to design the Italianate features of the new buildings of the Illinois Trust and Savings Bank, and soon after married the Bank’s president’s daughter, Hortense Mitchell. With her father’s money, they purchased the Villa La Pietra, in the hills just north of Florence, in 1907. It had been built in the Renaissance, and owned for many centuries by the Capponi family (one of Florence’s major dynasties). The Actons laid out a formal Baroque Italian garden, filling it with almost two hundred statues, and brought together a valuable collection of artworks in the house itself.

Villa la Pietra, outside Florence

It was into this world that was born Harold, and his brother William, also known as one of the Bright Young Things in London, and specifically as a painter (but who died young in 1944). Harold was described in the 1930s as a ‘virile aesthete-dandy’, a close friend to Nancy Mitford and Evelyn Waugh, and one of the inspirations for the character of Anthony Blanche in Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited (published in 1945)—a character who is both very English and very foreign, and notably very Catholic, which Harold was. He was knighted in 1974 and died in 1994, leaving the Villa la Pietra to New York University. If ever a time machine is invented, this is definitely someone I would love to go back and enjoy a glass of sherry with.

Harold Acton as a dapper bright young thing

(images Wikimedia Commons)

Princes of Orange, Part II

At the end of Part I, in 1530 the Prince of Orange, Philibert de Chalon, left his possessions, including the principality of Orange in Provence, and lands in the Free County of Burgundy, to his sister’s son, René of Nassau, whose family–later called the House of Orange-Nassau, would dominate the history of the Low Countries for the next four centuries.

the arms of the modern Dutch royal family, with the ancient motto of the House of Chalon (Noordeinde Palace, The Hague)

The House of Nassau, while not as grand as the ruling dynasties of Bavaria or Saxony, had roots that went just as deep into the medieval history of the Holy Roman Empire. They emerged as lords of one of the strategic corridors along the Rhine valley, where the river Lahn enters the Rhine from the east, just a bit upriver from Koblenz. In about 1125 one of the local lords built a castle overlooking the river at a town called Nassau—later family legends said this was named for a Swabian chieftain, Nasua, who had fought against Caesar’s legions in about 56 BC. I’ve also seen the name taken apart as ‘Nasse Auen’ or ‘vast wet fields’, which perhaps related to the low-lying terrain in this particular bend of the Lahn. Whatever the case, an interesting fact about the castle at Nassau was that it always belonged to the entire dynasty collectively, no matter how many branches and sub-branches it divided into, across nearly six centuries. Each branch developed their own castle-seat, and Nassau ceased to serve as a residence by the 16th century, mostly falling to ruins in the 17th. Its five-sided bergfried, or central fighting tower, dates from the early 1300s, and was reconstructed, along with some other buildings, in the 1960s by the state of Rheinland-Pfalz, its modern owner.

Nassau Castle above the River Lahn, 17th-century engraving
Castle Nassau today (photo Fritz Geller-Grimm)

The lords of Nassau at first struggled to demonstrate their independence, finally shaking off the bishops of Worms as overlords by the middle of the 12th century, and taking the title ‘count’. They administered their own lands, collected taxes and tolls on the Rhine, and so forth. So eventually they were known as ‘princely counts’, to distinguish them from mere counts who were subject to greater lords. As with most German noble dynasties, the Nassauers divided almost immediately into several branches. The most significant split occurred in 1255 with the major division between the Walramians and the Ottonians. The elder branch, based primarily at Wiesbaden on the river Main across from Mainz, and at Weilburg, much further up the Lahn, eventually became dukes of a consolidated Duchy of Nassau in the early 19th century, and then grand dukes of a newly independent Luxembourg from 1890. Today’s grand ducal family in Luxembourg are still called the House of Nassau-Weilburg.

the county of Nassau in the 16th century (the Rhine is the heavy black line that runs through the map; here ‘Mayence’ is Mainz)

The younger line were based much further in from the Rhine, at the north-eastern extremities of the lands held by the House of Nassau, first at Siegen, and then at Dillenburg. The line of Nassau-Dillenburg was separate from about 1300; they constructed a new castle over the river Dill (replacing one made from wood with one made from stone). Its defences were greatly expanded in the 17th century, but were dismantled in the 18th. A new structure was built in the 1870s by a Dutch princess and named the Wilhelmsturm—today it is a museum of Orange-Nassau history, particularly devoted to William the Silent, who was born here in 1533.

Dillenburg in the 16th century
Dillenburg today, with the Wilhelmsturm

In 1405, Count Engelbert, third son of Count Johann I of Nassau-Dillenburg, married a significant heiress from a very different part of the Holy Roman Empire, Joanna van Polanen, from one of the leading families in the province of South Holland. Her inheritance included the lordship of Lek, named for the river Lek and estates east of Rotterdam in the Rhine delta, and the barony of Breda a few miles to the south in the province of Brabant. Breda is strategically located in the high ground between the estuaries of the Maas (Meuse) to the north and the Scheldt to the south. Its 12th-century fortress had been sold by the Duke of Brabant to the lords of Polanen in the 1350s, and it became the seat of the senior branch of the line of Nassau-Dillenburg in the first decades of the 15th century. They rebuilt the fortress as a renaissance palace in the 1530s, later expanded by William III in the later 17th century. It was given to the army by the Dutch royal family to serve as a military hospital in 1826.

Breda Castle, North Brabant (photo Johan Bakker)
Breda Castle, facing its moat (photo G. Lanting)

Engelbert of Nassau also inherited an even more impressive castle on the other side of the Low Countries, Castile Vianden, deep in the Ardennes, in the Duchy of Luxembourg. It is a very ancient castle, built by a dynasty of counts in about 1090, then rebuilt in Gothic style in the mid-1200s. The last heiress of the original line of counts of Vianden willed it to her cousin Engelbert in 1417 and it became an alternative seat for his family. A later member of the House of Orange-Nassau, Moritz, remodelled it again in the 1620s, now in a renaissance style. In 1820 it was sold by King William I of the Netherlands to a local merchant, who dismantled much of it for parts, until the near-ruin was repurchased and restored by the Dutch royal family as the fashion for Gothic castles came once more into vogue. In 1890, Vianden passed to the House of Nassau-Weilburg with the rest of Luxembourg, and it remained one of the grand ducal residences until ceded to the state in 1977.

Vianden Castle, Luxembourg (photo Jeff Croisé)

Engelbert’s son, Count Johann IV, became firmly embroiled in Burgundian politics and society in the Low Countries. He occupied a prominent townhouse in Brussels, later known as Nassau Palace, on the hilltop near the Duke of Burgundy’s residence, the Coudenberg. He also had a residence in Mechelen, and in his various lordships spread all over the Low Countries. He expanded his control over the Barony of Breda by removing it from vassalage to Antwerp, making it instead a direct fief of the duke of Burgundy (in his capacity as duke of Brabant). In 1440 he married yet another heiress, Mary van Looz, whose inheritance included lands in the prince-bishopric of Liège as well as claims to the important duchy of Jülich in the Rhineland (though these were later denied by Imperial decision of 1499).

Hotel de Nassau, Brussels, painted in 1658

Engelbert II, Count of Nassau-Breda and Count of Vianden, entered into service of the Duke of Burgundy and became a commander of his troops in the 1470s, leader of his Privy Council, and a knight of the exclusive Order of the Golden Fleece. Moving smoothly into the service of the Duke of Burgundy’s successor, Maximilian of Austria, Engelbert was at first appointed Stadtholder (or governor) of Flanders in 1490, then rose to the position of President of the Grand Council in 1498 and Lieutenant-General of the Low Countries—effectively the chief Habsburg representative in the Netherlands—from 1501 until his death in 1504. He acquired several more lordships, notably Roosendaal and Wouw, near Breda, and Diest also in Brabant, but today across the border in Belgium.

Count Engelbert II of Nsssau, Lord of Breda

Engelbert II had no children, so his Netherlandish inheritance passed entirely to his nephew, Heinrich III of Nassau-Dillenburg. Heinrich (or Hendrik) was appointed a chamberlain in the household of young Archduke Charles, soon to become both Carlos I of Spain and the emperor as Charles V. They became quite close, and Hendrik was named a member of his Privy Council, Stadtholder of Holland and Zealand in 1515, and the new emperor’s Grand Chamberlain in 1521, as well as his Master of the Hunt for the Duchy of Brabant. Nassau-Breda represented Charles formally in Germany at the time of his election as emperor in 1519, and accompanied him to Bologna for his imperial coronation in 1530. As a sign of his loyalty, he remained a firm Catholic in the 1530s, when other leading nobles, including his own brother, William ‘the Rich’, were joining the new Lutheran confession. He also accompanied Charles V to Spain several times, and married a Spaniard as his third wife in 1524. As seen above, his previous wife was Claude de Chalon, sister of Philibert, Prince of Orange.

Hendrik III, Count of Nassau-Breda

Hendrik of Nassau-Breda had one legitimate son, René who took the surname Chalon, and an illegitimate son with the daughter of the governor of the castle of Vianden, Alexis, who was given the lordship of Corroy in Namur and founded a dynasty (Nassau-Corroy) that became counts in 1693, and lasted until the early 19th century. This medieval fortress, now property of the noble Trazegnies family, is one of the most impressive castles in Belgium.

Corroy Castle (photo Benoit Brummer)

René de Chalon thus had this great quadruple inheritance: he was count of Nassau in Germany, lord of Breda in the Low Countries, lord of Chalon-Arlay in Burgundy, and prince of Orange in Provence. In his relatively short life he was invested as Stadtholder of Holland and Zealand, 1540, then of Guelders in 1543 after it was conquered by Charles V.

René de Chalon, Prince of Orange

He died just a year later, wounded during the siege of Saint-Dizier, on the frontiers between France and the Duchy of Bar. His wife, Princess Anne of Lorraine took his body initially to her father’s co-capital city, Bar-le-Duc, and here she commissioned one of my favourite tomb sculptures, by Ligier Richier. While René’s body was later transported to Breda for burial, his heart, and the sculpture, remained in Bar.

the monument to René de Chalon in Bar-le-Duc

The massive succession of René de Chalon in 1544, estimated at about 800 towns and castles, was all willed to his cousin, William of Nassau-Dillenburg, with the stipulation that he must have a Catholic education. This donation obtained the Emperor’s approval in 1545, and that of the King of France in 1552, crucial since William was not the direct heir to the lands of the Houses of Orange, Baux and Chalon. This William became the famous William the Silent, leader of the Dutch Revolt against Spanish rule, or William I, Prince of Orange. His father, younger brother of Count Hendrik III, had been known as Wilhelm ‘the Rich’ because his share of the Nassau inheritance had included the rich iron ore in the hills around Siegen and Dillenburg. He was known as a good ruler of his territories, loved by his peasants even in the turbulent years of the 1520s, and formally introduced the Reformation into his territories. Nevertheless, he had a Catholic marriage in 1530, to Juliana of Stolberg, and their son was baptised as a Catholic in 1533.

William I of Nassau, Prince of Orange, as a young man

William the Silent thus had a multi-confessional upbringing, but in either case, very loyal to the Habsburg monarchy. He inherited the Chalon and Breda properties in 1544, then succeeded his father in Dillenburg in 1559, but gave most of these German lands to his younger brothers, of which there were many. Johann VI became lord of Dillenburg, and would ultimately become the ancestor of the later princes of Orange and the Dutch royal family, so we will return to him below. Another brother, Louis (or Lodewijk), was initially the most politically active and devoted to the new faith of the Low Countries, Calvinism. He led a confederation of Dutch nobles to protest the harshness of Spanish rule in 1565, and helped start the Dutch Revolt in 1568. While his older brother was attempting to maintain peace between Spanish and Dutch, Catholic and Protestant factions, Louis was sent to the far south of France to serve as governor of the Principality of Orange. From here he raised troops which he led in support of the French Huguenots at the battles of Jarnac and Moncontour, then across the border into the Low Countries where he was killed in battle against the Spanish at Mookerheyde near Nijmegen in 1574. Younger brothers Adolf and Heinrich were also soldiers in this conflict, the former being one of the first casualties of the war in 1568, and the latter killed at Mookerheyde alongside his brother Louis.

a collection of laws for the principality of Orange, printed in 1567 (note the very clear use of the ‘dei gratia’ style for the Prince of Orange, underlining his sovereignty)

William I, Prince of Orange, as we’ve seen, was compelled by terms of the will of René de Chalon to be educated as a Catholic, and so he was, at the court of Mary of Hungary, Governess of the Low Countries. Mary’s brother Charles V continued to take an interest, and arranged a marriage to yet another heiress, Anna van Egmond, heiress of the county of Buren, an autonomous fief of the Empire enclaved within the Dutch provinces, as well as various lordships in Holland and Zealand. William was named to the Emperor’s Council and supported Charles physically when he was ill and formally abdicated from his royal duties in 1555. At first the Prince of Orange continued in the good graces of the new ruler of the Low Countries, Philip II, and was appointed Stadtholder of Holland and Zealand in 1559, then of the Franche-Comté in 1561. But he soon emerged as a leader of the opposition on the Council, disliking the heavy-handed treatment of Protestants by Spanish troops. In 1561, he married as his second wife Anna of Saxony, daughter of the Elector of Saxony—this was significant in that she was of a far higher rank than his first wife, but also daughter of one of the primary leaders of the Protestant movement in Germany. It was a Lutheran ceremony, but William remained a Catholic. Only later (in 1573) did he become a Calvinist—but by this point he had fully broken with the Spanish king, and had been declared an outlaw and a rebel. In 1581, the Dutch estates began to press for full independence from Spanish rule and declared Philip II formally deposed.

William I (‘the Silent’) as an older man

At first the Prince of Orange tried to lure a French royal prince (the Duke of Anjou) to the Low Countries to act as Sovereign Prince, but this prince was not up to the task, and by 1583, William was himself the virtual sovereign of a new nation. Since the 1570s, he had established his court at a recently secularised convent, the Saint Agatha Cloister next to the Old Church in Delft, which became known as the Prinsenhof. He was assassinated only a year later, and buried in Delft’s New Church, which became the sepulchre of the House of Orange-Nassau, which it still is today. The Prinsenhof was later used as a cloth hall, a Latin school, and since the early 20th century, a municipal museum.

an old print of the Prinsenhof in Delft (on the right)
Delft Prinsenhof today

William the Silent also increased even further the landholdings of the House of Orange-Nassau in the Low Countries, in particular through the purchase in 1582 of the Marquisate of Veere and Vlissingen. Both of these towns were major shipping centres since in the Middle Ages, both in Zealand, and both with strong connections to seaports in England and Scotland across the North Sea—they were historically known in English as Camphire (the ferry or veere at Campu) and Flushing. By the 16th century, much of the Dutch navy was based at Veere and the Dutch East India Company at Vlissingen. The lordships held by the Van Borssele family since the middle ages passed to the Van Bourgondië family (an illegitimate branch of the Valois dukes of Burgundy), and were erected together into a marquisate by Charles V in 1555. But the family sold the marquisate to Philip of Spain in 1567, whose debts were paid in part by selling it to the States of Holland and Zealand, who then sold it to William of Orange. The Prince intended it to be the main domain of his second son, Maurice, and a political benefit too, as it came with two votes in the estates of Zealand. There had been an old castle at Veere, the Zandenburg (or Sandenburgh), but it soon fell into disrepair and its ruins were dismantled in the early 19th century.

19th-century watercolors of the Sandenburgh, Veere

The next Prince of Orange is a bit of an anomaly in the story of Dutch independence. Philip William, the only son from William I’s first marriage, was born and raised as a Catholic, and sent as a hostage to Spain when the revolt broke out in 1568. Unlike his uncles and half-brothers, he remained a devoted Catholic and loyal to the Spanish Habsburgs. He eventually returned to the Netherlands, in 1596, and was allowed to rule the Barony of Breda, though this was contested by his younger brother until 1606. In that year, he married a daughter of the Prince of Condé, cousin to the King of France, so it is clear he had dynastic ambitions. But no children came from the marriage, and he died in 1618.

Philip William of Nassau, Prince of Orange, Baron of Breda

It would be interesting to know more about the relationship between Philip William and the Principality of Orange itself, especially given his renewed relationships with the French royal family. Certainly under the later ‘reigns’ of his half-brothers and then nephew, it remained a haven for Protestants in a sea of Catholics. There were Protestant schools there, and a Protestant university and seminary. A great new fortress was constructed in 1620 by Prince Maurice, on top of the hill that dominates the centre of the city, the site of the ancient Celtic then Roman fortifications. This was dismantled by French forces when they took over the principality in 1672. More on that below.

an engraving of Orange from 1634, showing its fortress above the ancient Roman town

The Principality did not consist just of Orange, but of several smaller enclaves across the region, like the Barony of Orpierre, high up in the pre-Alps east of Orange, whose town walls kept its Protestants safe in the 17th century. Or the castle of Suze-la-Rousse, north of Orange, which had served as the summer residence of the medieval princes, but since the 15th century belonged to an allied family, La Baume de Suze.

Maurice of Nassau, only son of William the Silent’s second marriage (to Anna of Saxony), took up his father’s role as leader of the Dutch Revolt. He was almost immediately appointed statdtholder of all the Dutch provinces (except Friesland), and Captain-General of the United Provinces in 1587. He made a name for himself in history as a successful military commander and reformer—a key exemplar of the so-called ‘military revolution’ that stressed tactics and professionalism in creating the modern army. He was Prince of Orange for only a few years, from 1618 to 1625, then was succeeded by another half-brother, Frederick Henry.

Moritz of Nassau, Prince of Orange, Stadtholder

Like his father, Maurice (or Moritz in Dutch) also expanded the family landholdings. In 1594, he was named heir to the Imperial County of Moers (sometimes spelled Meurs or Mörs), on the Rhine between the Duchy of Cleves, the lands of the Archbishop of Cologne and the Duchy of Guelders (still contested between Dutch and Spanish forces). The last sovereign countess had been run out by the Spanish, so she willed the County and its castle (the Moersschloss) to Maurice, who retook it by force in 1597. Possession was contested by the Duke of Cleves-Jülich, and although he agreed to its possession by the House of Orange-Nassau, his family continued to use the title Count of Moers well into the 18th century. Moritz also conquered in 1597 the Imperial County of Lingen, further to the east in Westphalia, a property that his father had been forced to sell to the Habsburgs in 1550. Neither Moers nor Lingen were ever incorporated into the Dutch lands, but remained separate possessions of the dynasty. Their coat of arms now (in some versions) sported not just the various quarters of the House of Nassau, but also the escutcheons of Orange, Chalon-Arlay and Geneva, and now new shields (above and below the centre escutcheon) for Veere & Vlissingen (black and silver) and for Moers (gold and black).

augmented Orange-Nassau arms in 1640s
Moers Castle with a statue of Luise Henriette of Orange (photo © Raimond Spekking / CC BY-SA 3.0)

Frederick Henry of Orange-Nassau, youngest son of William I and his fourth wife Louise de Coligny, also took over from his brother as statdtholder of all Dutch provinces except Friesland (which had its own line of Nassau statdtholders, who we will encounter below), and was also appointed Captain-General of the Union. He’s remembered as an equally capable general, but a better politician than his brother Maurice, and is known in particular for the capture of the main Spanish military base, ’s-Hertogenbosch, in 1629.

Frederick Henry of Nsssau, Prince of Orange, Stadtholder

This was the Golden Age for the Dutch Republic, and a high point for the stadtholderate. New residences were renovated or commissioned to develop a proper princely court at The Hague—Amsterdam remained a mercantile city, and what is now the Royal Palace was built in this period as the City Hall. The Hague, formally ’s-Gravenhage (‘the count’s wood’) had been the seat of the medieval counts of Holland, then the meeting place of the States of Holland (and thus the residence of the stadtholders, representatives of now absentee counts), and of the States General of the United Dutch Provinces since the 1580s, so it made sense to establish the court of the Prince of Orange here. Prince Frederick Henry enlarged a palace he had inherited from his mother, Louise de Coligny, Noordeinde. It had been built in the 1530s as a residence of one of the senior officials of the States of Holland in the ‘North End’ of The Hague, and was given to Louise as widow of William the Silent by the States of Holland in 1595. In the 1640s, Frederick Henry added two wings, to give it an H shape (it was called the Oude Hof in this period). Nationalised during the period of the Batavian Republic (1790s), it was named as one of the three official royal palaces once the Netherlands became a Kingdom in 1815, and was used as the main winter residence in the 19th century. Noordeinde Palace was badly burned in 1948, so the monarch resided elsewhere. In 1984 it became formally the ‘office’ or chief working space of the monarch.

Noordeinde Palace, The Hague

On the other side of The Hague, deep in a wood, Frederick Henry’s wife, Amalia von Solms, commissioned a new residence, Huis ten Bosch (‘the house in the wood’), on lands given to her by the States General in 1645. After her husband’s death in 1647, the Dowager Princess filled the central hall, the Oranjezaal, with paintings by the finest Dutch artists, commemorating her husband’s life and the history of the House of Orange. Two large wings were added in the 1730s. Like Noordeinde Palace, the Huis ten Bosch was confiscated by the Batavian Republic, then given for use to the royal family in 1815, again, as one of the three official residences (the other was the Royal Palace in Amsterdam). Extensively renovated in the 1950s, it became the principal residence of Queen Beatrix in 1981, and since 2019 of the current royal family.

Huis ten Bosch, The Hague (photo PeteBobb)
Oranjezaal in the Huis ten Bosch (photo Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel Erfgoed)

Prince Frederick Henry was also the head of an expanding princely dynasty: he had many half-sisters whose unusual second names reveal the growing association of the House of Orange-Nassau with the Dutch Republic: Catharina Belgica, Charlotte Flandrina, Charlotte Brabantina, and Emilia Antwerpiana. These were not just symbolic names, but in fact were given to demonstrate that the estates of these provinces were acting as formal godparents to these girls, and would thus look after them, spiritually and financially if needed. Several of these secured dynastic ties through marriage to other leading Protestant families in Northern Europe, as did, most importantly, the oldest sister, Louise Juliana, who married Frederick IV, the Elector Palatine: their son would unite Protestant Europe in marrying the daughter of King James of England, and this couple would ignite the Thirty Years War in 1618 by accepting the throne of the Kingdom of Bohemia.

Frederick Henry also had lots of daughters, but only one son, William II, to whom we will return to below. But there were also ‘unofficial’ members of the House of Orange-Nassau: both Prince Maurice and Prince Frederick Henry had illegitimate sons: Maurice’s son, Louis (Lodewijk) founded a new line, the lords of Ouwerkerk (in South Holland), who became better known as the family Nassau-Auverquerque in French, or ‘Overkirk’ when they moved into English society in the 1660s. The last of these was Earl of Grantham from 1698 to 1754. Frederick Henry’s son, Frederik, also founded a line, based in the lordship of Zuylestein (in the Province of Utrecht), who were eventually given an English earldom, Rochford (created in 1685; extinct in 1830).

Frederick of Nassau, Lord of Zuylestein (by Lely)

More relevant to our story, the first Lord of Zuylestein was appointed as governor of the household of his younger half-brother, William II, who became Prince of Orange in 1647, and then of William’s young son, William III, who became Prince of Orange only three years later in 1650. Frederik of Nassau-Zuylestein was also a captain of the Dutch infantry, and helped forge closer ties between the Houses of Orange and Stuart when in 1648 he married Mary Killigrew, a maid-of-honour of the Princess of Orange, Mary Stuart, daughter of Charles I. Princess Mary was named Regent of her young son, and together she and Zuylestein tried to preserve some of the status and authority of the role of stadtholder—much of which had been lost in the brief reign of William II, who had opposed the peace offered to the Dutch in the Treaty of Westphalia of 1648, and quarrelled with the Estates of Holland who wanted to reduce the size of the army following the peace. William II was only 24 when he died of smallpox.

the children William II and Mary Stuart, by Van Dyck

William III was born a week later. In addition to his mother and Zuylestein, the Prince was formally looked after by his grandmother, Amalia van Solms (a source of tension for the British princess, who thought her mother-in-law, born a German countess, was beneath her), and his uncle, Frederick William, the Elector of Brandenburg. The fact that a Hohenzollern was his uncle will be important later when we come to the next stage in the succession of the principality of Orange, so keep that in mind. William’s mother died in 1660, so his other uncle, King Charles II of England got involved and convinced the Dutch Estates to declare the Prince a ‘Child of State’ in 1666. Zuylestein was pushed aside, and the job of stadtholder was nearly abolished (Holland and others did formally abolish it in 1670). What would be the role of the House of Orange-Nassau in the Republic now?

When war broke out with France in 1672, the Prince of Orange was appointed Captain-General, temporarily, but when the actual invasion of the largest army in Europe began, William was swiftly appointed Statdholder of Holland and Zealand. After his first victories on the battlefield, he was appointed hereditary (not just for life) stadtholder in Utrecht (1674) and then Gelderland (1675). From here on, William III’s history is quite well known, as builder of great European coalitions against Louis XIV, preserving Dutch independence in the 1670s, and then leading the Glorious Revolution in England where he was named king (in conjunction with his wife, also named Mary Stuart) in 1689. William and Mary also gave their name to a new college in the colony of Virginia, which I attended exactly three centuries later.

William and Mary as joint sovereigns of England, Scotland and Ireland

Like his grandfather and great-uncle, William III also expanded his family holdings in the Dutch Republic through the purchase of a house at Soestdijk, and construction of the Palace of Het Loo. Soestdijk was built in the mid-17th century by one of the leaders of the Republic, Cornelis de Graeff, who also took charge of young William’s education in the 1650s, often keeping him at Soestdijk, in the Province of Utrecht, to be raised with his sons. In 1674, one of Cornelis’ sons then sold the house to the Prince, who rebuilt it as a hunting lodge. After the revolutionary period, it was returned to the family as private property, and Queen Juliana used it as her residence (though she gave it to the state in 1971) until her death in 2004. In 2017 it was sold to a private developer and there are plans to renovate the palace as a public venue, but also to add housing, a hotel and other elements to the site.

Soestdijk Palace (Creative Commons, Michael A. Echteld)

Further east, in the province of Gelderland, William III built another hunting lodge, called Het Loo (‘the lea’, or forest clearing), near Apeldoorn. This was built swiftly in 1685-86, and he added extensive baroque gardens. It would serve as the chief summer residence for the Dutch kings in the 19th century until 1962; since 1984 it has been a state museum, and the baroque gardens have recently been restored, to great acclaim. Het Loo Palace was one of the first royal buildings I ever visited, on a trip by the Choir of the College of William and Mary to Europe in 1993, and it made a deep impression on me as the legacy of King William III.

Het Loo, engraving from the early 18th century

William himself did not long enjoy his new palaces, however. On the eve of building one final huge European coalition to contain the ambitions of Louis XIV and the House of Bourbon, William III suddenly died, March 1702. He and Mary had no children, and the succession to the Principality of Orange became a heated international diplomatic issue.

The Principality of Orange had been occupied by France at the start of the Dutch War, 1672, and its fortifications dismantled. In accordance with the Treaty of Utrecht, 1713, Louis XIV formally acquired the principality (and all its smaller enclaved lordships in Provence and Dauphiné), and finally ended its ancient status as a sovereign principality. At least two (possibly three) French claimants emerge to the titles and lands of the princes of Orange. The confused testament of Louis de Chalon, Prince of Orange, back in 1463, had put forward heirs in the House of Seyssel (a frontier family between Burgundy and Savoy), but they had died out and claims made by cousins were thrown out. A younger brother of Louis, Jean, Seigneur de Vitteaux, inherited some Chalon lands in Burgundy, notably L’Isle-sous-Montréal, which passed through several female successions eventually into the House of Mailly by the late 17th century. Louis-Charles de Mailly-Nesle accompanied Louis XIV on his conquest of Franche-Comté in 1674, and was recognised (some said) by the King as the heir to the House of Orange-Chalon (recall that the transfer of titles and properties from René de Chalon to William the Silent in 1544, seen above, was considered legally dubious by several jurists, notably French ones…).  Mailly took the title ‘Prince of Orange and L’Isle-sous-Montréal’, and in 1706 was authorised to use it by the French king. When he died in 1708, his grandson, Louis III de Mailly, Marquis de Nesle, took up the princely title and even moved in to take possession of the Orange estates in 1710 (and one of his sisters married a Prince of Nassau-Siegen, meaning some later members of that family also later claimed the title). But when the actual settlement with the House of Orange-Nassau was made in the Treaty of Utrecht of 1713, Louis XIV changed his mind, and bestowed the lands (and the title Prince of Orange) formally on his cousin, the Prince of Conti (Louis-Armand de Bourbon), as heir to yet another Chalon heiress: Alix, the sister of Prince Louis and Jean de Vitteaux, who was named as heiress presumptive by their mother, Marie des Baux. Alix’s claims passed through various families before it ended up in the House of Orléans-Longueville (an illegitimate branch of the House of Valois). François, Duke of Longueville, had attempted to claim the succession in 1544, and he and his nephew and heir obtained some legal wins in French law courts, but were unable to make good of them due to the prominence of William the Silent. The last Duke of Longueville died in 1694, leaving Conti as his heir. Conti was to hold the principality in usufruct until he died; which he did in 1727, and shortly thereafter, the Principality formally merged with the Crown in 1731. The Mailly claimants continued to use the title well into the 19th century.

Louis de Mailly as Prince of Orange (see text lower left corner)

But there were other claimants, not just to the Principality of Orange, but to the vast Orange-Nassau family properties in the Low Countries, including Breda, Veere & Vlissingen, and the various residences in The Hague, Soestdijk and Het Loo. There were also the Chalon lands in Burgundy, the County of Vianden in Luxembourg, and the Imperial County of Moers. The closest kin to William III when he died in 1702 was actually his cousin, Frederick William I, King of Prussia, who claimed the Principality and the other Nassau titles and estates. He ceded his rights to Orange itself to the King of France by the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713, though retaining use of the title for himself and his descendants. The specific terms of the Treaty specified the King of Prussia could create a new principality of Orange in the Prussian portion of the province of Gelderland (to be based on the town of Geldern, the land of Kessel and other towns and lordships, now in Germany), but I’m not sure if this was ever done, even on paper. The Hohenzollerns continued to use the title ‘Prince of Orange’ as late as 1918.

But Orange was also claimed in 1702 by Johan Willem Friso of Nassau-Dietz. Jumping back to the mid-16th century, one of the younger brothers of William the Silent was Johann VI, Count of Nassau-Dillenburg. Like so many members of this family, he too was involved in the Dutch Revolt, was named Stadtholder of Gelderland, and was one of the principal leaders responsible for the forging of the Union of Utrecht, 1579, the declaration that bound together the northern Dutch provinces in their rebellion against Spanish rule. In 1606, his estates were divided between his five living sons. The eldest, Wilhelm, received Dillenburg, but stayed in the Netherlands where he was appointed stadtholder of Friesland, the northernmost of the Dutch provinces, in 1584. Like his cousins, he was one of the leading commanders of the Dutch army and a military reformer. He solidified links between the branches by marrying his cousin, Anna of Orange-Nassau, but they had no children. The second son, Johann VII received Siegen as his portion of the county of Nassau. He was also known as a military reformer, but he served in a different theatre, with the armies of Sweden in its wars in the Baltic. The fourth son, Ernst Casimir, was given Dietz as his portion of Nassau in 1606 then succeeded his eldest brother as stadtholder of Friesland in 1620. He starts therefore a secondary Dutch line, Nassau-Dietz, also known as the Frisian Branch. We’ll return to them in a moment, but first we need to look at what happens to the Imperial branches of the House of Nassau in the 17th century.

Johann VII, Count of Nassau-Siegen had, with two wives, 21 children. Two of the sons, Johann VIII and Johann Moritz, formed new sub-branches, both called Nassau-Siegen, one Catholic and one Protestant. Johann VIII shocked his family by converting to Catholicism in 1613, and joining the Imperial armies. Johann Moritz retook Siegen from his brother and reversed his efforts at recatholicization, then led a long and interesting career in service of the Dutch Republic, notably as Governor of Dutch Brazil, 1636 to 1643, then Governor of the Duchy of Cleves for the Elector of Brandenburg, from 1648, and finally Commander-in-Chief of Dutch land forces, 1664, for the Republic’s war against England. He gave his second name to the house he built in The Hague, the Mauritshuis, today a fantastic museum.

Mauritshuis, The Hague (by Bartholomeus van Hove, 1825, Rijksmuseum)

In 1650, the two Siegen counts’ uncle, Johann Ludwig of Nassau-Hadamar, an Imperial diplomat (and another convert back to Catholicism), was raised by the Emperor from the rank of count to fürst, ie, ruling prince. This started a trend within the family to press for a similar rank for all its members, and two years later, both branches of Nassau-Siegen were made princes of the Empire, as were the counts of Nassau-Dillenburg and Nassau-Dietz in 1654. Several lines of the other major branch of the dynasty (the Walramians) were later also raised to princely rank, in 1688 (Weilburg, Idstein, Usingen).

So from 1654, Nassau-Dietz was a principality. The Castle of Dietz (today Diez), on the river Lahn, was built in the 11th century and acquired by the Nassau family through marriage in 1384. South of Dillenburg and Siegen, it was much closer to the old core of the County of Nassau. From the 1680s, the family, when in residence in Germany, moved out of the old castle and into a new palace, Oranienstein, on the edge of town (built on the ruins of a former abbey), and the old castle of Dietz was used as estate and government offices. The Dutch royal family lived in exile at Oranienstein during the period of the Batavian Republic. After 1866 it was given to the Prussian Army who developed it for military use (a cadet school, barracks, medical facilities, and it is still operated by the German military today. Diez Castle now houses a youth hostel and a local history museum.

Diez Castle, Nassau (photo Franzfoto)
Schloss Oranienstein, Diez (photo Carsten Steger)

But in the 17th century the family of Nassau-Dietz spent most its time in Friesland. They had acquired a large house in the provincial capital, Leeuwarden, in 1587, which has since been known as the Stadhouderlijk Hof, or Stadtholder’s Court. In the later 17th century, one of the Frisian line of stadtholders, Willem Frederik, added a lavish garden, the Prinsentuin Garden, which survives today. The Hof itself is, since 1996, a hotel.

Stadhouderlijk Hof, Leeuwarden (photo Jean Housen)

This Willem Frederik was stadtholder of Friesland from 1640. Like several members of his family, he re-joined his Nassau bloodline by marrying the daughter of Frederick Henry, Prince of Orange, in 1652. After the death of Prince William II in 1650, Willem Frederik tried to act as guardian for the infant William III and leader of the Orangist Party in the Republic, without much success. He died in 1664, arranging for his seven-year-old son to be named stadtholder of Friesland under the regency of his mother. Albertine Agnes of Orange-Nassau.

Henry Casimir II, Prince of Nassau-Dietz, was stadtholder of Friesland and Groningen from 1664 to 1696. He seems to have led a fairly uninfluential life, frustrated as a military commander to such an extent that he defected for a time into French service (and thus into opposition of his nephew William III), then resigning when passed over for top command once again in 1693. But he did leave the stadtholderate of Frisia intact for his son, Johan Willem Friso—indeed it was confirmed as hereditary in his family in 1675. When William III died in 1702, the succession to the main line had a problem. William’s will had named the descendants of his aunt, Albertine Agnes of Orange-Nassau, as his heirs: that is, Johan Willem Friso of Nassau-Dietz. But an older will, of Prince Frederick Henry, named the descendants of his elder daughter Luise Henriette, wife of the Elector of Brandenburg. In 1702 therefore, the Elector of Brandenburg, recently promoted to King in Prussia as Frederick I, claimed the Orange succession, as we’ve seen above.

Johan Willem Friso of Nassau-Dietz

Meanwhile, Johan Willem Friso continued to press for his own claims to the Orange-Nassau succession. Finally in 1732, his son William IV made a treaty of partition with the Hohenzollerns of Prussia and they agreed to share the revenues and the title. By this point of course, no one was actually prince of Orange. The agreement pertained more to returning estates and residences in the Netherlands to the new House of Orange-Nassau, notably Noordeinde Palace and Het Loo (financial haggling continued into the 1750s).

Johan Willem Friso had been stadtholder of Friesland and Groningen from 1702, but the other five provinces suspended the office rather than elect him. In 1707 he served as a general in the War of Spanish Succession under the Duke of Marlborough, but he died fairly young in 1711. His son William IV was elected stadtholder of Friesland and Groningen in 1711, with his mother as regent, and later in Gelderland, 1722. In 1739, he inherited the lands of Nassau-Dillenburg, and in 1743, those of Siegen and Hadamar, unifying the northern half of the old imperial county once again. As Prince of Nassau-Dietz he had to balance his interests between the Netherlands and the Holy Roman Empire, and in 1747 he supported the Habsburgs in their war against Prussia and France. The Dutch Republic did too, and when France invaded, he was named stadtholder of the other three main provinces (Holland, Zealand and Utrecht) and then the first Hereditary Stadtholder of the United Provinces, ending the Second Stadtholderless period—this is known as the ‘Orangist Revolution’. He and his family moved their court from Leeuwarden to the princely court at The Hague.

William IV, P:rince of Orange, showing his passion for the Dutch navy

Prince William IV’s ‘royal’ status had been enhanced a few years earlier when he married his cousin, Anne, Princess Royal of Great Britain—and several places were named in his honour in the British colonies, like the County of Orange in Virginia, and Orangeburg, South Carolina. Of course there were also Dutch possessions given the Orange name in the 18th century: the capitals of both Aruba and Sint Eustatius in the Caribbean (Oranjestad); the longest river in South Africa, the Orange (which gave its name to the Orange Free State); even Cape Orange on the borders between Brazil and the Guianas. As a ruler, the Prince of Orange tried to reform the tax burdens on ordinary folk of the countryside, but he was definitely allied with the urban merchant elites as well, and was appointed one of the directors-general of the Dutch East India Company. The Prince of Orange was keen to build this collection of provinces into a unified state—he demonstrated his devotion to this ‘national’ idea even by naming his son, born just one year later, William Batavus. But he died rather suddenly in 1751.

Since the role of stadtholder of all the provinces was now hereditary, his son William V succeeded to this role. But he was only three, so was governed by a string off regents: his mother, Anne of Hanover, his grandmother, Marie Louise of Hesse-Kassel, then his cousin and one of his father’s trusted generals, Duke Ludwig Ernst of Brunswick-Bevern, and finally briefly, his older sister Caroline for one more year until he reached his majority in 1766. A year later he married another cousin, Wilhelmina of Prussia, niece of Frederick the Great, thus fully reconciling the families who had been rivals over the Principality of Orange.

William V

The former regent Brunswick-Bevern stayed on in the Netherlands as Prime Minister until his overtly pro-British policies and close links to Emperor Joseph II clashed with Dutch interests, and, the Dutch faring badly in its war with Great Britain in the early 1780s, he was forced from power in 1784. By association, William V and the idea of a hereditary stadtholder were now increasingly unpopular, and he faced armed uprisings in 1786 and ’87 (and the States of Holland took away his title Lieutenant-General of the Army). His wife was attacked, leading her Prussian relatives to see this as an affront too far so they invaded in September 1787 to suppress the Patriots Party. It was too late to put the lid back on the bubbling revolution about to erupt and it joined up with revolts in France and the Austrian Netherlands just across the southern borders. In January 1795, exiled Patriots returned to the Netherlands and forced the Prince of Orange into exile. The Batavian Republic was proclaimed and the properties of the House of Orange-Nassau were confiscated. William went to Britain to try to obtain assistance, but in 1802, Britain recognised the Batavian Republic (an ally of Republican France), and a Franco-Prussian convention later that year decided that the House of Orange could be compensated for its losses of estates in the Netherlands through the creation of a new Principality of Orange-Nassau-Fulda, with various secularised church lands in Holy Roman Empire, notably the former abbeys of Fulda and Corvey. William V ceded this immediately to his son, in 1803, and died in exile in Brunswick in April 1806.

William Frederick, Prince of Orange-Nassau (William VI), c.1810

The reign of William Frederick, Prince of Orange-Nassau-Fulda, lasted only a few more months. He had refused to join Napoleon’s Confederation of the Rhine, so the new Emperor of the French dissolved the principality in July 1806, and incorporated these territories, as well as the older Nassau lands, into new states he was creating: the Grand Duchy of Berg for his brother-in-law Joachim Murat, and an expanded Duchy of Nassau for the rival line of Nassau-Weilburg. Succeeding his father—at least in Orangist eyes—as William VI, Prince of Orange—he fought against Napoleon in the armies first of Prussia, then Austria. As the tide began to turn the Batavian Republic crumbled and in November 1813, he was asked to return to the Netherlands as ‘Sovereign Prince of the United Netherlands’—with strong support from the Russian Tsar, Alexander I (this alliance would soon be sealed by a marriage between his son and the Tsar’s sister, Anna Pavlovna). He was also given back his lands in the county of Nassau itself. The treaties following Napoleon’s surrender in June 1814 gave him rule over the former Austrian Netherlands as well (as governor-general), but by March of 1815, he proclaimed that he was to be king of a United Netherlands (north and south), later approved by the Congress of Vienna. The new King William I promised to rule with a constitution for the new kingdom, and ceded his dynastic lands in Nassau to Prussia in exchange for the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.

William I in coronation robes as King of the Netherlands

There was discontent with the rule of King William I in the south almost from the start, and the last years of his reign were consumed by the Belgian Revolution of 1830-39. He was also increasingly alienated from the liberal leanings of his Dutch political leaders, and in 1840 abdicated in order to marry a non-royal Belgian Catholic, the Comtesse d’Oultremont. He died in 1849 as simple ‘Count of Nassau’.

William I had started the tradition of naming his heir ‘Prince of Orange’. William Frederick George was much more popular than his father, both in the Netherlands and in Great Britain, in whose forces he had served with skill in the Napoleonic wars. He was one of the commanders of the Allied troops under Wellington at Waterloo in 1815, and the many pubs in Britain still known today as the ‘Prince of Orange’ are probably named for him (but I’d need to do some pubcrawl research to be sure): one in east Manchester (appropriately on Wellington Road, in Ashton), one in rural Somerset, one in Gravesend, Kent, and a recently closed one in Rotherhithe, southeast London (there’s also one in Torquay in Devon, but I think we can assume that is named for William III who landed his troops there in 1688). He became King William II in 1840.

the Prince of Orange pub nearest me, in Ashton (East Manchester) (photo by the author)
William, Prince of Orange, at the Battle of Waterloo (the future King William II)

William I had a second son, Frederick, who potentially could have started a cadet line, first intended to inherit the German lands, then after 1815 perhaps the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. But in 1816, he gave up this idea and accepted the title ‘Prince of the Netherlands’ (and a large stipend), and devoted his energies to reorganising and modernising the Dutch army. Another potential for rule came his way in 1829, when he was offered the Greek throne, but he was not interested. After his father’s abdication, Prince Frederick retired from politics, and bought a large private estate in Germany: Muskau, near Görlitz in Saxony, close to the modern border with Poland, where he developed its gardens, reckoned the largest and most famous English-style garden in all of Central Europe.

Muskau in the 19th century

The nineteenth-century history of the princes of Orange is really therefore the history of the royal family of the Netherlands (so less pertinent for a blogsite about dukes and princes). King William II’s son William was entitled Prince of Orange from 1840-49, then succeeded as William III. His eldest son (named, surprise, William) was Prince of Orange 1849-79, but was one of those mid-19th-century royals who simply could not stomach the idea of a stiff and restrained life as a royal prince, so spent his days in Paris (where he was delightfully known as ‘Prince Lemon’) and drank himself to death before he turned 40.

William the Lemon

The last Prince of Orange until recent times was thus William III’s second son, Alexander, from 1879 to 1884. Quite unlike his older brother, he was more of an intellectual and very interested in politics. But he too died before his father, only a few years later of typhus, leaving a four-year-old half-sister, Wilhelmina. Wilhelmina was not called Princess of Orange, as her father the King held out for a few more years for a male heir. But when he died in 1890 she did succeed him as sovereign of the Netherlands, though not of Luxembourg, which insisted on males-only succession. Due to a Nassau family pact from many generations before, the Grand Duchy now passed to the House of Nassau-Weilburg, as we’ve seen above. Neither Wilhelmina’s daughter, Juliana, nor her grand-daughter, Beatrix, was called Princess of Orange—as far as I can tell—when they were heir to the throne. The tradition was revived for Beatrix’s son, Willem Alexander, when she became queen in 1980; he then broke with tradition and named his daughter Catharina-Amalia, Princess of Orange, when he ascended the Dutch throne in 2013.

the current Princess of Orange looking stunning in a recent royal event in Luxembourg (photo Chambre des Députés, cropped)

Princes of Orange: a Franco-German-Dutch family (part I)

If you had to choose the most trans-national princely dynasty in all of European history, who would you choose? I’d certainly go for the House of Orange-Nassau, the current royal family of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, who, if their history is looked at from a long perspective, are revealed to be a blended French (Provençal and Burgundian) and German (Rhenish) family who shifted their primary zone of operation to the Low Countries in the 16th century. Several sub-lineages retained a separate identity as princes of the German Empire in the 18th and 19th centuries including the House of Nassau-Weilburg who currently reign in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. To complete the total trans-national picture of this dynasty, we see cousins of the family that ruled the principality of Orange as powerful lords in Naples and Sicily in the 13th and 14th centuries, and even illegitimate branches established within the British peerage, as the earls of Rochford and Grantham in the 18th century. In the 17th century, you might ask: how is it that a family from Germany, whose sovereign status derived from a small enclave in southern France, now governed the United Dutch Provinces, and even briefly the kingdoms of England, Scotland and Ireland? This post will focus on the title ‘Prince of Orange’, and the ever-shifting dynasties that held it across the centuries (from Nice to Baux to Chalon to Nassau). I will leave the story of the House of Nassau itself and all its princely branches—and there are several!—for a separate post. In the end, we shall see that, although the current heir to the throne of the Netherlands, Catharina Amalia, is styled ‘Princess of Orange’, by strict lineal descent she is not the best claimant to the title.

Five princes of Orange from the House of Nassau, from William I to William III (composite image, painted by Honthorst in 1662)

The Principality of Orange is one of the most interesting anomalies in European history: a fragment of an ancient kingdom that disintegrated in the 13th century; a tiny sovereign territory surrounded by French and Papal power; a Protestant enclave in a sea of Catholicism; an empty title claimed by French, Dutch and Prussian princes well into the modern age. And none of it has anything to do with fruit.

The orange fruit takes its name from Persian and Arabic words nārang/nāranj, and gave its name to the colour once it started to circulate in Europe in the late Middle Ages. The principality, and its chief town, takes its name—possibly—from a Celtic water god, Arausio, or maybe from a pre-Celtic word for ‘high place’. It was an important Roman town in south-eastern Gaul, with a grand theatre and a triumphal arch, both of which survive today. By the end of the 3rd century it was the seat of a Christian bishop, and hosted several important synods in the 5th and 6th centuries. When you walk its streets, it feels like an ancient place. The Roman name gradually morphed into Aurengie and later Orenga by the late 12th century.

an aerial view of Orange today, with the Roman theatre at left and the hilltop on which were built various fortresses and castles, but now is a wooded park (photo jeanlouiszimmermann)

After the fall of the Roman Empire in the West, the region of the Rhône Valley between the Mediterranean and the Alps was formed into the Kingdom of the Burgundians, a Germanic people who had come from the north and settled here in the 5th century. It formed one of the component kingdoms of the empire of the Franks, but by the 11th century ceased to be part of the emerging French kingdom of the Capetians and was instead part of the Holy Roman Empire. By the 12th century, Burgundy’s centre of power shifted to the south, to the city on the Rhône called Arles, which the Kingdom took as its name (and ‘Burgundy’ became associated with the lands much further north, as we know them today). The southern part of this kingdom maintained the old identification as the ‘Roman Province’ and we now simply call it Provence.

Provence emerged as an autonomous county as the Kingdom of Arles disintegrated in the late 13th century. France started to annex parts of it (Lyonnais, Vivarais, Dauphiné), while the Papacy established in the 1270s its own direct rule over a county (or ‘comtat’) in the Rhône valley known as the Venaissin, to which the city of Avignon was added in the 1340s. Within this comtat, the ancient city of Orange retained its own independence as the seat of powerful Frankish lords who resisted absorption into any of these polities.

A map of the Comtat Venaissin and the Principality of Orange in the 17th century, showing the city of Avignon and the Rhône along the right (note: North is at the bottom)

Who exactly these earliest lords of Orange were is a bit difficult to discern, as this is also the land of legends, particularly those recounted in song. The famous Provençal troubadours sing of a William of Orange, or Guillaume ‘au Court Nez’ (the short-nosed), who was a knight of Charlemagne, a grandson of Charles Martel, married a Saracen queen (Orable), defeated her son, Arragon, King of Orange, then founded and abbey at Gellone and retired there. He was later named a saint. It is also from this semi-mythical ancestor-hero that derives the very recognisable coat-of-arms of the princes of Orange, the blue hunting horn, or bugle, on a gold field. Though coats-of-arms did not formally emerge in Europe until the 1250s, it was possibly inspired by from a misreading of the name ‘au Court Nez’ as ‘au Cornet’, a small trumpet, or more likely, from the battle horns used by the Gauls as seen on the triumphal arch in Orange still today.

an ancient wax seal with Guillaume au Court Nez

The events of the legendary capture of Orange are meant to take place about 801, but the ‘Chanson de Guillaume’ did not appear until the mid-12th century and the events recounted are pretty much pure fiction. One of the most famous ‘prince-troubadours’ of 12th century, Raimbaut, Lord of Orange, maintained his own ‘Court of Love’, a centre of music and art, in one of the family’s castles, Courthézon, just outside the ancient city.

the Troubador-Prince, Raimbaut I

The connection between Guillaume ‘au Court Nez’ and Raimbaut d’Orange is tenuous, and the former is in fact more closely linked to the dynasty who ruled further west in Toulouse and Aquitaine, not in Provence. There were lords of Orange in the 9th century, but the first really traceable dynasty arose in the 10th century in the hills above the Rhône valley, at a castle called Mévouillon. Early members of this family rose to prominence by filling senior church roles, as was common for noble families of this era—it is the bishops who matter, and this family (according to medieval genealogies, which may be exaggerated) frequently held the sees of Vaison, Gap, Sisteron and even Avignon in the 10th and 11th centuries. One of the non-clerical members of the clan married a daughter of the local overlord, the Count of Provence, in 1012, and obtained the important post of vice-count of Nice. His son, Rambaut, also vice-count (or ‘vicomte’) of Nice became connected with Orange through marriage to an heiress of properties there, notably the aforementioned castle of Courthézon. This castle remained one of the primary seats of the dynasty (now referred to as ‘Orange-Nice’), but declined in the early modern period and was demolished in the 1760s. Today there are only vestiges of its medieval town walls.

remains of walls of Courthézon (photo jeanlouiszimmermann)

Raimbaut II took the title ‘Count of Orange’, and went on the first Crusade in 1096. He is said to have taken part in the siege of Antioch of 1098, and stayed in Palestine where he died sometime in the 1120s. A statue of him was erected in Orange in the 1840s, at the height of France’s renewed passion for medieval history. He too features in an epic poem, La Gerusalemme liberate, written by Torquato Tasso in the16th century.

Raimbaut II in Orange

Count Raimbaut had no sons, so his daughter, Tiburge, took over the rule of Orange, and was one of the first to use a ‘princely’ title. Some sources say it was recognised as a principality in 1163 by Emperor Frederick Barbarossa to act as a counter-balance to Papal power in this corner of the Empire. By the middle of the century, her family had already shed its connections with the city of Nice, and focused their energies on the city of Orange instead. The Princess expanded the town and rebuilt its château within the ruins of the old Roman castrum on the hill above the theatre. She married twice, to powerful local lords in the neighbouring provinces, first Dauphiné (Adhémar de Monteil) then Languedoc (Aumelas). Her son, Raimbaut, Lord of Orange and Aumalas, is the troubadour noted above (died 1173), but his sister and heir, Tiburge II (also known as Tibors), was also known as a poet and singer (a trobairitz, the female equivalent to a troubadour). In 1173, she married Bertrand des Baux, and another chapter starts in the history of the Principality of Orange.

The House of Baux was one of the grandest noble families in Provence. They took their name from their chief seat, the impregnable Château des Baux, which towers over the southern plains of Provence near Arles, built into the rocky outcroppings of the Alpilles. The Old French word baux (or Provençal baou) means cliffs or escarpment. There is evidence of a fort here as early as the 970s, but the current remains originate from the 11th century, when this family took over. Most of the castle was dismantled on orders of the King of France following one of the last pushes for independence by the people of Provence in the 1630s.

the remains of the Castle of Les Baux (photo BlueBreezeWiki)

There are various origin stories for the House of Baux: they claimed descent from King Balthazar (of the Three Wise Men), and some heraldry writers linked this to the use of the star in their coat of arms. Some theorise that the first known founding member, Pons the Younger, was a son of Pons de Marseille (d. 979), of the royal house of Arles, whose older son continued the line of vicomtes of Marseilles (an office similar to that of vicomte of Nice).

Certainly the family did put forward strong claims to rule either the County of Provence, or more widely the old Kingdom of Arles. Raymond-Raimbaud, Seigneur des Baux, was a contender for the throne of Provence in his wife Stephanie’s name (while her sister and rival, Dulcia, married Raymond-Berenguer of Barcelona, and would ultimately link the history of Provence to Barcelona and Aragon for several centuries) and fought for them in what became known as the Baussenque Wars (‘Wars of Baux’), 1144-62. Emperor Conrad III, as ‘King of Burgundy’, recognised Stephanie’s rights in 1145, and granted the couple the power to coin money in Arles. Peace was forged in 1150 in Barcelona (where Raymond-Raimbaud died), but was soon broken by their son Hughes, who was once again recognised as ‘Count of Provence’ (or even as ‘King of Arles’) by Emperor Frederick I in 1155, to little effect. It was into this conflict that Princess Tiburge II brought the wealth and power of the House of Orange through marriage to Hugh’s younger brother, Bertrand, who soon made peace by recognising King Alfonso of Aragon as Count of Provence, and became as a result one of his chief advisors in the region. In return, his and his wife’s sovereignty in Orange was recognised (some sources say formally by the Emperor in 1181, but I’ve not seen any proof of this).

arms of Les Baux and Orange together

Subsequent generations nevertheless used the title ‘prince’ to indicate that they were direct vassals of the Emperor, not of any of their neighbouring princes, though they did hold lands as fiefs of both the Count of Provence to the south and the Dauphin of Dauphiné (or the Viennois) to the north. It is this vague intermediate status between these competing powers that allowed them to maintain their autonomy.

Bertrand de Baux and Tiburge d’Orange had several sons. The eldest, Hugh, received the fortress at Baux and married an heiress of the viscounty of Marseille in about 1200. The second, Bertrand, was given large lordships in Provence (notably Meyrarges and Marignane in the area outside the cities of Aix and Marseille). The third, Guillaume, succeeded as Prince of Orange in 1182. Like his mother and uncle, he too was known as a troubadour. In 1215, at Metz, Emperor Frederick II offered him all of the ancient Kingdom of Arles and the Viennois (aka Dauphiné), again as part of the long-running rivalry between emperors and popes for control of the Rhône Valley. But by 1216 Guillaume was in prison in Avignon, where he died—his descendants continued to claim the kingdom of Arles as late as the 1390s.

troubadour music from the 12th/13th century: the first track is by Raimbaut de Vaqueiras, who learned his craft at the court of Guilhèm del Bauç (Guillaume des Baux)

Guillaume’s son, Raymond I was prince of Orange for many decades, and ruled jointly with his brothers, then their sons and grandsons—as was practice for many of these fiefs in Provence, like most parts of the Empire. Until the 1340s all of them used the title ‘Prince of Orange’ and rule was shared by all males in the family.

Seal of Raymond des Baux, Prince of Orange

But by the 1240s, the landscape of Provence shifted dramatically once more, and the House of Baux was deeply affected. The last Count of Provence from the House of Barcelona died in 1245, leaving only daughters. The eldest and youngest of these were married to the King of France and his brother Charles of Anjou, while the middle two were married to the King of England and his brother Richard of Cornwall. You can see a clash coming. The late Count’s will left Provence to the youngest, Beatrice. so in 1246, she and her husband set out to establish their court in Aix. In 1257, the Prince of Orange ceded his family’s old claims to the Kingdom of Arles to Beatrice and Charles, and peace was maintained. But Charles of Anjou’s ambitions lay further south in Italy, and the House of Baux was pulled along with him to Naples and Sicily. A new pope, with roots in the south of France, was elected in 1265: Clement IV invited Charles to take the throne of Sicily, to drive out the Germans. By 1266, he had taken over both kingdoms of Naples and Sicily, and installed a large number of Provençal lords in his new government, including those of the elder two lines of the House of Baux (Hugh and Bertrand’s sons) and the younger line of Orange as well. Hugh’s son Barral, Vicomte de Marseille, was the Podestà of the Army of Charles d’Anjou in his conquest, and was named Grand Justiciar of the Kingdom of Sicily.

The story of the House of Baux in southern Italy, where they adapted their name to Del Balzo, is dramatic and stormy, but will be told in a separate blog post. They soon became leading members of the Neapolitan nobility, first as Counts of Avellino, in Campania (the region around Naples), from 1272; then Counts of Soleto, in Puglia (the ‘heel’ of Italy) from 1299, and later as Dukes of Andria, 1373 (the first ducal title in the Kingdom of Naples). Several of them held the highest offices of the Kingdom, from Grand Justiciar to Grand Admiral and even Regent. The Del Balzos married members of the ruling Angevin dynasty itself, and briefly held titles Prince of Taranto and Achaia (in Greece), and Lord of Albania (and a purely titular title, ‘Emperor of Constantinople’)—in Balkan history they have yet another surname, the Balschides, or the House of Balscha. The eldest line (Avellino) died out in the early 15th century, followed by the dukes of Andria following a stunning double murder of brothers in 1487. A cadet branch continued the ducal family of Del Balzo into the modern era, with dukedoms created on fiefs at Schiavi, Caprigliano and Presenzano (created in the 17th and 18th centuries—the latter two continue at present).

Returning to Provence, the branch of the family that remained at Orange accumulated more lordships in the region through good marriages to local heiresses, as well as lordships in the neighbouring provinces of Languedoc (integrated into France in the 1200s) and Dauphiné (not part of France till the 1350s). Prince Raymond V worked to expand the economy of his principality, especially in its wine trade, and founded a university in 1365, officially sanctioned by Emperor Charles IV, who had come to the region to be crowned King of Arles. The University of Orange would function until 1793 (having become a Protestant university in the 1570s, then Catholic again from the 1720s), when it was closed by the Revolutionary authorities. Back in the 14th century, Raymond V fell foul of the Angevin regime of Queen Giovanna of Naples (aka, Jeanne, Countess of Provence). His ties with the Empire angered her (as did his marriage to the daughter of another imperial prince in the region, the Count of Geneva), and in 1366, she demanded he do homage to her for Orange, which he refused to do. She temporarily confiscated his lands in Provence, but returned them by 1370. After Giovanna’s death in 1382, she was succeeded by her cousin, Louis of Anjou, and the Prince of Orange once again asserted his independence through the marriage of his only daughter and heir, Marie, to a member of the Burgundian nobility, Jean de Chalon, Lord of Arlay. The House of Chalon were vassals of the Duke of Burgundy who was a great rival of his brother Louis of Anjou, so when the Prince of Orange died in 1393, his vast estates in Provence thus passed into a rival political camp. And so we need to switch families once again, and look at the House of Chalon.

seal of Jean de Chalon-Arlay

The Lords of Arlay were a junior branch of the counts of Chalon who were themselves a junior branch of the counts of Burgundy, one of the two successor states that formed in the north when the ancient Kingdom of Burgundy disintegrated in the 10th and 11th centuries. The overall family, one of those super-clans that medieval genealogists love to piece together, is known either as the Anscarids or the House of Ivrea, and they gave Europe not just this powerful Burgundian ruling clan, but also several kings of Italy in the 10th/11th centuries, and even spawned the royal dynasty of Castile and Leon in the early 12th century (known as the Casa de Borgoña), which went on to rule Aragon as well (as the House of Trastamara) until the early 16th century. The founder of this super-cluster, Count Anscar, came from a region of Burgundy near Dijon, and in the 880s, he and his brother Fulk, Archbishop of Reims, tried to install their kinsman, Guy of Spoleto, on the Frankish throne. Failing that, Anscar went with Guy to Italy where the latter was crowned King of Italy in 889, and in thanks, the new king created Anscar margrave, or marcher lord, of Ivrea, a town that guarded the important passes across the Alps from France into Italy.

The next three generations of Anscarids increased their hold over northern Italy, and several were crowned king. The last of these, Adalberto, was deposed by the Emperor Otto in 961, and retreated to his wife’s estates back in Burgundy. There is some confusion around Gerberga’s identity and possessions, but ultimately her son Otto-William inherited the County of Mâcon, one of the southernmost districts of what was now formally the Duchy of Burgundy, part of the Kingdom of France; and the lordship of Besançon, one of the chief towns on the far side of the River Saône, a river that divided Burgundy into east and west. In about 972, Gerberga remarried Henri, Duke of Burgundy, the brother of the King of France, who adopted her son as his heir, and although Otto-William was unable to successfully claim the Duchy of Burgundy, he was able to use his connections to the Emperor in Germany to proclaim his lands east of the Saône—those around Besançon—as its own separate County of Burgundy. In later generations this county even asserted its independence from the Empire, and earned the nickname ‘Free County’, which stuck, and to this day, this region of France is known as the ‘Franche-Comté’.

Otto-William’s elder son, Guy, founded a line of counts of Mâcon, which lasted for a century; the second son, Renaud, continued as Count of Burgundy. Renaud’s grandsons might be called the ‘greatest generation’ of this family: the eldest, Renaud II, died on the First Crusade, in 1097, as did the second son, Etienne I ‘Tête-Hardi’ (‘Headstrong’) in 1102; the third son, Raimond, went to fight the Moors in Spain and in 1087 married Princess Urraca of Castile and Leon and was named Count of Galicia. His sister, Berta, was possibly one of the later queens of Urraca’s father, Alfonso VI, but this is uncertain. Urraca herself later became Queen of Castile, Leon and Galicia in her own right, and her and Raimond’s son Alfonso VII founded the House of Burgundy in Castile, as above. But this Burgundian ‘greatest generation’ had two more brothers: Hugues, whose election to the see of the Archbishopric of Besançon in 1085 helped solidify this region’s independence from the rest of Burgundy (and thus France); and Guy, who was Archbishop of Vienne from 1088, then elected Pope Calixtus II in 1119. Pretty good for one generation of fairly middle-ranking nobles.

The main line of counts of Burgundy continued for a few more generations, then passed the County by marriage to the Emperor, Frederick Barbarossa, in 1156 (and then on to other families, notably Merania, see below). A younger branch ruled the County of Mâcon and added the County of Chalon, a bit to the north, by marriage in 1186. Chalon-sur-Saône was an ancient capital of the Celtic Aedui people, and was given the name Cabillonum by the Romans (probably from the Gallic word for horse). It later became one of the capitals of the ancient Kingdom of Burgundy, from the 6th century, an early seat of a Christian bishop, and remained one of the most important towns and crossroads at the centre of the Duchy of Burgundy. It formed a separate county from the late 8th century.

the division between the duchy and the county of Burgundy, with Chalon on the Saône

The most famous member of this new House of Chalon was Jean I, known either as ‘the Old’ or ‘the Wise’. In 1236 he arranged the marriage of his eldest son Hugues to Adelaide of Merania, Countess of Burgundy, and began calling himself Count of Burgundy once more, though really he ruled it in his young daughter-in-law’s name. A year later, he ceded the County of Chalon and other properties on the right bank of the Saône (ie, in ducal Burgundy) to the Duke of Burgundy (his father-in-law), and in exchange received the lordship of Salins, in the Free County of Burgundy, and several other important castles. Salins was one of the most important sources of salt in the region (hence its name, from sel in French) and brought him vast wealth. He and his descendants were allowed to keep the title ‘Count of Chalon’ though they no longer possessed it.

one of the ancient salt manufacturies in Salins (photo Christophe Finot)

Jean de Chalon purchased forests on the slopes of the Jura mountains in the eastern parts of the County to supply fuel for the saltworks, and built the château of Nozeroy halfway between to serve as a fortified residence from which to watch over the roads for the supply and the trade with nearby districts. It became the dynasty’s principal residence and is known as the ‘Pearl of the Jura’. It was rebuilt on a grander scale in the 1430s by Prince Louis de Chalon (see below), and would be the main seat of the court of the princes of Orange in the 15th century. It was grand enough to host the meetings of the local estates of Franche-Comté. In the 16th century, however, the family base was moved to Arlay, and Nozeroy was mostly dismantled.

reconstruction drawing of Nozeroy

The House of Chalon thus reclaimed the title ‘Count Palatine’ (a count with semi-royal powers) of Burgundy, but not for very long. Jean the Old’s great-grandson Robert died in 1315 as a teenager, and his sister Jeanne took the County in marriage to the House of France, as queen-consort to Philip V. For good measure, her sister Blanche had married the King’s younger brother, Charles, who succeeded him as king. Both sisters were caught up in the Tour de Nesle Affair of 1314; Blanche was found guilty of adultery and Jeanne of being complicit in it.

By this point there were several cadet branches of the House of Chalon: one line were counts of Auxerre and Tonnerre (in the northwest borderlands of the Duchy of Burgundy) until 1424; another were lords of Montaigu (in the southern part of the County of Burgundy) until 1373. Still another was founded by Jean, one of the youngest of the (many) sons of Jean ‘the Old’. He was born from a third marriage, and while a younger brother, Hugues, was given a great position in the church—first as Prince-Bishop of Liège, 1295, then as Prince-Archbishop of Besançon, 1301—Jean was married to a daughter of the Duke of Burgundy (Hugues IV) who brought as a dowry the lordship of Viteaux in the Duchy, and he was given military command over his brother’s episcopal territories in Liège. Jean was also given one of his father’s newer castles, Arlay, which became his seat.

Arlay had been a Roman town and later a centre of settlement of the Burgundian tribes, situated as it was on an important salt road where it crossed the river Seille (pretty much right in the very centre of the Free County). Its ancient fortification was rebuilt as a château by Jean ‘the Old’ and remained a family stronghold until its destruction was ordered by the French king in 1637. A later château of Arlay was built in the 18th century at the foot of the hill by the heirs of the Chalon family, first Gand-Villain, then Brancas-Lauragais (and the castle is sometimes called the château Lauragais), then the Arenbergs in the 19th century, and today is held by the counts of Laguiche, who maintain one of the most prized vineyards in the region.

the ruins of Arlay, above the vineyards (photo M.Minderhoud)

Jean I de Chalon-Arlay’s second son, Jean, maintained the family connection with the high episcopacy, first as Prince-Bishop of Basel, 1325, then Bishop of Langres, one of the six ecclesiastical peers of France. The family then kept a fairly low, regional, profile until 1386 when Jean III, Lord of Arlay, married the heiress Marie des Baux, Princess of Orange, from above. He added her vast patrimony to his own, and quartered her arms with his (her blue cornet on gold; his gold band on red), but they also added an escutcheon for the County of Geneva (gold and blue checks) which she claimed through her mother. They never took over the lands of the Counts of Geneva (mostly to the south of the city and lake), which were sold by the other heirs to the dukes of Savoy in the early 15th century.

Chalon arms quartered with Orange and Geneva overall

The princes of Orange were thus now firm allies of the dukes of Burgundy (who were by now the counts of Burgundy as well). In the first decades of the 15th century, Jean and Marie’s son, Louis de Chalon, Prince of Orange, led troops against the Duke of Burgundy’s rivals, the Armagnac party (or supporters of the Duke of Orléans) in the far south of France, and against the Countess of Holland in the Low Countries. He also fought for his mother’s rights to the County of Geneva, and failed, and also fell foul of the Duke of Burgundy when he was appointed Vicar of the Empire in the County of Burgundy by Emperor Sigismund, which the Duke saw as an encroachment on his own rights there. When Louis de Chalon retired from politics in 1435, he was trusted by no one, and a will he made before he died in 1463 managed to confuse the succession for future generations by naming the children of his second marriage over those of the first. At the time, this was ignored, but we will return to it later.

Louis de Chalon, Lord of Nozeroy, a younger son of Prince Louis, in the robes of the Order of the Golden Fleece

The eldest son and heir, Guillaume VII, Prince of Orange, left a much more impressive legacy. As a warrior he accompanied Charles, Duke of Orléans, in his conquest of Milan in 1446, then in the 1460s fought with Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, in his war against Liège. He abandoned his Duke at a key moment, however, and his lands in Burgundy were temporarily confiscated. Therefore focusing on his lands in Provence, he re-organised the government of the Principality of Orange, and notably, in 1470, created a separate supreme law court, or parlement. This was annoying to the French king, Louis XI, whose jurisdiction in the region—through the Parlement of Grenoble—was threatened. When Guillaume de Chalon joined his brother-in-law, François II, Duke of Brittany, in fighting to maintain Breton independence, he was defeated in battle by French troops, and arrested by the King’s agents. He was held for two years in a royal prison in Lyon, until in 1474 he agreed to swear allegiance to the King of France for his principality, agreed to submit his Parlement of Orange to the jurisdiction of the Parlement of Grenoble, and to pay a ransom of 40,000 gold écus. He was allowed to retain regalian rights, such as coining money and pardoning criminals, as well as the right to use ‘gratia dei’ on his seals and coins (as if he was a sovereign). Jurists at the time argued that this recognition of French suzerainty was legally invalid, since Orange had always been a vassal of the Count of Provence, which in 1474 was still independent of the French Crown (but only for another 6 years, as it turned out). In any case, Guillaume VII died a year later.

coinage for the principality of Orange, possibly from era of Guillaume VII

His son, Jean II (or Jean IV of Chalon-Arlay), not only Re-asserted his independence as Prince of Orange but also reclaimed the family’s lands in the Free County of Burgundu after the death of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy (killed in battle in 1477). He stayed loyal to the heiress of the late Duke, Marie of Burgundy, and worked with her new husband, Maximilian of Austria, to keep Burgundy from falling entirely into the hands of the French king—for which his estates were confiscated again and he was legally hanged in absentia. Maximilian then sent Orange to the court of his uncle, François II, Duke of Brittany, to help the Austrian archduke (now a widower) obtain the hand of the Breton duke’s heir, Anne. Jean de Chalon helped his uncle put down an internal rebellion in Brittany and was awarded some lordships there, including Lamballe. Anne of Brittany’s marriage was hotly contested, and Jean himself was at one point considered, as he was himself heir presumptive to the still independent duchy. To boost his claims, he added the Breton ermine pattern to his coat-of-arms. He soon added another heraldic quarter, the red lion of Luxembourg, due to his marriage in 1483 to a different heiress, Philiberte de Luxembourg-Ligny, whose family links were very much aligned with those of the House of Chalon, as long-time intermediaries between France and the Holy Roman Empire. Philiberte brought as her dowry the County of Charny, a significant fief in the Duchy of Burgundy, thus augmenting those of the Chalon-Arlay on the other side of the Saône in the Free County.

the arms of Jean II de Chalon, Prince of Orange, which add Brittany in 2 quarters and Luxembourg overall

After Duke François’ death in 1488, the Prince of Orange stayed in Brittany to aid his young cousin Anne as a member of her ruling council. Facing defeat by the forces of the invading King of France, in 1491, he negotiated her marriage with the King (Charles VIII) to secure the peace. In the marriage contract, he renounced his own claims to the succession to the Duchy and was promised 100,000 livres and the job of Lieutenant-General of Brittany, a position he maintained until his death in 1502.

A son, Philibert, was born only three weeks before his father’s death. After leaving his mother’s tutelage, he tried to maintain his family’s precarious balance between French and Imperial power, between loyalties to the Valois and Habsburg dynasties. So it is perhaps ironic that he was the originator of the motto of the princes of Orange, ‘Je maintiendrai’ (‘I will maintain’), still used today by the royal family of the Netherlands. The original motto, however, was ‘Je maintiendrai Chalon’ which makes a bit more sense if you study the border nobility as I’ve done these past few decades: the one thing that trumps loyalty to any of the great powers is loyalty to your own dynasty—family was everything.

Philibert de Chalon, Prince of Orange

When Philibert de Chalon was about 20, he supposedly received a rude reception by King François I of France when he went to his court to complain about French raids into his territories in Orange. As a result of this snub, by 1523 he was firmly in the enemy camp, supporting Emperor Charles V’s campaigns, first against the remains of the Kingdom of Navarre in the Pyrenees, then leading troops in an invasion of the old family homeland, Provence, in 1524. The Prince of Orange took command of the Imperial armies besieging Rome in 1527, and forced the Pope to capitulate to the Emperor’s demands. In gratitude Charles V named the Prince Governor and Captain-General of Naples in 1528, but he died only two years later in the Battle of Gavinana, leading Imperial troops against the city of Florence. He was fatally shot in the chest by two arquebus balls; aged only 28.

Philibert de Chalon’s sister Claude had married another of Charles V’s generals, Heinrich III, Count of Nassau-Breda, who also fought in the Italian Wars, and whose family similarly had a history of walking the tightrope between Habsburg and Valois power in the border zones between France and the Empire. Claude predeceased her brother, but her son, René of Nassau, as principal heir, was charged with taking on the name and arms of the House of Chalon, which he did. But before we move forward to his story, we need to back up one last time and see how the House of Nassau, an ancient dynasty from the Rhineland, became so deeply entwined with the history of the Low Countries. (TO BE CONTINUED)

Rene de Chalon, or Rene of Nassau, Prince of Orange

The Howards: Premier peer of the realm as Duke of Norfolk and Earl Marshal

One of the two hereditary posts remaining amongst the Great Offices of State in the United Kingdom is the Earl Marshal, held continuously by the Howard dukes of Norfolk since the late 17th century, and even before that, off and on since the late 15th century. Even earlier, it was a post inherited by their ancestors, the Mowbrays, and via a side-step, the Bigods and the Marshals of the early 12th century, whose very surname indicated the office they held. His office is symbolised by a golden baton with black tips. After 1660, the Howards held the premier non-royal peerage in England: the dukedom of Norfolk. Yet for many years successive dukes were not able to take up their seats in the House of Lords, nor exercise their duties as Earl Marshal. For not only were they the premier peers of the land, they were also the leading recusant family in England, steadfast to the old faith of Rome.

the 18th Duke of Norfolk as Earl Marshal at the funeral of Elizabeth II, September 2022 (photo Annabel Moeller for the House of Lords)

There are many, many, branches of the Howard family. Overall today they hold, besides the dukedom, 7 earldoms and 14 baronies (six of them held by Norfolk himself). The family tree includes a saint and two cardinals, plus two queens: Catherine Howard and Anne Boleyn if we count her as having a Howard mother. Besides well-known castles held by the ducal branch, there are some of the finest country houses in Britain built by the cadet branches: Audley End (the earls of Suffolk), Castle Howard (the earls of Carlisle), and numerous others. This post will focus solely on the main, ducal line, and the office of Earl Marshal.

The Earl Marshal of England (and since the 19th century of the United Kingdom) organises grand state functions, most notably royal funerals and coronations, as well as the State Opening of Parliament (in conjunction with the Lord Great Chamberlain). He oversees the College of Arms, the body that regulates the use of heraldry in the United Kingdom, and sits as judge of the High Court of Chivalry—very active in the 17th century, but dormant since about 1750, with one or two notable exceptions. There were similar offices for the kingdoms of Scotland (the Keith family, Earl Marischal, until attainted as Jacobites in 1715); and of Ireland (until 1697). Today the Lord Lyon performs the function of regulator of heraldic affairs north of the border in Scotland.

the High Court of Chivalry in 1809

A marshal was initially a king’s stable master, in charge of keeping his horses in order and overseeing the army of equerries and grooms who worked in the royal stables. He was initially junior to the comes stabuli, the lord of the stables, the Constable. The Germanic words marha schalk (horse keeper / servant) first moved into French, as maréchal, which became a term for a military commander, which then moved back into German and English. In France in particular, the top commanders of the army were known as Marshals of France; while in Germany, the head of the royal household became known as the Hofmarshall (with similar words used for the Danish and Swedish courts), more equivalent to the English Lord Steward. It’s interesting to see how this word evolved in so many different directions. In England, a separate office evolved, Master of the Horse, from the 14th century, when the job of Marshal of the King’s Horses became devoted instead to regulating court ceremonial and elements of chivalry, and became known simply as the Lord Marshal.

An early Anglo-Norman lord, Gilbert, served in the English royal household as Royal Serjeant and Marshal to Henry I. When he died in 1129, his office was given to his son, John FitzGilbert. He began sometimes to use Marshal as a surname. His elder son John succeeded him as the King’s Marshal and was in turn succeeded by his younger brother in 1194: William Marshal (or sometimes ‘the Marshal’) was one of the most prominent nobles of the reigns of Henry II, Richard I, John I and Henry III, for whom he served as regent in his early years, famously known as ‘the best knight that ever lived’, and rewarded with an earldom, Pembroke, in 1199. His family rose and fell with great speed—the earldom of Pembroke passing through all five of his sons in turn—and the office of Lord Marshal (or Marshal of the Court) passed via his daughter to the Bigod family, great landowners in East Anglia.

the arms of William Marshal

Roger Bigod was a Norman lord who established his family in Norfolk, near the town of Thetford where he founded a priory. In about 1100 he was given permission by the king to build some castles just across the border in Suffolk, notably Bungay on the river Waveney, and Framlingham a bit further to the south. Bungay retained its form as a fortress for centuries, seized by the crown in about 1300, but given to the Howards in 1483, who kept it until the 20th century—until it was given to the town as a castle ruin in 1987. Framlingham, on the other hand, was transformed by the Bigods into a proper dynastic seat by the 13th century, and continued to be expanded and modernised by subsequent owners in the Mowbray and Howard families in the 15th and 16th centuries. As the main seat of their power, Howards expanded the park, added a mere or lake, and re-clad its facades in more fashionable brick. But it was confiscated several times in the tumultuous Tudor century—and perhaps ironically, or deliberately, served as a prison for Catholic priests and recusants under Elizabeth I in the 1580s—until it was returned, mostly derelict, by King James in 1613. One of the Howard cadets, the Earl of Suffolk, sold the castle in 1635, and in 1636 it was given to Pembroke College, Cambridge, who built workhouses within its crumbling walls. In 1913 Framlingham Castle was given to the state and today is looked after by English Heritage.

Bungay Castle (photo Scott Anderson)
Framlingham Castle (photo Squeezyboy)

The Bigod family died out in 1306, and their lands defaulted to the Crown. Edward II then bestowed the estates and castles to his brother, Thomas of Brotherton, who was then created Earl of Norfolk in 1312, and Lord Marshal—now called ‘Earl Marshal’—in 1316. He was ultimately succeeded by his daughter, Margaret of Brotherton, Countess of Norfolk. Interestingly, she seems to be the only woman to have held the office of Earl Marshal, and was held in such esteem by Richard II that she was created Duchess of Norfolk in 1397, but died only a year and a half later. Her sons from two marriages having predeceased her, she too was succeeded by a daughter, Elizabeth de Segrave, 5th Baroness Segrave, who took all these properties in East Anglia—and the precious royal Plantagenet blood of her grandfather in her veins—by marriage into the House of Mowbray.

Thomas of Brotherton, Earl of Norfolk and Earl Marshal (here ‘Thomas comte marechal’)

The Mowbrays, another Norman noble family, were established primarily further to the north, in Lincolnshire and Yorkshire. But from 1349 John, 4th Baron Mowbray, was married to the Segrave heiress, whose lands were based in the East Midlands, and in 1383 their son Thomas succeeded to both baronies, then rose in rank as Earl of Nottingham, and was appointed Earl Marshal, before being created Duke of Norfolk alongside his grandmother in 1397.

Thomas Mowbray is named Earl Marshal by Richard II

Thomas Mowbray soon quarreled with the King, however, the title was rescinded in 1399, and he died in exile, but the title was restored to his son John in 1425. Two more John Mowbrays succeeded as dukes of Norfolk in the 15th century, with Framlingham Castle as their chief centre of operations. As close kin to the Plantagenets, they sometimes quartered their Mowbray white lion on red with the Brotherton arms, that is, the three gold lions of England on red, with a white (or silver) three-point label at the top which indicates a junior branch. Sometimes they used just the Brotherton arms alone, a real indication of proximity to the throne and royal power.

Brotherton arms, as borne by Thomas Mowbray

In 1476, the 4th Duke of Norfolk died leaving just a daughter, Anne. Two years later, aged only 5, she married Richard, Duke of York, the younger son of King Edward IV. They were re-created Duke and Duchess of Norfolk. But she died in 1481, and he disappeared into the Tower in 1483—a new king, Richard III, was proclaimed. One of the Mowbray co-heirs, Viscount Berkeley, had already been paid off, but the other coheir, Sir John Howard, a son of Margaret Mowbray, secured the vast Brotherton-Mowbray-Segrave succession due to his support of Richard’s usurpation. The Howards would hold on to this position of close proximity to the royal family—for good or ill—for the next several centuries.

But the Howards themselves did not have a long pre-eminent noble pedigree. Unlike almost all other magnates at court, they had no pretensions to Norman antecedents in the male line. So they wove alternative origin stories, and made themselves sound much more English—not Norman—as descendants of Anglo-Saxon warriors. An early claim put forward in the 16th century was that they descended from the Howarth family, landowners in Rochdale in Lancashire (or perhaps Hawarth in Yorkshire). It was conjectured that this name came from haga worth, a settlement near a hawthorn hedge. One Osbert Howard de Haworth was Keeper of the King’s Buckhounds in the 12th century and was thought to have been an ancestor. Later genealogists, especially in the 19th century, tied the Howards to a much older progenitor, Hereward the Wake, a folk hero outlaw who lived in the 11th century and famously tried to defend East Anglia against the Norman invasion. His name suggests a Germanic warrior (a here ward, a leader of men). Some genealogies have linked him to the Mercian royal family, or to Oslac an Anglo-Saxon ealdorman of York. Modern researchers have proposed instead he was related to Danes, as nephew of Brand, abbot of Peterborough, one of the chief sites defended by Hereward in about 1070.

Either of these are of course possible. According to records, however, the first identifiable ancestor is Sir William Howard, a prominent lawyer and judge from the area near King’s Lynn in Norfolk, who rose to prominence in the 1270s and was named one of the justices of the Common Pleas in 1297. He held lands in Wiggenhall, just south of Lynn, and purchased the nearby manor of East Winch in 1298. His first marriage solidified his social rise, by connecting him to the family of Ufford, magnates from Suffolk (and soon to be created earls of Suffolk, 1337). Their son was named Sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk and Governor of Norwich, and obtained a position at court too, as Gentleman of the Bedchamber of Edward I. He moved the family even closer to royal circles by marrying Joan de Cornwall a daughter of an illegitimate son of Richard, Earl of Cornwall, younger brother of Henry III.

Sir William Howard, drawn from a stained glass window in East Winch

As the 14th century progressed, the Howards continued to accumulate lands in Norfolk, Suffolk and Essex, and served as MPs or in the military. Sir Robert Howard fought with the 2nd Duke of Norfolk (John Mowbray) in France, and became his brother-in-law in 1420. It was his son, John, who scooped up his mother’s vast inheritance (and importantly the right to bear the royal arms of England) and was named Duke of Norfolk in the summer of 1483. He had already served as Earl Marshal, as a deputy for his Mowbray cousin at a tournament in 1467. A loyal Yorkist, he was named Treasurer of the Royal Household by Edward IV in 1468, and a member of the King’s Council, then raised to the peerage as Baron Howard in 1470, and even a Knight of the Garter in 1472—a key sign of royal favour for someone not quite yet of magnate status. Once he inherited the Mowbray lands in 1483, John Howard was therefore also Baron Mowbray, Baron Segrave, and Earl Marshal in his own right. He acted as Earl Marshal at the funeral of Edward IV and the coronation of Richard III, where he bore the royal crown and his son (created Earl of Surrey in his own right at the same time) carried the Sword of State.

John Howard, 1st Duke of Norfolk

The first Duke of Norfolk had been born and raised at Stoke by Nayland, one of the newer Howard properties (since the early 15th century) closer to the southern borders of Suffolk, but soon took up residence in Framlingham. I haven’t been able to find much information about the original house at Stoke (aka Tendring Hall). He added the arms of the Mowbrays and the Brothertons (ie, England, ‘differenced’) to his own. King Richard lavished upon him even higher offices that year: Lord High Admiral of England, Admiral of Ireland and Admiral of Aquitaine (though any hopes of regaining England’s lost continental possessions were swiftly fading by this point). Two years later Norfolk led the vanguard at the Battle of Bosworth Field and was slain alongside his king and cousin.

The new king, Henry VII, put the late Duke’s son and heir, Thomas Howard, into the Tower of London, and took away both titles, Norfolk and Surrey. But by the end of the 1490s, he was back in favour and highly involved in the royal government. He was restored to the earldom of Surrey in 1489, and named Lord High Treasurer in 1501. He even married his son Thomas to Lady Anne of York, sister-in-law to the King himself. When Henry VIII succeeded as king in 1509, the Earl of Surrey acted as Earl Marshal at his coronation; and when the young king went overseas to fight the French in 1513, it fell to Surrey to lead an army north to defend the borders against invading Scots. The battle of Flodden was so disastrous for Scotland—the King (James IV) himself was killed on the day—so Surrey was allowed to resume his father’s old title, Duke of Norfolk (from 1514), and honoured with an ‘augmentation’ to his coat of arms: the Howard arms consisted of a silver bend on red, surrounded by six ‘cross-crosslets fitchy’, to which was now added, on the bend, a Scottish lion, cut in half, with an arrow shot straight through its head. He also added the arms of the De Warrenne family—one of the greatest magnate dynasties of medieval England—the blue and gold checks of the old earls of Surrey.

the newly augmented Howard arms, with Howard, Brotherton, Warrenne and Mowbray, and a ducal coronet

Another of the new castles added to the Howard portfolio was Reigate, a seat of the Warrennes in Surrey, which at one point was the seat of Lord Howard of Effingham (the Admiral famous for defending England versus the Spanish Armada in 1588), who rebuilt the local former priory into a country house. The castle was mostly demolished in the English Civil War of the 1640s, and the house passed out of the family.

the remains of Reigate Castle in Surrey (photo Rjwilmsi)

The restored 2nd Duke of Norfolk continued to hold a central position in government as Lord High Treasurer, and died in 1524, just before things started to get fraught at the Tudor court.

Thomas Howard, 2nd Duke of Norfolk

His son the 3rd Duke continued to hold the office of Lord High Treasurer. As heir he had acted as Lord High Admiral (1513) and Lord Deputy of Ireland (1520). But from the mid-1520s he was increasingly out of favour, and, in trying to regain it, pressed for the downfall of his lowborn rival, Cardinal Wolsey, and the rise of his niece, his sister’s daughter, Anne Boleyn. When she succeeded in marrying the King and being crowned queen in 1533, Norfolk was restored as Earl Marshal (it had been the King’s best pal, Charles Brandon, since 1523), and his daughter Mary was wed to the King’s son, the Duke of Richmond—illegitimate, but some considered a potential heir in case Anne Boleyn failed to deliver a son. It was a good year for the Howards.

Thomas Howard, 3rd Duke of Norfolk, by Holbein, bearing the gold staff of the Earl Marshal

Things changed rapidly. In 1536, the Duke of Richmond died. Queen Anne and her brother George Boleyn were executed for treason, with the Duke of Norfolk, their uncle, presiding over the trial as Lord High Steward (an office that was appointed as need arose, not hereditary). Another rivalry intensified against the King’s new first minster, Thomas Cromwell, in particular over the efforts to reform the Church. Unlike his late niece, Norfolk was not keen on the reform ideas, and when, in the late 1530s, the King wavered in his own commitment, and Cromwell fell from power, Norfolk was there to swiftly supply another niece. The teen-aged Catherine Howard became Queen of England in July 1540, but by the end of 1541 she too had fallen foul of Henry VIII’s temper and was executed.

Catherine Howard, Queen of England

Still Norfolk survived, and in 1541 was appointed Lieutenant-General of the North, responsible for putting down Catholic unrest. In 1546 however, he and his son were arrested on the King’s orders, ostensibly for Surrey’s affront of daring to using the Brotherton arms in his banners without the mark of difference (the three silver labels). The increasingly ill Henry VIII feared that Surrey had ambitions to take the throne from young Prince Edward, reverse the Protestant reforms, and push away the Seymours, his precious son’s uncles and protectors. Indeed, the Earl of Surrey did have pretensions, with floods of Plantagenet blood coursing through this veins: not just via his father’s family and the Mowbrays, but through his mother’s family too, the Staffords (heirs of Edward III’s youngest son, Thomas of Woodstock). Surrey was executed in the Tower 19 January 1547, and the King himself died a few days later, an act of divine judgement perhaps, saving the 3rd Duke’s life. His titles were once more attainted and he was held in the Tower for six years until Princess Mary took the throne in 1553. Restored to his titles, he presided over Mary’s coronation, then died a year later.

Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, 1546, with his double dose of Plantagenet ancestry: the royal arms of Thomas of Brotherton to the left and Thomas of Woodstock to the right

Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, had been one of the most colourful figures at court, well known as a poet, a soldier, a brawler. When not at court, he lived at Kenninghall in Norfolk, near the old Mowbray heartland at Thetford, where the Priory now housed most of the Howard tombs. Kenninghall had been transformed from a modest manor house into a palace by the 2nd Duke. In the reign of Edward VI, while the ex-duke was in the Tower, it housed Princess Mary and Princess Elizabeth, and it was from here that Mary proclaimed the beginning of her reign in 1553. The Howard palace at Kenninghall was confiscated again later by Queen Elizabeth, who resided there sometimes herself. But in the 17th century it fell into ruin and was completely demolished in the 1640s. Today a few fragments survive, incorporated into other buildings.

Kenninghall Village marker (photo Keith Evans)

From 1554, the new Duke of Norfolk was the 17-year-old Thomas Howard, who recouped his grandfather’s dukedom, and retained the favour of Queen Mary. She saw his family as a pillar in her new project to return England back to its loyalty to Rome, and in 1554, he was honoured with the post of First Gentleman of the Chamber to the King-Consort, Philip of Spain, when he came to England for his marriage. In 1556, Norfolk too married, and well: Lady Mary FitzAlan, daughter of the Earl of Arundel, head of another prominent noble family that preferred the old church. Eventually she would prove to be a major heiress, but not yet, and she died only a year later, having given birth to one son, appropriately named Philip, as godson of Philip of Spain. The Duke remarried Margaret Audley, who was already an heiress (of Walden Abbey, in Essex, the future Audley End) and already a widow.

Thomas Howard, 4th Duke of Norfolk
Lady Mary FitzAlan, Duchess of Norfolk

The 4th Duke of Norfolk’s history is no less stormy than those of his predecessors. The reign of Elizabeth I started well for him, acting as Earl Marshal at the coronation of 1559 and being appointed to a position of trust and authority as Lieutenant-General of the North. And it was in the North that the Howard interests shifted somewhat in this period. The 4th Duke’s third wife was the widow of Thomas, 4th Baron Dacre of Gillesland, one of the pre-eminent families of Cumberland. When her Dacre son died in 1569 it was decided that her three daughters, co-heirs to the Barony of Dacre, would each marry one of her three Howard step-sons, which they did. The key Dacre property was Greystoke Castle, near Penrith, originally built in the 12th century and by the 1570s a possession of the Howards through this marriage. Falling to a side branch in the later 17th century, Greystoke Castle was enlarged and altered in the 1780s when it returned to the main line, then enlarged again in the 19th century when it became the seat of a separate junior branch once more. It is still held privately, and is run as a B&B and a venue for corporate events. The earldom of Greystoke in the Tarzan stories is, incidentally, fictional, and situated in Scotland.

Greystoke Castle, Cumberland, depicted in the late 18th century

Eventually the 4th Duke’s unwillingness to conform to the reformed Church of England and his collaboration in various plots to put Mary, Queen of Scots on the throne (perhaps with himself as her king-consort), landed him, like his father and his grandfather, in the Tower, and he was executed for treason in 1572.

The eldest son of the 4th Duke, his only child with Lady Mary FitzAlan, was Philip Howard. Queen Elizabeth restored some of his father’s lands, but not titles. In 1580, however, he inherited the vast estates and castles of the FitzAlan family and the Queen created him Earl of Arundel. He is either known as the 1st Earl, as a new creation, or the 13th, counting it as a continuation of his grandfather’s title (or in fact some sources consider him the 20th Earl counting from the original creation of 1138, making it the oldest still extant earldom in England).

The FitzAlans were originally from Brittany and came to England with the Normans. One son of the first Alan, William, was given lands in the marches between England and Wales, in Shropshire, while the younger son, Walter, went to Scotland and established a dynasty of hereditary stewards to early Scots kings—and eventually took the office as their surname, becoming the Stewarts, and later Stuarts. The earliest possessions of the English FitzAlans that passed to the Howards in the 1580s were the Shropshire castles of Oswestry and Clun. Both had been used by the FitzAlans mostly for defensive or storage purposes, not so much as residences. Clun was also used as a hunting lodge, but Oswestry was (and is) surrounded by a sizeable market town. Both were largely in ruins by the time they passed into Howard hands in the 1580s. They passed out of Howard hands in the 17th century, but Clun was re-purchased by a duke of Norfolk in 1894, and restored. Today it is open to visitors and managed by English Heritage.

Clun Castle, Shropshire, on the borders with Wales (photo Philip Halling)

The main area of FitzAlan power and wealth was not the Welsh borders, however. They also acquired Arundel Castle in Sussex along with the earldom of the same name (though it was in fact sometimes called the earldom of Sussex) in the mid-13th century. The castle has remained in family hands ever since and remains the chief seat of the Howard family. The original motte and bailey castle, which took its name from the dell or valley of the river Arun, was expanded numerous times over the centuries, notably by the 11th Duke in the 1780s, and thoroughly renovated in the late 19th century. In recent years Arundel Castle has stood in for Windsor Castle in films like The Madness of King George or Young Victoria.

Arundel Castle, Sussex, overlooking the river Arun (photo Chensiyuan)

The FitzAlans also had a London residence, Arundel House, on the Strand, with gardens going down to the Thames and an adjacent wharf. Originally the townhouse of the bishops of Bath and Wells, after the dissolution of the monasteries it was given to various people before being sold to the 12th Earl of Arundel in 1549. In the 17th century, it notably housed several Howard protégés (scientists, artists, writers), and in the 1660s given as a meeting space for the Royal Society. It is thought this was the setting of the first performance of Thomas Tallis’ famous 40-voice motet, Spem in alium, in 1568. Arundel House was demolished in 1678, and replaced in the late 19th century by new streets and buildings.

Arundel House in London, 1640s

Young Philip Howard was born in Arundel House and initially raised by moderate Protestant tutors. He nevertheless formally returned his allegiance to the Roman Church in 1584. When this became known at court, he tried to flee to the Continent, but was arrested and held in the Tower for several years. He was put on trial in 1589, for having prayed for the success of the Spanish Armada, and his titles were attainted. The Queen refused to sign the death warrant of her cousin, however, and he remained her guest for another five years, dying while still in prison for his faith. He was therefore canonised in 1970 as one of England’s ‘Forty Catholic Martyrs’ from the era of the Reformation. In the 19th century, a chapel was built near Arundel Castle in Sussex, to honour the Virgin Mary and St Philip Neri, but in 1965 it was raised to the status of a cathedral, and soon after changed its name to Our Lady and St Philip Howard.

St Philip Howard, Earl of Arundel
Arundel Catholic Cathedral, seen from the castle (the older St Nicholas’s parish church in the centre describes itself on its website as being the in ‘Anglo-Catholic’ tradition) (photo Chensiyuan)

In the next reign, King James I began to restore favour to the Howards, first creating an earldom of Suffolk in 1603 for Philip Howard’s younger brother, Thomas, and then restoring the earldoms of Arundel and Surrey to Philip’s son Thomas. The family was returning to favour: his son was named Henry Frederick in honour of the King’s eldest son, and in 1613, Arundel was selected to escort the King’s daughter, Elizabeth, to her wedding to the Elector Palatine in Heidelberg—a significant event watched by Protestants all over Europe. Arundel himself formally re-joined the Church of England in 1615, but his commitment was fairly thin (and he returned to the Catholic faith later in life). In 1621 he was restored as Earl Marshal and acted in this capacity for the coronation of Charles I in 1626. As relates to this office, he also revived the Earl Marshal’s Court, or the High Court of Chivalry, as a more permanent institution in 1634, as part of the King’s plans to strengthen the court and regulation of the English nobility. It was extremely active for a few years, then abolished in 1640, and has since returned to its status of convening only when necessary, which has in fact been quite infrequent since the 19th century.

Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel (‘the Collector Earl’), by Rubens

Arundel fell out with the King in 1626 due to the unapproved marriage of his son (known as Lord Maltravers as heir, the usual subsidiary title of the FitzAlans) to the King’s cousin, Lady Elizabeth Stuart, daughter of the Duke of Lennox. The Earl spent some time in the Tower then was confined to house arrest. By the 1630s, he was back in favour, however, and was appointed Justice in Eyre north of the Trent (1634), Lord Lieutenant of Surrey (1635), and Lord Steward of the Household (1640). In the 1640s, he became estranged from the court again and left for a grand tour of Europe, where he collected great treasures—so much so that he is remembered now by the nickname ‘the Collector Earl’. The ‘Arundel Marbles’, one of the first great collections of Greek and Roman sculptures in England, were later donated to the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford.

While abroad, Thomas Howard was re-created Earl of Norfolk (1644), possibly with an eye to restoring the dukedom to his son, already making his name for himself in the House of Lords (created Baron Mowbray by writ of acceleration to allow him to take up a seat in Parliament before he succeeded to his father’s titles). But the Earl died abroad in Padua in 1646, and his son followed shortly after in 1652. A more long-term legacy of these generations was another great inheritance, this time in Yorkshire, which would become another main centre of Howard wealth and power now that many of their estates in East Anglia were lost. The Earl of Arundel’s wife, from 1606, was Lady Alathea Talbot, one of the three daughters and co-heiresses of the 7th Earl of Shrewsbury. A grand-daughter of Bess of Hardwick, the Countess of Arundel was a court favourite of Queen Anne of Denmark and herself a great collector of art—but also spent much of her life abroad due to her faith. She outlived her sisters, so by the 1650s was a peeress in her own right, as 13th Baroness Furnivall, 17th Baroness Strange of Blackmere,and 17th Baroness Talbot. In terms of land, she brought with her great estates in Yorkshire and Nottinghamshire.

Lady Alathea Talbot, Countess of Arundel, Baroness Furnivall, posed like a queen

Sheffield Castle in South Yorkshire, originally one of the properties of the Furnivall family, inherited by the Talbots, and erected into a grand country home in the early 16th century, was mostly dismantled during the Civil War in the 1640s. Little information exists as to how it looked. But other parts of the Manor of Sheffield became an important part of the Howard patrimony. Much of its remaining buildings were dismantled in the early 18th century, but a Turret House remains, in a residential area of Sheffield known as Norfolk Park (the former deer park, given to the city as it began to really develop in the mid-19th century). A large city park was opened by the Duke of Norfolk in 1848, and then formally given to the city outright in the 20th century. Remains of the manor itself have been leased to the city since the 1950s, and there are current plans to restore it as a tourist attraction.

Sheffield Manor ruins, drawn in 1819
Sheffield Manor Turret House today (photo Gregory Deryckere)

Just across the border to the east, in Nottinghamshire, Worksop Manor was also an estate of the Furnivall family, since the 1250s. It was rebuilt by the Talbot earls of Shrewsbury as one of their main country seats in the 1580s, and became one of the great house of the Elizabethan age. Like Sheffield Manor, Worksop passed to the Howards in the 1650s, along with one of the hereditary honours possessed by the Talbots, the right to give the sovereign a glove during the coronation and to support his right arm during processions in Westminster Abbey. In the early 18th century, the dukes of Norfolk doubled the size of the house and developed its gardens. This area of the northern end of Nottinghamshire became known as ‘the dukeries’ as it was home to four contiguous ducal estates: Norfolk, Newcastle, Kingston and Portland. In 1761 Worksop suffered a major fire; a truly palatial replacement structure was planned, but only one wing was completed by 1777, since the 9th Duke had no children and wasn’t very interested in his distant heirs. Eventually the building and its estate were sold to the duke next door, Newcastle, in 1838, who dismantled most of the buildings. Sold off again by the late 19th century, today Worksop is a well-known stud farm for thoroughbred horses.

Worksop Manor before the fire of 1761
the new Worksop, in the early 19th century

The ‘Collector Earl’ and his son, Henry Frederick, were both dead by the time of the Restoration of Charles II in 1660. There had long been talk about restoring the dukedom of Norfolk, and the King’s early reign was very much focused on reconciliation and restoring honour to some of England’s grandest and most ancient noble houses (several dukedoms are created in this period, much as they are, for similar reasons, by the King’s cousin, Louis XIV in France). There were issues however: not only were the Howards still Catholic, but the eldest son, Thomas (since 1652, Earl of Norfolk, Arundel and Surrey), was known to be mentally disabled, and in fact spent much of his life in an asylum in Padua. In some ways, perhaps this gave the King a good excuse to restore the dukedom in 1660 as he could be certain that this Thomas Howard would not stir up any political trouble. And so, after a nearly unanimous petition put forward by the House of Lords, the King restored the dukedom, after nearly a century. The new 5th Duke of Norfolk was also Earl Marshal, so his cousin, Henry Howard, 3rd Earl of Suffolk, served as acting Earl Marshal in the coronation of April 1661. But a few years later, in 1672, this office was awarded to the Duke’s brother and heir (also called Henry) and declared formally hereditary, which it has been ever since. The new acting Earl Marshal had himself been created Baron Howard of Castle Rising (a property very close to their original family home in Norfolk) in 1669, so that he could sit in the House of Lords, and in 1672, was elevated further as Earl of Norwich. In 1677 Henry Howard finally succeeded as 6th Duke of Norfolk, but had to remove himself from political circles in 1678 when the climate became very hot regarding Catholics and the hysteria of the Popish Plot, and he moved to Bruges.

Henry Howard, 6th Duke of Norfolk

Other family members made even more waves as leaders of the Catholic nobility. His brother, Philip, had lived abroad for many years, formally announcing his adherence to Catholicism in 1646 in Rome and joining the Dominican Order as a monk. In the 1650s he founded a new Priory in Bornem in the Southern Netherlands (south of Antwerp) and became its first prior; this, and the nearby nunnery in Vilvoorde, was intended as a place to train English priests and educate Catholic women. He also later rebuilt the English College in Rome. In 1662 he was recalled to the English court to serve as Grand Almoner for Queen Catherine of Braganza, but as anti-Catholic tensions rose in the 1670s, he once again left for the Low Countries, and then Rome, where he was named Bishop of Helenopolis in Bithynia, one of Rome’s titular seas (as it was in Asia Minor, Ottoman territory), then Cardinal in 1675, and Cardinal-Protector of England and Scotland in 1679. Rising further in the Roman hierarchy, he was appointed Camerlengo (1689-91), the chief financial officer of the College of Cardinals, before he died in 1694, in Rome.

Cardinal Philip Howard of Norfolk

Back in England, any attempt by the family to lay low was scuppered by the actions of the Duke’s uncle, William Howard, Viscount Stafford (a title he had been given after marrying another great heiress in 1640), whose active participation in the Popish Plot of 1678 was denounced by Titus Oates. He was tried by his peers in Parliament, and shamefully unsupported by any of the 8 Howard peers, except the Duke’s son, Baron Mowbray (though this may have had to do with internal family squabbles as Mowbray was angry at his father’s re-marriage to his long-term mistress the year before). Stafford was attainted and executed in 1680—like his predecessor, St Philip Howard, he is considered a Catholic martyr and was beatified in 1929.

William Howard, Viscount Stafford, as a young man (in Catholic black), by Van Dyck

The 6th Duke of Norfolk had sailed back in 1680 in time to vote against his uncle, and returned permanently by about 1683, but died soon after. His son Henry now took over as 7th Duke. It was he who did much to redevelop the family’s estates in the north of England. Having broken with his father over his relationship with a long-term mistress, which he considered damaging to the family’s relationship in society, the 7th Duke himself suffered social scandal as the result of a long adultery trial and eventual divorce from his wife, Lady Mary Mordaunt, in 1685 (she later remarried her lover, Sir John Germain). While he remained a Catholic in private, he publicly conformed, and restored his family’s position at court by not supporting the Catholic James II in 1689, and was rewarded with a seat on the Privy Council by William and Mary. He died in 1701, and the senior Howard titles passed to his nephew, Thomas, of Worksop.

Henry Howard, 7th Duke of Norfolk

The 8th Duke of Norfolk also married a wealthy heiress, Mary Shireburn, in 1709, though they had no children, and ultimately her chief estate, Stonyhurst Hall in Lancashire, was given by her heirs to the Jesuits, who opened Stonyhurst College in 1794 (transferring some of their former college from the Spanish Netherlands). The 8th Duke was Earl Marshal for the coronations of Queen Anne, George I and George II, though the function was actually carried out by his Protestant Howard cousins as deputies (first the 3rd Earl of Carlisle, then the 6th Earl of Suffolk, and finally the 4th Earl of Berkshire). In 1722, the Duke was briefly arrested under suspicion of supporting the Jacobites, but was soon released. In fact it was his wife who was a chief supporter, and she reportedly left him for being too weak in his faith. In contrast, his younger brother, Henry, was named to a Catholic bishopric in 1720, but died before taking up the post; another brother, Richard, was a canon in St Peter’s in Rome; while still another, Edward, was actually an active participant in the 1715 Jacobite uprising in supporter of a (Catholic) Stuart restoration. He escaped punishment due to his brother’s intervention and settled at Workop Manor safely far from court (while Arundel Castle remained the seat of the Duke).

Thomas Howard, 8th Duke of Norfolk, in coronation robes and with staff of Earl Marshal

In 1732, Lord Edward became the 9th Duke of Norfolk. Like his predecessors, he was nominally Earl Marshal, for the coronations of George II and George III, but as a Catholic could not carry out the functions of the office so again deputised his Howard cousins (two earls of Effingham then another earl of Suffolk). He set about rebuilding a new family residence in London—Arundel House on the Strand being a bit shabby—so he purchased two townhouses on St James’s Square, in a much more fashionable area next to the royal palaces, and developed a much grander Norfolk House, completed in 1752. Norfolk House was demolished in 1938, to make way for an office building, but some of the interiors, notably the music room, were preserved and are now on display in the Victoria & Albert museum.

Edward of Worksop, 9th Duke of Norfolk
Norfolk House, London, 1932, before it was demolished

In 1767, the Duke’s nephew and heir died, and he and his wife (Mary Blount, another fervent Catholic woman, for whom, apparently, Captain Cook named Norfolk Island north of New Zealand) became disinterested in completing their grand plans to re-develop Worksop into a country house on a palatial scale, as they were not particularly close to the distant cousin who would inherit the bulk of the Howard titles and estates. When the Duke died in 1777, the dukedom and most of the ancient earldoms and baronies passed to Charles Howard of Greystoke, while the earldom of Norwich and the barony of Castle Rising became extinct, and the baronies of Furnivall, Talbot and Strange of Blackmere, as well as Mowbray and Segrave, went into abeyance between multiple heirs, ultimately being divided between the Stourton and Petre families.

Charles Howard lived at Greystoke Castle in Cumbria. In 1777 he became Duke of Norfolk, earl of Norfolk, Arundel and Surrey, Baron Maltravers, and Earl Marshal of England. He also inherited the properties in Sheffield and Worksop, as well as Arundel Castle in Sussex. He died only a few years later, in 1786, and his son, also Charles, became the 11th Duke. He renounced Catholicism so he could hold political office, though he was vocal in his support for Catholic emancipation. He had no legitimate children (but several illegitimate children), so the title passed once again to a different branch.

Charles of Greystoke, 10th Duke of Norfolk
Charles, 11th Duke of Norfolk

The Howards of Glossop, in Derbyshire, just beyond the easternmost suburbs of Manchester, became a separate branch in the later 17th century. Like so much else in the north of England, this was part of the Talbot inheritance, having originally been a manor held by Basingwerk Abbey, then given to the Talbots at the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the 1530s. It also has an ancient Norman earthworks castle, just to the north of town, but this had been no more than a mound for centuries. In the 1730s, the Howards rebuilt an ancient manor house (formerly known as Royle Hall) located down in the valley of Glossop Brook (the Glossopdale), which flows out of the Peak District. Glossop Manor was used as a hunting lodge by the family in the 18th and early 19th centuries, but was rebuilt as a more permanent country estate by Baron Howard of Glossop (a second son of the 13th Duke, created baron in 1869) in the 1870s, then was sold to the local council in the 1920s, used as a school, then demolished in about 1950. Today its parklands form Manor Park in the town of Glossop.

Glossop Manor in the 19th century

Throughout the 18th century, the Howards developed Glossop as a major centre of the burgeoning Industrial Revolution, first with woollen mills, but later and much more intensely as a centre for cotton weaving. The location was ideal, with a fairly damp climate keeping the raw materials from drying out and ample running water in the surrounding hills to power the mills. By 1831 there were about 30 cotton mills in Glossopdale. And as is more interesting for our story here, the Howards were keen to make this a safe space for Catholic and other dissenting entrepreneurs. After Catholic Emancipation in 1829 they built a new Catholic church in Glossop, followed by other town improvements including a town hall in 1838 and a railway station in 1847—which still displays the Howard Lion above its main doors. The Glossop Estate was sold in 1925, but much of it was donated to the town the Howards built, with placenames remaining as a memory: Norfolk Square, Howardtown, Howard Park, and so on.

Glossop train station, with its Howard Lion (photo Alan Fleming)
the Howard Lion, Glossop (photo Clem Rutter)

The new Duke of Norfolk in 1815 was Bernard Howard of Glossop. He was thus Earl Marshal for the coronations of George IV, William IV and Victoria, though for the first of these in 1821 he had to deputise his Protestant brother, Henry Molyneux-Howard (who had adopted his mother’s surname after she inherited properties in Nottinghamshire: Tevershell and Wellow). He commemorated Catholic emancipation with a grand banquet, and was awarded the Order of the Garter in 1834 by William IV, an honour that had been denied his predecessors since the early 17th century (with the notable exception of the 7th Duke, appointed in 1685 by James II, himself of course a Catholic).

Bernard of Glossop, 12th Duke of Norfolk

In 1842, the 12th Duke was succeeded by his son, Henry (known for most of his life as Earl of Surrey), who was an active politician, and the first Catholic to sit in Parliament after emancipation as MP for Horsham (Sussex), 1829-32. He was appointed a Privy Councillor in 1837, and Treasurer of the Household, and officiated at the coronation of Queen Victoria as Earl Marshal in 1838—no longer needing a deputy. He also revived the claim, long dormant, to serve as Chief Butler of England, an office associated with the family’s former property at Kenninghall (restored to them, but soon to be sold in the 1870s), which carried the right to officiate at coronation banquets traditionally held in Westminster Hall. But the last of these banquets was held in 1821 and was seen as such a lavish expense that it has never been revived. As duke he retained a position in some of the Whig governments of Victoria’s reign, notably that of Lord John Russell in 1846-52 (where he served as Master of the Horse), then in the coalition government of Lord Aberdeen, 1853-54 (where he was Lord Steward of the Household). Like his father, he was given the Garter in 1848.

Henry, 13th Duke of Norfolk

The 13th Duke’s sons were also active in politics. The second son, Baron Howard of Glossop, was Vice-Chamberlain of the Household in the Russell administration of 1846, and a great supporter of the establishment of Catholic schools. The older son, Surrey, resigned his seat in Parliament in 1851 over proposed anti-Catholic legislation. So the Howards weren’t finished with their role as defenders of Catholicism in Britain yet. A second Howard cardinal emerges in this period as well: a cousin, Edward, became a papal diplomat in India, protector of the English College in Rome, and Cardinal from 1877.

Cardinal Edward Howard

The 14th Duke of Norfolk, who succeeded in 1856, added the surname Fitz-Alan formally to his own and replaced the old Mowbray lion with the FitzAlan lion in his coat of arms (fairly subtle: a gold rampant lion instead of a silver one). He and his wife, Augusta Lyons, daughter of a naval hero, built a villa in Bournemouth now known as the Norfolk Royale.

Henry FitzAlan-Howard, 14th Duke of Norfolk
Norfolk Royale, Bournemouth (photo Richard Higgs)

His reign as duke was short, and in 1860 he was succeeded by his very young son, Henry. The 15th Duke of Norfolk was Earl Marshal for the funeral of Queen Victoria, and for the coronations of Edward VII and George V; he was also Lord Lieutenant of Sussex from 1905. He continued the family tradition of supporting Catholic charities, especially in Sheffield (where he was mayor, 1895-97), and founded a college at Cambridge University to support Catholic students (St. Edmund’s) in 1896. He also supported the creation of Sheffield University in 1905 and served as its first Chancellor. The 15th Duke also was responsible for the construction of the neo-gothic Chapel of Our Lady and St. Philip Neri at Arundel, opened in 1873, which we’ve encountered above, as well as a new Catholic church in Norwich, 1877, which since 1976 has been the Catholic cathedral for that city in Norfolk.

Henry, 15th Duke of Norfolk

When the 15th Duke died in 1917 he was succeeded by his only surviving son (an older son, Philip had died in 1902), whose mother was heiress of a Scottish landed estate in Kirkudbrightshire (southwest Scotland), and the barony of Herries of Terregles (created for the Herries family in 1490 and passed to the Maxwells in the 1540s). The 16th Duke, Bernard Marmaduke FitzAlan-Howard, was thus also 12th Baron Herries after his mother died in 1945 (and took his curious second name from his Maxwell grandfather). This inheritance included Terregles House, long the seat of the Maxwells, another traditionally Catholic noble family. The old medieval tower house had been replaced in the late 18th century with a grand country house. The estates were sold off after World War I and the house in the 1930s (and was fully demolished in 1962). The Duke having no sons, the barony of Herries passed in succession to his daughters, the third (and still living) being Jane, 16th Baroness, married to the Marquess of Lothian, a conservative politician better known as Michael Ancram.

Terregles House, mid-19th century

The 16th Duke of Norfolk was Earl Marshal for the coronations of George VI and Elizabeth II and the State Openings of Parliament for many years until his death in 1975. For a family who has survived so much upheaval over so many centuries, it is interesting that the senior branch seems to have such trouble producing sons. So once again the ducal title passed to a cousin, Miles, from the sideline of Howard of Glossop established in the later 19th century.

the 16th Duke as Earl Marshal in 1937 for the coronation of George VI

Here again we have yet another estate being added to the list of formal seats of the family (Arundel being the constant, generation after generation). The 17th Duke’s father was the 3rd Baron Howard of Glossop, but his mother, Mona Stapleton, was 11th Baroness Beaumont (a title dating from 1309), and heiress of the Stapleton seat in North Yorkshire, Carlton Towers, near Selby. The earlier 17th-century manor house was encased in a grand Victorian Gothic Revival mansion built for Henry Stapleton, 9th Baron Beaumont, in the 1870s. The property had been in the hands of the Stapletons since much earlier in fact, and we see an owner from about 1300 serving as a steward in the household of Edward II. Like the Howards they were recusants, and there is evidence of their support for the Catholic Church all over this district. The 17th Duke inherited the house from his mother in 1971 (and her title), and lived there while his father lived at Arundel. Today Carlton Towers is the residence of the current duke’s younger brother and his family.

Carlton Towers (photo Drew Bates)

The 17th Duke of Norfolk had a long career in the army, then took up the role of Earl Marshal after 1975. As a prominent Catholic lord, he represented Queen Elizabeth II at the installation services of Pope John Paul II in 1978. He married a cousin, Anne Constable Maxwell, whose father also served in Rome, as a Papal Chamberlain.

Miles Stapleton-FitzAlan-Howard, 17th Duke of Norfolk, as Earl Marshal for Elizabeth II

In 2002, the Duke of Norfolk and Baron Beaumont died, and was succeeded by his son, Edward, 18th Duke (b. 1956), who is also Earl of Arundel, Earl of Surrey, Earl of Norfolk, Baron Maltravers, Baron FitzAlan, Baron Clun and Baron Howard of Glossop. He is also head of a family that is spread vastly across the country, with the still extant lines of the earls of Suffolk and Berkshire (merged since the 1740s), the earls of Carlisle, and the Howards of Greystoke and Penrith. As Earl Marshal, the Duke of Norfolk reminded the world of his family’s prominent historical role at the funeral of Elizabeth II in 2022, and now for the coronation of King Charles III in May 2023.

the 18th Duke of Norfolk as a young man at Carlton Towers (photo Allan Warren)
commemorative stamp issued in 1984, that shows nicely the full heraldic ‘achievement’ of the Howards of Norfolk. Note the cross gold batons of the office of Earl Marshal

(images Wikimedia Commons)

The Dukes of Ancaster and the one-fourth share of the Lord Great Chamberlain

If you are watching the coronation of King Charles III this Spring, chances are you have been confused by mention of the ‘shared office’ of Lord Great Chamberlain of the United Kingdom, one of the two Great Officers of State that remains hereditary, alongside the Earl Marshal (the Duke of Norfolk), and one of the chief participants in the ceremonies on the day. You may have even heard that this ‘shared office’ is due to the split inheritance of the Duke of Ancaster.

the Lord Great Chamberlain (left) and the Earl Marshal (right), at the State Opening of Parliament of 2013

Who was the Duke of Ancaster and why is his hereditary office currently held by someone called Baron Carrington?

Rupert, 7th Baron Carrington (whose surname, confusingly, is Carington, with one r), was nominated to fill the post of Lord Great Chamberlain following the death of Elizabeth II in September 2022. He will fill this role until the reign ends, when it will pass back to the family of the Marquess of Cholmondeley (who held it in the previous reign). Carrington’s family possess a ¼ share of the office, while the Cholmondeleys hold a ½ share. The other ¼ is held by the heiress of the last Earl of Ancaster, the 28th Baroness Willoughby de Eresby. The formal term for this collective hereditary portioning of an office is that it is held ‘in gross’. It is the result of the complicated succession of 1779 that followed the death of the next-to-last Duke of Ancaster, Robert Bertie. The dukedom and other titles passed to an uncle, some of his private fortune passed to his illegitimate daughter, while the barony of Willoughby and the office of Great Lord Chamberlain went into abeyance between his two sisters. It is the heirs of these sisters who share the office today.

The office of Lord Great Chamberlain is a purely ceremonial position, and is different to the office of Lord Chamberlain. They were once the same, the chief courtier in charge of running the monarch’s chamber (bedchamber) and by extension, the household, but since the 14th century, his actual duties have been carried out by a deputy, who became known as the Lord Chamberlain. Today the Lord Chamberlain, a non-hereditary post but still always someone with a title, is the senior officer of the royal household, responsible for organising all day-to-day ceremonial activities, diplomatic visits, garden parties, award ceremonies. Since 2021 this has been Lord Parker of Minsmere. The higher ranking office, the Great Chamberlain, has been hereditary (for the most part) since the 1130s, and is responsible for organising the great state events of the monarchy, coronations and funerals, along with the Earl Marshal. At the coronation, he dresses the sovereign on the day and is involved in the investiture of royal insignia during the ceremony. He carries the crown at the State Opening of Parliament, and bears a white staff, a symbol of his office, along with a golden key—always a symbol of the office of chamberlain, in any European monarchy, as the courtier with the keys to the monarch’s private spaces. We’ve seen these moments on television when the Lord Great Chamberlain raises his white staff to signal the king’s messenger, ‘Black Rod’, that he should go knock on the door of the House of Commons to summon them to attend the sovereign.

the wedding of the Duke and Duchess of York, 1893, with the Lord Great Chamberlain at left displaying clearly his key of office

The office of Lord Great Chamberlain was for centuries held by the De Vere family, earls of Oxford from 1141 (with some interruptions; but fully confirmed as hereditary by Queen Mary in 1553). When the 18th Earl died in 1625, there was some uncertainty with his succession, but within the year it was decided that the earldom would pass to his male heir, but the office of Great Chamberlain would pass to his closer heir via a female, Robert Bertie, Baron Willoughby the Eresby. He was at about the same time raised in rank as 1st Earl of Lindsey.

So who was Robert Bertie?

The Bertie family (pronounced ‘Barty’) had a family legend—as all these great aristocrats do—that they came to Britain with the Saxons, originating in ‘Bertiland’, said to be in Prussia, though no such place name exists (some have speculated it refers to Bartelsdorf in East Prussia, now in Poland). In any case, a certain Richard Bertie, son of a stone mason, appears in Tudor history as captain of Hurst Castle in Hampshire, and as master of the horse of Catherine Willoughby, the widow of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. Catherine was herself a major heiress, particularly in Lincolnshire; her father, William, 11th Baron Willoughby de Eresby, was thought to have held thirty manors in Lincolnshire and thirty more in East Anglia. His barony dated from 1313, centred on the manor of Eresby in Spilsby, Lincolnshire (his title appended ‘de Eresby’ to keep it distinct from the Barony of Willoughby de Broke (1491), based in Wiltshire). The Willoughbys themselves came from a village of that name a bit further east in Lincolnshire, at the foot of the hills known as the Lincolnshire Wolds (the village name itself comes from Norse for ‘farm by the willow tree’), in the northern part of the county known as Lindsey. They acquired the manor of Eresby in 1310—its ancient manor house was rebuilt in the 1530s by Brandon, but was destroyed by fire in 1769, leaving little remains today.

Catherine Willoughby, Duchess of Suffolk

A favourite of King Henry VIII, in 1516 the 11th Lord Willoughby was married to the chief lady in waiting and confidante of Queen Katherine of Aragon, Maria de Salinas, and was given as a wedding gift, the castle of Grimsthorpe in the more southerly part of Lincolnshire known as Kesteven, which included a manor called Ancaster. After her father’s death, Catherine Willoughby became a ward of Charles Brandon, and eventually his fourth wife. In the 1540s he transformed Grimsthorpe Castle from a medieval castle (originally been built by an early Earl of Lincoln in the mid-12th century, and confiscated from Lord Lovell by Henry VII) into a splendid residence worthy of a duke. He used building materials from the nearby Abbey of Vaudey, recently secularised. It was grand enough to host royalty: Henry VIII and Marie of Guise, Queen of Scots, both stayed there. It would be rebuilt in the early 18th century to celebrate the creation of the Dukedom of Ancaster, as a Baroque palace, the last major building of John Vanbrugh, and a Capability Brown park was added in the 1770s. It is still in private hands today.

Grimsthorpe Castle, Lincolnshire

The Duke of Suffolk died in 1545 and about 8 years later, the Duchess of Suffolk married her master of the horse, Richard Bertie. Both were devoted Protestants, so early in the reign of Mary I fled to the Continent, first to the Rhineland, and then to Poland. A son was born on their travels so they named him Peregrine, as a pilgrim (‘peregrinus’ a foreign traveller).

Richard Bertie and Catherine Willoughby on their peregrinations, with their daughter and a wetnurse

Returning to England in the reign of Elizabeth I, Richard Bertie became an MP for Lincolnshire, then Justice of the Peace for Lindsey and High Sheriff of Lincolnshire, 1564-65. He apparently tried to claim a seat in the House of Lords in his wife’s name (as Baroness Willoughby) but was rebuked. His son was more successful when his mother died in 1580, and Richard Bertie himself died in 1582.

Peregrine Bertie, now 13th Baron Willoughby de Eresby, served as a diplomat for Elizabeth I, for example to the court of Denmark, but became much better known as a soldier. He served as a commander of English forces sent to the Netherlands to aid the Dutch in their fight against Spanish rule, and was named governor of Bergen-op-Zoom in 1586. He later fought for the Huguenot cause in France and aided Henry IV in his conquest of his kingdom in the 1590s. He ended his career as governor of Berwick and Warden of the East March in 1598 and died in 1601.

Peregrine Bertie, 13th Baron Willoughby de Eresby

Lord Peregrine had married in 1577 Lady Mary de Vere, daughter of the 16th Earl of Oxford, the Lord Great Chamberlain of England (her brother was the volatile 17th Earl, the one some have suspected to be the ‘real’ William Shakespeare). Already having quartered his Bertie arms with Willoughby, the family would eventually also add those of De Vere, once their children became heirs of her family after 1625. The very old Willoughby arms were azure ‘fretty’ (a criss-cross pattern) on gold, while the (I assume) new Bertie arms sported an unusual trio of horizontally arranged battering rams, with blue ram’s heads. The De Vere coat-of-arms, as one of the oldest in the Kingdom, was quite simple: red and gold quarters, with a silver star (or ‘mullet’) in the first quarter.

Bertie of Lindsey arms, with Bertie, Willoughby and Vere on top (this is from the later period, after the creation of the dukedom), families represented on the bottom row are Montagu, Wynn and Brownlow

As we’ve seen, their son Robert Bertie inherited the office of Great Lord Chamberlain and was created Earl of Lindsey. Lindsay, the northern third of Lincolnshire, had once been an independent Anglo-Saxon kingdom, absorbed by Northumbria in the 7th century. Its name reminds us that most of this eastern coast of England was for much of the Middle Ages a mucky wetland, and this patch of higher ground became known as the Isle of Lind (-ey usually meaning island in Anglo-Saxon place names). Lind probably came from the Brittonic word for pool or lake, and the Romans named a town after it, Lindum Colonia, which eventually became Lincoln. Lindsey was a separate administrative unit within Lincolnshire until the administrative reforms of the 1970s when it disappeared.

the three historic ‘parts’ of Lincolnshire

The 1st earl of Lindsey had been raised at court; his godparents were none other than Queen Elizabeth I and Robert Dudley. Aside from performing court duties as Lord Great Chamberlain for the early years of the reign of Charles I, he was active in Lincolnshire as starting major drainage projects in the 1630s. Having served as a young man in Dutch campaigns, he was named a royalist commander at the outset of the Civil War, at first tasked with taking Hull (unsuccessfully), and then acting as general of the infantry at the Battle of Edge Hill in October 1642, where he lost his life. He had married Elizabeth Montagu (sister of the 1st Baron Montagu of Boughton) thus integrating the Bertie family further within the hierarchies of the upper court aristocracy (and also the families holding power in the East Midlands).

Robert Bertie, 1st Earl of Lindsey

Their son, Montagu Bertie (known as ‘Lord Willoughby’ as heir) was a favourite of King Charles I. He raised a regiment of Life Guards and brought it into Royalist service in the Civil War, and in 1643 was named to the Privy Council and a Gentleman of the Bedchamber. Now 2nd Earl of Lindsey, he remained faithful to the King through all his tribulations, including his imprisonment and trial. Though he himself was not punished in 1649, he was forced to pay significant sums to the new regime and retired from politics. At the Restoration of Charles II, he performed the role of the Lord Great Chamberlain in the coronation of 1661, was given the Order of the Garter, and was re-appointed Lord Lieutenant of Lincolnshire, an office his descendants would hold continuously for the next 150 years.

Montagu, 2nd Earl of Lindsey

Robert Bertie succeeded as 3rd Earl of Lindsey in 1666, and in politics retained his family’s strong loyalty to the Crown which gradually morphed into the Tory faction in Parliament. His younger half-brother, James, inherited his own barony, Norreys, and an ancestral seat, Rycote in Oxfordshire, from his mother. Lord Norreys was a more substantial politician, and due to his close connections with his brother-in-law, Lord Danby (essentially the King’s first minister), and helped hold together a ‘Crown Party’ in the turbulent last years of Charles II’s reign, earning for himself an earldom, that of Abingdon, in 1682. The secondary Bertie branch, the earls of Abingdon, outlived the senior branch, and in 1938 combined the two earldoms into one. The current 14th Earl of Lindsey and 9th Earl of Abingdon is Robert Bertie (b. 1931); his heir is known as Baron Norreys.

James Bertie, 1st Earl of Abingdon

The 3rd Earl of Lindsey remained in office under the regime of William and Mary, despite the fall from power of the Danby faction and the rise of the Whigs. His sons regained some of this favour under the new King and Queen, and eventually shifted their loyalties towards the Whig party: the second son, Peregrine, in particular, was named Vice-Chamberlain of the Household of William III, in 1694, and continued in this office under Queen Anne. The older son, another Robert, had been a Tory MP for Boston in the 1680s, and supported the northern rising in support of the Glorious Revolution. He was rewarded by William & Mary with the office of Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, 1689. In 1701 he succeeded his father as 4th Earl of Lindsey, 17th Baron Willoughby de Eresby, and Lord Great Chamberlain—performing this role at the funeral of William III, then at the coronation of Queen Anne on St. George’s Day, 23 April 1702. He was also appointed a Privy Councillor.

Robert Bertie, 4th Earl of Lindsey, in coronation robes and with the white staff of the Lord Great Chamberlain. He is later created 1st Duke of Ancaster and Kesteven

In 1706, he was raised a rank in the peerage, as Marquess of Lindsey, and in the new reign, of George I, was elevated again, in 1715, as Duke of Ancaster and Kesteven. I’ve not been able to find precise reasons for the choice of these titles: perhaps ‘Duke of Lincolnshire’ was rejected, so this was a substitute? Why use both names? Ancaster was one of the original Willoughby estates brought to the Bertie family in the 1550s. Its name suggests Roman origins (‘Anna’s fort or camp’) and indeed there are remains of a Roman settlement here, on a key road north from London. The region of Kesteven was, like Lindsey, one of the three subdivisions of Lincolnshire, in the southwest of the county. Its name may derive from a hybrid of Celtic ceto (‘wood’) and Norse stefna (‘meeting place’)—its name appears as Coestefne in about 1000. More recently it has been used as part of the title of one of its most famous residents, born and raised in Grantham, Baroness Thatcher of Kesteven (cr. 1992).

The 1st Duke of Ancaster and Kesteven had also added to his family’s lands, by marriage in 1678 to the Welsh heiress Mary Wynn, a descendant of the ancient princely house of Aberffraw (kings of Gwynedd), and heiress of the 4th Baronet Wynn. The Wynn estates were centred on Gwydyr Castle, in the Conwy Valley on the eastern edges of County Carnarvon (North Wales). Its ancient manor house had been rebuilt in the 16th century, with material from the local secularised abbey of Maenan. It was neglected as a Bertie property in the 18th century, but subsequent heirs rebuilt it—and the name was resurrected in the title Baron Gwydyr (or Gwydir) in 1796. The estate was mostly sold off in the 1890s, and the house finally in 1921 by Earl Carrington (see below). Today it is privately owned and restored. The 1st Baron Gwydir also built a grand London residence, in Whitehall, Gwydyr House, which is today the office of the Secretary of State for Wales. An earlier residence for the Berties in London was Willoughby House, built as a town house by the Duke and Duchess of Suffolk in the 1530s near Cripplegate, in what was once the edge of the Roman City—after this part of London was bombed in World War II, it was redeveloped as the Barbican, and still uses the name Willoughby House for one of its residential units.

Gwydyr Castle, North Wales

The eldest son of the 1st Duke, Robert, had died studying abroad, so it was the second son, Peregrine, who became 2nd Duke in 1723. In politics, he returned to the family’s traditional alliance with the Tories, and despite the ongoing power of the Whig Ascendancy in the first two reigns of the Hanoverian kings, was appointed to key court and government offices: Gentleman of the Bedchamber in 1719-27 (at first as Marquess of Lindsey, the title used by the heir), and Chief Justice in Eyre, north of the Trent, 1734-42. He maintained the family position in Lincolnshire as Lord Lieutenant, and married a daughter of one of the other local elites, the Brownlows, baronets from the other side of Grantham, at Belton House. He acted as Lord Great Chamberlain in key monarchical events in the deaths and accessions of George I and George II.

Peregrine Bertie, 2nd Duke of Ancaster and Kesteven, his tomb in Edenham Church (Lincs.)

Another Peregrine succeeded his father as 3rd Duke of Ancaster in 1742. He led a military career, rising to the rank of full general by 1772, and was appointed to the office of Master of the Horse in 1766, which was by this point more a political office than an office of the household. The appointment was the start of a long alliance with the Pitt family. In 1773, he built a country house on Richmond Hill overlooking the Thames in west London, Ancaster House, designed by Robert Adam; but his heirs sold this house soon after. In town they also occupied Lindsey House (sometimes called Ancaster House), on Lincoln’s Inn Fields, near Sir John Soane’s House.

Peregrine, 3rd Duke of Ancaster
Lindsey House, Lincoln’s Inn Fields, London

The 3rd Duke died in 1778 and was succeeded by his son Robert as 4th Duke, but only for a year. As Lord Lindsey, he had served in the War of American Independence, 1777-78, and on his return to England was appointed a Privy Councillor, perhaps the start of a great political career. But he died soon after of scarlet fever. He was unmarried, but willed much of his money to an illegitimate daughter, Susan Bertie, who later married another veteran of the war in America, the fantastically named (and outrageously painted) Banastre Tarleton. He had been famous as the daring leader of ‘Tarleton’s Raiders’, particularly in South Carolina, and later became an MP for Liverpool, a vocal anti-abolitionist, a general in the Napoleonic wars in Iberia, and finally a baronet in 1815.

3rd and 4th Dukes of Ancaster in Edenham Church
Banastre Tarleton by Joshua Reynolds

The 4th Duke of Ancaster and Kesteven was the last person to hold the office of Lord Great Chamberlain undivided. Although the ducal title and the earldom of Lindsey passed to his uncle, Brownlow (named for his mother’s family), the office of Great Chamberlain following strict rules governing inheritance went into abeyance between the 4th Duke’s two sisters, Priscilla and Georgina, as did the claims to the barony of Willoughby de Eresby. In 1780, Priscilla was confirmed as 21st Baroness, while her new husband, Sir Peter Burrell (from a family of baronets from Sussex), was appointed Lord Great Chamberlain, and performed the functions of this office until 1820 (and it is he who was created 1st Baron Gwydyr).

Priscilla Bertie, Baroness Willoughby de Eresby

The 5th Duke of Ancaster took over the family responsibilities in Lincolnshire, as Lord Lieutenant, and was also appointed to the Privy Council by George III. When he died in 1809, his personal wealth passed to his only grandson, Brownlow Colyear, son of the 4th Earl of Portmore, who was a potential candidate to re-establish the Bertie name and titles, but he was killed by bandits while studying in Rome in 1819.

Priscilla Bertie, Baroness Willoughby de Eresby, and her husband Peter Burrell, Baron Gwydyr, thus became the senior curators of the Bertie inheritance—though the earldom of Lindsay did pass to a collateral branch, established back in the 1640s from a younger son of the 2nd Earl. The 10th and 11th earls were both seen as feeble-minded and kept away from society and politics. The 12th Earl, who succeeded in 1899, made more of a name for himself, in the military, and in the 1880s served as aide-de-camp to his distant cousin Lord Carrington (him again) when he was Governor of New South Wales. The 12th Earl left no male heir, but through his daughter he has numerous descendants in Australia, and the Lindsey earldom passed to the branch of Abingdon, as we’ve seen.

Peter Burrell, Jr took over as both Baron Willoughby and Baron Gwydyr. He married a great heiress and added her surname to his own: Clementina Drummond, heiress of the 1st Baron Perth, and to two mighty castles in Perthshire: Drummond and Stobhall. He also succeeded his father as acting Lord Great Chamberlain. He thus represented this Great Office of State in one of the grandest coronations in British history, that of George IV in 1821. In 1830, George IV died, and it was agreed that the office would pass to the holder of the other half of the divided succession: George, 2nd Marquess of Cholmondeley, in the name of his mother, Lady Georgina Bertie (who lived until 1838, so was technically the ‘owner’ of this ½ share). He was thus in charge of the ceremonial role in the coronation of William IV.

Peter Burrell, Baron Willoughby, as Great Lord Chamberlain in the coronation of 1821

The House of Cholmondeley (pronounced ‘Chumley’) was an ancient landowning family from Cheshire, with a grand castle at Cholmondeley since the 12th century and estates at Malpas, near the borders with Wales. In 1706 they became earls. In 1791, the 4th Earl of Cholmondeley married Lady Georgina Bertie, sister and co-heiress of the 4th Duke of Ancaster. They enjoyed royal favour in the Regency period, she as Lady of the Bedchamber to the Princess of Wales from 1795, and he as Lord Steward of the Household from 1812. In 1797 he inherited the large palladian mansion built by a cousin, Robert Walpole, in the 1720s: Houghton Hall, in Norfolk. This house would become the family’s main seat from this point until today. In 1815, the Earl became the 1st Marquess of Cholmondeley, and the original castle in Cheshire was rebuilt in a flashy neo-gothic style.

Georgina Bertie, Marchioness of Cholmondeley, with one of her sons
Houghton Hall, Norfolk
Cholmondeley Castle, Cheshire

The 2nd Marquess of Cholmondeley gave up the position as Lord Great Chamberlain on the death of William IV. It passed back to the owner of the other half-share, Peter Drummond-Burrell, who bore the crown in the coronation of Queen Victoria in 1838. He held this office until his death in 1865 when it passed to his son, Albyric, 23rd Baron Willoughby de Eresby. When he died in 1870, the family’s half-share was divided once more between two sisters, Clementina, who became 24th Baroness Willoughby, and Charlotte, Baroness Carrington by marriage. Each of their descendants would now bear ¼of the office, and they agreed that the deputy, ie, the acting Lord Great Chamberlain, would be Clementina’s son, Gilbert Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby, 2nd Baron Aveland (the Heathcotes were another East Midlands family, with lands in both Lincolnshire and Rutland). Aveland succeeded his mother as Baron Willoughby in 1888, was created Earl of Ancaster in 1892, and exercised the role of Great Chamberlain at the funeral of Queen Victoria in 1901, then once more yielded the office to his Cholmondeley cousins.

Gilbert Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby, 1st Earl of Ancaster

The long reign of Victoria had been very good for the Willoughby branch of the family. The next Cholmondeley, the 4th Marquess, would not be so fortunate, acting as Lord Great Chamberlain for the coronation of Edward VII in 1902, but then for his funeral only 8 years later.

So in 1910, the role passed to the owner of the junior ¼ share, Earl Carrington, who bore St Edward’s Staff at the coronation of June 1911. In 1912, an agreement between the families formalised what was in practice already occurring, that the office of Lord Great Chamberlain would change with each reign, and would be held by the Cholmondeleys every other reign (as holders of a half-share), and by the Willoughbys and the Carringtons every fourth reign (as holders of quarter shares). Earl Carrington was already a prominent Liberal statesman in Edwardian Britain, and was appointed Governor or New South Wales (Australia), 1885-90, Lord Chamberlain of the Household, 1892-95, and Earl Carrington, 1895. He had also been a personal friend of Edward VII in his long years as Prince of Wales. Carrington’s family name originally had been Smith, relatives of the Smith banking dynasty of Nottingham. This branch were created Baron Carrington (of Upton, Notts.) in 1797, and in 1839 adopted Carrington as their surname. The 3rd Baron added the surname Wynn, but also (in 1880) change the spelling of the surname to Carington with one r. Notes on a postcard for any reasons why he did this. In 1911 he was appointed Lord Privy Seal, thus holding two of the Great Offices of State, and in 1912 was promoted once more, to Marquess of Lincolnshire. His seat had been Wycombe Abbey in Buckinghamshire, but he sold it in 1896.

Charles Wynn-Carington, Earl Carrington, as Lord Great Chamberlain (later Marquess of Lincolnshire)

When Lord Lincolnshire died in 1928, his only son having been killed in World War I, the quarter share of the Lord Great Chamberlainship was divided equally between his five daughters and their heirs. They nominated the husband of the third daughter, William Legge, Viscount Lewisham, son of the 6th Earl of Dartmouth, to act out the position for the remainder of the reign of George V, who died in 1936 (and that same year he succeeded as 7th Earl of Dartmouth).

The new Lord Great Chamberlain in January 1936 was another unlucky Cholmondeley (the 5th Marquess), since the reign of Edward VIII was too short for a coronation, and ended in abdication in December. He nevertheless bore the Royal Standard at the coronation of George VI in May 1937, which he had helped plan the previous year. The 2nd Earl of Ancaster (Gilbert Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby) now took the role, until his death in 1951 when he was succeeded by his son, James, the 3rd Earl of Ancaster. But George VI died in February 1952, so the 5th Marquess of Cholmondeley was given a second chance to exercise this position.

3rd Earl of Ancaster

The long reign of Queen Elizabeth II was thus attended to first by the 5th Marquess of Cholmondeley until his death in 1968, then his son, Hugh, 6th Marquess, until his death in 1990, and finally David, 7th Marquess. He ceased to be the Lord Great Chamberlain in 2022, and in March 2023 was appointed to be a Lord in Waiting to the new King, as a sign of gratitude for the long service of this family to the House of Windsor. The Marquess’s second son, Oliver, will be a page at the coronation.

5th Marquess of Cholmondeley as Lord Great Chamberlain in 1953
David, 7th Marquess of Cholmondeley, as Lord Great Chamberlain

The new Lord Great Chamberlain, the 7th Baron Carrington (b. 1948), is the great-grandson of the 4th Baron, younger brother and male heir of the Marquess of Lincolnshire. His father, the 6th Baron Carrington, was well known as a Conservative politician, with an incredibly long career from the 1950s to his sudden resignation as Foreign Secretary in 1982 when he failed to anticipate the Argentine invasion of the Falkland Islands. He later was Secretary General of NATO (1984-88), and Chancellor of the Order of the Garter (1994-2012), and was created a life peer (Baron Carington of Upton) in 1999 to allow him to retain a seat in the newly reformed House of Lords. When he died in 2018, he was succeeded by his son Rupert Carington, a banker, as 7th Lord Carrington, who was in that year one of the elected peers to the House of Lords.

Rupert, 7th Baron Carrington, already appearing as Lord Great Chamberlain in September 2022

But he is not one of the shareholders in the office of Lord Great Chamberlain. These are the descendants of the five daughters of Lord Lincolnshire. By 2022 there were 11 co-heirs, in several families, including the Legge-Bourkes, cousins of the Legges of Dartmouth (above), and the family of Tiggy Legge-Bourke, socialite and close friend of Charles as Prince of Wales, and nanny to the royal princes in the 1980s. These all now have tiny shares of the ¼ share of this set of heirs to the Dukes of Ancaster. The other ¼ is held by Jane Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby, 28th Baroness Willoughby de Eresby, who, while unlikely to hold the title Lord Great Chamberlain herself—which would be an interesting innovation, as a woman—unless two reigns pass in the next decade (she is nearly 90), has nonetheless enjoyed what some would consider the biggest prize: the landed fortune, with 7500 acres in Lincolnshire and Perthshire, nearly £50 million (estimated in 2008), and the castles of Grimsthorpe and Drummond. The earldom of Ancaster became extinct with her father’s death in 1983. A grand-daughter of Nancy, Lady Astor, she was inducted into the world of high society at an early age, and was one of the six Maids of Honour at the 1953 coronation of Elizabeth II. She never married, so her quarter share will be split into smaller shares by her cousins.

the coronation of 1953, with Jane Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby (second in from right) as one of the Maids of Honour
a coronation publication from 1953