Spare Dukes, Part II, or, What does one do with so many younger brothers?

The violence and in-feuding of royal brothers in the Middle Ages hardly ceased as the histories of England and Scotland transitioned into the Early Modern period. When we last left the Stewarts in Scotland, Robert III, the old king, had died in 1406; his eldest son and heir, the 1st Duke of Rothesay, was also dead; and the second son, James, now King James I, was a prisoner in England. Scotland was therefore ruled by the old king’s younger brother, the 1st Duke of Albany. When he died in 1420, he was immediately succeeded as Regent by his son, Murdoch, 2nd Duke of Albany. When King James I finally managed to liberate himself from English custody and return north across the border in 1424, he tried to offset the power of his cousin Albany by promoting his last remaining uncle, Walter Stewart of Atholl, as Grand Justiciar of Scotland and Earl of Strathearn (the valley of the river Earn, once part of the core of the early medieval kingdom of Alba, now part of Perthshire). The Albany clan was powerful and enjoyed international standing, not just Scottish, as the Duke’s brother, the Earl of Buchan, had just been named Constable of France. But Buchan was killed in battle in August 1424, and King James was thus able to turn the tables in 1425. He had Albany and two of his sons arrested and executed on a hill in front of Stirling Castle. His wife’s father was executed, and she was held in prison for 8 years. The Albany strongholds, Falkland Palace and the Castle of Doune, were confiscated by the Crown. The interfamilial bloodshed of the previous generation showed little signs of abating. Indeed, just over a decade later, the formerly loyal Walter, Earl of Atholl and Strathearn, participated in the murder of James I in 1437, and was then himself executed by the new king, James II.

Falkland Palace, Fife

Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

James II had no brothers, so he had no fraternal rivalries. He did have four sons, and some of the old antagonisms resurfaced in them. The eldest, James, was Duke of Rothesay as heir, then King James III from 1460. The second son, Alexander, was Duke of Albany from 1458, and established his seat at Dunbar Castle, the centre of his earldom of March (sometimes called the earldom of Dunbar). He was also Lord of the Isle of Man, in the Irish Sea, which gave him a lot of autonomy, though I wonder if he ever visited there. More close to home, Albany was appointed Lord High Admiral of Scotland and Warden of the Marches by his brother in 1464. A third son, David, was named Earl of Moray as an infant in 1456, but he died a year later. Finally, the fourth son, John, was named Earl of Mar, 1458, one of the most powerful and ancient earldoms in Scotland, situated on the edge of the Highlands west of Aberdeen, and based at Kildrummy Castle. In 1479, both Albany and Mar quarrelled with James III—Mar was accused by his brother of witchcraft and treason and soon put to death, but Albany escaped to France.

Dunbar Castle ruins

By 1482, Albany joined the court of Edward IV in England; he promised to hold Scotland in the name of the English king … if he could take it. And he did—later that year he took the title Lieutenant-General of the Kingdom, and King James was imprisoned. But this was an extremely brief reign, and by 1483, Albany was pushed out—he fled to England, then to France where he was killed in a duel with the Duke of Orléans in 1485. His son, John, became Duke of Albany and Earl of March, but was born in France and lived there much of his life. In 1504 he became heir presumptive of the Scottish throne, and he returned in 1514 to take up the post of Regent in the name of young James V (in opposition to the King’s very unpopular mother, Margaret Tudor). The Regent moved back and forth between Scotland and France in the next ten years, then was finally pushed out of government affairs when the King reached legal majority in 1524. He returned to France and died at his castle of Mirefleur in Auvergne in 1536.

John, 2nd Duke of Albany, Regent of Scotland, drawn at the French court

James III had three sons. The eldest, James, was Duke of Rothesay. The youngest, John, was Earl of Mar. The second son, also called James, as a small child was given the forfeited lands of the powerful MacDonald clan, finally brought to heel in 1481, notably the earldom of Ross. Ross, the region to the north of Inverness, had been separated from the ancient earldom of Moray in the mid-12th century. He was also Marquis of Ormond—an early use of this title in Scotland—which referred to a castle (also called Avoch) on the Black Isle near Inverness (and not to Ormonde in Ireland, in case you were wondering). In 1488 he was elevated by his brother, now James IV, to a dukedom. In 1497, though still a minor, the Duke of Ross was named Archbishop of Saint Andrews, possibly to limit his ambitions for the throne. The Archbishop-Duke later served his brother loyally as Lord Chancellor of Scotland, from 1502 until his death in 1504.

the ruins of Ormond Hill, near inverness
the arms of the Duke of Ross, Stirling Castle

The dukedom of Ross was re-created in 1514 for the infant (and posthumously born) second son of James IV, Alexander, but he died only a year later. An illegitimate son, also called Alexander, succeeded his uncle as Archbishop of Saint Andrews in 1504, and as Lord Chancellor in 1510. It’s evident Scottish monarchs still made good use of royal bastards. But the Archbishop was killed at the Battle of Flodden in 1513, alongside his father the King. The new king, James V, thus grew up without any full brothers, but did have an illegitimate half-brother, James, Earl of Moray, whose earldom since the early 14th century had been centred on Darnaway Castle in Morayshire, west of the town of Elgin. He was succeeded as Earl of Moray by another illegitimate James, a half-brother of Mary, Queen of Scots, who later served as regent for her son, James VI.

James Stewart, Earl of Moray
Darnaway Castle, seat of earls of Moray, in the early 19th century before its modern reconstruction

James V had two legitimate sons, and set up as usual as Duke of Rothesay (James) and Duke of Albany (Arthur, or perhaps Robert). The name of the second son is uncertain as he only lived a few weeks, and died within days of his elder brother, who was himself less than a year old, in April 1541. Mary, Queen of Scots, born a year later, was therefore the last of the main line of the House of Stewart (which she now started to spell the French way: Stuart). Besides Moray, she had other half-siblings, including Robert, to whom she granted lands and powers in the Orkney and Shetland islands. In the 1570s, he angled for a recognition of sovereignty, in collaboration with the king of Denmark-Norway (who was still interested in re-asserting his own sovereignty over these isles). Robert built a new princely palace at Birsay, the ancient seat of the Jarls of Orkney. His nephew James VI, reaching his majority in 1579, disliked these princely aspirations, and had Lord Robert imprisoned, but recanted and in 1581 granted him the earldom of Orkney outright. Orkney had also briefly been a dukedom granted by Queen Mary to her third husband, the Earl of Bothwell, in 1567.

the Earl’s Palace at Birsay, Orkney

Mary’s second husband, Henry Stewart, Lord Darnley, had also been given a dukedom, Albany, in 1565, which may seem an odd choice since he was a consort not a second son, but he was also lineally her heir before their son was born. He was murdered in 1567, and Albany vanished again as a title. It surfaced again for Prince Charles, James VI’s second son, created in 1600 just before the family moved to England and the young Charles added the dukedom of York to his titles. Similarly, Charles II added Albany to his brother James, Duke of York’s titles in 1660. Albany would be created again and again in the 18th century alongside the dukedom of York (see below); but it was also created—though not legally recognised in any British courts—for the illegitimate daughter of Prince Charles Edward Stuart, the ‘Young Pretender’. Charlotte, Duchess of Albany from 1784, did not have long to press her Jacobite claims to the thrones of England, Scotland and Ireland, dying a few years later in 1789. We’ve also seen, above, that there was a Dukedom of Albany created in 1881 for Prince Leopold, the fourth son of Queen Victoria, and it passed to his son, Charles Edward, who became Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha in 1900, fought on the German side during the Great War, and was thus deprived of his English and Scottish titles in 1919. The last person to bear the name Albany as a ‘surname’ (of sorts), was Charles Edward’s sister, Princess Alice of Albany, who, as Countess of Athlone, lived to be nearly 100, dying in 1981.

There were other ephemeral dukedoms created for younger royal sons in the Stuart century. James VI had a third son, Robert, whom he created Duke of Kintyre and Lorne in 1602, as an infant, but he died only a few weeks later. James II, as Duke of York, had a number of sons who only lived a few weeks or a few years in the 1660s and 1670s: four of these were called Duke of Cambridge, and one was Duke of Kendal, a unique title named for the town in Westmorland. James also had illegitimate sons who were created dukes of Berwick and Albemarle, as of course did Charles II, spawning the dukes of Monmouth and Buccleuch, Southampton and Cleveland, Grafton, Northumberland, Saint Albans, and Richmond and Lennox. There were thus half a dozen Stuart semi-princes in the early 18th century who offered a sort of social counter-balance to the newly arrived Hanoverian Dynasty. (I’ve already posted about one of these, Saint Albans; others will follow).

The first Hanoverian, George I, had several younger brothers, but most had died before his accession to the British throne in 1714, or in the case of Maximilian, had been disinherited and distanced from the family due to his conversion to Catholicism and service as a commander in the Imperial armies. The youngest brother, Ernst August, at first served as Regent of Hanover after George left for London in 1714, and guardian of his young grandson, Prince Frederick, who was left behind in Germany. In 1715, Ernst August was appointed Prince-Bishop of Osnabrück, a curious family tradition by which this Catholic bishopric was governed by a Lutheran prince; a year later, he was integrated into the British peerage through the creation of the first of the ‘double duchies’ that became the norm for the Hanoverian era, as Duke of York and Albany, one for England, one for Scotland (and Earl of Ulster in the peerage of Ireland). He continued to govern the Electorate of Hanover and the Bishopric of Osnabrück until his death with no heirs in 1728.

Ernst August of Hanover, Duke of York and Albany

At roughly the same time, the dukedom of York was also granted in 1725 by the Old Pretender (‘James III’) to his younger son, Prince Henry. Henry later became a cardinal, and was known as the Cardinal-Duke of York (or to some, ‘Henry IX’), until he died in 1807. Disregarding the existence of a Duke of York in Rome, George II named his younger grandson, Prince Edward, Duke of York and Albany in 1760. The King’s older grandson succeeded as king (George III) later that year, and York was his brother’s heir for a few years until an heir was born. He lived at a new house built on Pall Mall, York House, and started a career in the Royal Navy, before he died suddenly when travelling in Italy in 1767. York House would later be renamed Cumberland House, when it was taken over by the Duke’s younger brother (below), who expanded it. In the early 19th century it was sold and used by the government, first the Board of Ordnance, then the War Office, until it was demolished in the years leading up to World War I.

York House, later Cumberland House, before it was demolished

The next Duke of York and Albany was George III’s second son, Prince Frederick, created in 1784 when he was 21. Like his ancestor Ernst, he was also elected Prince-Bishop of Osnabrück, at the ripe old age of six months—this provided him with a sizeable income for life, and also inspired one of my favourite lines of dialogue in any historical film, when, in The Madness of King George, the actor playing the Duke of York (Julian Rhind-Tutt) mutters to the Prince of Wales (Rupert Everett): “Oh, I found out the other day that I’m Bishop of Osnabruck. [pause] Amazing what one is, really.” Prince Frederick is much more well-remembered, however, as ‘the Grand Old Duke of York’, as Commander-in-Chief of the British Army from 1795, a position he held throughout the Napoleonic Wars until forced to resign in 1809 due to a scandal involving his mistress (though he was reinstated in 1811). His formal country seat was Oatlands, near Weybridge in Surrey, a rebuilt version (following a fire in 1794) of a house that had existed in the grounds of a royal palace built by Henry VIII, long since demolished. This smaller house is now encapsulated within a grander modern building which is a hotel. Oatlands was the preferred residence of Frederica of Prussia, Duchess of York, who must be the most forgotten of all members of the British royal family (I’d never heard of her; had you?). Further afield, Prince Frederick purchased Allerton Castle, near Harrogate in Yorkshire, in 1786, rebuilt it in a fashionable neo-gothic style, then re-sold it in 1789. The Duke lived mostly in London, first on Whitehall (Montagu House, later called Dover House, now the Scottish Office), then purchasing Melbourne House in Piccadilly in 1791, renaming it York House, which he later sold to be developed as luxury flats (and is still known as The Albany). He then commissioned a new residence, another York House, in 1825—though construction was only getting started when he died in 1827. Later known as Stafford House, today it is called Lancaster House, and serves as an extension of the neighbouring Saint James’s Palace, to host formal government functions.

Frederick, Duke of York and Albany
Oatlands, the remaining monumental gateway
The Albany
York House, today Lancaster House

The last dukes of York were created without the Albany name attached: Prince George of Wales, second grandson of Queen Victoria (1892), who later became George V; Prince Albert, second son of the latter (1920), who became George VI; and most recently, Prince Andrew, second son of Elizabeth II (1986). All three were created with the subsidiary title Earl of Inverness. As a young man in the 1890s, George V had lived at York Cottage on the Sandringham Estate in Norfolk and in Marlborough House in London. George VI as second son resided with his young family in a townhouse on Piccadilly, at White Lodge in Richmond Park, then also at York Cottage, which he received from his father in 1923. Prince Andrew lived at Sunninghill Park near Windsor until 2004.

York Cottage, Sandringham

There was also an earlier York House, built in 1736 as a wing of St James’s Palace for the residence of the eldest son of George II, Prince Frederick. Before he was created Prince of Wales in 1729, Frederick had been named Duke of Edinburgh (1726). The Prince of Wales soon moved out, however, to form his own opposition court at Leicester House (formerly dominating what’s now Leicester Square), and it was his younger brother, Prince William, who became the favoured son. William was created Duke of Cumberland in 1726. When the Prince of Wales quarrelled with their father in 1736, some historians have suggested that he proposed to his younger brother that they eventually partition the Hanoverian dominions, with Cumberland getting Hanover—an interesting foreshadowing of its 19th-century future.

York House, St James’s Palace

Cumberland had been a powerful earldom for the Clifford family from 1525 to 1643. A year later, it was given as a dukedom to Charles I’s nephew, Prince Rupert of the Rhine, one of his loyal commanders in the Civil War. After Rupert died, the title was given to Prince George of Denmark, husband of Princess Anne of York (later Queen Anne). Prince William’s dukedom of Cumberland was thus the third. As so often seems to be the case in the English and Scottish royal families, second sons managed to get along better with their fathers. In this case, while George II and the Prince of Wales clashed on nearly every issue, the King and his second son, the Duke of Cumberland, enjoyed soldiering together, for example at the Battle of Dettingen in 1743 in the War of Austrian Succession. In 1745, Cumberland was named Commander-in-Chief in Flanders of the allied forces of Britain, Hanover, Austria and the Netherlands. He suffered a major defeat by the French at Fontenoy in May 1745, but followed this up with a decisive victory at Culloden against the Jacobites in April 1746.

William, Duke of Cumberland

The Duke of Cumberland’s brutal tactics in suppressing Scottish clans earned him the admiration of Tories, but condemnation by the Whigs, and by his brother the Prince of Wales. As the years went on, he continued to advise the King on military matters, notably during the Seven Years War in America (ie, the French and Indian War), and was sent abroad one last time in 1757 to lead the defence of Hanover, threatened with invasion by French troops; he was badly defeated in July, and in September negotiated a highly disadvantageous peace (nearly a surrender), and was publicly disgraced upon his return to London. In 1760, he was denied the post of regent for his young nephew, George III, though he headed a committee created to advise and limit the authority of the King’s mother, the Dowager Princess of Wales. Many government meetings in this period were therefore held in his London house on Upper Grosvenor Street, or at Cumberland Lodge in Windsor Great Park. The Lodge had been built in the 1650s and was named the official residence of the Ranger of the Great Park by Charles II in 1671. The Duke of Cumberland received this appointment in 1746, and since then Windsor Lodge has been known as Cumberland Lodge. It housed the next Duke of Cumberland, then the Duke of Sussex in the 1830s-40s, and finally Princess Helena (one of Victoria’s daughters) from 1866 to 1923. Since 1947 it has housed an educational charity. The Duke of Cumberland also built the nearby Fort Belvedere, as a folly or summer house I Windsor Great Park, in 1750. It has been expanded and leased out by the Crown numerous times, and most famously served as the country retreat for the Prince of Wales in the 1930s—the site of his famous weekend parties, the blossoming of his relationship with Wallis Simpson, and of his abdication as king in 1936.

Cumberland Lodge, Windsor Great Park

The next Duke of Cumberland was Prince Henry, the youngest brother of George III (besides Prince Frederick who died at 15). The King created his brother Henry Duke of Cumberland and Strathearn—once more pairing an English and a Scottish dukedom—on his 21st birthday in 1766, and appointed him Ranger of Windsor Great Park, therefore granting him Cumberland Lodge which his uncle had lived in until his death a few years before. This younger brother of a king certainly did cause his share of familial strife, involved in a string of sexual scandals in the late 1760s and 1770s, and marrying in secret once, maybe twice—the second of these, in 1771, prompted George III to pass the Royal Marriages Act of 1772 requiring all marriages of potential heirs to the throne to be approved by the monarch. In the 1780s, Cumberland—probably trying to keep out of the way of his angry older brother—promoted Brighton as a new resort for high society (a cause soon taken up by his flamboyant nephew the Prince of Wales, builder of the Brighton Pavilion), and died, relatively young, in 1790.

Henry, Duke of Cumberland and Strathearn

Prince Ernest Augustus, 5th son of George III, was Duke of Cumberland and Teviotdale from 1799. Teviotdale is the valley of the Teviot, one of the key rivers in the borderlands between England and Scotland. Initially Ernest had been sent to Hanover for his education, purportedly to keep him away from the influence of his eldest brother the Prince of Wales. He entered the army and served in the Napoleonic Wars under the command of his other older brother, the Duke of York, and he rose to the rank of a field marshal in 1813. Back in Britain, he lived for many years in York House (the wing of St James’s Palace), and, as brother to George IV (whose formal reign began in 1820), became an increasingly vocal conservative voice in the House of Lords. This went against the King’s long-term liberal sympathies, but he tolerated him. This changed when the next brother, Clarence, became king as William IV in 1830: Cumberland’s voice was increasingly limited at court and in government, and he left the United Kingdom altogether once Victoria succeeded in 1837. This was not due to his great unpopularity (which was evident), but because the laws of Hanover prevented female succession, so the Duke of Cumberland became the King of Hanover by law. Here he undid much of the liberalisation of government put in place by his two older brothers; but surprisingly, he was not greatly troubled by the political turmoil of the revolutions of 1848 that swept across Europe, and he handed on his throne intact to his son George in 1851. George (V) lost the throne of Hanover in 1866, but he and his descendants retained the British title of Duke of Cumberland and Teviotdale, until it was taken away during World War I. Like Albany (above), this title hasn’t been re-created in the 20th or 21st centuries, I suppose on the off-chance that they are restored for their current claimants.

Ernst Augustus, Duke of Cumberland and Teviotdale, in the 1820s
a medal commemorating Ernst August’s succession as king of Hanover

George III had another brother, William Henry. This prince was created Duke of Gloucester and Edinburgh in 1764. Like Cumberland, he too married in secret, in 1766, but his brother the King didn’t find out about it until after the Royal Marriages Act, so the children were recognised as fully members of the royal family—but not, interestingly, according to the laws of Hanover, which required princes to marry someone of equal rank, which the Duchess of Gloucester was not (Maria Walpole, a grand-daughter of Britain’s first Prime Minister). Gloucester had a career in the army, rising to the rank of field marshal in 1793, but never really shining as a commander. In the 1770s he and his wife lived in Maria’s newly built house, St. Leonard’s Hill, which they renamed Gloucester Lodge, near Windsor. It was sold to another family in 1781 and mostly demolished in the 1920s. In 1767, the Duke was appointed Warden of Windsor Forest, which brought him Cranbourne Lodge as his residence. This house had existed in some form as early as the 13th century; it was later rebuilt in 1808 as the residence of Princess Charlotte (the heir to the throne as only child of the Prince of Wales), and was mostly destroyed in 1865, leaving just a tower.

William Henry, Duke of Gloucester and Edinburgh
Cranbourne Lodge, after the rebuild of 1808. The Tower on the left was part of the earlier structure, and is all that remains today

The dukedom of Gloucester and Edinburgh passed to William Henry’s son, William Frederick, who was apparently not very bright and was called ‘Silly Billy’ or ‘Slice of Gloucester’ (as in the cheese); nevertheless, he was considered as a candidate for the Swedish throne in 1810 when the Swedish nobles were looking for an heir to their childless king. He lived at Gloucester House in Piccadilly in London, and at Bagshot Park, south of Windsor. Bagshot had been a hunting lodge built for Charles I in the 1630s, and was later altered for the Duke of Clarence in 1798, before it passed to the 2nd Duke of Gloucester in 1816. The house was demolished in 1878 and completely rebuilt as residence for Queen Victoria’s third son, the Duke of Connaught, who lived there until 1942. Since 1998, it has been the residence of Prince Edward, Earl of Wessex, younger brother of the current king.

Bagshot Park, today

There was no new creation of the dukedom of Gloucester in the 19th century. Queen Victoria seemed more interested in creating new and interesting titles (there’s also no duke of York in this generation). But once these traditional titles came back into fashion in the early 20th century, it was re-created, again for a third son, after York. Prince Henry, third son of George V, was created Duke of Gloucester in 1928. He had a career in the Army, was active as colonel-in-chief of the Gloucester Regiment, and rose to the rank of field marshal in 1955. He supported his brother George VI through the Second World War as his aide-de-camp, then after the war, was Governor-General of Australia (1945-47). In London he lived in York House (adjacent to Saint James’s Palace), from 1936 until his death in 1974, and in the country he purchased Barnwell Manor, a house formerly belonging to his wife’s family (the Montagus), near Oundle in Northamptonshire. Barnwell was recently put up for sale by his son, the 2nd Duke of Gloucester, and he and his wife live in Kensington Palace. An interesting point from a dynastic point of view is that, although rule over the duchy of Saxe-Coburg passed to a junior line in the 1890s, by strict lineal succession, today’s Duke of Gloucester is the dynastic head of the House of Saxe-Coburg & Gotha, since Elizabeth II would have been prevented from succeeding her father due to the traditional succession laws in Imperial Germany.

Henry, Duke of Gloucester
Barnwell Manor, Northamptonshire

But jumping back once more from the Saxe-Coburgs to the Hanoverians, there are still more younger brothers of King George IV to look at. We’ve looked so far at the dukes of York (no. 2, of the many sons of George III) and Cumberland (no. 5), which leaves Clarence (3), Kent (4), Sussex (6) and Cambridge (7), not to mention two young princes, Octavius and Alfred, who did not survive childhood. This was an era when royal princes could still be quite political, so it is interesting to see the clash between the liberal values of the older sons, the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Clarence (and later the Duke of Sussex) and the more conservative stances of the Duke of Cumberland. The curiously named dukedom of Clarence was revived in 1789 for Prince William after a 200-year hiatus, and paired with Saint Andrews, in Scotland. He had a long naval career, then settled down at Bushy House, in Teddington on the river Thames west of London, in his capacity at Ranger of Bushy Park, a royal appointment (1797). The house had been built in 1715 by Lord Halifax, and later became the residence of Clarence’s wife, Adelaide, after his brief reign as William IV (1830-37). In the later half of the 19th century, Bushy House was an asylum for the Duke of Nemours, son of the exiled French king, Louis-Philippe, and since 1900 has housed the National Physical Laboratory. The Duke of Clarence and Saint Andrews also built Clarence House in London, near Buckingham Palace, in 1825. It has had a succession of royal residents over the centuries, including long periods of residence by the Duke of Edinburgh (1866 to 1900), the Duke of Connaught (1900 to 1942), and the Queen Mother (1952-2002). Princes William and Harry lived there in the following decade, and since 2012 it has been the residence of the Prince of Wales, and will apparently remain so while Buckingham Palace is refurbished for Charles III.

William, Duke of Clarence as Lord High Admiral, 1827
Bushy House
Clarence House, in the 1870s

The last use of Clarence was also as a joint dukedom, with Avondale, created in 1890, for Prince Albert Victor of Wales, the eldest grandson of Queen Victoria. Avondale refers to the Avon Water in South Lanarkshire, near the town of Hamilton. This Duke of Clarence and Avondale died only two years later. Curiously, there was also an earldom of Clarence, created only a few years before in 1881, as one of the subsidiary titles of the dukedom of Albany for Victoria’s fourth son, Leopold. Albany was given Claremont House, in Surrey, by his mother as a wedding present—it had been built in the early 18th century by the Earl of Clare (later the 1st Duke of Newcastle) and was then purchased by the Crown in 1816 for Princess Charlotte, the heir to the throne. Before being given to Prince Leopold, it had served as the residence for the exiled King and Queen of the French, from 1848 to 1866. Claremont was taken away from Leopold’s son, the 2nd Duke of Albany and Duke of Saxe-Coburg, when he was deprived of his British titles after the First World War; it was sold and now houses a school.

Leopold, Duke of Albany
Claremont House, Surrey

Continuing down the line of the younger brothers of George IV, and later William IV Prince Edward was created Duke of Kent and Strathearn, 1799. When we last encountered the Plantagenet earldom of Kent (created for Edmund of Woodstock in 1321) it was passing by marriage into the Holland family. It them passed to the Grey family, earls of Kent from 1465. The 12th Earl, Henry Grey, was created Duke of Kent in 1710, but died without heirs in 1740. The title (but not any Grey properties associated with it) was thus available to be re-created for a royal prince. George III’s fourth son, Prince Edward, had made a name for himself as Commander-in-Chief in British North America, 1791-1802 (and was an early advocate of the creation of Canada), then as Governor of Gibraltar, 1802-20. But he is mostly remembered today as the father of Queen Victoria, born when he was already in his fifties. He lived at Castle Hill Lodge in Ealing, west of London—he had bought the house from his brother’s secret former wife Mrs Fitzherbert in 1801, but left it in 1812, and it was eventually rebuilt, remodelled, and now serves as a home for wounded soldiers. When the Duke of Kent died in 1820, his double dukedom reverted to the Crown.

Clarence (left) and Kent (right) as boys
Edward, Duke of Kent and Strathearn
Castle Hill Lodge, Ealing

An earldom of Kent was created for the Duke of Edinburgh (Victoria’s second son), in 1866, and years later, Kent was re-erected into a dukedom, in 1934 for Prince George, the fourth son of George V. The new Duke of Kent, the most dashing and sociable brother of George VI, was meant to act as Governor-General of Australia in 1938, but was prevented by the outbreak of war. He was an RAF officer and died in an air crash in Caithness in August 1942. From 1935, he and his family had lived at Coppins in Buckinghamshire, a 19th-century house first acquired by Princess Victoria, daughter of Edward VII. It would remain the family seat for the 2nd Duke of Kent and his family, until he sold it in 1972, and moved to Amner Hall, a Georgian House that became part of the Sandringham Estate in Norfolk at the end of the 19th century (later the residence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge), and from 1990, Crocker End in Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, until recently. The Kents now live at Wren Cottage, within Kensington Palace.

George, Duke of Kent
Coppins, Buckinghamshire

The Duke of Sussex was a new title when it was created for Prince Augustus, sixth son of George III, in 1801. Sussex had been a Saxon sub-kingdom in the 9th century, and was subsequently and earldom numerous times, from the 13th century to the 18th. The last earl died in 1799, and Prince Augustus received the elevated title just over a year later. Sussex was the complete opposite of his older politically active brother, Cumberland. He had no naval or army career, and was vocally liberal in the House of Lords, supporting the various reform movements of the early 19th century. He was also a noted patron of arts and sciences. But like some of his uncles, he also had a secret marriage, later annulled in 1794 since it contravened the Royal Marriages Act. He married again without permission in 1831, and eventually his niece Victoria (who considered him her favourite uncle) created his wife Duchess of Inverness so she could hold a high rank at court. His brother William IV had appointed him to be Chief Ranger and Keeper of St James’s Park in 1831, and later Victoria appointed him Governor of Windsor Castle, so he also resided at Cumberland Lodge in Windsor Great Park, as had several of his Hanoverian predecessors. Sussex died in 1843 with no children, and his dukedom remained ‘dormant’ until it was revived for Prince Harry of Wales in 2018. The new Duke of Sussex’s history is of course still being written, but it seems he will certainly be remembered as a younger brother who refused to be ignored in terms of the power dynamics of the British royal family. Like many before him, he has seen his position as the ‘spare’ dissolve into nothingness following the births of the two younger children of his older brother.

Augustus, Duke of Sussex

Finally, the last of the younger brothers of King George IV: Adolphus, Duke of Cambridge. Cambridgeshire had given its name to an earldom as early as the 14th century, and was usually associated with the House of York. In the 17th century it was created as an earldom then a marquisate for the dukes of Hamilton, and then used for younger Stuart princes in the 1660s-70s, all mostly short-lived. Prince George Augustus, grandson of the Electress Sophia (the expected heir to the British throne after 1701), was created Duke of Cambridge in 1706, then became Prince of Wales in 1714 when his father became King George I. Prince Adolphus, the 7th son of George III, was given his dukedom in 1801. He was a field marshal in the army of Hanover from 1813, and acted first as military governor of the Electorate of Hanover, once it was liberated from the French in 1813, then Viceroy, once it was elevated to a Kingdom in 1815. He served in this capacity until 1837, when his brother the Duke of Cumberland succeeded as king of Hanover, though there were murmerings that the local people would have preferred to stay under the more liberal rule of the Duke of Cambridge. In London, he lived at Cambridge House on Piccadilly—one of the few grand mansions to have survived the bombings of World War II—and also held the royal post of Keeper of Richmond Park. His son succeeded him as Duke of Cambridge, until his death in 1904, and the title was revived, though at a lower rank (a marquisate) in 1917 for another Adolphus, Duke of Teck (George V’s brother-in-law, and a grandson via his mother of the 1st Duke of Cambridge). This title became extinct in 1981, and was revived once again as a dukedom in 2011 for Prince William of Wales, now the Prince of Wales.

Adolphus, Duke of Cambridge
Cambridge House, Piccadilly

From 1837, the surviving younger brothers of George IV and William IV acted as uncles to Queen Victoria. Victoria herself had no full brothers or sisters, just the shadowy figure (from a British perspective) of her older half-sister Princess Feodora of Leiningen—who suddenly appears from nowhere in the TV series ‘Victoria’—and her brother Karl, Prince of Leiningen, whose links to the British sovereign helped favour his rise in German politics into the position of a liberal prime minister for a briefly united Germany in the summer of 1848.

Queen Victoria then had four sons, though only one, Arthur, lived long enough to act as a king’s younger brother when the Prince of Wales finally became Edward VII in 1901. Victoria’s choices for ducal titles ran counter to the Stuart and Hanoverian norm: no more York or Gloucester; now we have Edinburgh, Connaught and a final revival of Albany (see above). Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, the second son, was also the ‘spare’ in line for the throne from 1844 to 1864. He had been considered as a potential successor to the deposed King Otto of Greece in 1862, but his mother blocked it, since it was already decided that he would succeed his childless uncle Ernst as Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha—though this wouldn’t happen until 1893. In the meantime, Alfred was created a duke, 1866, and a captain in the Royal Navy in 1867. He sailed around the world and was the first royal prince to visit Australia, New Zealand, India and Hong Kong. Loads of places all across the British Empire are named for Alfred. By the 1880s the Duke of Edinburgh was an admiral, and was named Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean Fleet, and Admiral of the Fleet in 1893. He owned a house at Eastwell Park near Ashford in Kent—there had been a house here since Tudor times, rebuilt in neo-Elizabethan style at the end of the 18th century, and occupied by Alfred and his family in the 1870s and 80s. It was mostly destroyed by a fire in the 1920s. In London the Duke resided in Clarence House, but gave this up, as well as his seat in the House of Lords and his allowance of £15,000 when he became sovereign of the small duchies of Coburg and Gotha.

Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh
Eastwell Park, Kent, before it was demolished in the 1920s

The Duke of Edinburgh’s son had predeceased him, so the title died with him in 1900. The dukedom was re-created for Philip Mountbatten—formerly Prince Philip of Greece and Denmark—in 1947, and it was thought it would be passed on to Philip’s youngest son, Prince Edward, Earl of Wessex (since 1999). But although Edward currently does oversee the running of the Duke of Edinburgh Awards, there’s no indication he is about to be given this title (maybe at the coronation, when such things historically happen).

The one Victorian prince who did live long enough to act as younger brother to Edward VII was Arthur, Duke of Connaught and Strathearn. His title was created in 1874, and is the only ‘double duchy’ of this period, reflecting royal links with both Ireland and Scotland (and he was Earl of Sussex in England). A career army officer, Connaught represented his brother’s royal authority first as Commander-in-Chief of the British Army in Ireland from 1900, and then represented his nephew George V as Governor-General of Canada, 1911-16. He continued to represent the King all around the world in the 1920s. He took over Clarence House from his brother as his London residence and maintained his country seat at Bagshot Park near Windsor for over sixty years. On his death in 1942, the dukedom of Connaught and Strathearn passed to his son (who was also the heir to the dukedom of Fife), who died a year later at age 28.

Arthur, Duke of Connaught and Strathearn

There will certainly never be a revival of a dukedom in Connaught, firmly located within the Republic of Ireland. The future sovereign’s younger brother will be the Duke of Sussex, and it will be interesting to speculate what titles are revived for Prince George’s younger siblings—especially now that male princes no longer trump females in the order of succession. Spain has given dukedoms to kings’ sisters since the 1960s, and now so too does Sweden. Perhaps we can see a Charlotte, Duchess of Albany again? And maybe Louis, being a French name, could be called Duke of Aumale…or even Duke of Normandy!

Gee Beaver, you’re just a kid!

(images from Wikimedia Commons)

Spare Dukes: What to do with a younger brother in 1,000 years of English and Scottish royal history (Part I)

Dad: “Why would he do a ridiculous thing like that?”
Wally: “‘Cause he wanted to be like you, Dad.”
Dad: “But Wally, when I said 20 miles a day, I was just using a round figure.”
Wally: “Yeah, well, you and I know that, Dad, ‘cause we’re grown up, but gee, the Beaver, he’s just a kid.”

Millions of families have a Wally and a Beaver—mature, handsome, dependable Wally, and mischievous and kinda nuts Beaver, who just wants to be respected and treated like an equal part of the family. If you’re a fan of 1950s American television, I’m sure you can hear Wally’s voice: “Gee, he’s just a kid!” The relationship between the royal heir and the ‘kid brother’ is one of the most interesting aspects of the story of dukes and princes in European history. Sometimes the brother cold be loyal, a capable contributor to the success of the reign; sometimes he could be a minor irritant; sometimes he could be a serious threat to his brother, and several met a grisly end.

the murder of Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester, in 1397, in Calais

Starting in the 14th century dukedoms were used to placate a king’s younger brother, so he could rule a small patch of territory on his own. In later periods, when this autonomous power was curtailed, the king’s brother could at least outrank all but the most powerful noblemen of the kingdom. I’ve written a lot about this for France in recent years (and you can read about it in my book from 2021, Monsieur), so I thought, in light of the recent media attention being given to two of the royal brothers in the House of Windsor—for better or for ill—I’d have a look at the phenomenon in the two kingdoms that eventually formed the United Kingdom of Great Britain. Ireland will of course come into this story too, with some of the later royal dukedoms, like Connaught. But a close look at the history of native Irish dynasties deserves its own blog post—see my previous post about driving in Ulster for the O’Neills; and stay tuned in 2023 for a post about the MacCarthys of Munster. Overall, we see over a millennium of fraternal struggles, the same kind that is seen in great narratives of the past, from the stories of Cain and Abel to Mufasa and Scar.

The pre-Conquest history of England and Scotland is pretty much terra incognita for me, and there doesn’t seem to be any sort of ‘system’ in place for keeping younger royal sons happy. In general there was a more sense of collective authority, so all the members of the House of Wessex were called ‘Ætheling’, as someone of royal blood worthy of being selected to rule; whereas the Celtic kingdom of Alba (and older name for Scotland) in the north used a system of alternating lineages, so a king was selected from one line, and then the other. When this system was disrupted, bloodshed broke out, as in the story of Macbeth. In some instances, one of the younger Scottish princes could be given a sub-kingdom to rule, like Strathclyde in the southwest or Moray in the north.

It wasn’t until the Norman Conquest that specific titles were given to a king’s brothers, though at first these were still about dividing the patrimony. William the Conqueror’s sons divided their inheritance: Normandy to the eldest, Robert, and England to the second, William. The third son Henry got very little so probably had a hand in William’s murder in 1100, becoming King Henry I of England, and in 1106 he took over the Duchy of Normandy as well. Similar strife is seen north of the border when the sons and younger brothers of King Malcolm III fought each other over the Scottish throne, until some satisfaction was reached in the creation of powerful earldoms in Lothian, Atholl and Fife in the 1090s, and in 1107, one of the strongest of the sons, David, was created ‘Prince of the Cumbrians’, aka the old kingdom of Strathclyde, stretching from Glasgow to Carlisle. David then became king himself in 1124, and later created autonomous earldoms for this rivals, his nephews, in the far north, in Moray and Ross.

Henry I of England had one legitimate son, William, who was named Duke of Normandy in 1115, mostly so he could do homage to the king of France without the embarrassment of one king doing homage to another. But William died before his father, leaving only a sister (the famous Matilda) and two illegitimate brothers, who were each given sizable territorial bases in England. The King’s elder son, Robert, was created the 1st Earl of Gloucester, in about 1122, centred on lands brought to him by marriage (a feudal barony based around the cities of Gloucester and Bristol—one of the largest in England). Robert added lands in Devon and Glamorgan (south Wales), and he and his heirs administered this powerful earldom from the Castle of Caerphilly in the Welsh Marches. After his son died in 1183, the earldom passed through daughters to other Norman families, the Mandevilles, the de Burghs, the FitzWilliams, and finally the de Clares, who we’ll encounter again in this post. By the mid-15th century the earldom of Gloucester had reverted to the Crown, and in 1385, was re-created as one of the earliest dukedoms in England for one of the sons of Edward III—but that’s getting ahead of ourselves.

The second illegitimate son of King Henry I was Reginald, created Earl of Cornwall in about 1140 with lands acquired either through marriage to a local Cornish heiress, or taken from one of William the Conqueror’s Norman nephews. He based himself at the recently built Launceston Castle. The earldom was given out again in 1225 to the younger brother of King Henry III, Richard, who rebuilt Launceston in the 1230s, built a new castle at Tintagel in 1225, and acquired another Cornish feudal barony, Trematon, in 1230. Much later he moved the capital to Lostwithiel in the 1270s, and built a ‘Duchy Palace’. But to be closer to political centres, Richard was mostly based at Wallingford Palace in Oxfordshire.

Launceston Castle, Cornwall
the ruins of the Ducal Palace

Richard, Earl of Cornwall is a pretty fascinating figure in English history, mostly forgotten, and quite often a pain in his older brother’s side. He revolted a couple times in England, then went abroad to seek his fortune: he was a Crusader, tried and failed to establish his authority in the county of Poitou, was briefly considered for the throne of Sicily, then was elected king of Germany in 1157. Although he was only elected by 4 of the 7 German electors, he got himself crowned in Aachen—but only visited Germany a few times. Back in England, Richard ‘of Almayne’ (Allemagne, ie Germany) he founded Hailes Abbey, which became one of the major pilgrimage sites of medieval England, then died in 1272. His son Edmund, the 2nd Earl, was Regent of England, 1286-89, when Edward I was out of the kingdom fighting in France or Scotland. The earldom of Cornwall was given out again to John, younger brother of Edward III, in 1328. He too was named ‘Guardian of the Realm’ when his brother was overseas, and Warden of the Northern Marches, commanding armies in the wars of Scottish Independence. There were plans for him to marry great heiresses, in Castile or in Brittany, but these came to nothing and he died in 1337 in Scotland.

the seal of Richard of Cornwall as King of Germany

That year, Cornwall was given out again, but raised to the rank of a duke—the first in England. This was given to the son and heir of Edward III, in part to compensate for the final loss of Normandy as an honorific title that could be used by the heir. It has remained the automatic title—and source of revenue—for the heir to the throne ever since.

In Scotland, a similar set-up for the heir was established, a few decades later. The 12th-century princes had either been satisfied with Cumbria, as above, or a newly re-established autonomous earldom of Northumbria—which was soon taken away by the English king and incorporated into England. Some were also given the very lucrative English earldom of Huntingdon. When the original house of Scotland died out in 1290, the throne eventually passed to the Robert the Bruce, who satisfied his younger brother Edward’s urge for power by supporting his quest to be crowned as King of Ireland, which he temporarily succeeded at doing, between 1316 and 1318. Edward’s earldom of Carrick, in southwest Scotland, passed to his nephews in the House of Stewart, who by 1371 took over the throne of Scotland itself. King Robert II (Stewart) had a wild set of six sons, whose stories are fascinating as examples of fraternal strife. As we’ve seen previously, as their father became old and incapacitated, most were given parts of the kingdom to rule themselves, notably the heir, John, ruling Atholl (the old royal heartland), Robert in Fife in the east, Alexander in Buchan in the far northeast, and David in Caithness (up at the very top). They built independent strongholds to defend their power: Robert at Castle Doune in Perthshire and later Falkland in Fife; Alexander at Lochinder Castle in Speyside; David at Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness.

Castle Doune, seat of the dukes of Albany

Once the eldest, John, became king in 1390 (and changed his name to Robert III), he balanced the aspirations of his two potential heirs, his son and his brother, by creating the former, David, Duke of Rothesay, and the latter, Robert, Duke of Albany, both in 1398. Rothesay is an island in the Clyde Estuary in western Scotland. Like the duchy of Cornwall, it was assigned to always be the title for the heir to the throne (though not officially confirmed by Parliament until 1469); but unlike Cornwall, it doesn’t have a territorial component tied to the island, or specific revenues or fiscal privileges. Albany is even more honorific, as not really designating anywhere in specific, but referring to the ancient royal heartland (Perthshire, Atholl) and its old name, Alba. The Duke of Rothesay and the Duke of Albany, uncle and nephew, struggled to control the kingdom as Robert III became ill, and eventually Albany captured Rothesay, and the latter died a few years later in prison, in 1402. Rothesay’s younger brother James soon succeeded as king of Scots, but was a ‘guest’ of the King of England for nearly 20 years, leaving Albany as regent from 1406 till he died in 1420. Later dukes of Albany would prove to be just as powerful within the Scottish royal family, as we’ll see again below.

seal of Robert, Duke of Albany
the coat of arms of the Duke of Albany, shows that he is the second son of Scotland (the red lion with a blue label indicating junior status) as well as second son of the House of Stewart (the checky pattern on gold, again with a blue label)

Back in England, in the mid-12th century, the original House of Normandy was replaced by the House of Anjou, so King Henry II’s younger brothers were heavily involved in French politics. Geoffrey was given lands in Anjou, and hoped to succeed his father as Count of Anjou; when that failed he tried to marry the great heiress, Eleanor of Aquitaine. When that too failed, and she married his elder brother instead, he aligned with the French king, Louis VII, and tried to dismantle Henry and Eleanor’s empire in western France. Geoffrey died after several years of rebellion, in 1158. He was only 24. The youngest brother, William ‘Longspee’ was given lands in Normandy, and was at first considered an ideal prince to be put onto the throne of Ireland, newly conquered by his elder brother Henry II. Henry then tried to marry him to one of the wealthiest of English heiresses, Isabel de Warenne, Countess of Surrey, but the Archbishop of Canterbury prohibited it due to consanguinity (ie they were too closely related). The King and the Archbishop (Beckett) continued to clash until the latter was murdered, but that’s another story. Isabel instead was married to the King’s older half-brother, Hamelin, who became Earl of Surrey and founded a new dynasty based at Conisburgh Castle in Yorkshire.

Conisburgh Castle

The Earl of Surrey was one of the strongest supporters of King Henry II. In contrast, as those who love the movie ‘The Lion in Winter’ will remember, the King’s sons repeatedly rebelled against him. The eldest son, Henry, was created Duke of Normandy and Count of Anjou in 1170. Richard was given his mother’s Duchy of Aquitaine in 1172. A decade later, the third son, Geoffrey, married the heiress to the Duchy of Brittany. These three sons had rebelled against their father in 1173 (supported by their mother Eleanor and the King of France); but in 1183, they re-aligned, and Henry and Geoffrey fought with their father against Richard. The King wanted to take Aquitaine away from Richard to give it to the baby boy, Prince John (‘Lackland’, since he so far had been given nothing of his own). There had been other plans for John: marriage to the heiress of Savoy-Piedmont, then marriage to the heiress of the earldom of Gloucester (see above). This was followed by an appointment as ‘Lord of Ireland’ in 1177, and even a request to the Pope to crown him King of Ireland in 1185 (the Pope declined).

‘The Lion in Winter’. Eleanor of Aquitaine faces off against her husband Henry II, while a mostly passive Richard stands helplessly by

But the eldest son Henry died that rebellious year of 1183, and Richard not only kept hold of Aquitaine, but also succeeded to the English throne in 1189. Geoffrey had already died. So John was the only remaining brother—Richard wanted to go on Crusade, but feared John’s ambitions, so at first he gave him the County of Mortain in Normandy, and required him to stay on that side of the Channel. John soon returned to England, however, and set up his own rival court. In 1193, he allied with his cousin, King Philip of France, hoping to take Normandy and Poitou from his brother; when Richard returned from Crusade, John was deprived of his by now vast estates in Gloucester and Cornwall. Yet they were reconciled and John proved a loyal brother in keeping Normandy loyal to Richard in his last years. When Richard died in 1199, John swiftly took the thrones of England, Normandy and Aquitaine, as well as the throne of Brittany from his little nephew, Arthur (Geoffrey’s son). In this scenario, Prince Arthur can be seen as a forerunner of the ‘princes in the Tower’, and John one of the best examples of the ‘wicked uncle’.

the children of Henry II (here as ‘Duke of Aquitaine’), with John ‘Lackland on the far right

When John became king, he had therefore outlived all his brothers. But he did have some illegitimate half-brothers. Geoffrey was Bishop of Lincoln and Lord Chancellor of England during his father Henry II’s reign. King Richard promoted him to Archbishop of York in 1189. He quarrelled frequently with King John, and was exiled to France for his last years. William (also called ‘Longspee’) was married to the heiress of the earls of Salisbury and named Sheriff of Wiltshire (and based his court at Salisbury Castle, in Wiltshire—an example of how in this period, earldoms were still tied to the actual area they took their name from). John honoured him with important posts: Viceroy of Ireland, Lieutenant of Gascony, Warden of the Welsh Marches. Unsurprisingly, he was one of the few English barons to remain loyal to John in the great revolt of 1215-16; and was then an important figure in the minority of young King Henry III. Illegitimate younger brothers could be a real asset to royal rule.

the tomb of William Longspee, Earl of Salisbury, in Salisbury Cathedral

Henry III also had several illegitimate half-brothers, and most of these were given castles and estates, but no great lordships. His one full brother was Richard of Cornwall, already noted above. King Henry also had two sons, Prince Edward, who was created Duke of Aquitaine (in 1249, when he was only 10), and Prince Edmund. Edmund is another fascinating second son whose history has mostly been forgotten. Nicknamed ‘Crouchback’ (perhaps a corruption of ‘cross-back’ as someone who took the cross on Crusade), he made a name for himself as one of the greatest landowners in England, as a magnate in northern France, and even briefly as a candidate for a royal throne in Sicily. The last of these was actually first, and young Edmund, aged only 10, was invested by the Pope as King of Sicily in 1255, with a promise from his father, Henry III, of large subsidies and a promise to drive the Hohenstaufen family out of Sicily and southern Italy. None of this materialised, and Edmund was formally ‘deprived’ of his throne by the end of the decade. Back in England, he was given the large estates confiscated from the rebel Simon de Montfort, in 1265. This included the earldom of Leicester (an earldom originally created in 1107 for a Norman family). He was also given the lands of other rebels: the Segrave family (also in Leicestershire), and the Ferrers family, earls of Derby, which included lands in Leicestershire and Staffordshire, and more importantly, lands between the rivers Ribble and Mersey, and up to the castle of Lancaster, which were erected, in 1267, into the earldom of Lancaster. Part of the earldom of Lancaster—far from Lancashire itself—included the barony of the Three Castles in Monmouthshire: Grosmont, Shenfrith and White Castle. These three castles remained part of the earldom, later duchy, of Lancaster until the 1820s, when they were sold by the Crown to the Duke of Beaufort.

Edmund ‘crouchback’ (or possibly his son), Earl of Lancaster, facing St George
As in Scotland, by the later 13th century, younger sons in England were using the royal arms with labels of various shades and baring different symbols, like the fleurs-de-lys here for the earls of Lancaster.

Edmund was also appointed High Sherriff of Lancashire, Constable of Leicester Castle, and Lord High Steward of England. He was definitely a force to be reckoned with in central and northern England. He founded and constructed abbeys and priories all over his two earldoms of Leicester and Lancaster. But his marriage to Blanche of Artois in 1276, shifted his focus—she was a niece of King Louis IX of France, and widow of Henry I, King of Navarre and Count of Champagne. Edmund was named co-regent of Champagne on behalf of his step-daughter, Joan, while Navarre was given over to French-appointed governors. When Joan came of age and married the French king in 1184, Edmund relinquished any claims. He did acquire, as part of his wife’s dowry, the lordship of Beaufort in Champagne, a name which will re-appear later in Plantagenet history. When Edmund Crouchback died in 1296, he was succeeded by his son, Thomas, 2nd Earl of Lancaster, who added the lands of the de Lacy family, earls of Lincoln, which included Bolingbroke Castle, and Halton Castle in Cheshire (near Runcorn). The 4th Earl, Henry of Grosmont (taking his name from the castle in Monmouthshire), added yet another earldom, Derby, in 1337, then was created Duke of Lancaster in 1351—the second in England, with palatine powers (ie, almost royal legal autonomy). Henry’s daughter Blanche married John of Gaunt, 3rd son of Edward III, and he thus became Duke of Lancaster, Earl of Leicester, Earl of Derby, Lord of Bowland (a huge barony in Lancashire, still a separate estate today), and Lord of Halton (which also had ‘palatine powers’ over parts of Cheshire). Prince John was thus as rich as any monarch, and held his own splendid court at Kenilworth Castle, in Warwickshire, which he augmented with a splendid Great Hall. He even had his own foreign policy at times, pressing to claim the Kingdom of Castile in his wife’s name in the 1370s-80s, then as Duke of Aquitaine in the 1390s. When John’s son, Henry of Bolingbroke, took the throne of England in 1399, this vast inheritance was thus merged with the Crown. King Charles III today is still Duke of Lancaster and derives much of his income from it. The House of Lancaster also spawned the semi-legitimate House of Beaufort (taking their name from the lordship in Champagne), which included the dukes of Exeter and Somerset, and later dukes of Beaufort, which continue into the present—these will form a separate blog post.

the lands of the House of Lancaster (from an online German atlas), showing clearly the power block between Lincolnshire and Lancashire
John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster–by now all English princes are quartering England with France; but he has added Castile and Leon too
Kenilworth, with the medieval Clifford Tower on the right, Robert Dudley’s Elizabethan buildings on the left, and the ruins of John of Gaunt’s Great Hall in the centre.

But this brings us back to the main royal line. Edward I had five sons, from two marriages. The eldest, Henry, didn’t live very long; nor did the second, Alphonso, who was briefly called Earl of Chester—the title usually given to the heir, after Normandy was lost (1204), but before Cornwall was erected as a duchy. It is thought the King had intended to give the lucrative earldom of Cornwall to one of his younger sons, but before he could do so, his surviving heir—the third son, Edward, named the first Prince of Wales in 1301—gave it to his own favourite, Piers Gaveston. The remaining two younger half-brothers of Edward II were given lands and titles of their own, to keep them happy and loyal—hopefully. In 1312, Thomas of Brotherton was given the earldom of Norfolk, with the vast estates in East Anglia of its previous holders, the Bigod family, and their stronghold, Framlingham Castle, in Suffolk. The Bigod earls were also heirs of the Marshal family, who were hereditary Earl Marshals of England, so Prince Thomas also received this office. He did not stay loyal to his brother the King, however, and allied with his sister-in-law the Queen and her favourite Roger Mortimer in the overthrow and trial of the King’s favourites in 1326, and the deposition of the King himself in 1327. the Earl of Norfolk then acted as a guardian and advisor to the young Edward III. His son predeceased him so his daughter, created Duchess of Norfolk in her own right in 1397, passed the Norfolk titles and estates to her daughter, Elizabeth Segrave, whose heirs married the Howards, who thus began their rise to the very top of the English noble hierarchy, based at Framlingham (until the 17th century), and wielding the prestigious post of Earl Marshal still today—organisers of royal funerals and coronations.

Thomas of Woodstock, Earl of Norfolk, here labelled as ‘Comte Mareschal’ (Earl Marshal)
Framlingham Castle, long the stronhold of the earls and dukes of Norfolk

The youngest brother of Edward II, Edmund of Woodstock—all these place names refer to the place they were born, in this case the Palace of Woodstock in Oxfordshire, not to any possession of land—was initially much closer to his older brother, and was given the earldom of Kent, in 1321, and the important post of Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, trading towns along the southeast coast. He was an important part of Edward II’s government, as a diplomat in France and Scotland, and as Lieutenant of Aquitaine in 1324. But while he was in France, he too joined the Queen’s party, and participated in his brother’s overthrow in 1327 (and was rewarded with confiscated Despencer lands, and the estates of another rebel, the earl of Arundel, notably the castle of Arundel in Sussex, which became his seat). But he fell foul of the regime of Queen Isabella and planned his own rebellion, which failed, and he was executed in 1330. It’s thought that the Earl of Kent’s death, and the idea of executing a royal prince, was the impetus that drove young Edward III to remove his mother and her lover Mortimer from power, and he pardoned his uncle post mortem, and restored the earldom of Kent to his cousin, also named Edmund (Arundel was restored to the FitzAlan family). The 2nd Earl of Kent died within the year, and his brother the 3rd Earl (John) established his seat at Woking Manor in Surrey. When he died in 1352, his estates passed to his sister, Joan, the ‘Fair Maid of Kent’, and thus to her children in the Holland Family. We’ll pick up the Kent pathway again after it returns to the Crown.

Edmund of Woodstock, Earl of Kent

King Edward III had only one younger brother, John of Eltham, who was created Earl of Cornwall, who, again, we’ve already looked at. It is with the sons of Edward III that we once again get an explosion of titles, and now, royal dukedoms. As we’ve seen, the eldest, Edward (the ‘Black Prince’) was created Duke of Cornwall in 1337. He was then named Prince of Wales in 1343 and Duke of Aquitaine in 1362. The four younger sons were created dukes: Clarence, Lancaster, York and Gloucester. Lancaster we’ve already looked at, so we can look at the other three in turn.

In the 14th century, younger sons of kings were encouraged to marry heiresses, rather than rely on royal gifts of lands and titles. The second son of Edward III, Lionel of Antwerp, married the heiress of the de Burgh earls of Ulster, in 1352. The heiress, Elizabeth, was also Lady of Connaught, and brought into the marriage extensive lands in Ireland, and the main fortress of the earldom, Carrickfergus Castle, outside of Belfast. She was also heiress of her grandmother, Elizabeth de Clare, Lady of Clare in Suffolk. It was this lordship, which gave Lionel the name for his dukedom, Clarence, created in 1362. This is one of the anomalies of the English royal dukedoms in that it does not refer to any major county or shire. The honour (another term for lordship) of Clare is in southwest Suffolk, on the border with Essex. The original de Clares came with William the Conqueror and built a castle here in about 1090. They were later earls of Gloucester (from above). The heiress, Elizabeth de Clare, enlarged Clare Castle and its orchards and vineyards. She also endowed Clare College, Cambridge. The new Duke of Clarence took up his wife’s Irish heritage and was Governor of Ireland on behalf of his father, 1361-66, and was also proposed by his father to be King of Scots in 1362. As with so many English princes in this era, he also had an eye to obtaining wealth and authority overseas, so after his first wife died, he travelled to Milan in 1368 to marry a Visconti (her brother was just a teenager, so it was possible she could have inherited the powerful lordship of Milan). Lionel died in Italy, and left a daughter, Philippa, who took the de Burgh and de Clare lands—and a good claim to the English throne—to the Mortimer family, and from there to the House of York. Clare Castle eventually became Crown property, and although some of its lands were made part of the Duchy of Cornwall (and remains so today), the castle was given by Mary I to the Elwes family who kept it until the 19th century. It was mostly dismantled by the 18th century, and is today a pretty indistinctive local country park.

Clare Castle, Suffolk
Carrickfergus, outside Belfast

The dukedom of Clarence, however, was revived for the second son of Henry IV, Thomas of Lancaster, in 1412. He had already been named Lord High Steward of England in 1399, and Lord Lieutenant of Ireland in 1401—though he was only 14, he went to Ireland and did his best to govern for eight years. His father, feuding with his first son (Shakespeare’s ‘Prince Hal’) over keeping the peace with France, replaced the heir with the spare on the royal council in 1411. But when his brother succeeded as Henry V in 1413, Thomas was immediately at his side and ready for war. He fought in France with King Henry in 1418 and 1419 with the title Constable of the Army, and was left in charge of English troops in France in 1421, when Henry returned to England. Later that year, however, he engaged with a Franco-Scottish army at Baugé in Anjou, and was killed.

The Battle of Baugé, presumably showing the death of Thomas of Lancaster, Duke of Clarence

Four decades later, the younger brother of the newly proclaimed Yorkist king, Edward IV, was created Duke of Clarence. Prince George of York was also named Lord Lieutenant of Ireland that same year (1461). He married the daughter of the ‘Kingmaker’, Isabel Neville, and joined his father-in-law when he switched sides to oppose his brother the King in 1470, probably at first hoping to be named king instead, but settled for the position of third in line to the restored Henry VI. Yet when Edward IV took back the throne in 1471, Clarence was forgiven, named Great Chamberlain of England, and was recognised as Earl of Warwick in name of his wife, and then Earl of Salisbury in his own right. But only a few years later he rebelled against his brother again, offended because his brother blocked his marriage to the richest heiress in Europe—here again is that perennial desire to go overseas to obtain a sovereign territory to rule—Mary, Duchess of Burgundy, heiress to Holland, Flanders, Luxembourg, etc. Clarence was accused of using the ‘dark arts’ to kill the King and was executed in February 1478 in a ‘private’ execution (hence the rumour of the butt of Malmsey) inside the Tower of London. His son was denied the succession to the dukedom of Clarence, but was called Earl of Warwick instead. He was later executed by Henry VII, leaving only Margaret, later known as Lady Pole, and finally allowed to use her father’s other title, Countess of Salisbury, until she too was executed by the paranoid Tudor regime in 1541.

George, Duke of Clarence

The title ‘Duke of Clarence’ was proposed for Guildford Dudley as consort to Queen Jane in 1553. That didn’t happen, and his life also ended in execution. Two centuries later, this curious ducal title was revived again for one of the Hanoverian princes, so we’ll pick it up again below.

Jumping back to the first generation of royal dukes, the sons of Edward III, we come to the fourth son, Edmund of Langley, Duke of York. He was born at Langley Palace in Hertfordshire, once a grand royal residence, but now no more than a field. At first, Prince Edmund was given the lands of his godfather, the Earl of Surrey (John de Warenne), who had died in 1347 with no heirs. This included Conisburgh Castle (which we’ve encountered above) in Yorkshire, but also manors in Wakefield, Sowerby, Dewsbury and Halifax. In 1362 his father created him Earl of Cambridge, and in 1376, Warden of the Cinque Ports. When the old king died in 1377, his heir, the Black Prince, was also dead, so it was a nephew, not a brother, who raised Edmund to a dukedom in 1385. The city of York had been the centre of a Viking kingdom, and then an Anglo-Saxon earldom in the 10th century, administering the southern half of the ancient kingdom of Northumbria. With two brief exceptions, the earldom of York was never used again, and once the dukedom of York was created, it remained one of the most significant of the royal dukedoms for the next six hundred years. The 1st Duke of York, Prince Edmund, was favoured by his nephew, King Richard II, in preference to his older brother John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. So he was appointed ‘Keeper of the Realm’ several times in the 1390s while the King was away; some historians think the childless King even wanted to name York as his heir in 1399, instead of Henry of Bolingbroke, but by the end of the year, Bolingbroke had taken the throne (as Henry IV) and York was pushed aside and died a few years later.

the tomb of Edmund of Langley, Duke of York, in Langley Church

The House of York was born, and based at both Langley and Conisburgh. The dukedom merged with the Crown when the 4th Duke took the throne as Edward IV in 1461. It was re-created for the King’s second son, Prince Richard, in 1474, when he was still an infant—he was later also created Earl of Nottingham and Duke of Norfolk (as husband of the heiress to the Mowbray family, heirs of Thomas of Brotherton). In April 1483, he became heir to the throne when his brother became Edward V, but by June, both boys were declared illegitimate by their uncle, Richard of Gloucester, then disappeared into the Tower. From this point on, York emerged as the go-to dukedom for second sons: created in 1494 for Prince Henry, second son of Henry VII; 1605 for Prince Charles, second son of James I; and 1633 for Prince James, second son of Charles I. In all these cases, the Duke of York eventually succeeded his older brother to become king (Henry VIII, Charles I, James II). The latter made the most of his position as Duke of York, as Lord High Admiral and Warden of the Cinque Ports from the 1630s, and an active naval administrator in the 1660s: it is in his honour that the newly seized Dutch colony in the New World was renamed ‘New York’ in 1664. You might say this was his ‘apanage’ as it included extensive land grants; but unlike the medieval royal dukedoms, there was no specific land attached to the duchy of York—instead, James was given lots of financial benefits, from income derived from the postal service to wine tariffs. He also gained significant revenue from his appointment as governor of the Royal African Company. The Duke of York was a significant and divisive figure during the reign of his elder brother Charles II, notably in his conversion to Catholicism, but even more worryingly in his propensity towards the absolutist style of rule favoured by his cousin Louis XIV, which became even more apparent once he succeeded to the throne as James II of England and James VII of Scotland, and led to his deposition in 1688. James had also been Duke of Albany in Scotland, an early example of the pairing of English and Scottish dukedoms that would become the norm in the Hanoverian era. But before we move forward, we need to jump back once more, to the last royal dukedom created for a son of Edward III.

young James, Duke of York, with his father, Charles I

Edward III’s fifth son, Thomas of Woodstock, had at first been Earl of Buckingham (1377), and Earl of Essex, by marriage to the heiress of the vast eastern estates of the de Bohun and Mandeville families. He was also appointed to the traditional Bohun office, Constable of England. Unlike his older brother York, Prince Thomas allied with their other brother the Duke of Lancaster, in opposition to the rule of their nephew Richard II. He was created Duke of Gloucester in 1385, but this does not seem to have helped win his loyalty. He was also given the shadowy Duchy of Aumale in Normandy, but this was contested territory between England and France, and it is doubted whether this title really meant anything. The earldom of Gloucester, as detailed above, had been centred on a significant Norman feudal barony, but most of its lands were still held by the various heirs of the de Clare family, so the dukedom was based instead on the Bohun lands in Essex, notably Pleshey Castle. There was a link however, in that the Bohun earls of Hereford were co-heirs to one of the early Norman lords of Gloucester. Pleshey Castle, a short distance to the southeast of Stansted Airport, was built in the 11th century by the de Mandeville family, and remains today one of the best preserved motte and bailey castles from the Norman era. It later became part of the Duchy of Lancaster, and was sold by Elizabeth I in 1559, soon becoming derelict.

Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester
the remains of Pleshey Castle, Essex

The first Duke of Gloucester and his wife Eleanor de Bohun rebuilt some of Pleshey as a royal residence, but by 1397, his rivalry with his nephew Richard II had become toxic, and he was arrested and imprisoned in Calais, where he was murdered. His titles were declared forfeit, so his son was called only Earl of Buckingham. When he in turn died in 1399, his sister Anne of Gloucester took this grand inheritance to the Stafford family, and her descendants were eventually created dukes of Buckingham. With such significant royal blood and vast estates across England, it is therefore understandable why the Tudors saw this family as a threat, and brought the Duke of Buckingham down in 1521.

Another reason for this dynastic conflict was that Eleanor de Bohun had a sister, Mary, who took the other half of the Bohun lands to the House of Lancaster (which later morphed into the House of Tudor). Henry IV, before he became king, had married Mary and took the title Earl of Hereford (later briefly elevated to a dukedom for him in 1397). Henry IV had four sons: the eldest, Henry, Prince of Wales (and Duke of Aquitaine, the last English prince to be called this); the second son, Thomas, Duke of Clarence (see above); John, Duke of Bedford; and Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester. Henry and Thomas received their titles from their father, but John and Humphrey had to wait until their elder brother became king (Henry V) in 1413. We’ll return to Bedford below. Henry V also had half-brothers, the de Beauforts, who were given prominent titles and offices by their father, Henry IV, before he died: John was Earl of Somerset and Constable of England; Henry was Bishop of Winchester and Lord Chancellor; Thomas was Earl of Somerset, Admiral of the North and Lieutenant of Aquitaine. The latter two would remain prominent in the early regency government of young Henry VI, Winchester now as Cardinal de Beaufort, and Somerset, now as Duke of Exeter.

The head of this regency in 1426 was Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester. He had been a companion of Henry V in his campaigns in northern France, but became more interested in books and collecting than his older brothers, at first in his manor house on the banks of the Thames southeast of London, Bella Court, also known as the Palace of Placentia (or ‘Pleasance’, and eventually Greenwich Palace—rebuilt by Henry VII around 1500, and demolished in the 17th century), and later as a founder of Duke Humfrey’s Library at Oxford University (founded on collections he donated on his death in 1447). Like so many younger brothers we’ve encountered so far, Humphrey also wished to acquire a foreign principality to rule himself—he thought he had successfully obtained this with a marriage to the heiress of the counties of Holland and Hainault in 1423, but this clashed with the ambitions of the key English ally, the Duke of Burgundy, and the marriage was annulled in 1428. He died with no children.

Humfrey, Duke of Gloucester receiving a book now in the Duke Humfrey’s Library, Oxford
Placentia, as rebuilt by Henry VII about 1500

The dukedom of Gloucester was re-created for Richard of York, youngest brother of Edward IV, when he took the throne in 1461—though Richard was only 11. He was also given the castles and lands of Pembroke in Wales, and Richmond in Yorkshire, confiscated from the Tudor brothers. He was already being set up as the Yorkist power in the north, and in 1462, was named ‘Governor of the North’, and continued to reside in the north at the stronghold of his mother’s family, the Nevilles, Middleham Castle in Wensleydale, North Yorkshire. Richard consolidated his hold on power in Yorkshire in 1472 when he married his cousin Anne Neville, one of the co-heiresses of Middleham Castle and other estates in the north. This 12th-century stronghold of the Nevilles was later absorbed by the Crown under the Tudors, then sold by James I and slowly fell apart in the 17th century. In the 1470s, the Duke of Gloucester was loaded down with other royal offices, including Constable of England, Great Chamberlain of England, and Lord High Admiral. He took over other Neville estates such as Sherriff Hatton in Yorkshire and Penrith in Cumberland. As is well known, he was named Lord Protector for his nephew Edward V in 1483, then seized the throne and reigned for two years as Richard III before being killed in the Battle of Bosworth by Henry Tudor.

Middleham Castle, Yorkshire

Gloucester was once again a ‘third son’ dukedom for the youngest son of King Charles I, Prince Henry. He had been named Duke of Gloucester already as an infant in 1640, but was formally created as a duke and peer (with rights to sit in the House of Lords) in 1659, with the earldom of Cambridge, on the eve of the restoration of his brother Charles II in 1660. King Charles also appointed him Chief Stewart of Gloucester, an interesting attempt to re-connect the title to the place, but young Henry died shortly after. Another young prince, William, son of Princess Anne (the future Queen Anne) and Prince George of Denmark, was named informally Duke of Gloucester at his birth in 1689. He died in 1700 before this could be formally confirmed. But even though his life was brief, he did give his name, Duke of Gloucester, to the well-known main street of Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia (known fondly to students of the College of William & Mary as ‘DoG Street’). The title briefly appeared again in 1717 for Prince Frederick of Hanover, son of the Prince of Wales, though this was later superseded by the dukedom of Edinburgh in 1726, and then he himself became Prince of Wales in 1729. The pairing of Gloucester and Edinburgh then re-appeared a few years later as one of the ‘double duchies’ of the Hanoverian era, so we can return to it later.

Returning to the sons of Henry IV and the House of Lancaster, John, was created Duke of Bedford by his brother Henry V in 1414. Bedford had been an earldom, briefly, in the 1130s, centred on Bedford Castle; and again briefly in the 1360s, for a French son-in-law of Edward III. Prince John of Lancaster was first given forfeited lands of the Percy family and was created Constable of England in 1403. In addition to the title Duke of Bedford in 1414, he was also called Earl of Kendal and Earl of Richmond. In 1422, the King left him in charge in France as regent, after the death of King Charles VI (and the dispossession of the Dauphin’s rights to the French throne). The Duke of Bedford arranged the coronation of his young nephew Henry VI in Paris in 1431. He was also Governor of Normandy and founded the University of Caen. He lived in Rouen, in the Castle of Joyeux Repos. In Rouen he oversaw the trial and execution of Joan of Arc in 1431, and he died there a few years later—divine justice?

John, Duke of Bedford

As a ducal title, Bedford was briefly re-created for George Neville in 1470, then even more briefly for George, a forgotten third son of Edward IV, who only lived for two years (1477-79). It was then created again in 1485 for Jasper Tudor, which finally brings us a good link to the Tudors. Bedford itself was re-created once more, as an earldom, for the Russell family in 1551, who eventually became dukes of Bedford from 1694 to the present day. Jasper Tudor was one of the half-brothers of Henry VI. He had been created Earl of Pembroke in 1452, establishing himself in that great Welsh fortress, until he was deprived of it by the Yorkists in 1461. Restored to his lands and created Duke of Bedford in 1485 by his nephew, Henry Tudor, now Henry VII, he remained a faithful uncle until his death in 1495. Jasper’s older brother, Edmund, was created Earl of Richmond in 1449, probably to counter-balance the power of the House of York in the North, and in 1455 was married to the Beaufort heiress and given lots of lands in Westmorland and Lancashire, plus Baynard’s Castle for a residence in London. When he died in 1456, his posthumous son, Henry, became Earl of Richmond.

We’ve seen the name Richmond a few times already in this post. It was at first a Norman barony (or ‘honour’), centred in northwest Yorkshire—one of the largest estates in England. It was granted by William the Conqueror to a Breton lord, whose heirs were created the first earls of Richmond (1136), then succeeded to the Duchy of Brittany itself in 1156. For the next 200 years, the Yorkshire earldom and the Breton duchy were united. After 1342 the earldom of Richmond was confiscated and given to John of Gaunt, and later to John, Duke of Bedford—though the Breton dukes continued to claim the title, and it even passed into the royal family of France in the 16th century. Henry Tudor was Earl of Richmond after 1456, but lived in exile for much of his early life (supported ironically by the Duke of Brittany who claimed the same title), and the Yorkists considered his title forfeit and regranted the earldom to the Duke of Clarence and then the Duke of Gloucester. After the Lancastrian Earl of Richmond defeated Richard III at Bosworth in 1485, the title and its extensive lands merged with the Crown. Henry VII renamed the manor of Sheen southwest of London and built a palace there, Richmond. The palace is mostly gone, but the town and the great park retain the name Richmond. Henry VIII’s illegitimate son, Henry Fitzroy, was created Duke of Richmond in 1525, and also Duke of Somerset (a title associated with the Beauforts), but he did not live long with these honours and died in 1536, still a teenager. Richmond was re-created as an English earldom (1613) and then a dukedom (1623) for Ludovic Stewart, 2nd Duke of Lennox, by his cousin, King James VI and I. When this line died out in 1672, the dukedom of Richmond was re-created for an illegitimate son of Charles II, Charles Lennox, in 1675, and the Lennox family still hold this title today (and will be the subject of a separate blog post).

Richmond Castle overlooking the River Swale, Yorkshire

This link conveniently allows us to return to the Stewart Dynasty, and the 15th-century history of royal siblings in Scotland. This is also a good place to pause this narrative—stay tuned for part two of the story of ‘spare dukes’.

(images from Wikimedia Commons)

Dukes of Brunswick I: Wolfenbüttel and the Unwanted Princess

In January 1820, Caroline of Brunswick, Princess of Wales, legally became Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, and Queen of Hanover, as consort to the new King: George IV. But the King made it abundantly clear that Caroline was to have no part in his new reign and would not be crowned by his side in Westminster Abbey. They had barely spoken for over twenty years, and she had even resided abroad since 1814. Although quite popular with the general public, Caroline had made too many enemies at court and was unable to claim her rightful social position. She died just over a year later.

A satire of the reunion of George IV and his ‘Injured Wife’, Caroline of Brunswick

Many people know that the family of George IV was the House of Hanover, and that Hanover is in Germany. Most people do not know, however, that the older name for the House of Hanover is the House of Brunswick (or Braunschweig), and was therefore the same family as that of Caroline of Brunswick. Caroline’s branch, based in the town of Wolfenbüttel, was in fact the senior branch, and Brunswick-Lüneburg, based in the city of Hanover, was the junior, a fact that really irked the senior branch once the junior branch had been elevated in rank above them, first as Electors of Hanover in 1692, and then as kings of Great Britain and Ireland in 1714 (and then kings of Hanover itself in 1814).

arms of the dukes of Brunswick and Lüneburg: golden lions on red and a blue lion on gold with red hearts, and the arms of some of their smaller possessions. Also includes the white horse of Saxony, later the emblem of Hanover and Lower Saxony

This post will look at the family of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel and its common origins with the family of Brunswick-Lüneburg, aka Hanover. Emerging as a separate entity as early as the 1260s, the principality of Wolfenbüttel would remain one of the many divisions of the House of Brunswick, and included the dynasty’s ‘home base’ the city of Brunswick itself, until the re-shuffling after the Napoleonic Wars. Once Hanover had been proclaimed a kingdom, the territory of the Wolfenbüttel branch—with no other branches still extant—was called simply the Duchy of Brunswick, and would remain so until the dynasty became extinct in 1884.

the location of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel in context of the German Empire of the late 19th century.

Yet another name for the House of Brunswick was the House of Guelph, or Welf. The Welf Dynasty (or the Welfen in German) was one of the core ruling families of Germany in the earlier Middle Ages. At their height in the 12th century, they dominated both Saxony in the north and Bavaria in the south, and they rivalled the Hohenstaufens for the Imperial crown. This rivalry also spilled over into the larger dispute between papal and imperial power in the 12th century, in particular erupting into violence in the towns and communes of northern Italy where rival factions took on the Italianised names of ‘Ghibellines’ (from the Hohenstaufen castle of Waiblingen in Swabia) for the pro-imperial faction, or ‘Guelphs’ for the pro-papal faction. Eventually, imperial power prevailed over papal power, and the Hohenstaufens triumphed as medieval Germany’s most powerful dynasty. The Welfs were reduced to a regional power only.

There are several different origin stories for the Welfs. One was that there was a huntsman’s son called ‘Wolf’ who was raised by a childless duke of Swabia as his heir, until his identity was discovered and he retired to a monastery in shame. Another was that he was the 11th (elf in German) son of a Swabian count. Another story puts their earliest origins in the 5th century, as descendants of Edeko, the father of Odoacer, the German chieftain who took power in Italy at the fall of the Roman Empire. Records indicate that there were indeed counts with the name Welf in Swabia by the 8th century, based in the castle of Altdorf, in the Argengau, north of Lake Constance. Some suggest that they were originally Franks, from the Frankish heartland in the Ardennes region, and this first Welf Dynasty were certainly closely related to the Frankish chieftains who established the Carolingian Empire (which included Swabia): two daughters of the first Welf (d. 876) married father and son, Emperor Louis I the Pious, and Louis II the German, King of the East Franks. One branch of the House of Altdorf became kings of Burgundy (9th to 11th centuries), while the Swabian branch continued as counts of Altdorf. They founded an abbey on their mountain (St Martin’s Mountain), which later became known as Weingarten, and was the family sepulchre for many centuries. Leaving Altdorf to the monastery (which remained an independent ecclesiastical territory of the Empire until 1805), they moved their headquarters to a nearby castle of Ravensburg. Count Welf III became close politically to one of his kinsmen, Emperor Henry III, who raised him in rank in 1047 as Duke of Carinthia and Margrave of Verona, important imperial territories on opposing sides of the eastern Alps.

a postcard of the Basilica of St Martin in Weingarten
The entrance to the crypt of the Welf Dynasty in Weingarten

But in 1055, this last member of the first Welf dynasty died, and his sister, Kunigunde, took the inheritance to her Italian husband, Margrave Alberto Azzo II of Milan. His ancestors were also descended from Frankish warriors, those who established themselves on the Lombard plains of northern Italy in the 9th century. His family were known as the Obertenghi, as they stemmed from a lord named Obert (or Obrecht). From this marriage sprung two separate noble houses, one for Germany and one for Italy. The eldest son took the dynastic name of his mother, Welf, and inherited her lands in Swabia. The younger son, Fulk, received a castle his father had built in the Lower Po Valley, Este, and his descendants took that as their surname. A full legal division was made between the properties of the Houses of Welf and Este soon after, but there would always linger some memory of a shared origin, or at least that is what the Hanoverian historians of the early 18th century tell us. 19th-century genealogical historians loved marrying together the names of Guelph and Este as one big giant pan-European superfamily. Two of the illegitimate children of the Duke of Sussex (6th son of King George III) even took the surname ‘d’Este’.

Welf I, founder of the new Welf Dynasty, was appointed Duke of Bavaria in 1070 by Emperor Henry IV, as a reward for his loyalty in a rebellion of the northern German lords. He was followed in this post by his son Welf II, who married a significant Italian heiress, Countess Matilda of Tuscany, which drew the family once more into the political squabbles of northern Italy (and eventually the Guelph/Ghibelline rivalries described above). Welf II’s younger brother succeeded him in Bavaria as Heinrich IX ‘the Black’, who also married a major heiress, this time on the completely opposite side of the Holy Roman Empire: Wulfhilde, an heiress of the dukes of Saxony, whose inheritance included the lordships of Lüneburg, Northeim and Göttingen (these are today in Lower Saxony, which was the Saxony in his period). Duke Heinrich and Wulfhilde had two sons: Heinrich X succeeded as Duke of Bavaria, while the younger, Welf, was given the ancient family lands in Swabia (Altdorf and Ravensburg) and the lands of Matilda of Tuscany; when he died in 1191, in conflict with his nephew, Heinrich XI, he donated these extensive territories to the House of Hohenstaufen, and the Swabian and Tuscan lands were thus lost to the Welfs. Nevertheless, the older brother, Heinrich X ‘the Proud’, Duke of Bavaria, continued to aggrandise the family’s holdings in the north, by marriage to the daughter of Emperor Lothar II, who was also Duke of Saxony. When Lothar died in 1137, Heinrich succeeded him as Duke of Saxony and was expected to be elected as Holy Roman Emperor in his father-in-law’s place. As holder of two (of the six or so) German duchies, this alarmed the other German princes, and he was defeated in the election and deprived of his duchies by the new emperor.

Heinrich the Proud’s son Heinrich ‘the Lion’ regained the Duchy of Saxony in 1142 and also the Duchy of Bavaria in 1156. He did an unusual thing for a German prince, and married well outside normal dynastic circles: Matilda of England, daughter of King Henry II, was offered  in 1168 as part of the English king’s attempts to get closer to Imperial power as a support in his conflicts with papal authority. Heinrich the Lion’s influence thus stretched from England to Poland, the North Sea to the Alps. But again this power reach resulted in disaster, and when he refused to help the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa (a Hohenstaufen) in his Italian campaigns, he was tried and formally dispossessed of his duchies in 1180, and exiled to England. Although he and Frederick were reconciled in 1185, Heinrich was only restored to his allodial lands (lands held outright, not as fiefs of the emperor), the estates of his mother and grandmother in Saxony, notably around Brunswick.

Heinrich the Lion and Matilda of England

Brunswick was founded by a Saxon noble dynasty known as the Brunonids or Brunonians. Their chief town was ‘Bruno’s Town’ or Brunswick. They established themselves in the 10th century in the eastern parts of the Duchy of Saxony (known as ‘Eastphalia’—did you know there was once a counterpart to Westphalia?). They claimed to be descended from a certain Bruno, a duke of Saxony who died in 880, who was related to the Ottonian emperors (who were also from Saxony), thus giving them a blood relationship with the ruling imperial families. Heinrich the Lion built a new residence in Brunswick, the Dankwarderode (between about 1160 and 1175), in the style of imperial palaces of the time, and also Brunswick Cathedral, 1175. This remained the regional capital until the 15th century. The palace was remodelled in the Renaissance style in the early 17th century, but was abandoned again once the city became the main residence of the dukes of Brunswick once more from 1754, and they built a new, much grander ducal palace, the Residenzschloss, just outside the old medieval core of the city (see below). The Dankwarderode was thus used as a barracks and slowly fell apart, until it was reconstructed in 1887—in a wave of neo-medievalist passion that was prevalent in Germany at that time. It is now part of the Duke Anton Ulrich Museum complex and houses works of medieval art, including the famous bronze Brunswick Lion, dating from about 1170.

the Dankwarderode in Brunswick (photo Stefan Schäfer)
the Brunswick Lion (photo Daderot)

Heinrich the Lion died in 1195, leaving three sons. The eldest, Heinrich, was appointed Count Palatine of the Rhine, a key post in the western side of the Empire. The second, Otto, was initially raised by his mother’s family as a surrogate English prince, and was created Earl of York and Count of Poitou by his uncle, King Richard I. In 1198, with the support of his uncle, he was chosen by a group of anti-Hohenstaufen princes to be king of the Germans. After battling against the forces of his rival, Philip of Hohenstaufen, he finally secured the German throne and was even crowned Emperor in Rome in 1209, as Otto IV, but was defeated in battled and forced to retire in 1215.

the seal of Otto IV

The third son, William of Winchester (or William ‘Longsword’), was also born and raised at the English court, but as an adult managed the family’s northern territories, bordering Holstein, and entered into a marriage with the King of Denmark’s sister, hoping to share in Danish control over Holstein. Of the three sons, only William left a surviving male heir, Otto ‘the Child’.

Otto the Child inherited all the lands of the Welf family by 1227. He was able to fend off lingering Hohenstaufen enmity through his great family connections: to England through this grandmother and to Denmark through his mother. With English and Danish backing, and the support of the Pope (and the Guelph party in Italy), he may have hoped to succeed his uncle as emperor, but the Hohenstaufens made him a peace offering instead and restored him to his grandfather’s rank of duke. The title Duke of Saxony was already taken, so for the first time in Imperial history, a brand new dukedom was formally created, in 1235, using the name ‘Brunswick and Lüneburg’—these lordships would now be independent of their former feudal lord, the duke of Saxony, and would remain united as a single fief held directly from the emperor, meaning that although other lands could pass in and out of the dynasty, these two would always be at its core. Even as late as the 18th century, the Hanoverian kings of England were still known formally in Germany as dukes of Brunswick and Lüneburg.

Otto the Child receives the Duchies of Brunswick and Lüneburg from the Emperor

Lüneburg was at the centre of the Welf dynasty’s northernmost territories, in the Elbe valley, built atop a large deposit of salt, which in the middle ages was nearly as valuable as gold. The saltworks here were therefore defended by walls and a fortress, the Kalkberg. The town’s name doesn’t have anything to do with the moon or with lunacy, but probably meant ‘place of refuge’ (as one of the few large hills in a very flat region of Germany), from the ancient Germanic name Hluini. But the Latin name for the town, Selenopolis, while probably referring to salt, also puns with the name Selene, the goddess of the Moon. The salt monopoly drew trade and wealth to the area, and the early Saxon dukes made Lüneburg one of their capitals as early as the 10th century. In the 12th century, the town joined the Hanseatic League, and the Welfs profited greatly from its trading power, with the Kalkberg as one of their chief residences. The castle was destroyed in the War of Lüneburg Succession, 1370-71 (see below), and although the lands were fully restored to the Welfs, the town itself managed to secure its independence as an Imperial Free Town. The Welfs therefore moved their base south to Celle. Hanseatic trade declined in the 16th century, and the House of Brunswick would reclaim direct rule over the town of Lüneburg in 1637. As a point of interest to an American like myself, this town, traditionally known as ‘Lunenburg’ in English, gave its name to several colonial settlements founded by the British in the 18th century, notably in Nova Scotia and Massachusetts, but also a county in my home state of Virginia. The original Lüneburg was a garrison town for the Prussians from the later 19th century, and was, interestingly, the setting for the signatures on the first of the Instruments of Surrender of the Nazi forces on 4 May 1945. The now much reduced salt-hill of Kalkberg is today a nature reserve.

Kalkberg today

The new Duke of Brunswick-Lüneburg, Otto I, gained more territory by supporting the bid of his son-in-law, William of Holland, for the German throne in 1252. Otto’s other daughters were married to all of his powerful neighbours and potential rivals to his new ducal title: Saxony, Thuringia and Anhalt; his younger sons occupied the most important bishoprics that adjoined his territory: Hildesheim and Verden. The newly founded House of Brunswick was off to a great start.

the new duchy in the 13th century, stretching from Lüneburg in the north to Braunschweig in the south

But within only one generation, German tradition kicked in, and the new dukedom was partitioned amongst Otto’s sons. The eldest, Albrecht ‘the Tall’, created a principality centred on the Brunswick lands in the south, around the town of Wolfenbüttel, the upper Leine river valley, and the Harz mountains, a valuable source of copper and lead mining. The younger son, Johann ‘the Handsome’, received the northern territories of Lüneburg (with its salt), Celle and Hanover. They agreed to share the city of Brunswick itself, as a joint dynastic capital. From this point (1269) we have the first basic division between the branches of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel and Brunswick-Lüneburg.

The town of Wolfenbüttel had been founded along the river Oker, a few miles south of Brunswick, in the 10th century. The name refers to a ‘wolf’s residence’, and local counts built a castle here by the 12th century. This residence was seized and destroyed by the new duke of Brunswick in 1255 and a much grander castle was built in the 1280s. It was largely rebuilt in the 1540s after the religious wars and is considered a model of the Renaissance ‘water castle’, being defended still today by an elegant moat. After the court of the dukes of Brunswick relocated to Brunswick in the 18th century, Wolfenbüttel Castle fell into decline, but was given new life as a girl’s school in the 1860s—today it still houses a high school and a local museum. The town is now more famous as the home for one of the world’s great libraries—as we shall see below.

Wolfenbüttel Schloss (photo Brunswyk)

Another partition took place in 1292 amongst the sons of Albrecht I: Heinrich I ‘the Admirable’ created a principality of Grubenhagen, with a residence in Einbeck and a seat at Herzberg Castle dominating the southwest edge of the Harz Mountains. Grubenhagen was built earlier in the 13th century and probably named for a local family of Welf administrators called Grubo. It was once of the residences of the dukes of Brunswick-Grubenhagen in the 14th to 16th centuries, then fell slowly into ruin. The lands around it were sometimes used as a hunting retreat by princes of the House of Hanover in the 18th and 19th centuries. Many of the dukes of this line preferred to reside at Herzberg, which had been a seat of Emperor Lothar back in the 11th century. It was rebuilt as a half-timber fortress after a fire of 1510, and remained one of the chief ducal residences, passing to the line of Hanover in the 17th century, until the Hanoverians themselves moved to England.

the remaining tower at Grubenhagen (photo Gerhard Elsner)
Herzberg Castle (photo Elke Wetzig)

The line of Brunswick-Grubenhagen, based chiefly in the Harz Mountains, also had an interesting connection with the Mediterranean in the 14th century, with one daughter briefly becoming Byzantine Empress (1321-24), one son becoming prince-consort to the Queen of Naples, one Constable of Jerusalem (in title only, since that Kingdom had long fallen), and one ‘Despot of Romania’ (a principality in north-western Greece and Albania). This branch of the dynasty would split into sub-branches, then re-form into one principality again in 1526, before becoming extinct in 1596. These territories were disputed by the surviving Welf branches until they were awarded to the Lüneburg line in 1617.

Back in 1292, the younger son of Albrecht I, Albrecht II ‘the Fat’, received Wolfenbüttel. He had several sons: the eldest, Otto ‘the Mild’, was lord in Wolfenbüttel, succeeded by his brother Magnus ‘the Pious’ in 1344. The third, Ernst, was given a separate principality in the upper Leine valley, centred on the town of Göttingen, while the youngest brothers became bishops of Hildesheim and Halberstadt. Göttingen, anciently called Gutingi, and probably named from the nearby stream of Gote, was the location of an Ottonian palace, Grona, on a hill west of the river Leine—it was a frequent residence for German kings and emperors from the 10th and 11th centuries. A town was rebuilt in the 1150s, around an imperial foundation church, St Albani, and it developed into a key economic centre for the Welf dynasty, sitting along one of the major north-south trade routes. The ducal residence within the town was built in the 1290s (the Ballerhus fortress), but in the 1380s the town fought for its autonomy, and the fortress was destroyed. Unlike Lüneburg, however, it never developed into a fully independent Free Imperial City. This separate line of Brunswick-Göttingen continued until 1463, then its lands returned to the main Wolfenbüttel branch.

nothing remains of the palace of Grona or the ducal residence in Göttingen, but there are fragments of the old defensive wall here and there

Magnus of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel married a niece of Emperor Ludwig IV, so had hopes for reclaiming former Welf glories in the Empire, and was temporarily made Count Palatine (or imperial deputy) of Saxony. He secured an important archbishopric, Bremen, for his second son, and pressed to ensure that his older son, Magnus II ‘Torquatus’ (‘with a necklace’) would succeed to the lands of the northern, Lüneburg branch, if it failed. When that line did indeed fail in 1369, however, Magnus II and his son Friedrich had to fight against rival heirs in the House of Saxony, and were only victorious after twenty years of struggle. Duke Friedrich I, feeling confident after this victory, stood for election as emperor in 1400 in Frankfurt, and though he lost, was murdered on the way home, perhaps to prevent him from contesting the election, or from trying again later.

Having briefly re-united the northern Lüneburg lands and the southern Wolfenbüttel lands, the next generation of dukes divided them again: after 1428, there was another line in Lüneburg, and a line in Wolfenbüttel, out of which was carved another smaller principality, Calenberg, in 1432. Calenberg, took its name from a castle built on a small hill (from kahl, ‘barren’) in the meandering valley of the river Leine, a few miles south of Hanover. It had been built in the 13th century to watch over the nearby bishopric of Hildesheim, and only served as an occasional residence for the Brunswick dukes—mostly a vogt, or administrator, lived here, and the dukes of Brunswick-Calenberg lived elsewhere. Calenberg was developed into a larger fortress in the 16th century, then mostly destroyed in the Thirty Years War (all that remains today are some earthwork moats and ramparts). The lands of the separate principality of Calenberg returned to the main Wolfenbüttel line in 1584, then were given to the Lüneburg branch in 1634. It was this line that evolved into the House of Hanover by the end of the century, and then the royal house of Great Britain in 1714. The House of Hanover in Germany still owns the estates of Calenberg, located not far from their chief residence, Marienburg Castle.

Calenberg in the 17th century.

One of these dukes of Brunswick-Calenberg, Friedrich II ‘the Turbulent’, was considered to be a little out of control, involved in feuds and banditry, so he was deposed by his brother Wilhelm in 1484, and died in his prison. Wilhelm thus re-united Wolfenbüttel and Calenberg, as well as Göttingen, which he had inherited when his cousins from that line died out in 1463. Sticking with tradition, he re-distributed these to his sons in 1494, and retired, before dying in 1503. Heinrich was given Wolfenbüttel, while the younger son, Erich I, started a new line of Calenberg-Göttingen. Erich I was a committed commander of Emperor Maximilian I, and established a new seat of power, Rovenburg Castle, aka Landestrost, in the town of Neustadt, north of Hanover. He also built Erichsburg Castle in about 1530, to watch over the more southern parts of his domains.

Duke Erich I and Elisabeth of Brandenburg
Erichsburg Castle

Erich’s wife, Elisabeth of Brandenburg, accused his mistress of witchcraft, so he held a trial, leading to the deaths of several women by burning, but the mistress (Anna Rumschottel) escaped, only to be tried and burned elsewhere. Part of the tension between husband and wife was that, while the Duke remained loyal to the Catholic Church in the early years of the Reformation, his wife did not. After his death in 1540, she became regent and formally introduced Lutheranism into this part of Brunswick. Her son, Erich II, was initially Lutheran, but reversed his loyalties once he took over his lands. He too got involved in the witch craze, and in 1572 accused his very Protestant wife (Sidonie of Saxony) of witchcraft—she too was tried and acquitted. In a more unusual ending, Erich II of Calenberg-Göttingen and his second wife (the very Catholic Dorothée of Lorraine, a failed claimant to the Kingdom of Denmark), fought for the King of Spain in his conquest of Portugal in 1580, then settled in Italy in his wife’s estates in Tortona, then bought a major palazzo in Venice and retired from German politics altogether.

Duke Erich II of Brunswick-Calenberg-Göttingen

Meanwhile, Heinrich I of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel was an active warrior, taking on many regional fights in Lower Saxony (conquering the smaller county of Hoya for his dynasty) and in Frisia, where he was killed in 1514. He was an ally of the powerful Prince-Archbishop of Bremen, and two of his sons succeeded to that ecclesiastical seat—the elder, Christophe, was the last fully Catholic archbishop, while the younger, Georg, gradually admitted a moderate form of Lutheranism into his diocese in the 1560s. Duke Heinrich II of Wolfenbüttel, on the other hand, remained a Catholic, and a firm ally of the Emperor Charles V, so he sparred with his neighbour the Elector of Saxony—in 1542, he was chased out of his estates by the Elector and the coalition of Protestant princes, but was reinstated by the Emperor a few years later.

The tomb of Heinrich II in Wolfenbüttel, with two of his sons and his second wife, Sofie of Poland

Heinrich II’s son Julius, though as a third son not expected to succeed, became one of the most important princes of the line of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel. His older brothers having been killed in the religious wars, he succeeded his father as duke in 1568. He then succeeded his cousin Erich II in Calenberg and Göttingen, so the entire southern half of the Welf domains were once more united. Unlike his father, Julius was a passionate follower of Martin Luther and founded the Lutheran State Church in Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel. He was also passionate about education, so in 1576 he founded the Academia Julia, mostly to train Lutheran clergy—this developed into the University of Helmstedt, one of the most important universities in northern Germany until it closed its doors in 1810. The buildings remain and are really lovely.

Duke Julius of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel
Helmstedt

Duke Julius was a very capable ruler, in particular as an administrative reformer: of the tax system, the military, the judiciary. He was also a great collector of books, and his library of 1572 formed the core of the later Duke August Library (below). To improve his duchy he developed the copper and lead mines in the Harz Mountains, and built roads and canals to transport it, notably taking metals to renowned armouries in Wolfenbüttel. He also rebuilt the Hessen Castle, on the road towards the Harz, in a Renaissance style, and made it his chief residence. Originally a manor house from the 1120s, it was turned into a castle in the 14th century. After Julius’s reign, it became a dowager residence, then a hunting lodge by the end of the 17th century. It slowly decayed until it was renovated in the 1990s.

Schloss Hessen in the 17th century

Another castle Julius re-developed was Calvörde, which had been a Welf castle in the 14th century, but leased out to local nobles in the intervening centuries. The castle is unique with its rounded shape and round moat, but the district it commanded was also interesting as an exclave of the Duchy, far to the northeast (close to Magdeburg), guarding a strategic border between Brunswick and Brandenburg. It remained an exclave even after the reorganisation of the maps of Germany in 1815, all the way until the end of the German Empire in 1918.

Julius’ son, Heinrich Julius, continued his father’s work, and was considered one of the most educated princes of his time, with degrees in theology and law. As an administrator, he was Rector of the University of Helmstedt, but he also wrote plays and theological pamphlets himself. He was an avid supporter of church music, maintaining the famous Michael Praetorius as his Kapellmeister. Heinrich Julius rebuilt the Ducal Palace in Wolfenbüttel along more fashionable Renaissance lines (‘Weser’ style), constructed new buildings for Helmstedt, and commissioned a new church in Wolfenbüttel, the church of the Blessed Mary the Virgin or Marienkirche, in 1608. Though he was a Protestant, he became a chief counsellor to the Emperor Rudolf II, and was named to his Privy Council in 1607. He worked hard to try to resolve issues between competing factions of the Christian faith. He was less tolerant of other faiths however, and expelled the Jews from his territories, and persecuted witches with passion. His dynasty’s standing was increased as well through a marriage to a Danish princess, daughter of King Frederick II.

Of the many children of Duke Heinrich Julius and Elisabeth of Denmark, one of the youngest sons, Prince Christian, was set to be a great military commander in the early years of the Thirty Years War, in defence of the deposed Frederick of the Palatinate (the ‘Winter King’) and in coordinating the military invasion of his cousin and namesake, King Christian IV of Denmark. But he became ill and died, age just 26.

Prince Christian of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel

His older brother, the new duke of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel, was Friedrich Ulrich. He was apparently a wayward youth, a heavy drinker, and had been deposed by his own mother and her brother Christian IV of Denmark in 1616. Restored in 1622, he never really asserted himself as a ruler and lost much of his territory during the war, then died ignominiously in a hunting accident in 1634. With him died the last of this branch of the House of Brunswick. But there was one more lingering presence: his widow Anna Sophia, daughter of the Elector of Brandenburg, lived on for another 25 years, protecting the University at Helmstedt against the war ravaging all round, and founded a Latin school nearby, called the Anna-Sophianeum, which still exists today. She lived nearby in Schöningen Castle, another traditional Brunswick dowager residence (three in succession since the 16th century). It remained one of the main administrative centres for this part of the Duchy in the 18th century, but has decayed since.

Anna Sophia of Brandenburg
Schloss Schöningen (photo Juergen Bode)

With the death of Duke Friedrich Ulrich in 1634, the House of Brunswick underwent one of those periodic grand regroupings and redistributions of territory that frequently occurred in ruling German families. Wolfenbüttel, Grubenhagen, Calenberg and Göttingen all passed back to the main line of Lüneburg. But this redistribution had already been planned for in the generation before: Duke Heinrich of Lüneburg gave up this senior position in 1569 to his younger brother (along with Celle and Hanover—the core of the future Hanoverian Dynasty) in return for the potential succession rights to Wolfenbüttel. While he waited he ruled from Dannenberg Castle, southeast of Lüneburg—a medieval castle overlooking the Elbe valley. Today only the central tower remains.

Schloss Dannenberg

Heinrich’s elder son succeeded him in Dannenberg in 1598, and his second son, August, was initially given Grubenhagen, then in the reshuffling of 1634, the principality of Wolfenbüttel. Having not expected originally to succeed to any of his family’s major estates, Duke August had spent much his youth in study and travel, so as an adult he integrated his growing collection of books with the library he had inherited from his cousin Duke Julius, re-founding it as the Bibliotheca Augusta in Wolfenbüttel, but known today as the Herzog August Bibliothek.

Duke August of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel
Duke August in his library

By Duke August’s death in 1666, his library was the largest collection north of the Alps and already seen as a national treasure by Germans. August himself was a great promoter of German language and literature, but also himself wrote in Latin (including a book a cryptology). Many of the books were bound in a creamy white leather, which still gives a beautiful uniform appearance in the library today. A new building was added in 1723, with a rotunda in graceful neo-classical style, then a grand monumental building replaced it in 1886. Duke August’s library continues today to be a beacon of scholarship particularly for the history of the Reformation and the German Renaissance. Its collections preserve treasures like the illustrated Bible produced for Duke Heinrich the Lion in the 12th century.

the interior of the Herzog August Bibliothek today, with its white leather bindings (photo © Vincent Eisfeld / vincent-eisfeld.de / CC BY-SA 4.0)
The Herzog August Library in the 18th century
The Herzog August Library today (photo Losch)
the Gospels of Heinrich the Lion

The three sons of Duke August are all interesting in their own way, and usher the House of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel into the 18th century and participation in dynastic politics on a much grander scale. The eldest, Rudolph August, was mostly interested in his studies and in hunting, and gradually associated his more politically minded brother, Anton Ulrich, with administrative rule of the duchy. Rudolph August’s preferred residence was the summer hunting lodge, Hedwigsburg, named for a previous duchess of Wolfenbüttel, Hedwig of Brandenburg. This small palace, southwest of the town, was sold in the 18th century and has mostly disappeared.

The third son, Ferdinand Albrecht, was also a scholar and an art collector, residing in a new Brunswick apanage territory, Bevern, sliced off in 1667. Bevern was in the far western parts of the family lands, on the River Weser; its castle was built in the early years of the 17th century. There was a separate Brunswick-Bevern line until 1809, but the family only occasionally used the castle as a residence. In the 19th century, it was used to house retired ducal court officials and soldiers, then a ‘correctional institute’ and an orphanage. In the 20th century it was a school, a barracks, a prisoner of war camp, and so on. Since the 1970s, it has been restored and today houses a local history museum.

Schloss Bevern

Duke Anton Ulrich is the next of the most important dukes in the Wolfenbüttel story. His rivalry with the House of Hanover and his ambition on the European dynastic marriage market makes for fascinating reading. He was the sole ruler of the Duchy after 1704 and established his rule as a model of what would later be described as ‘enlightened absolutism’. Anton Ulrich was well educated like his siblings, with a doctorate in theology from the University of Helmstedt, and was keen to continue the family legacy in supporting scholarship: he hired the famous philosopher and historian Leibniz to be the librarian at the Duke August Library and built the grand new rotunda building noted above, as well as an opera house in Brunswick.

Duke Anton Ulrich of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel

He also built his own summer residence to the east of Wolfenbüttel, Schloss Salzdahlum, where he amassed a large art collection, which today is the core of the museum which bears his name in Brunswick—built in the 1750s, it was one of the first public museums in Germany. Salzdahlum and its gardens were designed in part to impress, to rival the gardens built by the Hanoverians in Herrenhausen. But its glories did not last very long. The gardens faded and the palace was dismantled in 1813.

Salzdahlum

The rivalry with the House of Hanover was fanned by the promotion of the Lüneburg branch—the junior branch by this point—to the rank of Imperial Elector in 1692, and their being named as heirs to a fully royal throne, Great Britain, in 1701. Hoping to raise his own branch’s dynastic profile, Duke Anton Ulrich turned to match-making. His own daughters were already married—to mostly small-fry German princes—so he turned to his grand-daughters: in 1708 he arranged a spectacular marriage for the eldest, Elisabeth Christine, to Archduke Charles of Austria, at that point still considered King ‘Carlos III’ of Spain. She grumbled, but agreed to convert to Catholicism, as did her grandpapa himself in 1709. Her younger sister, Charlotte Christine married the Tsarevich Alexis, son of Peter the Great in 1711, so she too had to convert, to Orthodoxy. Tsarevna Charlotte did not get on well with her husband and died shortly after giving birth to the future Peter II in 1715. Elisabeth Christine, on the other hand, did not become queen of Spain, but instead ascended with her husband to the throne of the Holy Roman Empire in 1711, and was the mother of the famous Empress Maria Theresa of Austria.

Elisabeth Christine of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel, Holy Roman Empress
Charlotte Christine of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel, Tsarevna of Russia

Old Duke Anton Ulrich died in 1714, age 80, and left his duchy to his son August Wilhelm, who, like his uncle, was more interested in art and hunting, and despite marrying three times in an attempt to produce an heir, maintained a fairly open same-sex relationship. He spent a large fortune on raising the splendour of the small court in Wolfenbüttel, and left the duchy’s finances in tatters when he died in 1735 and passed the estates to his younger brother Ludwig Rudolf (the father of the Tsarevna and the Empress).

Duke August Wilhelm

Duke Ludwig Rudolf had already had a long career as a general in Austrian service, and added new territory to the Brunswick domains: the county of Blankenburg, another eastern exclave in the Harz mountains, which had belonged to the bishops of Halberstadt since the Middle Ages but was secularised as part of the treaty of Westphalia in 1648. The county was raised to the level of a principality in 1708 at the time of his daughter’s marriage to a Habsburg archduke, partly to raise his rank, and partly to sever all the remaining feudal ties to Halberstadt which was now held by the king of Prussia.

The Duchy of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel by the 18th century, showing the exclaves of Blankenburg and Calvorde, and the now much larger Electorate of Hanover, to the north and south (in yellow)

When Duke Ludwig Rudolf died in 1735, the duchy passed to his cousin, Ferdinand Albrecht II of Brunswick-Bevern, who also had a long career as a solider in Austrian service, starting as an aide to Emperor Leopold and rising to the rank of General-Field Marshal in 1733. He was Duke of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel for only six months, then passed along the throne to his eldest son, Karl. Duke Karl I had an entire tribe of younger siblings, many of whom had illustrious and interesting careers of their own. Of his sisters, Juliana became queen of Denmark, Elisabeth Christine became queen of Prussia, wife of Frederick the Great, and Luise the mother of Frederick’s successor, Frederick William I of Prussia. The second son, another Anton Ulrich, was put forward by his aunt, the Empress Elisabeth Christine, as a groom for Anna Leopoldovna, a grand-daughter of Tsar Ivan V of Russia and a potential heir to the throne. He moved to Russia in the mid-1730s, married Anna in 1739, and briefly helped her rule Russia as regent for their infant son, Ivan VI, in 1740-41, before his wife’s cousin, Elisabeth Petrovna, daughter of Peter the Great, launched a coup and sent Anna, Anton, baby Ivan, and their entire family to Kholmogory near the Arctic Sea. Anna died soon after, and Ivan in 1764, separated from his family in Schlüsselburg Fortress. Anton Ulrich was then offered the chance to leave Russia by Catherine the Great, but he chose to remain with his other children in the far frozen north. He died in 1776, and in 1780, the younger children, two girls and two boys, were released into custody of their aunt the dowager queen of Denmark.

Prince Anton Ulrich, as a Russian general
Ivan VI (of Brunswick), Tsar of all the Russias

Two of the younger brothers of Karl and Antony Ulrich, Ludwig Ernst and Ferdinand, both became Field Marshals, the former for Austria and the latter for Hanover/Britain. Ludwig Ernst was also briefly involved in Russian politics, serving his brother’s wife as reigning Duke of Courland (on the Baltic) for six month in 1741 before he too was ousted as part of the coup of Elisabeth Petrovna. He then pursued a quite interesting career on the opposite side of Europe, in the Netherlands, where he became a military commander from 1750, and was appointed guardian of the young Prince of Orange, William V, after his mother died in 1759, managing the political affairs of the Dutch Republic for the next six years. Even after the Prince came of age, Ludwig Ernst of Brunswick continued to dominate government until he was pushed out in 1782, having to take the blame for Dutch military and economic failures of the 1770s. He went into exile and died in 1788.

Duke Ludwig Ernst of Brunswick-Bevern

Duke Karl I, who ruled Wolfenbüttel from 1735, kept the family tradition for scholarship alive, expanding the library in Wolfenbüttel and building a new college in Brunswick. He improved the Duchy’s economic situation by founding a porcelain company, at a castle on the Weser, Fürstenberg—which still produces porcelain products today. He also joined with other German princes with ties to the House of Hanover in selling several regiments of locally trained soldiers to Great Britain to use in its war against the American colonies in 1776. The province of New Brunswick in Canada was formed after the war, in 1784, having largely been settled by those English colonists remaining loyal to the House of Hanover, aka, Brunswick. There are lots of towns and counties all over the US, Canada and Australia with the name Brunswick, but these refer to the British royal family, not their cousins in Wolfenbüttel.

Karl I, Duke of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel, in Prussian military uniform

Karl I also relocated the capital back from Wolfenbüttel to Brunswick, and built a new, much grander ducal palace, started in 1718. It became the official residence of the family formally from 1754. This first palace burned down during the civil unrest of 1830, so was rebuilt in an even more imposing style—along the lines of Buckingham Palace or the new Imperial Palace in Vienna. The moving of the ducal capital away from Wolfenbüttel turned out to be a real blessing for the Herzog August Library, since the small non-industrialised town was entirely spared during World War II, leaving it with one of the best preserved collections of original half-timbered houses in north Germany today, whereas the city of Brunswick was mostly flattened, including the new Ducal Palace. The ruins of this building were fully demolished by the city council in 1960, but it was curiously resurrected in the early years of the 21st century, and re-opened in 2007 as a grand façade with a shopping mall inside (the Schloss-Arkaden). The grand equestrian statues of 19th-century dukes were also restored, flanking either side of the entrance.

the 18th-century Ducal Palace in Brunswick
Brunswick Palace in its reconstructed form (photo Heinz Kudalla)

Karl I’s son, Karl Wilhelm Ferdinand (known by all three names) began his reign in 1780. As a young man, he had been linked to his uncle Frederick the Great, and after starting off as an officer in the army of Hanover, became a Prussian general in 1773 and a General-Field Marshal in 1787. In that year he was sent to the Netherlands to support his kinsman, William V, Prince of Orange, against the revolting ‘Batavian Patriots’—and was praised for his swift, efficient and mostly bloodless way of handling the situation. As a ruler, he was popular, and good with finance. He built a new residence in Brunswick for his British wife, Augusta (sister of King George III), in 1768, which he named Schloss Richmond after one of the royal residences west of London. This cute wedding-cake palace still stands, and was acquired by the city in the 1930s—today it serves as official reception rooms for the city.

Princess August of Great Britain, Duchess of Brunswick
Richmond Schloss (photo Brunswyk)

Duke Karl Wilhelm Ferdinand sponsored the arts and sciences in Brunswick, and had plans to further develop the duchy’s economy and educational systems. But the French Revolutionary Wars broke out in 1792, and the Duke was appointed as Commander-in-Chief of the joint Austro-Prussian army sent to contain the Revolution and to rescue Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette if necessary. In July of that year he issued the famous ‘Brunswick Manifesto’ (which was actually written by the Prince of Condé, the leader of the royalist émigrés, and not, some historians argue, in fact reflecting the beliefs or aims of the more pacific Duke of Brunswick). The Manifesto was meant to scare the French republicans into submitting back to ‘reason’, but had the opposite effect, fanning the patriotic flames for war. And when war actually began, with the Battle of Valmy in late September, Brunswick was surprised to see how prepared the French patriots really were, and swiftly pulled his troops back to the Rhine. Brunswick made a successful counter-attack in the next year’s campaign, notably re-taking Mainz in 1793, but he resigned as Commander-in-Chief in 1794 due to interference in his command decisions by the young king of Prussia. He did not return to command until 1806, age 70, to lead Prussian troops once more in the Fourth Coalition War. He was defeated by Napoleon at Jena in Thuringia in October, and died shortly after.

Karl Wilhelm Ferdinand, Duke of Brunswick

Duke Karl Wilhelm Ferdinand was succeeded by his fourth son, Friedrich Wilhelm, since the elder three had all been declared ‘incapacitated’ due to mental disability. Mental illness was certainly rampant in the royal families of Europe in the later 18th century—not just limited to ‘Mad King George’, though continual inbreeding between the two branches of the House of Brunswick certainly contributed to its spread. Nevertheless, in 1795, another match was proposed, between the Duke’s second daughter, Princess Caroline, and her first cousin, George, Prince of Wales. They loathed each other from the start, and although they produced one legitimate child within 9 months of the wedding (Princess Charlotte), they rarely saw each other after that. Her story is one of many years fighting for her independence, and scandalising polite society through her brusque manners and indiscrete love affairs, notoriously with her Italian servant Bartolomeo Pergami, with whom she lived after moving abroad in 1814. The Prince of Wales tried several times to divorce her, but even once he succeeded as king (George IV) in January 1820, he was unable to secure it by legal means (an act of Parliament). Caroline, now legally queen, returned to England, and was very popular with the people—probably on account of George being so unpopular—but as we’ve seen above, was barred from attending her own coronation and died only a few weeks later in August 1821.

Caroline of Brunswick, Princess of Wales, 1804, by Lawrence
Caroline with Pergami

It is interesting to consider that Caroline’s wild and out of control behaviour may have been manifestations of the same mental disabilities as her brothers, especially considering that her only sister was renowned for the same outrageous behaviour. Auguste married the Duke of Württemberg in 1780, and was quickly separated from him, accused of uncouth behaviour, incivility and then all-out adultery. She died in 1788 giving birth to an illegitimate child. Her husband, Friedrich, went on to become the first king of Württemberg in 1806.

Auguste of Brunswick, Duchess of Württemberg

Caroline’s brother, Duke Friedrich Wilhelm, did not acquire so much extra territory and exalted titles as his brother-in-law and uncle, the first king of Württemberg and the first king of Hanover (George III). Brunswick remained a fairly small state, though independent (ie, it wasn’t absorbed by a larger state like many other German principalities), and the Duke joined the new German Confederation, the successor to the Holy Roman Empire. In 1807, however, the Duchy was occupied by France, and he took refuge in Baden, at the court of his wife’s family. From 1809, he formed an army of resistance, the ‘Black Brunswickers’ (who wore black in mourning for their duchy), and he became known as the ‘Black Duke’. They successfully retook the city of Brunswick, but he soon retreated with his mother to her homeland in England. He became a lieutenant-general in the British army, and commanded the Black Brunswickers in the Peninsular War, where they were mostly decimated. He returned to a liberated Brunswick in 1813, but was killed in the Battle of Quatre-Bras in Belgium, in June 1815, on the eve of the Battle of Waterloo.

The Black Duke of Brunswick, Friedrich Wilhelm

The new duke of Brunswick, Karl II, was only 10 years old. He had spent the war years in England with his grandmother, Augusta, and remained under the guardianship of his cousin the Prince Regent once he became duke. The Prince Regent, as regent also of Hanover, imposed a new constitution on both of the Brunswick duchies, and when Karl II took the reins himself in 1823, he found that his powers had been severely curtailed. He also found he had lost the income due to him as head of the House of Welf (recall that the House of Lüneburg, ie, Hanover, was the junior branch), and protested, with support of the Austrian emperor, but made little headway. He tried to dismantle the new constitution, but as revolutionary fervour once again spread across Europe in 1830, he was overthrown by a popular movement in Brunswick and sent into exile. From Paris, then London, then Geneva, he continued to issue formal protests, first against his deposition, then against Hanover’s continued domination of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel, then over Prussia’s takeover of Hanover in 1866. He died in Geneva in 1873 and left a vast fortune to the city, who erected an equally vast statue in his honour.

Karl II, Duke of Brunswick, as a young man

In 1830, Karl II had been replaced with his brother, Wilhelm. Although he reigned for a very long time, over fifty years, he never made very much of a mark on German history. He joined the North German Confederation in 1866 (formed by Prussia, so therefore something his elder brother loathed), served as a general in the Prussian military, and left most government business to his ministers.

Wilhelm, Duke of Brunswick

In fact, Duke Wilhelm of Brunswick spent most of his time at Oels Castle in Silesia. This castle and its town had been the centre of an independent duchy since the early 14th century, one of the many pieces of the fragmented Duchy of Silesia governed by Piasts (the former ruling family of Poland), fully Germanicised by the end of the Middle Ages. The original dynasty became extinct in 1492, and the duchy of Oels passed to the Podiebrad family of Bohemia, then the dukes of Württemberg in 1647, and from them to the House of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel in 1792. By this point, Silesia was a province of Prussia, so when Duke Wilhelm died with no direct heirs in 1884, the King of Prussia reclaimed the ancient fief for himself as overlord—in 1905, it became the personal property of the Crown Prince of Germany, who continued to live there even after the Great War. In 1945, all of Silesia became part of Poland, so the castle at Oleśnica (as it became known) was nationalised and used for various state organisations. Renovated in the 1970s, it houses offices of a national health charity.

the Castle of Oleśnica today

Duke Wilhelm did try to leave his other possessions, notably the Duchy of Brunswick itself, to the Duke of Cumberland (Ernst August, the son of the deposed King George V of Hanover), but this was disputed—by the old law of the Holy Roman Empire, it should have reverted to the junior line, the House of Hanover; but since Hanover itself was now a part of Prussia, the King of Prussia, now German Emperor, claimed it for himself. It was administered by imperially appointed governors until 1913, when Kaiser Wilhelm II gave it as a wedding present to his daughter, Viktoria Luise, and her husband, none other than Ernst August of Hanover, thus ending the feud between the houses of Hohenzollern and Hanover. This wedding was the last great gathering of European royals before the Great War, attended by the German Emperor and Empress, but also the King and Queen of Great Britain and the Tsar of Russia. The newly restored Duchy of Brunswick was not long-lived, however, and the Duke and Duchess abdicated alongside all the other German princes in November 1918.

Today the city of Brunswick is bustling once again, and the Duke August Library remains one of the jewels in the crown of German academia. I was incredibly fortunate to receive a fellowship to study there for three glorious summer months about five years ago. The legacy of one of the oldest princely houses in Europe continues in this corner of northern Germany.

(images Wikimedia Commons)

House of the Dragon: The Basarab Princes of Wallachia and the Legend of Count Dracula

One of the most persistent and popular legends in the history of eastern Europe, and in the steep Carpathian Mountains of Transylvania, is the story of an undead prince, a vampire, the ultimate blood-sucker, Count Dracula. His purported residence, Bran Castle, is the top tourist destination of Romania, with hundreds of thousands of visitors per year. Yet a quick scan of internet sites devoted to the famous prince of darkness reveals that the character created by the British novelist Bram Stoker in 1897 has almost no relation to either Bran Castle or with the notorious warrior prince, Vlad the Impaler, on which Stoker is thought to have based the character.

Bran Castle

So who was Vlad the Impaler? For starters, although much of his history is indeed connected to the Principality of Transylvania (about which I wrote two lengthy blog posts earlier this year), the main territory over which he ruled was the neighbouring Principality of Wallachia. As he is known in Romanian, Vlad Țepeș, or Vlad III, was Voivode (duke or prince) of Wallachia in the mid-15th century, and was infamous even in his own time as a particularly cruel warlord who beheaded and impaled his enemies by the thousands. The name Dracula came from his father, Vlad II ‘the Dragon’, and this branch of the family—the Basarab Dynasty—were known as the Drăculești, the House of the Dragon.

the most famous painting of Vlad III ‘the Impaler’

This post will focus on the Basarab Dynasty as rulers of Wallachia, one of the three principalities that eventually made up the Kingdom of Romania in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Over 300 years, from the early 14th century until they died out in the mid-17th century, the Basarabs were an incredibly violent dynasty in an incredibly turbulent region, on the front lines between the Christian West and the Islamic East, between the Kingdom of Hungary and the Ottoman Empire. Modern nationalist defenders of the extreme cruelties meted out by warlords like Vlad the Impaler and others of his family argue that such measures were essential in order to achieve regional independence in the face of much more powerful neighbours.

the three principalities in the late 16th century

Wallachia is the southernmost of the three Romanian principalities. Occupying a broad plain bounded on the north by the Carpathians and on the south by the broad river Danube, it formed part of the Ancient Roman province of Dacia, and retained a Latin-based Romance language through the centuries when most of the surrounding lands became increasingly Slavicised. In fact, their own name for this region is Țara Românească (‘the Romanian Land’); whereas Wallachia comes instead from the name given by non-Romanians to outsiders, from the ancient Germanic term for ‘other’ (walhaz—which also gives us Welsh and Walloon). In the past, the country was referred to as Vlahia, Wlachia, or Valahia, and the people as Vlachs. Bulgarian Slavs called it Vlashko, while Turks added a vowel at the start to form Eflak. The Hungarians—often the overlords, extending their rule across the mountains from Transylvania—called it Havasalföld, or ‘Snowy Lowlands’, or sometimes Ungrovlahia. Hungarian kings took control of this area of the lower Danube valley in the late 900s (from the Bulgarians), and ruled jointly with their Turkic allies who had settled from the eastern steppes, the Cumans (sometimes the King of Hungary also added the title ‘King of Cumania’). But this coalition was destroyed by the Mongol invasions of the 1240s, and afterwards the region was divided between Hungary north of the Danube and Bulgaria to the south. They appointed local Vlach lords to act as governors or voivodes. This Slavic term literally means ‘war lord’, but has also been translated as ‘duke’ (which also originally meant a leader of troops) and sometimes as ‘prince’. Wallachian rulers were also called hospodar, another Slavic word for lord, and in Romanian domn (from Latin dominus). All of these terms implied a degree of autonomous rule, but usually as a vassal to a greater power.

an illustration of the Wallachian countryside in a German travel book, 1480s

The first known Wallachian voivodes were appointed by the King of Hungary in the 1240s-1280s. Some ruled in the western part of the region, known as Oltenia (west of the River Olt); and others ruled in the east, Muntenia (‘mountains’). Historical records first refer to ‘Wallachia’ as a whole under the voivodeship of Seneslau, whose name is thought to be Slavic, Seneslav, but who is specifically referred to as a Vlach. Other Vlach names are similarly reflective of the mixed ethnicities in this region: Seneslau’s possible son, Tihomir (Thocomerius) could take his name from toq-tämar, Turkic (or Cuman) for ‘hardened steel’; while Tihomir’s son’s name, Basarab, could also be of Turkic origin, as basar aba, ‘ruling father’. Basarab is considered to be the first verifiable historical figure, appointed voivode in about 1310, but rebelling against Hungarian rule and establishing his own autonomy by about 1325. The King, Charles of Anjou, tried to retake the province by force in 1330, but was defeated at Posada, in the mountains separating Transylvania from Wallachia, in one of those epic nation-building foundational battles in which a small force of local warriors and peasants fight off a much larger foreign army. Basarab is therefore known as ‘the Founder’ and gave his name to the Wallachian dynasty that followed (and also, more tangentially, to the region further to the east known as Bessarabia, now Moldova).

Bsarab I ‘the Founder’, Voivode of Wallachia
the Battle of Posada, 1330–with Vlach peasants throwing rocks at Hungarian knights

Basarab may also be the historical version of a more legendary figure, Radu Negru (‘the Black’), who supposedly founded a new Wallachian capital at Câmpulung—‘long field’, the site of an ancient Roman colony, Campus Longus. Radu itself comes from the Romanian word for ‘joy’ and it will be one of the most common names used in the dynasty (and indeed throughout Romania today). Not much is known about Basarab I. Was he Orthodox, in opposition to Hungary’s Catholic king? For about 25 years, he ruled Wallachia as an ally of Bulgaria, against its enemies the Serbs and the Byzantines. This alliance was sealed through marriage, and his daughter was first known as Theodora, Tsarina of the Bulgarians, and later as the nun Theophana—since 2022 recognised by the Romanian Orthodox Church as a saint. The Prince developed a new capital in the 1340s, at Curtea de Argeş, ‘the court on the Argeş’, the latter being one of the main tributaries that flows south from the Carpathians into the Danube. This town was located close to the Bran Pass, which connected Wallachia to Transylvania, and in particular to Romanian settlements north of the mountains and the significant trading city of Kronstadt (‘crown city’), founded by Hungarian kings and populated by Saxon/German colonists in the 12th and 13th centuries (today’s Braşov).

remains of the ‘court’, Curtea de Argeş

Basarab also built the Princely Church of St Nicholas, with its amazing painted interiors, and by the 1350s, in the reign of his son and successor, Nicolae Alexandru, had attracted the Metropolitan of the Orthodox Church to relocate his seat to the new capital. A monastery was built for him, which became the dynastic necropolis; re-founded as a cathedral in the early 16th century. The cathedral of Curtea de Argeş was re-appointed as a dynastic  burial place, fully royal once Romania became an independent kingdom in the 19th century, and it remains so today.

St Nicholas Basilica (Photo Alexandru Baboş)
St Nicholas, interior (photo, Fusion of Horizons)
the Cathedral at Curtea de Argeş (photo Alexandru Baboş)

Prince Nicolae Alexandru made a deal with the Hungarian king in 1354, recognising him as overlord and allowing him to send Catholic missions to Wallachia and to establish a Catholic diocese, to operate alongside the Orthodox churches and serve an increasing number of Saxon merchants settling south of the Carpathians and along the Danube Valley. Their presence would become a source of conflict later, as we shall see when we return to the story of Vlad the Impaler.

Successive voivodes, Vladislav I, Radu I, re-affirmed their loyalty to Hungarian kings, in exchange for a more secure title to the Romanian exclaves north of the Carpathians in Transylvania (Amlaş and Făgăraş). They married Hungarian noblewomen from Transylvania, but their daughters continued to make kinship ties with their other (Slavic) neighbours, resulting in another Bulgarian tsarina and a tsarina of the Serbs. Voivode Dan I tried to extend his rule south into Bulgaria but was defeated and killed in 1386.

Radu I and his wife showing their patronage for the church in Curtea

His brother Mircea I was more successful, and earned the nickname ‘Mare’ (‘the Great’). He gained the territory at the mouth of the Danube on the Black Sea (Dobruja) in 1388, as well as the region bordering Serbia and Hungary, the Banat of Severin, in 1389. He strengthened the army and the Principality’s borders, brought in increased trade and developed a court culture to rival other princes. In 1394, Prince Mircea went to the aid of the Bulgarians now that the Ottoman Turks had arrived in the Balkans led by Sultan Bayezid. At first he repulsed the Ottoman attack in the valiant Battle of Rovine (another of these David vs Goliath moments celebrated in song and story), but was later chased out and replaced as voivode (or bey in Turkish) by Vlad I. Mircea joined the grand western crusade against the Turks in 1396, which culminated in their defeat at the Battle of Nicopolis, a severe blow to Christian power in the Balkans. But he reclaimed his throne in 1397, defeated the Turks again in 1400, and even intervened in Ottoman internal politics in the confused dynastic succession of 1403-06.

Mircea the Great

Prince Mircea also moved the capital of Wallachia once more, to the town of Târgoviște, to be a bit more central to the region. This town, which takes its name from the old Slavic word for ‘marketplace’ and had been settled by Saxon traders emigrating from Transylvania in the early 14th century. Mircea began the transfer of the princely court in about 1400, and fortified his residence—its grand tower, the Chindia Tower, was added later in the century by Vlad III.

ruins of the voivode’s court in Târgoviște (photo Nicubunu)
Chindia Tower (photo Nicubunu)

Mircea the Great ruled peacefully until 1418 when he was succeeded by his son Mihail then his brother Radu II. Things start to get really messy again in the 1420s, as the dynasty split into two branches: the descendants of Mircea’s brother Dan I (the Dănești), and the family of Mircea’s illegitimate son, Vlad II ‘Dracul’ (the Drăculești). Different cousins competed for the throne with a variety of supporters, sometimes the local Romanian boyars, or nobles, and sometimes the Ottoman sultan, who first started demanding tribute in this period. Dan II re-asserted Wallachian independence, but was deposed and killed by invading Ottoman forces who placed his cousin, Alexandru I Aldea on the throne in 1432. Alexandru thus acknowledged the suzerainty of the Sultan and did formal homage to him in Adrianople.

When he died in 1436, Alexandru was succeeded by his brother, Vlad II. Vlad had been sent by his father to be raised at the court of Sigismund of Luxembourg, King of Hungary—initially as a hostage, and later as a guest and friend—and he was granted membership in the King’s new order of chivalry, the Order of the Dragon. When he returned to Wallachia at the head of a Hungarian army to take up his brother’s throne, he wore the badge of this order and thus was given the nickname ‘Dragon’ or ‘Dracul’. But Sigismund died in 1437, and, finding himself without a powerful patron, Vlad II turned to the Ottomans and agreed to do homage and pay a tribute. A few years later, in 1441, he changed his spots again and supported the invasion of Ottoman territory by the Hungarian prince of Transylvania (János Hunyadi), for which he was deposed and imprisoned by the Sultan. He was replaced by his cousin from the rival Dănești branch, Basarab II. But only a year later Vlad II was put back in charge of Wallachia, though he had to leave two of his younger sons, Vlad and Radu, in Ottoman hands as hostages, and agreed to send 500 Vlach boys to the Sultan’s court to be trained as Janissaries. Yet again, in the same year (1443), he turned against the Sultan and joined the crusade of western princes who invaded Bulgaria, and were badly defeated at Varna in November 1444. Vlad II Dracul made a separate peace with the Sultan in 1446, prompting his former ally Hunyadi to invade Wallachia in 1447; Vlad was captured and executed just outside the new capital at Târgoviște.

Vlad II, Dracul

Vlad’s eldest son, Mircea II, had been a leader of his father’s troops in the Crusade of Varna; at the time of the invasion of 1447 by Hunyadi, he was captured by the frightened Wallachian boyars, who poked his eyes out and buried him alive. The horrors of this century were really starting to intensify. Again, a prince from the rival branch, Vladislav II, was named voivode, probably by Hunyadi, and ruled peaceably for several years. In 1455, however, he decided to bite the hand that fed him, and invaded Transylvania to lay claim to the Romanian settlements there and the key trading city of Kronstadt/Braşov; Hunyadi responded by supporting a coup by one of those two sons of Vlad II Dracul that had been left as Ottoman hostages back in the 1440s: Vlad III, the future Impaler. The cousins met for single combat in August 1456 and Vladislav was killed. Vlad Dracula (or Drakulya, ie, son of Dracul) soon revealed himself to be one of the most intensely ruthless rulers this part of the world had ever seen. In the face of ongoing opposition to his rule by Vladislav’s brother, Dan III, he staked his claim in the capital by rounding up Wallachian boyars and Saxon merchants who supported his rival, and impaled them on stakes all around the city. Dan led an invasion, with Hungarian support, in 1460, but was defeated in the Bran Pass, forced to dig his own grave, and beheaded. His supporters were impaled. Two years later, the Ottoman Sultan sent envoys, and (so the story goes) Vlad nailed their turbans to their heads, since they were ‘so attached’ to them that they wouldn’t remove them in his presence (a sign of honour). The Impaler reportedly created a ‘forest’ of 20,000 impaled bodies all around the city of Târgoviște to frighten Ottoman troops sent to avenge the ambassadors.

a contemporary German woodcut illustrating Vlad III in a history about him:
Die geschicht dracole waide

Already Vlad III was getting a reputation for extraordinary cruelty—real or exaggerated. Contemporary writers spread tales of his excesses across Europe. As the years went by, these stories grew: a German woodcut from 1499 shows ‘Dracule waide’ (voivode) dining casually amongst his impaled victims. As noted above, later Romanian nationalist historians would defend this reputation, seeing his severe acts as necessary in the goal of securing Wallachian autonomy in the face of two powerful neighbours and the internal self-interested treachery of the boyars. He is also seen by some as a crusader for the Orthodox Church.

another woodcut from the period

Dracul does mean ‘devil’ (not ‘dragon’) in modern Romanian, but there is no indication that Vlad Țepeș (Romanian for ‘the Impaler’) was ever connected with local legends of vampirism, undead demons who survive by drinking human blood, until the era of the novel Dracula by Bram Stoker—and even here the link is only indirect. Stoker also used the name Nosferatu, thinking (probably incorrectly) that it was a Romanian term for ‘undead’.

Bran Castle (perhaps due to the closeness of the name to Bram?) is today marketed as ‘Dracula’s Castle’ to foreign tourists, though it does not fit the description in Stoker’s novel very well, and really had very little connection to the historic Vlad the Impaler. It was built in the 1370s by the Saxon merchants of the town of Kronstadt (Braşov) and was maintained by them for centuries as the key defence of the mountain pass between Wallachia and Transylvania. Bran Castle became a royal residence in the 1920s, and was significantly renovated by the Romanian royal family; it was confiscated by the Communists in 1948, then restored to the family in 2006, in the person of Princess Ileana of Romania’s son, Archduke Dominic of Austria.

Bran Pass

Dracula’s actual castle is high in the mountains of the upper Argeş valley: Poenari Castle, perched on a rocky spur. It had been the chief stronghold of the Basarab lords in the 13th and 14th centuries, and was rebuilt by Vlad III in the 1450s, supposedly using the slave labour of those same Wallachian boyars he so persecuted at the time of his accession to power.

Poenari Castle (photo Nicubunu)

Eventually, and unsurprisingly, these Wallachian boyars turned against him, and in 1462 compelled him to cross into Transylvania to seek help from the Hungarian king, Matthias Corvinus, who imprisoned him instead, in his castle at Visegrad for thirteen years. While there, some think he became a Catholic, and gradually earned Corvinus’ trust, and so he was again placed at the head of a Hungarian army to attack Ottoman troops first in Bosnia in 1476, then in Wallachia to reclaim his throne.

Back in 1462, the post of Wallachian voivode had at first been given, by the Ottomans, to Vlad’s younger brother, Radu III ‘the Handsome’ (‘Frumos’). Like Vlad, Radu had also been sent to the Ottoman court as a child hostage, but became more acclimated, and a very close friend to the Sultan’s son, Prince Mehmet. It is thought the teen boys became lovers, and Radu may have converted to Islam. Once Mehmet became Sultan (Mehmet II) in his own right in 1451, Radu was given a place of honour in his court (perhaps as a Janissary commander), and took part in the conquest of Constantinople (1453). Ten years later he was named voivode of Wallachia, promising to restore the privileges of the urban boyars and merchants in Târgoviște and Braşov that his brother had so brutally repressed. His reign was troubled, however, and he was deposed and restored several times, including by his son-in-law, Prince Stefan III of Moldavia, who was opposed to Radu’s loyalty to the Sultan. He died sometime in 1475 and was replaced as voivode by his cousin (from the Dan branch), Basarab III ‘Laiota’. It was this ruler Vlad the Impaler unseated in 1476; but by the end of the next year, the latter returned with Ottoman support, and drove Vlad from power once more. He was killed in battle in early 1477, probably on the outskirts of Bucharest.

Basarab III Laiota.

Accounts vary about Vlad the Impaler’s death; one Italian diplomatic source says his body was cut into pieces and his head sent to Mehmet II and impaled (fittingly) on a high stake in Constantinople. One of his possible burial sites is Comana Monastery, to the south of Bucharest, which had been built by Prince Vlad in 1461. It was demolished and rebuilt in 1589, but the crypt remained, where archaeologists in the 1970s claimed to have found the headless body of a prince.

Comana church and monastery (photo Marius Lucian Andrei)

The city of Bucharest, or București, was at this time starting to be regarded as the new princely capital. A relatively new settlement, possibly taking its name from the Romanian word for ‘joy’ (bucurie), it was the preferred summer residence of Vlad III who built what later became known as the Curtea Veche (‘Old Court’) sometime before 1460. The palace was extended and renovated in the late 17th century, but was replaced with a ‘New Court’ in 1775. A church was added to the princely complex in the mid-16th century, with tombs associated with the Basaraba dynasty in this period. București and Târgoviște alternated as Wallachian capitals, with the former predominating in periods of more pro-Ottoman relations due to its proximity, then formally becoming the sole capital towards the end of the 17th century.

Curtea Veche, Bucharest, with a bust of Vlad III (photo Stefan Jurca)
the church at Curtea Veche (photo Valerii Ded)

The successors of Vlad III came and went in quick succession, with the two branches of the family continuing to vie for power with or without Ottoman support. Basarab IV, from the Dănești branch, was in a way the inheritor of The Impaler’s mantle, known as Țepeluș, ‘the Little Impaler’ (how sweet!). He ruled as voivode twice in the late 1470s-80s and sided with the Ottomans in a great clash with the Hungarians in 1479. He was killed in 1482, either in battle or in a boyar conspiracy. His successor was again from the Drăculești branch, an illegitimate half-brother of Vlad III, known as Vlad IV ‘the Monk’, put on the throne by the neighbouring Prince of Moldavia, but soon forced to accept Ottoman suzerainty once more. Strangely, he seems to have died in his bed, of old age, in 1495, and even was succeeded peacefully by his own son, Radu IV ‘the Great’, who ruled for another decade, and also seems to have died peacefully. His epithet ‘the Great’ refers not to any great victories, but to his position as a great patron of the arts and protector of the Orthodox Church, not just in Wallachia, but across the Orthodox world.

Radu the Great was succeeded by his cousin, Vlad the Impaler’s son Mihnea, who, like his father, pressed for Wallachian independence but was challenged by boyars who enjoyed the favour of the Ottoman court and the profits to be gained from being part of that vast eastern empire (which makes sense to a non-nationalist historian like me). Mihnea was given the nickname ‘the Wicked’ by his enemies, including one of these boyar families, the Craioveşti, who would later take on the role of voivode themselves. Prince Mihnea was run out after only a year, followed only a few months later by his son, Mircea III Dracul.

Radu the Geat

He was succeeded by yet another cousin, Vlad V ‘the Younger’ (a son of Vlad ‘the Monk’), in 1510, placed on the throne by the increasingly powerful Craioveşti family with Ottoman support. But a year later, he switched allegiances and swore fealty to the King of Hungary—this of course led to his deposition the following year by the same boyars and Ottoman soldiers, and he was decapitated. A different kind of ruler succeeded in 1512: Neagoe, who claimed to be from the Dănești line, a son of Basarab IV, and not his mother’s husband, one of the Craioveşti boyars. He was voivode for nearly a decade, and proved to be a capable administrator and a skilled diplomat, desiring to act as mediator between eastern and western branches of Christianity. He sponsored the building of Curtea de Argeş Monastery (1517) and the Metropolitan Cathedral in Târgoviște. He was also a scholar, and published a Romanian translation of the Gospels in 1512. He was canonised by the Orthodox Church in 2008.

Neagoe Basarab

The sixteenth century continued in much the same fashion: princes named either Vlad or Radu had relatively short reigns, either with support or in defiance of the Ottomans. The principality was basically independent but paid heavy tributes to the Sultan. Prince Patrascu ‘the Good’ (‘Bun’) ruled in the 1550s and helped the Ottomans restore John Sigismund Zápolya as Prince of Transylvania in defiance of the Habsburgs. His cousin Alexandru II was raised at the Turkish court and put on the throne in the 1570s, but like his great-grandfather Vlad the Impaler, he soon became known for his cruelty and was deposed and murdered by his boyars. His son followed in the 1580s, Mihnea II ‘Turcitul’ (‘turned Turk’) who earned his nickname late in life by converting to Islam (having been thrown out of Wallachia in 1591), and accepting an appointment as sanjak (governor) of Nikopolis in Bulgaria (as Mehmet Bey).

the coat of arms of Wallachia was a black (later golden) eagle, with e cross, the sun and the moon
(this still features as one of the quarters of the modern Romanian seal)

By the mid-1590s, the voivode of Wallachia was no longer appointed exclusively from within the Basarab family, with other local families filling the post. But the dynasty had one more burst of glory in the person of Michael ‘the Brave’ (or Mihail ‘Viteazul’), who not only restored Wallachia’s autonomy, but briefly united all three Romanian principalities for the first time in their history. He is thus seen as one of the major national heroes of Romania and a symbol of unity. He is described as a son of Patrascu the Good, but some claimed he only assumed that kinship to hide his more plebeian origins. Michael was first a regional governor in Ottoman service, then invested as Voivode of Wallachia by the Sultan, Murad III, in 1593. In 1595, he renounced this loyalty, declared Wallachian independence, and defeated a much larger Ottoman army at Călugăreni, near the Danube, allied with Emperor Rudolf II of Austria (as King of Hungary) and Sigismund Báthory, the Prince of Transylvania. He also defeated the Turks at an important crossing of the river, near Giurgiu. Peace was brokered with the Ottomans in June 1599, and Michael (encouraged by Rudolf) turned on and defeated Sigismund’s successor, András Báthory in October. Rudolf named him governor, not prince, of Transylvania, but he was de facto its ruler, following a triumphal entry into its capital of Alba Julia. In the spring of 1600, Michael travelled east to Moldavia and deposed his rival from the Movilă family, and named himself prince there as well.

Michael the Brave

This unity did not last long, and by the end of 1600, the Transylvanian nobles, unnerved by Michael’s ambitions, threw him out. He was then defeated in Moldavia by troops sent by the king of Poland, and was even chased out of most of Wallachia. Prince Michael went to Prague to the court of Rudolf II to plead for Imperial support; eventually given Habsburg funds and supplies, he re-took Wallachia, then Moldavia, but when he tried to retake Transylvania in 1601, Rudolf thought it was too far and sent orders for the Vlach prince to be murdered. Nice.

Though it was short, under Michael the Brave’s reign, boyar power in Wallachia increased and serf freedoms were curtailed—as a result voivoides in the 17th century had much less autonomy, and were made and unmade by Ottoman sultans from multiple boyar families, never allowing any one to gain too much power or stability. Yet Michael’s memory remains solid in Romania, as responsible for strengthening the authority of the Romanian Orthodox Church in all three principalities, and awakening (it is claimed) some form of early Romanian nationalism. Centuries later, a new royal order of chivalry was created by King Ferdinand of Romania during World War I: the Order of Michael the Brave.

crosses of the Order of Michael the Brave / Mihai Viteazul

Michael’s immediate successor was Radu IX Mihnea, who ruled on and off in both Wallachia and Moldavia—at one point trying to control both by installing himself in the Moldavian capital of Iaşi (Jassy), and his son Alexandru in Bucharest. This Radu was a reformer, of government and of foreign policy, trying to align with the leading mercantile power in the east, Venice. His son Alexandru was nicknamed ‘Coconul’ (‘the Cocoon’) because he began his reign at such a young age. He ruled at times both Wallachia and Moldavia in the 1620s, sometimes paying large sums to obtain his appointment, but never proving to be that effective as a ruler. He was removed from power in 1630 and died in Istanbul in 1632. He was the last of the direct descendants of Vlad Țepeș, the last of the House of the Dragon.

Alexandru Coconul–last of the dragons

There were others who claimed affiliation with the Basarab family in the 17th century. Many of these were in fact from the Craioveşti family (or the related Brâncovenești family), as above, including Radu Şerban, one of the better rulers of the period (1602-11), preserving Wallachian independence and reforming the government. Matei Basarab, with one of the longest reigns (1632-54), adopted this dynastic name to associate himself more securely with Wallachian identity, in competition with the increasing number of outsiders, especially Greeks, being appointed by the Ottomans as voivodes. He was an enlightened ruler, introducing the printing press, codifying the laws and founding schools. He also allied with the Prince of Transylvania, George II Rákóczi, with an aim to create an independent state, but this idea was crushed in the next reign (Constantin II, son of Radu Şerban) by the troops of Sultan Mehmet IV in 1658. The Sultan therefore appointed Mihnea III Radu, who claimed to be a son of Radu IX, but many said he was a Greek money lender from Constantinople and had agreed to pay the Sultan a rather large sum for the privilege of serving as voivode—but only for a year.

Matei and his wife Alina, as patrons of the Arnota Monastery
the Arnota Monastery in the hills of northwest Wallachia (photo Țetcu Mircea Rareș)

After this point, appointments to the post of voivode were much more clearly servants of the Ottoman court, often noblemen from Greek families known as Phanariots. These families, notably Cantacuzenos and Mavrocordatos, will be the topic of a future blog post on their own. Wallachian autonomy continued to decline, and after 1716, the Ottomans no longer even pretended the post of voivode was an elective position, depriving the local boyars of even the pretence of self-rule. The idea of a united state of the two Romanian principalities of Wallachia and Moldavia was revived in the 1820s, in the wake of the Greek War of Independence, and although they were formally tied together in 1859, Romania remained nominally a vassal state of the Ottoman Empire until formally proclaiming its sovereignty in 1877 (with Transylvania remaining a part of Hungary until after the First World War). Twenty years later Bram Stoker would popularise the name Dracula and its association with Transylvania and the Carpathian Mountains, but it was not until the cinematic versions of the story were produced that people began to associate the Prince of Darkness with Vlad III, voivode of Wallachia.

(images Wikimedia Commons)

Basarab Dynasty, simplified

Lost Princes of France: The Courtenays, from Latin Emperors to Earls of Devon

This is the story of a family that rose to great heights as princes and emperors in the eastern Mediterranean, then slowly declined over several centuries in rural France, before attempting to restore their former position in the line of succession to the French throne in the 17th century. An offshoot branch had established itself in England in the Middle Ages and by the 16th century were potential claimants to the throne there too. In an alternative reality, it is not impossible that, had the wheel of fate turned a bit differently, there could have been two royal Courtenay dynasties, facing each other across the Channel.

Arms of the House of Courtenay in France and England

The English succession potential of the Courtenays was fairly close, as nieces and nephews of the last of the Yorkist kings. Had Edward, Earl of Devon not died suddenly in 1556, some consider he might have married Elizabeth I and united the rival Plantagenet and Tudor claims in a royal Courtenay dynasty. The French succession potential for the Courtenays was much more remote: the entire Bourbon Dynasty would have needed to suddenly disappear to establish the reign of royal Courtenays in the mid-seventeenth century. More importantly, Louis de Courtenay-Chevillon (who assumed the title ‘Prince of Courtenay’) had to overcome five centuries of his family’s relative obscurity and poverty in order to convince the French elites to accept his candidacy for the throne should such a dynastic cataclysm occur. This he attempted to do, commissioning a massive and elaborately detailed ‘genealogical history’, which he presented to Louis XIV in 1661. In it, the author makes the case that the Courtenays should enjoy the same privileges as any prince of the blood, and that, should the main line fail, and those of the Bourbon cadet branches as well, the Courtenays must be recognised as next in line for the throne. This wasn’t as outrageous as it sounds: in 1663, besides the King and his brother Philippe, and the two-year-old Dauphin, the only males of the house of Bourbon were the Prince of Condé and his brother the Prince of Conti, Condé’s son Enghien, and Conti’s infant son. That’s only five adult males—it still may seem like a lot, but considering how many Bourbons were wiped out by smallpox in 1711-12, it’s not outside the realms of possibility.

frontispiece of the grand genealogical history of 1661

The two Courtenay families were actually not the same family by strict male-line succession—both probably inheriting the name from a female heiress—though they had the same origins and bore variations of the same coat-of arms for many centuries. It’s not even really certain how exactly they connect, and there are several legends surrounding the connection in the mid-12th century, when the original noble House of Courtenay died out. From this point, one member established a branch in England and rose to be the powerful earls of Devon, one of the oldest continually held earldoms in the United Kingdom (and surely one of those families most deserving of a dukedom that never got one—see Stanley); while another member headed east and established the Imperial House of Courtenay in Constantinople (see below).

The original Courtenays were servants of the Capetian monarchy in the central provinces of France: regions known as the Gâtinais and the Puisaye, neither very well known provincial names today, but rich agricultural lands and key territories in the struggle between the royal house in the Île de France and their chief vassals and rivals the dukes of Burgundy. Gâtanais and Puisaye lie in the zone between these two regions, and between the major waterways the Loire and the Seine. At the end of the 10th century, a lord known as Atto, Athon or Hutton was given several castles in this area to re-fortify and defend in the name of the king, notably the castle of Courtenay, watching over the valley of the Cléry river which feeds into the Seine, and guarding an important road between the key agricultural centres of the Loire Valley and the markets of Champagne.

The Clery river at Courtenay in the Gatinais (photo by Basicdesign)

Lord Atto’s son Josselin consolidated his family’s power in the region through marriage to the daughter of the local count of Gâtinais, and their son, Miles (or Milon), rooted the family firmly in these lands by founding a Cistercian abbey nearby at Fontaine-Jean (in about 1124), bringing in twelve monks from the parent abbey of Cîteaux, in which the family mausoleum would be established for many generations. Nothing remains today of the castle of Courtenay, but the 12th-century church of St-Pierre and St-Paul remains in Fontainejean. Once the Courtenay family became connected to the royal house, the abbey was raised to the status of a ‘royal abbey’, and it grew: by 1200 there were about 200 monks and 400 students. Its buildings were mostly destroyed by ravaging English troops in 1359, and again in 1422. Rebuilt, its abbot in the 1560s converted to Calvinism and participated in a massacre of his brother monks. Yet the buildings remained and were again restored; the Courtenays were still burying their dead here in the 1630s—in fact, a particularly large monument was erected here in 1637 as part of the process of gaining recognition as princes of the blood. The very last member of the French Courtenays deposited her heart here in 1768, but the chapel did not survive the Revolution: the abbey lands were sold and the buildings, and its tombs, destroyed.

an early 19th-century print of the ruined abbey of Fontaine-Jean

The two younger brothers of Miles, Lord of Courtenay, Josselin and Geoffroy, headed east to stake their claim to glory in the First Crusade. Josselin was a successful warrior companion of Baldwin I, King of Jerusalem, who gave him the lordship of Tiberias, on the Sea of Galilee, from which he took the grand title ‘Prince of Galilee and Tiberias’ in 1113. A few years later, Baldwin II assigned him the lesser title but more significant territory of the County of Edessa in the northern parts of Syria (today Urfa in Turkey). Josselin ruled here until he died in 1131 and his son Josselin II took over. Just under fifteen years later, he lost Edessa, and was taken to a prison by the Emir of Aleppo where he died.

Meanwhile, back in France, Miles had three sons—maybe: Guillaume, Josselin and Renaud. The eldest died on the Second Crusade, about the same time as his cousin the Count of Edessa. Josselin may be imaginary, and is given in some English sources as the founder of the house of Courtenay in England and Lord of Sutton (in Berkshire, near Abingdon, today called Sutton Courtenay; see below). Some French sources suggest they did have lands there this early, as one of Atto’s brothers (or perhaps sons) had accompanied William of Normandy in the conquest of 1066. Other sources say they did not come over in the Conquest, but later, in the suite of Eleanor of Aquitaine following her marriage to Henry II in 1152. It is confusing.

Certainly by about the 1170s, a Sir Reginald (or Renaud II) de Courtenay was established at Sutton. If he was a son of Josselin, all subsequent Courtenays in England were direct male descendants of Lord Atto; but he may have been a nephew via a sister of the last Courtenays in France and took their name to establish himself across the Channel. He certainly did so, but not in Berkshire: he married the heiress of Okehampton, in Devon, and established the family’s position in the southwest of England which persist still today. We will return to them in the second half of this piece.

Whatever the case in England, by the 1170s, there were no more male Courtenays in France, and Renaud I’s daughter, Elisabeth, took the family’s name and French estates to her husband (since about 1150), Pierre de France, 6th son of King Louis VI (‘the Fat’). Louis VI (reigned 1108-1137) was one of the first to re-assert the power of the French Crown—pretty weak since the days of Charlemagne—and wanted to centralise, not continue to subdivide the kingdom for his heirs as was traditional. But he had a lot of sons, and did need to provide for all of them. The eldest two sons were lined up as the heir and spare, the third son became archbishop of Reims, and a fourth son died young, leaving Robert and Pierre (and one further son who came along a bit later). Neither Robert nor Pierre were given large parts of the patrimony and were expected to marry heiresses. Robert was given the small county of Dreux, southwest of Paris, and married an heiress of a larger neighbouring county, Perche. Pierre was given nothing, but when he was on Crusade in 1147 with his brothers Louis VII and Robert of Dreux, he met Renaud de Courtenay, and soon married his daughter, heiress of large estates in the Gâtinais. He took on her name—as was customary at the time, even for sons of kings—and her arms, three red balls, or bezons, on gold. Pierre went on Crusade again in the 1170s, and died in Palestine.

Pierre I, from a Capetian family tree

Pierre and Elisabeth restarted a dynasty in great style: they had five sons, and many daughters who married the cream of the French nobility. One of these, Alix, married the Count of Angoulême, and their daughter would become Queen of England (Isabella of Angoulême, wife of King John). Of the sons, the eldest, Pierre II, made a spectacular marriage to the heiress of the counties of Nevers and Auxerre (conveniently adjoining Courtenay lands), and then another, to Yolande of Flanders, which lead to much grander things, as we shall see. Robert was given the family lordship of Champignelles and acquired the important court office of Grand Butler of France, which kept him close to his cousin the King, whom he accompanied in his abortive invasion of England (1217), then in the conquest of Languedoc and other territories in the far south of France (1226). He married an heiress of lands in Berry (again, not far from Courtenay lands), but not such a major one, and founded the secondary line of Courtenay-Champignelles.

Pierre II de Courtenay earned his spurs on the battlefield, first fighting against the Albigensian heretics in France in 1210, then at the major European confrontation involving France, England, Germany and the lords of the Low Countries, the Battle of Bouvines, 1214—at which Philip II of France crushed all of these allied opponents. In 1216, Henry of Flanders, Latin Emperor of the East, died, and the remaining Crusader elites in Constantinople looked to Henry’s brother-in-law, Pierre de Courtenay. He was duly elected as emperor, and travelled east with his wife and children in 1217, stopping in Rome to be crowned by the Pope on the way. But he never made it to Constantinople—pausing to try to help the Venetians take the city of Durazzo (today’s Durrës in Albania), he was captured by the Despot of Epirus and died in his prison in 1219. His wife, Empress Yolande, had arrived in Constantinople in 1217 and ably set up the family’s rule there, until she too died in 1219, leaving their sons as successors. The eldest declined to take up the imperial throne (choosing to focus on claiming his mother’s lands in the Low Countries instead), so the second son, Robert, became Emperor of the East.

Pierre II, Latin Emperor of the East

I should step back a moment and explain what this title meant. The Fourth Crusade was launched to try to help those Christian lords and their troops remaining in Palestine retake the city of Jerusalem. Financial troubles and a willingness to get involved in internal Byzantine dynastic power struggles led them to Constantinople instead, which led to the deposition of emperors Alexios IV and Alexios V in quick succession in Spring 1204, and the takeover of the city and its empire by the Crusaders themselves. This was a major blow to Christian unity—east and west had already been at each other’s throats for two centuries—and it never recovered. The new rulers called their state the ‘Empire of the Romans’, while the Greeks called it the ‘Frankokratia’. The Latins (or ‘Franks’) ruled most of modern Greece and northwest Anatolia.

The Latin Empire of the East

Baldwin, Count of Flanders, was chosen to be emperor in 1204, but he died just a year later, defeated in battle by the Bulgarians. His brother Henry ruled for a decade, continually battling the Bulgarians and the rival state the Greeks set up in Anatolia based in the city of Nicaea. The throne then passed as we’ve seen to Henry’s brother-in-law, Pierre de Courtenay, and a regency by his sister, Yolande. Their son Robert was in France in 1219, and didn’t arrive in Constantinople until 1221, when he was crowned in Hagia Sophia. He was immediately engulfed in war on two fronts, versus Nicaea in the east and Epirus in the west; and he died in 1228. His younger brother, now Emperor Baldwin II, was a minor until 1237, so the Empire was ruled by regents. With all of its neighbours now allied against him and seizing ever more bits of his territory, Baldwin (or Baudouin) was forced to travel extensively in western Europe, begging for financial or military support. At the court of his cousin Louis IX of France, he sold him one of the greatest of Byzantine treasures, the Crown of Thorns, but obtained only weak promises for support. In desperation, the Emperor made an alliance with the Turks in Anatolia (enemies of the Greeks), and raised funds by selling the lead on the roof of the Great Palace in Constantinople. By 1247, his rule extended really only to the city itself, and by 1261 the Latin Empire was forced to yield when a small force of Greek soldiers easily retook Constantinople and installed Michael Palaiologos, ruler of Nicaea, as the new Emperor of the (once again Byzantine) East. The exiled Baldwin de Courtenay continued to visit courts of various Mediterranean kings seeking new alliances (even ransoming his son Philip to some Venetian merchants to guarantee a new loan). He very nearly convinced Charles of Anjou, king of Sicily and Naples to launch a new Crusade, but he died, in 1273, in Naples, with this plan unfulfilled.

a gold coin for Emperor Baldwin II

Thus the great empire of the Courtenays in the East died with a whimper. Baldwin’s son, Philip, continued to call himself emperor, married the daughter of the king of Naples, and even organised a new crusading alliance in 1281, but he too died before it could launch, in 1285. His daughter, the titular ‘Empress Catherine’, was raised at the court of Naples, and was sought in marriage by various princes, including a son of the Byzantine emperor Andronikos. In 1300, she married Charles de France, Count of Valois, brother of King Philip IV, and donated the lands of the lordship of Courtenay to her new husband. Their eldest daughter, ‘Empress Catherine II’ took her claims to the Empire of the East to her husband, Philippe, Prince of Tarento, son of the King of Naples. Their descendants continued to claim the imperial title until about 1430, when the very last of the Crusader principalities in Greece, Achaea, finally succumbed to Byzantine rule (and then soon after, Ottoman). Meanwhile, the lordship of Courtenay passed into the royal domain when the Count of Valois’s son became King Philip VI. It was given to various and sundry princes in the 14th and 15th centuries, until it was erected by Charles IX as a county for the Boulainvilliers family in 1563, and then on and on passing to other noble families Rambures, La Roche-Fontenilles), for the rest of the old regime.

Empress Catherine II

With the death of Philip of Courtenay, titular emperor, in 1285, the senior male representative of the family became Robert de Courtenay-Champignelles, a cleric (and future archbishop), and Pierre, Lord of Champignelles. This estate was a bit to the south of Courtenay, towards the Loire. These lands were fertile, so the family prospered, though as mere ‘lords’, not counts or even viscounts, as you might expect cousins of the king to be. Indeed the first generation of the Champignelles branch, Robert and Pierre’s uncles, was quite prominent. Several accompanied kings on trips to the Holy Land or to North Africa. Raoul accompanied Charles of Anjou in his conquest of Naples, 1269, and was given the County of Chietti in Abruzzo. The fourth and fifth sons, Robert and Jean, became bishop of Orléans and archbishop of Reims, respectively. Both accompanied Saint-Louis on his expedition to North Africa in 1270, where Archbishop Jean died. finally, it was the sixth son, Guillaume, who married and continued the lineage. Robert and Pierre came from an impressive first marriage to the daughter of the Count of Burgundy; and Robert leveraged this association to succeed to his uncle’s former post as archbishop of Reims in 1299—he became one of the leading powers in the reigns of several Valois kings of the early 14th century.

Their half-brother Jean took over in Chempignelles, married and carried on the lineage, but the subsequent generations struggled to keep up a princely lifestyle or reputation. Three of his sons were set up as canons in Reims Cathedral, ready to succeed their uncle and great-uncle, and although the youngest, Etienne, was elected in 1352, he died before he could take up the post. The eldest two sons served the monarchy as regular noblemen, not magnates ‘of royal extraction’ (as one legal document defined them). The elder was Lord of Champignelles and acquired the neighbouring lordship of Bléneau in marriage, while the younger was given the lordship of La Ferté-Loupière (also nearby) in a family partition. Two branches then ran parallel for the next century, with a third emerging at Bléneau.

The lands of the lordship of Champignelles were devastated by the English armies that frequently passed through this area in the Hundred Years War. They served their by now distant royal cousins in the wars of the 14th and 15th centuries—occasionally being recognised formally in feudal documents as ‘cousin’ by the French king. In the 1450s, Jean IV de Courtenay-Champignelles dissipated most of his fortune in equipping himself to fight in the wars in Italy, and sold most of his properties (earning the name ‘Jean Sans Terre’) and died with no legitimate direct heirs. Part of the lordship was bought back by the next branch of the family, but a significant portion passed to other families and was raised to a marquisate in the late 17th century for Charles-Louis de Rogres de Lusignan. The castle was destroyed during the French Revolution, but today there remains the fortified manor house of the ‘Old Park’ (Parc Vieil), which was built in the 16th and 17th centuries. It is private.

The Parc Vieil at Champignelles

The cadet branches of La Ferté-Loupière and Bléneau were both based in the district called La Puisaye, to the southeast of the Gâtinais. Pierre de Courtenay built a new château at La Ferté in the late 15th century (leaving the remains of the medieval fortress at the top of the nearby hill). In the middle of the next century, this castle passed into the hands of another local family.

the remains of the castle at La Ferté-Loupière (photo François Goglins)

Another cadet line, based at Bontin, close to La Ferté, held yet another medieval Courtenay castle. In the Wars of Religion there were interesting divisions: François de Courtenay de Bontin was a Protestant, whereas his cousin Louis de Courtenay de la Ferté-Loupière was a Catholic and a follower of the Duc de Guise. As a Protestant stronghold, the castle of Bontin briefly made a mark in national history as the site of the marriage of Henry of Navarre’s top advisor (and future premier minister), Maximilien de Béthune, Marquis de Rosny (the future Duc de Sully), in 1583, and it was his residence in the years leading up to the accession of his patron Navarre’s accession to the throne as King Henry IV. The castle seen at Bontin today, however, was built by another family in the late 17th century.

the castle of Bontin (photo Chateau de Bontin)

The castle at Bléneau was a bit more significant, guarding a key crossing point on the river Loing, useful to both French and English troops in the Hundred Years War, notably Joan of Arc in 1428. Several centuries later, it was again a key crossing point, and the site of an important battle at the end of the civil war known as the Fronde where the rebel prince, Condé, successfully evaded the royal army, in 1652. Today a moated manor house remains on the edge of the village.

the castle at Bleneau

The branch of Courtenay-Bléneau tried to re-attach itself to the French court in the early 16th century. François, seigneur de Bléneau, served with King Francis I at the Battle of Marignano in 1515, married the daughter of one of the King’s favourites in 1527, and was named to a top household position of the new queen, Eleanor of Austria in 1530, then governor of the children of King Henri II. His younger brother, Edmé, held a senior post in the royal stables and a Gentleman of the Chamber. Yet neither was raised to a higher rank like count. François’ son from a second marriage, Gaspard, as an old man decided to press harder for his family’s position within the French royal family, partly inspired by his family’s poverty—they were too poor to appear at court or hold offices there, and desired the significant pensions the new Bourbon king was handing out to those who qualified as ‘princes of the blood’. In 1603, he and his sons commissioned a historian to publish a grand genealogical history, and a few years later (1608) they sent a formal legal request to King Henry IV. He and his cousins from the Chevillon branch stopped using qualification ‘noble seigneur’ and instead used ‘illustre prince du sang royal’ on official documents. They now quartered the Courtenay arms (the three red bezons) with arms of France (differenced with an indented red border) and topped with a princely crown. But Gaspard died in 1609 without having any decision from the King; his son Edmé had a more pressing need: he had killed another nobleman in a duel and fled France. He claimed he could only be tried as a prince of the blood, and sent this formal demand to Parlement of Paris where the King’s Attorney-General refused to accept the case. The King himself was assassinated the following year. Edmé joined up with another prince of the blood, the Prince of Condé, who was then in rebellion, and when this prince rebelled against the new Regent (the Queen-Mother, Marie de Medici) in 1616, Courtenay joined him—but was ‘forgotten’ in the list of demands Condé presented when reconciling with the Regent. Edmé went to England and was well received by the court of James I. He continued to send requests for recognition to the Chancellor of France in the 1620s, and hoped to win the favour of Cardinal Richelieu, a fairly close cousin (their grandmothers were sisters). But no luck. he died in 1640, and his son Gaspard II died with no legitimate heirs in 1655.

the new royal arms of the Courtenays of the 17th C

The lordship of Bléneau passed to the next cadet line, Chevillon, which took up the cause for princely recognition of the Courtenay family later in that decade. The castle and town of Chevillon was also just around the corner from La Ferté-Loupière—it is interesting to see how a noble family often stays roughly in the same spot established as a base by their ancestors, six-hundred years before. There was a very nice moated castle at Chevillon, built in the 14th century, which actually survives today, and is now used as a holiday rental.

the castle at Chevillon (photo ABC Salles)

Louis de Courtenay-Chevillon started to take the title ‘Prince of Courtenay’ in the later 1650s when he became head of the family. He legitimately acquired a higher title than Lord of Chevillon by marrying the heiress of the County of Cesy, located, conveniently, just a few miles to the northeast (today’s Cézy). This marriage also brought him within the orbit of the powerful Parisian parliamentary family of Harlay, which could only be a good thing. The man running the government for the young Louis XIV, Cardinal Mazarin, contemplated formalising Courtenay’s status as a prince of the blood, but only gave vague promises for future action. According to the famous memoir writer the Duke of Saint-Simon, Prince Louis offered to marry his son to Mazarin’s niece Hortense Mancini (knowing that this was a sure manner to gain the Cardinal’s favours); the memoirist also describes a scenario in which the younger Courtenay (Louis-Charles) was taken by Mazarin in his carriage to Saint-Jean de Luz on the border with Spain for the peace talks for the Pyrenees—but did not know how to behave as a grandee and spent his time with the pages.

In February 1662, a strange diplomatic event occurred that placed the Courtenay status claim on the table again. By the Treaty of the Pyrenees of 1659 between France and Spain, Louis XIV agreed to restore the Duke of Lorraine to his territories which had been occupied by France since the 1630s. But Louis really didn’t want to lose control of the strategic duchy of Lorraine so he proposed that the Duke and his entire family could be ‘merged’ into the House of France, and would be in line for the throne if all of the current princes of the blood—meaning the Bourbons—became extinct. The Duke of Lorraine was poised to accept this (and to enjoy retirement and a huge pension), and the Prince of Courtenay, seeing his family potentially pushed to the back of the line behind several Lorraine and Lorraine-Guise princes, sent a alarmed letter directly to the King reminding him that his family had recently been confirmed (they hadn’t) in their status as princes of the royal house, legally able to succeed the Bourbons, as direct male line descendants of King Louis VI. He also reminded him that his grandfather, Henri IV, had himself succeeded to the throne based on claims of patrilineal descent stretching across ten degrees, suggesting that the ‘ancient and natural laws of the kingdom’ were not concerned with how far the gap might become, as long as the patrilineage remained unbroken. The Treaty of Montmartre of February 1662 collapsed almost immediately, as other significant people protested, including the people of Lorraine themselves and the Chancellor of France who quipped that the king of France could only create princes of the blood in bed, with his wife the queen. The urgency for the Courtenay case was again dropped—though another large-scale book was published only one year later, at great expense, to once again demonstrate the proper place of the Courtenay family within the court hierarchy of France. The volume was dedicated to the King, who smiled and ignored it.

Prince Louis was succeeded in 1672 by his son Louis-Charles. He served Louis XIV in various military campaigns of the 1660s and early 1670s. He was quietly tolerated by the King, but still denied formal status of prince of the blood. His status is notable in his two marriages, both good, and useful in solidifying alliances in his family’s traditional base on the borders between Burgundy and the Orléannais, but not what one would expect of a prince of the blood. Nevertheless, in a formal document from 1675, we can see him style himself ‘très-haut & très-illustre Prince du Sang Royal de France, Monseigneur Louis de Courtenay’. Saint-Simon wrote about him that he even made a point of paying the capitation tax at the level of a prince du sang, despite it being financially crippling for him to do so. Having a keen interest in history, and in an aristocratic family’s longevity in particular—and notably being very much obsessed with his own—Saint-Simon considered that the Courtenay had suffered from having nothing for centuries but poverty and mésalliance, but should be considered honourable due to their descent from the crusader emperors in Constantinople in the 13th century. The one signal of hope the family got in the later decades of the 17th century was when Louis-Charles’ eldest son, Louis-Gaston, was killed at the siege of Mons in 1691, and the King paid a visit of condolence to Louis-Charles, something the Sun King only did for princes of the blood.

Louis-Charles de Courtenay, by Rigaud, 1699

In 1714, Louis XIV, seeing multiple generations of his family decimated by smallpox, formally placed his bastard sons in the line of succession. Immediately following the King’s death the following year, the Prince de Courtenay protested to the Regent—again contemporary writers like Saint-Simon felt it was a real crime that they were continually ignored. Charles-Roger succeeded as head of the family in 1723. In 1703 he had finally made a marriage more suited to a member of the top court aristocracy, to Marie-Claire de Bretagne d’Avaugour. Coincidentally—or was it?—her family also had long association with the royal house of France, as offshoots (illegitimate) from the dukes of Brittany, themselves formally part of the House of France as descendants of the Count of Dreux: Robert of France, the immediate older brother of none other than Pierre, first lord of Courtenay. Like his father and brother, Prince Charles-Roger also served in the French army, and rose to the rank of Captain of the Dragoons of the Queen’s Regiment. Saint-Simon thought he was crazy, and he killed himself in 1730. His uncle Roger, abbot of Écharlis in the ancient Courtenay heartland (in fact, the family had provided its abbots continually for over a century), was the last male of the family. When he died in 1733, his niece Hélène took the princely title by marriage to the Bauffremont family, a family from eastern France already building themselves into a ‘princely’ house through other inheritances (and later would get a French duchy). Princess Hélène made a final remonstrance in 1737 to the King. Still today, her descendants boast the title ‘Prince of Bauffremont-Courtenay’.

In 1735, just after the family in France became extinct in the male line, a large book was published in England, similar to that of 1661 (and using it as its source), which aimed to demonstrate to the author’s Courtenay pupil that his family was quite ancient and connected to royalty. So let’s turn back to England.

As seen at the very start of this piece, Sir Reginald (or Renaud) de Courtenay married the heiress of the feudal barony of Okehampton. His wife, Hawise, was a cousin of the Norman kings of England, and brought with her the important administrative and defensive offices of the county of Devon, such as sheriff of Exeter Castle and sometimes ‘vice-count’ of Devonshire. The barony of Okehampton was one of the eight large feudal divisions of Devon, located on the northern edge of Dartmoor. The castle was built in the 1070s-80s to guard a crossing of the river Okement. It was redeveloped by the family in the 13th century as a hunting lodge, with a large deer park. After its confiscation by the Crown in 1538, the castle was left to ruin and the park rented out to various local magnates. It was formally given over the state’s care in 1967, and today is maintained by English Heritage, one of the top attractions of central Devon.

the ruined Okehampton Castle in Devon (photo Kicior99)

Reginald’s son Robert also married well, in about 1215, to Mary de Redvers, daughter of the Earl of Devon. The Redvers family (aka Rivers or Reviers) had come over from Normandy at the Conquest, and became very rich through their support of King Henry I and then Henry’s daughter, the Empress Matilda, who raised them to the rank of Earl of Devon (circa 1141). The last earl, Mary’s great-nephew Baldwin, died in 1262, followed by his sister, Isabel, 8th Countess of Devon in her own right, in 1293. The Redvers estates were divided, but the bulk of the Devonshire patrimony came to Mary’s great-grandson, Sir Hugh de Courtenay of Okehampton. He already had a prominent position at court of Edward I, as maternal grandson of the King’s Justiciar, Hugh le Despencer (whose son would become more famous as the favourite of Edward II), and was soon created 1st Baron de Courtenay, 1299, and eventually, 9th (or some reckon 1st, a new creation) Earl of Devon.

Hugh’s descendants would quarter the arms of Courtenay (the three red balls on a golden field, with a blue three-point label to indicate they are the junior branch) with those of Redvers, a blue rampant lion on a golden field. From the Redvers family, they inherited their new principal seat, Tiverton Castle, which dominated the eastern part of the county, on the River Exe, as well as Plympton Castle, the caput of one of the other feudal baronies of Devon, this one in the far southwest of the county, near Plymouth. The Courtenays now dominated the east, west and north of Devon.

Plympton Castle (photo Tony Atkin)

Tiverton had been built as a Norman motte by the Redvers in about 1106. It was turned into a more sophisticated defensive fortification, overlooking the River Exe (just north of the city of Exeter), in the 14th century. It became the principal seat of the Courtenays from the 1290s, who also built the church of St Peter’s which became their main place of burial. Towards the end of the 15th century, it was the chief residence of Princess Catherine, the daughter of Edward IV and sister of Henry VII’s queen, Elizabeth of York. After her son’s attainder in 1538 (see below), the Courtenay properties were confiscated: Tiverton was given to various Tudor lords, then finally restored by Queen Mary to the 11th Earl. When he died in 1556, his estates were divided between his female cousins. Tiverton became the seat of the Giffards then the Wests—who added a more modern mansion house on the site in the early 18th century—then the Carews in the 18th and 19th centuries, and finally the Campbells since the 1960s. It remains in private hands and is open to tourists only on select days in the summer. Most of the defensive structures were dismantled in the English Civil War in the mid-17th century, but some of the medieval walls and towers remain.

Tiverton Castle, the medieval great tower and some of the newer buildings (photo Humphrey Bolton)

About 20 miles to the southeast was another main property of the Courtenays, Colcombe Castle, acquired by marriage to the Bassett heiress back in the 13th century, with the manor and estate of Colyford, on the coast near the border with Dorset. The 1st Earl of Devon built a manor house here, and it remained a secondary residence until the 10th Earl turned it into a ‘magnificent’ Tudor residence following his rise in status as 1st Marquess of Exeter in 1525. Colcombe too passed to various female relatives in 1556 and was rebuilt by the Pole family, then completely destroyed in the Civil War. Little remains today but some farm buildings.

a watercolor of the ruins of Colcombe

The rise and fall of this senior line of the Courtenays in England is one of the great stories of the Wars of the Roses and the Tudor era, so I will just summarise it here. Thomas, 5th Earl of Devon, married into the Beaufort family and was therefore allied by blood to the House of Lancaster (though not always loyal to them), and joined the Queen, Margaret of Anjou, at the first Battle of Saint-Albans, 1455, at the start of the Wars of the Roses. He died in 1458 and was succeeded by his son, Thomas, who fought with the Lancastrians at Towton in 1461, was captured and taken to York where he was beheaded. He was declared a traitor and his lands and titles attainted. His brother Henry was therefore only earl of Devon in name to the Lancastrians (and the earldom was briefly re-created by the Yorkists for Humphrey Stafford), and was also beheaded for treason, in 1469. The third brother, John, returned from exile with Queen Margaret and was restored as 8th Earl (or maybe 7th, or indeed the 15th if you count from the first Redvers creation which some genealogists do) in 1470, then killed a year later at the battle of Tewkesbury.

The last earl’s cousin, Edward Courtenay of Bocconoc (in Cornwall) continued the family support of the Lancastrian cause. He acted as a go-between for several royal exiles in the reign of Richard III, and served with Henry Tudor at Bosworth, 1485, for which he was restored, or perhaps created anew, to the earldom of Devon. He remained in royal favour in the new regime, and in 1495 secured for his son and heir the great prize of the hand of Princess Catherine of York, daughter of Edward IV and sister of the Queen,—part of Henry VII’s goals of reconciling the feuding factions of the Wars of the Roses. William of Tiverton was thus a member of the royal family and poised for great things. In 1504, however, he took part in the plot by Edmund de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk, Yorkist claimant to the throne; so he was once again attainted and unable to succeed his father in 1509. But that was the year of the accession of Henry VIII, who restored William Courtenay to favour, though it is not clear whether he was fully restored to the earldom (paperwork, you know) before he died suddenly in 1511. His young son Henry therefore is called the 2nd Earl of Devon, or 10th or 18th. As a descendant of Edward IV, he added the royal arms to his own—not always a wise thing to do in the world of Henry VIII, but for the time being, he was one of the bosom buddies of his athletic cousin the King and his pals, like Brandon and Compton.

Courtenay and Royal arms together, Exeter Cathedral (the Redvers lion should be blue not black)

Henry Courtenay became a Gentleman of the Bedchamber and member of the Privy Council in 1520, and a year later was granted some of the lands of the recently executed Duke of Buckingham, and his place in the Order of the Garter. He was High Steward of the Duchy of Cornwall from 1523, and appointed Constable of Windsor Castle in 1525. Later that year he was promoted: Marquess of Exeter, to remind people of his family’s near complete dominance of the far southwest of England. Over the next ten years he was one of Henry VIII’s right hand men, participating in legal procedures for the annulment of the marriage to Catherine of Aragon, and of the trial and execution of Anne Boleyn. He was granted even more lands due to the dissolution of the monasteries. By the late 1530s, however, the Marquess of Exeter clashed with Thomas Cromwell, and began to associate more with the Pole family (who shared his Plantagenet blood) and with more conservative Catholicism. He was arrested in 1538, put in the Tower of London, and a few months later executed for treason (though scholars have found very little evidence of an actual ‘Exeter Conspiracy’).

The Marquess of Exeter in a procession of the Knights of the Garter, at left, identifiable by his arms on his cloak

As we have seen, Henry Courtenay’s estates at Okehampton, Tiverton and Colcombe were confiscated, but restored to his only son, Edward, in 1553. Following his father’s execution, young Edward had been considered too much of a threat to the Tudors due to his Plantagenet blood, and was kept in the Tower for the next fifteen years (not even benefitting from the general amnesty granted on the accession of his second cousin, Edward VI in 1547). Finally, Queen Mary, close to Courtenay’s Catholic mother Gertrude, released him from prison, restored him to the earldom of Devon, and may have considered marrying him, to best unify the two main royal bloodlines of England. She married instead Philip of Spain in 1554, an unpopular choice, so Courtenay considered his options with her younger half-sister, Princess Elizabeth. Both he and Elizabeth were caught up in Wyatt’s Rebellion later that year and he was incarcerated once more in the Tower. He was released in 1555 and exiled—first residing in the Low Countries, then Venice, where he died rather suddenly in 1556. Some suspected poison, others reported a severe illness brought on by hunting with falcons in the rain. Having no siblings or even near cousins, the main Courtenay properties were dispersed amongst the descendants of the sisters of his great-grandfather.

Edward Courtenay, Earl of Devon

A cadet branch of the family remained however: that of Powderham Castle in Devon. The founder of this line, Sir Philip Courtenay of Powderham (d. 1406), was the fifth son of the 2nd Earl of Devon (of the Courtenay line; or 10th overall). He received this property near the mouth of the river Exe in Devon, from his mother, Margaret de Bohun, from whom he also received an earlier injection of royal blood (from her mother, Princess Elizabeth of England, daughter of Edward I). Due to this royal blood, his family were at this point as close to monarchical power as they would be until they again became so connected in the Tudor era (as above)—Philip’s older brother William was Archbishop of Canterbury under Richard II, while his son Richard of Powderham would become Bishop of Norwich and a chief advisor to Henry V. Philip himself was a skilled commander, especially on the sea, and he was appointed Admiral of the Western Coasts in 1372, then Lord Lieutenant of Ireland in 1383.

His sons and grandsons made Powderham Castle into another Courtenay (or sometimes spelled Courtney by this branch) stronghold in the southwest. It wasn’t really a castle in the usual sense, but a fortified manor house, on the flat lands where the river Exe broadened out before entering the sea. In fact, these flat, marshy lands, otherwise called a ‘polder’ (or ‘powder’) gave the settlement its name. The castle was built by Sir Philip in the 1390s, and maintained its basic form until significant rebuilding and landscaping in the 18th century. It was re-developed again in the 19th century, with a deliberate attempt to make it look more ‘castle-like’—with a very Victorian Gothic dining room which is a high point of a tourist’s visit still today. Since the mid-16th century it has been the main seat of the Courtenay family and the earls of Devon continue to reside here.

Powderham Castle (photo Raymond Cocks)
the heraldic fireplace at Powderham (photo Manfred Heyde)

In 1556, Sir William Courtenay of Powderham became head of the family, succeeding his by now quite distant cousin, the 1st Earl of Devon of the 1553 re-creation (aka the 11th Earl). But this claim was not put forward at the time, and none of the Courtenays of this line were recognised as earls until 1831, when an act of Parliament recognised Sir William retrospectively as de jure the 2nd Earl of the 1553 creation. At the time, however, his son William remained a commoner and served as an MP in the 1580s-90s—he was also involved in the plantation schemes for Ireland (to settle it with loyal Protestants), and was granted, in 1591, some of the lands of the defeated Irish lord, Gerald Fitzgerald, Earl of Desmond, including Desmond Castle in County Limerick. Over time, his descendants improved the estates here and built a new residence, ‘Newcastle’, sometimes called ‘Courtenay Castle’. By the late 18th century, the Irish lands—about 85,000 acres, the largest estates in Limerick—would bring the family £90,000 a year. There’s little left of their presence in Ireland, though: the new castle burned down in the War of Independence, circa 1920 (some of the ruins of the old castle were recently restored however), and the lands were sold off in the early 20th century. There remains a Devon Inn Hotel in West Limerick, and a Courtney’s Bar and Guesthouse across the border in County Kerry. Strange legacy of a French name from the Gâtinais!

The Courtenay legacy in County Limerick

Another William of Powderham was created baronet in 1644, as a supporter of King Charles I. He married an heiress of the Waller family of Devon, and took over their seat, the Jacobean manor Forde House, near Newton Abbot, since his own residence, Powderham, had been damaged during the Civil War. He threw a lavish reception here for William of Orange in 1688 shortly after he arrived at nearby Brixham, at the start of the Glorious Revolution. Once Powderham was restored in the 1750s, Forde House was let out to successive local families, and then sold outright in 1936. Today it serves as a conference and office space for the local council.

Forde House (photo Lobsterthermidor)

Another William, 3rd baronet, after serving as an MP for nearly 30 years was created Viscount Courtenay of Powderham (1762). It was with his grandson, the 3rd Viscount, that the story starts to get really interesting again. This William Courtenay, known as ‘Kitty’, became involved in a public scandal as a teenager in the 1780s due to his homosexual affair with an older man (the art collector and novelist William Beckford). He lived abroad after that, first in New York, then in Paris and a castle to the southeast of the city.

William, 3rd Viscount Courtenay (‘Kitty’), later Earl of Devon

By the late 1820s, aging and unmarried, he realised the viscounty would become extinct, and seems to have hatched a plan with his cousin and heir William—a former MP who had a fairly senior post in the Houses of Parliament and thus access to records and legal officials—to revive the family’s claims to the title Earl of Devon. Most legal scholars would have said that the earldom was long extinct, and indeed it had been re-granted to different people in the intervening three centuries: Charles Blount in 1603, and William Cavendish in 1618 (this earldom, and the subsequent dukedom, is usually referred to as Devonshire, not Devon, to avoid confusion). But William Courtenay convinced the House of Lords that the letters patent of 1553 created the earldom of Devon for all heirs male of the grantee, not just his direct descendants, and so therefore, any collaterals, however distant, could claim it. So, oddly, Kitty Courtenay, living in France for so many years, became entitled to call himself the 9th Earl of Devon in 1831, and when he died four years later, his cousin William became the 10th Earl and took up his seat in the House of Lords.

William, 10th Earl of Devon

William’s son William, the 11th Earl (known as the ‘Good Earl’ for his devotion to charities in Devon and working to bring the railroad to the Southwest), became a prominent politician in the Conservative governments of the 1860s. His younger brother had previously held a role at court, as chaplain to Queen Victoria in the 1840s, and later a canon at Windsor. After this generation, however, the family played little role in political or social life. Several younger brothers succeeded as earl (often already holding posts as clergy), and the 14th, 15th and 16th earls were all in a row—and died inconveniently close together, between 1927 and 1935, causing great financial hardship for the family in covering death duties in such quick succession. Charles, the 17th Earl of Devon, considered giving Powderham Castle to the National Trust, but backed out in 1957, opening up the house to tourism for the first time himself. His son Hugh, who was known as ‘Lord Courtenay’ for many decades before becoming the 18th Earl in 1998, did much to improve the estates: rearing cattle, improving the Exe waterfront and developing a shellfish business, and hosting large pop concerts in the restored gardens, including big-name performers like Elton John and Tom Jones. He was the last of the hereditary peers to make a ‘maiden speech’ in the House of Lords, before the rights of the hereditary peerage were modified in 1999. Charles Courtenay is the current Earl of Devon, having lived in Los Angeles where he practiced law and married an American actress, before he moved back to the UK on the death of his father in 2014.

Hugh Courtenay, 18th Earl of Devon (photo APEX)

As a postscript, we can return to the name Sutton Courtenay, and to another manor across the river, Nuneham Courtenay, to underscore the extent of how much this family left its mark on various landscapes, even though they only held these lands for a short time. Sutton had been a royal residence in the middle Thames valley since the 7th century, with a nearby royal endowed monastery. For centuries it was in Berkshire, but with the boundary changes of the 1970s, it became part of Oxfordshire. The Courtenays were granted the manor by Henry II in the 1170s, but soon after they succeeded as earls of Devon in the 1290s it was sold to the Brunce (or Brouns) family, and from them to different families. It is still a private residence; across the street is the old rectory of Abingdon Abbey, which since the 1980s has housed a prominent new age spiritual retreat.

Sutton Courtenay (photo Jonathan A Jones)

Across the Thames is the village of Nuneham Courtenay. As ‘Newenham’ it was a manor of the Redvers family which passed to the Courtenays with the earldom of Devon. In the late 14th century it was sold to the Segrave family, and then passed through a number of eminent families, including that of Geoffrey Chaucer and later the La Pole dukes of Suffolk and Sir Charles Brandon. Finally, in 1710, it was acquired by the Harcourt family—an interesting coincidence considering they are the other great Norman dynasty who established long-lived branches on both sides of the Channel (dukes in France, earls in England). Today this property is owned by Oxford University, the gardens as part of the Botanical Gardens and the house (18th-century Palladian) occupied by the Brahma Kumaris World Spiritual University. The Courtenay name’s reach to the East now goes beyond Constantinople to India.


(images Wikimedia Commons)

Courtenay genealogy, simplified:

The Anglo-Dutch Moment: the Bentinck dukes of Portland

The year 1688-1689 has been called by historians the ‘Anglo-Dutch Moment’, as the year when the ideas of English and Dutch limited monarchy came together in the person of William, Prince of Orange: King William III. Over three centuries later, one family, the Bentincks, still benefit from this relatively brief merging of national interests. Hans Willem Bentinck was one of the leading supporters of William’s accession to the English and Scottish thrones; created earl of Portland, his son was elevated further as duke of Portland in 1716. The dukedom became extinct in 1990, but not the earldom, which, by the terms of its creation passed to a collateral branch which had continued to reside in the Netherlands in the 18th and 19th centuries. The English ducal branch added the historic name ‘Cavendish’ in the early 19th century, and one of its daughters, Nina Cecilia Cavendish-Bentinck, became the much lesser known grandmother of Queen Elizabeth II.

Hans Willem Bentinck, 1st Earl of Portland

The Dutch noble family Bentinck is one of the oldest in the Low Countries, based mostly in the eastern part of the country, in the provinces of Gelderland and Overijssel. They are not a ‘van’ family since there’s no place or castle with that name; instead the surname derives as a sort of patronymic from a probable early founder named Bento. The first documented ancestor is Johan or Jan Bentinck, who owned land in a region known as the Veluwe, a gentle hilly region that formed the northern part of the duchy of Gelderland (or Guelders). Its territory was sandy and marshy and full of woods and heath, so was often a preferred hunting ground for Dutch nobles. Het Loo, for example, has been a hunting lodge for the princely (then royal) House of Orange for centuries.

By the 15th century, the Bentincks were members of the Ridderschap, or noble estate, of the Veluwe, and in about 1502, divided into two main branches. The senior line became lords of Aller, and became extinct at the end of the 18th century. The junior line, lords of ‘t Velde, got a step up as its founder, Hendrick, acted as Steward of the lands of the Duke of Guelders in the Veluwe. His residence, Huis ‘t Velde, was an old moated manor house rebuilt by the Bentincks, located east of Warnsveld in another region of Gelderland, Zutphen. It was acquired in the late 17th century by the Van Keppel family (interestingly, rivals of the Bentincks in England), and today serves as a conference centre for the regional police service.

Huis ‘t Velde in the 18th century

Hendrick Bentinck ‘t Velde’s sons and grandsons married heiresses and founded several different branches that co-existed well into the 19th century (though interestingly some of them remained Catholic after the Reformation while others firmly embraced Calvinism). Another Hendrick shifted his branch’s centre somewhat to the north, acquiring the lordships of Diepenheim and Schoonheten in the 1630s, both in the province of Overijssel. This province, which for centuries was not independent, but property of the bishops of Utrecht, takes its name from the fact that it is across the River IJssel. It is made up of several districts, including Twente in the east (where Diepenheim is located), and Salland in the west (where Schoonheten is). Hendrick also took on the important post of Drost of Salland, sort of equivalent in English to a local sheriff or seneschal.

Schoonheten Castle has been, and remains, the main seat of the Bentincks in the Netherlands. There has been a moated manor house here, near the town of Raalte, since the 1380s. Hendrick Bentinck rebuilt and enlarged it in the 1630s. It was enlarged again in the late 18th century with the addition of an English-style garden. In the late 19th century it took on its modern appearance, as its white plaster walls were re-covered (on three sides) with red brick. The local town retains a memory of its long British connections, with a pub named the ‘Duke of Portland’.

Schoonheten today

One of Hendrick’s grandsons, Eusebius, carried on the branch of Diepenheim and Schoonheten in the province of Overijssel, and we will return to them later on; a younger son, Hans Willem (1649-1709), became a favourite and protégé of William III, Prince of Orange and Stadtholder of the Dutch Republic. In the 1670s, to get closer to the seats of power in the province of Holland, he acquired the lordships of Rhoon and Pendrecht. Both are located on a sandy island in the delta of the River Mass, just south of the city of Rotterdam. Rhoon Castle was built on a sandbank in about 1200, then rebuilt in the 1420s. It gave Hans Willem and his successors a seat in the local estates and house of lords of Holland. But it is no longer Bentinck property, having been sold to a local shipping family (Van Hoboken) in 1830.

Rhoon Castle

Hans Willem, Lord of Rhoon’s connections to England started earlier than the ‘Anglo-Dutch Moment’ of 1688-89. He had been appointed a page and chamberlain in the household of Prince William as a young man, and crucially, nursed him back to health after an attack of smallpox in 1675. Their intense friendship deepened from then, though the jury is still out over whether this developed into a sexual relationship. In 1677, he was sent to England to formally ask for the hand of Princess Mary, daughter of the Duke of York (and his first cousin), and a year later Hans Willem himself married an English woman, Anne Villiers, a cousin of the King’s favourite, the Duke of Buckingham. Her mother, Lady Frances Howard, had been governess of the princesses Mary and Anne, and Anne Villiers and her sisters (and a brother) accompanied Princess Mary to The Hague after her wedding to the Prince of Orange. Bentinck would later deliver important messages from William to his uncle (and now father-in-law) King James in the 1680s, and was key in organising ships and funds for William to mount his ‘invasion’ of Britain in November 1688. Once William and Mary were formally proclaimed king and queen of England, Scotland and Ireland, Bentinck was appointed Groom of the Stole (one of the most intimate court offices, in charge of the King’s private spaces within the palace), First Gentleman of the Bedchamber, and was given the titles Earl of Portland, Viscount Woodstock and Baron Cirencester. He served with William in battle in Ireland and in the Low Countries, then acted as ambassador to France, 1698, representing the King’s interests in the all-important question of the Spanish Succession.

the Earl of Portland, by Rigaud

But by this point, Portland had been supplanted as the King’s favourite by another Dutchman, Arnold van Keppel, and he resigned his court offices in 1699, and he mostly retired to his country estate at Bulstrode Park, though he did continue to carry out duties in the next reign, that of Queen Anne. The family’s prominence at court was maintained after his death by his second wife (Jane Temple), who was appointed governess of the daughters of the Prince of Wales (the future King George II), and by his son, the 1st Duke of Portland (below). Bulstrude Park is located in Buckinghamshire, not far from Beaconsfield (and surprisingly close to the M40 motorway!). This was a new house built in the 1680s by the Lord Chancellor, George Jeffreys, and soon after sold to Lord Portland. It was significantly altered by the 2nd Duke of Portland in the 1740s, and by his wife who transformed its gardens into one of the most famous botanical gardens of its day, renowned for its rare exotic plants. The 4th Duke sold Bulstrode Park in 1811, to the Duke of Somerset. His successor completely rebuilt the house in the 1860s, and it then passed to the Ramsden family who later sold it in the 1950s. Today it is in private hands and not open to visitors.

Bulstrode Park (rebuilt in the 19th century)

Hans Willem Bentinck’s eldest surviving son, Henry, carried on the family legacy as a chief supporter of the Whig political agenda in Britain—that is a limited, Protestant monarchy—and was therefore created 1st Duke of Portland by the new Hanoverian regime in 1716. William III had created many new dukes for this reason, so it seemed natural; plus, Henry Bentinck was now even wealthier than his father, as he had married a significant heiress, Lady Elizabeth Noel, daughter of the Earl of Gainsborough and heiress of Titchfield Abbey and its estates in Hampshire. His subsidiary titles created in 1716 included Marquess of Titchfield, to be used for the heir. The new Duke was named a Gentleman of the Bedchamber in 1717, and Governor of Jamaica in 1722, where he died in 1726.

Henry, 1st Duke of Portland

Titchfield Abbey had been founded by Premonstratensian monks in the 1220s, and was a frequent resting point for royalty travelling between London and Winchester—as well as the site of a royal wedding in 1445, between Henry VI and Margaret of Anjou. When the monasteries were dissolved in the 1530s, one of Henry VIII’s henchmen, er, courtiers…, Thomas Wriothesley acquired the property and converted it into a residence. By the 17th century it was known as Place House. The Bentincks did not hold on to it very long and sold it in the 1740s. It was soon abandoned and partly demolished. Today it is in government ownership and cared for by English Heritage.

Place House, aka Titchfield Abbey

Part of the reason for selling the Titchfield estate was the acquisition in the 1730s of a much more extensive portfolio by the 2nd Duke of Portland. In 1734, the Duke married the richest heiress of the day, Lady Margaret Cavendish-Harley (or Cavendish-Holles-Harley), the daughter of Edward Harley, Earl of Oxford and Mortimer and Lady Henrietta Holles, herself a major heiress. This double windfall of two generations of heiresses brought two major new properties from the Cavendish family, in Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire: Bolsover Castle and Welbeck Abbey. The Cavendish family, founded on Tudor wealth in the 16th century (Welbeck was of course another dissolved abbey) had been divided in the early 17th century into the Devonshire line and the Newcastle line—both of these were dukedoms and will be explored in a separate post for the mighty Cavendish family. The Newcastle line ended in the male line in 1690, and its chief heiress, Margaret, married the politician John Holles, Earl of Clare, for whom the Newcastle title was revived in 1694. When he died in 1711, his estates went to his daughter Henrietta who married another politician, Edward Harley, 2nd Earl of Oxford and Mortimer (son of the more famous first minister of Queen Anne), though the name Holles and the title Newcastle went to his nephew, Thomas Pelham. It was thus a Cavendish-Holles-Harley heiress who became the 2nd Duchess of Portland.

Margaret Harley, 2nd Duchess of Portland

To entangle the estates and castles of this vast and complicated succession, let’s start at the end and work backwards. The Harleys were a Herefordshire gentry family. In 1601, they acquired the mostly ruined castle of Wigmore in that county, the former seat of the mighty medieval Mortimer lords who used this castle in their defence of the borders between England and Wales. The Harley’s main residence was the more modern Brampton Bryan Hall (also in Herefordshire). At the 2nd Earl of Oxford and Mortimer’s death, Brampton Bryan passed to a collateral branch of his family, but I think (and happy to be corrected) that the Wigmore estate came to the Bentincks. Today it is a ruin, looked after by English Heritage.

Wigmore Castle ruins

The Holles succession might have included the very grand Wimpole Hall in Cambridgeshire, purchased by John Holles in 1710, but it was sold by his son-in-law the 2nd Earl of Oxford in 1740 to pay off debts. His daughter Henrietta Holles did, however, inherit the manor of Marylebone, then on the outskirts of London, and today reflecting past ownership in the names of its streets: Harley Street, Oxford Street, Henrietta Street, Wimpole Street, Wigmore Street (and Wigmore Hall); as well as Cavendish Square, Great Portland Street and so on. The Bentinck family vault was established in the parish church of Marylebone, first in a new church built in the 1740s, at the northern end of Marylebone High Street (demolished in 1949), and then in a newer church built by celebrated architect Thomas Hardwick in about 1815.

Henrietta Holles, Countess of Oxford and Mortimer
the ‘new’ church in Marylebone

It was the Cavendish succession in the north of England that was the most significant, and caused the family to take on the double-barrelled surname Cavendish-Bentinck by the end of the century.

The Portland cross quartered with the Cavendish stags’ heads

Bolsover Castle is associated most with the 1st Duke of Newcastle, so will be looked at more closely in a different blog post. It was a medieval fortress built to overlook the Scarsdale and the eastern edges of the Derbyshire dales (what today we might call the valley of the M1). Edward VI gave the crumbling ruins to George Talbot, 6th Earl of Shrewsbury; his son, the 7th Earl, sold it in 1590 to his half-brother, Sir Charles Cavendish (son of the celebrated Bess of Hardwick). Cavendish set about rebuilding the castle, more as a pleasure palace than a defensive structure, but it was his son, William, who turned Bolsover into the real gem we see today. The Duke of Newcastle was incredibly interested in the equestrian arts, and it has been exciting to see English Heritage restoring and recreating his horse riding school at Bolsover in the past two decades. The Portland family took over the property in the 1730s, but by the late 19th century rarely lived there, and in 1945, the 7th Duke gave it to the nation. It is one of the jewels in the crown of English Heritage.

Bolsover Castle

Much further to the north, Bothal Castle was part of the Ogle succession that had fallen to the Cavendishes by marriage in the 1590s. The Castle, fortified even before the Norman conquest, is located near Morpeth in Northumberland (north of the city of Newcastle). It was the seat of the Ogle family for about two centuries (created barons in 1461), then passed via Cavendish to Cavendish-Bentinck, who restored it in the mid-19th century. It is still a residence of the Bentinck family, though not open to the public.

Bothal Castle

The Cavendish property that became the main seat of the dukes of Portland was Welbeck Abbey. Located only a few miles east of Bolsover, it is across the county line in Nottinghamshire, and is one of the four ducal residences that gave the name ‘the Dukeries’ to this area (Portland, Newcastle, Norfolk and Kingston). It is frustratingly closed to visitors. Like Titchfield Abbey it was also built by Premonstratensians, in about 1140—and by the 16th century it was the head of this Order of monks. Over the centuries it was heavily endowed by noble families and by King Edward I. In 1538, the monastery was dissolved and given by the Crown to Richard Walley of Screveton, and was later purchased (1599) by the 7th Earl of Shrewsbury and resold in 1607 to his half-brother Charles Cavendish. It became the chief residence of the dukes of Portland after the sale of Bulstrode in 1811, and then significantly altered by the 5th Duke, as we shall see below. Much of the oldest parts burned in 1900 and were rebuilt. After World War II Welbeck was leased to the Ministry of Defence who operated an army training college there. In 2005 it returned to use as a private residence by the heirs of the last duke of Portland, the Anglo-Italian William Parente, Prince of Castel Viscardo. Only the garden centre and a newly built art gallery is open to the public.

Welbeck Abbey from the air

The 2nd Duke and Duchess of Portland were thus astronomically wealthy (though as per normal with the English aristocracy, their land holdings had very little to do with the actual place Portland, in Dorset). The Duchess, Margaret Harley, was better known than her husband, as a prominent ‘bluestocking’ (the name for a circle of women intellectuals in this period) famous for her botanical gardens and her museum at Bulstrode, noted above. The modern Harley Gallery at Welbeck is named for her. Just before she died, in 1786, the Duchess acquired one of the most famous pieces of glass in the world, a 1st-century Roman vase now known as the ‘Portland Vase’, deposited in the British Museum for safe keeping by her son the 3rd Duke, and finally sold to the Museum by the 7th Duke in 1945.

The Portland Vase

William Henry Cavendish-Bentinck, 3rd Duke of Portland carried the family line forward, and became its most famous politician. He stayed in the family tradition a supporter of the Whigs in government, and was named Lord Lieutenant (or viceroy) of Ireland, briefly, during the ministry of Lord Rockingham in 1782. In the next year, he lent his name to a Whig coalition led by Charles James Fox and Lord North as titular Prime Minister (actually First Lord of the Treasury) for 8 months—though significantly, it was during this year (1783) that his government signed the Treaty of Paris recognising the independence of the United States of America. Following the French Revolution, the Whig Party fractured, and those who were not in favour of such rapid liberal advances shifted to support the more conservative William Pitt, led by the Duke of Portland (these became known as the ‘Portland Faction’). The Duke served in Pitt’s administration as Secretary of State, Home Department, from 1794, and oversaw the Act of Union with Ireland in 1800. He was Lord President of the Council, 1801-1805, then a few years later (1807) took up the mantle once more of Prime Minister of the United Kingdom, again as a figurehead leader of a coalition of Pittites (Canning, Castlereagh, Perceval, etc). He resigned in 1809 due to ill health and died soon after. Besides the streets and squares in London bearing his family names, he also gave his name to Portland Inlet and Bentinck Channel along the coast of British Columbia.

William Henry Cavendish-Bentinck, 3rd Duke of Portland, by Thomas Lawrence

In the next generation, the 4th Duke, another William Henry, continued to hold high political office, as Lord Privy Seal in the administration of his brother-in-law George Canning, 1827, then Lord President of the Council in the administration of Canning’s replacement Viscount Goderich, until the government fell in early 1828. He was Lord Lieutenant of Middlesex for nearly a half century, and married a Scottish heiress, Henrietta Scott (so added another name to his surname), and purchased Fullarton House in Ayrshire, 1805, as his Scottish residence, and invested in the nearby port of Troon.

It was the 4th Duke’s younger brother, Lord William Bentinck, who was the more fascinating figure, however. Almost all the males in the family were named William (in honour of their original patron in England), but usually went by their second name; in this case he used William, while his older brother the Duke was William Henry, and his younger brother, William Charles, used Charles (see below). Lord William was appointed at a young age as governor of Madras in India, 1803-07, but was pulled back to Europe at the height of the Napoleonic wars and given command as Lieutenant-General of British troops in Sicily and representative of British interests on that island—notably to keep it out of the hands of Napoleon’s sister and brother-in-law, the Murats, now occupying the throne of Naples just across the straits. Lord William took it upon himself to encourage the liberal aspirations of the people of Sicily, much to the annoyance of their Bourbon king and queen, Ferdinand and Maria Carolina. Against the wishes of his own British government, he helped a group of Sicilian nobles take control of the court of Palermo in1812, forcing the King to abdicate in favour of his son Francis, and even introduced a liberal constitution (which, amongst other things, abolished feudalism…finally). In 1814, his superiors, supporting a full Bourbon restoration, sent him away from Sicily, north towards Tuscany where he was tasked with pushing out another of Napoleon’s sisters (Elisa) from her rule there. Again, he exceeded his orders and encouraged the locals to consider adopting a more liberal form of government, ie, not restoring the Habsburg grand dukes, and even preaching Italian unification—something that definitely would annoy Britain’s allies, Sardinia and Austria. He drove the French out of Genoa and restored its ancient republic (again, instead of returning it to the king of Sardinia, as instructed). He was recalled to Britain but surprisingly went unpunished. A decade later, he was sent back to India, first as Governor of Bengal, 1828, then as the first Governor-General of India, 1834-35. In this short time, he managed to modernise the government administration of Bengal and abolish the monopoly of trade enjoyed the East India Company. He criminalised the practice of sati (a widow’s self-immolation on her husband’s funeral pyre) and female infanticide; passed stronger laws against organised crime; passed the English Education Act (replacing Persian as the language of high courts); and founded the Calcutta Medical College. He died in Paris only a few years later. Fascinating.

Lord William Bentinck
an old postcard from Calcutta

Of the sons of the 4th Duke, the eldest, the Marquess of Titchfield, was expected to have a brilliant career, smart and well placed. But he died of a brain abscess before he reached thirty. The younger sons, Lord George and Lord Henry both became fairly influential members of the newly founded Conservative Party in the 1840s. But it was the second son, Lord John, who succeeded as 5th Duke of Portland in 1854, who captures the imagination of the most eccentric of the great aristocratic eccentrics of this period. Unlike most of his family, he had little interest in politics, and it soon became apparent that he didn’t like people at all. He became a famous recluse, retreating to Welbeck Abbey where he spent years constructing the most elaborate tunnel system—thought to be about 15 miles in total—connecting various parts of the house and the estate. The tunnels connected the main house to the kitchen gardens, stables and a large riding house—equipped with gas lighting! There was also gas lighting in the tunnels themselves, as well as some skylights. There were heated trucks to deliver food through the tunnels. There was a subterranean library and a grand billiards room. But the Duke did not entertain. Staff and tenants knew never to make eye contact if they happened to pass him. He communicated via letter boxes all over the house, but really only occupied a small apartment, sparsely furnished, in one corner of one of the largest houses in Britain. It was said that when he went to London, his carriage was put directly on the train so he never had to see anyone, and he rarely left his residence, Harcourt House on Cavendish Square. He died in 1879, and officially left no heirs, though there were rumours of children, and one sensational lawsuit kept society enthralled in turn of the century London whereby a Mrs Druce claimed the late Duke had led a double life as an upholsterer. Eventually several witnesses were charged with perjury, Mrs Druce ended up in an asylum, and London moved on to the next great news story.

John, 5th Duke of Portland

An interesting webpage about the Welbeck tunnels:

https://www.derelictplaces.co.uk/threads/welbeck-tunnels-notts-september-2016.33961/

By this time, the succession had moved on to a different branch of the family, and we come closer to the story of Queen Elizabeth II’s grandmother. At nearly 80 years old., the 5th Duke had outlived his two closest male heirs, his cousins Charles and Arthur. Their father, Lord Charles Cavendish-Bentinck, had scandalised society first by marrying an illegitimate daughter of the famous courtesan Grace Elliott—whose high profile lovers included the Duke of Orléans and the Prince of Wales who may indeed have been the father of Lord Charles’s wife. Shortly after this first wife (called Georgiana Seymour) died, Lord Charles eloped with his friend Sir William Abdy’s wife; they divorced; and Charles and Anne (herself an illegitimate daughter of the Marquess of Wellesley, the Duke of Wellington’s brother) married. Their eldest son, Charles (whose name was William Charles, but like his father went by Charles, and in fact signed his name ‘WCC Bentinck’), not thinking he would succeed to a dukedom, entered the church and became vicar for several parishes in Bedfordshire in the 1840s. He had no sons, but from a second marriage left three daughters: the eldest of these was Nina Cecilia, who seems to have preferred Cecilia, but I’d love to know for certain. She certainly has a colourful background in her grandmother and great-grandmother; and, via the Prince of Wales (King George IV) maybe even a drop of royal blood!

Cecilia Cavendish-Bentinck, Countess of Strathmore and Kinghorne, by Laszlo in 1931

In 1881, before she turned twenty, Cecilia Cavendish-Bentinck married Lord Glamis (Claude Bowes-Lyon), heir to the Scottish earldom of Strathmore and Kinghorne. The Lyon family were Angus landowners from the 14th century, created Baron Glamis in 1445, and Earl of Kinghorne (later adding Strathmore) in 1606. In 1767, the 9th Earl married Mary Bowes, the heiress of a wealthy London businessman, and the family name became hyphenated. In 1904, Claude and Cecilia succeeded as 14th Earl and Countess of Strathmore and Kinghorne, and raised their large brood of children (10) at Glamis Castle in Angus, or at estates in County Durham (Gibside Hall) or Hertfordshire (the enormous country seat of St Paul’s Walden Bury, between Luton and Stevenage). The Countess was known as one of the grand hostesses of the era, and her daughters entered high society, where the youngest of them, Lady Elizabeth, caught the eye of the Duke of York, and married him, in 1923. The future Queen Elizabeth II was born at the Strathmore home in Mayfair in April 1926. The rest of this story is well known.

The Countess of Strathmore at the wedding of her daughter to the Duke of York, 1923
St Paul’s Walden Bury, Hertfordshire

What is less well known, is that one of the most famous society patrons of the arts and bohemians of the early 20th century, Lady Ottoline Morrell, was Cecilia’s first cousin. She was the daughter of Reverend Charles Bentinck’s younger brother, Lieutenant-General Arthur Cavendish-Bentinck. Once her half-brother William succeeded as 6th Duke of Portland in 1879, she was granted the rank of a duke’s daughter, so entitled to be called ‘Lady Ottoline’, while her husband (married in 1902) was simply Mr Philip Morrell. For the first three decades of the 20th century, she was a literary hostess, a patron, and a protector of pacifists and conscientious objectors during World War I (like Lytton Strachey), notably at her home, Garsington Manor, in Oxfordshire. Her many friends and lovers included Aldous Huxley, Siegfried Sassoon, Dora Carrington, DH Lawrence (who may have modelled his Lady Chatterley on her), Virginia Woolf, TS Eliot, and on and on.

Lady Ottoline Morrell, looking fabulous

William Cavendish-Bentinck, the 6th Duke of Portland, had a more traditional aristocratic history: Master of the Horse under Conservative governments in the 1880s-90s, a Privy Councillor, and long-standing Lord Lieutenant of Nottinghamshire (from 1898-1939). He carried the crown of his cousin Queen Elizabeth at her coronation in 1937. Earlier, his wife Winifred had been a canopy bearer to Queen Alexandra at the 1902 coronation (wearing the famous Portland Tiara, stolen in 2018), and her Mistress of the Robes from 1913 to 1925. The Duchess was also an early animal rights activist and vegetarian. She persuaded her husband to devote significant funds to improving the lives of miners on his Nottinghamshire estates.

Winifred, 6th Duchess of Portland, by Singer Sargent, 1902

The 6th Duke did do something non-traditional, though he was in keeping with the changing times (and indeed the changing laws): in 1943, just before he died, he broke the entail on the Portland estates, since he could see that his grand-daughters would otherwise inherit nothing if the lands and titles stayed together and passed as usual to the next male heir (a distant cousin). These lands were estimated (in 2008, when the last of these grand-daughters died) as 17,000 acres in Nottinghamshire (roughly 3% of the county) and 62,000 acres in Scotland. The Duke was buried in St Winifred’s Church, Holbeck, on the Welbeck Estate, which he had built in the early years of the 20th century. It became the resting place of all of the 20th-century dukes.

William, 6th Duke of Portland

His son, William, 7th Duke of Portland, had been an MP for many years (officially as Marquess of Titchfield, but known as ‘Chopper’), and succeeded his father as Lord Lieutenant of Nottinghamshire (until 1962), and was also Chancellor of Nottingham University. He married a grand-daughter of the 6th Duke of Richmond, Ivy Gordon-Lennox, and they had two daughters. The eldest, Lady Anne, never married and lived at Welbeck Abbey and managed its vast estates until her death in 2008. After that, the house and lands passed to her nephew, the Prince of Castel Viscardo (which is in Umbria).

The titles, but not the lands, went to a distant cousin, Ferdinand Cavendish-Bentinck, who became the 8th Duke at age 89 in 1977. He was a descendant of Lord Frederick, the fourth son of the 3rd Duke. Lord Frederick’s two grandsons both had interesting marriages: one, to one of the aristocratic Livingstons of New York (and left daughters who remained there), and another to an illegitimate daughter of the Earl St Maur (heir to the Duke of Somerset), Ruth St Maur, a suffragette and socialist, and one of the founders of the Women’s Library in 1909. Ferdinand spent a long career as a senior colonial official in East Africa, mostly in Kenya, from the 1920s to the 1950s. He and his wife remained in Nairobi, even after he became duke, as there were no lands to inherit in England. In 1980, he was succeeded by his brother Victor, who was also in his 80s. The 9th and last Duke of Portland (who used his third name, William, or ‘Bill Bentinck’) had also had a long career, first as a diplomat in the 1920-30s (rising to be Ambassador to Poland in 1945), then in business, mostly focusing on repairing links between Britain and German industry. His diplomatic career had been cut short (apparently on the verge of being named ambassador to Brazil) because of a divorce in 1948, which in those days was still too shameful for society to handle. His son predeceased him in the 1960s, and with no male heir when he died in 1990, the dukedom ceased to exist.

Victor, 9th and last Duke of Portland

But not the earldom. We need now to travel back to the Netherlands, and back to the 18th century. The younger son of Hans Willem Bentinck, 1st Earl of Portland, unsurprisingly also named William, was sent back to the Low Countries in 1719 to maintain the family estates and to occupy the family seat in the Estates of Holland as Baron van Rhoon. He also retained lands in England as lord of the manor of Terrington in Norfolk, not far from King’s Lynn. He would play an important role in Dutch politics later in the century as one of the leaders of the Orangist party who helped re-establish the position of Stadtholder in 1747, and was a delegate for the Netherlands at the peace talks at Aix-la-Chapelle, 1748, that ended the War of Austrian Succession. But he was pushed out of politics in the next reign due to his personal animosity with Princess Anne of Great Britain, now Dowager Princess of Orange and Regent for her son, Willem V.

William Bentinck van Rhoon
Bentinck House in The Hague

In 1732, William Bentinck van Rhoon had been created Count of the Holy Roman Empire by Emperor Charles VI, to raise his rank so that it would be equal to his future bride, Countess Charlotte Sophie of Aldenburg. The Countess was the heiress of an Imperial county formed in the late 17th century out of fragments of the ancient county of Oldenburg (of which ‘Aldenburg’ was an older variant spelling), which had passed into possession of the House of Denmark on the extinction of its legitimate male line. The illegitimate son of the last Count of Oldenburg was given two Frisian lordships, Kniphausen and Varel, both on the North Sea coast on an inlet in the mouth of Weser, on either side of the future port city of Wilhelmshaven (not founded until 1869). The two lordships were joined together as a county by the Emperor in 1653. Charlotte Sophie inherited them and ruled as a semi-independent princess in 1738, but as her marriage broke down due to adultery, and her private life became too scandalous for Dutch society, she was divorced from Bentinck in 1744, and ‘deposed’ by her former husband in 1748, who then ruled the county of Aldenburg in the name of his sons.

Charlotte Sophie as sovereign Countess of Aldenburg

The twin ‘free lordships’ of Kniphausen and Varel were ruled as an autonomous county within the Duchy of Oldenburg by the Bentincks for the rest of the 18th century. Varel had been one of the ancient seats of the independent chiefs of the Frisians in the Middle Ages and its castle was expanded into a more palatial residence once the county of Aldenburg was established. The same is true for the castle further to the north at Kniphausen. Both castles were ultimately destroyed by fires: Varel in 1751 and 1817, then gradually dismantled, and Kniphausen in 1708, never rebuilt. Today’s castle at Kniphausen is a re-purposed former stables and is in private hands.

the castle of Kniphausen today

The French Empire built by Napoleon eventually extended its reach to the North Sea, and incorporated the County of Aldenburg in 1810. All of the various Dutch baronial lines of the House of Bentinck were confirmed as ‘barons de l’Empire’ in 1813, and when this fell, they were confirmed as barons of the new Kingdom of the Netherlands. But at the Congress of Vienna, 1815, the Count of Aldenburg was denied a restoration of his sovereignty (however miniscule) and became a vassal of the Grand Duke of Oldenburg. He contested this, and in 1818 was allowed a limited degree of sovereignty in Kniphausen and Varel, mostly concerning internal administration and external trade. But after a succession dispute between two brothers, Willem Gustaf and Jan Carel (the former of whom had married a local farmer’s daughter), the two properties were sold to the Grand Duke in 1854, for 2 million thaler.

Welcome to Kniphausen, with arms of Bentinck (with a crescent moon indicating a junior branch) and Oldenburg/Aldenburg with Varel and Kniphausen (and a princely bonnet and mantle)

The branch born ‘unequally’ moved to the United States and faded away. The younger branch added to their aristocratic lustre first in the Netherlands by incorporating the succession of the Reede-Ginckel family, earls of Athlone (created in 1692 for another one of William III’s generals, Godert van Ginckel van Reede; extinct 1844) by inheritance in the 1840s; then by gaining the lands of the counts of Limpurg-Gaildorf by marriage in the 1860s. They were elevated to the rank of ‘illustrious highness’ within the German aristocracy. In the Netherlands, they were now lords of Middachten, with its elegant palace and gardens on a bend in the River IJssel in the province of Gelderland (near Arnhem), and also of Amelongen and Ginckel, a bit to the west in the province of Utrecht. The church at Ellecom near Middachten became the burial place for this branch of the family. In Swabia, they inherited the lordship of Gaildorf, once part of the ancient imperial County of Limpurg (northeast of Stuttgart)—here they possessed an Old Schloss, built in the late 15th century, and later constructed a New Schloss, sometimes called the Bentinck Palace, which served as a summer retreat for the family until it was confiscated in 1918 (and now serves as the town hall).

Castle Middachten in Gelderland
Gaildorf, Old Schloss
Gaildorf, New Schloss, or Bentinck Palace

This Dutch-German branch, using the title, Count of Aldenburg-Bentinck (recognised formally by the Queen of the Netherlands in 1924), became extinct in 1968, and the headship of this branch passed to a senior line who had renounced it in the 1870s and moved to England. In 1886, they were permitted, by royal licence, to bear the title Count Bentinck in the United Kingdom. Count Henry Noel served in the British army in World War II, then became a producer for the BBC. In 1968 he became head of this branch of the family, and in 1990, at age 71, he succeeded his *very* distant cousins as 11th Earl of Portland, and his son Tim became ‘Viscount Woodstock’. Timothy Bentinck had already established himself as an actor, notably on the radio as one of the lead characters on ‘The Archers’. After 1997 he was entitled to call himself 12th Earl of Portland, as well as Count Bentinck von Aldenburg and Count of Waldeck-Limpurg. He has two sons who presumably will continue the line.

Tim Bentinck (12th Earl of Portland)

There are other Bentinck lines in England: another younger son returned to England in the 18th century to manage the estates at Terrington in Norfolk. William Bentinck of Terrington became a Vice-Admiral in the British Navy and was governor of the Caribbean island of St Vincent, 1798-1802. Due to his European family connections, he later served as an informal diplomat between Britain, Denmark and Russia and died at the court of St Petersburg in 1813. His descendants were also recognised as counts in the United Kingdom in 1886, then died out in 1938. There is still a Bentinck Arms pub in North Lynn, that served dockworkers in King’s Lynn in the early 20th century, many of whom were Dutch.

William Bentinck, of Terrington, by Romney
Bentinck Arms, North Lynn

And there’s more: the senior line of Bentinck van Diepenheim and Schoonheten were also confirmed as barons of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in 1814, but they had already sold the castle of Diepenheim in 1813 (today the private estate of the De Vos van Steenwijk family—cousins and neighbours of the Bentincks since the 15th century). One of these, Berend, moved to England in the 1830s. Two of his grandsons rose to prominence, one as an Admiral of the British Navy (Sir Rudolf Bentinck), and the other as a colonial administrator in South Africa. Both were permitted to use the title Baron Bentinck in the United Kingdom by George V in 1911. This was later rescinded in 1932. Today Gary Ramsay Bentinck (b. 1964) is, strictly lineally speaking, head of both English and Dutch baronial lines. He lives in Aberdeenshire. Meanwhile there are also still Dutch barons too, in various branches of Schoonheten, Bevervoerde and Buckhorst. In the 20th century, several of them served in high positions with the household of Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands (reigned 1890 to 1948), two as Chamberlain and two (father and son) as Master of the Horse. Others were diplomats, one as ambassador to Czechoslovakia and one as ambassador to France. There’s no danger of this family becoming extinct any time soon, always maintaining a foot in England and a foot in the Netherlands. We can continue to have our ‘Anglo-Dutch Moment’.

Diepenheim House, looking very Anglo-Dutch

(images Wikimedia Commons)

A Highland fling with the Dukes of Gordon

If you visit the northeast corner of Scotland, Aberdeenshire or the Moray Coast, you cannot help but bump into castles built or towns founded by some member of Clan Gordon. Today they are represented in the Scottish peerage by the marquesses of Huntly and of Aberdeen, but in the 18th century the clan was led by the dukes of Gordon, who, in the person of the famous 4th Duchess, were amongst the great political leaders of that very aristocratic century. As a hostess for the Tory party, she rivalled the Duchess of Devonshire—made famous in a recent film starring Keira Knightly—hostess for the Whigs. But there were only five dukes of Gordon, and after 1836, their titles merged with another great ducal family, the Lennoxes of Richmond, who, although primarily based at Goodwood in Sussex, also had Scottish roots, as their surname suggests. The Gordon properties are primarily represented by Huntly Castle, one of the major fortifications of the Highlands. At their height, the Gordons of Huntly were virtual kings of the North, a continual barrier to the unification of the Scottish Kingdom under the Stewarts in the 16th century.

George, 5th Duke of Gordon

The Gordons were not originally from the Highlands. The first to bear the surname appears in the 1150s, as lord of Gordon in the Merse, the low-lying part of Berwickshire in the borderlands between Scotland and England. It’s conjectured that he was a member of the Swinton family, one of the oldest noble families in all of Britain, with Anglo-Saxon roots in the Kingdom of Northumbria. Both families still have a similar coat of arms, with three boars heads. The village of Gordon (possibly from the Brittonic ‘great fort’) is still to be found in the Borders, not far from Kelso. They built a fortification nearby called Huntly. They were therefore a lowland family for the first two centuries, and became chief supporters of the medieval Scottish monarchy: Adam de Gordon was sent by King Alexander III to accompany King Louis IX as his representative in the 8th Crusade. His grandson Adam was a supporter of the cause of Robert the Bruce and appointed his ambassador to Avignon, charged with the delivery of the famous Declaration of Arbroath (1320) to the Pope, proclaiming Scotland’s independence, and subsequently killed defending this independence at Halidon Hill, 1333.

Soon after, in 1352, the Gordons were granted lands much further north, in the interior of Aberdeenshire, in the valley (or ‘strath’) of the river Bogie. This was a strategic territory connecting the southern parts of the Kingdom with the northern coast of Moray and beyond. A castle had been built at Strathbogie by the earl of Fife, around 1180. The lands were confiscated in the 1330s as its laird supported the rival to Bruce, John Bailliol. Eventually, the Gordons would become the dominant family of the northeast, and renamed Strathbogie castle Huntly in the early 16th century, after their original fortress down south.

Huntly Castle as it stands today

The family who developed Huntly Castle and who eventually became dukes were not in fact (strictly speaking in genealogical terms) Gordons. The next to last lord of Gordon, another Adam, was both baron of Huntly (Strathbogie) in the north, and baron of Gordon in the south, and Warden of the Eastern March (the lands around Berwick). He was killed in an invasion of England in 1402, and his son (also Adam) died a few years later in 1408, leaving a sister, Elizabeth, who was soon married to Alexander Seton. They had two sons: Alexander, who took the name Gordon and became the first earl of Huntly in 1449 (but retained the Seton crescent moons in his coat-of-arms); and William, who kept his father’s surname and founded another line of the Setons who eventually held the earldoms of Winton, Dunfermline and Eglinton.

the arms of the marquesses of Huntly, with quarters for Gordon, the lordship of Badenoch, Seton, and Fraser for the lordship of Aboyne

The Setons were an East Lothian noble house—supposedly descended from the counts of Boulogne, relatives of kings of Jerusalem, dukes of Normandy and counts of Flanders, established in Scotland in the early 12th century. Those who love Scottish history probably recall ‘Mary Seton’ as one of the four Marys who were the dependable companions of Mary, Queen of Scots. They held one of the oldest baronies in Scotland (1371). This is not their story. But it does give an interesting origin story in strict patrilineal descent to the later Gordons. Some lines of the original Gordon family did continue, notably the lairds of Kenmure (in Kirkcudbrightshire), who became viscounts in 1633 (for one of the pioneers of the settlement of Nova Scotia in Canada), and died out in 1847; and the lairds of Haddo (Aberdeenshire), an illegitimate line, who became earls of Aberdeen in 1682 (for Charles II’s Lord Chancellor for Scotland). These later rose to greater prominence in the 19th century, when the 4th Earl served as Prime Minister of the United Kingdom (1852-55); his grandson was Governor-General of Canada (1893-98), then Lord Lieutenant of Ireland (1905-15), and upon his retirement, was raised a notch to be Marquess of Aberdeen and Temair. As an interesting aside, the 2017 marriage of the 7th Marquess’s daughter, Anna Gordon to Sarah McChesney, is cited as the first lesbian marriage for the British aristocracy. Her brother is now the 8th Marquess and his heir is called the Earl of Haddo. Their seat is Haddo House, a Georgian Palladian mansion just north of the city of Aberdeen.

Haddo House

The formerly Seton, now Gordon, first earl of Huntly built up his territories in the Northeast with the acquisition of the lordship of Badenoch—a quite remote territory at the headwaters of the river Spey; the lordship of Cluny, west of Aberdeen; and the lordship of Aboyne, a bit further west in the Dee valley. Alexander Gordon was a strong ally of the Crown in its efforts to suppress the over-mighty Clan Douglas in the 1450s. The Earl’s heroics in helping to defeat them earned him the nickname ‘Cock o’ the North’, a nickname which has ever since been applied to every succeeding head of the clan (and is the name of Clan Gordon’s piping tune still today). When he died in 1470, he was buried in princely style in Elgin Cathedral, on the north coast, which would remain the family burial spot, even long after the building ceased to be a cathedral, its roof removed, and its central tower collapsed.

the tomb of the 1st Earl of Huntly, Elgin Cathedral
Elgin Cathedral ruins today. The Gordon Chapel is in the closest corner at this angle, with tombs all the way up to the last dukes

Another interesting sideline of the Gordon family at about this point in their history was the takeover (in genealogical terms) of the House of Sutherland by the House of Gordon, in 1514. The earldom of Sutherland is the oldest in Scotland (1230)—this family also claimed to be originally from Flanders, and established themselves as the main power in the far north (Caithness and Sutherland—the most ironically named place in Britain). The Gordon-Sutherland line eventually passed to the House of Leveson-Gower, who became dukes of Sutherland in the 19th century, with their fantastical castle at Dunrobin, so their story will be told in a separate blog post.

By the mid-16th century, the Gordons were one of the chief allies of the Crown in the North. Their local rivalries were exacerbated by the Reformation, as they remained Catholic, and the Forbes family, with whom they already had a long-running clan feud, adopted the new Reformed faith. This story already has Game of Thrones overtones with the Earl of Huntly as ‘Cock o’ the North’, but there would be further echoes with the famous ‘red wedding’ type scenario at the Forbes’ Druminnor Castle (not far from Huntly) in 1571, during which 20 Gordons were killed. This was followed by an open battle in which 27 Forbeses were slaughtered at Corgarff Castle.

a wonderful ancient recording (1906!) of the Gordon piping tune, ‘Cock o’ the North’

Huntly Castle was increasingly enlarged as the family took on more ‘princely’ airs, but this led to conflict, first with their former ally (as staunch Catholics), Mary Queen of Scots in the 1560s, and then with her Protestant son (still being fervent Catholics) James VI in the 1590s. Yet, they continued to rebuild, and George Gordon, 1st Marquess of Huntly, turned the castle into a genuine fortified palace, with extra wings for visitors and servants, and proclaimed his new status boldly with huge lettering across the front of the building.

the bold lettering at Huntly Castle

The 1st Marquess had initially been a great favourite of James VI and married one of his cousins, Henrietta Stuart of Lennox. He had tentatively adopted the new Presbyterian faith of his king, but ultimately his family motto, Bydand (‘biding’ or ‘steadfast’) seems to have pulled him back to his loyalty to the Catholic Church. After a short rebellion, 1593-94, his friendship with the King was nevertheless restored, he was named Royal Lieutenant of the North, and raised to his marquessate in 1599. He and his wife would remain devoted servants to King James and to his son Charles I for the next 30 years.

But the grand palatial status of Huntly Castle once again became a target, this time to Covenanters during the Civil Wars, and following the execution of the 2nd Marquess of Huntly—also called George, an able Royalist cavalry commander—in March 1649, the castle’s defences were slighted and it was mostly abandoned. The later dukes of Gordon developed the town of Huntly in the 18th century (with a modern grid pattern), and its flax industry, but they did not reside in the now ruinous castle. Their successors, the dukes of Richmond and Gordon continued to own the land until the 1930s, and had already given the castle to the state in 1923—today it is in the care of Historic Environment Scotland.

George Gordon, 2nd Marquess of Huntly

Following the execution of the 2nd Marquess of Huntly in 1649 and the death of his son and successor the 3rd Marquess in 1653, another George Gordon, the 4th Marquess, turned his attentions further south. As was tradition, he had been sent to France for a Catholic education, then served in the French armies under the greatest commander of the age, Turenne. He then returned to Britain and the court of King Charles II, where he married Lady Elizabeth Howard, daughter of the Duke of Norfolk—an alliance of the two grandest Catholic houses in England and Scotland. The dukedom of Norfolk had been restored to the Howards during the Restoration, and Charles also began rewarding some of the great Scottish supporters of his reign with this top title in the peerage: Maitland in 1672, Leslie in 1680 (not counting those dukedoms being created for his bastard sons). In November 1684, both the Gordons and the Douglases were also made dukes, of Gordon and Queensberry, respectively. I suspect the Gordon dukedom was created with the aim of balancing the Scottish peerage with at least one openly Catholic duke. The next year, King Charles was dead, and the Catholic James VII and II was glad to have a Catholic ally in Scotland—the Duke of Gordon was appointed Constable of Edinburgh Castle, a Commissioner of the Scottish Treasury and a founding Knight of the Order of the Thistle. But his loyalty was not very durable (or Bydand), and when the Glorious Revolution swept James from the throne in 1688-89, Gordon only weakly held Edinburgh for him for a short time, then joined James in exile in France. He soon returned to Britain, and by the reign of Queen Anne (1702-14) had regained some favour at court. He was, however, arrested in 1707 as a Jacobite sympathiser—his daughter was married to the head of the exiled Jacobite court, the Duke of Perth; his son took part in the Jacobite rising of 1715—and he died in disgrace at his residence in Leith in 1716.

the 4th Marquess of Huntly before his promotion to 1st Duke of Gordon

The son, Alexander, now 2nd Duke of Gordon, was pardoned by the new king, George I. His life was fairly short, and he was succeeded in 1728 by his eldest son Cosmo, who was still a child. His name is said to come from Cosimo, Grand Duke of Tuscany, who was a supporter of the Old Pretender (‘James III’), now in exile in Italy.

Cosmo George, 3rd Duke of Gordon

The family continued to have mixed feelings about its support for the Jacobites. The 3rd Duke married a Gordon, granddaughter of the Earl of Aberdeen who arrested his father during the ’15; and his sister married that same Earl’s son. Their brother, Lord Charles Gordon led government troops against the forces of Bonnie Prince Charlie in the second Jacobite rising in 1745. In sharp contrast, Lord Lewis abandoned his post in the Mediterranean fleet to join the Prince’s war council, and was instrumental in recruiting hundreds of men (sometimes by force) from his family’s vast estates for the Jacobite cause (one source says Gordon tenants and associates supplied about a quarter of the entire Jacobite army in the ’45). The Duke himself did not commit to the Jacobite cause, but he delayed in his formal condemnation of his brother’s and his tenants’ actions. The Jacobites were defeated at Culloden in April 1746; Lord Lewis escaped and died in France. The 3rd Duke also died soon after, in 1752, at only 32 years old. Only the youngest brother, Lord Adam Gordon lived a long, full life, rising through the ranks of the army as commander of the Royal Scots regiment to become Commander-in-Chief for Scotland in 1789, and governor of Edinburgh Castle in 1796.

Lord Lewis Gordon
Lord Adam Gordon

Alexander, 4th Duke of Gordon, at age 9 was one of the largest landowners in all of Great Britain. As an adult, he entered politics, and to ensure he had a seat in the British House of Lords (and not just as one of the few representative peers for Scotland), he was given a barony in 1784 in Gloucestershire, named for the small village of Huntley in the Forest of Dean, which in reality had no connection to the Gordon family. He was also given the earldom of Norwich, in Norfolk, which similarly had little connection to the family (though perhaps recalled his family’s former connection to the Howards of Norfolk). He played a moderate role in politics (especially compared with his wife), but for many years served as Keeper of the Great Seal of Scotland.

the 4th Duke of Gordon

The 4th Duke also re-fortified his position in Scotland by aggrandising his ducal seat: this had shifted away from the now crumbling Huntly Castle and instead was some miles to the north at Gordon Castle, near the mouth of the River Spey. A typical Scottish tower house had been here since the 1470s, built by the 2nd Earl of Huntly. In the 1770s, the 4th Duke had the original castle enveloped within a new central block and added two wings, making it one of the largest country houses ever built in Scotland. With the rising costs of running a country house, and mounting death duties, it became impossible for the Gordon-Lennox family to sustain two ducal seats (here and at Goodwood), so Gordon Castle was sold in 1938 to the Crown Estate. After the Second World War, however, Sir George Gordon-Lennox (a grandson of the 7th Duke of Richmond and Gordon) repurchased the estate, and decided to demolish much of it to create a more manageable country home. Today the tower remains and one of the wings, but it is not open to visitors; the nearby walled garden is, however, and it is stunning.

Gordon Castle in 1911

As he got older, the 4th Duke of Gordon retreated from politics to his new country house—here he developed a new breed of hunting dog, the Gordon Setter. It was his wife, born Jane Maxwell, who became one of the leading forces in British politics of the 1780s, as the chief society hostess for the Tory Party at houses she and her husband rented on Pall Mall, then on St James’s Square in London. She is credited with making Scottish culture fashionable, its music and its dress, after it had been formally banned after Culloden. In 1794, she and her husband raised the famous Gordon Highlanders Regiment—though she was criticised, like her rival the Duchess of Devonshire, for using her feminine charms to recruit men for service. Jane shocked society by having fairly open affairs, but so too did her husband, living apart from her far away in northern Scotland. Yet she was quite successful socially, in marrying off three of her five daughters to dukes. One of these was Charlotte, Duchess of Richmond, who famously hosted the Waterloo Ball in Brussels in 1815, and ultimately would be the heiress of the Gordon estates.

Jane, 4th Duchess of Gordon
one of the many political cartoons featuring the Duchess of Gordon by James Gillray. In this one she is trying to harness the duke of Bedford for one of her daughters

The 4th Duke’s younger brothers also led shocking lives, in different ways. Lord William was the dashing young soldier—as portrayed in the book and television mini-series The Aristocrats, about the Lennox sisters (one of my favourites)—who seduced the already married Lady Sarah Lennox, eloped and had a child with her, then abandoned her for new adventures. His brother Lord George was even more interesting, at first leading a crusade against the proposed Catholic emancipation bills (the family was by now Protestant) that led to a riot in London in June 1780. The ‘Gordon Riots’, after trying to force their way into the Commons, instead turned to burning Catholic chapels, setting fire to Newgate Prison, and attacking other public buildings, were eventually put down by the army, leaving hundreds killed or wounded. Lord George was charged with high treason and put into the Tower, but was acquitted. After getting into difficult entanglements with the Anglican Church and the Court of France (for defaming Queen Marie-Antoinette), he settled in Birmingham where he converted to Judaism and gained followers amongst the ultra-orthodox who considered him a new Moses, come to deliver his people. As Yisrael bar Avraham, he was arrested (the scandal against the French queen having caught up with him), and he spent the next few years in Newgate Prison where he died in 1793.

Lord Charles Gordon, with The Protestant Petition
another political cartoon, this one of ‘the Birmingham Moses’

Jane, Duchess of Gordon, died in 1812; her husband, the 4th Duke then married his long-term mistress, also called Jane, in Fochabers, the town he built next to Gordon Castle. He died in 1827, and passed his vast estates and many titles to his eldest son, George, 5th Duke of Gordon. He had lived most of his life as the ‘Marquess of Huntly’, and rose to be a general in the British army, commanding the Highlanders in the Revolutionary Wars. After his father’s death, he succeeded him in his posts as Keeper of the Great Seal of Scotland and Governor of Edinburgh Castle. His wife was Mistress of the Robes to Queen Adelaide from 1830. As a political conservative, the 5th Duke opposed the Great Reform Bill of 1832, but when he died in 1836, he left a huge fortune to his widow, born Elizabeth Brodie, who had very different ideas. Known as ‘the Good Duchess’, she was the founder of schools and charities all over Scotland. She also became a pillar of the new Free Church of Scotland, an evangelical split from the Church of Scotland, and funded the construction of a new church in Edinburgh. She also built a new school and Gordon Chapel in Fochabers with some of the most beautiful stained glass windows in Britain. She lived to a ripe old age and died in 1864.

George, 5th Duke of Gordon
Elizabeth, 5th Duchess of Gordon, who lived long enough to enter the age of photography

The death of the 5th Duke of Gordon without any legitimate sons (he did have illegitimate children, including the portrait painter and Australian pioneer Georgiana McCrae), meant that the dukedom of Gordon became extinct (and the British titles of Norwich and Huntley). The title marquess of Huntly passed to the next male heir, from the distant line of the earls of Aboyne (branched off in the 1660s), while the estates passed to his eldest sister, Charlotte, the Duchess of Richmond. Their son took the name Gordon-Lennox, and their grandson, the 6th Duke of Richmond, was re-created Duke of Gordon in 1876 (in the peerage of the United Kingdom, not of Scotland). See the dukes of Richmond for their story.

The head of clan Gordon today is thus the 13th Marquess of Huntly (b. 1944), who lives at Aboyne Castle—a 13th-century castle built near the River Dee, rebuilt in the 17th and 18th centuries, but nearly derelict until restored by the family in the 1980s. There are numerous other branches of the family; some held baronetcies (including Gordonstoun, whose castle now houses the world-famous school outside Elgin), but these are all, with one exception, either extinct or dormant. There are also untitled branches—one of these, Gordon of Gight, ultimately produced the famous poet Lord Byron, whose mother was heiress of the Gight estates in Aberdeenshire (George Gordon Byron).

Aboyne Castle, today’s seat of the Marquess of Huntly

The dukedom of Gordon may have been subsumed into another ducal family, but we still have Gordon tartan, Gordon Highlanders (though merged in the 1990s with the Queen’s Own Highlanders), and Gordon piping tunes.

today’s Marquess of Huntly, wearing the Gordon tartan

(images Wikimedia Commons).

The House of Lancaster in Portugal: Dukes of Aveiro and Abrantes

Lancaster is a very English place name, and the name used by dynastic historians for one side of the epic struggle for the English throne known as the Wars of the Roses. Curiously, as ‘Lencastre’ it is also a surname used by one of the few Portuguese noble families to hold ducal rank. Aveiro was one of the only dukedoms created in Portugal in the 16th century, based on a town in the north of the Kingdom; a century later, another Portuguese town, Abrantes, also gave its name to a dukedom. But the story is more complex, as the dukedom of Abrantes was created by the king of Spain in his efforts to keep a hold over the Portuguese nobility; another dukedom of Aveiro was created in Spain for a similar reason (to little effect). The Spanish dukedom of Abrantes continued to be held by the Lencastre family (now spelled Láncaster in Spanish), though the estates were held by a different family, and the dukedom was re-created for them by the King of Portugal later in the 18th century. So there were two dukedoms of Aveiro and two dukedoms of Abrantes. Portuguese and Spanish. To add even more confusion, there is also a Napoleonic duchy of Abrantès, created for a French general in the early 19th century. Today the Casa de Lancastre e Távora continues to bear this very English-sounding surname in Portugal.

The Coat of Arms of the Lencastre family: Portugal with a bend for illegitimacy

How did the name Lancaster get to the Iberian Peninsula in the first place? In 1387, Philippa of Lancaster, eldest daughter of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, married João I first king of the Avis dynasty that had re-asserted Portuguese independence from Castile only two years before at the Battle of Aljubarrota, with support from England. In 1386, England and Portugal signed the Treaty of Windsor, which created an alliance which is considered the oldest still extant alliance in the world. John of Gaunt soon arrived, but not just to help his new son-in-law: he also brought an army to try to assert his own claims to the Castilian throne, which he claimed in the name of his second wife, Constance of Castile, daughter and heir of King Pedro I. By the time of Philippa’s marriage in 1387, however, her father’s troops had been pushed out of Castile, and his wife had renounced her claims (in return for a sizable payoff) and her daughter Catherine of Lancaster married her rival’s son, the Infante Enrique (the future King Henry III of Castile). So by 1390, there were two Lancastrian women on the thrones of the Iberian kingdoms: Philippa in Portugal and Catherine in Castile. The Castilian descent from John of Gaunt in the House of Trastámara would, interestingly, return to England 100 years later in the person of Catherine of Aragon (or, more properly, Catherine of Castile and Aragon), whose claims to the English throne, it could be said, were better than those of her husband, Arthur, prince of Wales (and later his brother King Henry VIII), a descendant of John of Gaunt’s illegitimate children with Katherine Swynford.

The wedding of Philippa of Lancaster and João I of Portugal

John of Gaunt’s older daughter, known as Filipa de Lencastre in Portuguese, helped her husband King João launch Portugal’s golden age, in part by producing an army of royal children known to history as ‘The Illustrious Generation’ (most famously, Prince Henry the Navigator). When she died in 1415, her surname might have died with her, but for the tradition of extending maternal names, especially to daughters, that was prevalent in the Iberian kingdoms. Philippa’s daughters were fully royal, so they were never known by anything but ‘of Portugal’ as a surname. But in the next generation, the daughters of Philippa’s sons, this practice emerged. The two daughters of her second son, the Duke of Coimbra, both used this name: Isabel de Lencastre (or sometimes de Coimbra) was herself Queen of Portugal through marriage to her cousin Afonso V in 1450, but died soon after, leaving behind a son, King João II. Her younger sister, Filipa de Lencastre, never married and raised young João as her own. Like her namesake and grandmother, she was seen as a model of royal womanhood, pious and wise, and when João II had a son of his own, Jorge, in 1481, it is said he wished to honour these women by giving him the surname ‘de Lancastre’ (or sometimes ‘Alencastro’ to contemporaries)—though usage of this name didn’t really start until the next generation—as well as the title of his illustrious maternal grandfather, the Duke of Coimbra. I wonder, purely speculatively, whether King João had also taken note of events in England where, since 1471, the legitimate line of Lancaster had become extinct—maybe the use of this name was a subtle suggestion that his son could one day challenge the usurping House of York?

Isabel de Lencastre, Queen of Portugal

The trouble was, Jorge was illegitimate. His mother was Ana de Mendoza, a maid of honour of the King’s sister, Infanta Joana; she later became Commandress of the Monastery of Santos in Lisbon (a monastery we will encounter again later in this post). The King tried to legitimise him, but was blocked by the Pope (and by his own queen, Leonor), so instead he granted him two of the highest positions in Portugal, the grand masterships of both the Order of Avis and the Order of Santiago (the Portuguese branch). He agreed to not challenge the succession of his first cousin, Manuel, with the promise that the new king would give his illegitimate son the dukedom of Coimbra and marry him to a royal princess. King Manuel delayed as much as he could, not wishing to set up such a powerful rival, but did re-create the royal dukedom of Coimbra in 1500 (though not formally confirmed until 1509), and married him to a Bragança, so, not quite royal, but close enough.

a poor quality image of Jorge de Lencastre, Duke of Coimbra

As part of the dukedom of Coimbra, Jorge was also lord of Aveiro, a small port town on the northern coast. It oversaw the trade in and around the large Lagoon of Aveiro and its important salt pans. Young Jorge had been raised in a convent here, but was later taken to the town of Abrantes, in central Portugal, where he was looked after by the local commander of its castle (alcaide mor), Lopo de Almeida, 1st Count of Abrantes. Remember the name Almeida in the context of Abrantes, as we’ll encounter it again later. The castle of Abrantes had been conquered from the Moors by Afonso Henriques, first independent king of Portugal, in 1148 shortly after he had retaken Lisbon. Its name is thought to derive from the Latin aurantes, referring to gold found in this region.

the Castle of Abrantes

Another lordship he held was that of Torres Novas, in the centre of the Kingdom, where a huge fortress had been built overlooking the Tagus valley with its confluence with the river Zêzere, one of the most important rivers flowing down from the north. A tower has existed here since Roman times, and ‘new towers’ were built following the re-conquest of the 12th century. As an important crossroads for the Kingdom, Torres Novas had in the past served as a meeting place for the Portuguese Cortes, a space for royal weddings, and the proclamation of regency governments.

the Castle of Torres Novas

Jorge, Duke of Coimbra, Lord of Aveiro and Torres Novas, Master of the Orders of Santiago and Avis, lived peaceably with his royal cousin, Manuel, though he established a sort of loyal opposition court at his seat in Palmela, the headquarters of the Order of Santiago, the source of his political power and wealth. The Order, sometimes referred to as ‘Santiago of the Sword’ to distinguish it from the Spanish branch (they had been separated in 1288), had been based at the castle of Palmela since 1210. Located south of the Tagus estuary (across from Lisbon), the Castelo de Palmela was one of the most impressive castles in Portugal and the site of much of its military and political history in the Middle Ages. It dominated the Setúbal Peninsula, which was where most of the Order’s lordships (called commanderies) were located, being described by some as almost a state within a state.

the Castile of Palmela

As such, the Order of Santiago was a threat to royal power, and King Manuel wished to take it over, as the Spanish kings had already done to their branch—as a source of great wealth and influence—and continually chipped away at the Duke of Coimbra’s power (in part by luring away some of the most prominent knights, like Vasco da Gama and Dom Francisco de Almeida, the first viceroy of Portuguese India—one of the sons of Lopo de Almeida and thus an early contact from Coimbra’s childhood, and a painful loss to his clientele network). Finally, at Jorge de Lencastre’s death in 1550, Manuel’s son, João III, managed to get a bull from the Pope appointing him personally as Grand Master of the Order. He was also appointed Master of the Order of Avis, and was already Master of the Order of Christ, so from this point on, all of the formerly independent military orders in Portugal were united with the Crown.

The rivalry thus continued in the next generation. King João III and João de Lencastre challenged each other in both political and social spheres. The latter was created Marquês de Torres Novas in 1520 as a gesture of peace by King Manuel before he died, but was imprisoned shortly thereafter by King João and held for nine years, on dubious charges. Nevertheless, he was given tasks of great honour to undertake on behalf of the monarch: in 1539 he was sent to the court of Charles V to offer condolences on the death of Empress Isabel (the King’s sister); and in 1551, he was sent to Spain to formally escort the Infanta Juana to Portugal for her marriage to the Hereditary Prince, Dom João Manuel. But by 1551, Lencastre’s father had died and it was clear that his semi-royal title of Duke of Coimbra would not be continued. Instead his lordship of Aveiro was raised to a dukedom—exactly when is uncertain (and it is clear that the King delayed as long as possible); some sources say as early 1530 or 1535, but certainly by 1547, perhaps as a wedding gift from the King on the occasion of Dom João’s marriage to Juliana de Meneses. And although he was not allowed to succeed to his father’s post of Grand Master of Santiago, the 1st Duke of Aveiro was allowed to retain some of the Order’s more lucrative commanderies, notably Setúbal and Azeitão.

Arms of the Duke of Aveiro

In the 1520s-30s, Duke Jorge and his son built two summer residences in the town of Setúbal and its suburb Azeitão. This area south of the city of Lisbon, on the Atlantic coast at the mouth of the river Sado was becoming increasingly fashionable by the Portuguese aristocracy as a place to build homes to escape the summer heat of the capital.

an 18th-century map of Portugal showing the mouth of the Tagus and to the south the Sado Peninsula.

At first the favoured residence was close to the port of Setúbal, a town made rich on the trade of salt pulled from the marshy flats in the grand estuary of the Sado. The palace of the Duke, as Grand Master of Santiago, was next to the ancient church of São Julião, used as his private chapel (and Juliano/a would become an important name for the dynasty). The church was rebuilt in Manueline style in the 1510s, and although the palace was completely demolished in the 18th century, the main door of the church survives in this distinctively Portuguese style (while the rest was rebuilt in a more baroque fashion).

the main doorway of the church of São Julião, Setúbal

Across a small range of hills from the coast and the harbour of Setúbal, a monumental palace was built in Azeitão, with a grand central block and two wings, all in a Mannerist late Renaissance style. Soon known as the Palace of the Dukes of Aveiro, the building would become the main residence of the dynasty by the end of the century (a period when most of the aristocracy abandoned Lisbon for the countryside altogether), and the third duke embellished it with the now emblematic Portuguese blue and white tiles. In the 17th century, Azeitão would be the seat of the duke, while Setúbal would be used by the heir. Unlike the palace in Setúbal, this building alone would be spared the destruction of the family’s assets in 1759 (see below), though it was looted and never regained its former grandeur. Today it remains in private hands, but looks like it needs a bit of a makeover.

Palace of the Dukes of Aveiro at Azeitão

After 1550, the Lencastre family did not lose its hold over the military orders of Portugal entirely. The Duke of Coimbra / Grand Master of Santiago had several sons, and he had appointed the second and third to the office of Comendador-Mor (Grand Commander) of the orders of Santiago (for Afonso) and Avis (for Luis). Both of these posts became more or less hereditary (though formally always having to be reconfirmed by the monarch) for their descendants, whom we will meet again below. A fourth son, Jaime, became one of the first Inquisitors in Portugal and later bishop of Ceuta (with the accompanying very grand title ‘Primate of Africa’); while two of his daughters headed important convents, Helena at the Monastery of Santos, formerly held by her grandmother, and Filipa at São João in Setúbal.

The first Duke of Aveiro died in 1571, leaving this title to his son, Jorge II. Jorge and his younger brother, Pedro-Dinis, Lord of Porto-Seguro, were both avid companions of the new young king, Sebastião (Pedro-Dinis was appointed his Mordomo-mor, head of the household), and accompanied him in wars of conquest in North Africa, first in 1574, and then Jorge II alone (Pedro-Dinis having died young in 1575) in 1578. The King, the 2nd Duke of Aveiro, the Duke’s cousin Jorge de Lencastre (and Jorge’s sister’s betrothed), and much of the flower of the Portuguese nobility were all killed at the disastrous Battle of Alcácer Quibir (or al Quasr al-kibr), 4 August 1578.

a near contemporary engraving of the Battle of Alcácer Quibir

The 2nd Duke left behind an only child, a daughter, Juliana, who at 18 (approximately) wished to maintain her independence as 3rd Duchess of Aveiro, but was forced in 1588 by the new king of Portugal to marry her cousin, the male heir, Dom Álvaro. He was the son of Afonso the Comendador-Mor of the Order of Santiago (who passed this post on to the youngest son, Manuel (and his daughter became another Commandress of the Monastery of Santos), and had earned the favour of the new king by professing his loyalty soon after his accession in 1580. This was significant since the new king was none other than Philip II of Spain, whose hereditary rights to the throne of Portugal had not been so well embraced by other members of the Portuguese nobility. This loyalty to the Spanish Habsburgs would be an important feature of the history of the House of Lencastre-Aveiro for the next sixty years until the War of Restoration. The noble house that led that war, and was proclaimed the new Portuguese royal dynasty, were the dukes of Bragança, who, like the Aveiro, were descendants of illegitimate offspring of a previous Portuguese king. They became great rivals, and the Aveiro dynasty would suffer once the Braganças took power after 1640.

But for now, loyalty to the Habsburgs meant great benefits. Duke Álvaro was renewed in possession of the great estates of the Order of Santiago (Setúbal, Azeitão, etc), the dukedom of Aveiro was made fully hereditary, and he was given a promise by King Philip (II of Spain, I of Portugal) that he would create another dukedom for his son and heir at the time of his marriage. In 1606 his style of address was augmented by King Philip II (III of Spain) to that of ‘Excellency’, which thus matched that given to the Duke of Bragança. And in 1618 the King helped arrange a prestigious marriage that satisfied the Habsburg imperial strategy of uniting the high aristocracies across the empire through marriage. Álvaro and Juliana’s son and heir thus married Ana Doria, daughter of the Prince of Melfi. Melfi is a fief of the Kingdom of Naples (part of the Spanish Monarchy), but the Dorias’ real powerbase was Genoa, which, while not formally part of the Spanish dominions, was crucial for Spanish control of the Mediterranean for its large navy and formidable commanders. Indeed, Ana was escorted by a Genoese fleet of 11 galleys, joined by the Spanish and Portuguese fleets at they passed Gibraltar, to her marriage in Setúbal. This marriage was one of the largest and grandest seen in Portugal, will balls, fiestas, fireworks, bullfights and processions, and was done deliberately (nearly bankrupting the ducal couple) to emphasise their semi-royal status in Portugal. The ducal court was large: he was attended by a Guarda dos Todescos (German Guard) and she a full suite of ladies-in-waiting. These again emphasised their semi-royal status, and their loyalty to the Habsburgs, as it was they who introduced the custom of having a German guard into the Iberian peninsula. As grand noble patrons of the region, the Duke and Duchess of Aveiro built a hospital at Azeitão, and embellished the Convent of Arrábida, built by the 1st Duke in the hills west of the town of Setúbal in the 1540s, which would be their burial place.

the convent of Arrábida

After the wedding, King Philip himself visited both Azeitão and Setúbal, where he hunted with the ducal family and hosted the annual gathering of the knights of the Order of Avis. This was the first visit by a Habsburg monarch to Portugal since the 1580s. For their wedding gift, the King gave young Jorge and Ana the new title, as promised, raising the marquisate of Torres Novas into a dukedom, and extending possession of the Santiago commanderies to their family for another lifetime (meaning it wouldn’t need to be renewed when Álvaro died).

[the details on this wedding and the family’s subsequent favour from Spanish kings are derived from a fascinating article published last year in The Court Historian by Cristóvão Mata: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/14629712.2021.1945286 ]

Sadly, Ana Doria died only a few months after her wedding. The Duke of Torres Novas remarried two years later a Castilian heiress: Ana María Manrique de Cárdenas, a potential heiress of two dukedoms: Maqueda from her father and Nájera from her mother. For now her importance was in court politics, as she was a lady-in-waiting to the Queen (Isabel de Bourbon); as was her sister-in-law, Ana de Sande, wife of Afonso de Lencastre, Grand Commander of the Order of Santiago, 2nd Marquis of Valdefuentes (in Extremadura, western Spain, which Ana de Sande brought to the marriage) and 1st of Porto-Seguro—a town on the southeast coast of the colony of Brazil, in Bahia, over which Afonso was also named Captain-General. He was named a member of the War Council and General of the Galleys of Portugal (1625). The three sisters who married (of six total, and a total of 13 surviving children), in contrast, all married Portuguese nobles, but noticeably those who were in support of the Habsburg regime. The second of these married in 1625 Manrique da Silva, 6th Count of Portalegre, created Marquês de Gouveia for this marriage, who was Mordomo-mor for the Spanish king at his court in Portugal—an important placeholder position for a court that mostly existed in name only.

Jorge III remained Duke of Torres Novas until he died in 1632, since his mother Juliana outlived him, and thus retained the title 3rd Duchess of Aveiro—finally getting her wish to rule the duchy in her own name, only 40 years later. He was succeeded by his eldest son, Raimundo, 2nd Duke of Torres Novas, then 4th Duke of Aveiro once his grandmother died in 1636. In 1657 he became heir to his mother’s claims to the duchy of Maqueda (based near Toledo)—it took litigation, but by 1660, he was awarded the duchy, the large marquisates of Montemayor (in Andalusia) and Elche (in Valencia), plus the honorific posts of Adelantado mayor of the Kingdom of Granada and Alcaide mayor of the fortress of Toledo. (He claimed Nájera too, but it was given to a cousin). Raimundo (Ramón in Spanish) was thus thoroughly Hispanised—though at first he had supported the Braganças and the proclamation of Portuguese independence in 1640. He sat at ducal rank at the Cortes of Portugal of 1642, though he was only 12 or 13 (so who knows what his real political convictions were!).

Duke Raimundo switched sides suddenly to support the Habsburgs in 1659—perhaps he was preparing to take over his mother’s Castilian inheritance? A letter he wrote to the Portuguese ambassador in France (to which he fled on his way to Spain) suggests that he had aspirations himself to one day be king of Portugal—why the Braganças and not him?—though it seems pretty unlikely that this was something the Spanish king would ever agree to. Philip IV instead granted him another dukedom, Ciudad Real, in 1661, based in La Mancha (and not to be confused with the older dukedom of Ciudad Real which was in fact based on a Neapolitan fief, Cittareale). He asked for a command in the war against Portugal, but was refused. Meanwhile, the Portuguese courts declared him a traitor and confiscated his properties—his mother and sister soon left to join him in Madrid. In 1664, Duke Ramón made a very good marriage, similar to his father’s first marriage along the lines of connecting together all the grand aristocracies of the multi-national Spanish Monarchy. Claire-Louise de Ligne was daughter of Claude-Lamoral, 3rd Prince de Ligne, Captain-General of the Spanish Cavalry in the Low Countries, and Claire-Marie of Nassau-Siegen. In 1665, he was given command of a fleet sent from Cadiz to attack Portugal (one of the targets being his own former home in Setúbal). He had minimal success and died the following year back in Cadiz. He left only an illegitimate son, who became a military commander in Spanish service in Sicily, and a sister, María de Guadalupe.

A recently discovered miniature thought to be of Maria de Gudalupe de Lencastre

Meanwhile, in Portugal, the confiscated duchies of Aveiro and Torres Novas had been awarded in 1663 to Raimundo’s uncle, Pedro de Lencastre, Archbishop of Braga—the primary archbishopric in Portugal (and indeed, claiming to be so in all of Iberia too, with the title ‘Primate of the Spains’, which was naturally contested by Toledo). Pedro was also Grand Inquisitor of Portugal and one of the royal counsellors of King João IV (ie, the Bragança king). Another male of the House of Lencastre, the Duke of Abrantes, was out of the question, as he was also in service of Spain (see below). Once peace was proclaimed in 1668, Maria de Guadalupe began to pursue her uncle’s possession of the family estates in the lawcourts. She was awarded her mother’s duchy of Maqueda right away, but had to pursue her uncle for another 10 years—the old man resigned his post as Archbishop (to another Lencestre cousin, Veríssimo), but held on to the Duchy of Aveiro until he died in 1673.

Veríssimo, Cardinal de Alencastro, Archbishop of Braga (as by now you can see, portraits of the main line of dukes of Aveiro were successfully destroyed by earthquake, then the destruction of properties of the mid-18th century)

Still the lawsuit went on, as Maria de Guadalupe was challenged by her cousin the Duke of Abrantes. Finally in 1679, she was confirmed as 6th Duchess of Aveiro, but only on condition that she return to Portugal. She had married the Castilian magnate, Manuel Ponce de León, 6th Duke of Arcos, in 1665, who opposed this agreement; so she began proceedings to legally separate from him. While the Spanish courts delayed, King Carlos II tried to lure her to stay in Spain, by creating her Duchess of ‘Aveyro’ (I don’t know if this was based on different estates), but it was no use. When she moved back to Portugal, she made a settlement with her husband: the elder son, Joaquín, would receive the dukedom of Arcos, while the younger, Gabriel, would assume the name ‘Lencastre’ and would be her primary heir. The 6th Duchess lived for another 30 years or so; contemporary sources say she was known as one of the most virtuous and knowledgeable women in Europe, with ability in Latin, Greek and Hebrew, plus nearly all living European languages, and knowledge of both sacred and profane history. She was a significant funder of Portuguese missions to Asia and Africa.

Maria de Guadalupe, 6th Duchess of Aveiro, Duchess of Maqueda

Maria de Guadalupe’s son Gabriel stayed in Spain while his mother re-established the family in Portugal. He served in the Spanish army, and was created Duke of Baños in 1699 to try to retain his loyalty (and is referred to as the 2nd Duke of Aveyro, though his mother was living). Eventually Gabriel did move to Portugal, where he was acknowledged as 7th Duke of Aveiro and Alcaide-mor of Setúbal. He died in 1745, once again throwing the family succession into disarray. Joaquín Ponce de León’s son, Antonio claimed the succession, but this was easily thrown out of the Portuguese courts. Another dismissed claimant was the Duke of Abrantes and Linares. So now we can turn finally to the dukedom of Abrantes.

the tomb of Gabriel, 7th Duke of Aveiro

As noted above, there was a county of Abrantes created for the Almeida family in the 1470s. This family became extinct in 1650, and the title disappeared for a time. Perhaps in anticipation of this extinction (?), King Philip IV in 1642, after the start of the Portuguese revolt, created a new title, a dukedom of Abrantes, and gave it to Alfonso de Láncaster. Afonso (in Portuguese) was the second son of the 3rd Duke and Duchess of Aveiro. As seen above, he assumed the family’s second title of Grand Commander of the Order of Santiago, and was given the title Marquês de Porto-Seguro (in Brazil) by King Philip in honour of his marriage in 1627 to a Spanish heiress. By 1639 he was Alcaide-mor of Abrantes (ie, captain of the fortress), which was then erected into a duchy as a reward for his loyalty to the Habsburgs. Needless to say, this dukedom was never recognised in the Kingdom of Portugal. After his wife died in 1650, he became a priest, and when he died in 1654, the new title passed to his son Agustín (Agostinho in Portuguese).

As we’ve seen, the 2nd Duke of Abrantes unsuccessfully challenged his cousin for the succession to the Aveiro lands and titles in the 1660s. He retained his father’s title of Grand Commander of the Order of Santiago, but was given no authority in this area in Portugal either. He did marry well, in about 1660, into one of the other grand Portuguese families who had stayed loyal to the Habsburgs: the Noronha de Linhares. This family and its dukedom (created in 1667, though like Abrantes never recognised in Portugal) will be the subject of a future blog post. They were yet another family descended illegitimately from royalty, though in this case, interestingly, they were descended from King Enrique II of Castile (d. 1379), not a Portuguese king. Nevertheless, they moved swiftly into Portuguese service and were given numerous titles (and two served as viceroy of India). The 2nd Duke of Linares (as it was spelled in Spanish, or sometimes Liñares) died in 1703, and his titles passed to his sister’s son Fernando de Alencastre Noroña (son of the 2nd Duke of Abrantes, who lived on into his 80s, dying in 1720). The 3rd Duke of Linares was one of the strong supporters of the new Bourbon regime in Spain, and was named Gentleman of the Chamber of the new king, Philip V (his sister Manuela served as dama de honor to both of Philip’s queens). In 1711 Fernando was given the great honour of an appointment as Viceroy of New Spain. In Mexico City he worked to improve working conditions for the poor, and opened the first public library and a museum of natural history. He also was a patron of the arts, and his court hosted the first opera in North America, La Parténope by Manuel de Sumaya. He founded colonies in the far north, in today’s Texas, New Mexico and California, including a town in Nueva León which is still called Linares. On the more negative side, he oversaw the implementation of one of the key clauses of the Treaty of Utrecht of 1713, by which the British were given the monopoly to run the slave trade in the Spanish colonies, the Asiento, a source of unimaginable wealth for the English. He resigned his post due to ill health in 1716, but died in Mexico City in 1717 before he could make the voyage back to Europe.

Fernando de Alencastre Noroña, 3rd Duke of Linares, Viceroy of New Spain

The 3rd Duke of Linares was succeeded by his brother Juan Manuel, who also became the 3rd Duke of Abrantes on the death of their father. He was a cleric—nominated by the King to the bishopric of Malaga in 1717, but was rejected by the Pope; instead he was appointed to the see of Cuenca in 1721, and in 1733 to the highly honorific title ‘Patriarch of the Indies’, but died only a year later. Another grand succession case thus opened, for huge estates in Spain, yes, but also for two Portuguese dukedoms that were not recognised in Portugal. These passed to the Bishop-Duke’s sister’s son, Juan de Carvajal y Lencastre, 4th Duke of Abrantes and 5th Duke of Linares. The Carvajal family were old nobles from the region of Extremadura (on the borders with Portugal, so there are also representatives there with the spelling Carvalhal). The 4th Duke of Abrantes was outshone in politics by his brother José who served as a Minister of State (and head of the Junta of Commerce and Finance) in the reign of King Ferdinand VI of Spain (1740s-50s); while their youngest brother Isidoro was a prominent member of the conservative wing of the Church, succeeding their great-uncle as Bishop of Cuenca in 1760.

José de Carvajal y Lancáster, Secretary of State

The Carvajal y Láncaster family continued to hold the two dukedoms of Abrantes and Linares in direct male descent until the early 20th century, when they passed by marriage into the family Zuleta de Reales, which continues to the present. They are both considered dukedoms within the Spanish peerage and nothing to do with Portugal. The dukes of Abrantes acquired a palace in Madrid (originally built in the 1650s) in 1842, on the Calle Mayor (quite close to the Cathedral and the Royal Palace), but sold it to the Italian government in 1888—it served as the Italian Embassy until 1939, and today is the Institute of Italian Culture. From the end of the 19th century, their seat was the Palace of Abrantes in the southern city of Jerez.

the Palace of the Dukes of Abrantes, Madrid
the Palace of the Dukes of Abrantes, Jerez

Returning to the 18th century, the contested succession of the last Duke of Aveiro still needs to be settled. The next heir to press his claims was a descendant of Maria de Lencastre, daughter of the 3rd Duke and Duchess. Her husband, Manrique da Silva, Marquês de Gouveia, was head of the Portuguese household (Mordomo-mor); unlike most noblemen we’ve encountered so far he backed the Braganças in 1640 and even managed to keep his office as Mordomo-mor for the new king. His daughter Juliana took the name Lencastre, and became heir of her brother in 1686. She married into yet another grand Portuguese aristocratic clan, the Mascarenhas, counts of Santa Cruz. It was her grandson, José de Mascarenhas da Silva e Lencastre, 5th Marquês de Gouveia, who pressed his claims to the Duchy of Aveiro in 1745. He was a favourite of King João V, and his case was approved in 1749, making him the 8th Duke. He was also Mordomo-mor, a position of great power and prestige. Things started to go badly very quickly when the King died in 1750, and his successor, King José, began to suspect the powerful Duke of overly dangerous political ambitions—egged on by his powerful First Minister, the Marquês de Pombal (a member of the House of Carvalhal, by the way) who wanted to modernise the state by decreasing the independent power of the old aristocracy. In 1739 Mascarenhas had married the sister of another powerful nobleman, the Marquês de Tavora, and together their families’ power seemed quite daunting to the monarchy. When it was rumoured they were planning a marital alliance with the other great Portuguese ducal house, Cadaval, in 1758, the King acted, vigorously, and put both men, Tavora and Aveiro, on trial (the ‘Processo dos Távoras’), accusing them of trying to assassinate him. In January 1759, the last Duke of Aveiro was stripped of all his lands and titles, and executed with great brutality (beaten, then burned alive), outside the Palace of the Dukes of Aveiro in Belém.

beating the Duke of Aveiro
burning the Tavora family and the Duke of Aveiro

[you can see a colour version of this gruesome image at the Museum of Lisbon: http://acervo.museudelisboa.pt/ficha.aspx?id=14746&ns=216000&Lang=po&museu=2&c=explorar&f=explorar&IPR=7415 ]

This palace, a truly grand edifice next to the River Tagus a few steps away from the famous Jerónimos Monastery, was completely destroyed—as were most of the former Lencastre properties in Portugal—and the ground was salted so that nothing could flourish there ever again. A column was placed there to remind Lisbon residents of the treachery of the House of Aveiro, and the location was renamed the Beco do Chão Salgado (‘the alley of salted ground’).

the Column of Shame in Belém

The Duke’s widow, Leonor da Távora, was imprisoned in a nearby convent and soon died; their son, Martinho was imprisoned until 1777, and lived on, impoverished, until 1804. But this is not the end of the story, either of the Lencastres in Portugal or their link with the town of Abrantes.

One final branch remained of the children of Jorge de Lencastre, Duke of Coimbra. We’ve seen how his second son, Afonso, continued the tradition of bearing the title of Grand Commander of the Order of Santiago; a third son, Luis, was given a similar title of Grand Commander of the Order of Avis. He married, quite interestingly, Magdalena de Granada, the daughter of Juan, ‘Infante de Granada’, who was the son of Abu al-Ḥasan Ali, one of the last emirs of Granada (the Nasrids). Their descendants retained the title of Avis, married into all the grand Portuguese families with names we’ve so far encountered (Távora, Noronha, Silva, Mascarenhas…), and very much supported Habsburg rule in Portugal. Luis II was the intendant of the affairs of the King in Portugal, and his son, Francisco Luis, the Grand Master of the Household of Queen Mariana of Austria.

Luis de Lencastre, Grand Commander of the Order of Avis (whose cross can be seen on his sleeve and behind the coat of arms)

Francisco Luis de Lencastre acquired a grand palace on a hill between Lisbon and Belém, the Palace of Santos. This was built on a site where the Visigothic king Reccared I was supposedly converted to Christianity in 589. After the re-conquest of Lisbon in 1147, a church was built here for the monks of the Order of Santiago, and it later became site of a large monastery for women—several of whom we’ve already encountered above. The palace on this hill had been built as a royal residence in 1497, and was acquired in 1629 by the Lencastre family. It later was known as the Palace of Abrantes, and miraculously survived the earthquake of 1755. It was restored in the early 19th century (when it housed some minor royals and dowagers), and today serves as the Embassy of France.

The Palace of Santos, now the French Embassy in Portugal

How did the name Abrantes get re-attached to this line? Once Portuguese independence was restored in the mid-17th century, they avidly supported the Braganças, and several were appointed to prominent colonial positions, governors notably of Angola and Brazil. Two branches continue even today, the Counts of Lousão and the Counts of Lancastre (a title created in the mid-19th century). But the senior line passed through a daughter to the House of Távora in 1752. Isabel de Lencastre, Countess of Vila Nova de Portimão, was also heiress of her very interesting female cousins (see below), and ultimately heiress of Abrantes.

Isabel de Lencastre

Way back towards the start of this blog post, we learned that the House of Almeida were the counts of Abrantes (having been captains of its ancient fortress long before that). They died out in 1650, and their heiress married into the Rodrigues de Sá family, from the northern regions of Portugal. In 1718, they exchanged their marquisate of Fontes for a new marquisate erected on Abrantes. In 1727, the 1st Marquis of Abrantes was sent to Spain to negotiate for a bride for the Crown Prince. His daughter, Ana Maria Catarina, a widow already at age 22, became a member of her suite, and eventually her Camareira-Mor (First Lady of the Bedchamber) once she became Queen in 1750. In 1753, her position as premier woman of the court was recognised by the King who named her Duchess of Abrantes (for life only). This meant that for a time, there were two duchesses of Abrantes, one in Portugal and one in Spain (the consort of the Carvajal duke, though they probably used the title Linares). The Portuguese Duchess was known as a patron of the arts, and was depicted in a contemporary illustration as Athena, protector of painters.

allegory of Athena, protectress of painters

The Duchess of Abrantes gave up her post to her daughter, Maria Margarida, as well as her curious surname: de Lorena. As this blog began with curious Iberian borrowings of northern surnames, it is apt to conclude with a reference to the name ‘Lorraine’ (which is what drew my attention to these ladies in the first place when I was doing my doctoral studies on the House of Lorraine). Ana Maria Caterina took this name from her maternal grandmother, Princess Marie-Angélique de Lorraine-Harcourt, rather than the expected surname Rodrigues de Sá (or possibly Almeida). Her own daughter did the same, and when she took on the role as Camareira-Mor, was rewarded like her mother with the life title (in 1757) of Duchess of Abrantes. By then she too was a widow, her husband—who was also her mother’s brother—having died in 1756. Then it starts to get a bit crazy, so stay with me: her mother inherited her brother’s title and became 3rd Marquesa of Abrantes while her daughter became the 2nd Duchess. Then when the mother died, in 1761, the daughter became the 4th Marquesa as well. She remarried João da Bemposta, a natural son of the Infante Francisco of Portugal (a son of King Pedro II), which allowed him to be given the rank and privileges of a duke. They lived at Bemposta Palace in Lisbon, which had originally been built for Queen Catherine, widow of Charles II of Great Britain, when she returned to live in Lisbon. He was the Mordomo-mor of the King’s household, so together they dominated the male and female sides of the royal household. When they both died in 1780, the Dukedom of Abrantes (the Portuguese one) became extinct.

Bemposta Palace in Lisbon

The marquisate however, passed to her cousin, grandson of her aunt, Maria Sofia de Lorena, who had married … a Lencastre! Pedro de Lencastre, 5th Conde de Vila Nova de Portimão, was a descendant of the cadet branch, the commanders of the Order of Avis (as above). Their daughter, Isabel de Lencastre married Manuel Rafael de Távora, and generated the House of Lancastre e Távora, in the person of their son Pedro, who became 5th Marquês de Abrantes.

amrs of Lencastre e Tavora, marquises of Abrantes

A short while later, in 1807, Napoleon Bonaparte sent his general, Jean-Andoche Junot, to Portugal to punish it for not adhering to his Continental Blockade of Great Britain (thanks, Treaty of Windsor, 1386!). Junot landed his army on the coast and first established his headquarters at Abrantes before taking the city of Lisbon in early 1808. He was rewarded with one of the French Empire’s ‘victory titles’ as Duc d’Abrantès, but was chased out of Portugal by the end of the year. So much for victory. Nevertheless, his heirs bore the ducal title in France until the extinction of the male line in 1982.

the French press celebrating Junot’s victories in Portugal

Today therefore we have a Duke of Abrantes in Spain—the 15th, José Manuel de Zuleta y Alejandro, who works as head of the secretariat of the Queen of Spain—and a Marquis of Abrantes in Portugal—the 11th, José de Lancastre e Távora, son of a well-known author of books on genealogy and heraldry. In 1939, the pretender to the Portuguese throne, the Duke of Bragança, offered to revive the title of Duke of Aveiro, to a cousin of the Marquis of Abrantes, but he declined. The Spanish dukedom of Aveyro was revived in 1917 by King Alfonso XIII for Luis María de Carvajal y Melgarejo, Marqués de Puerto Seguro (a Spanish rendering of the Lencastre family’s ancient title of Porto-Seguro), one of his gentlemen of the chamber and a commander of the Spanish cavalry. He died in 1937, and was succeeded by his son and grandson as dukes of Aveyro, bearers of the name Lancaster in Madrid.

the Duke of Aveyro (1917)

–with special thanks for assistance from my generous Portuguese academic specialists, Dr Hélder Carvalhal and Dr Cristóvão Mata!!

(Images from Wikimedia Commons)

Dukes of Saxe-Meiningen

Where would you go if you wanted an incredible musical or theatrical experience in the later 19th century? One of Europe’s great music capitals—Vienna, Paris? The theatres in London? The capital cities of several small German principalities had either an orchestra or a theatre that punched well above its relative weight, like Weimar or Detmold, but also Meiningen, which excelled at both. The Court Orchestra and Court Theatre of the small duchy of Saxe-Meiningen were leading arts organisations, led by one of the 19th-century’s most cultured prince, Duke Georg II, known to contemporaries as the ‘Theatre Duke’. His Meiningen Ensemble influenced the history of theatre through its professionalism and dedication to authenticity; while the Meiningen Orchestra attracted the best composers in the German music world to premier their new works, notably the artistic giant Johannes Brahms.

Duke George II of Saxe-Meiningen. He even looks a bit like Brahms

As German principalities go, Saxe-Meiningen is pretty small, and mostly unknown to non-specialists in this historical period or region. But, as is often the case, the name does ring a bell with those interested in British royal history, as one of its daughters, Princess Adelaide, became a queen-consort of the United Kingdom, as wife of William IV (reigned 1830-37). This is her family’s story.

Queen Adelaide, by William Beechey

I have written in a previous blog post about the origins of the Duchy of Saxony and the House of Wettin (https://dukesandprinces.org/2020/07/02/dukes-of-saxe-coburg-and-saxe-gotha-families-of-two-british-consorts/ ). This branch splits off from those detailed there (Saxe-Gotha and Saxe-Coburg), after the section on Duke Ernst the Pious. When he died in 1675, his estates were divided amongst his numerous sons (by an agreement of 1680). The southernmost parts, including the town of Meiningen, went to one of the younger sons, Bernhard.

the town of Meiningen in the 17th century

The region around Meiningen, today the southwestern corner of the state of Thuringia, once formed the core of the powerful medieval county of Henneberg. Centred on the valley of the upper Werra river, this county lay at the crossroads between the ancient regions of Franconia and Saxony. But for a long time the Henneberg possessions didn’t include the town of Meiningen itself. The important trading town, founded at a key ford in the river in the 10th century, was for many centuries an exclave possession of the bishops of Würzburg, further to the south in Franconia. It was finally purchased by the counts of Henneberg in 1542, but only forty years later that dynasty became extinct, and most of its properties passed to the Wettins of Saxony. This heritage was commemorated in the coat of arms for the new duchy created for Bernhard in the 1680s, by the incorporation of the old Henneberg arms (literally, a chicken on a hill!). Their ancient castle, on a hill outside the town of Meiningen, was already by this point abandoned, and it remains a romantic ruin today.

the Henneberg today
an old border stone of the Duchy, with the coat of arms for Thuringia, Henneberg, Römhild, Meissen and Saxony overall

Instead of renovating Henneberg Castle, Duke Bernhard I (1649-1706) swiftly built a new ducal residence for himself and his family in Meiningen, the Elisabethenburg, named for his second wife, Elisabeth Eleonora of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel. The site had initially been occupied by a fortress built in the 11th century by the bishops of Würzburg, which was replaced in 1511 with a building in Renaissance style. This new building would be a grand Baroque edifice, more in line with the palace built by Bernhard’s father, Duke Ernst, in Gotha. It was given three wings which formed an E. A new ducal church of the Holy Trinity would serve as the family mausoleum. Today the Elisabethenburg palace is a museum, but also houses civic ceremonial spaces for the town and the Thuringian State Archives, as well as a music school and concert hall.

Elisabethenburg Palace

This concert hall was put to use right away, as Duke Bernhard established his own court orchestra—today it is considered one of the oldest still performing in Europe. In 1711, Bernhard’s son employed as court music director Johann Ludwig Bach, a cousin of the soon-to-be-more-famous Johann Sebastian. Over three centuries later, another Bach is at the helm (Philippe Bach), though he is Swiss and (I think) unrelated.

Duke Bernhard I

Like his father, Bernhard did not believe in strict primogeniture. But rather than subdivide the state further, he decreed in his will that his sons would have to rule together (which, as you might guess, rarely works very well). Duke Ernst Ludwig I, the eldest, soon pressured his two younger brothers to let him rule on his own, but his reign was relatively short, and when he died in 1724, his brothers were able to re-assert their authority as uncle-regents for his young sons. First reigned the child Ernst Ludwig II (1709-1729), and then Karl Friedrich (1712-1743), who didn’t leave much of a mark. Uncle Friedrich Wilhelm survived his nephew and reigned as senior duke from 1743 to 1746, finally leaving the youngest brother, Anton Ulrich to rule on his own.

Duke Anton Ulrich

Duke Anton Ulrich (1687-1763), not expecting to become the head of the family, had travelled abroad and married in secret in the Netherlands in 1711, a woman of unequal rank, Philippine Caesar (one of his sister’s ladies-in-waiting). After she died in 1744—and following the death of his nephew—the Emperor decreed that their many children were unable to succeed to the duchy. So Anton Ulrich married again and produced even more children, this time of the correct rank. Still, he neglected Meiningen and preferred to live in Frankfurt.

Anton Ulrich built a country house for himself, in the northern part of the duchy, in the hills separating Meiningen from the other Wettin duchies (Eisenach, Gotha, Weimar). Altenstein had (as its name suggests) long been the site of an old stone fortress, but it was destroyed by a fire in 1733, and the young duke decided to rebuild it with more comfort and stylistic whimsy. His son, Georg I would re-design the building and its setting around 1800, in a more English country gardens style. This was then expanded and again re-designed in 1846 for a visit by the Dowager Queen Adelaide—again along the lines of English landscape design. The house itself was similarly redesigned in 1888-89 by Georg II, now as a late Tudor style country manor. Altenstein Castle remained the ducal summer residence until the fall of the German monarchies in 1918, and thereafter the main residence for the dynasty once the Elisabethenburg had been ceded to the state. In about 1940, it too was sold to the state. After the war it became a convalescent home for craftsmen, and in 1979 a monument to the history of landscape and garden design. A bad fire in 1982 gutted the interior, and it was only partly restored by the East German authorities. As part of the Thuringian State Castle and Gardens Foundation since 1995, it has been slowly and steadily restored since then.

Altenstein in a postcard from 1900

When Duke Anton Ulrich died in 1763, he was succeeded by his eldest son from the second marriage, Karl Wilhelm, with his mother, Princess Charlotte Amelia of Hesse-Philippsthal, as regent. The young duke died only a few years after his emancipation, in 1782, and was succeeded by his brother, Georg I.

Duke Georg I

Duke Georg I (1761-1803) was considered by his contemporaries to be one of the best examples of a reforming Enlightenment prince. In his twenty-year reign he built schools and healthcare facilities for the poor, opened the ducal library to the public, established a forestry academy, and introduced a number of reformed social policies (for example abolishing the practice of ‘penance’ for unwed mothers). He even wrote philosophy essays under a pen name. Duke Georg established an English Garden just north of the centre of Meiningen shortly after his accession. Unlike many of his princely contemporaries, he did not become involved in the revolutionary wars of the 1790s, and his state was left unmolested by Napoleon’s armies. When he died in 1803 he left three very young children, again under the watchful eye of their mother, Princess Luise Eleonore of Hohenlohe-Langenburg. The eldest of these was Princess Adelheid, the future queen-consort, then Princess Ida (who became a princess of Saxe-Weimar), and finally Bernhard II.

The children had been raised in one of the most liberal states in Germany, which affected their later lives. Adelaide (to use her English name) was chosen to marry the younger brother of the Prince Regent, William, Duke of Clarence, in 1818 when the race was on to produce a Hanoverian heir—in fact it was a double wedding between the dukes of Clarence and Kent and their Saxon brides, Adelaide of Saxe-Meiningen and Victoria of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld. Clarence was 27 years older than his bride, and already had ten children (the FitzClarence family) by his mistress Dorothea Jordan. His naval career already long over by 1818, he and Adelaide settled in Hanover for a time (where it was significantly cheaper to run a royal household), then resided in Clarence House in London and Bushy House near Hampton Court once she started giving birth to potential heirs to the throne. Unfortunately all of these were either miscarriages, stillbirths or soon died, and once the Duke of Clarence succeeded as King William IV in 1830, it was assumed the royal couple would have no more children. Queen Adelaide was popular with the British public, who appreciated her piety, modesty and great charity. The new city of Adelaide in Australia was named for her in 1836. She survived her husband by over a decade, enjoyed good relations with her niece the new queen, Victoria, and died at Bentley Priory in Middlesex in 1849.

Adelaide as Queen of the United Kingdom

Adelaide’s brother Duke Bernhard II reached his majority in 1821. His estates were augmented a few years later when the various pieces of the Wettin duchies were re-distributed by family pact in 1825: he received the duchy of Saxe-Hildburghausen and the Saalfeld parts of the duchy of Saxe-Coburg. The new state was about 2,500 square kilometres (roughly forming a thin crescent shape), with about 150,000 people in the 1830s. It remained mostly rural, though the town of Meiningen developed as a regional banking hub.

Saxe-Meiningen after 1825 (with Meiningen as a red dot) alongside the other Saxon duchies of Thuringia in grey

Amongst the new properties that accrued with these new domains were the town palaces of Hildburghausen and Saalfeld. The ducal residence in Hildburghausen was built in 1686 by its first duke, but was mostly abandoned as a residence by the new ruling house after 1825 and used instead as a garrison for troops; it was completely destroyed in World War II. The residence in Saalfeld was a much more impressive palace (also built at the end of the 17th century), but had long before been given to the town as its administrative buildings by previous dukes, as early as the 1730s, since Coburg served as their residence. A much more significant addition to Saxe-Meiningen was the mighty fortress of Heldburg. Veste Heldburg sits atop a volcanic plug and dominates a small region called the Heldburger Land, which gave its name to the town and duchy of Hildburghausen. Its rulers had transformed a medieval castle into a Renaissance schloss in the 16th century. At first ignored by its new owners from Meiningen, in the 1870s Heldburg was restored and renovated by Duke Georg II and his wife, who played up its more romantic side. After the fall of the German monarchies in 1918, Heldburg remained the property of the former ruling dynasty, and became the family home of some of its younger members in the 1920s and 30s, as well as a new family burial site. It was confiscated by the East German government after the Second World War, and used for a time as a garrison for Soviet troops, situated as it was so close to the border with West Germany. It then became a children’s home until a bad fire in 1982 gutted much of the interior. In 1995, it became part of the Foundation for Thuringian Castles and Gardens, and since 2016 has housed a new museum dedicated to the history of German castles.

Veste Heldburg

Bernhard II did not just inherit older residences, he also built several new ones. In 1823 he built a palace in Meiningen for his mother, the now retired regent, Duchess Luise Eleonore. This gracious neo-classical building was known as the ‘widow’s palace’, and served as an anchor for the new district being developed just north of the old town, at the entrance to the Englischer Garten. It was later enlarged and remodelled and rebranded as the ‘prince’s palace’ once Bernhard moved here himself with his wife after abdicating his throne in 1866. It was later the residence of the hereditary prince, and is now known as the Großes Palais, to distinguish it from the nearby Kleines Palais, built about the same time, as a summer residence for the Duke. This small house, also known at times as the ‘princess’s palace’, was also used to host prominent guests visiting Meiningen, like Brahms. Both the large and small palaces were retained as private property by the family after 1918, but were confiscated in 1945. Today the grand palace houses some civic and medical offices, while the small palace is a bank.

Großes Palais
Kleines Palais

Finally, Bernhard II should be remembered as the builder of Landsberg Castle, on a small hill just north of the city, overlooking the Werra valley. Bernhard had travelled to England to visit his sister the Queen in the early 1830s, and in 1836 hired architects (both local and English) to make for himself a typically English neo-gothic romantic country house. Its style resembled a crenelated medieval castle (and indeed incorporated the ruins of a tower from a previous genuine medieval castle on the site), and its interiors included a rustic great hall with large-scale murals depicting Wettin and Saxon history. Landsberg was sold by the dynasty in the 1920s, and it passed through several hands before being opened by the GDR as a luxury hotel in the 1970s. Briefly repurchased by a member of the former ruling dynasty in the ‘90s (still to be run as a hotel), then acquired for a time by the Meiningen Architectural Monuments Foundation, it is now in an uncertain position, between being re-opened again as a luxury hotel or permanently opened as a heritage site by the city of Meiningen or the state of Thuringia.

Landsberg Castle

Duke Bernhard II thus kept himself busy with building projects, and was fairly moderate politically in this time of nationalist tumult in Germany between the 1840s and ‘60s. But he valued the freedom of smaller states like his own against the rising dominance of Prussia, and backed the wrong horse when Austria challenged this dominance in 1866, being forced to abdicate in his son’s favour following Austria’s defeat.

Duke Bernhard II

The new duke, Georg II (1826-1914) was a prince much more in tune with the new romantic, nationalistic age, and supported Prussia in 1866. He had also been previously attached by marriage to the Prussian royal family, through his first wife, Charlotte of Prussia, niece of King Wilhelm I—though she had died in 1855. Georg was rewarded for his loyalty in the war of 1866 not just with his father’s throne, but the rank of lieutenant-general in the Prussian army, with which he served in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71. At this time, he was married to a niece of Queen Victoria, Princess Feodora of Hohenlohe-Langenburg (daughter of Victoria’s half-sister). But she too died, in 1872.

Duke Georg II

In 1873, Georg II married an actress, Ellen Franz, who was created Baroness von Heldburg by the Kaiser, though he was much against the match (as was the Duke’s father and most of the local court—they resigned, refused to salute her, etc). But the people of Meiningen loved her, and the couple became renowned across Europe for their passion for theatre and the arts. Together they revived the court theatre, and created the Meiningen Ensemble, which championed a new style of realism: authentic sets and costumes, historical accuracy, and an overall ‘directorial vision’, something new in the history of theatre. The Duke was not just a distant patron: he designed much of these sets and directed scenes himself, earning his nickname of ‘Theatre Duke’.

Ellen Franz, Baroness von Heldburg

Georg, Ellen and their Ensemble travelled all over Europe in the 1870s-80s. When the original court theatre from the 1830s burned down in 1908, the Duke rebuilt it on a monumental scale, matching the neoclassical style he had been supporting in the town of Meiningen’s redevelopment since the 1870s.

The Meiningen Theatre
Bernhardstrasse’s neoclassical strand

Duke Georg II also revived the Court Orchestra, with a similar attention to rigorous professionalization. A notable benchmark was hiring in 1880 the most famous conductor in Germany of the era, Hans von Bülow, himself from an ancient noble house. Von Bülow championed in particular the work of Johannes Brahms, whose mighty 4th Symphony was premiered here in 1885, and that of up-coming new talents like Richard Strauss, who was employed as an assistant conductor for a short time. A later leader of this orchestra was the composer Max Reger, whose archive is still housed in Meiningen. The Duke’s daughter, Princess Maria Elisabeth became herself an admired musician and composer, having been given piano lessons by Brahms himself, and was later a patron of young artists in the region.

the Meiningen Court Orchestra with Hans von Bülow conducting

As a particular cruelty, Duke Georg II became deaf later in life, and he retired from public affairs. He died on the eve of World War I in June 1914. All three of his sons, Bernhard, Ernst and Friedrich had served in the Imperial armies in the years leading up to the war, but only the youngest was still in active service in 1914—Prince Friedrich was given a command in the invasion of Belgium and was killed on August 23, one of the first casualties of the war. His own second son, Prince Ernst, was killed only a few days later.

The new duke, Bernhard III, having been a general before his retirement in 1913, was disappointed at not being appointed to high command in 1914 (especially as he was both cousin and brother-in-law to the Kaiser). In 1878 he had married Princess Charlotte of Prussia, daughter of Crown Prince Friedrich and Victoria of Great Britain. Severed from his friendly English relations by the war, and disappointed by his German relations as well, the Duke withdrew from society and politics even before he abdicated the throne in November 1918, and lived quietly at Schloss Altenstein until his death in 1928.

Hereditary Prince Bernhard and Princess Charlotte of Prussia
Duke Bernhard III

The duchy of Saxe-Meiningen was briefly the ‘Free State’ of Saxony-Meiningen, 1918-20, then was incorporated into the new state of Thuringia. As seen above, some of the properties of the former ruling family were maintained as private property. Bernhard III had only a daughter, so headship of the house passed to his brother Ernst, who was also living in Altenstein. He had married morganatically, the daughter of a painter and a poet, so none of his children (known as the barons and baronesses von Saalfeld) were eligible to succeed as head of the house when he died in 1941.

Duke Ernst

Ernst’s nephew (Prince Friedrich’s son), Georg (III), lived at Veste Heldburg, with his wife and two children (another son, Anton, had been killed in the first year of the war). Georg had studied law and served as a district judge for a time in the 1920s. In the 1930s he became a member of the Nazi Party, so when the Soviet Army invaded in 1945, the castle was seized and his family fled, though he himself was captured, and died in a Prisoner of War camp in northern Russia a year later.

Duke Georg III as a young man

Duke Georg’s son Friedrich renounced the succession in 1946 and became a monk (their mother had raised the children as Catholics). His sister, Princess Regina, married one of the most famous royal exiles of the era, Archduke Otto von Habsburg, at a ceremony in Nancy (Lorraine, France) in 1951. Regina and Otto had met when she was working in a care home for Hungarian refugees after the war. They had seven children and over twenty grandchildren by the time she died in 2010.

Princess Regina and Archduke Otto von Habsburg

Meanwhile, the succession as head of the family passed to Regina’s uncle Bernhard (IV), who lived in a castle in Austria, Pitzelstätten, near Klagenfurt in Carinthia. Bernhard and his wife Margot made headlines as far away as America in 1933, when they were arrested by the Austrian government for plotting with Nazi authorities in Germany. He was held in prison for several weeks, then they escaped to Italy.

Duke Bernhard IV
Pitzelstätten Castle

After the war, Bernhard divorced his first wife, which had been an ‘unequal’ marriage, and re-married someone deemed of more appropriate rank. When he died in 1984, the headship of the family thus skipped his elder son from the first marriage, Friedrich Ernst (who was, interestingly, briefly engaged in the early 1960s to a dear friend of my family from Cologne), and passed instead to the younger son, Konrad (b. 1952) who is the current head of the Meiningen family. Konrad is unmarried and has no children, so it is thought he will formally adopt his half-brother’s son (who has impeccable princely lineage anyway, as his mother is a Saxe-Coburg), Prince Friedrich Constantin (b. 1980).

Konrad of Saxe-Meiningen

In the line-up of currently extant branches of the ancient princely house of Wettin, the House of Meiningen is second in rank, behind Weimar and before Coburg (which includes the royal families of Belgium and Great Britain). The age of the Ruritanian principalities is long over, but Saxe-Meiningen has left behind a cherished legacy of support for the performing arts and monuments to 19th-century architectural and landscape design of which it can be proud.

(images from Wikimedia Commons)

Princes of Powys Fadog and Maelor

Until very recently I had never heard of Maelor, despite it being just over an hour’s drive from my home in Manchester. I’ve now become slightly obsessed with its curious history, as an exclave of Welshness jutting into the English countryside. For a small geographical space, it is complex, with two roughly equal parts: ‘Saxon’ Maelor and ‘Welsh’ Maelor, divided by the river Dee. Yet despite being on the English side of the Dee, the traditional border between England and North Wales, Saxon (or Saesneg) Maelor has only quite briefly been formally part of England. Maelor was not a principality itself, just a key component of the principality of Powys Fadog, the northern half of the ancient kingdom of Powys.

High above the Dee Valley, near Llangollen, with the silhouette of the ancient capital of Powys Fadog, Dinas Brân

I wasn’t sure whether to include the Welsh princes in my blog site, since they are often considered to be royalty, not dukes and princes (which is always a blurred division anyway). But although earlier rulers of medieval Wales used the term king (brenin or ri), after the division of Powys in 1160 into smaller subdivisions, its rulers preferred to use the word tywysog (and in Latin princeps), and their principality a tywysogaeth, in line with the other Welsh territorial lords, perhaps to distance themselves from the challenges and defeats of the previous generation. And since there are no dukedoms based in Wales (except the anomaly of the Herberts—see my previous post on that family), I wanted to be able to explore that country on my site too, especially as a place I love to visit on days out.

The various Welsh principalities have histories that stretch back into the Iron Age, long before the Romans arrived on Britannia’s shores. A Welsh united kingdom was attempted several times after the Romans left in the 5th century, but was always plagued with disunity and internal dissension (like most regions of Europe in this era, to be fair). Powys emerged as an independent kingdom or principality in the 6th century. It is thought the name came from pagus, the Latin word for ‘countryside’—this countryside had been organised by the Romans into a province for those living in the rich lands of the foothills east of the Cambrian Mountains, the Cornovii. They built a new capital called Viroconium Cornoviorum, an important Roman centre located southeast of the town of Shrewsbury in Shropshire (today known as Wroxeter). Viroconium took its name from the nearby older fortified hill settlement of the Wrekin—still today one of the most arresting sights of this part of the world—a rock jutting up right in the middle of a plain. In Welsh Viroconium became known as Caerwrygion (or Caer Guricon). They also established a capital at Pengwern, which is thought to be modern Shrewsbury, but no one is certain.

The Wrekin

Just to the north, Maelor emerges to play a part in this early history, with one of the chief religious centres in the region being built at Bangor-on-Dee in about 560. Bangor was the scene of one of the more brutal massacres of early medieval history, when a pagan Northumbrian king, Æthelfrith, attacked the king of Powys, Selyf ap Cynan or Selyf ‘Sarffgadau’ (‘battle serpent’), in about 615, at what is called the Battle of Chester, though it took place several miles to the south, in Bangor. The King was killed, as were hundreds of monks (or even more than a thousand, if we believe Bede)—and in particular, the Northumbrian king is said to have ordered the attack on the praying monks before starting the battle against the Welsh soldiers. We don’t know exactly where the monastery at Bangor was, but its memory was evoked in poetry and song many centuries later: Walter Scott wrote ‘The Monks of Bangor’s March’, which was then set to music by none other than Ludwig van Beethoven in about 1810. As strange coincidences go, I recorded this piece with a men’s choir in Washington DC back in the ‘90s, though I’m sure I had no idea that it didn’t refer to the more famous Bangor on the northwest coast of Wales, and probably assumed it had something to do with the well-known battles of Edward I in north Wales (and I don’t even think it registered that it was a tune by Beethoven). This is the last verse:

Bangor! o’er the murder wail!

Long thy ruins told the tale,

Shattered towers and broken arch

Long recalled the woful march:

On thy shrine no tapers burn,

Never shall thy priests return;

The pilgrim sighs and sings for thee,

O miserere, Domine!

[Believe it or not, this ancient recording of mine is on YouTube! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcwfZmtxHHU ]

the banks of the Dee at Bangor

Back in the 7th century, as Saxon settlements began to encroach further and further into the northwest of Britain, the Welsh principality of Powys shifted its centre to the more hilly (and defensible) lands to the west and incorporated the lands of the Ordovices, notably making their ancient hill fortress in the deep valley of the Dee as it cuts through the mountains at Llagollen, Dinas Brân, as one of their capitals (see below). Another fortified capital was Mathrafal, near the town of Welshpool (the later capital of southern Powys). Near Mathrafal, in Meifod, a church was built to honour one of the members of the dynasty who became a saint, Tysilio (d. 640). This became the dynastic mausoleum.

St. Tysilio Church

The dynasty was known as the Gwerthrynion, who claimed descent from the semi-legendary Vortigern, king of the Britons, and from a daughter of Roman Emperor Magnus Maximus (proclaimed in 383 while in Britain). A mid-9th-century stone pillar, the Pillar of Eliseg, near Llangollen, displays a carved royal line of descent from this union (using the Welsh spelling ‘Guarthigern’, from which they drew their dynastic name) to Prince Eliseg.

the Pillar of Eliseg

‘Eliseg’ is a corruption of Elisedd ap Gwylog (d. c755), considered the re-founder of the medieval kingdom of Powys. He retook the lands from the Saxons and re-established Welsh rule in the area. But very little is known about him. Lands around Caerwrygion and Pengwern were incorporated into the Kingdom of Mercia and gradually formed the English county of Shropshire. This is the era of Offa’s Dyke, built in the late 8th century to divide Mercia from Powys.

The last of this original house, King Cyngen, died in 855. His sister has married the King of Gwynedd, the powerful kingdom to the west, and for a time the two kingdoms were ruled together by their son, Rhodri the Great. Over the next two centuries, Powys and Gwynedd were ruled together then separately, again and again, by various members of the House of Gwynedd. Almost all of Wales was joined together under the leadership of Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, but broke apart again on his death in 1063, just when unity was needed following the Norman Conquest. Instead, Powys went separately to Gruffydd’s maternal half-brother, Bleddyn ap Cynfyn (supposedly of the house of Dinefwr, a cadet branch of the House of Gwynedd who ruled in South Wales), who founded a new dynasty for Powys that took its name from the castle at Mathrafal.

the remains of the castle mound at Mathrafal

Norman lords swiftly took over parts of this border territory, and built mighty castles, notably Montgomery (named after its builder’s homeland in Normandy). By 1090, they had taken over much of the region. But in 1096, Bleddyn’s sons unified and drove them back. Over the next half-century, the joint rule of these sons and grandsons struggled to find its place between an often aggressive Gwynedd, the Norman marcher lords, and the Crown of England. By about 1100, the lords of Powys were vassals of the earl of Shrewsbury. A few years later, by 1116, the principality was centralised once more under the control of Prince Maredudd. Other branches of the dynasty faded into the local gentry—notably the lords of Nannau (in Merioneth to the west of Powys), and continuing as Welsh families today with surnames Nanney and Vaughan.

Prince Maredudd’s son Madog re-asserted some of the dynasty’s power in the region through an alliance with King Henry II against Gwynedd. By the 1140s he’d added the Norman baronies of Oswestry and Whittington (in Shropshire) to his territory. But when he died in 1160, the old practice of dividing the realm between sons once more prevailed, and Powys was divided into five pieces, though eventually these were consolidated into two: Owain received the lands to the south of the Rhaeadr river, while Gruffydd Maelor received the lands to the north. The southern principality eventually took the name of Powys Wenwynwyn; while the northern principality was Powys Fadog.

The Principality of Powys Fadog included initially the lands of Maelor and the lordship of Iâl (Yale), to the west, in the foothills of the Clwyd mountains. The first prince later added Nanheudwy, the deep dales of the river Dee as it passes through the mountains, and Cynllaith, the river valley a bit further to the south. The name Maelor in fact comes from mael (another word for ‘prince’) and llawr (‘land of’). It had been separated from Wales since the construction of Offa’s Dyke, but was reclaimed in the earlier part of this century.

Prince Gruffydd Maelor I died in 1191, and his sons Madog and Owain took over as joint rulers (though the younger son died soon after). It may be that the name of the Principality of Powys Fadog comes from the name of the elder son (Welsh gender rules changing the M to an F). His mother was Princess Angharad of Gwynedd so he maintained good relations with the more powerful Welsh kingdom to the northwest. By 1200, however, Prince Madog was in the pay of King John. At about this time, he founded the Abbey of Valle Crucis, outside Llangollen and thus not far from his fortress capital of Dinas Brân. Dinas Brân—known commonly in English as ‘Crow Castle’, probably as a mistranslation of ‘the fortress of Bran’ a local chieftain (or even simply ‘the fortress on the hill’, bryn)—had been a hill fortress of the Ordovices since long before the arrival of the Romans, and re-fortified with a wooden palisade by earlier kings of Powys. A stone castle was built in the 1260s by Madog’s heirs.

Dinas Brân painted in the 19th century by Richard Wilson
Dinas Brân today

To the west, further up the valley, was the lordship of Glyndyfrdwy in the region Edeirnion. It is spelled many ways, including Glyn Dyfrdwy, which makes its meaning clearer, the glen of the river Dee (afon Dyfrdwy). There was a castle here, built by the Normans in the 12th century to command the upper Dee Valley, but it was in Welsh hands by the 13th century. Today it is just a mound, the castle having been pulled down following Owain Glyndŵr’s rebellion (see below).

The Glen of the Dee, Glyndyfrdwy

Valle Crucis was a Cistercian foundation, like many in the deep valleys of Wales (most famously, Tintern). It took its name from Croes Elisedd, Eliseg’s Cross noted above, and became the family mausoleum for this branch of the Mathrafal Dynasty. At its height, it housed up to 60 monks and servants, and became known as a favoured residence of Welsh poets. The Abbey was dissolved in the 1530s, and today it is a ruin.

Valle Crucis

Prince Madog ap Gruffydd switched sides in 1215, abandoning King John to support his cousin Llywelyn ap Iorwerth of Gwynedd. He died in 1236 and was succeeded by his five sons: Gruffydd Maelor II, Gruffydd Iâl, Maredudd, Hawel and Madog Fychan. It seems the latter was the most active in this period, leading Welsh raids on English possessions in the 1240s-50s. In contrast, the eldest, Gruffydd Maelor II, married one of them: Emma de Audley, daughter of an English baron who served as sheriff of neighbouring Shropshire.

In the next generation, the sons of Gruffydd Maelor II (d. 1269) fought, then divided the principality: Madog II ruled Maelor; Gruffydd Fychan ruled Iâl and Glyndyfrdwy; while Llywelyn and Owain ruled Cynllaith and Nanheudwy. Madog II allied with the Prince of Gwynedd and became his vassal by the Treaty of Montgomery (1267) which aimed to re-unite the Welsh principalities under one leader, and to establish peace with King Henry III at the same time. This peace was broken in 1277 and Madog was killed in an English invasion.

the arms of Powys Fadog. Other versions include the black lion on red and white stripes (see below)

His brother Prince Gruffydd Fychan (fychan means ‘of the same name’, like ‘junior’, rather than saying ‘Gruffydd ap Gruffydd’—it is the origin of the surname Vaughan) soon made peace with the English, and by the Treaty of Aberconwy was released from any fealty to Gwynedd. Yet he fought alongside Gwynedd’s prince, Llywelyn (later called ‘Llywelyn the Last’) again in 1282. With Prince Llywelyn’s defeat and death in December of that year, his ally the Prince of Powys Fadog was defeated too and his lands taken over by the English Crown. They were then re-granted to him as fiefs, though some parts were given to English marcher lords, like Roger Mortimer who founded a new castle and barony on the river Ceiriog (taking an Anglicised spelling, Chirk). The castle at Dinas Brân was dismantled, and was replaced in its role of defending the Middle Dee valley by a new English castle at Holt, northeast of Wrexham, by John de Warenne, earl of Surrey.

Chirk Castle

In the new order after 1282, Maelor was divided—the names we encountered at the start of this post now appear, with Maelor Saesneg, east of the Dee, added to English Crownlands as an exclave of the newly developed Flintshire (part of the new Principality of Wales); and Maelor Gymraeg (‘Welsh Maelor’), west of the river, becoming part of the marcher lordship of Bromfield and Yale, granted to the Earl of Surrey. Both parts remained Welsh in language and culture—the eastern parts (centred on Bangor) were called ‘English’ mostly because they became part of the diocese of Chester, while the western part (centred on the town of Wrexham, or Wrecsam in Welsh) was part of the diocese of St. Asaph. The barony of Bromfield passed to the Fitzalans of Arundel in 1347, who became extinct in 1415 and their lands divided between female heirs. In the reorganisation of the administration of Wales by Henry VIII in 1536, Welsh Maelor was added to the county of Denbighshire. English Maelor was formally attached to Cheshire in 1397 (though it remained personal property of the Crown) until 1536 when it was again attached to Flintshire. In 1974, both Maelors were joined together to form the district of ‘Wrexham Maelor’ within the new County of Clywd. But in 1996, the area was re-shuffled again, and today there is an independent ‘County Borough’ of Wrexham which includes the two Maelors plus some lands to the southwest, the Ceiriog Valley and the Berwyn Hills—in other words, much of the old Powys Fadog.

the two Powys principalities. ‘English Maelor’ is shown here as the detached piece of Flintshire, with ‘Welsh Maelor’ in purple as part of Denbighshire.

The southern principality, Powys Wenwynwyn, also surrendered to Edward I in 1283, and was re-granted as a barony—the ruling family took on a new surname, ‘de la Pole’ (from Welshpool, the capital). The barony passed by marriage to the Charleton family in 1309, and then in 1421 to the Greys, who were created Baron Grey of Powis in 1481. In 1535, feudal rights were abolished, and the lands of the former principality were incorporated into Montgomeryshire. In 1587 the barony was sold to the Herberts (cousins) and it followed the path of that family (see Herberts of Powis).

After 1282, both former ruling dynasties of Powys were considered uchelwyr, ordinary nobles descended from previously royal dynasties. The former Prince Guffydd Fychan’s son, Madog Crypl (aka Madog III) was a child when he succeeded his father in 1289, so his lands were administered by King Edward’s men. He eventually reclaimed the lordship of Glyndyfrdwy and half of Cynllaith (called ‘Cynllaith Owain’), with a castle at Sycharth, an old motte and bailey built by the Normans in the late 11th century.

modern signage at Castle Sycharth

Madog Crypl died in 1304 or 1306 and was succeeded by his son Gruffydd of Rhuddallt (a manor near Glyndyfrdwy), who was the ward, then son-in-law, of Baron Le Strange of Knockyn. He added some lands to the east in Shropshire, notably the castle of Ellesmere, in 1332, then died in 1343. His son, Gruffydd Fychan II married a sister of Marged ferch Tomos, the wife of Tudur ap Goronwy, whose grandson Owen Tudor would found a very famous new royal dynasty.

Before this great glory for Wales, however, lay one last burst of Welsh independence, led by a prince of the House of Powys. Gruffydd Fychan II’s sons Owain and Tudur, born at Sycharth Castle, were each given a family lordship in the region of Edeirnion: Owain at Glyndyfrdwy and Tudur at Gwyddelwern (further up the valley, north of the town of Corwen). English and French sources give them the surname ‘de Glendore’ or ‘Glendower’, but modern Welsh spells it Glyndŵr.

Owain’s Mound in Glyndyfrdwy

In 1400, Owain, who had served in English armies for twenty years (notably in the Scottish borders), began a rebellion against English rule in Wales, with his brother as a commander, and support given by Edmund Mortimer and Henry Percy (they drew up a plan to split England and Wales into three pieces when victorious). Joining them in this fight were their maternal cousins, the sons of Tudur ap Goronwy (who hailed from Gwynedd, on the isle of Anglesey). France and Scotland supported the rebellion as well, though not very well. Owain was crowned Prince of Wales in 1404, and convened an all-Welsh parliament at Machynlleth (near the coast, where the ancient kingdoms of Gwynedd, Powys and Ceredigion come together). His brother Tudur was killed in May 1405 at the battle of Pwll Melyn, near Usk in Monmouthshire (South Wales), and two years later, in 1407, the tide turned against the Welsh and their allies. Wales was mostly re-occupied and by 1409 a last stand was made at Harlech Castle. Owain Glyndŵr escaped and lead guerrilla warfare for another three years or so, though his exact date of death is unknown.

A modern pub in Glyndyfrdwy

The last members of the House of Powys Fadog were the sons of Owain Glyndŵr. The elder, Gruffydd, was captured in 1405 at Pwll Melyn, and was eventually taken to the Tower of London, where he died in about 1412. The younger, Maredudd, accepted an English pardon, and (it seems, but is uncertain) served Henry V in France in 1422, then vanished from history. His sister Alys inherited the lands in Glyndyfrdwy and Cynllaith Owain, and the claims to the title of Hereditary Tywysog of Powys Fadog (if they were ever used—maybe in secret?), and transmitted them to her children by Sir John Scudamore, sheriff of Herefordshire. Some of their modern descendants in South Wales, the Skidmores, claim to know where Owain Glyndŵr’s burial is, though it remains a closely guarded family secret! It is hoped that he will rise again, with Arthur, and reclaim the island of Britannia once more for its native people. Which side of the Saesneg / Gymraeg border would you want to be on?

a modern monument in Corwen

(a big thank you to my colleague Dr Kathryn Hurlock for giving this the once over to make sure I didn’t commit any atrocious gaffs in my attempts at understanding the Welsh language!)