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What is a prince? What is a duke?

When reading about someone who is the prince of this or the duchess of that, most people immediately conjure up an image of someone who is very grand, an elite part of the old aristocracy of Europe. But I am very often struck by how frequently historians, including professional academic historians, regularly use noble titles indiscriminately and interchangeably, and when asked to clarify whether the person being referred to is a count or a duke or a baron they say ‘it’s all the same, right?’ This short introductory piece will explain how they are not the same, and will focus on the top two titles in the system of noble titles: the prince and the duke.

The aristocracies of Europe have a wide range of variations in their composition, nomenclatures and customs, but there are also certain similarities across the Continent—for example, most have some form of the titles ‘prince’ or ‘duke’, both deriving from Latin words for command or leadership. There are exceptions, like in Germanic and Slavic languages, which use non Latin-based words, but with similar meanings. Most European countries went through a period of monarchy at some point in their history, some briefly while others maintain it still, and all of these monarchies created a system of hereditary nobility to assist them at first in defending the country and later in governing as well. The base-level nobles, the vast majority, were called lords or barons, but those who were given greater responsibilities, usually in a particular region, were created ‘counts’ (earls in English) or viscounts (‘vice-counts’), from the Latin word for companion (comes). This system emerged about the time Europe was reorganising itself under the Carolingians (the family of Charlemagne) in the 9th and 10th centuries. Higher up the hierarchy still, members of the ruling dynasties were called ‘prince’ (from princeps, the ‘first one’), which indicated they shared some of the authority of the head of their family, the monarch. Princely status from its earliest emergence was therefore something that is given to all members of a ruling family, by right of birth, not merit or achievement. This issue came up again just this year, when people asked whether Prince Harry, the Duke of Sussex, could have his status as prince removed. Back in the age of the Carolingians, some princes were given larger territories to govern, as autonomous rulers, with the title ‘duke’ (from dux, or ‘leader’). Often these leaders were supplied by the tribal chiefs of the ethnic groups being incorporated into the wider Imperial whole, like the dukes of the Saxons or the Bavarians east of the Rhine, or the dukes of the Gascons in southwestern France. The German term for duke is herzog, loosely from heer and ziehen, ‘puller’ or leader of the fighting men. In Slavic languages a similar term is voivode, ‘war leader’.

For much of their history, the titles prince and duke were restricted to royalty or semi-royalty only. As Europe’s kingdom’s evolved into more centralised territorial bodies, dukedoms were still given to younger sons to rule as ‘junior kings’ in what are called apanage territories, and these could be ruled with a certain degree of autonomy, but ultimately remained part of the kingdom as a whole. Well known examples in France include the duchies of Anjou, Orléans or Burgundy, or in England the dukedoms of Cornwall, Lancaster and York, but similar apanages existed in most countries: the duchy of Styria for junior Habsburgs in Austria, the duchy of Coimbra in Portugal, the duchies of Halland and Södermanland in Sweden, and so on. This predominance of royal-only dukedoms started to shift in the fifteenth century, as certain magnate families established so much power they had to be recognised as power-sharers in their own right within the kingdom. There were non-royal dukes in Germany and Italy from the 13th and 14th centuries (Brunswick, 1235; Mecklenburg, 1348; Milan, 1395), and these maintained such a degree of autonomous authority that we might call them semi-royal anyway. The same is true in Russia and Poland, where the word kniaz can be translated as either duke or prince (and seems to be a derivative of the early Germanic word for king). But the western monarchies of France, Spain and England did not have their first non-royal dukes until much later.

Early French non-royal dukedoms were given to powerful semi-autonomous magnates such as the Count of Armagnac (Duke of Nemours, 1461), important Italian allies (Valentinois for Cesare Borgia, 1499; Nemours for the Medici, 1515), then for representatives of foreign dynasties settling in France (Cleves, Lorraine, Savoy), and finally for some ‘native’ French noble families (Gouffier, Brosse, Montmorency) by the middle of the sixteenth century who had strong connections, personal or by marriage, with the royal family. Across the Channel, for the Plantagenets, aside from the early anomaly of the ‘duke of Ireland’ (Robert de Vere, 1386, for life only), the first non-royal dukedoms were created for nobles with close blood relations with the royal family: Norfolk for Thomas de Mowbray, 1397; Buckingham for Humphrey de Stafford, 1444; Suffolk for William de la Pole, 1448. Only a handful were created in the Tudor era (restoring the Howards, and new dukedoms for royal favourites Charles Brandon, Edward Seymour, and John Dudley), so it was not until the 17th century that the numbers began to increase in England (and the first Scottish dukedoms as well), with a similar large-scale increase in France as well.  Still, overall numbers of dukes in France or Britain were never more than 20 or so at a time (today there are about 25 in the United Kingdom, and about 40 in France).

a French ducal coronet

Looking further south, we see Spanish non-royal dukedoms emerging in the mid-15th century for grandee families like Luna, Guzman, Osorio, La Cueva, Alvarez de Toledo and Zuñiga. Portugal had only one non-royal dukedom this early, Bragança, and that was created for an illegitimate member of the dynasty (ie, his mother was not the queen), and Portugal never had more than a handful of dukedoms, royal or non-royal. In Spain, in contrast, by the 17th century, there was an ever-growing number of dukedoms (already about 40 by 1600), and, even more spectacularly, the kings of Spain began to reward loyalty in their overseas territories in Italy (Naples and Sicily) with dukedoms so these began to proliferate, literally into the hundreds by the 18th century.

To separate out some of these families, the higher title of ‘prince’ was introduced, but this too grew to exorbitant numbers in southern Italy until a principality came to mean little more than a particularly large feudal estate. In the Holy Roman Empire as well, a new title was introduced in the 17th century to distinguish certain grandee families, usually with strong connections with the Imperial court: there already were the territorial dukes (Saxony, Bavaria, etc), so instead these were called fürsts or ‘princes’—in German, a distinction can be made between the word prinz which generally refers to members of  those older ruling families, and fürst, a ‘ruling prince’ (from the same root word as the German führer, leader) who is not royal and not a duke. Well known princely families like these include the Liechtensteins, Fürstenbergs, Dietrichsteins and Schwarzenbergs. Their ‘rule’ was only personal until they acquired a fief that was held from no other prince besides the emperor (known as an ‘immediate fief’) and they then were allowed to join the top governing body of the Empire, the Council of Princes which acted as the upper house of the Imperial Diet. Liechtenstein is the only one of these tiny immediate territories that survived into the modern age as a sovereign state, a principality, not a kingdom—and ironically, until the 19th century, the estates around the castle at Vaduz in the Alps were not really considered an important part of the family’s landholdings, which were mostly concentrated in Austria nearer to Vienna, or in Bohemia. A few of these non-royal princely titles were granted in the Habsburg-governed Netherlands as well, for the magnate families like Ligne, Epinoy, or Croÿ. The most famous prince in the Low Countries, the Prince of Orange, was of a different kind, however, as a ruler of a sovereign territory in southern France, not too far from another sovereign family, the Princes of Monaco (sovereign meaning at least nominally outside the control of any other power). These micro-sovereignties were mostly self-proclaimed, and sometimes their status was recognised by their larger royal neighbours, and sometimes they were not.

a princely crown from the Holy Roman Empire

So there are different kinds of prince, royal, non-royal, sovereign prince, imperial prince, and a very uneven distribution, from hundreds in Sicily, to none at all in England.  France had almost no creations of non-royal princely titles, but those that were formed a peculiar category called the ‘foreign princes’, which included the dukes of Guise, princes of the House of Lorraine, and were the subject of my doctoral research. These families were considered to be princely because they were members of foreign sovereign dynasties, but their native titles had no legal standing within France—so all of them were granted dukedoms in France to maintain their elevated dignity and status, and, I would argue, to boost the prestige of the French court. French kings could point to their courtiers and show that they ruled over not only the subject nobility but also the higher princely clans of Europe—a sort of hearkening back to the ancient world’s concept of ‘king of kings’—and allowed them to compete in prestige with their rivals, the emperors in Vienna.

If you’d like to read a recent academic piece of mine on this topic, here is a chapter I published in Adel und Nation in der Neuzeit: Hierarchie, Egalität und Loyalität 16.-20. Jahrhundert, Martin Wrede and Laurent Bourquin, eds (Thorbeke Verlag, 2017)–don’t worry, it’s in English:

The chief difference between princely status and ducal status in most of these countries was in the differences of inheritance systems. All members of the house of Lorraine, for example, were princes and princesses by birth, but only the senior male in France was the duke of Guise. This reflects the two basic systems of inheritance and succession that operated in medieval and early modern Europe: partible inheritance and primogeniture. Germanic custom leaned more towards partible, that is equally divided, inheritance, so all children got a portion of their parents’ wealth: all of the children of a duke of Saxony were called duke or duchess of Saxony, though in terms of actually ruling, men were (no surprise) favoured. But this is why Germany so famously saw ever increasingly tiny dukedoms in the late middle ages, until primogeniture was imposed, often by force, in the early modern period. Primogeniture, in which the firstborn gets everything, had been the more favoured system in the Roman world, and gradually took hold in the Germanic kingdoms once it became clear that, while seemingly unfair to younger sons, avoided quite a lot of bloodshed, fratricide and civil war.  Primogeniture mostly favoured males, and this is true for principalities and dukedoms as well as for royal thrones, but not always, and there are certainly instances where, in default of a son, a throne passes to a daughter, even if there male cousins—though this was almost always a source of strife and legal deliberation. At one end of the scale, German dukedoms never passed to a woman, and this is (mostly) true for England and France as well, though there are some exceptions. In these kingdoms, dukedoms were created, existed for a few generations, then became extinct through lack of a male heir. At the other end of the scale, Spain allowed for almost universal succession, so it is the one place in Europe where hereditary titles never become extinct, and certain aristocratic clans simply accumulate more and more, resulting in extreme cases like the Duchess of Alba, who died in 2014, and was the possessor of about 40 titles, eight of them dukedoms, the most titled person in the world according to the Guinness World Book of Records.

There are also a good deal of other variants in the two titles of prince and duke. Some dukes were deemed to be of higher status than others, so they were called ‘grand dukes’, first with the Medici of Tuscany in 1569—which annoyed the neighbouring dukes of Savoy and Mantua and Ferrara very much, whose ruling families saw themselves as older and grander, even if they had less wealth. Many more grand duchies were created in the aftermath of the Napoleonic wars: Luxembourg, Mecklenburg, Baden, etc. In keeping up with the Joneses, the Habsburgs wanted to ensure that everyone knew their dynasty was of higher rank than anyone else in Europe, so invented the title of ‘archduke’ for their sons and daughters in 1358. Because the language of eastern Europe makes duke and prince fairly interchangeable, the early rulers of Poland were called grand dukes or grand princes before they were fully recognised as kings at the end of the 13th century. The same is true for Russian grand princes of Kiev, Moscow, Vladimir, Tver and so on, until the line of Moscow adopted the title of tsar (‘caesar’ or emperor) in the 16th century.  From this point, grand duke and grand duchess began to be used for all members of the Russian imperial family. All of the magnate families who could claim descent from the original rulers of the various Russian principalities began to use princely titles, and by the 19th century, these numbered in the hundreds. Other rulers in the east in the early modern era were referred to as prince or grand prince—Transylvania, Wallachia, Moldavia, Serbia—in part to show their simultaneous autonomy and subservience to a greater power, whether Byzantine, Ottoman or Habsburg. On the other edge of Europe, the title of prince was sometimes used by Celtic families in Ireland or Wales to indicate descent from a family that had been formerly sovereign before the coming of the English, for example the O’Donnell princes (or flatha) of Tyrconnell or the MacCarthy princes of Desmond.  Some would say the title ‘prince of Wales’ used today is a bit of an insult to those princes of Gwynedd and Powys who were genuinely Welsh.

Besides the hereditary principalities and dukedoms, there were also those (rare) given for life only—as a reward for a great victory or peace accord—and there were those held by churchmen. Ecclesiastical titles originally were part of the means for making the church independent of the state, by allowing bishops to rule a particular territory and generate their own income, but later they became a means for honouring senior prelates. In France, the earliest of these were the ancient Frankish bishops who were central to coronation rituals: the archbishop of Reims was considered a duke and a peer of the realm (see below for what it means to be a peer), as were the bishops of Laon and Langres. Later (1674) the archbishop of Paris was similarly honoured with the title duke of Saint-Cloud, but it didn’t have the same sense of territorial rule over the lands in his diocese. Imperial bishops started out with much the same powers, but as Germany increasingly decentralised (as opposed to France increasingly centralising) their powers as territorial rulers were strengthened and they became known as prince-bishops. The top three were the prince-archbishops of Cologne, Mainz and Trier, and they controlled vast territories in the Rhineland and central Germany as virtual sovereigns. Some of the largest of these territories were formally recognised as duchies: Bremen, Magdeburg, Würzburg (aka ‘duke of Franconia’), and Westphalia (ruled by the archbishops of Cologne). There were also several large abbeys that enjoyed princely status, such as Fulda or Corvey, and some for women, like Essen or Quedlinburg. Being a princess-abbess was just about the best job you could get if you were a woman in pre-modern Germany and you didn’t want to rule as simply a consort to a duke or prince. The main thing that connected all of these ecclesiastical princes was of course that they were non-hereditary (at least in theory; in practice some families treated them as their own personal fiefs, most notably the Wittelsbachs in Cologne).

The other thing that connects together all of the hereditary and non-hereditary princes and dukes, at least in the pre-modern world, was their formal role in creating their monarchs, and in holding them to account if necessary. These magnates were thus known as ‘peers’ in that they were equal (from pair in French) to each other, and in the early days of the history of monarchy, equal to the prince before his coronation (or sacralisation once the Church got involved)—they liked the use the phrase primer inter pares, the ‘first amongst equals’, to describe this semi-tribal tradition, and to remind monarchs that they were made and could thus be un-made. Those responsible for choosing or electing (or perhaps merely acclaiming) the monarch were called peers, formally codified into peerages in England and France, and only informally in Spain or Portugal (where they were called ‘grandees’), and they developed even further in the Holy Roman Empire into ‘electors’. By the mid-14th century there were seven electors in Germany, three sacred and four secular. Not all of these were dukes: only the elector of Saxony was a duke (and arguably the archbishop of Cologne), while the others were the king of Bohemia, the margrave of Brandenburg and the count palatine of the Rhine, though all of these ranked as territorial princes. In France, the original six lay peers entrusted with the coronation ceremony included three dukes (Normandy, Aquitaine and Burgundy), but also three counts (Flanders, Champagne and Toulouse), and when new dukedoms were created, they were also called peers (mostly; some were not), which did not affect the coronation rites, but it did reflect their other role which was to act as a supreme court for the Kingdom, as members of the Parlement of Paris. Similarly, in England, the peers of the House of Lords acted as a supreme court, a job they retained until 2005. Of course, there are a lot of peers in England who are not dukes (barons have been peers since the earliest days of the English peerage), which underlines that much of this history is imprecise and hard to put into firmly delineated categories.

Charles VII of France sitting with some of the Peers of the Realm in the Parlement of Paris

So to conclude this introductory essay, we can see that there are a lot of overlappings and variations of definitions, systems, practices. The peerage does not always mean the dukes; and the titles duke and prince are often overlapping (in fact, in the early modern period, most dukes in England are referred to as ‘high and mighty prince’ in formal documentation). This is why I am treating them together here on this website. There is quite a large chronological and geographical spread to be covered, so I have made some dangerous generalisations above. In England, there are generally only two kinds of dukes, royal and non-royal, though they can be divided into separate peerages for England, Scotland and Ireland. In Germany and Italy they can be ruling and non-ruling (like Mantua for the Gonzagas versus Bracciano for the Orsini). In France the scene is much more complex, with ancient dukes like Aquitaine or Burgundy wielding essentially sovereign (or ‘regalian’) rule, ancien-régime (that is, before the Revolution), dukes acting as peers in the Parlement, then Napoleonic, Restoration and Second Empire dukedoms being created mostly as purely honorific titles. And then there are the countries that have virtually no non-royal princely or ducal titles (like Denmark or Sweden), and those where princely and ducal titles run into the hundreds, like Russia or Naples. There is also a lot of confusing and sometimes contradictory information out there, so hopefully, I can help navigate these complexities to provide some interesting history!

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Hello and Welcome!

This website is the product of many years of research, travel, conversation with friends, and so on. I first became obsessed with dynastic history when my family and I visited Innsbruck, Austria, in 1984 and I saw the magnificent tomb of Emperor Maximilian I — who was this guy? who were these ancestors?

I was hooked on the Habsburgs, wrote papers about them as an undergraduate, then wrote about their relatives, the princes of Lorraine for my doctorate. This sparked the idea that there was more to just studying kings and queens, or the nobility of one particular nation or other. I wanted to do a much broader comparative study of those who were not fully royal (kings, queens, emperors), nor fully ‘local’ nobility (barons, counts). There was an in between category, the dukes and princes, who could easily move between the courts of Europe and had an identity all their own.

each rank has its own style of crown

In addition to reading about all these families, I have continued in my initial desire to see the spaces in which they lived or were buried, so I have enjoyed many years of travel to locations all across Europe to visit country houses, palaces, or ruins. One of my favorite adventures was finding the Duke of Albemarle’s house in the remotest corner or Devon.

Great Potheridge, near Torrington
The remaining south wing, now an outdoor activity center for young people

The blogs I write here will tell the stories of these families, from Spain to Russia, make comparisons, share photos of trips I have made to these properties, and so on. I hope you enjoy them!

Jonathan

Me and the Duke of Westminster’s carriage, Eaton Hall, Cheshire

Golitsyn Princes: Russian ministers from Peter the Great to Nicholas II

The Russian Empire in all its vastness had many, many princes. Some became fairly well known while others came and went in prominence in Russian history. One of the most enduring—with historical figures from the fifteenth century all the way to the Revolution of 1918, and some interesting characters even after—are the Golitsyns. One was a Prime Minister in the early reign of Peter the Great in the 1680s, while another was Prime Minister in the last days of the reign of Nicholas II. Others were generals, musicians, art collectors and scientists. The Golitsyn princes are sometimes better known by the Frenchified version of their name, Galitzine. The name comes from the nickname of one of their earliest members, ‘Golitsa’, which comes from geležis, ‘glove’ in old Lithuanian—indicating the iron or hard leather glove he wore in battle in the early sixteenth century.

Why did this Russian prince have a Lithuanian nickname? While most of the Russian princes were descended from the founder of the ruling dynasty of Rus, Rurik, a number were descended instead from the founding chieftain of the Lithuanian principality, Gediminas (who died in 1341). The Golitsyns were one of the latter, and from the seventeenth century onwards, were the senior representatives of this former ruling house (the Gediminids). As so often the case, the exact filiation from Gediminas is a little murky, and probably fiddled with by nineteenth-century genealogists, but the accepted version was that Gediminas’ second son Narimantas had a son (or perhaps grandson) called Patrikas of Korela (a fortress north of what’s now Saint Petersburg). And from Patrikas descended a number of grand princely families, notably the Kurakin, the Khovanski and the Golitsyn. The son of Patrikas, Jurgis (Yuri, or George), moved to Muscovy about 1410 and married the daughter of Grand Prince Vasily I, thus tying his family to the Russian ruling clan. Their offspring became one of the premier boyar families in the period when Muscovy expanded to take over all the other Russian principalities. Their landed interests, remained tied to the far northwest, particularly around the city of Pskov. The coat of arms used by the family reflected this mixed interest: the arms of Lithuania at top (a knight on a white horse), the arms of Novgorod which was usually the overlord of Pskov (two bears supporting a throne), and an unknown quarter (a silver cross on blue, with an imperial eagle in the centre) which may have come from one of the ancient family estates.

arms of the Golitsyn princes

An early prominent member—using as his surname the patronymic Patrikeyev—was Vassian, Bishop of Rostov, a confidant of Tsar Ivan III, and supporter of his grandson Dmitri Ivanovich against the claims of his uncle Vasily III in the succession of 1503. Bishop Vassian was also notable as a political writer, with works in the 1480s that stressed that the Mongols (the Golden Horde) were not the rightful rulers of Russia, and that the descendants of Rurik should stop paying them tribute, as they had been since the thirteenth century.

Bishop Vassian’s father Ivan Yurievich Patrikeev fighting for Ivan III against the Tatars, from a mid-16th-century chronicle

The first to gain the nickname ‘Golitsa’ was Mikhail Ivanovich Bulgakov, the warrior with the iron glove (his own surname came from his father’s nickname, bulgaq, Turkic for ‘proud’). His son Yuri Mikhailovich Bulgakov-Golitsyn was appointed to important posts by the Tsar: governor of Pskov and later Novgorod, and ambassador to Hungary (in 1550). His sons used the title knyaz (‘prince’) to indicate their family’s high status, and the title boyar to indicate service to the tsar. Prince Vasily Vasilievich Golitsyn was a leading commander in the armies of Russia against Sweden in the 1590s, and then defended Moscow against an invasion by the Crimean khan. He became a prominent political player in the period that followed the extinction of the first ruling house in 1598, the years without a permanent tsar known as the ‘Time of Troubles’. He served as a senior official in the regime of Tsar Boris Godunov and led troops against the ‘False Dmitri’ (claiming to be the son of Tsar Ivan). He later turned around and fought for Dmitri against Godunov’s son Feodor, and was one of the coordinators of the latter’s murder. He then participated in the overthrow of a second ‘False Dmitri’ in 1606, and of the next elected tsar, Vasily Shuisky in 1610, and was himself nominated for the throne in the National Assembly (the Zemsky Sobor) of 1613—but Mikhail Romanov was elected instead. At the time, Vasily was not in Moscow since he had been sent to Poland to negotiate their prince’s claims to the Russian throne, but was imprisoned by them and died there in 1619.

There were already many branches of the family, but all Golitsyns today descend from Prince Andrei Andreievich. He had four sons who generated the four main branches of the family: the Vasilievich, Ivanovich, Alexeievich and Mikhailovich lines. Each contributed hugely to the history of late seventeenth and eighteenth-century Russia—though not always united and sometimes even working actively against each other.

Of the senior line, Prince Vasily Vasilievich was a major figure in the early reign of Peter the Great when he was still a child governed by his elder sister Sophia. Golitsyn and the Regent Sophia were kindred spirits in their interests in education and modernisation of the elites of Russia and its institutions—in particular the military, for which he proposed a system whereby promotions were made based on merit, not ancestry, something that certainly was picked up later by Tsar Peter as an adult. He even considered ideas like the abolition of serfdom and the introduction of religious toleration. From 1682, Prince Golitsyn was Principal Minister (as Minister of Foreign Affairs) for Sophia, and perhaps her lover. He made peace with China in the East and Poland in the West (and recovered Kiev from Poland in 1686). But when Sophia was overthrown by her half-brother in September 1689, her favourite fell with her. Prince Vasily was deprived of his lands and titles but was spared execution; he was exiled with his family to the far north of Russia where he died.

Prince Vasily Vasilievich, ‘the Great Golitsyn’, First Minister of the Regent Sophia, proudly displaying his peace treaty with Poland-Lithuania

Vasily’s branch continued into the eighteenth century, though pushed aside due to the exile and disgrace of its founder. His grandson, Mikhail Alexeievich was initially patronised by Peter the Great who sent him abroad for his education, but later suffered an incredibly strange fate, the stuff of legends, told many times and with differing details. In 1729 he went abroad and converted to Catholicism in order to marry an unnamed Italian or German noblewoman; when Empress Anna discovered this, she declared the marriage illegal and forced the Prince to take on the role of a court fool, serving kvass (a sort of weak wheat beer) to her courtiers (and thus earning the new surname Kvasnik). Then in 1740, he was forced to marry another court fool known as Avdotia Buzheninova, whose surname refers to her custom of smearing melted fat on her body instead of washing, a custom of her people, the Kalmyks. A grand carnival was arranged, in which the newlyweds were paraded in a cage atop an elephant followed by deer, dogs and pigs led by various ethnic minorities of the Empire. They then ‘held court’ in an ice palace constructed on the Neva. Finally freed from his humiliation when the Empress died in 1740, Prince Mikhail lived a rather long life, dying only in 1775.

the wedding procession of Prince Mikhail Alexeievich

While the senior line of the Vasilievichi carried on into the nineteenth century, they seem to have been quite inconspicuous, particularly when compared to their cousins from other lines, as we shall see. None really stand out. When the Russian Empire collapsed in 1917-18, the formal head of the house was Prince Valerian (b. 1869). Born in Moscow, he died there as well sometime after 1923, whereas his wife and son fled abroad to Brussels, where the son, Konstantin, died in 1924. Formal headship—whether that entailed any special privilege or not—passed to a cousin, Nikolai, who had emigrated to New Zealand where he died in 1952, ending the senior line of the House of Golitsyn.

Line of Alexei

The second major branch, the Alexeievichi, were the richest and most numerous branch, sometimes called the ‘Moscow branch’. Early on it split into three sub-branches, for his sons Boris, Ivan and Peter. Prince Boris Alexeievich was the chief rival of his cousin Vasily (the favourite of the Regent Sophia), and was court chamberlain and tutor of young Tsar Peter. Like his cousin, he was also highly educated, very ‘western’, but turned against Sophia and Prince Vasily to aid Peter in his coup d’état of 1689. Once fully in charge, Peter named Boris Minister of the Interior, and gave him the estate of Vyazyomy in 1694, in thanks for saving his life during the Streltsy Revolt. This became the chief estate of this branch of the family. He also acquired the estate of Dubrovitsy, where he built a new stone church in grandiose baroque style, the Church of the Incarnation, though it was at first deemed ‘too Catholic’ in appearance and not dedicated by the Patriarch until several years after its construction. This Prince Golitsyn ruled Russia as one of the ‘triumvirate’ when Tsar Peter went abroad on his long European travels, 1697-98, but he lost favour after failing to suppress a rebellion in Astrakhan in 1706.

Boris Alexeievich, Minister of the Interior

The Vyazomy Manor, west of Moscow, had once been the ancestral estate of Boris Godunov, then served as the residence of the first ‘False Dmitri’ (above). It was a huge estate, comprising several villages and about 900 serfs. The Manor was rebuilt in Louis XVI Style in the 1770s and remained a centre of aristocratic life when the court was in residence in Moscow—though it was located a bit too close for comfort to the battleground of Borodino in 1812 (and the Russian commanders headquartered themselves here). In the late nineteenth century, part of the estate was cut off and set up as a train station for the new Moscow to Brest main line, and the new town around it was named Golitsino. Here the Golitsyns also developed a handicraft cooperative—specialising in basket weaving—for their tenants. Some of this survived the downfall of the old regime, when the estate became a collective farm, and later a horse-breeding and plant disease research centre after the war. Since the 1980s the palace has housed the State Pushkin Museum.

Vyazomy Manor (photo Rommel-86)

The Dubrovitsy estate, south of Moscow, had been first acquired in marriage by Prince Ivan Golitsyn, then purchased by his cousin Boris in 1688. Alongside the great stone church, he built a manor house which was enlarged in the following century and remodelled in classical style. In the latter half of the eighteenth century the palace was acquired by Potemkin, then by Catherine II who gave it to her new favourite, Dmitriev-Momonov. After the latter’s son died in 1863, a succession battle awarded the estate back to the Golistyns who held it until the Revolution. Nationalised in the 1920s, Dubrovitsy Palace was mostly empty in the Soviet era, and has been recently restored and is used to house a local marriage office, a veterans council and research centres for animal husbandry and agriculture.

Dubrovitsy, with the Church of the Incarnation and the palace behind (photo Elena Nechiporenko)

Boris’ grandson, Sergei Alexeievich was appointed Russia’s first permanent ambassador to Spain in 1722, then returned to serve in the Imperial Mint, becoming its director in 1743, then Governor of Moscow, 1753-56. During his tenure, the city’s fire brigade was established and its university opened. His grandson Alexander Nikolaievich was a strange character, combining intimate court favour with ever-increasing piety. Raised in the court alongside Catherine the Great’s grandsons and particularly close to the eldest, Alexander (whose gentleman of the chamber he became in 1795), he continued this friendship once Alexander became Tsar in 1801. Appointed to the post of the Emperor’s representative in the National Church Synod in 1803, he set to work reforming theological colleges and founded a society to promote the Bible, having it translated into Russian. He was appointed to the Council of State in 1810 and then Minister of Education in 1816. Progressives worried of his increasingly conservative power over religion and education and worked to remove him from the Emperor’s favour—even mocking his eternal bachelor status and suspicious closeness with men. But Alexander’s brother and successor Nicholas I retained A.N. Golitsyn on the Council, and he even presided over it for some time in the late 1830s, before he retired to his country estate on the Black Sea, Gaspra, where he died in 1844.

Alexander Nikolaievich, Chief Procurator to the Synod, Minister of Education, in 1840

Prince Alexander’s residence in Saint Petersburg was Golitsyn House on the Fontanka Embankment, among the line of grand aristocratic palaces along the Fontanka river that cuts through the centre of the city. Built in the 1790s and purchased by the Prince in 1812, by the end of the century it belonged to the Treasury, and was owned by the Imperial Court until 1917. In the twentieth century, it was for a long time a school of design, and today it houses a school for children with special needs.

Golitsyn House on the Fontanka, Saint Petersburg (photo A.Savin)

Gaspra, an estate a few miles west of Yalta in the Crimea, had been confiscated from the Crimean khans in 1783 and given to the Golitsyns who built a new summer residence here in the 1830s, known as ‘Alexandria’, overlooking the Black Sea. From the 1860s it was owned by Countess Panina, who rented it out to Leo Tolstoy in 1901-02. Since the Revolution it has housed a sanatorium.

a painting of Gaspra on the Black Sea

Back in the eighteenth century, in the junior branch of the Line of Alexei, Prince Vladimir Borisovich (d. 1798) was even more pro-western than his ancestors had been and became quite Frenchified. He and his wife moved to the French court in the 1780s to oversee their sons’ education there. The Princess, Natalia Petrovna, who had been a lady-in-waiting to Empress Catherine II in the 1760s, many years later was the inspiration for the title character in Pushkin’s novella The Queen of Spades (1833), in which the elderly Countess teaches the story’s protagonist the secret for winning at cards. In Tchaikovsky’s opera version of the story (Pique Dame or Пиковая дама, 1890), the Countess memorably reminisces about the better times of her youth, when she sang at the French court ‘Je crains de lui parler la nuit’, a genuine aria from Grétry’s opera Richard Cœur-de-Lion which premiered in Paris in 1784. The real ‘Queen of Spades’ died in 1838, at age 96, having served at court through the reigns of five emperors and empresses.

Vladimir Borisovich in 1762
Princess Natalia Golitsyna as an older woman, the ‘Queen of Spades’

The ‘Queen of Spades House’, where the Princess Golitsyna lived, was actually next door to where Pushkin lived in the 1830s, on Malaya Morskaya Street, not far from St Isaac’s Cathedral in Saint Petersburg. This house had been built for the Chamberlain of the Court in the 1740s, Prince Gagarin, then sold to the Apraksins, then to the Prince and Princess Golitsyn when they fled the French Revolution in 1790. They created a social and artistic hub for other refugees here, including the celebrated society painter Marie Vigée-Lebrun. In 1838, the grand residence was purchased by the Minister of War, Prince Chernyshev, and his family held it until the Russian Revolution. Afterwards it housed various government offices and the Red Cross—today it still houses a clinic run by the Ministry of the Interior.

Golitsyn house on Malaya Morskaya Street, Saint Petersburg (photo Aervin)

Of Prince Vladimir and Princess Natalia’s sons, Boris and Dmitri both stayed in France at first in the early days of the French Revolution and joined the French Royal Guard, but were recalled to Russia by Catherine the Great in 1791. Boris then left in 1794 to join the Swedish army to fight against the republican armies of France. Back in Russia he became a Lieutenant-General in 1799 and died in 1813, from wounds he’d received at the Battle of Borodino. His brother Dmitri Vladimirovich was named a full General of the Cavalry the year after that, then served for over twenty years as Military Governor of Moscow, overseeing its rebuilding as one of Imperial Russia’s two capitals after it had been burned to the ground in 1812. He was a member of the Council of State from 1821, and in 1841 was formally recognised as a ‘Serene Highness’, distinguishing him and his family from the many other princely families of Imperial Russia. This extended to his descendants, who reside today in France.

Dmitri Vladimirovich, Governor of Moscow

One rung down in the branches of the Line of Alexei, Prince Feodor Sergeievich (d. 1826) served the court as Grand Master of the Hunt. In 1809, he married the last of the line of princes Prozorovsky, one of the many princes descended from Rurik, founder of the Russian royal line, and heiress of Field Marshal Prince Alexander Prozorovsky. Princess Anna was heiress of a large estate, Ramenskoye, southeast of Moscow. In 1831 she built a textile mill here which, by the end of the nineteenth century was one of the largest textile businesses in Russia. Before she died in 1863, the Princess obtained permission from the Tsar for her son Alexander, a Lieutenant-General, to add the name Prozorovsky to his own. The Princes Golitsyn-Prozorovsky only continued for one more generation, however, with another Lieutenant-General named Alexander dying in 1914.

the textile mill at Ramenskoye (photo A.Slavin)

This line of princes had a second seat, much further from the capital, Zubrilovka, in the Volga river valley near the city of Saratov. Purchased by Prince Feodor’s father in the 1780s, Feodor made it a showcase for his collections of art objects. He and his wife Anna built a school here for noble children, the first in the province. Later generations neglected Zubrilovka Palace and it declined, then was badly burned during a peasant uprising in 1905. Portraits, books and documents were destroyed, and the building was not repaired. After the Revolution, the estate was given to an agricultural commune settled by displaced citizens from Petrograd, and the palace was partly restored as a holiday home for party workers. It continued to decline however and was empty by the 1980s. Plans in recent years to save it have come to nothing.

Zubrilovka Palace

Another member of this branch, Prince Dmitri Alexeievich, was Ambassador to Paris, 1762-68, and made his mark by pressing Catherine II to make huge acquisitions of French art, notably the Crozat Collection which she purchased for the Hermitage in 1772. He also convinced Catherine to purchase the library of his friend the philosophe Denis Diderot. Golitsyn then was posted as ambassador to the Dutch Republic, 1768-98, and in this capacity was part of a group of diplomats who created a league of ‘armed neutrality’ to the support the American colonists in their war against Britain. Like his cousins, he was a reformer, and encouraged Grand Duke Paul, while still heir to the throne, to consider patronising new developments in science back in Russia and even (with little success) to abolish serfdom.

His son Dmitri is known by an Americanised version of his name, Demetrius Gallitzin, also known as ‘the Apostle of the Alleghenies’. He grew up in Holland with Prince William of Orange (later the first king of the Netherlands), but by 1786 was discontented with the Orthodoxy of his ancestors and converted to Catholicism. He moved to Baltimore, Maryland (the centre of Catholicism in the United States) in 1792, entered a seminary, became a priest, and travelled into the interior—incognito at first as ‘Augustine Schmettau’, his mother’s maiden name; which morphed into ‘Schmet’, then ‘Smith’. The Bishop of Baltimore sent him on missions to western Maryland and western Pennsylvania, on the far side of the Allegheny Mountains, where in 1799 he founded a settlement called Loretto (after the shrine in Italy), in what is now Cambria County, Pennsylvania. This was the first English-speaking Catholic community west of the Appalachians; its church today is called the Basilica of Saint Michael. ‘Augustine Smith’ became a US citizen in 1802, then legally changed his name in 1809 to Demetrius Augustine Gallitzin. As a priest, he couldn’t inherit his father’s estate, which he wanted to use to fund his mission work in Pennsylvania, so he looked to his friend King William of the Netherlands for help. Gallitzin was several times suggested as bishop for new dioceses being created in Pittsburgh, Cincinnati and Detroit, but he declined them all. He did accept the title of ‘Vicar-General’ of Western Pennsylvania. Prince Demetrius died in Loretto in 1840, leaving his name to the nearby town of Gallitzin.

Demetrius Augustine Gallitzin

I’ll be honest, I didn’t expect to find that story when I started researching this family! So let’s go back to Mother Russia…

The Alexeievich Branch continued to flourish in the late nineteenth century, and even the twentieth, but before we look at these princes, we should jump back to the seventeenth century to look at the third and fourth branches.

Branch 3, the Line of Ivan flourished in the late seventeenth century as the others did, but died out in 1751, so did not reach the great numerical expanse of the other lineages. The brothers Andrei and Ivan were governors of Kazan, the former Tatar capital on the Volga, during the regency of Sophia and their cousin Prince Vasily in the 1680s, and this branch continued its presence in this frontier region until they died out two generations later.

So we can move on to Branch 4, the Line of Mikhail (the ‘Saint Petersburg Branch’)

The founder of this line, Prince Mikhail Andreievich Golitsyn, was Governor of Pskov where the family still had a lot of land and power, under the Regent Sophia, 1682-87. His eldest son Dmitri Mikhailovich was sent by Peter the Great to Italy to learn military tactics. He was later appointed a Senator of the Empire and President of the College of Commerce—but was deprived of this office due to a scandal in 1723. Perhaps for this reason he was the head of the conservative faction in opposition to Empress Catherine I (Peter’s lowborn wife), and then correspondingly rose again in favour under Peter II, who hated his step-grandmother. The new Tsar named him head of his Privy Council in 1727. Like the other Golitsyns we have seen in this period, Prince Dmitri was a reformer, trying to influence the young Tsar to consider new plans for developing a constitutional monarchy led by the aristocracy. These plans were then drawn up formally for Peter II’s successor, Empress Anna, in 1730, and at first she accepted them, then repudiated them—Prince Golitsyn was pushed out of court, tried and imprisoned for his anti-monarchy views in 1736. He died a year later.

Dmitri Mikhailovich, the author of one of the world’s first constitutions

Dmitri acquired one of the major estates of the family, Arkhangelskoye Palace, about fifteen miles west of Moscow. It had belonged in the seventeenth century to Sheremetevs then Cherkasskys, and passed by marriage in 1703 to the Golitsyns. Dmitri retreated here when exiled from the court, and developed a French style garden on the banks of the Moscow River. His grandson Nikolai rebuilt the manor into a palace in the 1780s, with French-inspired architecture and Swedish engineering—he’d picked up the designers on his trips abroad as a diplomat. But work was not completed before it was sold to the Yussupovs in 1810—they built a massive temple-tomb here, as well as a theatre for Italian plays. Since the Revolution it has housed an art and history museum.

Arkhangelskoye Palace (photo A.Slavin)

Dmitri had two younger brothers both named Mikhail Mikhailovich. The older was a Russian Field Marshal and Military Governor of occupied Finland, 1714-21. He too was in favour in the reign of Peter II, as a member of the Privy Council and President of the College of War in 1728. He supported the succession of Empress Anna in 1730, but died that same year, leaving several sons: the eldest, Alexander, was in favour with Anna’s successor Elizabeth, who supported his military career as commander of an army sent against Prussia in 1757, and General-in-Chief after his victory at Kunersdorf, 1758. Catherine the Great retained his services in 1762 as her adjutant-general and a member of her High Court Council. He again commanded an army, in 1768, this time sent against the Turks, and successfully captured a garrison town at Khotyn, for which he was created a Field Marshal. He was one of Catherine’s closest advisors in the 1770s and filled several government posts. Notably he was Governor-General of Saint Petersburg, 1775 and 1780-83, during which time he reformed the city’s police force, built schools and hospitals, and oversaw the creation of the huge equestrian statue of Peter the Great which still stands sentinel near the Admiralty buildings. He died in office.

Alexander Mikhailovoch, capture of Khotyn, 1769

The second son, Dmitri Mikhailovich, spent much of Catherine’s reign abroad: he was ambassador to Paris in the late 1750s, then to Vienna from 1761 to 1792—it is amazing to think that two Golitsyn cousins dominated senior diplomatic posts in Paris, Vienna and The Hague for nearly three decades. At the Imperial court, Prince Dmitri was one of the key negotiators for the first partition of Poland between Russia, Austria and Prussia in 1772. He was also a major patron of Mozart and a collector of art, which he housed in a palace he constructed on the outskirts of Vienna, at the foot of a hill named in his honour the Gallitzenberg—he even had a street in Vienna named for him, Gallitzenstraße, which led from the city to these western hills. The summer palace Golitsyn lived in from 1784 was sold in 1795 to Prince Romanzov then to Prince Montléart in 1824 (and renamed Wilhelminenberg after his wife Wilhelmine). A new palace was constructed here in 1903 for a junior Habsburg archduke, and for much of the twentieth century it housed a children’s home (and since 2000 an exclusive hotel). All that remains of the original villa and its park is a Neoclassical round temple on the hill above the palace. The Prince (‘Fürst von Gallitzen’) died in 1793 and, childless, ordered that this fortune be used to open a hospital back in Russia.

Dmitri Mikhailovich, Ambassador to Paris and to Vienna, in 1762
Gallitzenberg in Vienna, 1790

The Golitsyn Hospital, built in the southwest suburbs of Moscow (on what is now the major boulevard, Leninsky Prospekt), was opened by Dmitri’s cousin Prince Alexander Mikhailovich in 1802, the third public hospital in the Russian capital. It had an affiliation with Moscow University and soon became the clinical base for professors of the University’s medical school. An art gallery was opened here in 1810 to house Prince Dmitri’s collection, the first public gallery of Western European art in Moscow. But it did not last long, and in 1817 was closed and the artworks sold to fund the expansion of the hospital. The Golitsyn Hospital lost its independence in 1919 when it was merged with the 1st City Hospital next door.

the Golitsyn Hospital, Moscow, in 1890s

Mikhail the elder’s third son Nikolai was Grand Marshal of the Court (d. 1786), while his fourth son Andrei died relatively young but left a son, Boris, a lieutenant-general, and a grandson, Nikolai, a cellist and a music patron—in particular commissioning Beethoven to write three of his very late string quartets (in 1822). Prince Nikolai Borisovich also translated Pushkin into French. His son Yuri was a composer and conductor, and died in 1872, ending this line.

This branch had accumulated a lot of wealth, in part through marriage to Princess Anna Gruzinskaya (aka, ‘of Georgia’), granddaughter of one of the last kings of Kartli, and in part through the gift of the Sima estate in Vladimir, northeast of Moscow. Here Princess Anna’s nephew, General Bagration, a hero of the War of 1812, died of his war wounds. When the Sima estate was nationalised in 1918, it became an orphanage, but in the 1960s was declared a national monument, and today houses a rural ‘House of Culture’, the local library, as well as a museum dedicated to the Patriotic War of 1812 and General Bagration.

Anna Gruzinskaya, Princess Golitsyna, looking amazing
Golitsyn Palace at Sima

Andrei’s younger son Alexei was a Privy Councillor and Master of the Horse late in the reign of Catherine II. His widow Alexandra converted to Catholicism in 1818, along with two sons and a daughter, and became a missionary amongst the Russian nobility. Eldest son Peter moved to France in 1837 and left descendants there; while Paul stayed in Russia and retained a place at court, as a Gentleman of the Bedchamber. Their sister brings us back to Catholic mission activity in the United States: Princess Elizaveta was at first a nun in Metz then Paris, then travelled to America to become the Assistant General of the Society of the Sacred Heart of Jesus in Louisiana, 1839. She was sent to New York to open a house of the Society in 1841 and died back in Louisiana in 1844.

Princess Elizaveta Alexeievna Golitsyna

Returning to that second Mikhail Mikhailovich (Mikhail the Younger), like his brothers, he too was prominent in the reign of Tsar Peter II, a member of the Privy Council and President of the College of Justice in 1727. He later had a career in the navy, as an admiral in 1746, then Supreme Commander of Saint Petersburg in 1752 and Admiral-General in 1756—the latter was a tremendous honour, usually reserved for royals only. His position at court had been solidified as a young man through his marriage to Tatiana Naryshkina, the daughter of the Governor of Moscow and a cousin of the Tsar through the latter’s grandmother Natalia Naryshkina.

Mikhail Mikhailovich the younger, as an admiral (note the ermine cloak as a prince)

Their son Alexander was a key figure of the Enlightenment in Russia: he spent much of the 1740s-60s abroad as a diplomat, and used his connections to major artists he met to become a connoisseur and collector of art. He was one of those most encouraging Catherine II to build the Hermitage in 1764. Politically, Alexander Golitsyn aided Catherine in her overthrow of her husband in 1762 and was named to her Privy Council and Vice-Chancellor of the Empire, largely concerned with foreign affairs. He fell out of the Empress’s inner circle and eventually resigned to take up the more ceremonial court position of Chief Chamberlain in 1775. In the 1780s, he retired from politics altogether and devoted himself to the renovation of the main country seat of the Mikhailovichi branch of the family, the estate of Pekhra-Yakovlevskoe east of Moscow, then in the 1790s was responsible for completing his cousin Dmitri’s vision for the Golitsyn Hospital in that city. He lived until 1807, well into his 80s.

Alexander Mikhailovich, Vice-Chancellor of the Empire, 1772

The estate of Pekhra-Yakovlevskoe, considered one of the finest in Russia, took its name from the small Pekhorka river (a tributary of the Moscow river) and the former owners of the estate, the Yakovlevs, an old boyar family. Acquired by the Golitsyns in 1591, a small house was built here in the 1760s, then Prince Alexander Mikhailovich built a much grander palace in the 1780s, along with the impressive Church of the Transfiguration. In 1828 it was sold to Prince Gagarin, then others, before it was nationalised during the Revolution. Following a fire in 1924, it was restored to house the Institute for Fur Farming, and since the 1950s the Agrarian University.

Pekhra-Yakovlevskoe in 1820

Prince Alexander had no legitimate children, so this branch of the family was led in the early nineteenth century by his nephews Alexander, an important art collector, and Sergei, who took over as director of the Golitsyn Hospital. Prince Sergei Mikhailovich, nicknamed ‘the last Moscow nobleman’, was seen as the unofficial head of the Golitsyn family as a whole, and was involved in numerous charities and aspects of government, as a member of the Council of State from 1837 until his death in 1859.

Sergei Mikhailovich

His wife Evdokia, daughter of General Izmailov, known as the ‘Princesse Nocturne’, was one of the great beauties of her age, and had been forced to marry the quite unattractive Prince Golitsyn. After living abroad for many years to escape her marriage, she returned to Saint Petersburg to become one of the great salon hostesses—earning her nickname since her salon never received its guests until after 10 at night. Her house on Millionnaya Street regularly hosted the greatest names in literature and art, including Pushkin who for a time was in love with her.

Princess Evdokia, ‘Princess Nocturne’, c. 1800

Prince Sergei’s country residence was at Grebnevo, northeast of Moscow. This sixteenth-century estate had belonged to the Trubetskoyes by the early eighteenth century, then passed to the Cantemirs—one of whom married Dmitri Mikhailovich Golitsyn (the one who lived in Vienna). But it wasn’t until 1811 that the estate passed to them permanently. Sergei enlarged it and gave it a number of outbuildings. He sold it in 1845. After the Revolution it was a sanatorium but since the 1960s has fallen mostly into ruin.

Grebnevo today

The Prince also maintained a residence closer in towards the city, at Kuzminki, in the southeastern suburbs, along a river that once powered several mills. It had been a Stroganov manor and passed to the Golitsyns by marriage in 1757. Kuzminki was often visited by members of the royal family, sometimes for extended stays—Catherine II lived here for nearly a year in the 1770s. In 1912 it was sold to the city of Moscow, but the main building burned down in 1916. Since 1999 its surviving outbuildings have housed a museum of noble estate culture.

Kuzminki in the 1840s

Later Golitsyns

As the nineteenth century progressed, the three remaining main branches of the House of Golitsyn moved further and further apart. As seen above, the senior branch of Prince Vasily continued but was mostly out of the spotlight. Of the senior line of the branch of Prince Alexei, Prince Valerian stands out for having taken part in the Decembrist Uprising of 1825 against the autocratic rule of Tsar Nicholas I, and was exiled to Siberia. His son Mstislav was given the extra title of Count Osterman in 1863, as heir to his great-uncle Count Alexander Osterman-Tolstoy, a hero of the Napoleonic Wars, who was heir himself to his uncle, Count Ivan Osterman, Chancellor of the Russian Empire. Along with the title came an estate, Krasnoye, southeast of Moscow near the city of Ryazan. Here generations of Ostermans, Tolstoys and Golitsyns are buried.

the Osterman church on the Krasnoye estate

In another sub-branch we find Prince Alexei Vasilievich (d. 1901) who was part of the circle of friends of Tchaikovsky and lived openly with a male lover. The composer spent the summer of 1864 at his friend’s estate of Trostinets in Kharkov Province (now Kharkiv, Ukraine). It only belonged to the family for a short period, inherited mid-nineteenth century, but by 1870s sold to Leopold Koenig who ran the sugar beet factory here.

Golitsyn Palace in Trostinets

In contrast to these circles of high culture, we find (in the same sub-branch) Prince Grigory Sergeievich, a major-general in the retinue of the Tsar, Military Governor of the Ural Oblast and Commander of the Ural Cossack Army from 1876 to 1885. He was a member of the Council of State, 1893, then sent to the southern frontiers of the Empire, as Commander-in-Chief of the Caucasian Administration, 1896-97. A year later, Golitsyn was promoted to Governor of all of Transcaucasia, with his seat in Tbilisi. He survived an assassination attempt by Armenian radicals and died in his bed in 1907.

Grigory Sergeievich, Govenor of Transcaucasia, in 1897

Grigory’s brother, Lev, was a winemaker, setting up wine-growing estates in the Crimea and Northern Caucasus and introducing sparkling wines into Russian dining. As a young man he had studied in France, and in 1878 acquired the estate called ‘Paradise’ near Sudak on the south coast of the Crimea. Here he built a manor house and a guest house modelled on Moorish design. By the 1880s he had become winemaker for the Imperial household, and his champagne served at the coronation banquet of Nicholas II in 1896 became known as ‘Coronation’. In 1912, the Tsar came to visit and requested the name be changed from Paradise to ‘New World’ or Novy Svet, a name which was retained by the estate and company even after the Revolution.

Russian stamp from 2020 commemorating Prince Lev Golitsyn, his winery, and his gold medal from the Paris Exhibition of 1900
the Manor at Novy Svet (photo Hamerani)

Even further down this extended tree of the Alexeievichi, we find Prince Vladimir Mikhailovich, Mayor of Moscow during the turbulent years of the reign of Nicholas II. He had been appointed Governor of the Moscow region 1887, then was elected mayor in 1897. During his tenure tramlines were centralised and a plan drawn up for a metro system. He also built major power factories to bring electricity to the people of Moscow. In his position as mayor of one of the two capital cities of the Empire, he became a leader of the opposition to tsarist absolutism and resigned after the repression of the uprising of 1905. He survived the Revolution but was forbidden from residing in Moscow. Nor could he reside in his country residence, Petrovskoye-Durnevo, as it had been confiscated by the Soviet state.

Vladimir Mikhailovich, Mayor of Moscow, in 1906

Petrovskoye-Durnevo was an estate on the north bank of the Moscow River, west of the city. It had belonged to the Prozorovsky princes in the seventeenth century, then passed by marriage to the Golitysns in the 1720s. Rebuilt as a Gothic castle in the 1760s, it was demolished and rebuilt in 1807 in Classical style, as we see it today. In the 1920s, it served as an orphanage, a rest home and a sanatorium. In 1930 its name was changed to Petrovo-Dalneye, but fell into decay. Restored in the 1970s by the Ministry of Internal Affairs as a national monument, today it is mostly forgotten and deteriorating.

Petrovskoye-Durnevo (photo Ilya Evmina)

In the youngest branch, the Mikhailovichi, prominent late nineteenth-century Golitysns include Prince Sergei Mikhailovich (d. 1915), whose status as a wealthy landowner—inheriting both the Kuzminki and Dubrovitsy estates—allowed him to be a major philanthropist. He supported the construction of several Orthodox churches abroad, took over as Director of the Golitsyn Hospital in 1873, and funded numerous charities and poor relief funds. He inherited his father’s large art collection and opened his house in central Moscow on Znamensky Lane as the Golitsyn Museum in 1865.

Sergei Mikhailovich as an old man in 1900

This museum housed an extraordinary collection of two hundred paintings of Western masters and over 12,000 volumes of his family library. The estate had been purchased by Mikhail Mikhailovich the younger in 1724, and the house built in the 1760s, then expanded to house Catherine II during an extended stay in Moscow in 1775. In financial difficulties, Sergei Mikhailovich was forced to close the museum and sell its collections to the Hermitage. In 1903 the house itself was sold to the Moscow Art Society, and several of the outbuildings were converted into rentable flats for artists—some of these included the composer Scriabin, the painter Repnin and the author Pasternak. After the Revolution, the building housed various departments of the USSR Academy of Sciences—nearly being torn down in the 1930s to build the huge Palace of Soviets (which was not built)—and by the 1990s it housed the Institute of Philosophy of the Russian Academy of Sciences. It was sold and in 2015 re-opened as part of the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, housing its gallery of nineteenth- and twentieth-century European and American Art.

Golitsyn Museum in Moscow (photo by Shakko)

Prince Sergei’s cousin Boris Borisovich (d. 1916, grandson of the music patron Prince Nikolai) was a prominent physicist who invented the electromagnetic seismograph in 1906, then served as President of the International Seismological Association, 1911, and Director of Central Physical Observatory, 1913. Golitsyn princes like Mayor Vladimir, Gallery owner Sergei and scientist Boris demonstrated the best of the late imperial aristocracy in Russia.

The Russian Revolution of course disturbed the centuries old dominance of princely families like the Golitsyns. One of the most famous of the entire family was right in the thick of it, though completely unable to keep events from spiralling out of control. Prince Nikolai Dmitrievich, of the Alexeievichi branch, was a nephew of Prince Alexander Sergeievich (the Minister of Education under Alexander I). Early in his career, Prince Nikolai served as governor of Archangelsk, then of Kaluga and Tver in the 1880s-90s. He later led Red Cross efforts in the Urals and Kazakhstan during the famines of 1907-08, which impressed Tsar Nicholas II who named him to the Council of State in late 1915. As the crisis in government grew, the Tsar appointed Prince Golitsyn Chairman of the Council of Ministers, aka Prime Minister of Russia, in December 1916 (old style; January 1917 new style). Golitsyn was by this point an old man and not a very energetic leader, and he weakly opposed the other ministers’ efforts to shut down the Duma. When the Tsar closed this legislative assembly in late February 1917, Golitsyn resigned. As the Revolution unfolded, he was arrested, tortured, then released in mid-March. For the next few years he lived quietly, repairing shoes and guarding people’s gardens to earn a living. But Comrade Nikolai Dmitrievich was arrested again in 1925, suspected of having counter-revolutionary ties, and executed a few months later.

Nikolai Dmitrievich, the last Prime Minister of Imperial Russia, in 1917

Following the Revolution, we see a diaspora of Golitsyn princes—now more often spelled Galitzine since many ended up in Paris. For example, Prince Mstislav Galitzine, Count Osterman (grandson of the first Count Osterman, of the same name) founded an anti-Bolshevik club in Paris and became involved in fashionable high society interested in esotericism and dream interpretation. Probably through these connections in 1925 he met the much older American socialite heiress and mystic, Aimee Crocker Gouraud. She was an heiress of California railroad money—and at the time considered one of America’s most eccentric personalities and party princesses. This was her fifth marriage, but now she was a real princess—in exchange for a pension of $250 a month for her husband. They divorced only two years later, and he lived in Paris for another forty years. From 1952, he became the de facto head of the entire House of Golitsyn, following the death of his very distant cousin Prince Nikolai in New Zealand.

Mstislav Galitzine in 1920s Paris

Mstislav’s brother Leo moved to Canada where he ran a chartered airplane company in Great Bear Lake. He later acted in small parts in Hollywood, and when he died, in Vancouver, in 1969, the headship of the House of Golitsyn passed once more to another branch, but not for long. This was to Prince Alexander Nikolaievich, son of the executed former Prime Minister. In 1927 he had married Princess Maria Petrovna of Russia, the niece of Grand Duke Nikolai, Commander-in-Chief of Russian forces in World War I, and they settled at La Bastide-Galitzine, near Toulon. Alexandre Galitzine became head of the House in 1966 and died, childless, in 1974. The family may no longer exist on this stretch of the Côte d’Azur, but the cultural association Matrioshka founded by the Princess does, inviting speakers and musicians every summer.

promotional poster for La Bastide-Galitzine, near Toulon

Meanwhile, the claimed title of ‘Head of House’ passed to Dmitri and his brother Kirill who lived in New York City from the 1950s. I am not certain their claim to being heads of the family was recognised by the other branches, since their grandfather Vladimir in some sources is listed as illegitimate, and in others, not. But the purported illegitimacy must not have stained the reputation of the family too much, for in the next generation, Dmitri’s son Peter married (in 1981) Archduchess Maria Anna of Austria, niece of Archduke Otto, claimant to the imperial and royal thrones of Austria and Hungary. Prince Peter moved with Maria Anna to a newly reborn Russia in 1993, and worked to support Catholic charities there, but eventually moved back to the United States in 2008. They have several children, but the actual claim to be senior prince of the House of Golitsyn (if that means anything today), falls to his older brother Dmitri (b. 1947) and his son Philip (b. 1979). Meanwhile, Kirill’s son Vladimir became one of the central pillars of the White Russian community in New York, and ran many of the activities of the Russian Nobility Association, culminating as its president in 2017, until his death in 2018.

Prince Vladimir Galitzine in New York

In the youngest branch of the Line of Alexei, we have the descendants of the longtime Mayor of Moscow (above). Some of these stayed in Russia, such as Georgy Sergeievich Golitsyn, a well-known physicist in the Soviet Union, an atmospheric scientist who at first examined the atmospheres of Venus and Mars in the 1960s, then developed the concept of a ‘nuclear winter’ in the 1980s. He worked for many years at the Russian Academy of Sciences in Moscow, and died only in May of this year. One of his cousins, Prince Andrei Kirillovich, also stayed in Russia, and became a fairly well-known illustrator. In 1990, he helped to found the Assembly of the Russian Nobility, and was elected its leader…a position he held until his death in 2023. He was connected to other Russian noble and charity organisations all over the world.

Prince Andrei Kirillovich Golitsyn

In contrast, many cousins from left Russia. Princess Irene Borisovna, born in the last months of the Empire, escaped with her mother and settled in Rome, She became a leading fashion designer in the 1950s-60s, dressing celebrities like Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor and Jackie Kennedy.

Irene Galitzine in the 1950s

Others went to America. Brothers Alexander and George ‘Golitzen’ became successful members of the film industry in Hollywood. Alexander was a production designer and art director—he won Oscars for Spartacus (1960) and To Kill a Mockingbird (1962), and was nominated for many others. He died at nearly 100 in 2005. George was a producer, responsible for Disney classics Pollyanna (1960) and Parent Trap (1961), but died just two years later. Their sister meanwhile kept up the princely pretensions: in 1931, Natalia married Prince Vasily Alexandrovich of Russia, nephew of the Tsar, and lived for many years in a town near San Francisco.

Alexander Golitzen, Hollywood art director

Another Prince Alexander in America (this one spelled Golitzin), from one of the extant Mikhailovichi lines, was formerly a professor of theology and since 2016 has been Archbishop of the South of the Orthodox Church of America (based in Dallas).

Princess Alexandra (‘Aleka’) Pavlovna moved to Chicago, and in 1928 she too married a Romanov prince, Rostislav Alexandrovich (Vasily’s brother). After a divorce in 1944, she opened up her own clothing shop and was a fixture of Chicago society until she died, age 101 in 2006. Her cousin Vladimir also married, somewhat, into royalty, when he married in 1945 Mabel Iris FitzGeorge, a granddaughter of the 2nd Duke of Cambridge (himself a grandson of King George III). Prince Vladimir Galitzine as a young man had been aide-de-camp of Grand Duke Nikolai, Commander-in-Chief of the Imperial Army, in 1914. In 1912, he married Ekaterina, Countess von Carlow, a morganatic daughter of the Grand Duke Alexander of Mecklenburg-Strelitz (her sister Maria married Boris Golitsyn from the line of the longtime governor-general of Moscow). They emigrated to London, where he set up an art and antiques shop in Berkeley Square in Mayfair in the 1920s; he was also for many years Chairman of the Russian Society of Support for Russian Emigrants in England. They lived for a time in Chessington Hall in Surrey. Princess Ekaterina was killed in the Blitz in 1940, so Vladimir married again. He died in London in 1954, and is buried in Brompton Cemetery, but left behind a set of ‘London Galitzines’.

Vladimir Galitzine

Which leads us to the question of London-born actor, Nicholas Galitzine (b. 1994), who shot to fame last year through his role in Mary & George (and previously the cheesy Amazon Prime film, Red, White and Royal Blue (2023) and now appears much bulked up in the summer blockbuster Masters of the Universe. But although his Wikipedia page used to speculate that he might be ‘a real royal’, it now clearly states he is not. Nor is one of the most famous defectors from the KGB to the CIA in the 1960s, Anatoliy Golitsyn.

Even within the lists of those genuinely descended from Mikhail ‘With the Iron Glove’ there are loads more Golitsyns not mentioned in this overview, and many more estates scattered across Russia. They truly left their mark, and continue to do so.

one of the many other handsome Golitsyn princes in the 19th century, this one Mikhail Alexandrovich, 1833

Galliera (Part II): The Montpensiers, Orléanist dukes masquerading as Spanish royals

The Duchy of Galliera, as seen in Part I, was created in 1839 for Raphaelle De Ferrari and his wife Maria Brignole-Sale, centred on a tiny village in the Papal States north of Bologna. After the death of the pro-Orléanist Duchess of Galliera in 1888, the Duchy was willed to Antoine d’Orléans, Duke of Montpensier, youngest son of the late King Louis-Philippe of France and brother-in-law of the Queen of Spain, Isabel II. He was thus a senior figure within the Spanish royal family, and he and his descendants would remain so until the 1930s. Though his heirs sold the lands in Italy themselves in the 1920s, they are still today known as the dukes of Galliera.

Antoine, Duke of Montpensier and the Infanta Maria Luisa Fernanda of Spain

Before continuing the story of the Duchy of Galliera into the twentieth century, it is a good idea to back up and look over the history of the ducal title of Montpensier.

The lordship of Montpensier formed around a butte overlooking the town of Aigueperse in the twelfth century. This was the northern bulwark of the semi-independent County of Auvergne, strategically situated at the northern edge of the Massif Central where hills begin to level out into the plains of northern France. Montpensier bordered on the ancient lordship of Bourbon, and was held by families associated with both the counts of Auvergne and dukes of Bourbon—Thiers, Beaujeu, Dreux, then back to Beaujeu—before it was sold to Jean de Valois, Duke of Berry, younger brother of King Charles V, who in 1384 upgraded the lordship into a county for his sons Charles and Jean. Neither of these had children, so the county of Montpensier passed to their sister Marie who in 1400 married Jean I, Duke of Bourbon, another prince of the blood. Marie was also heiress of the Duchy of Auvergne, so these two territories formed a block in the very heart of France that would represent almost a kingdom within a kingdom for the next century. There was an ancient castle atop the butte of Montpensier, but it was completely dismantled in the 1630s, and little remains.

divisions of Auvergne in the Middle Ages, with the lordship of Montpensier near the border with Bourbon
an old postcard of the Butte de Montpensier in Auvergne

In a division of family lands in 1442, the County of Montpensier was given to a younger son of the Duke of Bourbon to form his own branch of the family. The most famous of these was Gilbert, Count of Montpensier, who marched to Italy with King Charles VIII and was left in charge as Viceroy of Naples in 1495 and even created ‘Archduke’ of Sessa there. His son, Charles III, married the heiress of the duchies of Bourbon and Auvergne, and as Constable of France was the most powerful man in the Kingdom aside from the King—which was his downfall, and by 1522 all his lands were lost. His sister Louise was allowed to retain the County of Montpensier which was elevated in 1538 into a Duchy-Peerage for her and for her son, Louis de Bourbon-Vendôme (from the junior branch of the Bourbon dynasty). It then passed to his son and grandson, magnate princes that played an important role in the French Wars of Religion. One of their wives was the subject of one of the world’s first romance novels, La Princesse de Montpensier, published in 1662 by Mme de La Fayette. This history will be told in a separate blog post about the dukedoms affiliated with the Bourbon dynasty in the early modern period.

Gilbert de Bourbon, Count of Montpensier, Viceroy of Naples

The last duke of Montpensier, Henri, died in 1608, leaving the duchy (as well as three other duchies, two principalities and numerous counties and lordships) to his daughter Marie. Her marriage in 1626 to Louis XIII’s younger brother Gaston, was unnerving to many at the French court as it gave one of the largest single fortunes in France to the King’s brother and potential rival—see my book Monsieur for all the juicy details. Sadly, Marie de Bourbon-Montpensier died soon after, having given birth to a daughter, Anne-Marie-Louise, Duchess of Montpensier in her own right. She never married so retained the title ‘Mademoiselle de France’ for her entire life, though after the birth of her cousin Marie-Louise in 1662, she became known as ‘La Grande Mademoiselle’ to distinguish the two princesses. She is one of the most colourful figures of seventeenth-century France and really ought to have a television miniseries devoted to her life.

When La Grande Mademoiselle died in 1693, her vast fortune was split up and various pieces went to different cousins. The Duchy of Montpensier went to her favourite cousin, Philippe, Duke of Orléans, younger brother of Louis XIV. It was a useful boost to his independence as a prince, since, unlike the Duchy of Orléans which was a royal apanage, Montpensier was private property so could support the family if for whatever reason the apanage was revoked by the Crown. The Orléans dynasty maintained the Duchy of Montpensier within its portfolio, and some of its daughters were known by the honorific style ‘Mlle de Montpensier’ at court, notably Louise-Élisabeth, the fifth daughter of the Regent of France (Philippe, Duke of Orléans), who was sent to Spain in early 1722 to marry the Prince of Asturias. When he briefly reigned as King Louis I of Spain in 1724 (January to August), she reigned as queen. But her teenaged antics so alienated her from the Spanish court that she was sent back to France, quite the humiliation for any royal princess, and spent her life mostly isolated at her residence in the Palais du Luxembourg since her presence at Versailles, still holding the rank of queen, would complicate etiquette in the presence of the new Queen of France, Marie Leszczyska. Louise-Élisabeth died completely forgotten in 1742, aged only 32.

a print of Louise-Élisabeth d’Orléans, (very briefly) Queen of Spain, known before her marriage as Mlle de Montpensier

The Montpensier title was used later in the century for the second son of the Duke of Chartres (the eldest son and heir of the Duke of Orléans), Antoine-Philippe de Bourbon. The Duke of Montpensier was born in 1775 and raised with his two brothers in the very liberal household of their father, later better known during the Revolution as Philippe-Égalité. In 1791 he joined his older brother’s regiment and fought in the first battles of the Revolutionary Wars—his brother’s defection to the Austrian army, however, in Spring 1793, meant that he was arrested and imprisoned in Marseille, where he contracted tuberculosis. A change of government led to him and his brothers being exiled to the United States in 1796. For two years they roamed the continent, from New England to the Mississippi valley, and he developed his skills as a landscape painter. Eventually, in 1800, they returned to Europe and settled in a house in Twickenham, west London, where he died of his long illness in 1807.

Antoine d’Orléans, Duke of Montpensier, in 1792

His brother, now the Duke of Orléans, was bereft and when his own youngest son was born in 1824, he named him Antoine, Duke of Montpensier. Six years later, Orléans became Louis-Philippe, King of the French, and Montpensier became one of the five royal sons who set out to raise the profile of the House of Orléans. At first, Montpensier was too young to gain glory on the battlefield in the conquest of Algeria in the 1830s, but he made up for it in the 1840s, first as a soldier then as a diplomat, negotiating peace settlements with the rulers of Algiers and Tunis.

the young Antoine d’Orléans, Duke of Montpensier, 1851

In 1846, he was put forward as a candidate for marriage to the young Queen of Spain, Isabel II, to reunify the two Bourbon royal houses, but Great Britain did not like seeing the French king have such influence in Spain, nor did more conservative Spaniards, who wanted their queen to marry within the line of Spanish Bourbons. As a compromise, the Queen married her cousin, Don Francisco de Asís de Borbón, while on the same day, Antoine d’Orléans married the Queen’s sister, Infanta María Luisa Fernanda. Some thought this too was a plot by the scheming King Louis-Philippe since the Infanta was her sister’s heir, and the new King-Consort (Francisco) was thought to be homosexual and thus the throne would ultimately pass to Antoine or his eventual son. He and Luisa Fernanda (as she is usually referred) were already close cousins, as their mothers were both princesses of Bourbon-Two Sicilies. After the Revolution of 1848 sent the Orléans family once more into exile, Montpensier and his wife moved to Spain, but his ambitions for power made him unpopular with Isabel II and her court in Madrid, and the couple spent most of their time in Seville, where they took up residence at the Palacio de San Telmo.

The palace of San Telmo had been built near the banks of the Guadalquivir river in 1682 as a seminary-college for orphans of sailors (Saint Elmo is the patron saint of mariners), with extensive gardens. It received a new, bolder façade in 1734, today considered representative of Sevillian baroque. In 1841, the college was converted into a naval college, then sold to the Duke and Duchess of Montpensier in 1849. In 1897, they sold it to the local archdiocese (and the park was converted to a public park) who owned it until 1989 when it was ceded to the state—today it houses the presidency of the Council of Andalusia.

Palace of San Telmo in Seville (photo by Jebulon)

In 1853, the couple, who now had three daughters, built a summer residence closer to the coast at Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The Palacio de Orleans-Borbón was built in a Neo-Mudéjar style, and today serves at the town hall of the municipality.

The Palacio de Orleans-Borbón in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (photo Anual)

There is another Palacio de Orleans nearby, also purchased in the 1850s, but not enlarged to its present proportions until the 1870s by the Duke’s daughter and son-in-law, the Count and Countess of Paris. The sixteenth century manorhouse had belonged to the Manrique de Zúñiga family and was named Villamanrique. This was changed to Villamanrique de la Condesa in honour of the Countess of Paris in 1916, and the palace still belongs to the Bourbon-Orléans family, in the branch of Orléans-Bragance, the pretenders to the imperial throne of Brazil.

the Palacio de Orleans in Villamanrique de la Condesa

By 1858, Isabel II had a male heir, and the Duke of Montpensier was named Captain-General of the Spanish Army, the ceremonial head of the military. The next year he was made an Infante of Spain so that his rank was equal to that of his wife, as were their children (now five, including a son, Fernando). But he continued to press for more influence in government, particularly as a liberal in contrast to the Queen’s increasing conservatism. So again the Montpensiers were pushed away to live in Andalusia. In 1868, the Queen was driven from the throne in one of the many military coups that punctuated her reign, and Montpensier put himself forward as a candidate to replace her, though he thought it wise to leave Spain. The family took refuge at a property in the Auvergne, the Château de Randan, quite close to where this story began. This large estate had been purchased in 1821 by Adélaïde d’Orléans and willed to her nephew the Duke of Montpensier in 1847 along with the extensive Montpensier forests—a very good source of income. Its history is covered as one of the major possessions of the House of Orléans in the twentieth century.

the Duke and Duchess of Montpensier and their eldest children in the gardens of San Telmo, 1853

Antoine d’Orléans put himself forward again when the Spanish Republic crumbled in 1870 and a new king was sought. It did not help his reputation that in March he killed his cousin the Duke of Seville in a duel, having been slandered by him in the press. Montpensier was not selected for the throne, and was even for a time was banished to Minorca for refusing to swear fidelity to the new king (Amadeus of Savoy). Two of his sons died young, Ferdinand in 1873 and Louis in 1874. Antoine finally returned to favour in the reign of his nephew Alfonso XII (from 1874) and in January 1878, was pleased to oversee the marriage of his daughter Mercedes to the King, though she died soon after, only 18 years old, as did her sister Maria Cristina in 1879 before she had a chance to take her sister’s place as queen as planned.

Mercedes de Orleans-Montpensier, another very brief Queen of Spain

The eldest Montpensier daughter Maria Isabel had long before married the new head of the royal house of France, her cousin the Count of Paris, to Orleanists ‘King Philip VII’. In Spain, the family’s proximity to the Crown was further solidified finally with the marriage in 1886 of Infante Antonio de Orléans-Montpensier and Infanta Eulalia, the sister of Alfonso XII. The King had died the year before, leaving the Duke of Montpensier once more one of the senior male figures in the House of Spain. In 1888, he added a new title, Duke of Galliera, the recipient of the benevolence of the Orleaniste Maria Brignole-Sale, Duchess of Galliera, as seen in Part I. This was not formalised as a ducal title within the Kingdom of Italy until 1895, by which time Antoine d’Orléans was dead. His widow donated the grand park of San Telmo in Seville to the city and today it bears her name as the Parc María Luisa. She died in 1897.

The new head of the family was Antonio de Orleans-Montpensier, Duke of Galliera and Infante of Spain. Born in Seville, he was thoroughly Spanish, and his marriage to Infanta Eulalia brought him honours and duties within the Spanish royal family. In 1892, for example, the couple paid an official visit to Cuba and the United States to commemorate the quadricentennial of the discovery of the New World by Columbus. But by 1900 the very different temperaments of the couple forced them apart and they legally separated. She was an intelligent and cultivated woman, author of several books, while he was a playboy and spendthrift. By the 1920s he was so broke he sold his lands in Italy, including the duchy of Galliera and he died in penury in 1930. She outlived him by nearly three decades, a respected member of the Spanish royal house.

Antonio de Orleans, Duke of Galliera, Infante of Spain

The eldest son of Antonio and Eulalia was Alfonso. Born the same year as his cousin King Alfonso XIII, the two were close growing up, and the King supported his cousin’s career in the helping to develop the first aviation element of the Spanish armed forces, notably in repressing revolts in Spanish Morocco in 1913. A few years before, he had helped strengthen the Spanish Bourbons’ ties with the dynasties of northern Europe (something King Alfonso was keen on), through his marriage to Princess Beatrice of Edinburgh, the daughter of Prince Alfred of Great Britain (Queen Victoria’s favourite son), who had become Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha in 1893. Her sister was Queen Marie of Romania. At first the new Duchess of Galliera refused to convert to Catholicism, and Alfonso briefly lost his status as an infante of Spain, but she did in 1913 and this was restored. Nevertheless, the relationship became rocky during the First World War when Beatrice was accused of flirting with the King, and he sent them away to Switzerland.

Alfonso, Duke of Galliera, and Beatrice of Edinburgh

Infante Alfonso returned to Spain in 1921 and spent the next decade training pilots to fly. His wife lived in England off and on. In 1936, they lost their estates in Spain since they and their sons openly opposed the republican government. Once Franco took over, Alfonso returned to work as a pilot as head of Spain’s aerial forces, and was raised to the rank of general in the air force in 1940. But his career again ended abruptly in 1945 when he openly voiced his support for the Count of Barcelona to reclaim the Spanish throne. He remained the Count’s representative within Spain amongst the monarchist movement until he died in 1975.

Alfonso had a younger brother, Infante Luis Ferdinand de Orleans-Galliera, who had a relatively short but troubled life. In the 1920s he was frequently at the centre of scandal due to drug use and unsuitable marriages, and was stripped of his royal status in 1924. Ten years later he was arrested in France for anti-social behaviour, again involving drugs, but also alleged homosexual acts. He died in disgrace in 1945.

By this point, focus was turned to the next generation and the three sons of the Duke and Duchess of Galliera: Álvaro, Alfonso and Ataúlfo. Though now more distant cousins, in the 1920s they were still seen as an extension of the royal family, and in the Spanish Civil War supported the Nationalists (monarchists) against the Republicans. Alfonso was killed in battle in 1936, and Ataúlfo (whose name came from an ancient Visigothic king of Spain) joined the German legion sent to fight in Spain. Unlike the rest of the royal family, he remained loyal to Franco. He never married and also may have been homosexual.

the Galliera coat-of-arms as used in this generation, with Orleans-Montpensier, Saxe-Coburg (with Great Britain overall), Bourbon-Anjou (the House of Spain), and Russia (from their Romanov grandmother). They used the surname Orleans-Borbón y Sajonia-Coburgo y Gotha

The eldest brother Álvaro shifted his focus somewhat away from the Spanish royal family. As a young man he had been a pilot like his father, and was extended the rank of infante of Spain by the King (which his younger brothers were not). In 1937, he married an Italian aristocrat, and his father ceded his title Duke of Galliera to him, formally confirmed by King Victor Emmanuel III. Carla Parodi-Delfino was the daughter and heiress of an Italian industrialist, business magnate, and key supporter of fascism in Italy. The Duke moved to Italy and mostly remained out of the spotlight, dying in Monaco in 1997, and his wife in 2000.

Álvaro de Orleans-Borbón, Duke of Galliera, Infante of Spain

They left a son and two daughters, not considered royal because their parents’ marriage was seen as morganatic. One son, Alonso, had predeceased his parents. He and his brother Álvaro both married Italian aristocrats: Alonso with a niece of Queen Paola of the Belgians, and Álvaro a daughter of the Prince of Strongoli, Emilia Pignatelli. They too had two sons, another Alfonso and Álvaro, born in 1968 and 1969. Alfonso became the Duke of Galliera in 1997 and remains the head of the Orleans-Galliera family today. He studied at an American business school, then shifted focus to become a race car driver; in 1994, he made a name for himself at the famous races at Le Mans. Since then he has created a racing team based in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, ‘Racing Engineering’, which has won several prominent trophies. The current Duke of Galliera has a son and heir, another Alonso, born in 1994, who has recently married a Belgian aristocrat.

Alfonso de Orleans-Borbón, Duke of Galliera

Since the start of the nineteenth century, most of Europe’s ruling families have been much more closely affiliated with the country over which they rule. The line of dukes of Galliera illustrates a fascinating counter-example in which French princes use an Italian title in modern day Spain.

Galliera (Part I): Brignole-Sale and the most amazing palazzi in Genoa

Once upon a time there was a shining city by the sea: Genoa. A fair city built on bustling trade with the eastern Mediterranean, its merchant-oligarchs created a republic in which a select number of leading families shared rule through an elective title of doge, a local variant of the old Roman title dux or duke. In the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, pre-eminent names like Adorno and Fregoso appear multiple times in the list of doges, replaced in later centuries by even more famous names like Spinola and Doria. Some of these families expanded their own dynastic power beyond the confines of the Republic into the hinterlands of Liguria and Piedmont and obtained fiefs from the Holy Roman Emperor; they eventually ranked amongst the highest nobles in Italy, notably the Doria princes and the Spinola dukes. These will have their own blog posts. They all left behind stunning palaces as monuments to Genoa’s prosperity.

the Palazzo Bianco, one of the pair of palaces built in Genoa by the Brignole-Sale

One family that is less well-known, Brignole-Sale, though they built two of the most well-known of these palaces, did not at first attain these princely heights. They did, however, create an independent power base in a marquisate that was considered sovereign, if extremely tiny: Groppoli, in the strategic mountainous region where Liguria, Tuscany and Lombardy come together. This family also started to consider themselves as one of the princely houses of Europe even if they didn’t strictly possess a princely title, dating from the first election of one of their members (out of an eventual four) to the position of doge. In 1635, Doge Giovanni Francesco Brignole staged a royal investiture as ‘king’ of Corsica—an island governed by Genoa since 1347—sealed with the gift of a new statue of the Virgin Mary to the Cathedral, along with a royal crown and sceptre entrusted for safe keeping with the Archbishop. Brignole argued that all Genoese patrician families, as potentially elected doges and thus kings of Corsica, were of equivalent rank to a prince of the blood in other states (noting that the meaning of ‘prince’ in many contexts was considered to be someone with potential to rule). The 1630s, it should be noted, was precisely the same period when princes all across Europe were putting forth various status claims to distinguish themselves from their peers, including uses of ‘highness’, ‘serene highness’ and ‘royal highness’—the latter style now claimed not just by sons of kings in France or Spain, but for the dukes of Savoy and grand dukes of Tuscany, the jealous neighbours of the doges of Genoa.

But this blog post is not principally about the princely doges of Genoa or the sovereign marquisate of Groppoli. Several miles to the east, near the city of Bologna in the province of the Romagna, was the estate of Galliera, which was not at all significant until it was purchased by Napoleon Bonaparte and given to his stepson’s firstborn child as a duchy in 1812. A generation later it was sold to a Genoese patrician, Raffaele de Ferrari, who married the heiress of the Brignole-Sale family, and was created Duke of Galliera by the Pope in 1837. The Duke and Duchess lived in Paris, and when she died in 1888, she left her Italian duchy to a prince of the House of Orléans, Antoine, Duke of Montpensier, who happened to be living in Spain as brother-in-law of the late king, Alfonso XII. The French family of Orléans-Montpensier would operate as Spanish princes, with the Italian title Duke of Galliera, throughout the twentieth century and indeed continues at present. They will be covered in Part II of this post.

Maria Brignole-Sale de Ferrari, Duchess of Galliera

The biggest legacy of the Brignole-Sale family is not the creation of the Duchy of Galliera, or the great wealth that enabled the foundation of an independent branch of Franco-Spanish princes. Rather it is some of the grandest residential buildings in Europe, including the hotels de Monaco and de Matignon in Paris and the twin Brignole palazzi, Rosso and Bianco, in Genoa, today the artistic centrepieces of that wonderful maritime city.

So it makes sense to start with these buildings in Genoa. But not at first the Red and the White. First something smaller, an ancient tower residence—the kind built by Italian urban nobles since the Middle Ages—in the oldest quarter of Genoa near the harbour, and a new villa on the outskirts of the city. The first was acquired by a Genoese merchant called Giulio Sale in 1583, and the second newly built by him in the years that followed. Sale was a noble senator of the Genoese Republic, who went on to acquire the marquisate of Groppoli from the Medici in 1592. When he died in 1607, all his properties passed to his daughter, Geronima, who had recently married her first cousin, Giovanni Francesco Brignole.

Of these properties, the oldest, was known as the Palazzo Giulio Sale. Its tower was built by the Embriaci family in the twelfth century. Purchased by the Cattaneo family in 1540, it was enlarged by the acquisition of an adjacent house. Renamed the Palazzo Brignole-Sale, it was again expanded in the seventeenth century. With their extinction in the 1860s, the palazzo passed to the Melzi-d’Eril family; and today it is divided into flats but the tower remains.

Palazzo Giulio Sale, facade (photo Superchilum)
the rear of the Palazzo Giulio Sale, revealing its medieval tower (photo Twice25)

In the hilly eastern neighbourhood of Genoa known as Albaro, patricians built grand villas to escape the heat and smell of the city. One of these, built by Giulio Sale, became known as the Villa Brignole-Sale. Sold in 1882 to nuns, it is now a school.

Villa Brignole-Sale in Albaro

Groppoli had a much more complex past history. About a hundred miles to the east of Genoa, it was in a contested region known as the Lunigiana, desired by both Liguria and Tuscany, but kept independent by its feudal overlord, the Holy Roman Emperor. The Empire always maintained a degree of sovereignty over these north Italian states, though at times purely nominal. The Lunigiana famously was divided between several micro-sovereignties, some consisting of just a single town or village. The best example was the twin state of Massa and Carrara, ruled by the Malaspina then the Cibo families (see a future blog post on them), until the entire area was absorbed by the Grand Duchy of Tuscany after the fall of the old regime in Italy in the 1790s. Groppoli was in fact one of the many tiny parts of the Malaspina sovereign territories—as Lombards, their custom was to divide the inheritance between sons (rather than consolidate with primogeniture), so from 1576, Groppoli split off from the main Malaspina marquisate of Mulazzo (itself an independent imperial fief since the 1160s), though just a year later it was sold to the Medici grand duke of Tuscany, Ferdinand I, and raised to the rank of imperial marquisate by Emperor Rudolf II. Ferdinand then re-granted it as a fief to Giulio Sale in 1592. Once in the possession of the Brignole-Sale family, the marquisate of Groppoli was ruled as if it was sovereign, ignoring complaints by the Medici grand dukes, and tacitly approved by the Habsburg emperor, until the 1750s-60s, when a centralising government in Tuscany tried to reclaim it, and finally succeeded in 1774. It was one of the tiniest states in Italy, being only 12 km2 and with less than a thousand people. The medieval Groppoli Castle, also known as Gavedo, is on a hilltop a few miles south of the town of Mulazzo; lower down the hillside in the village of Gavedo is the Villa Brignole-Sale, built in the 1640s, which today is a restaurant.

Castello Groppoli in Tuscany
the Villa Brignole-Sale in Gavedo

So by 1620, Giovanni Francesco Brignole and Geronima Sale were well set to establish a powerful new dynasty in Genoa. Giovanni Francesco was the son of Antonio Brignole—whose surname came from brignòle, a plum tree, which appears on their coat-of-arms. He was a wool merchant from Rapallo, a port further along the coast east of Genoa (near Portofino), who later expanded into silk, and made enough of a name for himself that he was elected to be a senator in the Republic. He married Maddalena Sale, sister of Giulio, and their children brought the two families together.

the arms of Brignole, with its plum tree, and Sale

Their eldest son Giovanni Francesco rose through the ranks of Genoese society and held various jobs for the Republic, notably serving in embassies to Vienna and Rome, and as a magistrate in Corsica. He built up the family’s landholdings by purchasing fiefs from the Spinolas and Dorias, and in 1635 was elected Doge of Genoa. He served his two-year term and died shortly after. There would be three other doges from the Brignole-Sale family, including the very last one before the Republic was destroyed by the revolutionary armies of France.

Giovanni Francesco Brignole-Sale as Doge of Genoa

Antonio and Maddalena also helped build up their family’s power through marriages: daughters Geronima and Giovanna married into local noble houses, the former to a son of one of the most recent doges, the Durazzo, and the latter to one of the oldest families in the region, with princely status, the Saluzzo. Of their two sons, Carlo married into the local Merello family and was able to start his own cadet branch of the family, housed in their own palace in Genoa, today known as the Palazzo Gio Carlo Brignole or the ‘Palazzo Verde’—the first of our ‘coloured’ Genoese palaces. Built in 1628 on the Piazza della Meridiana, at one end of the aristocratic Strada Nuova—see below—and renamed for his grandson Gio Carlo who enlarged it. It later passed to the Durazzo cousins (becoming the Palazzo Brignole Durazzo) and today houses the headquarters of the Hifi Prestige sound system company.

The Palazzo Gio Carlo Brignole or ‘Palazzo Verde’ (photo Palickap)

We will come back to the cadet line later. The child of Giovanni Francesco Brignole and Geronima Sale, Anton Giulio, took the name Brignole-Sale and became the 2nd Marchese of Groppoli, formally invested again by the Grand Duke of Tuscany in 1610. He continued to solidify his family’s place in the Genoese social hierarchy by marriage to Paolina, whose father was an Adorno and whose mother a Spinola, practically Genoese royalty. Anton Giulio was a diplomat like his father as well as a literary patron; later in life as a widower he retired from the secular world and became a Jesuit.

Anton Giulio, 2nd Marchese di Groppoli, by Van Dyck, 1627
Paolina Adorno Brignole-Sale, by Van Dyck

Their two sons Rodolfo and Giovanni Francesco continued to expand the family’s presence in the urban landscape of the city. In 1671, the brothers built a new mansion on the Strada Nuova, one of the grand streets being developed up the hill away from the old medieval city and its busy harbour, much more likely to catch fresher breezes wafting up from the sea. Originally conceived as the Strada Maggiore in 1550 and nicknamed the Strada Aurea (‘Golden Street’) in the eighteenth century,since 1881 it has been called Strada Giuseppe Garibaldi. The entire street is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The brothers divided the new palace, each with his own piano nobile. The Palazzo Rosso’s distinctive red exterior drew visitors in, to hanging gardens, ceiling frescos and a collection of paintings by the leading artists of Europe: Reni, Del Sarto, Van Dyck, Veronese, on and on and on… In 1872, the Duchess of Galliera donated the building and its collections to the city of Genoa, but it remained in the style of a house-museum until major renovations in the 1950s greatly expanded the gallery space.

Palazzo Rossi on the Strada Nuova (photo by Sailko)

Meanwhile, in 1675, Giovanni Francesco acquired a villa in Voltri, another suburb of Genoa. Much more spacious than the villa in the east, this villa in the west was set in a large park, developed as baroque gardens in the early eighteenth century, then redeveloped as an English park in 1803, and redeveloped again in a Romantic style by the Duchess in 1872. When she died, she left the Villa Brignole-Sale and its gardens to a pious charity bearing her family name. Since 1931 it has been run as a public park by the city of Genoa. Today it is known as the Villa Brignole Sale Duchessa di Galliera.

the Villa Brignole-Sale in Voltri (photo GiuF80)

So now that we have a green and a red palace, what about the famous white palace, the Palazzo Bianco? In 1711, the widow of Giovanni Francesco, Maria Durazzo, acquired the palace across the street from the Palazzo Rosso as the principal creditor of the De Franchi family. This was a much older building, built in the 1530s for the Grimaldi family—Genoese patricians who were distant cousins of the sovereign princes of Monaco—and acquired by the De Franchis in 1658. Marchesa Maria renovated the palace in 1714 and gave it the name ‘bianco’. Like the Palazzo Rosso, the Palazzo Bianco was given to the city in the nineteenth century—its ‘galleria pubblica’ was specifically mentioned in the Duchess’s will of 1884. It too was redesigned in the 1950s, and houses more spectacular masterpieces, by Caravaggio, Raphael…

the Palazzo Bianco from street level (photo Twice25)

Rodolfo and Giovanni Francesco succeeded their father as 3rd and 4th Marchesi di Groppoli, followed by the latter’s son Anton Giulio, who died young in 1710. Of his four sons, two were elected doge of Genoa. The eldest, Giovanni Francesco, had a long career in service to the Republic starting in the 1730s, when he served as general of its galleys and director of public works, successfully repairing the great aqueduct that brought fresh water to the city and overseeing the construction of a new port. As ambassador to France, 1737-39, he withdrew from an age-old alliance with Austria to ally with France, inviting them to aid in the oppression of independence movements on Corsica—though in the long term, this ended with Genoa’s complete cession of the island to France in 1768 (and the  end of the doges’ claims to its royal title). The new alliance also led to an invasion by Austrian troops in the War of Austrian Succession (1740-48), during which Brignole-Sale led the small Genoese army under Franco-Spanish command in a bold attempt to defend the Republic. After several victories in the field, Giovanni Francesco was elected doge in March 1746, but Spain’s sudden withdrawal from the war in June led to a complete occupation of the city and the Doge’s humiliating surrender before an Austrian general, ironically the Genoese soldier Antoniotto Botta Adorno. By the end of the year, however, a popular revolt in Genoa drove the Austrians out, and the Doge re-asserted command, acceded to revolutionary demands for democratic government, then slowly rescinded these concessions once peace was restored in late 1748. By this point, Giovanni Francesco II was no longer doge; he spent the last decade of his life tending his feudal estates in Groppoli—which meant confronting a newly aggressive Tuscany.

Giovanni Francesco II, Doge of Genoa

Since 1737, a new dynasty ruled in Florence, the House of Lorraine, and the new Grand Duke, Francesco II (the future Emperor Francis Stephen), was a determined reformer. One area needing reform was Tuscany’s messy relationship with the feudal lords on its northern borders, especially those in the Lunigiana protected by Imperial law since the Middle Ages. Once Francis Stephen was himself elected Holy Roman Emperor in 1745, this protection was obviously lost, and new decrees were passed in 1749 abolishing the old privileges of the semi-sovereign fiefs like Groppoli, claiming they were now merely Tuscan fiefs and had to comply fully with Tuscan law. The Brignole-Sale family held out for several years, but finally gave in and acknowledged Tuscan sovereignty in 1774.

After the eldest of the four brothers died in 1760, the two remaining brothers, Giuseppe Maria and Rodolfo Emilio, fought over the succession, and notably over full proprietary rights over the Palazzo Rosso, notably because the former only had a daughter and the latter was concerned the palace and other properties would pass out of the family when she married. Indeed, Rodolfo also opposed Giuseppe’s choice of a husband for his daughter, Maria Caterina. In 1757 she had married Honoré III Grimaldi, Prince of Monaco. On paper this was a fantastic marriage, to a sovereign prince and a member of the wider Genoese dynasty of Grimaldi (who had also provided several doges in the eighteenth century), but the Prince was seen as an unsavoury character, and rumoured to be the lover of his new wife’s mother, Maria Anna Balbi (whose own father had also been a doge, back in the 1730s). The dispute nearly resulted in a duel, until the matter was settled by Republican courts agreeing that Rodolfo would be the primary heir of Giuseppe, not Maria Caterina. As it turned out, the marriage was unsuccessful, and after having given the Prince two sons, the Princess of Monaco legally separated from her physically abusive husband in 1770. While he publicly flaunted his mistresses in Parisian society, she too had already begun a relationship with the Prince of Condé, Louis-Joseph de Bourbon, a cousin of the King of France.

Maria Caterina Brignole-Sale, Princess of Monaco

At first the beautiful and cultured Princess of Monaco lived in Paris with the Prince of Condé at his Palais Bourbon in the Faubourg Saint-Germain or at his country house at Chantilly. Then in 1773, she used her newly restored dowry to purchase a plot a few streets away from the Condé residence and constructed a new Hôtel de Monaco. Her husband resided in the nearby Hôtel de Matignon (about which more below), or far to the south in his principality on the Mediterranean coast. The Hôtel de Monaco was built in bold neo-classical style, but didn’t remain in the family long. Soon after the Revolution broke out, both Marie-Catherine and Louis-Joseph left France, and the building was leased as a residence for the British ambassador, then the Ottoman ambassador. Sold to the Marshal Davout in 1808, from the 1820s it housed various dignitaries and private individuals, notably the Austrian ambassador in the 1830s. Since 1938 it has been the residence of the ambassador of Poland.

the Hôtel de Monaco (photo Moonik)

Marie-Catherine Brignole-Sale accompanied her partner the Prince of Condé to his court in exile established in Koblenz on the Rhine. While all of his private income was confiscated by the French government, hers was not, and she was crucial in funding his household and the creation of an army of émigrés in the early years of the Revolutionary Wars. After 1792, this counter-revolutionary effort failed and the couple moved to England where they resided in a house in Wimbledon. In 1795, the Prince of Monaco died, and a few years later, the Princess and Condé married, though they kept it secret until 1808. She died in 1813 and is buried in London, missing by only a year what would have been a triumphant return to France as Princess of Condé, a princess of the blood, outranking every woman at court save those of the immediate royal family.

Meanwhile, back in Genoa, the youngest brother of Doge Giovanni Francesco, Rodolfo Emilio, rose through the ranks of the Genoese Republic in the 1750s, serving in various posts in the magistrature and administration. In 1762, he was elected Doge of Genoa for a two-year term, during which he made strides in reforming education and monastic property holding—very much in line with other reforming princes of this decade. After his term was up, he continued to serve in other posts, and after 1769, succeeded his brother Giuseppe Maria as 8th Marchese of Groppoli, which meant continuing the struggle against the Grand Dukes of Tuscany.

Rodolfo Brignole-Sale, Doge of Genoa

He was succeeded in 1774 by his son Anton Giulio, whose marriage to Anna Pieri, from a patrician family in Siena, contributed to the last flourishing of high society in ‘La Superba’, the Republic of Genoa, notably in the grand balls she staged at the Villa Brignole-Sale in Albaro and the new theatre she built at the Villa Brignole-Sale in Voltri. Following the fall of the ancient republic in 1797, and its liberation from Austrian occupation in 1801 by Napoleon, Anna became a fervent Bonapartist. Her husband died in 1802 and the widowed Marchesa di Groppoli travelled between Paris, where she became a lady-in-waiting to Empress Josephine in 1804, and Genoa, where she hosted pro-French intellectuals in her Palazzo Rosso—indeed, a treaty was signed here in June 1805 by which the new ‘Ligurian Republic’ was annexed to the French Empire. In 1810, Anna and her son Anton moved to Paris where she became lady-in-waiting to the new empress, Marie-Louise of Austria. She was created a Countess of the Empire in her own right, and even worked on Napoleon’s behalf to try to forge closer ties with Rome where one of her relatives was a chief advisor to Pope Pius VII. After the defeat of Napoleon in 1814, both she and her son travelled to Vienna where her son tried to re-establish the independence of a Genoese republic (which failed, and Liguria was annexed to the Kingdom of Sardinia), and Anna remained in service to Marie-Louise before dying at Schönbrunn in 1815.

Anna Pieri Brignole-Sale

Of Anton Giulio and Anna’s children, the eldest, Rodolfo, had abandoned his rights as Marchese di Groppoli (now merely a Tuscan title, with no claims to sovereignty) in 1806 and became a priest, and, thanks to his mother’s ties with the Papacy, was given the purely titular rank of Bishop of Assuras—an ancient Roman bishopric in North Africa (now Tunisia) that had not existed since the Islamic takeover centuries before. His younger brother Antonio, 11th Marchese di Groppoli and Count of the Empire of the French, returned from the Congress of Vienna and pragmatically entered the service of the King of Sardinia. He was a diplomat in Spain, England and Russia before being named Ambassador to France in 1836, and, like his mother, was a major figure in society and politics, now under the July Monarchy of King Louis-Philippe. At the collapse of this regime in 1848, he was recalled and named a Senator of the Kingdom of Sardinia. He died in 1863 leaving only two daughters—to whom we shall return (one being the Duchess of Galliera)—and the heirs of his sister, Maria Pellegrina, Duchess of Dalberg, who, like her mother, had been a lady-in-waiting of the Empress Marie-Louise. Her husband, the Duke of Dalberg, was a leading figure in Napoleonic Germany (and a blog is in preparation on that family), and thanks to this prestige, their children were able to claim a part of the Brignole-Sale succession in 1863, notably the marquisate of Groppoli. From the Dalbergs it passed to the House of Acton who continue to use this title today.

Marchese Antonio Brignole-Sale, 1846

Before returning to France and the other half of the succession, we need to look at the cadet line of the House of Brignole-Sale, and three of its members who also made their mark on the history of Genoa and Italy.

Giacomo Maria Brignole-Sale was the only doge elected twice; he was also the last ever doge. First elected in 1779, then in 1795, he served until the Republic was destroyed in 1797. In this second term, he had tried to maintain neutrality as French armies under the command of General Bonaparte battled across northern Italy against the forces of the King of Sardinia and the Austrian Emperor (as Duke of Milan). But he clashed with local Jacobins who were eager to see the gains of the French Revolution imported to Italy, and in May 1797, Bonaparte responded to news of civic disorders and occupied the city. The Doge agreed to negotiate for the future of the Republic: in June the Ligurian Republic was proclaimed, a client state of the Republic of France, with Brignole-Sale as its first doge, but the title was abolished within days, and although he remained in power as president of a provisional government, he was mostly under French direction and was replaced and eventually exiled in 1798. He moved to Florence where he died in 1801.

a coin from the Ligurian Republic, 1798

[please help–why is it difficult to find a painting of the last Doge of genoa?]

The last doge’s eldest son Gian Carlo remained in politics after returning from exile in 1814. After briefly trying to re-establish an independent Genoese republic, like his cousin Antonio, he immediately joined the service of the King of Sardinia, becoming a gentleman of the chamber in 1815, and was given the job of reorganising the University of Genoa. He served as the Kingdom’s Finance Minister for nearly a decade from 1816, and afterwards returned to Genoa to oversee its poor relief system.

Marchese Gian Carlo Brignole-Sale

Gian Carlo left three sons, the youngest of whom became a major figure in the papal government in the 1850s. Giacomo Luigi worked in the finance administration of the Apostolic Chamber in the 1830s, and was named titular Archbishop of Nazianzus, another former diocese in Muslim territory (now central Turkey). He was promoted to Cardinal in 1834 and passed through various posts including Papal Legate to Ferrara and Vicar of the Lateran Basilica before he was appointed Camerlengo of the Sacred College in 1851, the head of finances for the College of Cardinals. He held this post for a year, then died in 1853.

Giacomo Luigi, Cardinal Brignole

The Cardinal Brignole’s nephew Benedetto would be the last male member of the House of Brignole-Sale (other more distant lines of the Brignoles do persist). And so we must turn back to the primary heiress of the main branch, Maria, Duchess of Galliera and shift our attention back to France.

Born in Genoa when it was still part of the French Empire, we might even consider her French by birth. In 1828, when she was only 17, she married Raffaele De Ferrari, whose family were also Genoese patricians, with several doges in their pedigree (including his uncle, Doge Raffaele Agostino De Ferrari, in 1787-89). He became a banker and an investor in railroads, as a co-founder in the 1850s of the Compagnie des chemins de fer du Midi, which developed railroads from Lyon to Paris and to other parts of France, the Piedmont, the Pyrenees, Morocco, etc. He was involved in the formation of Crédit Mobilier, one of the most significant and influential financial institutions in the nineteenth century, involved in railroads in South America and the building of the Suez Canal. He was listed amongst the ‘millionaires’ of nineteenth-century Europe, and supported charities in France and back in Genoa, and funded improvements to the city’s port. One of Genoa’s main train stations is still today called the Brignole. As a reward, he was named a Senator of the Kingdom of Sardinia. Raffaele and Maria had also climbed higher on the social ladder when they were created Duke and Duchess of Galliera by the Pope in 1837, and much later, Prince and Princess of Lucedio by the King of Italy in 1875.

Raffaele De Ferrari, 1st Duke of Galliera, Prince of Lucedio, wearing the Order of the Annunziata

Galliera is a small village in the province of Bologna, in the Romagna, at the time still part of the Papal States. It had a medieval tower, just outside the village, but otherwise was insignificant as a fief. It must have been the richness of its agricultural estates in the fertile plains south of the river Po that drew Napoleon Bonaparte to acquire it when he visited Bologna in 1805. That year, Bonaparte was in the process of creating a new Kingdom of Italy and named his stepson Eugène de Beauharnais its viceroy (and assumed heir). Eugène’s first child was born in 1807, named after her grandmother Joséphine, and was given the titles Princess of Bologna and, a few years later, Duchess of Galliera. She was also given a residence in the city of Bologna itself, the Palazzo Caprara, built by the Caprara family in 1603. The house often hosted illustrious guests, aristocrats on tour, popes touring their provinces, and Napoleon himself when he visited Bologna in 1796, and again in 1805, when he decided to purchase it. In 1823, Joséphine de Beauharnais married Oskar, Crown Prince of Sweden, and in 1837 (shortly before becoming king and queen) they sold the Galliera property and the palazzo in Bologna to Raffaele De Ferrari, who was then created Duke of Galliera in 1838. The papal title was confirmed by the King of Sardinia in 1839. The Palazzo di Galliera was ultimately sold in the 1920s to the local government and, renamed Palazzo Caprara, houses the Prefecture of Bologna.

the medieval tower at Galliera, next to the town cemetery (photo Threecharlie)
Palazzo di Galliera, or Palazzo Caprara, Bologna

The King of Sardinia countered the Pope’s gift of a duchy by creating a principality of Lucedio, based on a secularised abbey De Ferrari had purchased in 1861. The abbey was an ancient Cistercian foundation from the twelfth century located in the Monferrato area of the Piedmont, north of the Po in the province of Vercelli. This too is rich agricultural land, famous for its rice, so was a good acquisition for the new Duke and Duchess of Galliera. It too had previous Napoleonic connections, having first been given by the Emperor to his brother-in-law, Prince Camillo Borghese. His possession threatened by the King of Sardinia, Borghese sold the estate in 1818 to Marchese Gozzani di San Gorgio, whose heir accrued debts so sold it to De Ferrari. After the latter’s death in 1876, his son ceded it to a cousin, Marchese Andrea Carrega Bertolini, who was allowed the keep the title ‘Prince of Lucedio’ by the King of Italy. In 1937, the ‘principality’ (as it is still called) was repurchased by descendants of the Gozzani family who maintain it today as a rice farm and tourist attraction.

the old abbey buildings of Lucedio and flooded rice fields

The most important acquisition made by the ducal couple was not in Italy, but in Paris: the Hôtel de Matignon—aka the Hôtel Galliera. Whether it is just a coincidence that the Genoese duke and duchess were attracted to the other former grand residence of the Grimaldis (themselves having Genoese roots)—the other one (the Hôtel de Monaco) having been built by another Brignole-Sale princess—I do not know. This building was older, constructed when the Faubourg Saint-Germain was first being pushed as the new fashionable area of the French capital in the first years of the eighteenth century. The initial proprietor, the Prince of Tingry, spent so much on it, however, that he had to sell it before it was completed, in 1725, to Jacques Goyon, Comte de Matignon. He gave it to his son, the Duc de Valentinois, husband of Louise-Hippolyte Grimaldi, heiress of the principality of Monaco. The Hôtel de Matignon became an anchor for high society on this side of the Seine. Confiscated in 1793, then restored in 1802, the Grimaldis sold the Matignon and its large park (said to be the largest private garden in Paris) to Anne-Eléonore Franchi, a dancer and former mistress of Emperor Joseph II. Prince Talleyrand lived here at the height of his power under the Empire, hosting four lavish dinners a week as Minister for Foreign Affairs, then in 1811 sold it to the Emperor. Transferred into royal hands in 1814, Louis XVIII exchanged it for the Elysée Palace with his cousin the Duchess of Bourbon, who then left it to her niece Adélaïde d’Orléans. After the revolution of 1848, the Orléans properties were confiscated once again, and there was a plan to make it the seat of the executive for the Second Republic, but it was sold instead to the Duke and Duchess of Galliera in 1852. In the mid-1870s, the Duchess opened up the Hôtel de Matignon as a residence for the Count of Paris (the pretender ‘Philip VII’) and his family, clearly demonstrating her sympathies as an Orléaniste; but when he hosted a huge event here celebrating the marriage of his daughter Princess Amélie to the Crown Prince of Portugal in 1886, the French public was outraged at such public ostentation and a new law of banishment was passed, exiling the House of Orléans once again. Angry with the French state for this, the Duchess of Galliera donated the Hôtel Galliera to the Emperor of Austria who made it his embassy. Confiscated once more during the First World War as enemy property, by 1922 it was fully owned by the French state and, again known as the Matignon, was developed as the residence for the head of state, at that time called the President of the Council of Ministers, but since 1958, the Prime Minister. It retains this function today.

the Hôtel de Matignon or the Hôtel Galliera (photo Frederic de Goldschmidt)

The Duke and Duchess of Galliera had one son, the intriguingly unusual Philippe de Ferraris. Born in Paris in 1850, and godson of the recently exiled King and Queen of the French, he had Italian nationality at first, then was naturalised French and then took Austrian citizenship after he was adopted by an Austrian count and became to use the name Philipp von Ferrary or Philippe de La Renotière de Ferrari. He renounced the succession to his father’s titles at this point (1876), but not his father’s money, and devoted himself to creating one of the greatest collections of stamps in the world, eventually worth millions. The philatelist also taught history at Paris’ School of Political Science (known today as ‘Sciences Po’). Despite his mother’s donation of the Hôtel de Matignon to the Austrians, her will stipulated that he would always maintain an apartment there, but when war broke out he—being an Austrian citizen—fled abroad to neutral Switzerland where he died in 1917. The French government seized the stamp collection and sold it for an enormous sum.

Maria Brignole-Sale De Ferrari, Duchess of Galliera with her son Filippo

As a widow from 1876, the Duchess of Galliera became a major philanthropist. She founded the Galliera Hospital in Genoa and an orphanage in the Paris suburb of Meudon. She decided to donate land she and her husband had acquired in Paris’ sixteenth arrondissement (not far from the Trocadéro) to build an art museum to house the Brignole-Sale collections—amongst the finest in the world. But, outraged by the law of exile for the Orléans in 1886, she changed her will and left the art to the city of Genoa. She had long before opened up the two main family palaces in Genoa, Rosso and Bianco, to the general public, and now they had the means to become two of the most celebrated galleries in Europe. The building of the Musée Galliera had already been started however, and given to the city of Paris. It was completed in 1894, and used for temporary exhibitions of modern art, industrial art and so on; then in 1977 it was rechristened as the Palais Galliera, housing the City of Paris Museum of Fashion.

the Palais Galliera, Paris (photo Joe deSousa)

Have left major donations to France, Italy and Austria, perhaps the most interesting donation—for a site about dukes and princes—was the legacy of the duchy of Galliera itself to the youngest son of the late King Louis-Philippe, now acting as an adjunct member of the royal family of Spain: Antoine d’Orléans, Duke of Montpensier. Part II of this post will shift the focus to the later dukes of Galliera, of the House of Orléans-Montpensier.

Princes of Gwynedd: the last bastion in Wales

Since 1301, the heir to the English throne has borne the title Prince of Wales, but this title had been forged by several previous generations of native Welsh princes, notably of the House of Aberffraw: the princes of Gwynedd. From their base on the Isle of Môn, better known in English as Anglesey, they dominated the northwest corner of Wales for centuries, and stretched their influence along the north coast towards Chester and down the west coast into Ceredigion. At times their authority extended deep into the interior to include the principality of Powys, assuming the title ‘Prince of all the Welsh’ or even ‘King of the Britons’.

Criccieth Castle, one of the seats of the princes of Gwynedd on Cardigan Bay (photo James@hopgrove)

There are few physical remains of this dynasty, either in written records, visual representations of its princes, or its chief residences. The chronicles that are used by historians of Wales are often incomplete or contradictory. For a dynastic historian like me, their history is a good lesson in how family did not always mean harmony, and fraternal bloodshed and betrayal in this dynasty was rampant. Yet there are also stories of bravery and skill here, preserving Welsh culture in the face of generation after generation of invasions by Danes and Saxons, and later by Normans, to whom they ultimately fell. The House of Gwynedd is usually divided into two dynasties: the first, the House of Cunedda, established in the 450s (or the Maelgyning, named for Maelgwn in the sixth century), and the House of Aberffraw, who took over in the 840s and ruled until 1283.

coat-of-arms of the last princes of the House of Gwynedd, from the Chronica Majora, 13th century

Cunedda is one of the earliest figures to feature in Welsh history though provable details are scarce. He was said to be a warrior chieftain from northern Britannia, living in the area called Manaw Gododdin, today roughly the area known as the Lothians in Scotland. Invited by the people of northern Wales to help them either defend against raids by marauders from the Isle of Man, or to drive out Irish people who had settled the northwest coasts. Irish influence in this period was heavy, and it is thought the name of the Llŷn Peninsula, just south of Anglesey, might mean ‘people from Leinster’. Some stories say Cunedda was the grandson of a Roman officer stationed in Britain, while others say he was a descendant of Beli Mawr, an ancient British king from before the Roman conquest, and from other British kings who had ruled the ‘Old North’ (Hen Ogledd) in the Roman era, including Coel Hen (‘Cole the Old’), who reigned in the fourth century (and who has become confused over time with the nursery rhyme figure of Old King Cole). Both of these origin narratives could be true, and it seems that he and his sons did retain Roman customs and the Christian faith. His epithet, ‘Wledig’, is possibly a translation of a Roman title (an official of a region, like a ‘count’ in the original sense of that word), but may be more simply a British word for ruler or lord. Cunedda and his successors used the title rhi, ‘chief’ or ‘small king’, or the grander title of brenhin, ‘king’. To keep with the theme of dukes and princes in this website, I’ll pass over much of the earlier period of independent kings in Gwynedd, and focus more on the later period, after about 1060, when its rulers adopted the lesser title of tywysog or prince.

Cunedda from a 15th-century manuscript history of Britain by Geoffrey of Monmouth (National Library of Wales)

The state established by Cunedda in about 450 stretched from the Llŷn Peninsula and Ynys Môn in the west to the area around Conwy on the north coast and over the Clwyd mountains to the river Dee in the east. His kingdom eventually took the name Gwynedd, possibly from the Old Irish weidh-n (forest people, wild people) or weina (chase, pursue). In Latin, it was rendered Vened or Venedotia. Môn was probably from the same root as manaw (‘mountain island’) as used for Mannin, aka the Isle of Man. In contrast, Anglesey derives from the much later Viking name ‘Ongli’s Island’, which could be named for a chief called Ongli or for ongull (‘hook’), related to our word ‘angle’…so not Angle as in those people who came to Britain with the Saxons.

Gwynedd at its widest extent, from Merioneth in the southwest to the river Dee in the northeast, and including several of the major princely sites mentioned in this post, notably Aberffraw on Ynys Môn (Anglesey) in the northwest

Cunedda died about 460 and divided his realm amongst his sons and grandsons, who gave their names to the historic principalities of northwest Wales: Ceredig ruled Ceredigion (Cardigan) and Meirion ruled Meirionydd (Merioneth). The eldest son Einion Yrth (‘the Impetuous’) retained Gwynedd and defeated the remaining Irish on Môn and consolidated his family’s rule there. He was followed in about 500 by his son, Cadwallon Lawhir (‘the Long-Haired’), who established his family’s superiority over the other Cambrian or Welsh states. Cadwallon’s nephew, Cynlas Goch (‘the Red’, also called Cuneglasus), established a separate line who ruled in the eastern parts of Gwynedd known as Rhos, which continued until about 800. Another interesting, but probably mythical, member of the dynasty at this early stage, was Saint Non or Nonita, who was a daughter or daughter-in-law of King Ceredig, a nun raped by another Welsh prince resulting in the birth of Saint David, the patron saint of Wales. Saints Einion and Seiriol are also attached in some medieval genealogies to the line of Rhos. The Ceredigion branch of the dynasty carried on as rulers of a separate kingdom until it was absorbed by Gwynedd towards the end of the ninth century.

There are few sites with visible remains to visit from these early kings of Gwynedd, Rhos and Ceredigion. The court of Cadwallon Lawhir may have been a site today called Caswallon’s Llys (llys being the Welsh word for ‘court’, essentially an undefended great hall palace rather than a fortified castle) on the northeast corner of Ynys Môn atop a hill, Mynydd Eilian (‘mount of Saint Eilian’)—today only visible due to geophysical surveys undertaken in 2009. It is also thought he had a stronghold further to the east on the north coast near the mouth of the Conwy river: Bodysgallen (Bod Caswallon), though there is no real evidence connecting him to this site. The current Bodysgallen House is a manor built in the seventeenth century by the Wynns and held by the Mostyns from the later eighteenth century.

the view atop Mynydd Eilian (photo Pampuco)

Just next door is the ruined hill fort of Deganwy, built by King Maelgwyn in the sixth century on a volcanic plug overlooking Conwy Bay (and today offering great views to the later Norman Conwy Castle). The Earl of Chester later built a Norman castle here in the 1070s, but little is known about it, in part because Prince Llywelyn Fawr rebuilt and expanded it in the thirteenth century, and this castle in turn was destroyed in 1241 by Dafydd II to prevent it from falling into English hands. Henry III of England nevertheless captured the site, rebuilt a castle, then saw it destroyed again in 1263 by Llywelyn II. Conwy Castle was then built on the other side of the estuary in the 1280s by Edward I, and Deganwy lost any strategic value. Very little remains today.

Deganwy, with a view across to Conwy Castle (photo Angeanderson)

Also nearby, on the other side of the peninsula (and thus overlooking the Colwyn Bay) was the llys of the Rhos branch of the family, Dinerth, on a hill called Bryn Euryn—again, only known today following an excavation of 1997. At the foot of this hill was a more recent building, Llys Euryn, held by a local lieutenant for the princes of Gwynedd in the thirteenth century who became the ancestor of the Tudors.

the ruins of Llys Euryn, as painted in 1795

Some of the kings in this early period stand out. Maelgwyn Hir (‘the Tall’), was known as a great warrior, but not necessarily in a good way: Gildas, one of the only contemporary sources, describes him as a ‘vicious sinner’. He and Cuneglasus are listed as amongst the worst kings of the Britons. Yet Maelgwn is also known as a founder of many churches and abbeys, perhaps even the episcopal see for Gwynedd, Bangor, in about 530—at first as a monastery for Saint Deiniol and only later (perhaps the eighth century?) as a bishopric.

Maelgwyn Hir, from the same 15th-century manuscript as above

By mid-century, the principality was weakened by conflict with another British state, the Kingdom of Strathclyde, which perhaps led to Gwynedd’s early defeat by the new invaders, the Saxons, at the Battle of Chester, 613. In a resurgence, Cadwallon II raised a large army and took over much of the north of Britain, sacking York in 633, but died in battle a year later. He and his son, Cadwaladr, are considered the last two ‘high kings’ of Britain (‘Rex Brettonum’). The latter was very religious (known as Fendigaid, ‘Blessed’) and strengthened the church; he built a church on the southwest coast of Môn (near the later royal site of Aberffraw), now called Saint Cadwaladr (in the village of Llangadwaladr), where his grandfather Cadfan’s tomb can still be viewed (from about 625). The Blessed Cadwaladr was a folk saint (not formally recognised by Rome), but a powerful one with a messianic aura—the last British king to drive out the Saxons (under the banner of his iconic red dragon), and destined to return someday to do the same once more (Y Mab Darogan, ‘the child of destiny’). According to Geoffrey of Monmouth (always very free with his imagination in his chronicles), towards the end of his life Cadwaladr renounced the throne and went on pilgrimage to Rome where he died in 682. The Tudor Dynasty revived his messianic cult and claimed descent from him to help legitimise their claims to the English throne.

the banner and dragon of Cadwaladr

The royal genealogy in the next generations gets a little fuzzy: Idwal, Rhodri, Cynan, Hywel and Caradog all involved themselves in wars versus their Saxon neighbours to the east, but also against other Welsh princes to the south and the inevitable fraternal or avuncular struggles that continued to weaken the dynasty. Several kings are said to have died due to the ‘treachery’ of their brothers. The capital shifted to Caernarfon, an old Roman fortification, Segontium, on the river Seiont. The newer Welsh name derived from y gaer yn Arfon, ‘the fort in the land across from Môn’. A new castle was built after the Norman conquest by the Earl of Chester in the 1080s—and also one at the other end of the Menai Strait called Aberlleiniog, on Anglesey near Beaumaris. Caernarvon was re-captured by the prince of Gwynedd in 1115, but was taken again by the English in 1283, when Edward I rebuilt it once more into the magnificent castle we see today, one of the great models of medieval castle building, and part of the ring of castles in North Wales, including Conwy and Harlech. Here Edward’s son was crowned Prince of Wales in 1301.

But that’s getting ahead of ourselves by quite a bit. The last of the House of Cunedda, King Hywel, died in 825, leaving a daughter (or perhaps a niece), Ethyll (or Esyllt). Some historians consider she may have been invented by later medieval genealogists to legitimise the takeover of Gwynedd by the House of Aberffraw.

Merfyn Frych (‘the Freckled’) (also known as ‘the Opressor’), was said to have married Ethyll. Or she was his mother, married to Gwriad who was said to be descended from the ancient kings of Britain (and from them back to Adam) or to the kings of the Isle of Man (there is often confusion in these sources between Man and Môn). Historians gave his dynasty the name Aberffraw after his principal seat on Môn.

an imagined Merfyn Frych from the Historie of Cambria, 1584

Aberffraw became the new seat of the principality when Merfyn’s son Rhodri moved the llys here from Caernarfon in about 870. A new fortress-residence replaced an older palace that had been built at the mouth of the Ffraw river by Cadwallon Lawhir in the fifth century. It remained the capital until the thirteenth century—later rulers used the title ‘Prince of Aberffraw’. Much was dismantled in the 1320s to provide stone used to rebuild Caernarfon Castle, and the rest was destroyed soon after. There was never again a castle here, and the land was eventually owned by the Meurig (Meyrick) family of Bodorgan Hall, and later the Owens of Penrhos—then various families until it was part of the estate of the Marquis of Anglesey (in the Paget family) and then Viscount Bulkeley (of Beaumaris).

Aberffraw village today

Another llys, east of Aberffraw and closer to the Menai Straits, has been identified at Rhosyr. Little is known about it, but it was in use in the mid-thirteenth century and has only recently been purchased and excavated by Cadw, the historic preservation organisation for Wales.

Llys Rhosyr, Great Hall (photo Robin Leicester)

Rhodri Mawr (‘the Great’) was given this nickname as he inherited both Gwynedd from his father in 843, and Powys from his mother in 855, and eventually Ceredigion by marriage to its heiress in 872. So by the 870s, he was effectively prince of all of northern and central Wales. He was killed in 878 in battle against the Mercians, however, and his sons divided up his realm once more: Anarawd the eldest got Gwynedd, Merfyn got Powys, and Cadell got Ceredigion then added the Kingdom of Deheubarth (South Wales) by the end of the century—his descendants were called the Cadellings or the House of Dinefwr, named for their principal seat in Carmarthen (Anglicised as Dynevor). They ruled South Wales, contesting supremacy over Wales with the House of Aberffraw (and particularly passing Powys in the centre back and forth), until they were conquered by the English in 1197. They will receive a separate blog post

Medieval Wales

The House of Aberffraw usually claimed primacy over the other Welsh princes. But not always: Idwal of Gwynedd took on the Saxons under Edmund I, but was killed in 942, so his cousin Hywel Dda (‘the Black’), King of Deheubarth, took over in Gwynedd and Powys—once more unifying all of Wales, and famously codified Welsh law (Cyfraith Hywel), and agreeing to a firm border with King Athelstan of Wessex in 930. The laws may actually date from a later period, but Tudor legal experts liked to cite them again to stress Henry VII’s descent from Rhodri Mawr and Hywel Dda.

Idwal’s sons were restored to their place in Gwynedd in 950, and the next reigns are absolutely bloody. Nearly all of the kings blinded or murdered or exiled their brothers or nephews. They also sometimes paid tribute to the Saxon kings and sometimes were deposed by them. King Iago was defeated in 1039 by Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, who came from a different Welsh line altogether (founded by Seisyll, of unknown origins, who married a princess of the House of Aberffraw) His son Cynan lived in exile in Ireland forged an alliance through marriage with the daughter of Olav, King of Dublin, But his return to Wales in 1050 with a fleet of Irish ships failed and he returned to exile. The reign of Gruffydd ap Llywelyn had weakened by his getting involved in the politics and dynastic struggles of his Saxon neighbours, and he was defeated by Harold Godwinson in 1063. As is well known, Godwinson was then himself defeated by William, Duke of Normandy, in 1066 and a new era began for Wales as well.

Another dynasty arose in the north, with Bleddyn ap Cynfyn of Powys taking the throne of Gwynedd, with the backing of Edward the Confessor, in 1063, then passing this on to his nephew Cynwrig, who was driven out in 1079 when the House of Aberffraw re-established itself in Cynan’s son Gruffydd. By this point, the title used was prince not king, as Anglo-Norman overlordship was usually acknowledged. Indeed, North Wales was mostly occupied by the Normans in the 1080s-90s, with troops advancing from their base in Chester. Gruffydd was captured in 1081 and spent several years in Chester Castle. In 1092, the Normans attempted to install one of their own as Bishop of Bangor, but he was driven out. Gruffydd escaped and fled back to Ireland once more in 1096 but soon returned with Irish and Danish troops and secured his rule over Môn. In 1101 he negotiated terms with King Henry I of England, who recognised his rule here, plus Llŷn and the north coast as far as the mouth of the river Conwy. Further east, the King created a new buffer zone, the Welsh Marches, firmly under Norman control. Gwynedd enjoyed relative peace and a period of rebuilding in the astonishingly long reign (well, for medieval Welsh history!) of Prince Gruffydd ap Cynyn, who patronised the arts (according to legend one of the earliest official also sponsored an Eisteddfod, the festival and competition of poetry and music), and rebuilt royal residences and churches in stone, notably Bangor Cathedral, 1120-39, where eventually he would be buried. In 1116, Henry invaded again, with support from Alexander I of Scotland, and forced Gruffydd to do formal homage and pay a heavy fine. Peace was maintained as the Prince attained old age, and his rule was extended somewhat further to the south, into Meirionnydd, 1136, due to a dynastic dispute there. That same year, he joined with the princes of Powys and Deheubarth to defeat the Normans at Cardigan Castle.

some early coffin lids found in Bangor Cathedral, sketched in the 18th century

When Prince Gruffydd died in 1137, his sons Owain and Cadwaladr took over the rule of Gwynedd and much of northern Wales jointly. An older son, Cadwallon, had been killed fighting a few years before, and his son Cunedda’s claims were stifled by his uncles who had his eyes pulled out (and he was otherwise ‘emasculated’). Of the remaining co-princes, Cadwaladr made a name for himself early, by travelling to England and supporting Lady Matilda in her fight to gain the throne, and helped her capture her rival Stephen of Blois in 1141. Two years later, he murdered an ally of the House of Aberffraw, the King of Deheubarth, so was exiled by his brother Owain to Ireland—he returned to the Menai Strait with a Norse fleet and civil war seemed imminent, but the threat to Wales from the Norman marcher lords brought them back together. Tensions re-emerged between the brothers several times until 1153 when Cadwaladr fled to England, where he had kin as the brother-in-law of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Hereford, and joined forces with King Henry II (Matilda’s son).

Meanwhile, Prince Owain had tested the peace with Henry II by expanding his domains eastward along the north coast of Wales, to Rhuddlan and the Clwyd valley (what is now Denbighshire). So in 1157, Henry II arrived with an army, joined by the Earl of Hereford and Prince Cadwaladr, but was pushed back. Nevertheless, Owain agreed to renew homage, restore lands to his brother, and Rhuddlan to the Earl of Chester. Peace held for about five years, until Owain invaded England through Shropshire (this time with his brother at his side). Again there was a hasty English retreat, and Henry II for a time abandoned his plans to definitely conquer Wales.

Yet by the 1150s Owain was using the title tywysog (prince), not brenhin or rex, since he recognised de jure the sovereignty of the King of England—though he was de facto independent. His supremacy amongst the Welsh princes was asserted as the senior descendant of Rhodri the Great. Owain ap Gruffydd was considered one of the greatest rulers of medieval Wales, but when he died in 1170, the Welsh principalities were again torn apart by another civil war and another English invasion.

Owain ap Gruffydd, Prince of Gwynedd, by Hugh Williams, 190

After three years, most of the realm was taken by force by Prince Dafydd I, who brutalised and imprisoned his brothers Maelgwn and Rhodri, as well as illegitimate half-brothers Hywel and Cynan. Also named as a sibling is Prince Madoc who was said to have sailed west to escape the dynastic chaos and ended up discovering North America. This is a character I knew very well in my childhood, as a protagonist in one of my favourite novels, A Swiftly Tilting Planet, by Madeleine L’Engle, along with his supposed descendants who bore the names Maddox and Mad Dog. There was indeed a long-enduring legend amongst the English colonists of the seventeenth and eighteenth century that there were Welsh-speaking natives living in the interior of the Carolinas, and was linked to a Cherokee legend of the ‘moon-eyed people’ who were fair haired and pale-skinned, but contemporary sources list no Madoc amongst the sons of Owain ap Gruffydd.

one of many books about the legend of Prince Madoc

Dafydd’s rule was supported by Henry II of England, and in 1174 he married the King’s half-sister Emma of Anjou. In the early 1190s, his brother Rhodri escaped from prison, and with the aid of his nephews Gruffydd and Maredudd, the sons of Cynan of Merioneth, and Llywelyn, the son of his eldest brother Iorwerth Drwyndwn (‘broken nose’), he defeated Dafydd at the Battle of the Conwy Estuary and drove him out of Gwynedd and into exile in England (where Henry II had given him and his wife some estates in Shropshire).

Llywelyn became Prince of Gwynedd, while his cousins retained Merioneth as his vassals. He had been raised in exile in Powys (his mother’s homeland), and shortly after 1200 he had annexed much of that principality as well as Ceredigion to the south. He too allied with the English royal family through marriage to Joan, daughter of King John in 1205, who soon gave him an heir, Dafydd. But there was also an elder son, Gruffydd, born from an earlier marriage with a daughter of Ragnald, King of Man, that was much contested and then annulled since he had consummated the relationship before she was thirteen.

The name Llywelyn is still today synonymous with independent Wales and distinct in its Welshness—and its difficulty to pronounce for many given its initial double ll (a ‘voiceless alveolar lateral fricative’, as I’m sure we all know). Unlike David, Owen or Griffith, it did not have an easy Latin or English version for medieval chroniclers or early modern historians (though some used ‘Lewis’). The name is said to have evolved from Lugubelinos, a compound of two British deities Lugus and Belenus (the gods of harvest and healing).

a modern statue of Llywelyn Fawr in Conwy (photo Rhion Pritchard)

Llywelyn Fawr (‘the Great’) had a long and stable reign. His early alliance with King John was tested when the latter invaded in 1211, despite attempts by Joan to intervene. But the Welsh princes came together and by 1216 the English were driven out, and Llywelyn recognised as paramount amongst the princes. Two years later, John was dead, and Llywelyn made a new treaty with his son Henry III by which he was formally recognised as ‘Prince of Wales’. The next decade of peace allowed him to develop his court at Aberffraw as a ruling prince, using his wife’s knowledge of court etiquette and culture. He also tried to establish a more stable form of government, by hosting other Welsh princes in a regional council, usually at an abbey such as Strata Florida (inland from Aberystwyth). The Prince used this period to build or refortify many castles all around Gwynedd. It’s worth pausing to look at some of these castles, built in a new style for Wales, inspired by Norman designs.

Castell y Bere was first. Built on the top of a ridge deep in the mountains, it was intended to control the population of Merioneth and secure Gwynedd’s southern borders. Edward I expanded it in the 1290s, then it was retaken by the Welsh in 1294, burned and mostly abandoned—a ruin by the sixteenth century. Today the site is managed by Cadw.

Castell y Bere (photo Gareth James)

Criccieth was built later, in the 1230s on a headland overlooking Tremadog Bay (the northern part of Cardigan Bay). It was built to be the administrative centre of this region (known as Eifionydd), and to displace a nearby Norman castle, Dolbenmaen. Captured by Edward I in 1283, Criccieth Castle was improved by the English, and often used as a prison. It was a ruin by the 1450s, and eventually sold by the Crown to the 2nd Baron Harlech (of the Ormsby-Gore family), and since the 1930s has also been managed by Cadw.

Criccieth from the air (photo Llywelyn2000)

Moving inland into Snowdonia, Dolbadarn Castle was built at the base of Llanberis Pass, which allowed travellers or troops to cross from the west coast to the Conwy valley which then linked up to roads along the north coast. The large round tower allowed the Prince to wield authority as lord of the mountains, not just the islands and coasts of northwest Wales. It was one of the strongest castles of the Welsh princes, and would be Daffyd II’s last holdout in the final days of Welsh independence in 1283. After that, it lost importance and fell apart. A ruin by the eighteenth century, Dolbadarn became a popular subject for Romantic painters like Turner. It was owned by the Duff baronets until it too was gifted to Cadw in 1941.

Dolbadarn (photo Cadw)

On the far side of the Llanberis Pass was Dolwyddelan Castle, which Prince Llywelyn built to replace an older castle nearby, Tomen, which had been built by his father and was probably his birthplace. Dolwyddelan sits on a ridge commanding the upper reaches of the river Lledr which flows into the river Conwy, and guards the main east-west route through the interior. Like the others, it was taken by Edward I in 1283, and eventually granted by the Crown to the Wynn family of baronets (whose base was the neighbouring Gwydir estate). From the Wynns, it passed to their descendants the lords Willoughby de Eresby, and from them into the custody of Cadw in 1930.

Dolwyddelan Castle (photo Jeff Buck)

By 1235, Gwynedd was at peace, with a ring of advanced castles from Cardigan Bay to the Conwy estuary, and a sophisticated court at Aberffraw. Prince Llywelyn promoted his younger (unquestionably legitimate) son Dafydd as his heir, ‘Prince of Aberffraw and Lord of Snowdonia’—and obtained the formal nod of approval from King Henry III, to whose court he travelled with his mother (Henry’s half-sister) to do formal homage.

Llywelyn and his sons Gruffydd and Dafydd

Yet the best laid plans rarely hold, and after Llywelyn the Great died in 1240, King Henry invaded and forced Dafydd II to give up claims to all lands outside Gwynedd, and for good measure captured his half-brother Gruffydd, taking him to the Tower of London, where he died in 1244 trying to escape. Dafydd did have some successes repelling English forces, then died suddenly in 1245, and was buried at the Abbey of Aberconwy, founded by his father (who is also buried there), now in the heart of the town of Conwy.

Dafydd II’s death once again re-opened the succession question—always a thorny point in a land that had not yet embraced primogeniture. His half-brother Gruffydd’s older son Owain Goch had also been a prisoner in London with his father while the younger, Llywelyn, had remained in Wales as an ally of his uncle. Now Henry III negotiated a shared rule between Owain and Llywelyn, and fraternal peace lasted until 1253. Another younger brother, Dafydd, reignited the conflict, and he and Owain took on Llywelyn in 1255 and lost. Owain was imprisoned for about twenty years (probably in Dolbadarn Castle), while Dafydd remained on the loose, and led another rebellion against Llywelyn II in 1263, after which he was exiled to England (only to return for another try in 1274).

Prince Llywelyn II ‘the Last’ reunited all the Welsh principalities in the 1260s-70s. His seat was Garth Celyn, in the village of Abergwyngregyn (or just Aber). The small village on the north coast, midway between Conwy and Bangor, has two sites that are claimed as Gwynedd’s last princely capital. A manor house, Pen y Bryn, up on a hill, with structures that date back to the seventeenth century at least (and hints of earlier stonework), and a mound down in the valley closer to the church. There are calls for the Welsh government to purchase the site of Garth Celyn (‘Holly Enclosure’), but which one?

Pen y Bryn in the foreground and the village of Abergwyngregyn (the church and hill in the trees beyond) (photo Llywelyn2000)

In 1275, Llwelyn married Eleanor, the daughter of Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester—a significant alliance given de Montfort’s role as leader of the baronial opposition to the Crown in England in the 1260s. Further to this, Eleanor’s mother was Eleanor of England, Henry III’s sister and aunt to the new king from 1272, Edward I. Thanks to these familial links, after Edward invaded North Wales in 1277, a new settlement was reached, the Treaty of Aberconwy, named for the monastery noted above, by which Llywelyn secured Gwynedd and the title Prince of Wales for himself, while his brothers were also given lands to rule: Owain in Llŷn and Dafydd in the interior valleys east of the Conwy river (while England secured the north coast and the Dee estuary). Dafydd was also married to a significant English noblewoman, the daughter of the Earl of Derby. The most significant clause of the Treaty was that when Llywelyn died, his principality would be ceded to the English crown.

Llywelyn II, Prince of Wales, seated beside Edward I and Alexander, King of the Scots, at a meeting of the English parliament (from Wriothesley Garter Book, c1530, Royal Collection)

Though he had been a key ally of the English, Dafydd rejected this idea and fanned other Welsh princes to join him in attacking English outposts in Spring 1282. Llywelyn did not want war but felt obliged to support his brother and defend Welsh independence—and was killed in an ambush near Builth Wells in Powys in December; his head was taken to London. Llywelyn’s wife Eleanor also died in 1282, so their only child, an infant daughter Gwenllian, was left as an orphan. The last of her house, she was captured by the English and spent her life in Sempringham Priory in Lincolnshire. Always treated with courtesy as a princess of Wales, she died in 1337.

Dafydd III continued the fight for several months. In the winter of 1282-83, he was increasingly encircled in Snowdonia, and held on to the fortress of Castell y Bere until April 1283. Captured in June, he was taken to Rhuddlan Castle (by this point English military headquarters in North Wales), then to Shrewsbury and executed. His head was also sent to London. The remaining males of the family were captured and sent to Bristol Castle. The daughters, like Gwenllian, were sent to convents in England for the rest of their lives. Dafydd’s eldest son Llywelyn died a prisoner in 1287 (about twenty years old), while his younger brother Owain, the titular ‘Prince of Gwynedd’, continued to live in Bristol Castle until his death in 1325.

By the Statute of Rhuddlan, 1284, Gwynedd was annexed by the Kingdom of England and was reorganised into six shires (Anglesey, Carnarvon, Merioneth and Flint, alongside two in the south, Cardigan and Carmarthen). The rest of Wales would become the ‘Principality of Wales’, governed locally by English marcher lords, and overall by the King’s heir based (at least nominally) in Ludlow—ironically located not in Wales but Shropshire—with the future Edward II first being crowned as Prince of Wales at Caernarfon in 1301. This remained the situation until all of Wales was fully incorporated into England by Henry VIII in 1536.

There were later Welsh revolts: 1294 by Prince Madoc of Merioneth; 1372 by Owain Lawgoch; then 1400 by the famous Owain Glynŵr (a member of the House of Powys). Of these, Owain Lawgoch (‘red-handed’) is relevant here, as a descendant of Llywelyn the Great via his illegitimate son Gruffydd. He was born at Tatsfield Manor in Surrey, educated in the art of war in the French army in the 1350s-60s, and during a pause in the fighting of the Hundred Years War, planned armed expeditions to Wales to reclaim his ancestral throne, with the backing of the French king (1372-74). Referring to himself in French as Evain de Gales,he issued manifestos, but never got far with his invasions and was assassinated by an English agent at Mortagne in Poitou in 1378. He is reckoned to be the last of the House of Aberffraw.

the seal of Owain Lawgoch (National Library of France)

There are lines of Welsh nobles who trace their lineage back to these princes, notably the line of Wynn of Gwydir. Their family genealogies linked them to one of the uncles of Llywelyn the Great, Rhodri, Lord of Anglesey (d. 1195); they owned an estate, Gwydir, in the high uplands of the river Conwy in Snowdonia, from the mid-fourteenth century to the eighteenth. The Wynns were one of the most significant families of north Wales during the Tudor and Stuart periods, and their manor house, built around 1500, still stands. The most prominent was Sir John Wynn, Sheriff of Carnarvonshire and Merionethshire between 1587 and 1603, and a member of the Council of the Marches of Wales—created Baronet Wynn of Gwydir by King James I in 1611. The last baronet died in 1719, and the heiress took the estate to the family of the Duke of Ancaster and his heirs in the family Willoughby de Eresby.

Gwydir Manor (photo Dara Jasumani)

The principality of Gwnyedd vanished, but the name was resurrected as a modern county in 1974. In 1996 it was reduced, so that today it includes Merioneth and Carmarthen, but not Anglesey. All three do retain the name Gwynedd however as a ‘preserved county’ for ceremonial purposes. The most famous castles in Wales are the ‘big four’ (Caernarvon, Beaumaris, Harlech and Conwy), but these were built by Edward I and are part of the later history of the region. For now the northwest corner of Wales remains part of the United Kingdom—though a genuine point of interest as one of the best places to hear Welsh spoken in everyday life—but who knows, perhaps someday the Blessed Cadwaladr will return to drive the Saxons away from these shores.

a reconstruction of the Llys of Llywelyn Fawr at the Museum of Sat Fagans near Cardiff

Eggenberg: The rise and fall of a princely house

In the world of dukes and princes, most family histories stretch across centuries. Families usually needed to accumulate stories of valorous deeds and a reputation of living like princes before they were formally created as such. They also needed sufficient wealth, acquired over generations, to sustain such a dignity. But not always. Sometimes one man could rise from the lower ranks to the very top of the aristocratic hierarchy in just one lifetime. But often fate is cruel (or just?) and cuts the dynasty down after only a short time of existence. Such is the case of the Eggenbergs of Styria. They were princes of the Holy Roman Empire only between 1623 and 1717—not even a century.

Eggenberg Palace outside Graz, Austria (photo Ralf Roletschek)

The meteoric rise was down to two main factors: great wealth, generated by savvy financial dealings with the Habsburg family, and the personal relationships that were established with those same Habsburgs, especially one, Ferdinand II, as he transitioned from a junior prince to Emperor.

The Eggenberg story does start a little earlier. Ulrich Eggenberger was a municipal judge in the city of Graz, capital of the Duchy of Styria, in today’s southern corner of Austria. He appears in documents starting in the 1430s, as a financier to several of the local noble families, and in addition making a fortune from winemaking in the town of Radkersburg, a few miles to the southeast (today right on the border with Slovenia—still an area known for its wine). There is a castle directly across the river Mur, now in Slovenia, so it uses the Slavic name, Radgona. Built in the 1150s by the rulers of Styria to defend the border with Hungary, Radgona Castle was taken by the Hungarians in the late fifteenth century, then returned to the Habsburgs. The Eggenberg family purchased the castle in 1623, and it passed in the eighteenth century to another local noble family, the Herbersteins, who sold it on in 1789. In a separate country to Radkersburg since 1920, Gornja Radgona (or Schloss Oberradkersburg) was nationalised by Yugoslavia and was used as a school. Since the 1990s, the castle has served as a museum and event venue.

Oberradkersburg overlooking the river Mur (now Gornja Radgona, Slovenia)

By the time of Ulrich’s death in 1448 his family was amongst the wealthiest bourgeois elites in the province. Where the name came from is unclear—was there an ‘egg mountain’ in the area? A lot of Austrian names with ‘egg’ in them (like Schwarzenegger) derive from a corner or sharp edge (eck, and an early form of the name was in fact Eckenberger). There was an earlier noble family of Eggenberg who flourished in Upper Austria in the fourteenth century, but there is no connection.

Ulrich’s eldest son Balthasar was a great entrepreneur and came to be one of the leading financial officers for Emperor Frederick III, who preferred to reside in Graz rather than Vienna. By the 1450s, Balthasar Eggenberger was appointed Master of the Imperial Mint for Styria (and for neighbouring provinces Carinthia and Carniola), and, as expected, he began to build in the city to demonstrate his family’s position there: a hospital in the centre with his family’s crypt in its chapel, and in 1460 a house on the western outskirts of town, at the foot of the mountains. He was a real wheeler-dealer and amassed a huge fortune, but in order to keep up with the shifting economy of the troubled times, he had to devalue silver coins, causing a crash—he fled to Venice. The Emperor needed him, however, so he was recalled … But in time they fell out again (for reasons not known) and Balthasar died in prison in Graz in 1493.

One reason Frederick probably did not trust Eggenberger was his open dealings with Matthias Corvinus, king of Hungary and rival of Frederick. In about 1479, Eggenberger adopted a coat-of-arms of a crown supported by three ravens, and it was fairly clear this was a reference to his patronage by Corvinus, whose name means the raven.

the Eggenberg arms, with its three ravens

After Balthasar’s fall, the senior branch of the family laid low while the junior branch rose in stature. In 1543 they acquired a large castle south of Graz, Ehrenhausen. This castle was just a few miles upstream from Radkersburg, also overlooking the Mur river valley. A twelfth-century keep had been held by the lords of Pettau from the thirteenth to the fifteenth century. Once in the hands of the Eggenbergs, its defences were strengthened, important now that this region was an active frontier between Habsburg lands and Ottoman occupied Hungary. The castle passed to the senior Eggenberg line in the mid-seventeenth century, then to the Leslie family in the mid-eighteenth and finally to the Attems counts until the 1880s. It too remains in private hands today.

Ehrenhausen Castle on the Mur (photo C Stadler, Bwag)

In the later sixteenth century, Rupprecht von Eggenberg of Ehrenhausen became a prominent military commander on the southeast frontier of the Habsburg lands. In Graz, he was appointed Captain of the Guard of the archducal court, but he made his name on the military frontier: in 1593, he led Styrian troops to defeat an Ottoman army at Sisak, and again in 1595 at Petrija (both in Croatia). He was rewarded with post of Colonel-General of the Croatian frontier, then two years later promoted to Colonel-General of the Artillery, and in 1598, earned the noble title of freiherr (baron) for himself and all of his house. Before he died in 1611, Rupprecht built a mausoleum at Ehrenhausen, a beautiful gem of baroque architecture, but made specific criteria for burial there: only those family members who remained faithful to the Catholic Church (in an era when many of the nobility were not), and who had attained the rank of general—which his nephew Wolff did, and was also buried here in 1615. The Ehrenhausen line died out in 1646.

Rupprecht von Eggenberg (photo by the author)

The promotion to baronial status within the nobility also benefitted the senior line of the Eggenbergs, now represented by Hans Ulrich, who, unlike his cousins, was in fact raised a Protestant, but smartly converted back to Catholicism and ingratiated himself with the ruler of Inner Austria (Styria, Carinthia, Carniola), Archduke Ferdinand, once more as a financial advisor. Swiftly becoming indispensable, the Archduke named Hans Ulrich Governor of Carniola and a member of his privy council in 1602, then Grand Master of the Styrian court in 1615. Four years later, Eggenberg’s services were crucial in financing Ferdinand’s election as Holy Roman Emperor, and he continued to raise the funds needed for the Emperor to wage the Thirty Years War. He was rewarded with a position on the Imperial Privy Council and the post of Lord Chamberlain, and in 1625 he was appointed to Ferdinand’s old job, Governor of Inner Austria—an unprecedented appointment for someone whose family had only recently been members of the urban bourgeoisie. The Emperor rectified the situation somewhat by raising Hans Ulrich in rank from baron to Prince of the Empire in 1623, and augmenting this further with the title of duke in 1628, a title attached to the castle and extensive estates of Krumau in Bohemia.

Hans Ulrich, 1st Prince of Eggenberg

Krumau is today the popular Czech tourist attraction of Český Krumlov. This huge fortress on the upper Vltava river in South Bohemia was built in the 1250s by the Vitkovci family (also called the Krumlov family), and after 1302, passed to a cadet line of their clan, the Rosenbergs. They gave it a makeover in Renaissance style in the sixteenth century, then died out in 1611. The Habsburgs took it over, then as we’ve seen, granted it to Hans Ulrich von Eggenberg, in gratitude in part for the efforts Eggenberg was making to enable the Emperor-King to re-catholicise the nobility of Bohemia. His heirs gave the castle another, baroque, makeover in the 1660s. From the early eighteenth century, the castle of Krumau or Krumlov (called ‘Český’ to distinguish it from another Krumlov in Moravia) belonged to the Schwarzenberg princes, who will have their own blog post. Since 1947 it has been nationalised and is maintained by the Czech state.

the Castle of Krumau (today Krumlov) painted in 1882

Though the 1st Prince of Eggenberg now had this magnificent treasure in Bohemia, he preferred to live in Styria. In order to live in the style of a prince and an imperial governor, he made plans to enlarge his family’s home outside Graz on a truly colossal scale. Much of the plans for a new baroque palace were inspired by the Escorial in Spain, with its grid plan and four towers, but these plans were modified significantly by his son, who had been inspired by noble palaces in Rome and also by the mystical forces of numerology. The numbers of windows and rooms and doorways all connect to 365 days of the year, 24 hours of the day, 60 minutes in an hour, and so on. There was also a theme of planets and planetary deities running through the building. Eggenberg Palace was completed by Hans Ulrich’s grandson in the 1660s, who added in particular the stunning ceiling paintings that still exist, thanks to the fact that the heirs to the Eggenbergs in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (the Herbersteins) weren’t that interested in this property, so left it mostly intact. The Hebersteins kept the property until 1939 when they sold it to the state of Styria and it became part of the Joanneum, a cluster of museums in Graz originally founded by Archduke Johann in 1811. Because of its preservation of its original interiors, the Eggenberg Palace is now part of the wider classification of Graz’s old town and museums as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. An interesting detail is that the original fifteenth-century house was not destroyed, but enveloped, so the old Gothic chapel is still visible, as are some of the old rooms in which Balthasar Eggenberger did his business as Master of the Mint—and these rooms today house a rich collection of coins.

the Hall of the Planets, the central ceremonial room in Eggenberg Palace (photo Allie Caulfield)

Now one of the richest men in all the Habsburg domains, Hans Ulrich, 1st Prince of Eggenberg also acquired lands in Slovenia, for example, Pettau (now Ptuj) in an area that at the time was the southernmost part of Styria. The castle here had been owned by the lords of Pettau until their extinction in 1438, then the Schaunburg family. From the 1550s, it was held directly by the Habsburgs, who sold it to Eggenberg in 1622. It eventually passed to the Leslie family like their castle of Ehrenhausen. Pettau was later held by the Dietrichsteins, then the Herbersteins (who seem to have scooped up so many inheritances in this region) until, after it was transferred from Austrian to Slovenian control after World War I, it was nationalised by Yugoslavia in 1945.

Pettau Castle (Ptuj, Slovenia) painted in 1687 when it was owned by the Eggenbergs

By 1630, Hans Ulrich was one of the most important statesmen in Europe, the premier minister of Emperor Ferdinand II. When he died in 1634, however, he had still not acquired the one thing he needed to be regarded as a true prince of the Holy Roman Empire: an ‘immediate’ fief. This meant a territory that was not held in vassalage to any other prince but directly from the emperor. This was the chief qualification needed for someone created a prince to be accepted by the other princes of the Empire and allowed a seat in the princes’ chamber in the Imperial Diet. This was therefore Hans Ulrich’s son Johann Anton’s chief goal. Unlike his father, he didn’t have the same political ambitions. But he was, like his father, very close to a Habsburg prince: Ferdinand II’s son Ferdinand III who succeeded as emperor in 1637. Johann Anton, the 2nd Prince of Eggenberg, had already taken over much of his father’s ceremonial role, as Governor of Carniola and Privy Councillor from 1635, and Chamberlain of Inner Austria. He organised Ferdinand II’s funeral in Graz (unlike most Habsburgs, Ferdinand did not wish to be buried in Vienna), and was given the tremendous honour in 1637 of travelling to Rome (in a brilliant golden carriage) to formally announce Ferdinand III’s imperial election to Pope Urban VIII. The golden carriage is still on display today at Český Krumlov.

Johann Anton, 2nd Prince of Eggenberg
The Golden Carriage in Český Krumlov, and Eggenberg portraits behind (photo Mosbatho)

One plan Johann Anton had for securing his position as a prince of the Empire, was to marry into one of the genuinely old princely families. So in 1639 he married Princess Anna Maria of Brandenburg-Bayreuth, a Hohenzollern whose father was Margrave of Bayreuth, a younger son of the Elector of Brandenburg. She was also the sister-in-law of the Elector of Saxony. The only encumbrance was her religion—she remained a Protestant but did agree to raise their children as Catholics. Yet even with these electoral princes as close relatives, the Prince of Eggenberg’s admission in the princely chamber of the Diet was still blocked.

Anna Maria of Brandenburg-Bayreuth

Meanwhile, Johann Anton accumulated more lands, with the extinction of the Ehrenhausen branch in 1646. And while he continued his father’s plans to develop Eggenberg Palace, he lived at the Eggenberg townhouse in the city of Graz, in the aristocratic quarter at the foot of the Schlossberg, in what is today called the Herberstein Palace and houses the Graz History Museum (also part of the Joanneum).

Eggenberg Palace in Graz, now Herberstein Palace (photo Andi oisn)

Finally, the issue of the princely rank was resolved by the Emperor granting Eggenberg part of the old imperial county of Görz, in two parts consisting of the old fortress town of Gradisca and the ancient port city of Aquileia, in the region of Friuli (now in Italy). In 1647 it was renamed the Princely County of Gradisca; it gave Johann Anton a genuinely sovereign territory to rule over: about 20 villages, though not all contiguous, several enclaved within Venetian territory. Eggenberg paid the Emperor a huge sum of 200,000 guilders in cash, and relieved him of a sizeable debt the Habsburgs owed the Eggenberg family. Yet the formal recognition of his princely title was still withheld by the other princes, until finally they relented for his son in 1654.

Gradisca had been formerly part of an independent county of Gorizia or Görz, which straddled the frontiers between the Habsburg lands of Carinthia and Carniola and the Republic of Venice. Much further back, both towns were part of an ecclesiastical estate, the Patriarchate of Aquileia, an ancient Roman city that became an early centre for Christianity in the northern Adriatic: an archbishopric by the fourth century, and a patriarchate, self-proclaimed during a temporary schism with Rome in the 550s. Venice conquered the entire area in 1420, and fortified the city of Gradisca (which took its name from the Slavic word for fortress, since the population here was a mix of Italians and Slovenes) against potential attacks by the Hungarians or later the Ottomans. The County of Görz had maintained its independence, but its line of counts died out in 1500 and the territory was added to the Habsburg domains, as was Gradisca and the now much less important city of Aquileia in 1511. It was this that was granted to the Eggenbergs in the 1640s. After 1717, Gradisca returned to the Habsburgs and was reintegrated into the province of ‘Gorizia and Gradisca’ which it remained into the twentieth century. In 1921, Gradisca was ceded to the Kingdom of Italy.

The castle at Gradisca, Italy (photo Vid Pogacnik)

So by the late 1640s, the Eggenberg family bore a much more complex coat of arms: aside from the three ravens of Eggenberg, we see five red roses on silver for Krumau, a gold anchor on blue for Pettau, another anchor (with a cross on top) for Gradisca, a silver eagle on red for Aquileia, and a silver eagle on a divided red and blue field for the County of Adelsberg, another possession in what it now Slovenia (today called Poslojna).

the full Eggenberg arms, with Krumau and Gradisca

Johann Anton, the 2nd Prince, died suddenly in 1649, with an incomplete will. His widow Anna Maria of Brandenburg held the family together and ruled in the name of her young sons until they came of age in 1664. She retired to Ödenburg (now Sopron, Hungary) where toleration for Protestants was higher—and an Eggenberg Palace remains in that city. The Dowager Princess made sure that both sons would be represented in a division of their father’s estate, and even that her daughter received an equal portion for her dowry—which enabled her to marry the Prince of Dietrichstein (one of the other great success stories of the Austrian high nobility in this period). In 1666, both sons married, one a Schwarzenberg and one a Liechtenstein. This was a tight circle of the grandest Austrian princely houses.

The trouble with the unfinished will was what to do with Gradisca—as a territory with a vote in the Diet it could not be divided. After several years of haggling, it was agreed that the eldest son, Johann Christian, would receive the Bohemian lands centred on the Duchy of Krumau, as well as the princely county of Gradisca (and thus the seat in the Diet). His brother Johann Seyfried received the Styrian and Slovene lands; he was the one who finally brought to fruition their grandfather’s vision for a princely palace outside of Graz. Here in 1673, Johann Seyfried received the huge honour (and as always, the enormous financial burden that went with it) of hosting Emperor Leopold I on the eve of his wedding to his cousin Archduchess Claudia Felicitas of Tirol. He continued to spend lavishly and soon was teetering on bankruptcy. He was forced to sell many of the lands in Slovenia and was ultimately saved by outliving his older brother and thus inheriting his share of the Eggenberg estates.

Johann Christian, 3rd Prince of Eggenberg, with his princely crown

Prince Johann Christian had built up his reputation as a grand noble administrator in South Bohemia, purchasing lands to augment the Duchy of Krumau, and aggrandising the castle and its gardens. He and his wife Maria Ernestina von Schwarzenberg turned it into a real princely court with its own permanent theatre. In Prague the princely couple resided in the former Lobkowitz Palace, confiscated in the 1620s and granted to Hans Ulrich von Eggenberg in 1631. Like Český Krumlov, the Eggenberg Palace in Prague passed to the Schwarzenbergs and is today known by that name.

Johann Christian died in 1710, thus reuniting the Bohemian and Styrian inheritances in the person of his brother, but only briefly, as he was followed to the grave by Johann Seyfried, now 4th Prince of Eggenberg, in 1713. The Eggenberg family came crashing down almost immediately. The latter’s son, Johann Anton II, the 5th Prince, died in 1716, as did his own very young son Johann Christian II in 1717. Four deaths in seven years. A devout Catholic might wonder what the family had done to offend God. The old nobility perhaps sneered that this was justice for such upstarts and that piles of money simply cannot replace ancientness of noble lineage.

Johann Seyfried, 4th Prince of Eggenberg, with a monastic foundation he made in Graz
Johann Anton II, 5th Prince
Johann Christian II, 6th Prince, in Hungarian dress, with Eggenberg Palace in background

Princess Maria Eleonora von Eggenberg remained as heiress of the properties in Styria, Bohemia, Friuli and elsewhere. She married three times but had no children. Her ultimate heir when she died in 1774—over half a century later—was her third husband, the Count of Herberstein. As noted above, his family was more interested in their properties elsewhere in Austria, so Eggenberg Palace was mostly unlived in except for a few weeks each year. The castle of Krumau/Krumlov did not pass to the Herberstein family—it had remained the property of the Dowager Princess Maria Ernestina, widow of Johann Christian, who left it to her own family, the Schwarzenbergs, and they continued to own it until the 1940s. Other properties, as we’ve seen, passed to the family of Maria Eleonora’s second husband, Count Leslie. Gradisca returned to direct Habsburg rule. Most of the Eggenberg residences, in Graz, in Prague and elsewhere, now bear other names. Only the grand palace outside Graz maintains their grand legacy.

Eggenberg Palace (photo by author)

Montesquiou: The oldest noble family in France made popular by musketeer d’Artagnan

In June 1673, the French Army laid siege to the Dutch city of Maastricht, a key crossing point of the river Meuse—they would take and hold the city for several years, aided by an English force commanded by a young Duke of Monmouth and the future Duke of Marlborough, John Churchill, and with the participation of the King, Louis XIV, himself, and the King’s brother, Philippe, Duke of Orléans. It was a glorious victory worthy of the Sun King. But one of his most celebrated commanders was killed during the siege, the Comte d’Artagnan, a captain of the Musketeers. It is believed he was buried in the Church of St Peter and St Paul in Maastricht’s western suburb of Wolder, where Louis XIV’s camp was during the siege—and in March 2026, bones were discovered under the main altar during repair work being done to that church which archaeologists and historians think may be the remains of the famous musketeer. Samples have been sent to labs for testing, so we shall see what they discover…

The Siege of Maastricht, 1673 (National Trust)

The famous d’Artagnan at the Siege of Maastricht of 1673 was not the dashing young hero immortalised in the Three Musketeers novels by Alexandre Dumas—he would have been about 63 years old. Nor was his name in fact d’Artagnan, but Charles Batz de Castelmore. He had ‘borrowed’ the name from his mother, Françoise de Montesquiou d’Artagnan, and it would retain some of its notoriety as a name in the decades after his death through use by his first cousins, Joseph de Montesquiou, another captain of the Musketeers, and Pierre de Montesqiou, known as the Maréchal d’Artagnan.

D’Artagnan in Maastricht (photo Pahles)

So the name that is central of this blog post, and which qualifies d’Artagnan for inclusion within this website for dukes and princes, is Montesquiou. It linked him also to one of the most celebrated military commanders of the age, also a distant Montesquiou cousin, Blaise de Monluc. It does not, however, connect him to one of the most prominent philosophes of the Age of Enlightenment, Charles-Louis de Secondat, Baron de Montesquieu (d. 1753), who was from a family of magistrates of Bordeaux. The much more aristocratic Montesquiou dynasty, also from the south of France, in fact claimed to be linked to one of the most ancient dynasties in France, the counts of Fezensac, and through them, to the House of Gascony, who have roots as far back as the eighth century, or possibly even the seventh.

The early history of the House of Gascony is fragmentary and sometimes contradictory. As Gaul fell to various invaders after the collapse of the Roman Empire, the southern part of the old province of Aquitania was invaded by Vascons, a tribe of people from Iberia who later were known as Basques south of the Pyrenees and Gascons north of the mountains. In the conflicts between the Franks, the Burgundians and the Visigoths, they tried to forge their own territory, and around 600 were governed by a duke appointed by a Frankish king. This duke or military governor was probably a Frank or a Gallo-Roman, but in 670 we see a duke called Lupus who may have been a Vascon, and he changed the name of the region from the Roman Novempopulania to Vasconia. He extended his rule north to the Garonne river and fought off Visigoths to the east—chroniclers write that he wanted to be named king, but was murdered in 675 before achieving this goal.

Vasconia in the 7th Century (with modern Toulouse in the east and Bordeaux in the north)

The name Lupus means ‘wolf’ in Latin, and later became Loup in French and Lobo or Lope in Spanish (in Basque, wolf is otxoa). A century later, a second Loup (from the same family?) allied with the Franks to preserve his country from the invading Umayyads and swore an oath of loyalty to Charlemagne in 769—who then reversed the tide and pushed the Arabs back across the mountains in the 770s-80s.

In the 820s, Loup III Centelle, ‘Prince of the Gascons’ rebelled against the Franks and asked the King of Asturias for protection. The King appointed the Prince’s son Sance as governor or consul. Sance (or Sancho) already had a reputation for fighting against Saracens in Iberia, and the grateful Gascon people proclaimed his family’s rule would be hereditary. In the 830s-40s, he and his successors fought off several waves of attacks by Vikings (Northmen), but succeeded in capturing the city of Bordeaux, which became the new capital of Vasconia or Gascony. The name Sance derived from the Roman Sanctius, a holy person. Using the patronymic naming systems prevalent in those days, sons of Lope would be named Lopez, while sons of Sancho would be Sanchez—two of the most common Spanish surnames were born.

A few years later Sance II reunited different parts of Gascony, both the inland valleys and along the Atlantic coast, and thus revived the title ‘duke’ in about 851, establishing a de facto independent state in defiance of any loyalty to the Frankish empire. His son (or at least relative) Garcia Sanchez (or as he’s known in French, Garsie-Sance, or Gassia Sans in Gascon) was called Duke of Gascony, but also Count and Marcher Lord of the Ocean Coast and Count of Bordeaux. When he died in about 925, his lands were divided into three parts for his sons. The eldest, Sance-Garcie, continued the line of dukes of Gascony until 1039 when the duchy passed into the possession of their more powerful neighbours to the north, the dukes of Aquitaine (of the House of Poitiers), whose heiress, Eleanor of Aquitaine, took it to the House of England through her marriage to Henri of Anjou in 1152. The third son, Arnaud-Garcie received the county of Astarac and founded a lineage that ultimately included—or so they claimed—the family of Saint-Lary, which will have a blog post due to the Duke of Bellegarde. The middle son, Guillaume-Garcie (or Guillermo), was given parts of central Gascony called the counties of Fezensac and Armagnac. The latter split off in the next generation and would form the House of Armagnac, the most powerful medieval noble family in southern France, and for a time in all of France (the fifteenth century), gaining ducal status as dukes of Nemours, before dying out in 1503.

Gascony in 1150, showing counties of Armagnac, Fezensac and Astarac

The County of Fezensac, with its capital at Vic-Fezensac (vic simply being a local word for ‘main town’), is a region today known for its amazing Gascon cuisine, with duck, rabbit and garlic, not mention foie-gras and Armagnac brandy (today’s Département of the Gers). Its counts in the tenth and eleventh centuries left behind records as donors to local bishops of Condom and archbishops of Auch. According to later genealogical assertions, Count Guillaume (d. 1074) divided his estates between his eldest son Aimery, who received the county, and Aysin, who received the lordship of Montesquiou. The elder line did not survive long and the county of Fezensac was re-integrated with the county of Armagnac from about 1140. The line of Montesquiou, in contrast, continues to the present. Whether the connection is genuine or not, it was formally recognised as so by Louis XVI in 1777, and the name was changed to Montesquiou-Fezensac.

The lordship took its name from a fortified village in the County of Armagnac, southwest of Auch, which seems to have taken its name from a local Occitan (or Gascon) word esquiu (‘savage’) to indicate a wild hill; but it may be that there was a family with this savage name who attached it to a hill on which they built their castle, the Mont d’Esquiou. There is only a trace of an eleventh-century castle here—it was last occupied in the 1570s, then passed to the Monluc family (see below). The ruins were sold and demolished during the Revolution, and its materials reused in local building projects.

the village of Montesquiou today (photo Florent Pecassou)

The coat-of-arms of the early Montesquiou lords is seen in accounts of the Crusades, and is quite simple, one of the best marks for genuine ancientness in French heraldry: two red balls or roundels on gold. They were titled as barons from at least the 1090s, and were vassals of the counts of Armagnac.

the Montesquiou arms, seen in the château of Courtanvaux (photo David Merrett)

With lands so close to the borders with Spain, some of the barons crossed the Pyrenees and gained military glory in service of the kings of Navarre in campaigns against the Moors. One of these, Aysinus (or Assieu), was rewarded with the title ‘son and canon of the Cathedral of Auch’, which became attached to the family’s barony of Anglès (or Saint-Jean d’Anglès) which was considered one of the four baronies of Armagnac—succeeding generations thus held a prominent place in the local estates and in the metropolitan church of Auch. Early prominent churchmen include a bishop of Tarbes (in one of the Pyrenean valleys to the south) in the mid-twelfth century, and Pierre de Montesquiou, Bishop of Albi and Cardinal (d. 1262). A generation later, a nephew with the unusual name of Pictavin became Bishop of Bazas then of Albi (both a bit to the north, in Aquitaine), then also a Cardinal (d. 1355). While the Cardinal’s older brother continued the main line, the younger brother Odet, married Aude de Lasseran, in 1318, heiress of the lordships of Massencomme and Monluc. The former was local, in the County of Fezensac, and formed a separate cadet line (extinct in the fifteenth century); while the latter was located further north in the Agenais (also in Aquitaine). This family, who used the surname Lasseran-Massencomme, leads to the Marshal Blaise de Monluc, or so his family said, as we will see below.

The history of the Montesquiou barons in the next two centuries largely follows that of their overlord the count of Armagnac, fighting with him versus the counts of Foix or the kings of England or France. In the 1470s, the inheritance was divided and two branches formed: the elder based at Montesquiou and the latter at the château of Marsan. The senior line died out in 1569 with the death of François, Baron de Montesquiou, a gentleman in the household of the Duke of Anjou (the future King Henri III), and Captain of his Swiss Guards. His sister and heir Anne married Fabien de Monluc, thus connecting that family more genuinely to the Montesquious.

Fabien de Monluc was the son of one of the most famous military commanders in French history, Blaise de Monluc, and later published genealogies asserting that he was himself descended from the Montesquiou family, in a branch who split off in the fourteenth century and changed their name to Lasseran de Massencome. Changing your name to match that of your principal fief was not uncommon in the Middle Ages, but it does make the genealogists’ job a bit more complicated. This story was accepted by official royal genealogists in the eighteenth century, but by the nineteenth century it had come under doubt, and now it is thought that the Monlucs were a minor gentry family from the Armagnac region who made a good marriage at the start of the sixteenth century to the heiress of the lordship of Estillac, a bit further to the north in the Agenais, near the mighty Garonne river, and attached their name to its castle. Today it is called the Château de Montluc, spelled with a t probably by mistake, assuming it applied to a ‘mount’, whereas the actual spelling Monluc seems to have derived from an earlier Roman name bono luco (and the b changed over time to an m). The thirteenth-century fortification was expanded and re-fortified along modern military lines by the Maréchal de Monluc in the 1570s, then in the 1640s passed to his heirs in the Escoubleau de Sourdis family. It was sold several times in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, and is still in private hands.

the château of Monluc at Estillac (photo by Mossot)

Blaise de Monluc was born around 1500 and by his twenties was in service of King François I in his wars in Italy, acted as military governor of the city of Siena—which he defended against an Imperial siege in 1555—and by 1558 was appointed Captain-General of the Infantry of France by Henri II. He maintained his prominence as a client of the Guise family leading Catholic troops in the Wars of Religion, and was appointed Lieutenant-General of Guyenne in 1562. He became an almost independent force in the southwest of France, besieging Protestant strongholds, like La Rochelle in 1573, gaining a reputation for brutal but efficient acts. He was shot in the face in 1570, so he wore a mask for the rest of his life. When Henri III came to the throne in 1574, he rewarded Monluc’s long and illustrious career—serving five reigns—with the baton of a Marshal of France. This was a reward, but also in a sense an indication that it was time to retire, since accusations of brutality and corruption were mounting. He therefore set about recording his memoirs as a soldier in the Commentaries, published in 1576 and ever since regarded as a sort of ‘soldier’s bible’. He died a year later.

Blaise de Monluc, Marshal of France

The Marshal had two brothers, Jacques and Jean. Jacques, known as ‘the Young Monluc’ was also a soldier, a captain of the royal men-at-arms, lieutenant for the King in the Piedmont, and governor of the city of Albi. He is most interesting for this website as he acquired a curious title ‘Prince of Chabanois’, one of several small lordships to take such a title in the region contested by the English and French kings during the Hundred Years War (Poitou, Angoumois, Saintonge, Limousin). Now spelled Chabanais, the ancient lordship in the Angoumois (today’s Charente) had belonged to various families but rose to prominence under the Rochechouarts in the fourteenth century, then a branch of the counts of Vendôme, who used the title ‘prince’. As with the château of Monluc above, this property passed to the Escoubleau family in the seventeenth century, then the Colbert family (for whom it was more formally erected into a marquisate, the princely title never being official) who held it until the nineteenth century. Its tenth-century castle was mostly a ruin by that point, and its vestiges were removed in the 1890s to make way for public buildings in the town.

Brother Jean was also interesting: as a younger son, he pursued as career in the church and eventually was elected Bishop of Valence and Die (in France’s southeast) in 1553. He was better known, however, as a diplomat, and was sent by François I to Constantinople in 1540, Venice, 1545, and later by Catherine de Medici to Poland to help get her son Henri elected as king there in 1572-73. He was one of the Queen-Mother’s most trusted advisors, and like her, was more interested in maintaining the peace than defending orthodox Catholicism in France. So unlike his brother Blaise, he was accused of defending or even supporting Protestant heresy, and was removed from his diocese by the Pope in 1574.

Jean de Monluc, Bishop of Valence

The Bishop also had an illegitimate son, who followed in his uncle’s footsteps to become a military commander. Jean de Monluc, Seigneur de Balagny, was a commander for the Catholic League in the north of France, and when he agreed to come to terms with King Henri IV, the King rewarded him with the rank of Marshal of France, 1594, and an appointment as governor of the city of Cambray. This city recently occupied by the French held the rank of prince-archbishopric, so Maréchal de Balagny took the unprecedented title ‘Prince of Cambray’. This meant the Monluc family now held two principalities! This presumption, and his heavy-handed government, led the citizens of Cambray to revolt and aided the Spanish in driving out the French by 1595—it would remain in Spanish hands until definitively attached to France in 1678. Balagny continued to integrate himself into the King’s inner circle by taking as his wife Diane d’Estrées, the older sister of the King’s mistress Gabrielle. He died in 1603 and left descendants, titled Marquis de Balagny (based on the lordship in Beauvasis, north of Paris), who died out later in the century.

Jean de Monluc, Marshal de Balagny, Prince of Cambray

Blaise de Monluc also had sons. Most of them predeceased him in various battles—one, Pierre-Bertrand, in attempting to take French troops to Congo, Mozambique or Malindi on the east coast of Africa to set up a trading post. Stopping first at Madeira, he briefly took it over, but was killed when the Portuguese, fearing French incursions into their sphere of trade, retook the island in 1568. The youngest son, Fabien, had been willed the principality of Chabanais by his uncle the Bishop of Valence, but was killed in 1573 while serving as governor of the fortress of Pignerolo in Piedmont.

It was this Fabien who had married Anne, Dame de Montesquiou, which led their son Adrien to put forward the idea that the Lasseran de Massencome de Monluc family was in fact already related to this more prestigious Gascon family. He published a genealogy in the 1620s with the aim to secure his eligibility to be appointed to the highest royal orders (St-Michel and St-Esprit). According to the royal genealogist Père Anselme writing later in the century, Adrien had been nominated to receive the St-Esprit in 1613, but for some reason did not receive it, and by the 1630s, had fallen out with Cardinal Richelieu and was sent to the Bastille, accused of plotting a coup. Earlier in his life he had been a favourite of King Henri IV, a fellow Gascon, one of the court gallants of this very randy court known as ‘les Intrépides’ or ‘les Dangereux’. Back in 1592, he had married very well, to Jeanne de Foix-Carmain, heiress of a very valuable property in the Lauragais, the grain-basket of Languedoc, the county of Carmain (today spelled Caraman). He was also named governor of the county of Foix, at the time still fairly independent from the Kingdom of France.

Adrien de Monluc de Montesquiou, Prince of Chabanais, Count of Carmain

Carmain (or Carmaing) had long been a prominent lordship, on the road between Toulouse and Béziers, elevated to a viscounty for the Lautrec family in 1310, then to a county for the Foix in the 1480s. It would pass to Adrien’s daughter who used the illustrious styling Jeanne de Montluc de Foix, Comtesse de Carmain, Princesse de Chabanais, Dame de Montesquiou. In 1612, her father had arranged her marriage to Charles d’Escoubleau, Marquis de Sourdis, from a family on the rise in the west of France, notably through Charles’ brother François, the warrior Cardinal-Archbishop of Bordeaux, and they inherited all of these territories. Carmain, however, was sold in 1670 to Pierre-Paul Riquet, from Béziers, who built the famous Canal du Midi. His descendants ultimately inherited the Principality of Chimay in 1804, and are now one of the leading families of the Belgian nobility as princes of Chimay and dukes of Caraman.

So, while the barony of Montesquiou had passed out of the family’s possession, the junior branch was based in the lordship of Marsan. Its château was built by the Montesquious in the twelfth century in the town of that name, northeast of the regional capital of Auch. Damaged across centuries of conflict with the counts of Armagnac or the archbishops of Auch, the family rebuilt it entirely as a more grandiose country house in the 1750s in a neoclassical style. In 1906 it was given by the now senior branch to another junior branch, whose descendants still live there.

the château de Marsan in Armagnac

In the 1480s, the House of Montesquiou-Marsan divided again into several more sub-lineages: Marsan for the eldest, then Salles (in the Lauragais), and others. We will return later to the line of Marsan, which includes the ducal line, and focus first on the line of Salles, which became the line of d’Artagnan in the 1540s when Jacquette d’Estaing, Dame d’Artagnan (daughter of a wonderfully named Sauvage d’Artagnan), willed her estates to her husband, Paul de Montesquiou, Seigneur de Salles, an equerry to Henri II d’Albret, king of Navarre. This lordship thus passed to his son from a second marriage.

The lordship of Artagnan was even further south, in the County of Bigorre, one of the semi-independent counties in the Pyrenees that were only fully brought under control of the French monarchy in the seventeenth century. Known as Artanhan in Occitan, it took its name possibly from an ancient Gaulish word for bear, artos, which formed a personal name Artanius. It doesn’t seem to have had a castle, though I’ve found some old postcards showing a house in Artagnan claiming the famous Musketeer was born here, probably because the character in Dumas’ novel comes from Tarbes, which is nearby, whereas the real d’Artagnan was likely born in the château of Castelmore (see below).

Artagnan in Bigorre

One of the lordships in this wild and remote region of Bigorre that claimed to be a ‘free lordship’, with no feudal overlord at all (much like we can see with the ‘principality’ of Bidache for the Gramont family) was Tarasteix, acquired by Henri de Montesquou d’Artagnan in 1664. He had been appointed royal governor of the Château of Montaner in Béarn in 1630 and the King’s Lieutenant in the city of Bayonne. More importantly in terms of his family’s rise to prominence, he had married the sister of the Marshal de Gassion, one of the leading French commanders of the 1630s-40s. It was probably Gassion who supported the early career of Henri’s sister’s son, Charles de Batz de Castelmore.

The Batz family were merchants in one of the towns near Auch, Lupiac, and Charles de Batz’s grandfather was ennobled for holding an office in the local magistracy and bought a nearby château called Castelmore in order for his family to ‘live nobly’ (which was in itself one of the qualifications for being noble in the early seventeenth century). The château was only recently constructed, not a medieval fortress, and it remains mostly unaltered today, still in private hands (though reports suggest it has recently been sold to owners who want to open it up for Three Musketeers tourism).

the château of Castelmore (photo by Jibi44)

In about 1630, young Charles travelled to Paris using his mother’s name and her connections—his older brother Paul was already serving in the Musketeers there, alongside three other Gascon noblemen whose names sound suspiciously like Athos, Porthos and Aramis. The newly minted d’Artagnan joined the Musketeers, the elite unit of the French Guards formed as part of the royal household in the 1620s which fought in the various military campaigns of the 1630s-40s. He then shifted his focus to acting as a secret agent and diplomat for Cardinal Mazarin (for whom he also served as one of the gentlemen of his household), until his Musketeer regiment was re-formed in the late 1650s. D’Artagnan lived in a house in Paris on rue du Bac, in the fashionable faubourg Saint-Germain, immersed himself in the world of the literary salons there, and became increasingly attached to the young Louis XIV, with whom he travelled through Gascony on his way to the Spanish border to meet his new wife, the Infanta Maria Teresa. The King thus gave this trusted soldier the task of arresting Nicolas Fouquet, suspected of government embezzling on a spectacular scale, and of personally guarding him for the several years of the trial of the century. In 1667, d’Artagnan (now sometimes using the title ‘count’) was named Captain-Lieutenant of the First Company of Musketeers, which meant he was its real commander, since the nominal captain was the King himself. He was appointed governor of the newly captured city of Lille in 1672, but was pulled away to attend the King during the siege of Maastricht, where, as we have seen, he was killed. His life inspired a novel by Gatien de Courtilz de Sandras, published in 1700, which was then used by Dumas to write his novels in the 1840s.

D’Artagnan, as seen on the frontispiece of the book by Courtilz de Sandras

The name d’Artagnan was kept in the public eye by the famous Musketeer’s first cousin, Joseph de Montesquiou, Comte d’Artagnan, who became a Musketeer in 1669, then rose through the ranks until he too was Captain-Lieutenant of the First Company in 1702, and led his brigade in various campaigns of the War of the Spanish Succession. After the war he was appointed governor of the southern city of Nîmes in 1719, and died a decade later.

An even more prominent career was forged by another first cousin, Pierre de Montesquiou d’Artagnan, who was sent to Paris to be looked after by d’Artagnan in 1660 and was established in the King’s household as a page, then joined the Musketeers in 1666. He too rose through the ranks of the Guards to become a Maréchal de camp in 1691, and was named governor of the city of Arras and lieutenant-general of the surrounding province, Artois—French since the 1660s, but still a sensitive frontier zone during the Nine Years War. When at court, Pierre was close to the King’s second wife, Madame de Maintenon, and the King’s favourite son, the Duke of Maine. When the next war broke out (the Spanish Succession), his closeness to this inner royal circle led the King to entrust him with the mission of guiding his grandson, the Duke of Burgundy, in his first command, leading French armies into Flanders. In 1709, Montesquiou commanded one wing of the infantry at the Battle of Malplaquet and shortly afterwards was named a Marshal of France, the highest rank in the military—he was known, possibly to honour his famous cousin, as the Marshal d’Artagnan. During the disastrous winter of 1710, when everything froze and France was brought to its knees, he was left in the field guarding the Flanders frontier against potential invasion by the Allies. After the war, he was given the prestigious post of Governor of Brittany, 1716-20, and was appointed as a member of the Regency Council, 1721, which ran the Kingdom on behalf of the young Louis XV. The Marshal retired with full honours and died at his country estate in the southern suburbs of Paris, Le Plessis-Picquet.

Pierre de Montesquiou, Marshal d’Artagnan

Le Plessis-Picquet had been built in 1410 by a Parisian financier and counsellor of Charles VI, Jean Picquet. It passed through the hands of various Parisian magistrate and parliamentary families, notably the Potier (a senior family of the Paris Parlement), until it was acquired by Jean-Baptiste Colbert, Louis XIV’s first minister—it was conveniently located between Colbert’s estate at Sceaux and the estate of Meudon, soon to be the residence of the Dauphin. When Pierre de Montesquiou acquired it in 1699, it was thus in the heart of the royal suburbs, a short drive to Versailles, and made it easy to socialise with his friends the Duke and Duchess of Maine who had established their court and salon at Sceaux. Montesquiou’s heirs would sell the château in 1755, and it passed through many more hands—including briefly to the Duke of Massa, one of Napoleon’s dukes, 1814-17—until it became the home of the Hachette family of Parisian publishers from 1853 (and took the name Château de Hachette). They sold it in 1915 to a government agency, and today it serves as the Hôtel de Ville for the town of Le Plessis-Robinson. When I lived in Paris, I had to follow the signs for ‘Robinson’ every day as I headed home on the RER B, and I always thought it such a strange name for a French town.

Plessis-Picquet and its neighbours in 1751, with Meudon at top and Sceaux at right
Le Plessis-Picquet today as Hôtel de Ville of Plessis-Robinson (photo AlSepPhoenix)

An even more oddly named estate had been acquired by Joseph de Montesquiou d’Artagnan: Mauperthuis, from malus, ‘bad’ and pertusium, ‘passage’. This estate in Brie, the region to the east of Paris, was in fact rich agricultural land, and brought the next generation great wealth. Joseph never married and had no sons, but he had five nephews, who also inherited lands from their uncle the Marshal d’Artagnan (who also had no surviving sons). All five forged advanced careers in the French military, including two in the Musketeers. One of these, Louis, Comte de Montesquiou, nearly added a third princely title to the family’s collection, by marriage in 1713 to Louise-Alphonse de Berghes, Princesse de Râches (an estate in Flanders that had been genuinely elevated into a principality by the King of Spain before this territory was lost to France in the 1670s). Soon after she died, heavily pregnant, she willed the principality to her husband, but the courts overruled this and returned it to her paternal heirs. Louis became Sub-Lieutenant of the First Company of Musketeers in 1729 and died in 1743. His brother’s son, Anne-Pierre, thus inherited all of the family properties of this branch of the family (the younger or d’Artagnan branch).

Anne-Pierre was raised as a menin or companion to the royal children of France, but unlike them, he embraced more of the teachings of the Enlightenment and became affiliated with a group called the Physiocrats who believed that wealth did not come from trade but from improving the land—when he inherited Mauperthuis, he built a grand new château there in the 1760s, and used the rich lands to develop new agricultural methods, and bred a new strain of merino sheep. A park was also laid out along newly fashionable English garden lines and became a renowned place to visit for a drive from the capital into the country—indeed, it was not far from Le Raincy, the country residence of the Duke of Orléans, who shared many of Montesquiou’s enlightened ideas, and they would be allies in the revolutionary period to come. Nevertheless, the château of Mauperthuis would be seized by revolutionary authorities in 1793 and destroyed. The park was eventually recovered by the family then sold in 1817.

plans for the new château at Mauperthuis

Anne-Pierre took the title Marquis de Montesquiou and would be formally authorised to add the name Fezensac by Louis XVI in 1777. Interestingly, his mother’s dowry had included the original lordship of Montesquiou, bought by her father from its heirs. Like all men in his family, he joined the army and rose through the ranks in the 1750s-60s, and was appointed Premier Equerry of the Count of Provence (Monsieur), Louis XVI’s younger brother. Both men enjoyed reading and patronising the arts, and the Marquis became part of the Prince’s inner circle, more elevated and literate than the court of Versailles, and more focused on Paris. Here he built a residence on the rue de Monsieur (not far from the Invalides, and near his workplace of Provence’s stables), the Hôtel de Montesquiou, in 1781. After 1851, it housed a Benedictine convent, and from 1938 was used by the French state for offices (and they built a very modern façade that obscures the building from the street), notably, between 1959 and 1999 the Ministry of Cooperation, an agency set up to maintain good relations with France’s former colonies. Since 2012, the hôtel has housed the Embassy of China.

the Hôtel de Montesquiou as it appears today (photo Celette)

The Marquis de Montesquiou-Fezensac published verse and comedies which earned him a seat in the Académie française in 1784, and he was eager to act as a deputy for Second Estate (the nobility) for the Paris district at the Estates General of 1789. Here he swiftly joined the Third Estate to form the National Assembly in June, along with his ally the Duke of Orléans, and would later be appointed President of the Constituent Assembly, as that body became by 1791. His family’s military reputation and his own successful career made him a good choice to lead the newly created Army of the South in the summer of 1792, and he conquered Savoy for the new French Republic in September, then was instructed to invade Geneva. Rather than use force, he chose to negotiate with the magistrates of the city—perhaps respecting it as the land of Rousseau and Necker?—for which he was accused of treason in November. He fled abroad, and although he returned in 1795, kept his head down and died a few years later.

Anne-Pierre, Marquis de Montesquiou-Fezensac

His sons however would continue their father’s legacy of support for the Revolution. Both had been set up at a young age to continue in royal services in the households of the King’s brothers, Provence and Artois, but both rallied to the cause of Napoleon and the proclamation of the Empire of the French in 1804. The elder, Pierre, was appointed Grand Chamberlain of the Imperial court in 1809, and was President of the Legislative Corps in 1810-13. He received a new imperial title, Count of the Empire, in 1810. His intimacy with the imperial court was strengthened further when his wife was appointed Governess of the king of Rome, Napoleon’s son, in 1811. Louise-Charlotte Le Tellier de Courtanvaux, known by her charge as ‘Maman Quiou’, also brought to the marriage another large château, Courtanvaux.

Pierre, Comte de Montesquiou-Fezensac, as Grand Chamberlain
Napoleon presents the King of Rome to the Imperial court. The Empress Marie-Louise remains in bed, and the baby is I presume in the arms of his new governess, the Comtesse de Montesquiou-Fezensac

The Château de Courtanvaux is one of France’s great country houses. Built in the province of Maine (between Normandy and the Loire valley) in the fourteenth century, it was renovated in the fifteenth century and retains much of this characteristic high gothic style. The powerful Souvré family held it from 1500, known for the Marshal de Souvré, companion of Henry IV and preceptor for his son, Louis XIII. Now a marquisate, the estate and château passed by marriage to the Le Tellier family in 1661, but no one lived there for over a century until it was re-occupied and restored by Pierre and Louise-Charlotte de Montesquiou after the fall of Napoleon in 1815. Courtanvaux remained the family’s principal seat throughout the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, until it was sold by Aymeri de Montesquiou (below) in 1978. It is now owned by the local town and opened up for visitors.

the Château de Courtanvaux (photo by David Merrett)

Pierre’s son Anatole was an ardent Bonapartist, a soldier in many of the Emperor’s campaigns and his aide-de-camp from 1813, and went into exile in 1815. He was reconciled with the new regime in 1816 and appointed aide-de-camp of the Duke of Orléans (and his wife appointed dame d’honneur of the Duchess), so when that Duke became King Louis-Philippe in 1830, Anatole de Montesquiou became an ardent supporter of Orléanism. Louis-Philippe gave him a seat in the Chamber of Peers in 1841, and elevated his military rank to general in 1848…but in that same year the Orléans Monarchy fell and Montesquiou went into exile once more. He did return in the 1850s and devoted himself to local politics in the area around Courtanvaux, and in the 1860s was a director of the Société de Secours aux Blessés Militaires, the organisation that would eventually become the French Red Cross.

Anatole, Marquis de Montesuiou-Fezensac

Of the many descendants of this branch of the Montesquiou family in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, two stand out. Count Robert de Montesquiou (d. 1921) was a well-known dandy of the Belle Epoque: a poet and literary critic, he was a supporter of the Avant-Garde at his Hôtel de Montesquiou-Fezensac (not to be confused with the nearby Hôtel de Montesquiou, which today houses a Chinese cultural centre), where he lived fairly openly with his companion, the Argentinian Gabriel d’Yturri. Both men are cited as models for one of the more outrageous characters immortalised by Proust.

Count Robert de Montesquiou, by Boldini

In the next generation, Count Léon de Montesquiou was at first a historian, writing a doctoral dissertation on the suppression of the noble duel, then from 1900 a leading member of the far-right nationalist and royalist party, Action Française. Vocally opposed to the government that had overturned the Dreyfus judgment in 1906, his comments calling for violent overthrow caused him to be removed from his post in the army reserve. Perhaps ironically, and in the spirit of the Musketeers, he was involved in a duel with a political opponent in November 1911. When war broke out, Montesquiou was re-integrated into the army and was killed in combat in September 1915.  

a newspaper article about the duel of 1911, with Montesquiou in the white shift and in the right side portrait

The senior line, who used the title Marquis de Montesquiou-Fezensac for the head (and count for younger sons), continue to the present and will be looked at again once they take up the title ‘Duke of Fezensac’ after 1913. But first we need to see where this ducal title came from, and for that we need to go all the way back to the senior line of the House of Montesquiou, the lords of Marsan.

As we’ve seen, this line split from the line of d’Artagnan in the 1480s. There is not much remarkable to note about this branch in the next two centuries. Marc-Antoine was the first to adopt a higher title, Comte de Montesquiou-Marsan, and became a Captain in the French Navy in the mid-eighteenth century. The family’s rise in society is signalled by his marriage in 1752 to Françoise-Catherine de Narbonne-Lara, whose brothers were prominent at the court of Louis XV, and whose sister-in-law was one of the King’s favoured mistresses (and whose son, possibly the King’s, was briefly Minister of War under Louis XVI). Marc-Antoine’s eldest son Philippe rose to the rank of Maréchal de Camp in 1791, and eventually Lieutenant-General at the Restoration in 1814.

It was his younger brother, François-Xavier-Marc-Antoine, who brought the family—remember, one of the oldest in all of France—to the premier rank in 1821. But unlike most dukes, he was not a soldier, but a churchman. The Abbé de Montesquiou was two times over abbot of Beaulieu: one near Langres from 1782, and one near Le Mans from 1786. In 1785, he was appointed one of two agents-general of the clergy, an administrative role at the top of the French Church hierarchy (so we can assume he was headed for appointment as a bishop). He was then selected to represent the First Estate for the Paris district at the Estates General, and unlike his distant cousin noted above, he did not at first agree to join the Third Estate to form the National Assembly. He eventually came around and was elected several times to act as that body’s president, for monthly terms in 1790 and 1791. He remained conservative however, and opposed the adoption of the Civil Constitution of the Clergy (making it a strictly French Church, severing dependency on Rome) in July 1790. When things got hot after the popular attack on the Tuileries Palace in August 1792, he fled abroad, first to England, then to the United States. His journeys there were later recorded and published. The Abbé returned to France in 1795 after the end of the Terror, and acted as a royalist agent for the titular king in exile, Louis XVIII. As a reward, he was part of the provisional government set up in April 1814 before the return of the King, and he urged Louis not to accept a constitution from the Senate—reaffirming the old idea that kings grant rights to the people, not the other way round. He was appointed Minister of the Interior, and began to reform the nation’s education system, but was run out with the King in the Hundred Days in 1815. When the monarchy was restored for the second time, Montesquiou retained the title of Minister of State.

François-Xavier-Marc-Antoine, Abbé de Montesquiou

The Abbé de Montesquiou was a member of the Académie française from 1816, and appointed to the Chamber of Peers as Count of Montesquiou-Fezensac in 1817. This was then raised in rank to Duke of Fezensac (sometimes written Montesquiou-Fezensac) in 1821, though I’m not certain why: perhaps the fairly moderate Louis XVIII wished to keep him on side in the face of the increasingly conservative opposition led by his brother Artois, the future Charles X. When ultimately Charles X was toppled in 1830, the Duc de Fezensac at first remained in his seat in the Chamber of Peers under the new liberal regime, but resigned in 1832 and died soon after.

Before he died, the first Duke resigned his peerage to his nephew, Raymond. Initially not sharing his uncle’s fervent royalist views, he had joined the army in 1804, and served as aide-de-camp for Marshal Ney from 1806. In 1808 he married Henriette Clarke, daughter of Napoleon’s Minister of War, and in 1809 was created a baron of the Empire. He was appointed a general in 1813, and led campaigns in Germany and Bohemia. But despite these close Napoleonic ties, he did swiftly assimilate into the Restoration court, like so many nobles of the Old Regime, and was appointed a Major-General in the Royal Guard in 1815. In 1838, now as 2nd Duke of Fezensac, he represented King Louis-Philippe as Ambassador to Spain.

Raymond de Montesquiou, 2nd Duke of Fezensac

A generation is skipped since the 2nd Duke’s eldest son Roger-Aimery predeceased him, so in 1867 the title passed to his grandson, Philippe. Interestingly, another ducal title passed through this line, with Henriette Clarke, the 2nd Duchess, ultimately passing her father’s Napoleonic dukedom (Feltre) to one of her daughter’s sons. Philippe, 3rd Duke of Fezensac, was active in politics in the French Third Republic, representing the Department of the Gers in the Senate for a decade (1887-97) in support of the conservative monarchist faction. After his retirement, he became President of the exclusive Jockey Club of Paris, 1908 until his death in 1913. He had two daughters, but the dukedom expired with him.

Philippe, 3rd Duke of Fezensac, as a young man

As noted above, before he died, the 3rd Duke donated several properties including the Château of Marsan in the ancient family heartland to a very distant cousin from the junior d’Artagnan line, Joseph, Marquis de Montesquiou-Fezensac, who assumed the title 4th Duke of Fezensac without any legal basis, since he wasn’t descended from the original grantee. Joseph and his wife Victoire Masséna de Rivoli were part of the avant-garde society of turn of the century Paris and were both painted by Expressionist painter Oskar Kokoschka.

Joseph, Marquis de Montesquiou-Fezensac, by Kokoschka, 1910

Joseph was succeeded in 1939 by his son Pierre (‘5th Duke’) who took on various political roles in the Gers, including the post of mayor of Marsan, then served at the national level as a deputy from the Gers, 1958-76. Taking an interest in European politics, in the 1960s he was appointed to the Council of Europe and the Assembly of the Western European Union, where he presided over its liberal members. He inherited the Château of Courtanvaux in 1964, but also lived at Marsan until his death in 1976.

Pierre, 5th Duke of Fezensac

His son, Aymeri de Montesquiou (b. 1942), is considered to be the 6th Duke of Fezensac. He too has been for many years mayor of Marsan, where he resides, a deputy in the National Assembly and the European Parliament, and Senator for the Gers, 1998 to 2015. In the Senate, he sat as a Union Centriste (centre-right), but in 2015 his senatorial re-election was invalidated as he was accused of money laundering and trafficking influence with foreign agents, notably from Kazakhstan. Since 2012 he legally changed his name to Montesquiou-Fezensac d’Artagnan—and perhaps he can get a career re-launch with the renewed interest in his famous Musketeer ancestor buried in a church in far-off Maastricht.

D’Artagnan on the Dumas statue in Paris (photo Marimarina)

Scott of Buccleuch: an ancient Scottish clan coupled with an illegitimate royal line

Of all the grand aristocratic families with multiple titles and country houses in the United Kingdom today, one of the few who have also retained much of their ancestral lands is that of Montagu-Douglas-Scott. As their name suggests, this is actually three lineages joined together. The Scotts are an old Scottish clan from the Borders whose heiress married the illegitimate son of King Charles II in 1663 and founded the line of the dukes of Buccleuch, with a seat at Dalkeith House near Edinburgh; then by marrying a Douglas heiress in 1720, the family succeeded (eventually) to the title Duke of Queensberry, with another seat at Drumlanrig Castle in the Borders; and finally, another marriage in 1767 brought them the Montagu estate of Broughton House in Northamptonshire. The history of the Montagus, dukes of Montagu and of Manchester, has recently been told, and that of Douglas, one of the most powerful of all Scots noble houses, will certainly have a post of his own. So here we will focus on the Scotts of Buccleuch.

Drumlanrig Castle,seat of the dukes of Buccleuch, with its distinctive pink stone (photo Billy McCrorie)

The surname Scott (Scotte, Scotus) traces back to the 1120s, but the first prominent member was Sir Richard Scott, Ranger of Ettrick Forest in the late 1200s. Ettrick Forest was one of the extensive forests controlled by the Scottish kings, this one just north of the border with England, in what is today called Selkirkshire. As Ranger, Sir Richard had access to property and acquired an estate on the Rankel Burn deep in the forest, upon which he built a new house called Buccleuch—pronounced ‘Buckloo’. The name describes a cleugh (gorge) above the burn in which a purported ancestor shot a mighty buck. There are remains of an old castle, now hidden beneath a nineteenth-century farmhouse, and a chapel and ruins of another fortified keep further up the hillside.

The Buck Cleugh (photo Richard Webb)
the Ettrick Water on the Buccleuch Estate

About the same time, Sir Richard acquired, by marriage to the heiress of the Murthock family of northern Lanarkshire (the upper Clyde valley), the barony of Murthockstone, which later became known as Murdostoun. The Scotts built a new castle here in the fifteenth century, above the South Calder Water. But it was soon exchanged for lands in the Borders with the Inglis family, who thereafter dominated this area southeast of Glasgow until they sold it in the late nineteenth century. Murdostoun Castle today houses a medical facility.

In about 1350, the family divided into two lines, the senior retaining Buccleuch and the junior, Scott of Synton (or Sinton, a village near Ashkirk in Selkirkshire), eventually becoming Lords Polwarth, inheriting the barony of Polwarth in Berwickshire in 1827 and taking the surname Hepburne-Scott, who continue to the present day, headed by the 11th Lord Polwarth (b. 1947).

Meanwhile, the senior line raised their profile by allying with the Stewarts in the Borders to suppress the Douglasses—and were rewarded with several of the Douglas properties. By the end of the fifteenth century, the Scotts were the most powerful of the border lords—though this was contested by Clan Kerr, in a long-running clan feud.

The Scott arms from a 17th-century map

In the 1420s, the Scotts of Buccleuch acquired half of a barony in neighbouring Roxburghshire, Branxholme, overlooking the river Teviot near Hawick (an area called Upper Teviotdale). In 1446, by the above exchange with the Inglis family, they acquired the other half of the barony, and Branxholme became the new Scott family seat. The tower house here was burned in 1532 during a raid by the Earl of Northumberland, and again destroyed by the Earl of Essex in 1570. Such are the dangers of being a Border family… There is a more moderate house here today, built by Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch in the 1570s, and remodelled in 1837 for the 5th Duke. The family still retains the property.

Branxholme as it appears today (photo Walter Baxter)

This Sir Walter Scott was the son of Sir Walter Scott (a common name in the family), Warden of Liddesdale and of the Middle March (the name for the frontier with England), until he was murdered in 1552 by the Kerrs. His grandson, another Walter, was Warden of the West March in 1590, famously led a cross-border raid to Carlisle in 1596 to rescue a fellow border reiver that almost caused a war with England (earning him the nickname ‘Bold Buccleuch’ and a number of poems and ballads), and was called to the Scottish Parliament in 1606 as Lord Scott of Buccleuch. Lord Walter helped James VI and I get involved in Dutch Protestant affairs against Catholic Spain without formally committing England and Scotland to war (leading a Scots-Dutch brigade), as did his son Walter who succeeded him in 1611. Because of this service, and likely because his mother and wife were both daughters of earls, this Walter was raised to the peerage to 1st Earl of Buccleuch in 1619. His son Francis succeeded as 2nd Earl of Buccleuch in 1633.

Francis Scott, 2nd Earl of Buccleuch (said to be)

The 2nd Earl acquired a major new property, Dalkeith Palace, to give his family a seat closer to the capital, Edinburgh. The ‘wooded vale’ (dail cheith) of the River Esk, in the County of Midlothian, was guarded since the twelfth century by a castle built by Clan Graham, which passed by marriage in 1342 to Clan Douglas, in the branch of the earls of Morton (who also used the title, since the 1380s, Lord Dalkeith). The castle was the setting for numerous political visits, imprisonments and sieges in the sixteenth century, and was aggrandised (and rebranded as a ‘palace’) by the Earl of Morton who served as Regent of Scotland in the 1570s. It was a favoured residence of King James VI and Anne of Denmark, and their son Charles I when he came north for his Scottish coronation—he liked it so much he began the process of purchasing and enlarging it in 1637, but war intervened, and in 1642, the Douglasses sold it instead to the 2nd Earl of Buccleuch. It would be rebuilt entirely by the Dowager Duchess of Buccleuch (the 2nd Earl’s daughter), 1701-11, as a grand baroque palace, and continued to attract royal visits well into the next century, both George IV and Victoria preferring it to the dark and un-renovated Holyroodhouse. Dalkeith Palace (or Dalkeith House as it became known in the twentieth century) was vacated by the Buccleuch family after 1914, and by the 1970s was leased to a computer firm, and then from the mid-1980s to the University of Wisconsin who ran a study abroad centre here. Since 2021 the house has been reclaimed by the family’s Living Heritage Trust, which also runs the surrounding country park, and has begun hosting art exhibitions, perfect for a day out from nearby Edinburgh.

Dalkeith Palace in 1829

Returning to the seventeenth century, we see that the increasingly politicised 2nd Earl of Buccleuch was a Covenanter, leading a Scottish cavalry unit against the Royalists under Lord Montrose. He died in 1651, leaving two daughters: Mary, who became 3rd Countess of Buccleuch at age four, but died unmarried in 1661; and Anne, 4th Countess, who in 1663, married the Duke of Monmouth. At the time of their marriage, she was created—equally with him—Duchess of Buccleuch, so when he was executed and attainted in 1685, it did not affect her titles or those of her children.

Anne Scott, 1st Duchess of Buccleuch, with her two sons

So who was the Duke of Monmouth? James Crofts or James FitzRoy, who later took the surname Scott, was born in April 1649 in Rotterdam, the product of a tryst of a young Charles Stuart and Lucy Walter—both were 18, and Charles had just become king, nominally, after the execution of his father in January. Charles and Lucy had conducted a teen love affair that winter at the court of The Hague—Walter was from a minor Welsh gentry family, and there was always a lingering story that she hoped for better things for herself and her son by claiming that she and the King had married, but no real evidence for this was ever produced—notably towards the end of Charles II’s reign, when courtiers hoped for a Protestant succession, rather than a Catholic one as represented by the King’s brother, the Duke of York.

a miniature said to be Lucy Walter

Charles II acknowledged his son James right away, and the baby and his mother moved around between Paris, Cologne and London—which also raised suspicions: Lucy was arrested in 1656 and accused of being a spy, and sent back to the Low Countries. Charles stopped paying her a pension and removed James from her care in 1658, bringing him to the exiled court in Paris, where he was raised by the newly ennobled William, 1st Baron Crofts (hence the first surname), a longtime servant of the King’s mother, and now the King’s Gentleman of the Bedchamber. Interestingly, James Crofts, after he became James Scott, would name his own illegitimate son (born 1683) James Crofts. Lucy Walter, pushed away from Stuart affairs by the sense of a pending Restoration, died later in 1658.

young James Scott National Trust)

When Charles II was restored to his thrones in England, Scotland and Ireland, he brought his son James home with him. In February 1663, he was created Duke of Monmouth, Earl of Doncaster and Baron Scott of Tynedale. All these titles were in the peerage of England, giving Monmouth a seat in the House of Lords—but clearly a marriage with Anne Scott was already arranged, given the name of the barony. Monmouth is in Wales (though legally in England until the 1970s), Doncaster in Yorkshire and Tynedale in Northumberland. Two months later, the new duke did marry his heiress, and both were created Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch, Earl and Countess of Dalkeith, and Baron and Baroness Scott of Whitchester and Eskdale. Whitchester is on the Teviot near Branxholme, while Eskdale is the valley just across the watershed from Teviotdale, the river Esk flowing southwest into Solway Firth—it is perhaps notable that the barony of Eskdale long belonged to Clan Douglas, so perhaps this foreshadowed the merger of these two ancient rival clans. These titles carried a seat in the Scottish Parliament.

A map of Eskdale from the 1650s. Ettrick Forest and other Buccleuch lands are further north

A new dynasty was born, joining together the distinctive coat-of-arms of the Scotts, gold, with two moons and a star on a blue band, with the royal arms of the Stuarts, with a silver ‘bend sinister’ denoting bastardy. The first son, born in 1674, would bear the name Earl of Dalkeith.

the early arms of the dukes of Buccleuch, with Royal Stuart and Scott (and the Order of the Thistle)

The Duke of Monmouth established his credentials as a military leader right away: serving in the navy against the Dutch in 1665, then appointed Colonel of the Royal Horse Guards in 1668. Rather than live on their Scottish estates far from court, the Duke and Duchess acquired Moor Park in Hertfordshire, north of London, in 1670. This house was a newer residence built in the park of the much older More Palace (or the ‘Manor of the More’). Acquired from the Abbey of St Albans, it had been turned into a residence by Cardinal Wolsey, then housed Katherine of Aragon following the annulment of her marriage. Preparations were made for it to become a country house for Anne Boleyn after her coronation, but she lost her crown before this was finalised. By the 1590s More Palace was in ruins and in the 1660s it was completely pulled down. The property had been leased to the Russells, earls of Bedford, who built the new house in the park (hence ‘Moor Park’) in 1617. Monmouth rebuilt it again in the 1670s, and after his death his widow sold it to a wealthy lawyer Benjamin Haskins-Stiles who fully transformed it into a Palladian villa as we see it today. Over the next two centuries it was bought and sold by various aristocrats, including the son of the Duke of Westminster and Lord and Lady Leverhulme, who in the 1920s, built a golf course in the grounds—today the house serves as its clubhouse.

Moor Park as rebuilt in the 18th century

In 1672, the Duke of Monmouth was given command of 6,000 troops that were sent to France to serve in a war against the Dutch. In this war, he showed himself to be one of the era’s finest soldiers—but then so too had the Duke of York, his future rival, in the previous decade. The King, still lacking a legitimate heir after a decade of marriage to Catherine of Braganza, heaped more and more honours on to his favourite son: governor of Hull in 1673, and Lord Lieutenant of the East Riding of Yorkshire, then Master of the Horse, 1674, and effective commander of all royal land forces. In 1678, in a reversal of the situation of 1672, he led a joint Anglo-Dutch force against France, then was sent north in 1679 to put down a rebellion in England.

The Duke of Monmouth at the siege of Maastricht, 1673

But by the end of 1679, the Exclusion Crisis—a political crisis over Parliament’s efforts to exclude the Duke of York from the succession—forced the King to send his son away from court, especially as Monmouth was not supporting the claims being put forward that his mother had married Charles back in 1648. In contrast to York, Monmouth, a Protestant war hero, was very popular. But he again played his cards wrong by participating (or at least being accused of participating) in the Rye House Plot to murder both the King and the Duke of York in 1683. Then in June 1685, shortly after the death of Charles II, the Duke of Monmouth raised the standard of rebellion against the new king, James II, at Lyme Regis, in Devon. His forces were soundly defeated at Sedgemoor in Somerset, 6 July. He was arrested and his titles attainted—many people hoped for clemency, including the Dowager Queen, Catherine, but Monmouth was executed on 15 July on Tower Hill. As noted above, his English titles were attainted, while the Scottish ones were allowed to continue for his widow and eldest son—the English subsidiary titles (Doncaster and Scott of Tynemouth) were, however, restored to the 2nd Duke in 1743.

James Scott, Duke of Monmouth and Buccleuch, in Garter Robes, after Lely (National Trust)

In 1685, the Duke of Monmouth left behind his widow and two sons, James and Henry, born in 1674 and 1676. Other children had died young, and there were several illegitimate children, including Henrietta Crofts who married the Duke of Bolton. Their mother, Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch, re-married in 1688 as the second wife of Charles, 3rd Baron Cornwallis, First Lord of the Admiralty, and they had several daughters, but only one, Isabella, lived long into the next century, unmarried (and used, notably, her mother’s surname, as a potential heiress to the dukedom should her half-brothers die without heirs). The eldest son, James, Earl of Dalkeith, did not become 2nd Duke of Buccleuch since he died in 1705, many years before his mother (who died in 1732). A year after his death, his brother Henry was created Earl of Deloraine. He was a politician elected to the last Scottish Parliament who voted in favour of its dissolution and to join the English Parliament in 1707. This title was based in the usual Scott homeland of Ettrick Forest, named after a burn called Deloraine, an affluent of Ettrick Water. His subsidiary titles included Lord Goldielands, a tower house on the Teviot, south of Hawick; and Viscount of Hermitage, a castle with a very eminent story in the history of Scotland.

Henry Scott, Earl of Deloraine

Hermitage Castle, in Liddesdale, County Roxburghe, was probably named for the Old French l’armitage or gatehouse. It was built in the 1240s by the De Soulis family, whose last member, William, left behind a curious legacy of witchcraft and attempted regicide. Visitors to the castle today are still confronted with stories of ghosts and strange noises. He lost the castle in 1320 and it was granted to the Black Douglas family, earls of Douglas, who rebuilt it on a grander scale. After that family was brought down by the Crown in the 1450s, the castle was re-granted to the Hepburns, earls of Bothwell. It was thus the property of Lord Bothwell during some of the more romantic escapades of the reign of Mary, Queen of Scots in the 1560s. It was again confiscated by the Crown after a plot against James VI by Bothwell’s nephew in 1593, and a year later was granted to the ever-loyal Scott of Buccleuch. After the Stuarts joined the crowns of Scotland and England, however, a powerful border fortress was no longer needed, so Hermitage was neglected. By the time it was part of the estates of the Earl of Deloraine, it was a ruin. The dukes of Buccleuch recouped the property in 1807 and held it until it was given to the nation in 1930—today it is one of the jewels in the tourism crown of Historic Environment Scotland.

Hermitage Castle today (photo Postdlf)

The Earl of Deloraine was rewarded for his loyalty to the Act of Union and to the Hanoverian Succession with a position in the household of the Prince of Wales, as Gentleman of the Bedchamber. In this position he met Mary Howard (of the Berkshire branch of Howards), a maid of honour to the Princess of Wales, and they wed in 1726. When the Prince became George II in 1727, Deloraine was elevated to Gentleman of the Royal Bedchamber. His wife could no longer be a maid of honour, but the new queen, Caroline, appointed her governess of her daughters Mary and Louise. After the Earl died in 1730, she re-married the tutor of Prince William, William Windham, though continued to be referred to as Lady Deloraine, notably once she became the King’s mistress in about 1737. She held this position at court—and became known for her rude behaviour—until unseated abruptly by Amalie von Wallmoden in 1742 (who retained the title until the King’s death in 1760).

The Earl had two sons, Francis and Henry, who succeeded him as 2nd and 3rd Earl of Deloraine in 1730 and 1739, but the latter only for a year before being succeeded by his infant son Henry, who held the earldom until 1807. After his death, the properties returned to the main line of Buccleuch.

The Earl of Dalkeith had married well, in 1694, to Henrietta Hyde, daughter of the 1st Earl of Rochester, whose sister Anne was the mother of the two Stuart princesses, Mary and Anne, so Henrietta was first cousin to two regnant queens. They had one son, Francis, who became 2nd Duke of Buccleuch when his grandmother died in 1732.

A man of his times, the 2nd Duke was interested in science and the Enlightenment—leading to his appointment as Grand Master of the Freemasons, 1723-24, a Fellow of the Royal Society, 1724, and ultimately being awarded an honorary doctorate from Oxford University, 1745. While nothing specific is attributed to him in terms of scholarship, he was known as a patron in a variety of scientific fields. In Parliament, he was selected as one of the Scottish representative peers, then became a peer on his own right, 1743 when his grandfather’s English titles were restored (so he sat as Lord Doncaster). He married twice, Jane Douglas, daughter of the 2nd Duke of Queensberry—more on that below—and Alice Powell in 1744, before he succumbed to smallpox in 1751.

Before he died, the 2nd Duke greatly increased the holdings of the family’s country houses. He acquired the Manor of Spalding in the fenlands of southern Lincolnshire, and rented Hall Place at Hurley in Berkshire as his country seat nearer to London—close to Maidenhead, this house sat high above the Thames valley, and was modern and stylish, built in 1728 by a London lawyer (today it houses the Berkshire College of Agriculture). Then in 1747, the Duke purchased Bowhill in the old Scott heartland of Selkirkshire for his son as his seat until he inherited Dalkeith House (and to give him a footing to run for a seat in Parliament in that county).

Hall Place photographed in the 1940s

Bowhill House, a few miles outside the town of Selkirk, was built in 1708 by John Murray, Lord Bowhill (a Lord of Session). After it was purchased by the Scotts of Buccleuch, it was slowly improved and enlarged, converting it from a summer house to a permanent residence, and in particular, a showpiece for the growing art collection of three dynasties (Scott, Montagu and Douglas)—still today, the collection here is impressively grand.

Bowhill House, Selkirkshire (photo Richard Webb)

It is interesting to consider that this new purchase was already in the heart of Scott territory, in the Yarrow Water valley near its confluence with the Ettrick Water, and thus downstream from both Deloraine and Buccleuch itself. Also in this valley, much closer to Bowhill, was the remains of Newark Castle, a tower house built by the 4th Earl of Douglas in 1406 as a ‘new wark’ to replace his older castle as the seat of feudal administration for this district. Confiscated in 1455, Newark became the administrative centre for the Royal Forest of Ettrick. Over the next century the castle and its lands were given to various Scottish queens as part of their jointure lands, with the Scotts of Buccleuch sometimes acting as captain until they acquired the property outright by the later seventeenth century. It is now thus reunited with Scott property at Bowhill, the seat of the eldest sons of the dukes of Buccleuch.

Newark Castle (photo Walter Baxter)

The first of these eldest sons, Francis, Earl of Dalkeith, died in 1750, at 29, so the succession to the dukedom skipped a generation to pass to his son. Dalkeith had married Lady Caroline Campbell, eldest daughter of the 2nd Duke of Argyll, who had been created Duke of Greenwich in 1719 (as means of guaranteeing a seat in the united British Parliament); after Argyll died in 1743, Caroline became co-heiress with her sisters, and in 1767 was created Baroness Greenwich—she had remarried the politician Charles Townshend, and the title was created to pass to their eldest son, but they had no surviving sons, so this title went extinct on her death in 1794.

Francis, Earl of Dalkeith, in Hussar uniform, 1747

Henry Scott became 3rd Duke of Buccleuch as a child when his grandfather died in 1751. He had a good education, and was tutored by Adam Smith on his Grand Tour. Perhaps fittingly for a man educated by the greatest economist of the age, the Duke established his career in 1777 as Governor of the Royal Bank of Scotland. Later the King appointed him Lord Lieutenant of Midlothian and Haddington, 1794, and he was put in command of troops in Scotland in case of French invasion during the Revolutionary Wars.

Henry Scott, 3rd Duke of Buccleuch and 5th Duke of Queensberry

Back in 1767, the 3rd Duke had married Lady Elizabeth Montagu, daughter of George Brudenell and Mary Montagu of Boughton, 1st Duke and Duchess of Montagu of a new creation in 1766. When Brudenell died in 1790, his daughter the Duchess of Buccleuch inherited the Montagu lands—notably Boughton House—but not the dukedom (though her second son was set up as Baron Montagu of Boughton, see below). Two decades later, however, the 3rd Duke did inherit another dukedom, Queensberry, from his grandmother’s first cousin once removed, William Douglas, 4th Duke of Queensberry who died in 1810. This dukedom had been created in 1684 for a branch of the Douglas family that were based at Drumlanrig Castle in Dumfriesshire, not far from Queensberry Hill (in the Lowther Hills) from which it took its name. The history of this family and the titles associated with it will be detailed in a separate blog, but here we can note that its subsidiary titles from 1684 were Marquess of Dumfriesshire, Earl of Drumlanrig and Sanquhar, Viscount of Nith, Torthorwald and Ross, and Lord Douglas of Kilmount, Middlebie and Dornock. Douglas was also Marquess of Queensberry and Earl of March, but as these had separate rules of creation, when he died in 1810, they passed to different Douglas relatives.

Lady Elizabeth Montagu, Duchess of Buccleuch and Queensberry
Boughton House, Northamptonshire (photo Euan Myles)

Of all these titles, it is worth noting that of Nith, since it was in the Nithsdale that Drumlanrig Castle was situated (and Sanquhar is nearby). The old castle, taking its name possibly from drum (ridge) and lanerc (a clearing in a wood), had been the centre of the Queensberry estate for a long time before the 1st Duke of Queensberry built a new, much grander castle here in 1679-89, and added a formal garden following the latest French and Dutch designs, with a summer house and water cascades. It became one of the grandest of all Scottish residences, with its distinctive pink stone, and is now the primary seat of the Buccleuch family.

Drumlanrig elevation (National Galleries of Scotland)

After 1810, the 3rd Duke of Buccleuch and 5th Duke of Queensberry, thus took the name Montagu-Douglas-Scott, and later generations would use a more complex coat-of-arms for the family: Royal Stuart (‘bruised’ for illegitimacy), Scott, Douglas, Montagu (and more recent generations would also add quarters indicating descent from the Campbells, the Brudenells and the Churchills).

dukes of Buccleuch and Queensberry (Stuart, Scott, Montagu and Douglas)

This now triple dynasty was still connected to the rest of Clan Scott, however, and the Duke was (and is) considered clan chief. Other branches of the Scotts, like the ducal line, had consistently remained loyal to the new Hanoverian regime across the eighteenth century, evident in both Jacobite uprisings, the ’15 and the ’45. This extended to the remaining members of Clan Scott: one of the most aggressive and brutal redcoats being Captain Caroline Frederick Scott, who defended Fort William in March 1746.

Other interesting Scotts from different branches include the most famous of all, Sir Walter Scott the poet and novelist. He came from the line of Harden (from the same branch that spawned the Lords Polwarth), with their seat at Smailholm Castle near Kelso in the Borders. The castle being a ruin by the late eighteenth century, this Walter Scott grew up in Edinburgh, studied at the university there, and became one of the most famous of all Scottish writers, with novels including Ivanhoe, Rob Roy, Waverley and The Lady of the Lake. He was also a historian, and elected President of the Royal Society and the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. He worked with George IV to recover the Crown Jewels of Scotland (lost since the 1650s) and stage-managed the King’s visit to Scotland in 1822—reviving the use of tartan and the wearing of kilts as part of the royal identity in Scotland. The King created Scott a baronet in 1820, of Abbotsford, the name of a house he had recently built, in romantic Gothic Revival style, near Galashiels, on the Tweed. Abbotsford would be lived in by a Scott descendant until 2004 when it was completely turned over to tourism.

Sir Walter Scott, by Lawrence (Royal Collection)
Abbotsford from across the Tweed, c1830

Two other Scotts are worth noting here, two more novelists, both known confusingly as Lady Scott. Caroline Lucy Scott (d. 1857) was a niece of the 3rd Duke of Buccleuch, married to Admiral Sir George Scott. She wrote anonymous novels in the 1820s-30s but published later religious tracts under her own name. Harriet Anne Scott (d. 1894) was the wife of Sir James Scott, 3rd Baronet of Dunninald (from the Scott of Logie branch). She wrote ten novels in the 1830s-60s, using her own name after the first few.

The first duke of both Buccleuch and Queensberry only held these titles for two years. His son, Charles, 4th Duke of Buccleuch and 6th Duke of Queensberry, had been known for most of his life as the Earl of Dalkeith and had a long career as an MP in the British House of Commons until he was ‘accelerated’ into the House of Lords by a royal writ creating him Baron Scott of Tyndale in 1807. He was Lord Lieutenant of Dumfriesshire from 1797 and succeeded his father as Lord Lieutenant of Midlothian in 1812. But his hold on the ducal titles was also short, dying only seven years later.

The 4th Duke had been responsible for improving Drumlanrig Castle, pulling together the art collections at Bowhill, and establishing the parish church of St Edmunds, Warkton, near Boughton House, as the new family sepulchre (though some remained buried in St Mary’s, Dalkeith). He also showed an interest in technology and sponsored one of the oldest iron bridges in Scotland, at Langholm Lodge (built for the 3rd Duke in 1786), over the River Esk north of Gretna Green (known as the ‘Duchess Bridge’). The Lodge was demolished in 1853, but the ornamental gardens built around it survive.

the Duchess Bridge at Langholm

The 4th Duke’s younger brother, Henry, in 1790 inherited one of the new creations for the Montagu family, Baron Montagu of Boughton, and along with it, the large feudal property called the Forest of Bowland in Lancashire. He died in 1845 leaving only daughters—so the barony of Montagu of Bought became extinct and the lordship of Bowland passed to another family. A sister also helped keep these family lines connected, however, by her marriage to one of the other co-heirs, Charles Douglas, 6th Marquess of Queensberry.

In 1819, most of this passed to Walter Montagu-Douglas-Scott, the 5th Duke of Buccleuch and 7th Duke of Queensberry. As a young magnate, he was interested in the continued development of Scotland, and funded the development of Granton Harbour on the Edinburgh waterfront. He had a political career as a Conservative member of Peel’s government: Lord Keeper of the Privy Seal, 1842-46, then Lord President of the Council, briefly, January to July 1846. He also maintained a position at court, as Captain-General of the Royal Bodyguard of Scottish Archers and an aide-de-camp to Queen Victoria. He was far and away one of the richest men in the United Kingdom, with 250,000 acres in Dumfriesshire, 100,000 in Roxburghshire, 60,000 in Selkirkshire, 18,000 acres in Northamptonshire, and another 24,000 scattered all over England and Scotland (about 460,000 acres total).

Walter, 5th Duke of Buccleuch

A new property added by this duke was Eildon Hall, near the river Tweed and the town of Melrose in Roxburghshire. Built in the shadow of Eildon Hill, an isolated outcropping in the Scottish Borders, Eildon Hall was constructed as a hunting lodge by a local surgeon in 1802, then bought by the 5th Duke of Buccleuch in 1838 to enhance his newly established Buccleuch Hunt in the surrounding Cheviot Hills. By the end of the century, it had become the usual residence of the earls of Dalkeith as heirs to the dukedom.

Eildon Hall (photo Jenny Gumbrell)

The 5th Duke, who died in 1884, had three sons: the youngest, Lord Charles, was an admiral in the navy with a very long career; the second, Lord Henry, became Baron Montagu of Beaulieu and started a junior line, about which more below. The eldest, William, was, as the Earl of Dalkeith, an active MP in the 1850s-80s, and established his London residence at Montagu House on Whitehall Street. This was a townhouse with frontage on the Thames, initially built in the 1730s by the 2nd Duke of Montagu, on a site previously part of the medieval residence of the archbishops of York. The Georgian mansion was replaced in the 1850s with a much larger, and fairly unusual French Renaissance style house, one of the grandest private mansions in London. In 1917 it was taken over for use as government offices, and was demolished in 1949 (the site is now part of the Ministry of Defence).

Montagu House as rebuilt in the 1850s

William, 6th Duke of Buccleuch, succeeded his father as Captain-General of the Archers, and was named a member of the Privy Council in 1901. He died in 1914, leaving behind five sons (an older son, Walter, had died young): John became the 7th Duke, while George, Henry and Herbert were soldiers—the latter was also the great-grandfather of Sarah Ferguson, Duchess of York. Lord Francis was not a soldier, a black sheep I guess.

William, 6th Duke of Buccleuch, in the uniform of the Royal Scottish Archers

Before continuing the main line in the twentieth century, we should pause to look at the line founded by Lord Henry: Montagu of Beaulieu. Unlike the senior line, they use the surname Douglas-Montagu-Scott (and reverse the order of the quarterings in the coat-of-arms). Lord Henry was created Baron Montagu of Beaulieu in 1885. He had been an MP for Hampshire from 1868 to 1884 but was better known as a world traveller: Australia, Egypt, South Africa, and so on. In 1865, he was given Beaulieu Palace House by his father and thus rooted his career and his family in the southern country of Hampshire—for example, in 1890 he was appointed Verderer of the New Forest, a medieval office pertaining to keeping woodlands healthy and ‘verdant’ or green.

Beaulieu (pronounced ‘Byoolee’) had been built in the 1200s as the gatehouse for the Abbey of Beaulieu (‘beautiful place’). This was a Cistercian abbey, an order known for living in isolated places and being self-sufficient communities, founded in 1203 by King John. It became known as an ‘exempt’ abbey, owing obedience directly to the pope, not the local bishop. Much of the abbey buildings remain today, but it is the gatehouse that was acquired at secularisation in 1538 by Thomas Wriothesley, who later became Earl of Southampton. The house passed by inheritance to the Montagus, and then to the Scotts, as we’ve seen, who enlarged the building the nineteenth century, retaining its Gothic style.

Beaulieu Abbey remains (photo David Dixon)
Beaulieu Palace House (photo DeFacto)

The 2nd Baron Montagu succeeded his father in 1905; already a pioneer of the motorcar in the 1890s, when he died in 1929, he passed this passion on to his son—eventually, for at the time of succession, Edward Douglas-Montagu-Scott was only three. When he died in 2015, the 3rd Baron thus passed a milestone for the longest peerage tenure: 86½ years. The 3rd Baron founded the National Motor Museum at Beaulieu in 1952, and hosted the Beaulieu Jazz Festival here between 1956 and 1961. He is most famous, however, for the scandal that broke out in 1954 when he was arrested, tried and imprisoned for homosexual acts—which gained in significance as a major catalyst for public scrutiny of the laws and ultimately the decriminalisation of homosexuality in the 1960s. The Baron himself was bisexual and married to produce today’s 4th Baron Montagu (Ralph, b. 1961). Following the scandal, the 2nd Baron rose again in society, and was Chairman of the Historic Houses Association, 1973-78, then of English Heritage, 1984-92.

Edward Douglas-Montagu-Scott, 3rd Baron Montagu of Beaulieu, with one of his motorcars

Returning to the main line, John Montagu-Douglas-Scott, 7th Duke of Buccleuch and 9th Duke of Queensberry, spent much of his life as an heir, first as Lord Eskdaill then as Earl of Dalkeith. As a young man he served in the Navy and in the House of Commons. When he became Duke in 1914, he vacated Montagu House and moved to No 2, Grosvenor Place. He was appointed Lord Lieutenant of Dumfriesshire, 1915, and Lord Clerk Register for Scotland, 1926. A few weeks after his death in October 1935, his daughter Lady Alice made a spectacular marriage to a member of the royal family: Prince Henry, the Duke of Gloucester, third son of King George V. It is interesting to consider this a reunion of distant kinship, since—we should recall—the Montagu-Douglas-Scotts were themselves a cadet branch of the House of Stuart. Princess Alice, Duchess of Gloucester, lived until 2004, dying at age 103!

John Montagu Douglas Scott, 7th Duke of Buccleuch and 9th Duke of Queensberry
the Duke and Duchess of Gloucester (Alice Montagu-Douglas-Scott) and their two sons, 1945

Her brother Walter, 8th Duke of Buccleuch, split his time between the three main residences of the family, Drumlanrig, Bowhill and Boughton, and continued to be one of the largest private landowners in the UK in an era when other aristocratic fortunes were crumbling. Like his predecessors, he was Captain-General of the Royal Company of Archers, but was also appointed Lord Steward of the Household—until he was compelled to resign by George VI for displaying awkwardly pro-German sentiments. It was known that he attended Hitler’s birthday party in 1939, and campaigned for a truce rather than war, but some say he went further and met secretly with Ribbentrop in London. Still, he remained close to the royal family through his sister’s marriage and through his own (in 1921) to Mary Lascelles, a cousin of the Earl of Harewood (husband to Princess Mary). His daughter Elizabeth also married within this elite circle and became Duchess of Northumberland.

Walter, 8th Duke of Buccleuch, and his wife Mary Lascelles

The 8th Duke died in 1973 and was succeeded by his son John, who also had a naval career, then served in the Commons (known as ‘Johnny Dalkeith’). In 1971, he had a hunting accident and spent the rest of his life in a wheelchair, but he continued to regularly attend the Lords (once he became duke) and held other prominent offices: Lord-Lieutenant of Roxburghshire and of Selkirkshire (merged from 1975), and Chancellor of the Order of the Thistle, 1992 to 2007.

John, 9th Duke of Buccleuch (photo Allan Warren)

In 2007, Richard Montagu-Douglas-Scott (b. 1954) became the 10th Duke of Buccleuch and 12th Duke of Queensberry. He is Chief of Clan Scott, and like his father, Chancellor of the Order of the Thistle as well as Lord Lieutenant of Roxburgh, Ettrick and Lauderdale. Besides the family’s main large residences, he lives at Eildon Hall (the traditional home of the heir). Since 2018, he has been surpassed as the largest private landowner in the UK, but still holds an impressive 217,000 acres (about 880 km2). The Buccleuch Group manages his interests in estates but also wind farms, tourism and forestry. The Duke holds ceremonial posts, notably as Captain-General of the Royal Company of Archers, which carries the title ‘Gold Stick for Scotland’ with its key role at the openings of the Scottish Parliament and at royal coronations and funerals—as recently seen in 2022 and 2023. He is active in Scottish society as President of the National Trust for Scotland, 2003-12, and President of the Royal Scottish Geographical Society, 1999-2005 (and many other things). Also active in the church, he was appointed High Steward of Westminster Abbey in 2016, and Lord High Commissioner to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, 2018-19, the Queen’s personal representative to the Kirk.

Richard, 10th Duke of Buccleuch and 12th Duke of Queensberry, as ‘Gold Stick’, Captain-General of the Royal Company of Archers, at the late Queen’s funeral, 2022 (photo Katie Chan)

The triple dynasty is secure with an heir, Walter, Earl of Dalkeith (b. 1984) and a spare, Willoughby Ralph, Lord Eskdaill (b. 2016), plus an uncle, Lord Charles Scott (b. 1987), and many cousins, descendants of the 6th Duke. Reaching out for the crown in 1685, the Scotts remain essentially a clan of the Borders with roots still in Ettrick Forest.

Ettrick Forest near Selkirk (photo Walter Baxter)

Leiningen: A tiny principality with the grandest royal connections

Those knowledgeable about the dynastic details of the life of Queen Victoria will know that she had a half-sister, Princess Feodora. But her appearance in season three of the television series Victoria surprised many—at the time, I was asked if this was a fictional character added to make the series more interesting, as historical dramas often do. She was indeed a real person: one of two children born to Victoria’s mother from her first marriage to the Prince of Leiningen.

Princess Feodora of Leiningen, Princess of Hohenlohe-Langenburg, c1858 (Royal Collection)

Leiningen? What is it? It was one of several ancient counties of the Holy Roman Empire that was elevated to the status of an autonomous principality in the final years of the Empire’s existence, then was snuffed out in the re-shuffling of Europe’s political boundaries at the Congress of Vienna in 1815. The family retained a princely rank, if no genuine sovereignty, all the way up to the fall of the German Empire in 1918. And because they were related to the British royal family, they forged several marriages of the highest order beyond the level of their peers. The other German princely family most associated with Princess Feodora was Hohenlohe—her husband’s family—and they too kept up relations with the British royal family, notably through Feodora’s third son Victor who came to live in the United Kingdom and served in the Royal Navy. But the Hohenlohes are part of a different story and will have their own blog post. The two half-siblings of Queen Victoria, Feodora and Karl of Leiningen, belonged to one of the most ancient noble houses of the Palatinate, the area of the Rhineland that was the political and economic core of the Holy Roman Empire from its earliest days.

cousins Ernst of Leiningen and Viktor of Hohenlohe-Langenburg, 1857, by Frederick Richard Say, now in the British Royal Collection

Leiningen Castle was built by a Count Emich in about 1100, in the area of hills west of the middle Rhine where the flat river plain meets the Palatine Forest (the Pfälzerwald), near the ancient episcopal city of Worms. The family also built about this same time a nearby abbey, Höningen, to serve as the family sepulchre. There is a record of an earlier Emich (or Amicho) who donated property in the Worms area to a local abbey in 782, and descendants were called the Emichonen (because many of them held this name), owning property in the mid-tenth century in the area known as the Nahegau (the valley of the river Nahe). Unlike most noble families, the date for their elevation to the rank of count is impossible to pinpoint, but they were certainly called counts by the time of another Emich, a leader of the First Crusade in the 1090s.

The origin of the family name is also not known for certain. It is possible the castle, and then the family, took its name from the Leinbaum, the lime tree growing on the banks of the Leinbach (now called the Eckbach)—and indeed, the older family coat-of-arms bore a lime tree. The area around their holdings became known as the Leiningerland.

a French map of the Middle Rhine, with the County of Leiningen (Linange in French) in pink between the bishoprics of Worms and Speyer, with ‘Old Leiningen’ at the far western end of the county

The first castle, now known as Altleiningen, endured centuries of conflict as armies marched up and down the Rhine, then was badly damaged in the Peasants War of 1525 and rebuilt in a newer Renaissance style. Destroyed again by French troops who ravaged the Palatinate in 1690, it was not rebuilt, and was used for building materials by local residents. It was still owned by the family in 1933 when it was acquired by the local government; in the 1960s Altleiningen Castle was partly rebuilt and used as a youth hostel. Today it is not only known for hosting a number of local festivals but also as a home for the largest colony of wild bats in Germany, sleeping in its ancient vaults.

the ruined Altleiningen Castle, 1854

In the twelfth century, the family added to its prestige in the typical way of many German noble families in this period, by obtaining prized episcopal seats for its sons: the middle of this century saw two bishops of Würzburg and two bishops of Speyer, the latter at that point still one of the core religious centres of the Holy Roman Empire. Through this connection, the counts of Leiningen were given more senior titles by the emperor, notably in 1205 that of Landvogt (district governor) of the Speyergau, the region around the city of Speyer.

The original line of counts died out in 1220—the last count’s sister Liutgarde married Simon II, Count of Saarbrücken. Saarbrücken was a larger county further to the west, in what is now called the Saarland (see Nassau-Saarbrücken), which passed to their eldest son, while their second son Friedrich took the name Leiningen and restarted the dynasty. Count Friedrich II was also known as a composer-performer of German songs, a Minnesinger.

Friedrich II, Count of Leiningen, from a 14th-century manuscript now in the University of Heidelberg; he bears the arms of the family: three silver eagles on blue

Friedrich inherited a castle, Hardenburg, built around 1205 a bit further to the south, on a bend in the river Isenach. It would become the senior branch of the Leiningen family’s main residence after 1560, until they moved to the town in the plains below, Bad Dürkheim (see below) after the ravages of the French armies in the 1690s. A further wave of French destruction did the rest in the 1790s, and the castle has remained a ruin since. Acquired by the state in 1820s, it is maintained today by the State of Rhineland-Palatinate.

the grand ruins of Hardenburg Castle today (photo Wolkenkratzer)

Friedrich’s son Simon of Leiningen married an heiress, Gertrude, Countess of Dagsburg (more on that below), but they had no children so both inheritances passed to his brother, Friedrich III. In about 1240, Friedrich built a new castle five kilometres from Altleiningen named Neuleiningen. This castle was completely destroyed by the French in 1690 and was not rebuilt.

the ruins of Neuleiningen around 1800

Other Leiningen castles built in this period, also ruins since the 1690s, include Battenberg Castle and Emichsburg in Bockenheim—the latter was a grander residence, of which some walls remain, having been incorporated into a local winery—the Leiningerland is one of the centres of the German wine country.

the old gateway from Emichsburg Castle

When Count Friedrich IV died in 1316, his domains were divided into the lines of Leiningen-Dagsburg and Leiningen-Hardenburg. The former was based much further to the south and west, in the Vosges mountains, along what was for many centuries the frontier between Alsace and Lorraine—though both were part of the Empire until the seventeenth century, and both Alsace and this eastern edge of Lorraine were German speaking.

The County of Dagsburg is a fascinating fragment of Imperial feudalism that persisted as an independent entity well into the modern age, until it was finally absorbed by France during the Revolution (and renamed ‘Dabo’ as it is called today). It is most famous for its huge pink sandstone rock (or rocher) that towers over the forested valleys of the Vosges mountains. Atop this rock (elevation about 650 meters) an ancient castle perched rather precariously, as does today the Chapel of Saint-Léon, named for Dagsburg’s most famous son, Pope Leo IX (Léon in French). Originally built by the local ruling family called the Ettichonids (or the House of Alsace) in the tenth century, the castle was probably named for a former Frankish nobleman called Dago (so ‘Dago’s Castle’ or burg).

Dagsburg Castle in the Vosges, sketched in the 1660s
the Rock of Dagsburg (Dabo in French) today, with its chapel of St Leo, built in the 1890s (photo Gzen92)

In the mid-eleventh century Dagsburg’s heiress, Heilwig, married an Alsatian count of Egisheim. Heilwig has several legends associated with her, including the discovery of holy relics in local monasteries and the performance of great miracles. She is also famous as the mother of Bruno of Dagsburg-Egisheim, Bishop of Toul from 1026, elected Pope Leo IX in 1049. A major church reformer (though his inflexibility led to the permanent break with the Eastern Church in 1054), he has been venerated as a saint since shortly after his death. The Pope’s older brother, Hugo, continued the line of counts of Dagsburg until its extinction in 1212 and its inheritance by Countess Gertrude. Gertrude is a fascinating historical person, an heiress and a poet, before she married Simon III of Leiningen, she was also a duchess and a queen, having survived two much more prominent husbands: first Thibaut I, Duke of Lorraine, and secondly Thibaut IV of Champagne, King of Navarre.

an imagined 17th-century portrait of Gertude of Dagsburg (wrongly labelled Agnes) with her first husband Thibaut de Lorraine

So Gertrude of Dagsburg was quite a catch for the Leiningers, and their augmented status continued to be enhanced in the next century with two more bishops of Speyer (Heinrich and Emich), a bishop of Bamberg, and, finally, an archbishop of Mainz: Gottfried von Leiningen-Dagsburg scaled to the top of the ecclesiastical hierarchy in the Holy Roman Empire, and was also thus one of the seven imperial electors—though only briefly, from 1396 to 1397.

A further territory was added in 1344, a few miles to the west, across the crest of the Vosges: the County of Rixingen, or Ruxinge in French (many German place names ending in ‘ingen’ become ‘inge’ or ‘ange’ in French, including Leiningen itself, called Linange in French sources). Today the town is called Réchicourt, which is not a transliteration of Rixingen: the ancient Carolingian villa of ‘Richis Curtis’ became Réchicourt, while the Frankish village below was Ruadgisingen or Rixingen. Situated in the upper reaches of the river Saar, this was for centuries on the linguistic border between French and German. Its twelfth-century castle would be destroyed in 1469 in a conflict with the powerful Duke of Lorraine; later rebuilt in Renaissance style, in the 1660s it was sold to the Ahlefelt family. In the late eighteenth century the county was held by the Duke of Fronsac (in the Richelieu family) though it remained firmly outside the jurisdiction of the King of France until the Revolutionary wars of the 1790s. The last of the line of counts of Leiningen-Rixingen demonstrates well the trans-national character of this branch in particular: Philipp Ludwig, who converted to Catholicism in 1671, grew up in Lorraine (at the time occupied by France) and at first served in the army of France, then after 1688 shifted to Imperial service, but also served on the Privy Council of the Elector Palatine. He was killed as an Austrian general at the Battle of Cassano, 1705.

Philipp Ludwig, Count of Leiningen-Rixingen, Imperial general

The senior line of counts of Leiningen-Dagsburg continued to move between the Rhineland and their possessions in the Vosges until 1467 when the last count, Hesso, died; the family’s principal heiress Margarete married a nobleman from across the Rhine, Reinhard III, Lord of Westerburg, from a junior branch of the House of Runkel. We will encounter Runkel again in another post as the Princes of Wied-Runkel. Their lordship of Westerburg was situated across the Rhine in the hilly region called the Westerwald. The castle dominates a landscape wedged between the estates of the electors of Trier and the counts of Nassau. Built in the 1190s by the House of Leiningen, it was held by the Runkels from about 1220, forming a separate branch soon after, then, from the 1550s formed a separate branch of a renewed house of Leiningen-Westerburg. The castle remains in private hands today.

Westerburg Castle (photo Oliver Abels, SBT)

A reborn and rebranded dynasty, Leiningen-Westerburg, with the bulk of the Leiningen possessions west of the Rhine, and the Westerburg castles and lordships east of the Rhine, would divide, re-combine and re-divide until the end of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. Many of the Westerburg lands passed out of the family in the mid-seventeenth century, so the two remaining branches in the eighteenth century were called Leiningen-Westerburg-Altleiningen and Leiningen-Westerburg-Neuleiningen. They remained counts, not princes, so are not covered in detail here, but they were given compensatory lands like their princely cousins in 1803 when their estates west of the Rhine were confiscated by the French: the secularised abbeys of Ilbenstadt and Engelthal in the Wetterau. Several branches died out in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, with the last male of this line dying in 1956. Some of these distinguished themselves as soldiers, notably Viktor, an Austrian Field Marshal Lieutenant (d. 1880), and his cousin Karl, a Hungarian freedom fighter, killed during the uprisings of 1849. In the twentieth century, Count Wilhelm of Leiningen-Westerburg-Neuleiningen (d. 1956) was a prominent chemist, forestry scientist and university professor. 

Ilbenstadt, another secularised abbey for the Leiningen family in 1803 (photo Haral Gärtner)

One curious element about this split in the Leiningen family after 1316 and the extinction in the male line of the senior branch in 1467, was that both the new Leiningen-Westerburg family and the junior line—still ‘genuine’ Leiningers by patrilineal standards—kept the same arms, three silver eagles on blue, both marked by a three-point red label (since both were descended from a younger line of the House of Saarbrücken). The Westerburg branch quartered this with their own arms, a gold cross on red, with twenty smaller gold crosses.

the arms of Leiningen and Westerburg

Even though most of the old Leiningen territories went to the Westerburgs, the castle of Dagsburg passed back to the junior line based in Hardenburg. They also continued to acquire lands in and around the Duchy of Lorraine, like the lordship of Aspremont in 1466, in the Meuse valley, and the lordship of Weißenburg in Alsace (today’s Wissembourg). In my own research on the Duchy of Lorraine, I encounter these in the seventeenth century as ‘comtes de Linange’.

A further dynastic division in 1560 created the lines of Leiningen-Dagsburg-Hardenburg and Leiningen-Dagsburg-Falkenburg. The later were based at another castle deep in the Palatine Forest built on a rock of red sandstone and acquired by the family in about 1300. Entirely destroyed by the French in the 1680s, nothing remains of Falkenburg Castle. But by this point, these counts had moved to another castle, Heidesheim, closer to the main centres of Leiningen power, southwest of Worms, built in 1608. Another line settled further north in Guntersblum. These two lines came to an end in 1774, but two brothers, formerly excluded from the succession due to illegitimate descent, sued the main line of Leiningen and (surprisingly) won, re-creating two imperial counties in Guntersblum and Heidesheim, which persisted until the end of the Holy Roman Empire. Count Christian Karl of Leiningen-Dagsburg-Falkenburg-Guntersblum built a new Leiningen Palace in Guntersblum, in 1787—it remains a fine building, still privately owned.

the new Leiningen Schloss in Guntersblum (photo Jivee Blau)

Having only been re-established, these two tiny counties were overrun by the armies of revolutionary France in the 1790s, and both families fled (and Heidesheim Castle burned down); by a treaty between France and the Empire both were given lands in compensation in 1803, east of the Rhine: Guntersblum got Billigheim (formerly part of the lands of the Elector Palatine), while Heidesheim got Neudenau (formerly a fief of the Elector of Mainz). Both of these were almost immediately mediatised and joined to the new aggrandised Grand Duchy of Baden in 1806. These two cadet lines eventually died out, the last in 1925.

Meanwhile, in 1725, the main line of the family moved its main seat down from the mountain at Castle Hardenburg to the town of Dürkheim in the valley below. This was an ancient spa town, with several mineral springs. On the site of a Roman villa was an important medieval abbey (Limburg) and a mercantile town, acquired by the Leiningen family in 1554. Count Emich IX had already made the town the dynastic centre and built a new chapel there for the family necropolis in 1508. The town was destroyed by the French in the 1690s, so Count Freidrich Magnus rebuilt it and added a new residence for himself on the edge of town, Schloss Dürkheim, in the 1720s. This new baroque palace was soon augmented with formal gardens, completed by his son Karl Friedrich in the 1760s. He also added new wings, and converted one of these into a theatre open to the public, where several of his family members performed as amateurs. A few miles to the west, the counts built a smaller hunting lodge, Jägerthal, where the family resided in the summer months. But, as seems to happen a lot in this story, French armies invaded in the 1790s, with Schloss Dürkheim as a particular target since it had housed the commanders of the army of French noble émigrés, and both the city palace and the rural hunting lodge were completely destroyed. Neither was rebuilt, but in the nineteenth century, the town was developed into a spa town (and it changed its name in 1904 to Bad Dürkheim)—today its Kurhaus hosts a casino, spa and restaurant.

Schloss Dürkheim in 1787

From 1756, the head of the senior branch of Leiningen-Dagsburg-Hardenburg was Count Karl Friedrich, born in the new Schloss Dürkheim. He became a Chamberlain at the Imperial court and served the Elector Palatine on his Privy Council and as a lieutenant-general in his armies. In 1774, he inherited the lands of the Leiningen-Falkenburg branch (though as seen above, he later had to give them back), so in 1779, Emperor Joseph II augmented his status by elevating him to princely rank—though not fully autonomous like other Imperial princes: he had did not have an independent vote in the Diet, but voted as a member of the College of Counts of the Wetterau, the collective body at the Diet representing the high nobility of the Middle Rhine.

Karl Friedrich, 1st Prince of Leiningen

In the 1790s, as French revolutionary armies advanced towards the Rhine, they incorporated many German principalities into the expanding French Republic. The Prince of Leiningen lost his lands west of the Rhine, but according to the Treaty of Lunéville (1801), he was compensated, with lands taken from secularised ecclesiastical territories on the other side of the Rhine. A re-constituted Principality of Leiningen, created in 1803, was formed from lands east of the city of Heidelberg taken from a now secularised Archbishopric of Mainz—notably the Abbey of Amorbach, which became its capital—and from the Electoral Palatinate—including another former abbey, Mosbach—plus some smaller fiefs from the Bishopric of Würzburg to the east. Added to his princely title, Karl Friedrich’s other formal titles now included Count Palatine of Mosbach, Count of Düren, Lord of Amorbach and so on.

The Abbey of Amorbach was one of four grand abbeys established by the Frankish kings of the eighth century to help convert this region (Franconia). It was for a while an independent Imperial abbey, but by the tenth century was under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Würzburg, then in 1656 transferred to that of the Archbishop of Mainz. The abbey church and its residence were rebuilt in the 1740s in a baroque style. In the 1780s, it was given a new organ, which remains one of the finest in the world. After 1803, the abbey church was given to the local parish (now Protestant) while the residence became the first seat of the princes of Leiningen. A few streets away, one of the archbishops of Mainz who had been born in Amorbach built a residence for himself there in the 1720s, and this became the preferred residence for the princes of Leiningen, and remains their private home today.

the former Abbey of Amorbach, with the princely residence to the right
on the edge of town, the Leiningen Palace of Amorbach, painted in 1857 (and the Catholic church of St Gangolf)

Having barely been created, the Principality of Leiningen was mediatised in 1806, and absorbed within the new Grand Duchy of Baden (today part of the state of Baden-Württemberg). After the Congress of Vienna of 1814-15, the former lands of the old County of Leiningen in the Palatinate—on the west bank of the Rhine—were given to the new Kingdom of Bavaria. Baden also ceded some of its territory, including Amorbach, to Bavaria. The 1st (and only independent) Prince of Leiningen died only a year later, in 1807. He was succeeded by his son, Emich Karl, who had long run the affairs of the family, particularly negotiating the delicate balance between French and Imperial politics.

Emich Carl, 2nd Prince of Leiningen

The 2nd Prince had married twice, both to women with later connections to Queen Victoria. The first was Countess Henriette of Reuss-Ebersdorf, from the curiously Pietist branch of that minor princely house from Thuringia, whose sister Augusta would become the grandmother of both Victoria and her husband Prince Albert. A year after their only child, Hereditary Prince Friedrich Karl, died in 1800, she also died. With no surviving children to sustain the newly created principality, the Prince married his wife’s niece, the much younger Princess Victoria of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, and they had two children, Karl and Feodora. He died in 1814, and his widow remarried the Duke of Kent in May 1818, giving birth to Princess Victoria of Great Britain and Hanover almost exactly one year later. For that first year of their marriage, the Duke and Duchess of Kent lived in the Leiningen Palace in Amorbach, so it is interesting to consider that the eminent British queen was conceived in Leiningen territory.

Victoria of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, Dowager Princess of Leiningen, now Duchess of Kent (1818)

Queen Victoria’s elder half-brother, Karl, 3rd Prince of Leiningen, born in 1804, was educated in art and in law. Encouraged by the liberal outlook of the both the British royal family and the House of Saxe-Coburg, he took an active part in the reinvigorated political life of Germany, as a member of the Diet of the Grand Duchy of Baden, but also in the legislative body of the Kingdom of Bavaria (in which his seat, Amorbach, was located). In fact, he rose to the rank of President of the Bavarian Upper House in 1842, and lieutenant-general in the Bavarian Army. He had a reputation as a reformer, and an advocate for parliamentary government and limits to aristocratic privilege. So when a democratic movement swept across Europe in 1848, German liberals created a new central government based in Frankfurt, and in August, named Archduke John of Austria as ‘Regent’ and the Prince of Leiningen as First Minister (of the ‘Provisional Central Power’). Delegates to the Diet of Frankfurt appreciated the balance of a Catholic Archduke and a Lutheran prince, as well as Leiningen’s connections with the British establishment, hoping this could sustain their revolution. By September, however, Prussia defied the rest of the constituent states of this German confederation in making a separate peace with Denmark over the Schleswig-Holstein Question (ask Prince Albert to explain it), and Leiningen resigned as First Minister. By May 1849, the Austrian and Prussian delegates had abandoned the National Assembly in Frankfurt altogether and it dwindled away and died. The 3rd Prince also died, in 1856.

Karl, 3rd Prince of Leiningen

In his personal life, Prince Karl’s tastes also reflected his British connections: in 1828, he built a new princely residence in the forests southwest of Amorbach, the Odenwald. His father had developed a wildlife park here and built a small hunting lodge named Waldleiningen, after the forests of Leiningen his family had left behind. The new castle was built on a grander scale, in a romantic neogothic style, inspired by Abbotsford, the gothic novelist Sir Walter Scott’s country house in the Scottish Borders. In World War II Waldleiningen was converted into a hospital and today is run by the princely house as a private psychiatric clinic.

Waldleiningen, painted in 1863 by August Becker (Royal Collection)

Karl’s sister, Princess Feodora, born in 1807, was fully named Anna Feodora, after her maternal aunt, Juliane of Saxe-Coburg, who had married a Russian grand duke and adopted the name Anna Feodorovna. Feodora of Leiningen was raised and educated in Kensington Palace alongside her younger half-sister Victoria, by their beloved German governess, Baroness Lehzen. In 1825, she was courted by a young man still trying to figure out his place in the British royal family: Augustus d’Este, the son of the Duke of Sussex and Lady Augusta Murray, whose marriage was seen as legal in some circles, but not recognised by the royal family, so the boy’s attempts to call himself ‘Prince Augustus’ were scorned, and his pleading letters to Princess Feodora—which you can see in the National Archives at Kew—got him nowhere. Another suitor was the Duke of Nassau, head of the newly augmented House of Nassau-Weilburg. This match would have made Feodora a sovereign duchess, but according to most narratives, her mother the Duchess of Kent was concerned about any hint of overshadowing her half-sister the future queen, so in 1828, when she was 21, Feodora (sometimes spelled Feodore by the family) was married to a prince, but a very minor one: Ernst I, Prince of Hohenlohe-Langenburg. He was a cousin of Adelaide of Saxe-Meiningen, Duchess of Clerence (soon to be Queen Adelaide), who facilitated the match. Hohenlohe, like Leiningen, was an ancient imperial county that had been elevated to full princely status in the eighteenth century (slightly earlier, in 1744), then mediatised and absorbed into its larger neighbour, the Kingdom of Württemberg. Its lands were further east than Leiningen, in the borderlands between Württemberg and Bavaria, notably its main princely seat, the castle of Langenburg, where Feodora lived out the remaining years of her life, raising six children, and corresponding frequently with Queen Victoria. She visited Britain a number of times, notably at her half-sister’s coronation in 1838.

Princess Feodora of Leiningen in 1818, George Dawe (Royal Collection)

Continuing the line, Princess Feodora’s nephew, Ernst, 4th Prince of Leiningen, was born at Amorbach and spent much of his childhood here or at the British court. In 1849, he joined the British navy, and served all over the world, notably in Burma and the Crimea. Given the rank of captain in 1860, he commanded Her Majesty’s Yacht Victoria and Albert. In 1863, he was suggested to take up the throne of the Kingdom of Greece by the British government (as an alternative to Victoria’s son Prince Alfred, which the Great Powers rejected), but he declined. Years later there was even a suggestion he could become Duke of Lorraine in 1890, in an effort to stabilise that region annexed by the German Empire—this would have been an interesting return of the House of ‘Linange’ to that region, heirs to the Rock of Dagsburg. By that point, Ernst had retired from the Royal Navy with a rank of Admiral (from 1887), having served as Commander-in-Chief of the Nore (the Thames Estuary and Medway), 1885 to 1887. He certainly kept up family ties with Britain, with both his children, Alberta and Emich, born at Osborne House, Queen Victoria’s summer residence on the Isle of Wight. Ernst paid attention to his duties as a German prince too, marrying Princess Marie of Baden in 1858, attending sessions of the upper houses of the diets of Bavaria and Baden, and improving his estates, notably converting poorly developed agricultural lands into forestry (in the Odenwald). He died in 1904.

Ernst, 4th Prince of Leiningen

Emich, 5th Prince of Leiningen, has a much smaller profile, and spent most of his career in Germany, tending his estates, and serving in the Prussian army. In 1894, he married his second cousin, Princess Feodora of Hohenlohe-Langenburg, and they had several children (the eldest son, Emich Ernst, was killed in the First World War on the Western Front in March 1918 at age 22). The Prince managed to secure his inheritance in 1925 (at a time when government pressure was trying to break up the large aristocratic estates), then drifted to the right and joined the Nazi Party in 1933. He died six years later, on the eve of World War II.

Emich, 5th Prince of Leiningen, and Feodora of Hohenlohe-Langenburg

The 6th Prince, Karl, also joined the Nazi Party and served in the war that broke out just as he assumed headship of the family. He was taken prisoner by the Soviets and died in the USSR in 1946. Interestingly, he had married a Russian princess, Grand Duchess Maria Kirillovna, back in 1925. And she was not just any Russian princess who had survived the Revolution, but the sister of Grand Duke Vladimir, who, since 1938 had claimed the throne of the old Russian Empire. A further connection with Great Britain was reinforced as well: her mother was Princess Victoria Melita of Saxe-Coburg, daughter of Prince Alfred and thus granddaughter of Queen Victoria.

Grand Duchess Maria Kirillovna of Russia in 1925

This re-connection to the senior royal families in Europe (regnant or deposed) was re-asserted even further in the next generation: the eldest son, Emich Kyrill (7th Prince of Leiningen), married Duchess Eilike, daughter of the Grand Duke of Oldenburg; Prince Karl married Princess Marie Louise, older sister of King Simeon II of Bulgaria; Princess Kira married Prince Andrew of Yugoslavia; and Princess Margarita married Friedrich Wilhelm, Prince of Hohenzollern (head of the Swabian branch of that family). An even longer-term impact was that the eldest son of Emich and Eilike, Prince Karl Emich, would be named by the Monarchist Party of Russia in 2013 as head of their movement to reclaim the throne of Russia. But that’s getting ahead of ourselves a bit.

The 7th Prince of Leiningen, a businessman in postwar West Germany, kept much of the family fortune together until his death in 1991. That same year, he had disinherited his oldest son due to an unequal marriage (though hardly a commoner—a member of the extended Thyssen business clan, and later after a divorce, the second wife of the 4th Aga Khan), and so the succession passed to his younger brother, Andreas (b. 1955), who today is the 8th Prince of Leiningen. Andreas had certainly satisfied the requirement to marry a princess through his 1981 marriage to Princess Alexandra of Hanover, sister of the current head of the House of Hanover. Their son the Hereditary Prince, Friedrich (b. 1982) did the same, marrying Princess Victoria Luise of Prussia, though they only have two daughters, so in the future the headship of the House of Leiningen will pass to Prince Hermann (b. 1987) or his son Prince Leopold (b. 2019).

Andreas, 8th Prince of Leiningen and his wife, Princess Alexandra of Hanover

Meanwhile, Prince Karl Emich and his third wife, Countess Isabelle von und zu Egloffstein, were invited to occupy a nebulous throne by the Monarchist Party of Russia in 2013. This group adheres strictly to the Pauline Laws of succession in Russia, saying the throne (or claims to it) cannot pass to a woman, thus denouncing the claims of the Grand Duchess Maria Vladimirovna and her son Yuri, who have claimed to be heads of the House of Romanov since 1992. Karl Emich is a great-great-great-grandson of Tsar Alexander II, and although he also descends via a female (his grandmother Maria Kirillovna), his supporters deem him ‘more acceptable’ than Maria Vladimirovna since they consider her parents’ marriage to be unequal. The Prince of Leiningen converted to Russian Orthodoxy and took the name Nikolai Kirillovich Romanov or ‘Nicholas III’. Since then, the MPR has tried to acquire some land it can declare sovereign, over which their ‘Russian Imperial State’ can rule—apparently trying to acquire land in Russia itself, or Montenegro or offshore in the Mediterranean…or even as far off as the Gambia or Kiribati in the South Pacific. The Prince has a son and heir, Emich Albrecht, born in 2010.

Prince Karl Emich of Leiningen, claimant to the Russian throne, in 2014 (photo Anton Bakov)

Though there are now two princely lines established, with strong connections to the royal houses of Germany and Russia, the likelihood of either the Sovereign Principality of Leiningen or the Russian Empire or the being reborn is slight. Nevertheless, the Leiningen story is a good example of how a family dispossessed of its ancient lands can rebuild again using the strong connections of a half-sister of Queen Victoria.

The Dukes of Orléans: A ‘Spare’ Title for France’s Second Sons (Part II)

Shortly after his marriage to his first cousin, Princess Henrietta of England, in March 1661, Philippe de France, second son of Louis XIII and younger brother of Louis XIV, was given the Orléans apanage (for its earlier history, see Part I). Philippe had, as Gaston had before him, been known as Duke of Anjou, but just as a courtesy title. He was now formally Duke of Orléans, Duke of Chartres and Duke of Valois. Louis XIV restricted his brother’s access to the full wealth of the apanage however, by keeping the castles of Blois and Chambord for the Crown. Later Philippe’s apanage was augmented (at the time of his second marriage in 1671) with the Duchy of Nemours, and eventually (though many years later) he inherited significant properties from Gaston’s daughter, La Grande Mademoiselle, notably the Duchy of Montpensier and the Principality of Joinville—these latter two were not part of the apanage, but held as private property (ie, they could pass to a daughter or could be sold).

Philippe de France, Duke of Orléans, known as ‘Monsieur’ as brother of the King

Philippe, Duke of Orléans, is different to his predecessors in that he had very little to do with the Orléannais. He did build the Orléans Canal, connecting the Loire to the Seine (via the Loiret) in the 1680s, but his life was lived almost exclusively at court or his preferred residences: the Palais-Royal in the heart of Paris, or the Château of Saint-Cloud on the road towards Versailles. The former was initially the grand palace built close to the Louvre by the First Minister of Louis XIII, Cardinal Richelieu, in 1629, so was known as the Palais Richelieu. After he died in 1642, it was taken over by Queen Anne and her two little boys, Louis XIV and Philippe, as a more comfortable residence compared to the old fortress of the Louvre. Renamed the Palais-Royal, it was given as a residence to Philippe after he married in 1661, then added more completely to his apanage in 1692—it thus remained part of the Orléans patrimony until the middle of the nineteenth century. Since the proclamation of the Third Republic it has housed various government institutions, notably the Council of State as well as the Ministry of Culture, which is appropriate since once wing still houses the Comédie-Française, which, in one form or another, has existed here since the Duke of Orléans installed the theatre troupe of Molière in the 1660s.

the Palais Royal in Paris, residence of the dukes of Orléans from the 1660s to the 1840s (today the seat of the Council of State)

The Château of Saint-Cloud, initially built by the Gondi family of Florentine bankers on the outskirts of the city of Paris, it was purchased for Philippe by Cardinal Mazarin in 1658. It became his pride and joy, and the focus of his herculean patronage efforts in the 1670s-80s. Perched high above a bend in the river Seine, its chief glory was a grand waterfall called La Cascade, which is the only part of Saint-Cloud to remain visible today. Inside the château was a golden chamber where Philippe received guests, a gallery for Chinese porcelains and Japanese lacquers, and even a hall of mirrors, built several years before the more famous hall of that name at Versailles. Unfortunately, the Château of Saint-Cloud burned down in the turmoil at the end of the Franco-Prussian War in 1870.

the chateau of Saint-Cloud, by Allegrain, with its famous Cascade down to the Seine

If Philippe wanted to go further afield, unlike Gaston he did not go south to the Loire valley, but north to his Duchy of Valois and its chief château, Villers-Cotterêts. Built as a royal castle by François I in the 1530s on the site of an old hunting lodge, it was the site of a significant edict, in 1539, by which the King decreed that French, not Latin, would henceforth be the language of government and law. In 1661, it was given to Philippe as part of his apanage, and he spent much time here in the time of his first marriage to Henrietta of England, particularly at times when he left the court to protest against a decision made by his brother the King. Villers-Cotterêts remained in the Orléans family until the French Revolution when it was confiscated and given over for use by the French army, then in the nineteenth century was used as a home for the poor, and later a retreat for the elderly. This lasted until 2014 when the building was basically abandoned and was left to rot, until the French president established a Cité Internationale de la Langue Française—to commemorate the edict of 1539—and re-opened a renovated palace in 2023.

the chateau of Villers-Cotterêts in the 18th century

The Duke of Orléans had a huge apartment at Versailles as well, adjacent to the central core apartments of the King and the Queen. Known simply as ‘Monsieur’ as the brother of the King, Philippe was known as a prince who was loyal and fun, even frivolous and scandalous due to his fairly open sexual preference for men and his long-term relationship with the Chevalier de Lorraine. But he could be serious and reliable, offering support and counsel to his brother when needed on issues of court etiquette and proving himself as a commander on the battlefield, notably at the Battle of Cassel in Flanders where he defeated the Prince of Orange in 1677.

Philippe also did his duty in terms of the dynasty. He had a male partner for over thirty years, the Chevalier de Lorraine, but married twice, both for diplomatic reasons, and produced seven healthy children. His first wife was Henrietta, sister of the King of England, and his second was Elisabeth-Charlotte, daughter of the Elector Palatine of the Rhine. Naturally his focus was on having a son, to pass on the Orléans apanage. Philippe-Charles, Duke of Valois, was born in 1664, but died 2½ years later. Another Duke of Valois was born in 1673, Alexandre-Louis, followed by a second son, Philippe-Charles, called the Duke of Chartres, in 1674. Valois died in 1676, but Chartres survived, and as Philippe II, succeeded his father as Duke of Orléans in 1701.

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A new House of Orléans was born—the first since the fifteenth century—and survived and thrived throughout the eighteenth century as the second royal family of France. Thanks to the work of Philippe I, a financial empire had been created that allowed them to be autonomous from the French Crown, a factor that irked their cousins Louis XV and Louis XVI.

From 1709, the Orléans princes added a new title: ‘First Prince of the Blood’. This was not given to Philippe II, since he already held a higher rank, ‘Grandson of France’, but to his son, Louis, born in 1703, and as his father had been, titled Duke of Chartres. This elevation in status meant that the Prince of Condé no longer held the prestigious title (and its pension) of ‘First Prince of the Blood’, and these two branches of the royal family, Bourbon-Orléans and Bourbon-Condé, would be rivals for the rest of the century. This rivalry was fiercest early on, when Philippe II was named Regent of France in 1715, in charge of the government during the minority of Louis XV (born in 1710), and Condé (known by his secondary title Duke of Bourbon) was given a seat on the Regency Council, but also looked after the King’s household as Grand Master of France. The two men were also brothers-in-law, both having married illegitimate daughters of Louis XIV. The Regency of the Duke of Orléans was a period of experimentation in government, mostly unsuccessful, though the King kept him on as First Minister when the Regency formally ended in 1722. When Orléans died in 1723, he was succeeded in this role by the Duke of Bourbon, who swiftly undid most of his rival’s policies, particularly in foreign policy.

Philippe, 2nd Duke of Orléans, Regent of France, with his son the Duke of Chartres

For Orléans had not only solidified the King’s position abroad by arranging a marriage with the daughter of the King of Spain, he also ensured that the House of Orléans shared in this glory, by sending two of his own daughters to wed Spanish princes. Despite loathing his wife, Françoise-Marie de Bourbon, from the very start of their marriage (he called her ‘Madame Lucifer’), Philippe II had seven healthy children. Aside from the son and heir noted already, the eldest daughter ‘Mademoiselle’ (as the eldest unmarried daughter of the cadet line was always known) had been married to Louis XIV’s grandson, the Duke of Berry, while ‘Mlle de Valois’ was sent abroad to marry the Duke of Modena, before ‘Mlle de Montpensier’ and ‘Mlle de Beaujolais’ were sent off to Spain in 1723 to marry Crown Prince Luis and his brother Infante Felipe. The Crown Princess, Louise-Elisabeth, became Queen of Spain briefly in 1724, but due to her husband’s sudden death and her universally loathed behaviour, she (and her sister) were sent back to France, like unwanted packages. Once Louis XV began having children of his own, the children of the House of Orléans would return to their secondary position, as princes of the blood with the style of ‘Serene Highness’.

Luisa Isabel de Orleans, Queen of Spain (for seven months)

The new Duke of Orléans, Louis, was of a very different character to either his intellectual father or his vivacious grandfather. He seemed to have inherited some of his grandmother Madame de Montespan’s headstrong passions: as a young man he loved and he fought with vigour, not always forethought, and in middle age, he threw himself completely into a life of religious contemplation, retiring from the world of the court and becoming known as the ‘Hermit of Sainte-Geneviève’ (the abbey near the Latin quarter in Paris). Louis ‘the Pious’ had a short marriage to a German princess, Jeanne de Bade (Baden), which produced one child, a son, Louis-Philippe, Duke of Chartres (b. 1725).

Louis, 3rd Duke of Orléans

Louis-Philippe, 4th Duke of Orléans, succeeded to this title in 1752. When he came of age in 1740, he had initially been proposed as a groom for Louis XV’s second daughter, Madame Henriette, and the teen-aged couple had even displayed real affection for each other; but it was decided that such a marriage would emphasise the Orléans cousins too much as potential heirs to the French throne and antagonise strained relations with Philip V of Spain. So the prince was married instead to another, more distant, Bourbon cousin, ‘Mlle de Conti’, in 1743, in an effort to heal the breach between the Orléans and Condé/Conti branches of the family. This marriage was not more successful than his grandparents’ had been, and they produced only two children, Louis-Philippe II, Duke of Chartres, and Bathilde. Orléans revealed his attachment to the ideas of the French Enlightenment through the education of these children, and in 1756 they were made examples of for the entire court by being inoculated for smallpox. Orléans was also an ally of his brother-in-law, the Prince of Conti, an influential member of the ‘loyal opposition’ to the King’s inclinations towards continued absolutism rather than the fresh political ideas of the era.

Louis-Philippe I, 4th Duke of Orléans

The 4th Duke of Orléans set out to expand the already vast Orléans empire, adding the county of Soissons to his apanage in 1751, and the nearby lordships of La Fère, Marle and Ham in Picardy. Like his great-grandfather, he increased his revenues by developing a waterway, the Ourcq Canal, to bring supplies and fresh water to Paris from his duchy of Valois; and developed the area around the Palais-Royal in Paris for commercial enterprise. His wife died in 1759, and the widowed Duke settled far from court at a large château he purchased in the countryside east of Paris, Le Raincy. This château had been built in the mid-seventeenth century and owned by the Princess Palatine (Anne de Gonzague) then her daughter the Princess of Condé. The Duke of Orléans now redesigned the château and developed its gardens in the newly fashionable English style.

the chateau of Le Raincy in the 17th century

Orléans moved here with his mistress, the widowed Marquise de Montesson. They forged a committed relationship and the King agreed to their marriage in 1773, as long as it remained secret and she was not given any rights or titles. The Duke was mocked by members of high society, who quipped that “unable to make Madame de Montesson a Duchess of Orléans, he made himself Monsieur de Montesson”. The new couple acquired yet another château, Sainte-Assise, southeast of Paris on the road to Fontainebleau. Here the Duke put on great entertainments for his guests, with plays written and acted by the Marquise. Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette refused to visit what they saw as a shocking set up, which further distanced Orléans from his support of the Crown. This château has survived, modified, passing through many hands until it was owned by the princes of Beauvau, but since the 1920s property of a radio broadcasting company.

the chateau of Saint-Assise in 1921

The Duke of Orléans was already annoyed with the royal family since he had tried to negotiate a marriage for his son with Princess Kunigunde of Poland in 1769, but was blocked by the King who thought that Chartres was not of sufficient rank to marry the daughter of a king. The Duke arranged instead a wedding to the daughter of the Duke of Penthièvre, a Bourbon, but from an illegitimate branch. Members of the court mocked him again, scorning this marriage as a mésalliance. A convincing factor was of course the bride’s vast fortune: a dowry worth about four million livres in real estate, and some of the finest châteaux of the Loire valley.

The union of two of the grandest fortunes in France, Orléans and Penthièvre, in 1769, ensured that the family could act independently of the Crown, and both the Duke of Orléans and the Duke of Chartres shocked the court by signing a letter of protest against the King’s plans to dismiss the parlements of France in 1771—along with several other princes of the blood, they were exiled from court. The Palais-Royal became a focal point for political discontent against the troubled regime of Louis XV.

Louis-Philippe II d’Orléans as Duke of Chartres, with Marie-Adélaïde de Bourbon-Penthièvre and two of their children (including the future King Louis-Philippe)

As a new reign began in 1774, the Duke of Orléans retreated to the Château de Sainte-Assise with his wife, Madame de Montesson. The Duke of Chartres, named formally Louis-Philippe II but referred to generally as Philippe, was also socially isolated, despite his early friendship with Marie-Antoinette and the bright young things at court. Like them, he too accumulated debts through lavish living and grand patronage of artists and architects. One of his early projects was the pleasure gardens at Monceau, on the northern edge of Paris. This ‘fantasy park’ brought together elements from around the world: a Chinese pagoda, an Egyptian pyramid, a Roman colonnade, a Dutch windmill… The Duke’s servants walked around the park dressed in Chinese costume or as animals. He later added a large rotunda, the Pavillon de Chartres, with offices on the ground floor and an apartment above for himself and his mistresses.

the Duke of Chartres’ pleasure gardens at Monceau

Meanwhile Chartres was raising two families. With his wife Marie-Adélaïde (the former ‘Mlle de Penthièvre’), he had a son, Louis-Philippe III, Duke of Valois, in 1773, followed by another, Antoine-Philippe, Duke of Montpensier, in 1775. These boys were followed by twin girls in 1777, Mlle d’Orléans and Mlle de Chartres, and then another son, Louis-Charles, Count of Beaujolais, in 1779. The Duke was also raising two foundling daughters with his mistress, the Comtesse de Genlis, a niece of Madame de Montesson who had been appointed as a lady-in-waiting to his wife. The more well-known of these daughters, Paméla, was officially an orphan, but may have been Chartres’ child. All the children were raised together, with Madame de Genlis as their governess. She already had a reputation as an educationalist; her aim was to mould the young princes with values of humility and public service. They read Voltaire and Rousseau, and she encouraged them to gain confidence and poise through theatre—she even published an educational tract on this theme, amongst her other works on the education of princes and of women.

a popular engraving of the famous Madame de Genlis at her writing desk

Madame de Genlis’ focus on educating young women had the most impact on Mlle d’Orléans, Adélaïde, who became a respected intellect as an adult; she never married and remained a constant figure at the side of her brother Louis-Philippe well into the nineteenth century. Paméla went abroad during the Revolution and married Lord Edward Fitzgerald, a leader of the Irish Revolt of 1798, during which he was arrested and died in prison.

The Duke and Duchess of Chartres lived mainly at the Palais-Royal in Paris and sometimes at their suburban residence the Château of Saint-Cloud. But Saint-Cloud had been neglected, and just before he died in 1785, the old Duke of Orléans sold it to the Crown. The new 5th Duke of Orléans was able to use these funds therefore to focus his attentions on expanding the gardens at his father’s favoured country retreat, the Château of Le Raincy. Already the most English of the Bourbon princes, Philippe d’Orléans refashioned the gardens along the latest English styles. He even built a small café for visitors in which the waiters spoke English. He also had a new English mistress, the well-known socialite Grace Elliott. Ever the anglophile, the prince spent a good deal of time in London, with a house on Portland Place, living incognito as the ‘Count of Joinville’. He desired nothing more than to live as a ‘Milord Anglais’, investing in business, betting on horses at Newmarket, and gambling with his old friend, and fellow liberal, Charles James Fox.

Philippe, 5th Duke of Orléans

With two families and expensive building projects, Orléans thus needed employment. As part of his marriage arrangements with the daughter of the Duke of Penthièvre, Admiral of France, it was understood that Philippe would embark on a naval career and ultimately succeed his father-in-law in this prestigious post. He had begun service in the navy in 1772, served in a few campaigns, and by 1778 was a junior admiral. But that summer he made a crucial command error during the battle of Ouessant (‘Ushant’ in English) off the coast of Brittany that allowed the British navy to escape. He was not given another command, further alienating him from Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette.

By the mid-1780s, Orléans had a significant political faction of his own, supporting opponents of the Crown known as the ‘Patriot Party’. In 1784, he allowed a banned play, ‘The Marriage of Figaro’ to be put on at the Comédie française, the theatre supported by him at the Palais-Royal. He took part in the Assembly of the Notables in 1787, where he protested against the Crown’s fiscal proposals and called for an Estates General. The King clashed violently with his cousin the Duke, publicly, in Parlement: when the Duke questioned the legality of a new law being presented, the King shouted ‘It is legal because I wish it!’ Orléans was once again forbidden from appearing in Parlement, and two of his supporters were arrested. In the winter of 1788-89, the Palais-Royal hummed with activity, printing pamphlets to agitate the public.

As Revolution broke out in Paris in the summer of 1789, the Palais-Royal remained the nerve centre for popular radicalism, where cries for reform became ever louder. The Estates General proclaimed itself a National Assembly on 20 June, and most of the clergy defied the King by joining it on 25 June, followed the next day by nearly fifty nobles—led by Philippe, Duke of Orléans, First Prince of the Blood. He was soon asked to preside over that body, but refused. He also rejected—at least publicly—calls to name him Lieutenant-General of the Kingdom or regent for the Dauphin, or even king himself. Orléans at first tried to act as a mediator between the Assembly and his cousin the King, but was pushed away by the court. The King sent him as a diplomatic envoy to Great Britain, where he tried to use his popularity in high society in London to forge a career as international diplomat. By mid-1790 his popularity in Paris was fading as the revolution radicalised and anyone with connections to the Old Regime, no matter how liberal their personal politics, became suspect. Many found it suspicious that much of his private fortune had been moved into British banks and investments.

Nevertheless, the Duke of Orléans continued to demonstrate his devotion to the Revolution. He joined the Jacobin Club, and after the King’s attempted flight from France in June 1791, formally asserted his loyalty and again dismissed ideas of making him regent or king. He even changed his name: after the proclamation of the Republic in September 1792 and his election as a deputy to the Convention, he took the name ‘Philippe Égalité’. His eldest son Louis-Philippe eagerly followed his father’s lead; he joined the Army of the North in the summer of 1791, and swiftly gained glory, notably at one of the first victories of the revolutionary armies at Quiévrain, April 1792. In January 1793, Égalité made his most powerful mark on the history of France by voting for the death of Louis XVI, and opposing any efforts to amend the sentence to exile or life imprisonment.

a loyal citizen of the French Republic

But only a few months later, the defection of General Dumouriez into Austrian service, prompted the start of the Terror. Crucially, Dumouriez had convinced Égalité’s son, the former Duke of Chartres, to go with him. This defection made it clear to the revolutionary government that no one of royal blood could be trusted. On 1 April 1793, a decree was passed in the National Convention that condemned to death anyone with connections to counter-revolution. Philippe Égalité had voted in favour, yet just seven days later, he himself was arrested and taken to prison. He was put on trial on 6 November and guillotined the same day.

The new (if nominal) Duke of Orléans, Louis-Philippe III, age 20, headed to Switzerland where he moved from place to place, teaching classes to earn much-needed money, then began several years of far-reaching—and rather extraordinary for a Bourbon prince—peregrinations in Europe and North America. After a year in Scandinavia in 1795, he travelled to the United States, settling at first in Philadelphia. Joined by his brothers Montpensier and Beaujolais, he spent time in New York City and Boston, and travelled as far as Tennessee and Maine. In early 1798, hearing that their mother had been deported from France, the brothers travelled south to New Orleans, the city named for their great-great-grandfather, the Regent Orléans, hoping to return to Europe. After a year, they finally made their way back and settled in Twickenham, in the western suburbs of London. Here they watched as the Napoleonic wars unfolded, maintained by the British government as potential political or diplomatic pawns.

Louis-Philippe III, Duke of Chartres, as a lieutenant-general in 1792 (the year before he became 6th Duke of Orléans)

In 1809 the Duke of Orléans journeyed to Sicily where he met and married his cousin, Maria Amalia, daughter of King Ferdinand IV. The marriage had been fiercely opposed by Queen Maria Carolina—the sister of Marie-Antoinette—who harboured great anger against the regicide Philippe Égalité, the groom’s late father. The new couple remained in Palermo, in a residence near the Royal Palace, the ‘Palazzo Orléans’, where three of their children were born before they finally returned to France in 1814. The Palazzo Orléans would remain an important Orléans residence until it was seized by the Italian state in 1940—today it serves as the seat of the president and the Regional Council of Sicily.

the Palazzo Orleans in Palermo today (photo How Rapid)

Sadly, neither of the Duke’s brothers survived the revolutionary period. Both Montpensier and Beaujolais had been kept in prison in Marseilles for several years after their father’s arrest, and both suffered long-term damage to their health. After their adventures in America, Montpensier’s health worsened and he died near Windsor in 1807; while Beaujolais, who had joined the British Navy in 1804, tried to improve his health by visiting the Mediterranean, but he too died, on Malta, in 1808. The Dowager Duchess of Orléans also survived the Revolution. Despite her disinterest in revolutionary politics, following her husband’s execution, the ‘Veuve Égalité’ had been brought back to Paris in late 1793 and imprisoned in the Luxembourg Palace; here she met and fell in love with a disgraced Girondin deputy, Jacques-Marie Rouzet, who later obtained Marie-Adélaïde’s freedom and lived with her in Paris until both were exiled in 1797. They resided first in Spain, then in 1809 joined the small Orléans court in Palermo, then returned to France in June 1814.

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At the Restoration of the French Monarchy in Spring 1814, Louis XVIII made every effort to reconcile the two branches of the royal family. The 6th Duke of Orléans, Louis-Philippe III, returned to France from Sicily with his wife and children. At first an eager supporter of his royal cousin’s regime, when Napoleon returned from Elba in March 1815, Orléans did not accompany the King and his court to Ghent, and instead established connections with the Bonapartist government. Thus the hereditary mistrust of the two branches was rekindled and continued to fester in the second Bourbon Restoration through minor but very public humiliations, like denying Orléans the use of the royal box at the Opera. Although an avowed liberal, Orléans was strongly attached to etiquette and hated being slighted socially, for example being treated as a ‘Serene Highness’ when, in comparison, visiting foreign princes from junior ruling houses like Bavaria and Saxony were now ‘Royal Highness’. When Charles X took the throne in 1825, he tried to balance this by decreeing that all princes of the blood would be Royal Highnesses.

Louis-Philippe, 6th Duke of Orléans, First Prince of the Blood, in the Restoration (1820s)

The Orléans family residence was re-established at the Palais-Royal in the centre of Paris, where Duchess Marie-Amélie was formally hostess. She had a relatively reserved personality, and society looked instead to the Duke’s sister, Adélaïde, ‘Mademoiselle’, as the real political hostess. She ran a salon attended by Parisian liberals and clashed with the senior women of the royal family. The Duke’s mother, the Dowager Duchess Marie-Adélaïde set about asserting her possession of the numerous properties she had inherited from her father, the Duke of Penthièvre. One of the major châteaux added to the Orléans holdings at this time was Amboise, in the Loire valley. Amboise, in Touraine, had been a royal property since Charles VII confiscated it from the powerful Amboise family in 1434. It had been part of the apanage of Gaston, Duke of Orléans, between the 1620s and 1660s, but was otherwise maintained as a royal, not ducal, property—associated probably the most with King Francis I and his invited Italian master, Leonardo da Vinci (who lived in the smaller château next door 1516-19). Gifted by Louis XV to his First Minister the Duke of Choiseul, and after his death purchased by the Duke of Penthièvre, it thus entered the portfolio of the dukes of Orléans. In the nineteenth century the family set out to restore it to its former glory, and the family foundation, the Fondation Saint-Louis continues to do so today.

the chateau of Amboise (photo Gzen92)

Besides the Dowager Duchess’s recouping of properties like Amboise, but also the Norman estates of Eu and Aumale, her most enduring contribution to the House of Orléans was the construction of a new site, the Royal Chapel of Saint-Louis, built at Dreux from 1816, a fantastic example of Neo-Gothic architecture, about an hour west of Paris. It became the necropolis for the Orléans family and a centre for royal ritual and memory—which it remains to this day.

the Chapelle Royale Saint-Louis de Dreux, the Orléans family necropolis (photo Renaud d’Avout)

The Orléans family also acquired a new country residence: the Château of Neuilly, in the western suburbs of Paris. Neuilly had been built in the 1750s and passed through various hands until it was bought by Marshal Joachim Murat in 1804 who expanded it then gave it to Napoleon’s sister Pauline in 1808. In 1819, the Duke of Orléans acquired the château and its extensive parklands for his summer residence. It remained a centre of Orléanism for the next three decades until it burned down in 1848 and its estate auctioned off. Part of it survives today as a convent.

Neuilly, the new Orléans family suburban residence, in 1836

Further afield Mademoiselle purchased a château of her own far to the south in rural Auvergne, Randan, which she rebuilt as a neo-gothic fantasy. This castle had been built by local lords in the thirteenth century who took the name ‘Château-Randan’, then passed to the Viscounts of Polignac, another Auvergnat family in the sixteenth century who rebuilt it in a Renaissance style. It passed to the La Rochefoucauld and Bauffremont families, under whom Randan was erected into a curious dukedom for mother and daughter (for whom there will be a future blog post), before it passed through several other ducal families: Foix-Candale, Caumont, Durfort and Choiseul. An heir to the later sold it to Mademoiselle in 1821. The Orléans family held on to the property until the 1920s when a terrible fire destroyed most of the building. An heiress took it to the Huarte family from Spain until the regional government purchased the ruins in 1999.

the ruins of Randan in the Auvergne (photo Domain Randan)

Meanwhile, the Duke of Orléans’ personal fortune had continued to grow. Already one of the richest men in France, he inherited the vast estates of his mother in 1821. Then in 1829, the last Prince of Condé made a will naming Orléans’ fifth son Henri his universal heir, bringing an even larger fortune into the collective arms of the House of Bourbon-Orléans. This included in particular the spectacular domain of Chantilly, north of Paris. An ancient lordship of the Montmorency family, Chantilly had been turned into a princely seat by the princes of Condé in the eighteenth century, famous notably for its stables built on a royal scale. Henri d’Orléans, created Duke of Aumale by his father, rebuilt the château entirely in the 1870s in a deliberately historicist style. When he died in 1897, Aumale donated the château and its estates to the Institut de France, which still owns it today. It maintains some of the finest elements of the Condé-Orléans art collections and a great library—a treasure-trove to historians of Bourbon history.

Chantilly, the Bourbon-Condé seat until 1830, then passing to the Bourbon-Orléans (photo by ignis)

In Paris, the Palais-Royal continued to buzz as a centre of Orléanism. It was the setting for a huge party in May 1830, just as a political crisis was brewing that would bring down the senior branch of the Bourbons just over a month later. Orléans made headlines by celebrating in style the visit of his brother-in-law, the King of the Two Sicilies. There were 3,000 guests, but there were also crowds shouting against the King’s new ultra-royalist ministry. When political events spiralled out of control for Charles X in July, the King attempted to preserve the throne by appointing the Duke of Orléans—his cousin and old friend from their far-off youth at Versailles, but by now on far ends of the political spectrum—as Lieutenant-General of the Kingdom, and hopefully as regent for his grandson, the Duke of Bordeaux. Louis-Philippe hesitated between accepting these proposals, or suggestions that he accept the French crown himself. His family was divided: his sister Adélaïde urged him to take the throne, against the views of his more conservative wife Marie-Amélie. Orléans himself was at the Château of Le Raincy, while the two women were both at Neuilly—so when the delegation from the provisional government came there, Adélaïde accepted the crown on her brother’s behalf.

Adélaïde d’Orléans, ‘Mademoiselle’ (1838)

Back in Paris, Louis-Philippe was unsure what to do following this ‘July Revolution’. He was very popular, as a moderate option between ultra-royalism, militant Bonapartism or radical republicanism. On 8 August the Chamber of Peers invited him not to be regent, but king, and he accepted. He chose the regnal name Louis-Philippe I, and adopted the title ‘King of the French’ (not ‘of France’) indicating that his throne came from popular sovereignty, not divine will or ancient conquest. He was officially proclaimed king by the French legislature at the Palais Bourbon on 9 August 1830. He was escorted during the ceremony by two of his sons, the dukes of Chartres and Nemours. A few days later, Chartres was re-branded as Duke of Orléans and ‘Prince Royal’—not Dauphin, another sign of the new approach for this ‘July Monarchy’.

Louis-Philippe leaves the Palais Royal in July 1830 to accept the crown

**

The rest of the story of King Louis-Philippe is the history of the French monarchy rather than the dukes of Orléans—though it should be noted that several more conservative foreign royal families continued to refer to him as the Duke of Orléans, seeing him as no more than a usurper—so we should move on to his son and anticipated successor.

the large family of King Louis-Philippe and Queen Marie-Amélie

Prince Ferdinand-Philippe, born in Palermo in 1810, had been named for his grandfathers, King Ferdinand of Naples and Philippe d’Orléans. During the Restoration he had been educated in Paris and steered towards a military career. Once he became Duke of Orléans in 1830, Ferdinand swiftly became a quite popular prince, helping to put down a revolt of silk workers in Lyon without violence and visiting cholera patients in Paris. He earned military glory through his service in military ventures in Belgium (1831-32) and in three campaigns in the French conquest of Algeria (1835-36, 1839 and 1840). He was seen as a great hope for the future of Orléanism in France and therefore needed to marry and produce an heir. In 1836, Ferdinand went on tour to the capitals of Europe—Brussels, Berlin, Vienna—but did not find a suitable Catholic bride. The search was widened to include Protestant princesses with links to the ruling houses of Denmark or Prussia. Here the Duke of Orléans finally found his match, Helene of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, a niece of the King of Prussia. They were married in May 1837, in a civil ceremony at Fontainebleau since the Archbishop of Paris refused to preside over a wedding to a Protestant in Notre Dame Cathedral. They soon had two sons, Philippe and Robert, and set themselves up in the Tuileries Palace, where the prince established a large collection of medieval art and East Asian porcelains.

Ferdinand-Philippe, Duke of Orléans, Prince Royale, by Ingres (1842)

Just as things were looking rosy for the next generation of the House of Orléans, in July 1842, the Duke was injured in a carriage accident on the road to Neuilly and died several hours later. All of France went into mourning, and eventually several grand memorial statues were erected to his memory. Perhaps the most touching is the memorial on his tomb at the Saint-Louis Chapel at Dreux, finished only when his widow died in 1858; as a Protestant, Hélène could not be interred within the chapel, so her sarcophagus sits just outside, and her outstretched arm reaches through the wall for the hand of her beloved.

Ferdinand and Hélène buried side by side at Dreux (photo by Patrick)

There was already hope for the next generation, however. After 1842, the Duke of Orléans’ son, Philippe, became the ‘Prince Royal’, as heir to his grandfather. He was given the courtesy title ‘Count of Paris’, a deliberate re-assertion of the ancientness of the dynasty, one of the very first titles used by Hugh Capet before his rise to the French throne in 987. His younger brother, Robert, was given the title Duke of Chartres. There were also numerous other dynastic titles regularly seen in the House of Orléans, now in use for the King’s numerous sons and grandsons (Nemours, Joinville, Aumale, Montpensier, Penthièvre), and new ones added from the succession of the Prince of Condé (Guise, Alençon or Condé itself). Louis, Duke of Nemours would become head of the family after their father’s death in 1850 (since his nephews were children), while Henri, Duke of Aumale later became its intellectual head, as a historian and political writer. Antoine, Duke of Montpensier married a Spanish infanta and established a separate branch that meddled in internal affairs in Spain, and remains a part of the extended Spanish royal family today.

The Orléans monarchy fell in 1848. There would be no more formal dukes of Orléans, but the title was used again, as a ‘courtesy’ by later members of the family.

The previous Duke of Orléans’ son, Philippe, Count of Paris, died in 1894, he was succeeded as head of the royal family in exile by his son, Philippe, who took the title ‘Philip VIII’. Born in Twickenham in 1860, he returned to France with his family in 1871 at the fall of the Second Empire, but was exiled again by the Third Republic in 1886. In 1880, his father gave him the title ‘Duke of Orléans’, and sent him to complete his education at Sandhurst—he then served as a staff officer to Lord Roberts, Commander-in-Chief of the British Army in India. In 1890 he came of age, and demanded he be allowed to fulfil his required military service like any young Frenchman. Instead, French officials arrested him and imprisoned him in the Conciergerie in Paris. But here he was well housed and well fed; he received high-ranking visitors and even carried on an affair with a Parisian dancer. He was soon pardoned and evicted from France, mocked by the French press for being such a pampered prisoner.

Philippe, Duke of Orléans, Orleanist Pretender to the French throne, 1910

While the family had resided in Paris in the 1870s, they lived at the Hôtel de Galliera in the fashionable faubourg Saint-Germain. This enormous hôtel particulier was built for the princes of Monaco in the 1720s and called the Hôtel de Matignon (the princes’ former surname before they adopted Grimaldi). Confiscated during the Revolution it was later given the Crown to the Orléans family, who eventually sold it to the Duke of Galliera (like the Grimaldi, from a family of Genoese bankers), whose widow then generously opened it up for the Count of Paris and his family (since they no longer owned the Palais-Royal). After her death it became the Embassy of Austria-Hungary, then was acquired by the French government for use as a residence of the head of government. Renamed Hôtel de Matignon, it still houses the Prime Minister of France.

Hôtel de Galliera, or de Matignon, today’s home of the Prime Minister of France

In 1886, when the news came that the Orléans family had to leave France, they were spending the summer at their preferred country residence, the Château of Eu. Like Chantilly and Amboise, Eu is one of the finest remainders of the glories of France’s country houses. It was built in the 1570s by the Duke of Guise on the site of an ancient fortress—watching over this area of the Norman coast since the tenth century. The Guise family passed it in 1661 to La Grande Mademoiselle (Gaston d’Orléans’ daughter, seen above), who was forced by Louis XIV to give it to his illegitimate son, the Duke of Maine. From Maine’s heirs it passed to the Duke of Penthièvre and thus back into the House of Orléans, along with its vast forests—a significant source of revenue for the family. It was the favoured country retreat of Louis-Philippe during the July Monarchy, and was where he received Queen Victoria and her family in a famous meeting of the monarchs that established an entente cordiale in 1845. From 1905 to 1940, it was the residence of one branch of the Orléans family who were also (by marriage) the claimants to the imperial throne of Brazil (Orléans-Bragance). Sold by their heirs in 1964 to the town of Eu, the château now houses a very grand Musée Louis-Philippe. Interestingly, some of the estate is still owned by the last Duke of Orléans (below) and his cousin.

the chateau of Eu (photo by Marc Ryckaert)
Eu, the arms of the Bourbon-Orléans and Braganzas of Brazil, with a royal and an imperial crown

Over the next two decades, the exiled Duke of Orléans became an explorer, notably in the Arctic, discovering new parts of northeast Greenland (‘Duke of Orléans Land’ and nearby ‘Cape Philippe’). Boatloads of stuffed wildlife were brought back to England and to his new residence in Worcestershire, Wood Norton. He was elected to the Royal Geographic Society in 1893. Just before the First World War, however, he moved to Belgium, to a residence dubbed the ‘Manoir d’Anjou’ at Putdaël, near Brussels. Huge dioramas of natural scenes had been created at his museum in Wood Norton, which eventually were donated to the National History Museum in Paris (the ‘Gallerie du duc d’Orléans’—built in 1928, torn down in 1959). Politically he had tried to keep Orléanism alive, but distanced himself from the far right wing monarchist party, Action française. The Duke of Orléans died in 1926 in the Orléans Palace in Palermo, Sicily. In 1896, he had married Archduchess Maria Dorothea of Austria, but they soon separated and had no children.

The headship of the House of Orléans passed to a cousin, whose son ultimately took over as Henri, Count of Paris. His second son Prince François was killed in Algeria in 1960 and was posthumously given the title of Duke of Orléans. A few years later, in 1969, the title was revived for the fourth son, Prince Jacques. Born in 1941 in Rabat in the French Protectorate of Morrocco, Jacques was the younger of a pair of twins. Michel, the older brother, was moved to a lower position in the order of succession by their father when he married a woman of unequal rank. Jacques married the daughter of a French duke, Gersende de Sabran-Pontevès, which was deemed appropriate—and the reversal of their birth order was confirmed by later heads of the family. It was said that the ducal title of Orléans was given as a snub to his twin (titled merely Count of Evreux), and in consequence, Jacques’ sons would be given higher ranking titles: Duke of Chartres (b. 1972) and Duke of Aumale (b. 1974). Prince Jacques also has a daughter who married the second son of the Duke of Mouchy (a Noailles).

Jacques, Duke of Orléans

In the 1990s, the Duke of Orléans led his siblings in a revolt against their father, in an attempt to block his sales of some of the family properties (and to raid the private fortune of his wife, their mother). Orléans would publish a tell-all book about it in 1999. At the time, the family still owned property worth about 15 million euros, including art and jewels, the Château of Amboise, and the domain of Dreux with the family necropolis. Other items had been sold long before, notably the Manoir d’Anjou in Belgium and the Palais d’Orléans in Sicily in the 1940s.

The current Duke of Orléans’ children are considered by Orléanist monarchists to hold the rank of ‘first prince of the blood’. Somewhat confusingly, those who support the Legitimists in case of a restoration of the French throne (the House of Anjou in Spain) consider instead that the head of this branch of the family, Prince Jean, is not the Count of Paris, but in fact the 13th Duke of Orléans, by right of primogeniture established by Louis XIV for his brother Philippe all the way back in 1661.

a modern representation of the power of the dukes of Orléans in the city of Orléans

The Dukes of Orléans: A ‘Spare’ Title for France’s Second Sons (Part I)

France and England share a tradition of using a select group of ducal titles for their second sons—most often York for England and Orléans for France. But not always, since, in both cases, if the holder of the second son title had his own son it carried on into the next generation, so the Crown would turn to another title for the second son, like Gloucester in England or Anjou in France.

the traditional coat of arms of the second son of the kings of France

The most famous dukes of Orléans are those younger brothers of Louis XIII and Louis XIV, Gaston and Philippe, the latter of which founded a dynasty that continues to the present day (the House of Bourbon-Orléans). But the title stretches back much further into the history of the French monarchy as a dukedom, and even further, to the very foundations of the monarchy, as a county and a kingdom.

The Orléannais is one of the richest, most agriculturally productive regions of France, conveniently watered by the broad river Loire which also served as an efficient means to transport grains and grapes from France’s interior to its Atlantic ports. So it was a natural spot to base the centre of one of the early Frankish kingdoms under the Merovingians and Carolingians, and eventually became the prized possession and power base of the family that eventually unseated the Carolingians: the Capetians.

the Orléanais and the great bend of the Loire, with Paris at the top of the map

The city of Orléans itself is ancient, built at a good crossing spot on the Loire, so it developed into a trading centre for the people of Gaul, Cenabum, as far back as the second century BC. It was destroyed by Julius Caesar in 52 BC, then rebuilt several centuries later by the Emperor Aurelian (d. 275 AD), who renamed it after himself: Civitas Aurelianorum. By the Middle Ages it had become one of the three richest cities in France. Several important battles were fought here across the centuries, at this strategic crossing of the river: from Atilla the Hun versus the Franks and Visigoths in 451, to Joan of Arc versus the English a thousand years later in 1429.

a postcard of the crossing of the Loire at Orléans from the 1890s

The Merovingians and Carolingians divided and re-divided their Frankish kingdom into sub-kingdoms, including one based in Orléans, from the 510s until the reign of Charlemagne. Probably the most famous of these was Guntram, king of Orléans from 561-592, who ruled a fourth of the Kingdom, including much of the east (Burgundy). Two centuries later, Charlemagne reunited all of the various pieces of the Frankish realms, and granted the region of Orléans as a county to loyal Frankish generals. One of these, Odo (d. 834), was related to the royal family, and was a key support in their fight against the Viking invasions from the North Sea. Odo’s son Guillaume succeeded him as Count of Orléans, and his daughter Ermentrude became a queen, as wife of Charles the Bald, who later accused William of treason and executed him (866).

Queen Ermentrude d’Orléans–a 13th-century sculpture

The County of Orléans was given to another Frankish lord, called Robert, founder of the Robertians who gathered a significant land power base in Orléans, Anjou, and Touraine (the old ‘March of Neustria’, a block of territory that protected the Frankish heartlands from Vikings and Gascons), and importantly the County of Paris and the area around it, which became known as the Duchy of France, or the Ile de France. This power allowed them to take the throne of France several times, and then more permanently under Robert’s descendant Hugh Capet, who had himself crowned in the Cathedral of Orléans in 987. Orléans remained the preferred seat of the Capetian monarchy well into the eleventh century.

But where did they reside? There’s little evidence of a royal palace in Orléans, but it was likely located on the riverbanks, next to what became known as the Châtelet—as in Paris, the name given to the seat of justice and its prison. Vestiges of the Châtelet of Orléans remain today. Like many cities in the Middle Ages, effective local power was exercised by the local bishop, who had a palace next to the Cathedral, while the counts and later dukes resided in the countryside in increasingly magnificent castles, for example Beaugency (see below). One significant early building in the city is the ‘King’s House’ (built in the early fifteenth century); constructed on the northeast edge of the old walled city, it was the administrative centre of the Orléannais, a law court, and housed princes or cardinals when they passed through the city. Rebuilt in the early sixteenth century as the Hôtel Brachet, then renamed the Hôtel de la Vieille Intendance in the eighteenth century, it has housed the tribunal court for Orléans since 1989.

the Vieille Intendance, Orléans

Orléans and Paris became the two most important parts of the royal domain in the period when most of France was dominated by its feudal magnates. The first time the County of Orléans was given to a second son was in 1250, for Prince Philippe, son of King Louis IX. This was the era when French kings were creating the system of ‘apanage’: the lands and revenues could be enjoyed by a junior prince with a great deal of autonomy, but they remained ultimately part of the royal domain and would return to the pot if the apanagiste had no legitimate heir (they hadn’t yet learned that these should be males only titles, but they soon would, once Artois was lost through female inheritance…). Young Philippe (about fifteen) retained this title when his older brother Louis died in 1260 (there not yet being a tradition to name the heir ‘dauphin’), and went with his father on crusade to North Africa in 1270. The King died in Tunis, so Orléans became King Philip III (‘the Hardy’).

In 1344, Orléans was made a duchy-peerage and given to another Philippe, second son of King Philip VI, when he was about eight years old. He was also Count of Valois, another important part of the royal domain to the north of Paris, and Count of Touraine, immediately downriver from Orléans, which was also raised into a duchy-peerage. His father also married him (still age eight) to his cousin Princess Blanche of France, daughter of Charles IV. After Philip VI died in 1350, Philippe d’Orléans became an important supporter for his older brother, King John II. He fought alongside him at the Battle of Poitiers in 1356 (where John was taken prisoner), then was exchanged as a hostage of the peace forged by the Treaty of Bretigny, 1360—and remained in England until 1365.

the wax seal of Prince Philippe, the 1st Duke of Orléans (1353), already using the coat-of-arms used by the dukes of Orléans for centuries to come

One of Duke Philippe’s residences in his apanage was the Château de Beaugency, a few miles downriver from the city of Orléans. This was a stronghold built by the lords of Beaugency in the eleventh century, later acquired by the Crown in 1292, and given to Philippe in 1344. It is still one of the most impressive medieval castles in the Loire Valley, though much of what we see today was built slightly later by the Count of Dunois (below). His descendants, the Orléans-Longueville family, also made new additions, in the Renaissance style, in the 1520s, and it was held by subsequent dukes of Orléans until the French Revolution.

the cheateu of Beaugency, with its medieval tower, Renaissance residence and the abbey church (chateau-beaugency.com)

The 1st Duke had also acquired, at the start of King John’s reign, a grand residence in Paris from his brother, so he could also live like a prince in the Kingdom’s chief city. This was the Hôtel de Navarre, on the rue St-André des Arts (in the area between what’s now the Metro stops of St-Michel and Odéon). This princely residence had been built in the 1260s on the Left Bank (most other princes, notably the Duke of Burgundy, lived closer to the Louvre, on the Right Bank) by Thibaut, King of Navarre (held at that time by the French family of Blois-Champagne). When his descendant King Charles of Navarre clashed with King John of France, his estates, including the Hôtel de Navarre, were confiscated. This site would be the main Parisian residence for the dukes of Orléans until the era of Louis II in the 1480s, then was sold to various other proprietors until it was divided into two lots in the 1640s (and became the hôtels de Châteauvieux and Vieuville, entirely rebuilt in the eighteenth century).

the sign that marks the spot of the Hôtel de Navarre in the 6th Arrondissement in Paris

The first Duke of Orléans died in 1375, at only 39 years old, leaving no legitimate children from his wife Blanche, though there were several illegitimate sons, including Louis d’Orléans, who became Bishop of Poitiers and Bishop of Beauvais, and died in 1397 on a trip to the Holy Land.

So the Duchy-Peerage of Orléans was re-created in 1392 for the first Duke’s great-nephew, Louis, the younger brother of King Charles VI. He had already been given lands from the royal domain, the Duchy of Touraine, in 1386, which he now exchanged for Orléans as well as the County of Valois (which was later raised to a duchy as well, 1406). Louis continued to acquire even more feudal estates, like the County of Château-Thierry and other lands in Champagne (the only other region of France equal to the Orléannais in the richness of its agriculture), the counties of Blois and Dunois (to add to his block of Orléans and Touraine), and the counties of Angoulême and Périgord, stretching his influence down towards the southwest of France—and spaces contested by the King of England.

Louis, Duke of Orléans, receives a book from Christine de Pizan (c1410)

In 1389, Louis married Valentina Visconti, the daughter of the Duke of Milan. She brought with her as a dowry the County of Asti, a small territory but strategically wedged between Piedmont, Lombardy and Genoa. She also ultimately became heiress to the Duchy of Milan itself—a factor that affected the histories of both France and Italy for a century—but not until the 1440s, well after her death.

Valentina Visconti, with the coat-of-arms of both Orléans and Visconti-Milan (1398)

Louis and Valentina became known as organisers of grand fêtes. In Paris they lived at the Hôtel de Navarre (or Hôtel d’Orléans), noted above. He was also given a smaller residence, the Hôtel du Petit-Musc, purchased for him by his brother in 1378, just inside the Paris city walls near the Porte Saint-Antoine (today’s Place de la Bastille). This building named for the street or district ‘Petit-Musc’ could refer to a small hidden street, or it may have been ‘pute et muse’, a hidden place to promenade with prostitutes. Nothing of it remains today as it was entirely rebuilt as the Hôtel de Boisy by the dukes of Roannais in the 1560s, then acquired by the Duc de Mayenne in 1605. A member of the House of Lorraine-Guise, Mayenne enlarged it into how we see it today, and it bears his name, so is part of the story of the dukes of Guise.

Outside Paris, Louis I preferred to reside not in his Duchy of Orléans, in a château like Beaugency, but his County of Valois, northeast of Paris in a region favoured by French royals for its excellent hunting grounds in the large royal forests of Compiègne and Villers-Cotterêts. The Duke rebuilt an ancient castle here, Pierrefonds, built by local nobles and acquired by the royal domain in the late twelfth century. Duke Louis rebuilt it completely in the 1390s, a massive structure with seven grand towers. Pierrefonds was later given to various nobles in the sixteenth century, then was dismantled on orders of Louis XIII in 1617—its ruins became a fashionable Romantic tourist spot in the nineteenth century, then the castle was almost entirely rebuilt on the orders of Napoleon III in the 1860s (in what is known as ‘Troubadour Style’, a sort of Romanticised vision of Medieval architecture), which is how we see it today.

a drawing of the chateau of Pierrefonds before its reconstruction (1858)

Not far away was the Château of La Ferté-Milon, also a much older castle, acquired by the Crown for the County of Valois in the 1290s, and now added in the 1390s to the Orléans apanage. Louis also planned to rebuild this into a more elaborate residence, but it was still incomplete at the time of his death, and his successors took little interest in it. La Ferté-Milon was dismantled in 1594 on the orders of Henry IV, and remains a ruin.

the ruins of La Ferté-Milon today (photo Matteo Bombardieri)
a sculpted Coronation of the Virgin at La Ferté-Milon, with a clear example of the Orléans arms (photo Patrick Clenet)

The Duke of Orléans was thus a very powerful magnate, with bases in the Loire valley, the Valois and in Paris, and able to step in when his brother needed him in 1392 when he was attacked by debilitating mental illness. The royal brothers’ uncle, Philippe, Duke of Burgundy, had been Regent of France while Charles VI was a child (1380-88), and he now re-asserted his power, pushing out the Duke of Orléans from any attempt to be regent for his unwell older brother. This starts a long and bloody feud between the houses of Burgundy and Orléans that continued for the next two generations. As part of this rivalry, in 1402, Orléans made yet another acquisition, the Duchy of Luxembourg, to spite uncle Burgundy’s desire to unite the northern and southern halves of his domain (but also perhaps to connect to his domains in Valois, on the road from Paris to Luxembourg). Philippe of Burgundy died in 1404, and was succeeded by his son Jean who continued to wield his father’s control over the King and his council. In frustration, the Queen, Isabeau of Bavaria, made an alliance with the Duke of Orléans and the Duke of Berry (another of the King’s uncles), December 1405, and by 1407 managed to push Burgundy and his supporters out of government and out of Paris. In response, Duke Jean got his men to assassinate the Duke of Orléans in the street near the Hôtel de St-Pol (the favoured royal residence, on the eastern edges of the city of Paris), in November 1407.

the assassination of Louis, Duke of Orléans

This murder provoked a civil war in France, Burgundians versus Armagnacs, so called for the new Duke of Orléans’s father-in-law, mentor and war commander, Bernard VII, Count of Armagnac. The new Duke, only 13, was named Charles. His marriage to Bonne d’Armagnac in 1410, at age 16, was in fact his second marriage, having married at first when he was 12 Isabelle of France, daughter of Charles VI (herself already the widow of King Richard II of England), in 1406. She died in childbirth in 1409, only 19 years old. The 2nd Duke of Orléans (of the second creation) made a bold debut on the battlefield at Agincourt in 1415, where miraculously he was not killed or maimed, but was captured and taken to England—where he remained for the next 24 years.

The Duke of Orléans, as hostage of the King of England, moved around a lot: the Tower of London, Bolingbroke Castle, Pontefract and others. Henry V refused to allow him to be ransomed, but the French prince was relatively free in his daily life, and spent this time becoming a poet—in fact, he is regarded as one of the leading poets of this period, in both French and English. Over five hundred of his poems survive, some of which were set to music in the late nineteenth century during a revival of all things medieval—notably the ‘Trois Chansons de Charles d’Orléans’, premiered by Debussy in 1909.

Orléans was finally freed in 1440 thanks to the intervention of the Duke of Burgundy (and lots of ransom money). In return, he had to promise to stop the vendetta seeking vengeance for his father’s murder. He solidified this new bond with a third marriage, now to Burgundy’s niece, Marie de Clèves, daughter of Adolf, Duke of Cleves (and it was her dowry that secured the ransom). He settled into his château at Blois where he nurtured a court of art and music and poetry. He died in 1465.

Charles, 2nd Duke of Orléans, wearing the robes of the Order of the Golden Fleece, and with his arms quartering Orléans with Milan

The 3rd Duke of Orléans, Louis II, was born from this third marriage, so was only three when he succeeded to his elderly father’s titles. But before we look at this generation, we need to look at Duke Charles’s brothers, Vertus and Angoulême, and his half-brother, one of the most famous men of this period, Dunois.

Philippe, second son of the 1st Duke of Orléans, was known as the Count of Vertus. This county in central Champagne had in fact been given as a dowry to a French princess who married into the ducal family of Milan, then returned with Valentina of Milan as part of her dowry. Both he and his older brother Charles quartered Orléans and Visconti in their coat-of-arms. Vertus took over as head of the Armagnacs while his older brother was held hostage in England, and supported the Dauphin Charles in his campaigns to recover his claims to the Kingdom after he had been disinherited by the Treaty of Troyes (between Henry V and Charles VI) in May 1420; but he died unmarried only a few months later.

Jean, the third son, was given the County of Angoulême as his part of the Orléans succession in 1407. He was sent to England as a hostage even before the Battle of Agincourt, in 1412, in an attempt to broker a peace. He was only 13. Like his oldest brother, he stayed in England for a very long time—33 years! Also like Charles, he was bookish, and when he returned to France finally in 1444, he brought back quite a library, some of which is still at the core of the National Library of France today. His son Charles, Count of Angoulême, did not make much of a mark himself, but was the progenitor of the House of Valois-Angoulême, fully royal once his son François succeeded to the French throne in 1515. But that’s a different story. Angoulême also joined the Dauphin’s campaigns versus the English in the 1440s, notably alongside his illegitimate half-brother Dunois.

Jean, ‘Bastard of Orléans’, is famous as one of the companions and generals of Jeanne d’Arc at the siege of Orléans, 1429, after which he helped the Dauphin, now calling himself Charles VII, drive the English out of France. In thanks, his brother (still in England) gave him the County of Dunois (west of Orléans, centred on the town and castle of Châteaudun, or ‘Château Dun’). The King augmented this with the County of Longueville in Normandy, by which title his descendants (who continued to use the surname ‘d’Orléans’) are known—they were raised to the rank of dukes in 1505, so will have a post of their own. Their coat-of-arms is a fascinating example of the intersection of cadency and bastardy: Dunois bore a three-point silver label of the House of Orléans ‘bruised’ by a silver bend sinister denoting bastardy. This bend was then reversed to become a bend dexter once the Orléans-Longueville family obtained legitimation as princes of the blood by the King of France in the sixteenth century—though their exact status as princes of the blood remained contested, much to their chagrin.

Jean, ‘bastard of Orléans’, Count of Dunois

Inheriting the Orléans apanage at such a young age, Louis, 3rd Duke of Orléans was raised under the watchful eye of his mother, Marie de Clèves, and through her, the Duke of Burgundy. This new alliance—a complete reversal of family politics at the start of the century—worried the new King of France, Louis XI, who is remembered as one of the most politically manipulative kings in French history. As such, in a juicy anecdote that is often told, worthy of ‘Game of Thrones’, the King is said to have forced his young cousin Orléans in 1476 (when he was 14) to accept the honour of marriage to a royal princess, his own daughter Jeanne, despite knowing that she suffered from disfigurement that would prevent her from having children. A perfect way to kill off a rival dynasty. Specialists of the era now cast doubts on this story, pointing out that it was circulated during Orléans’ later proceedings to get this marriage annulled for political reasons, and that the ‘evidence’ he presented to the ecclesiastical courts also included accusations of witchcraft, so the story may have simply been part of the campaign concocted to blacken the reputation of Jeanne and her father. The marriage was indeed annulled, but in the long run, Jeanne won a rather large victory (in terms of the celestial and the eternal) as she was canonised as a saint in 1950.

Jeanne de France, Duchess of Orléans, later canonised

As he matured, Louis of Orléans became known as a reformer, displayed at the Estates General of 1484, held in the city of Tours, where he supported demands for an end to corrupt taxation practices and to foreign influence in the French church and military. He also put himself forward as the best man to lead the Kingdom as regent, since Louis XI had died and his son Charles VIII was only 13 and temporarily being governed by his older sister, Anne, Dame de Beaujeu. The Estates General sided with Anne, and Louis and his reform ideas were pushed aside. The next year, Orléans joined a revolt against Anne’s regency, known as ‘the Mad War’ (la Guerre Folle), in league with the Duke of Brittany and other disgruntled grandees. He was defeated at captured at St-Aubin du Cormier, in eastern Brittany, in July 1488.

Pardoned in 1491, Orléans patched things up with his now adult cousin Charles VIII by going on campaign with him to Italy in 1494. The King was invited to the Italian peninsula by the Pope, to stake a claim on the Kingdom of Naples (to keep it out of the hands of the King of Aragon), but also by the Duke of Milan, who sought protection from his enemies in Venice and Florence—unwittingly reviving the Duke of Orléans’ claims to that Duchy himself in the name of his grandmother Valentina Visconti.

Suddenly, Charles VIII died, in April 1498. Though he and his wife, Anne of Brittany, had had several children, none of them survived, and there was no one else in line of succession, so Louis, Duke of Orléans, became Louis XII, King of France. Right away he marched back to Italy and finally took the Duchy of Milan in the Autumn of 1499. A year before, he had successfully arranged for his first marriage to Jeanne de France to be annulled, and he married the late King’s widow, Anne of Brittany, ensuring that Brittany remained a part of France. Domestically, Louis XII also put into place many of the reforms he had tried to champion at the Estates General back in 1484. The last Duke of Orléans of this line had a good reign as Louis XII, but is overshadowed in popular memory by his cousin and successor, Francis I. Lovers of Tudor history remember Louis XII as the elderly king who married Henry VIII’s sister Mary, and died shortly after from an excess of marital passion…

Louis II, Duke of Orléans, in 1498 when he has become King Louis XII, surrounded by the patron saints of France (painting by Jean Bourdichon)

One of the chief castles Louis II of Orléans had inherited in his apanage was the Château of Blois. Not in the Orléannais, it was in the county next door, and had been built in the tenth century by the powerful Counts of Blois—one of the major feudal dynasties of the Middle Ages in France. It had been given to Louis I, first Duke of Orléans, when his apanage was created in 1392, and was inhabited in the 1440s by Duke Charles, the poet-duke, who made it a court of poets and musicians. But it wasn’t until Louis II became King that he began major renovation works and created the ‘Louis XII Wing’ of the château as we see it today, in flamboyant gothic style. The more famous wing at Blois is that built by Louis XII’s successor, Francis I, in a dramatic Renaissance style (with its famous twisting staircase). It remained a royal, not ducal residence, a favoured nursery for royal children, first for Queen Claude then for Queen Catherine de Medici, until it was given again as part of the Orléans apanage to Louis XIII’s brother Gaston (see below), who built a third magnificent wing in the 1630s, and had plans to demolish the other two wings and rebuild if and when (he assumed) he became king. The birth of Louis XIV in 1638 scuppered those plans (thank goodness!), then the French Revolution interrupted other plans to demolish the château in 1788 (!), so Blois remains mostly untouched, one of the finest heritage sites in the Loire Valley.

the Louis XII Wing of the chateau of Blois (photo Christophe Finet)

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The reign of Francis I, starting in 1515, is usually seen as the turning point between the Late Medieval and Renaissance eras of French history. A few years later, in 1519, Francis and his queen, Claude (the daughter of Louis XII and Anne of Brittany), celebrated the birth of a second son, Henri, who was—as was now tradition—created Duke of Orléans. The young Duke, only 7, was sent to Spain as a hostage in 1526, along with his brother the Dauphin, in exchange for their father’s freedom following the shocking Battle of Pavia. Henri was said to be sulky and often melancholic after his return to France in 1530, hardly cheered by his marriage three years later to Catherine de Medici, a strategic marriage since she was niece of Pope Leo X (and also heiress of a significant chunk of central France) but not someone of rank deemed sufficient to marry a royal prince of the House of Valois. This discrepancy in rank became even more awkward in 1536, when the Dauphin François died, and Henri became the new Dauphin. The Orléans apanage was transferred to the next brother, Charles, three years younger.

King Francis I at council, with his three sons, the Dauphin François, Henri, Duke of Orléans, and Charles, Duke of Angoulême

Prince Charles had first been called Duke of Angoulême, inheriting this apanage on the death of his grandmother, Louise de Savoie, in 1531. After he became Duke of Orléans in 1536, his father continued to build up his estates, granting him the counties of La Marche and Clermont in 1540, as well as the Duchy of Châtellerault (in Poitou, a less prestigious title, but it came with a peerage, which gave Charles a seat in the Parlement of Paris). He was very much his father’s favoured son, and a court favourite, some say because of his more sunny disposition, having not suffered the three years of imprisonment in Spain as the Dauphin Henri did. The court even divided into rival factions in the early 1540s, presided over by the King’s mistress, the Duchesse d’Etampes (with Orléans) and the Dauphin’s mistress, Diane de Poitiers. This was exacerbated when the Duke of Orléans was successful in his early military career in 1542 while the Dauphin was not, and even more so when the King opened negotiations in September 1544 to secure a peace treaty with Emperor Charles V by means of a marriage between Orléans and a Habsburg (further highlighting the Dauphin’s low-born wife). The Emperor even offered as a dowry the Duchy of Milan, which the Dauphin thought should be his by right of his senior descent from Valentina Visconti. The King counter-offered by giving Orléans yet another duchy, Bourbon, a rich territory in the centre of France recently confiscated from the junior branch of the royal house. Negotiations dragged out until the Emperor finally agreed in September 1545, only to discover that the Duke of Orléans had died a few days before, of plague while on campaign near Boulogne. He was only 23.

Charles, Duke of Orléans, by Corneille de Lyon (1536)

The Dauphin Henri became Henri II in 1547, and despite their rocky start, he and Catherine de Medici had numerous sons. As before, the eldest, François, was named Dauphin, while the second son, Louis, was created Duke of Orléans (1549). He died only a year later (not yet two years old), and the apanage was transferred to the third son, another Charles. After the brief reign of Francis II, Charles became king as Charles IX in 1560, so the Duchy of Orléans was given to the next brother, Henri, who later exchanged it (in 1566) for the Duchy of Anjou.

the widowed Queen Catherine de Medici with her children in 1561: Charles IX (the former Duke of Orléans), Henri, Duke of Orléans (later Duke of Anjou), Marguerite (future Queen of Navarre), and François, Duke of Alençon (workshop of François Clouet)

The Orléans estates were given to their mother, Catherine, to add to her own estates, which included the Château of Chenonceau—famous for its long gallery extending across the river Cher—in the Duchy of Touraine. She had big plans to expand this royal residence, but the Wars of Religion caused delays, until her death in 1589 brought all these properties back into control of the Crown.

The next creation of the Duchy of Orléans as a royal apanage was in 1626, for Gaston de France, younger brother of Louis XIII. There had been a brief ‘Duc d’Orléans’ as a courtesy title (not a formal investiture as an apanage) for an unnamed second son of King Henry IV (lived 1607-1611, and sometimes erroneously assumed by genealogists to be named ‘Nicolas’, from the N. (‘not named’) printed in royal genealogies of the time), so Gaston (b. 1608) had been given the title Duc d’Anjou as a baby. His apanage of Orléans was given in 1626 as part of a marriage and peace deal after brief revolt against his brother (though he was only 18, so was mostly being manipulated by powerful courtiers). This marriage was to Marie de Bourbon-Montpensier, an incredibly wealthy heiress (owning huge chunks of central France). His apanage also included the duchies of Chartres and Valois and the County of Blois.

the marriage of Gaston, Duke of Orléans, and Marie de Bourbon, Duchess of Montpensier, 1626

It was at Blois that Gaston, Duke of Orléans, focused much of his energies as a princely patron. He spent many years residing here in the 1630s-50s, as he had made himself very unwelcome at the court of Louis XIII. For years he remained, awkwardly, in the position as heir to the throne, from 1611 until his sister-in-law Queen Anne finally produced a male heir (Louis XIV) in 1638. He tried to be loyal, but continually got dragged into court intrigues and rebellion, which mostly ended badly…for his friends, since he himself could not be severely punished since he was, as ever, the heir to the throne. The Conspiracy of Chalais of 1626, the Day of Dupes of 1630, the Montmorency rebellion of 1632… Retiring to Blois from 1634, the Duke of Orléans hosted a number of artists, musicians and political exiles—men and women who had fallen foul of the King and his first minister, Cardinal Richelieu. Gaston had grand plans to expand this into a very grand royal residence, as we’ve seen above.

Blois, the Gaston Wing in the centre, and the more famous Francis I Wing on the right

Gaston also had plans to build a much grander château at Chambord, located within the Duchy of Orléans itself. Chambord was at the centre of one of the largest royal hunting parks in France (which, incidentally, it still is), a part of the Orléans apanage since the 1390s, returned to the Crown in 1498, and favoured by Francis I, who built an entirely new château here in the 1520s. It was rarely used after the 1550s, so was due for renovation when Gaston set his eyes on it in the early 1640s. Chambord was held by the royal family once more after Gaston’s death in 1660, and was given as residence to various people in the next century—notably Louis XV’s father-in-law, the exiled King Stanislas of Poland—and remained property of the Bourbons even after the Revolution, finally being sold to the nation in 1930. In Paris, Gaston lived in his mother Marie de Medici’s grand new palace, the Palais du Luxembourg, which was called at this time the Palais d’Orléans.

Though he had two wives, Gaston died without a male heir. Marie de Montpensier had died soon after giving birth to a daughter, Anne-Marie-Louise d’Orléans, Duchess of Montpensier, better known to history as ‘La Grande Mademoiselle’. She and her father had a fraught relationship—he cherished her (and her money, as sole heir of her mother), but also very much wanted a son, to whom he could pass on the Orléans apanage. His second marriage, to Marguerite de Lorraine, sister of Charles IV, Duke of Lorraine and Bar, had been blocked by his brother the King, so he was not allowed to live with her until after his brother’s death in 1643. The Duke and Duchess of Lorraine once again made their home at Blois and started a family. A son, Jean-Gaston, was born in 1650, given the title Duke of Valois, but died only two years later. So Gaston and Marguerite focused on raising their three daughters, Marguerite-Louise, Elisabeth, and Françoise. These could not inherit the throne however, so when Gaston died in February 1660, the Orléans apanage returned once more to the Crown, and was given out again in 1661, to Philippe de France, younger brother of Louis XIV. Philippe d’Orléans is the founder of the House of Orléans that persists today.

Gaston, Duke of Orléans as painted in 1634 by Anthony Van Dyck

To be continued in Part II