The MacCarthys—Irish kings to princes … to dukes?

Ireland did not have dukes and princes created by emperors or kings in the manner of other European kingdoms in the medieval and early modern ages. There were a few dukedoms (Ormond, Leinster, Abercorn), but these were all created for Anglo-Irish families who had emigrated to the Emerald Isle at some point after its conquest by the English monarchy in the twelfth century. Ireland did have its own native nobility, however, with very ancient pedigrees, who divided the island along clan lines and small kingdoms, and occasionally came together to select a high king. This blogsite has looked briefly at the histories of the O’Neill kings in Ulster and the Kavanagh kings in Leinster — now it is time to look at the Irish kings who retained a degree of their independence longer than the others: the MacCarthys, kings of Munster. But this site is about dukes and princes, not kings, so I will focus on the story that unfolds mostly after the English invasion, when the MacCarthys took slightly lower titles, as princes of Desmond, Carbery or Muskerry, and when briefly there was a dukedom created for them—by the exiled Jacobite kings in France—that of Clancarty.

the arms of Clan MacCarthy

The other detail that complicates the telling of the MacCarthy story is the system of inheritance used by the Irish until the end of the sixteenth century: tanistry. Rather than passing leadership of a clan or a kingdom always from father to eldest son as in the primogeniture-based systems prevalent in England, France or Spain, an Irish ruler had a tanist (tánaiste) as his heir apparent, usually selected by the elites of the clan. Quite often this was a king’s younger brother, with the assumption that the king’s son would then in turn be named tanist of his uncle, and then the uncle’s son after that. This system had the advantage of avoiding royal minorities, so an adult male was always in command, to best defend the clan or the kingdom, but also to ensure that power was not overly concentrated in one single patriline, but shared out amongst a few closely related lines. That said, some historians comment on how unusual it was for the MacCarthys to have such continuity of father to son kings, from the fourteenth to the sixteenth century, avoiding civil war that destroyed many other Irish ruling dynasties. In a manner similar to French kings, they created ‘apanages’ for younger sons, in this case the three main junior branches of the family: Duhallow, Carberry and Muskerry. The head over all of these was referred to as the ‘Great MacCarthy’ or MacCarthy Mór.

The MacCarthys are often reported to be the oldest native Irish lineage supported by records, not just legends. But legends there are, and these (like most Irish kings) trace back to the ‘Milesians’, the sons of Mil who sailed from Iberia to Ireland and defeated its local gods/kings and populated the island. One the descendants of these Milesians was Ailill Ollamh (or any of a number of spellings), king of the southern half of Ireland sometime in the 3rd century. He married Sadb, a daughter of the famous ‘Conn of the Hundred Battles’, High King of Ireland, and had three sons. The eldest, Éogan Mór (‘Owen the Great’) founded the royal house of the Eóganachta (sometimes called ‘Eugenians’ in older English-language histories) who became the MacCarthys, while the second, Cormac Cas was progenitor of the Dalcasians or O’Briens. These two royal houses contended for power in Munster for the next five hundred years. Munster itself, Mumhan in Irish, is thought to have evolved from (great) ána (prosperity), and over time was divided into Thomond (North Munster) for the O’Briens and Desmond (South Munster) for the MacCarthys. But there’s also Ormond (East Munster) which developed as a separate kingdom, but early on was transformed into an Anglo-Norman earldom for the Butler family (who will have a separate blog post, as dukes of Ormonde).

The Kingdom of Munster amongst the Irish kingdoms in the early middle ages

In the fifth century, one of the Eóganachta, Corc, became king of all of Munster and founded a new royal capital on top a great rock at Cashel. His grandson Aongus converted to Christianity and built a church on the same site—thus creating the fascinating blended royal-clerical complex of buildings that persist as ruins at Cashel today—and indeed many of their successors were titled both ‘king’ and ‘archbishop’. The last king of an uninterrupted line was killed in 960 and the O’Briens dominated the region for the next century. A later king, Carthaigh, re-asserted the independence of his clan and fought off Viking invaders on the south coast and O’Brien warriors to the north, before he was killed by the latter in about 1045. His son Muircadach used the usual patronymic ‘son of Carthaigh’, or mac Carthaigh, and this became the clan name. His sons, Tadhg, Cormac and Donogh, re-established an independent kingdom of South Munster (Desmond) by the Treaty of Glenmire, 1118, and ruled the kingdom in turn according to tanistry—though not without conflict: Cormac deposed Tadhg (and banished his sons), and was in turn deposed by Donagh. These early kings of South Munster were sometimes called ‘king of Cork’ or sometimes ‘king of Cashel’.

Cashel–the castle/cathedral–as we see it today

The son of Cormac MacCarthy, Diarmait, was one of the first Irish lords to submit to King Henry II of England, at Waterford in 1171; but instead of recognising his kingship, the English king granted Desmond to the FitzGerald family (also known as the Geraldines), who from then on competed with the native Irish in this region for centuries. King Diarmait thus began to push to re-settle his people further into the south and west, in Kerry. Diarmait’s son, Cormac, briefly deposed his father for having submitted, in 1176, then was killed by his father with Norman aid. Diarmait himself was then killed by another Anglo-Norman lord at peace talks in 1185. His second son, Domnall, was referred to in sources not as ‘king’ but as ‘prince’ of Desmond, but also began the tradition of using ‘MacCarthy Mór’ as his title. He had a formal inauguration ceremony at one of the clan’s many fortresses, always with hereditary clan lieutenants, O’Sullivan and O’Donoghue, in supporting roles. He defeated the English and temporarily drove them out of the southwest of Ireland in 1196, but failed to unify with the other native princely power, the O’Briens.

Ireland after the conquest, with Munster divided blue for English lords and green for native princes, including the MacCarthy in the southwest

The Anglo-Normans were soon back and the next centuries saw the reduced princes of Desmond fighting against them, against the O’Briens, against local vassal families like the O’Mahonys, and of course amongst themselves, often uncle-nephew. The first of the junior branches, Carbery (Cairbreach), split off in about 1205, with the lords of Duhallow in the next generation (and several other minor branches). The various branches intermarried a lot, but they also married quite a bit with their Anglo-Norman neighbours, especially the FitzGeralds, earls of Desmond, but also the FitzMaurices, lords of Kerry. One more junior branch was forged about this time and moved to Scotland in service of the Bruce family—their name evolved into Macartney, and they returned to Ireland during the Scottish settlement of Ulster in the seventeenth century (becoming lords of Lissanoure in Antrim). In the 1790s, George Macartney famously led one of Britain’s first embassies to Imperial China—he was created Viscount Macartney at the start of his mission (1792), then raised in rank to Earl Macartney (in the peerage of Ireland) when he finished (1794). This title was short-lived and died with him in 1806.

Earl MacCartney

The difference between the Carbery and Duhallow branches was that the former was nearly as powerful in land and followers as the overall head of the clan, and used the title prince, or ‘MacCarthy Reagh’ (or ‘Riabhach’, which means ‘grey’ or ‘swarthy’), whereas the head of the Duhallow clan remained firmly loyal to the MacCarthy Mór.

A map of Desmond (south Munster) showing the lands of Duhallow in the north, Muskerry in the centre and Carbery in the south (also shows lands of vassal clans like the O’Sullivans, O’Learys and O’Mahonys)

Donal Roe, MacCarthy Mór and Prince of Desmond, began a century of strength from about 1262. He acknowledged the English king as overlord but was able to regain MacCarthy authority over the Norman lords in Cork and Kerry. His grandson Cormac and great-grandson Donal Oge were the last real independent princes, and were brought down in part by trying to reimpose their authority on junior branches of the family, who, in resistance, allied with the Fitzgeralds. Yet another junior branch, this even more powerful than the others, was established by Donal’s brother Dermod, who in about 1353 was recognised by the English king (or his viceroy in Dublin) as Prince of Muskerry (sometimes Anglicised as Muscry), centred on the river Lee in central County Cork, named for the Múscraige people. We will return to their story below after the main line.

Donal Oge (‘the Younger’) was the last of the great princes of Desmond. His son, Tadhg ‘the Monk’ retired to a monastery in Cork, leaving his grandson Donal Oge III to attempt once more to revive the family’s power. He is the last to be called ‘king’ in the Irish sources. He rebelled against English rule in 1460 and was brought back in line through gifts and spent the rest of his reign rebuilding the family monastery at Irrelagh (today known as Muckross) and his residence at ‘the Pallis’. I’ve not found out much about Pallis Castle (or Caislean ua Cartha, ‘the Carthy Castle’) other than it was completely destroyed during the invasion of Oliver Cromwell in the 1640s. It was a short distance northwest of the town of Killarney which served as a sort of capital of the principality of Desmond (today in County Kerry). The abbey, on the other side of Killarney, is also today a ruin, having been dissolved as a religious house in the Elizabethan era. Nearby was the other seat of the MacCarthy Mór, Castle Lough, on a peninsula overlooking Lough Lein (also called MacCarthy Castle in some sources), now a ruin in Killarney Park.

Muckross Abbey
Castlelough, or MacCarthy Castle, outside Killarney

After nearly a half century of struggles both internal and external to the clan, in 1536, Donal an Druimin made peace with the Lord Deputy of Ireland, Thomas Radcliffe, and ruled peaceably as Prince of Desmond until 1558, when his son Donal, succeeded to the chieftaincy without fuss and submitted to the regime of Queen Mary—in return he was created Earl of Clancare (or Clancarty) and Baron of Valentia in 1565, and even went to England to be invested with these titles personally. Valentia refers to an island off the west coast of the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry—jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean. The English form of the name is a corruption of Bhéil inse, ‘harbour of the island’).

A 19th-century painting of the last Prince of Desmond, Donal MacCarthy, the 1st Earl of Clancare

The first Earl of Clancare was a good Elizabethan, known as a poet and courtier. He married Honora Fitzgerald, daughter of the Earl of Desmond—from the family that had been the MacCarthy rival for centuries. Then in 1569, he renounced his English titles and joined his father-in-law in a rebellion against the Crown. He was soon knocked out of the war, however, by the forces of the Lord Deputy. In about 1587, his son Tadhg died, leaving the MacCarthy Mór with no close male heir. His daughter Elena married the following year the tanist of the Prince of Carbery, Finghin MacCarthy, who assumed the headship of the dynasty after his father-in-law Donal died in 1596. Finghin (known as ‘Florence’ in English sources) took the title MacCarthy Mór, but was challenged by his wife’s illegitimate half-brother, Donal, as well as by Dermot MacDonough, Lord of Duhallow, and Cormac, Prince of Muskerry.

Donal was recognised by the O’Neill rebels in the north of Ireland in 1598 and chased the Earl of Essex out of Munster; then Finghin came to Ireland in 1599 from England where he had been living at court with his wife since the 1580s and gained Elizabeth I’s favour. The English Crown agreed to recognise Finghin as the MacCarthy Mór in exchange for him subduing his rebel cousin, Donal. To attempt to counter this, Donal submitted to George Carew, Lord President of Munster, who pleaded on his behalf to the Crown. Meanwhile, the Lord of Duhallow, Dermot MacOwen MacDonough, also claimed the headship of the Crown, so Elizabeth sent an order to recognise his cousin and rival as head of his own subclan (also in dispute—so this is a rivalry within a rivalry), and in 1600 recognised Finghin again as head of the family—Dermot became an outlaw and soon joined Spanish plotters against the English government in Ireland. The Queen suddenly grew suspicious of Finghin for negotiating a peace settlement with Clan O’Neill in 1601—which for some reason was seen as treachery—and imprisoned him in the Tower of London. Here he stayed, off and on for nearly forty years! The ceremonial rights of the head of the clan (and the chief rents from vassals) were now vested in the Crown, while Donal was granted his father’s lands in 1605—these were lost by his son during the Cromwellian invasion of Ireland, and the MacCarthy Mór estates dissipated. Desmond was finally united as one county—both the principality and the earldom.

One of the newer castles built during this struggle was Kanturk Castle, built as a fortress for the MacDonough MacCarthys of Duhallow. Their lands were in the northern parts of County Cork, taking their name from Dúiche Ealla, the land of the river Allow. Kanturk, or Ceann Toirc (‘boar’s head’) was built on this river in about 1600 to defend against the ever-increasing number of English settlers—though it grew so large that the settlers obtained an order from the English authorities to halt construction by 1620—it was never completed. This still impressive fortress today belongs to An Taisce, the National Trust for Ireland.

Kanturk Castle

Jumping back to look at the line of the princes of Carbery, we see that they too had many splits early on, and most princes died bloody deaths. The first prince, Donal Gott, was killed in 1251; his eldest, Dermod, was excluded from the succession but given lands on the southeast coast of Carbery to transmit to his descendants, who took the name Clan Dermod of Cloghane. These emigrated to France in the late seventeenth century and founded a mercantile enterprise in Bordeaux which persisted into the nineteenth century and beyond. Like several other branches we will encounter below, they were created (or at least called) ‘Count MacCarthy’ in France. The most prominent, Denis, served as director of the Chamber of Commerce of Bordeaux in 1767, then Premier Consul of the city in 1767-68.

Denis MacCarthy, wine merchant in Bordeaux
the MacCarthy House at Marbuzet, outside Bordeaux, still today a producer of fine Medoc wine

The 1st Prince of Carbery’s younger sons ruled in succession: Finghin ‘Ragh na-Roin’ defeated the Geraldines in 1261 and secured Irish independence in the region, then was killed by the De Courcys later that year at Ringrone (Ragh na-Roin—many of the Irish princes are known to history after the place of their death). His brother Cormac was killed by the Burkes a year later, leaving Donal, who took his revenge on the De Courcys in 1295. His son Donal Caomh (‘the Handsome’) was the first to use the title ‘Prince’ and established that Carbery was de facto independent of the MacCarthy Mór—taking the clan title MacCarthy Reagh. Importantly, he controlled the ports along the south coast, and his heirs soon became the richest princes in Ireland. His son Donal Glas is recognised as ‘prince’ in charters from the King of England. This prince rebuilt the Friary of Timoleague as this branch’s ecclesiastical seat—this ancient religious site, dedicated to the sixth-century Saint Molaga (Teach Molaga is ‘House of Malaga’). Secularised in the 1580s, the Friary was briefly re-opened by local Catholics, but again closed by the end of the 1620s and eventually crumbled into ruins.

Timoleague Friary

Not only did this branch of the family have its own friary, it also had its own bishop: Rosscarbery (or just Ross), on the south coast, created as a separate diocese in the twelfth century. Since 1958 the Catholic diocese has been united with that of Cork. Further east along the coast was one of the main seats of the MacCarthy Reagh, Kilbrittain Castle. Said to be the oldest still inhabited castle in Ireland, it as built in the 1030s as the seat of Clan O’Mahony; taken by the De Courcys, then by the Prince of Carbery in the early fifteenth century. After the family was dispossessed in the seventeenth century, Kilbrittain was held by the Earl of Cork (Richard Boyle) and then the Stawell family who restored it and enlarged it over two centuries. It remains privately owned.

Kilbrittain Castle

In the 1480s, another Finghin, Prince of Carbery, gained the favour of King Henry VII who commissioned him to receive the homage of the other Irish chiefs on behalf of the Crown. He went further in 1496 and surrendered his lands and sovereign rights (as ‘MacCarthy Reagh’) for regrant, which thus permitted him to adopt primogeniture for his lands, with the approval of the Geraldines—one of whom was his wife, and one his daughter-in-law (the latter in particular was daughter of the Earl of Kildare, Lord Deputy of Ireland). Yet his son Donal joined with his cousin the Prince of Muskerry and rebelled against Henry VIII in 1521, and defeated his mother’s kinsman, the Earl of Desmond. His sons, Cormac, Finghin, Donogh and Owen thus all reverted to the system of tanistry and ruled in succession as princes of Carbery.

Their descendants split: Owen’s son Finghin joined the O’Neill rebellion of the 1590s and was one of the last to submit in 1602—his issue, the MacCarthys of Timoleague moved in the 1690s to France, like so many MacCarthys, and acquired lordships near La Rochelle on the Atlantic coast. Charles-Denis MacCarthy was a Captain in the Regiment-Royal of Dragoons for the King of France, and in 1786 was recognised as ‘Vicomte MacCarthy’ and given honneurs de la cour (the right to attend court at Versailles). This line died out in the early twentieth century.

The son of Prince Donogh was Finghin MacDonough who became the next MacCarthy Mór, as above, so we’ll pick up his line again. The son of Prince Cormac, Donal na-Pipi (‘of the Pipes’—named for the pipes of wine that washed onto his shores) succeeded as MacCarthy Reagh in 1593. He renounced the princely title (again) and was created Lord Carbery by James I in 1606. He had many sons: the descendants of the eldest, Cormac, remained titular princes of Carbery. One, Donal, was High Sherriff of County Cork in 1635, the next, Cormac, was commander of the Munster clans in the rebellion of 1641. His estates were confiscated by Cromwell in 1652, and partially restored by Charles II—he had served in the Duke of York’s regiment in France during the Commonwealth era, which established a link for his sons and grandsons who fought for James II in the Glorious Revolution of 1688-89 and at the Boyne in 1690. One of the daughters, Eleanor, went into service of Queen Mary of Modena in her exile at Saint-Germain in France. A cadet branch also moved to France at this time to live freely as Catholics, and settled in Toulouse. The Toulouse MacCarthys were also created counts (1776) and given the honneurs de la cour. In the next generation, the Abbé MacCarthy was a famous preacher in France in the 1820s, while his brother served as aide-de-camp of the Prince of Condé. The head of this branch, titular prince of Carbery, emigrated to the United States in the 1840s, where they still have descendants.

Meanwhile, Finghin MacDonough MacCarthy, titular MacCarthy Mór, spent much of his ‘reign’ in the Tower of London—in and out on various suspicions and bails and fees—as did his eldest son, Tadhg. While living in London, Finghin (or Florence) compiled several annals of Irish medieval histories as Mac Carthaigh’s Book, a valuable resource held today in Ireland’s National Library.When he died in 1640, his younger son Donal succeeded to the now empty title, became a Protestant and served the Duke of Ormonde as a royalist commander in the Civil Wars; his brother Finghin meanwhile was a rebel and held County Kerry for the Irish Confederation from 1641. Of the descendants of Donal, Cormac served the Crown as a lieutenant for James II and governor of Carrickfergus Castle (outside Belfast), but his heirs remained Protestant and in Ireland (as opposed to those Catholic MacCarthys who emigrated to France). Another Cormac, or ‘Charles’, was the last to use the title ‘MacCarthy Mór’. He was a captain in the Royal Guards regiment and died in 1770. His first cousin John MacCarthy added his mother’s surname Welply to his own—her father, Joseph Welply, was a Welshman who had moved to Cork and acquired some of the confiscated lands of the MacCarthys of Muskerry from the Crown. John may have tried to claim the title MacCarthy Mór at this time. A few generations later, another John Welply MacCarthy emigrated in the 1840s to the United States.

Some of Finghin MacDonough MacCarthy’s descendants moved to France with James II after he was deposed in 1688-89. One of these, Charles, a captain in the French army, may have been a claimant to the MacCarthy Mór title, and may have left descendants in France.

But the more famous French MacCarthys came from the line of Muskerry, so we need to back up one last time and look at this branch. The princes’ main fortress was at Macroom, while the tanist was usually based at Carrignamuck. Macroom was a town on the river Sullane, a tributary of the Lee west of Cork City. It was a prosperous town due to milling, and was thus defended by a number of MacCarthy tower houses. Macroom became the capital of the Muskerry princes in the fourteenth century. Its castle, in the centre of town, had originally been built in the twelfth century; was significantly enlarged in the mid-sixteenth century, then lost to the MacCarthys in the 1690s. Only a ruined tower and a wall remains of the old castle, while an elaborate gatehouse crowns the town’s main square—though this was built in a gothic style only in the 1820s.

Macroom Castle ruins
the 19th century gates at Macroom

One of the MacCarthy tower houses was Carrignamuck, east of Macroom about halfway to Cork. Built in the 1450s, Carraig na Muc (‘rock of the pigs’) was forfeited by the MacCarthys in 1641 and a ruin by the late nineteenth century. It is in private hands today, in the grounds of the eighteenth-century Dripsey Castle. Another of these tower houses, this one to the west of Macroom, was the delightfully named Carrigaphooca, whose name ‘rock of the fairy’—and this strategic road towards Kerry is sometimes called ‘fairyland’ (more on the fairies below).

Carrignamuck tower house
Carrigaphooca–fairy castle

The 9th Prince of Muskerry, Cormac Laidhir (‘the Stout’), added even more to this string of fortifications west of Cork, including Kilcrea Castle and the most famous of them all—Blarney Castle. He also founded a Franciscan abbey at Kilcrea in 1465—so each of the three main branches of the family now had their own ecclesiastical centre.

Kilcrea Abbey

Blarney Castle, about five miles northwest of Cork, was first built in the early thirteenth century. The Prince of Muskerry significantly enlarged it in the 1440s, and added the battlements which include the famous Blarney Stone. Also known as the ‘Stone of Eloquence’ it is thought to once have been an ancient coronation stone—common across the Celtic world—or a charmed stone gifted to Clan MacCarthy by the goddess Clíodhna. One version says this ‘fairy protectress’ of the clan granted an eloquent tongue to the builder of the castle, whose words later believed to be simply empty flattery or ‘blarney’. Tourists now kiss the blarney stone to be blessed with this gift too. Like most of the MacCarthy properties, Blarney Castle was confiscated in 1641, restored in 1660, then confiscated again in the 1690s. This time it was sold (eventually) to the powerful governor of Cork, James Jeffreys, and it stayed in his family for two centuries. A new Blarney House was built nearby, which burned down in the 1820s. The estate passed to the Colthurst family by marriage in 1846, and another house was built—this remains the seat of this family of baronets.

Blarney Castle
tourists kissing the Blarney Stone in 1897

Later in his reign, the great builder Prince Cormac ‘the Stout’ allied with Henry VII in 1494 in an attempt to pacify the region, but soon after quarrelled with his brother and tanist, and was murdered. This meant the brother’s lineage was excluded, so the succession passed to Cormac’s son Cormac Oge Laidhir (‘the Younger Stout’!). He defeated the Fitzgeralds at Mourne Abbey in 1521, which eventually became part of his family’s properties when the Abbey was secularised under Henry VIII.

The 11th Prince of Muskerry, Tadhg, agreed to submit to English justice in 1542, repudiating the traditional Irish system of Brehon law. His brother was the 12th Prince, according to tanistry, and was succeeded by his sons, Sir Dermot and Sir Cormac, who both worked with the English government to suppress dissent—just as the region was heating up again with the rebellion of the Earl of Desmond. Cormac, the 14th Prince, was named Sheriff of County Cork and given the power of martial law in 1576; he formally surrendered his lands and titles in 1578, and was re-granted them by the Crown (including Mourne Abbey, and Cloghan in Carbery, confiscated from his kinsman). Despite the official ending of tanistry with the surrender and regrant, he left a will naming his brother then his nephew then his son—a clear indication the old ways were still in his mind. He died in 1583, and his brother Callaghan, who didn’t want any trouble, quickly surrendered the title to his nephew.

Cormac, 16th Prince of Muskerry, officially Baron of Blarney in the Peerage of Ireland, was, like so many others, a claimant for the title MacCarthy Mór in 1596. He perhaps hoped to improve his chances of being recognised by the English Crown by conforming to the Protestant Church of Ireland, and to be on the safe side, repeated his father’s act of surrender and regrant in 1589; then again for King James in 1614. He was also for a time Sheriff of Cork, and stayed loyal to the Crown during the siege of Kinsale, October 1601, when many of his kinsmen went into rebellion and then exile. Yet he was accused by a cousin of corresponding with Irish rebels and their Spanish supporters, and was taken into custody. He was forced to give up Blarney Castle, then Macroom—he escaped and soon came to terms with the government, 1602, and died peaceably in 1616.

Ever the most loyal branch, Cormac’s son Cormac Oge, aka Sir Charles MacCarty (as it was usually spelled in this century), was created 1st Viscount Muskerry in 1628. His son Donough, the 2nd Viscount, was then named Earl of Clancarty in 1658. He had been a leader of the Irish Confederation and commander of its Munster forces, 1641, but soon sided with Charles I and was appointed Lord President of Munster. After the execution of the King in 1649, he tried to keep the southwest loyal to the Stuarts, but by 1652 surrendered Limerick to Ireton. His last stronghold was Rosse Castle near Killarney, which was the last place to surrender to Parliamentary forces—his lands were confiscated and he was tried for treason, but he fled abroad to join the court of Charles II. He was created earl in Brussels, and after the restoration of 1660, was restored to his lands. It seems he put forward a request once again to be recognised as MacCarthy Mór, but the time of traditional Irish chieftaincies was over. He died in 1665 in London.

Charles MacCarthy, 1st Earl of Clancarty

His eldest son Charles had been killed a month before at the Battle of Lowestoft against the Dutch, and his infant grandson Charles (nominally the 2nd Earl of Clancarty) died within the year, so the 3rd Earl of Clancarty was Callaghan, who had initially become a monk while in exile in France, but now renounced his ecclesiastical position, became a Protestant to succeed to the title and to marry Elizabeth FitzGerald, daughter of the 16th Earl of Kildare, then re-converted to Catholicism on his deathbed in 1676.

It was the younger son of the 1st Earl, Justin, who became the most famous MacCarthy of the early modern era. As a boy he went into exile in France with his family, and was raised by soldiers there, coming into contact with James, Duke of York and becoming a close friend. As nephew of James Butler, the 1st Duke of Ormonde, he was well connected during the Restoration period, though he stayed in France until the late 1670s, when he returned to try to help defend the Duke of York’s cause against those who would exclude him from the royal succession due to his Catholicism. When James did become king in 1685, McCarthy (the preferred spelling for him) was named Lord Lieutenant of County Cork, 1687, and member of the Irish Privy Council. He kept Munster loyal to James during the Glorious Revolution and was named Master-General of Artillery of James’ troops in Ireland, then escaped with his regiment to France. In 1689 he was created Viscount Mountcashel and Baron Castleinch (or Castle Inchy, in County Cork); then soon after (1690 or perhaps 1693?) he weas elevated to a dukedom, either of Clancarty, or, as seen in French sources, ‘Duc de Mountcashel’, taking its name from the ancient Rock of Cashel upon which the MacCarthy dynasty was anciently founded. None of these titles were of course recognised in England, but they were in France, and he was honoured at the court of Louis XIV, who named him commander of all Irish troops in France in May 1690. His Mountcashel Brigade of about 5,000 men was sent to fight in Piedmont then in Catalonia in 1691 against the King of Spain, and finally to the Rhine in the campaign of 1693 against the Holy Roman Emperor. The Duke of Clancarty died a year later taking the waters at Barèges in the Pyrenees, and was buried there. He left his (ephemeral) ducal title to his cousin from the Carrignavar branch (below).

Justin McCarty, ‘Duke of Mountcashel’

Meanwhile, Lord Mountcashel’s nephew Donough carried on the senior line as 4th Earl of Clancarty. During his period as head of the family, he built a new mansion next to the old Blarney Castle, and also made improvements to Macroom. He married into the Spencer family, allied to the Marlboroughs and other families in favour at court, but his star began to wane when, despite being raised a Protestant, he adopted the Catholic faith of his fathers in 1689 and was taken to the Tower and his titles attainted. He escaped to France in 1694 where James II appointed him Captain of his Horse Guard. But in 1697, he abandoned the cause and returned to Ireland, only to find himself imprisoned again and his lands confiscated again. He went abroad and settled in the Low Countries and in Hamburg, and though his attainder was reversed in 1721—or at least promised—he did not return and died in Germany in 1734.

His son Robert, known as ‘Viscount Muskerry’, was, like his father, in favour with those in power in London, notably the Earl of Oxford and the Duchess of Marlborough. Yet they could not convince the Crown to return his lands (or indeed confirm the reversal of the attainder of his earldom), though he did obtain a senior naval post as Commodore-Governor of Newfoundland, 1733-34. The titular 5th Earl of Clancarty ultimately gave up trying to reclaim his lands (it was simply too complicated as they had already been redistributed to others, notably the Bentinck earls of Portland), and in 1740 he resigned his commission in the Royal Navy and joined the Jacobites in France, where Louis XV granted him a post and a pension. He settled into a château on the outskirts of the town of Boulogne (on the English Channel) and died there in 1769.

His successors are not well known. They served in France’s armies until at some point they returned to Ireland, probably in the early nineteenth century. Donough McCarthy called himself the titular ‘Earl of Clancarty’ until his death in 1871. His heirs emigrated to America.

A bit more is known about a cadet branch of the MacCarthys of Muskerry, those of Carrignavar, who stayed in France. Florence Callaghan McCarthy was adopted by his cousin Justin McCarthy, Viscount Mountcashel, in his will of 1693, so in 1694 he took the title 2nd Duke of Clancarty in the Jacobite Peerage. He died in 1715, and was succeeded by his son, Callaghan. The 3rd Duke of Clancarty was an officer in the Irish Brigade in France, and was killed fighting for Louis XV at the Battle of Fontenoy in 1745. The 4th Duke was a French naval officer, killed at sea; while the 5th Duke served in the Napoleonic campaigns in Spain. His son the 6th Duke lived until 1903. All three of these dukes were named Florence. I know very little else about them (and the ducal title does not appear on lists of French dukedoms of the nineteenth century, even those recognised though created by foreign rulers), so would love to hear from people with more information!

a contemporary drawing of an officer of the Irish Brigade

Finally we have Pol (or Paul), the 7th Duke of Clancarty (or Clancarty-Blarney). He had been a lieutenant in the army of Napoleon III as a young man in 1870s. He sometimes used the title ‘Prince of Desmond’ and stressed his rights to be seen as the head of the royal house of Munster, heir to the ancient king-bishops of Cashel. He died in his eighties in 1927 with no male heir, and any such claims died with him.

There were other MacCarthys in France in the nineteenth century. The line of Coshmaing, initially based along the river Maine (Maing) [Coshmaing = Castlemaine] with their seat at Castle Molahiffe, settled in France and by the end of the eighteenth century were highly ranked in the Life Guards of Louis XVI. The son-in-law of the last of these, Charles Guéroult, took the name MacCarthy and served in the army of the French noble émigrés during the Revolution, then joined the British army, and in 1812 was named Lieutenant-Governor of a fort taken from the French on the Senegal river. In 1814 he was transferred to the same post in the British colony of Sierra Leone, then in 1821 was named Brigadier General of the West Coast of Africa, in which capacity he helped to turn the Gold Coast into a Crown Colony (Ghana), suppressing its slave traders. General MacCarthy was killed in battle against the Ashanti in 1824.

General Charles McCarthy, Governor of Ghana

Does anyone today claim the titles MacCarthy Mór, MacCarthy Reagh or Prince of Muskerry? There were several genealogical studies published in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, but none of these was conclusive. The senior branch by the twentieth century was determined to be the MacCarthys of Kerslawny (also known as the Srugrena sept or the sept of Coraic of Dunguile, or more recently as the Trant-MacCarthys), based near Killarney. This branch broke off from the main line back in the early fifteenth century. Their position as the senior line was recognised by the Ulster King of Arms in 1906 (after the death of the last of the MacCarthy counts of Toulouse), but after Ireland became a republic things became a bit murky. In 1992, a claimed relative of the MacCarthy recognised in 1906, Terence MacCarthy, a genealogist from Belfast, claimed the title MacCarthy Mór (as ‘Tadhg V’) and presented genealogical documents later shown to be false. He was recognised by the Irish Genealogical Office, a government division that recognised clan chiefs, and he set about organising an organisation of clan groups and created an order of chivalry—and even started handing out noble titles. In 1999, The Sunday Times exposed his fraud and he withdrew the claim—the scandal led to the ending of the practice of the Irish government to get involved at all in the regulation of clan titles, in 2003.

Various family associations today state on their websites that there is no recognised head of the clan, or anyone holding the titles prince of Carbery or prince of Muskerry, and has not been since the death of the last MacCarthy Reagh claimant in 1754. One of these association websites decries the former practice of the Irish government to base its recognitions of clan chiefs based on the principals of primogeniture, when, according to older customs of Brehon law and tanistry, if there is no clan chief, the family as a whole should organise a meeting to choose one, a Derbhfine. One candidate seems to be from the line of Kilbrittain (Carbery) living in Canada. The most recent postings suggest there is a meeting happening this spring with an election expected in August 2025. Watch this space!

another view of the ruined McCarthy Castle on Lough Leane, County Kerry

Dukes of Medina Sidonia: Virtual kings of Andalusia

One of the wealthiest and most powerful aristocratic families in Spain are the dukes of Medina Sidonia. With their base in the Andalusian seaport town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, huge estates across the south of Spain, and the oldest extant dukedom in the Kingdom, they dominate much of Spanish history from the fifteenth century to the present. Their members include admirals, bishops and even a queen: Luisa, Queen-Consort of Portugal in the 1640s-50s. Founded by the powerful Andalusian dynasty of Guzmán, since the late eighteenth century, the title has been held by an offshoot of the equally historically powerful Alvarez de Toledo family, the dukes of Alba. The other major branch of the House of Guzmán, the dukes of Olivares and dukes of Medina de las Torres, was featured in a previous blog.

There were other significant junior branches of the Guzmán family, including the marquesses of Montealegre, who became dukes of Nájera by maternal succession in 1811, but held it for less than a century, before passing it through another maternal succession in 1895. That dukedom was originally created for the Manrique de Lara family, so will be covered in a blogpost about them, with a much more northern focus—this post will be about the deep south and one of the most ancient cities in Europe.

the arms of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia, with the Pillars of Hercules and the Spanish royal motto, ‘Non plus ultra’

Medina Sidonia was probably named by Phoenician settlers for their hometown of Sidon (now in Lebanon), in the ninth century BC. It was a Roman then Visigothic town before being renamed al-Madinah (‘the City’) by the Arabs who conquered southern Iberia in the eighth century AD. It was conquered by Christian forces in 1264 and its fortress given as headquarters to military orders like Santiago. Located about 50 km east of Cadiz it served as a launching post for the reconquest of the Andalusian coast and then Granada to the east.

the city of Medina Sidonia and the plains of Andalusia

Medina Sidonia is also the title of the oldest extant dukedom in Spain. It was first awarded in 1380 to Enrique de Castilla, an illegitimate half-brother of King Juan I of Castile. He died in 1404 without a successor, so the title returned to the Crown, before the estate was given to the Guzmáns in 1440, and the title re-created in 1445. The castle was rebuilt and remained in the family for centuries.

The previous blog about the Guzmán family told how they initially appeared in the mid-twelfth century much further to the north in the Province of Burgos, along the Duero River—probably of Visigothic descent—and how they claimed to have a ‘house saint’, Dominic, though he may have just been ‘from’ the town of Guzmán. Solid credentials as warriors and servants of the Castilian monarchy were earned as early as the twelfth century, when Pedro Ruiz de Guzmán was Mayordomo mayor of King Alfonso VIII of Castile, 1194, and was killed the next year at the battle of Alarcos, in one of the campaigns that began to push the borders of Castile south towards Andalusia. His two sons Nuño and Guillen fought with Alfonso VIII at the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, 1212, one of the great turning points of Spanish history. The army of the Almohad Caliph was crushed, and Muslim hold over southern Iberia began to decline.

The two sons split the inheritance and created two main lines: the elder at El Toral near León up north, and the younger with new lands acquired in the south in Andalusia—this younger branch ultimately spawned both the dukedoms of Olivares and Medina Sidonia, but there is question of whether its founder Guillen was in fact a member of this dynasty (for details, see the other blogpost). A natural son from this branch was the famous warrior Alfonso Perez ‘el Bueno’ de Guzmán, first Lord of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and first Lord of Medina Sidonia, Adelantado mayor de la Frontera—a royal official appointed to watch over the frontier with Islam. In 1301, El Bueno built a monastery outside the city of Seville (conquered by Christian forces in 1248), dedicated at the local saint, Isidore, to serve as the family pantheon. Expanded by his son Juan Alonso (whose tomb is still visible there), it was run by the Cistercians until the fifteenth century then the Jeronimites. The Monastery of San Isidoro del Campo became a centre of the short-lived reformation movement in Spain; here, in 1569, the first Spanish language bible was translated and printed. Closed as a monastery in the 1830s, today it is a museum.

Monastery of San Isidoro del Campo, outside Seville
Juan Alonso Perez de Guzman

The Guzmán family acquired the important county of Niebla in 1369, in the westernmost parts of Andalusia, abutting the border with the Kingdom of Portugal. Together, Niebla, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and Medina Sidonia formed a nearly continuous block along the Atlantic coast of southwestern Castile. These estates were relatively fertile and flat, with cattle grazing in the west and wheat, olives and grapes grown further east, and all conveniently exported to other parts of Europe through Sanlúcar at the mouth of the Guadalquivir River, which also connects inland to the two chief cities of Seville and Cordoba. On the coast, the family also acquired the incredibly lucrative monopoly of the tuna trade, and by the fifteenth century were one of the richest families in Spain. They augmented their arms as well in this period: Juan Alonso, Lord of Sanlúcar and first count of Niebla, married twice, each wife having connections to the royal family, notably his second wife, Beatriz de Castilla, natural daughter of King Enrique III of Castile, who brought Niebla to her marriage—so he added the lions and castles of the royal arms as a border around his family arms, the two caldrons of red and gold with snakes in them. A ‘caldron’ or cooking pot (caldera) is a unique feature of Spanish heraldry, going back to a tradition by which a king granted a pennant and a cooking pot to high nobles, indicating their ability to lead and feed an army.

the Guzman arms, with the caldrons and snakes, surrounded by the arms of Castile and Leon

The 2nd Count of Niebla, Enrique, also married a natural daughter of a king, this time Violante, daughter of Martin of Aragon, King of Sicily. He later served in the conquest of an important Andalusian city, Antequera, in 1410, then in 1436 led an attempt to capture the Rock of Gibraltar from the Emir of Granada—the attack was repelled with heavy casualties and the Count himself was drowned while trying to escape. His body was recovered by the Moors, decapitated and hung on the walls of Gibraltar for the next twenty-two years.

So it was perhaps in honour of this martyrdom, as much as for his own actions, that King Juan II of Castile created Enrique’s son Juan Alonso Duke of Medina Sidonia in 1445. Juan Alonso had served the King faithfully during the civil wars against the Infantes of Aragon (1437-45), notably in keeping Seville and much of the rest of Andalusia loyal. He had already been named Adelantado mayor de la Frontera of Andalusia by the previous king, Enrique III, and had even added more Andalusian territory to the patrimony by marrying Maria de la Cerda, daughter of the Count of Medinaceli, whose dowry included the lordship of Huelva, adjacent to Niebla, thus connecting that territory to the sea. But the 1st Duke and Duchess had no children. Nevertheless, the Duke’s favour with the King was so high that in 1460 he forged an unprecedented royal agreement that the dukedom could pass to one of his *many* illegitimate sons, so when he died in 1468, the titles passed smoothly to his eldest, Enrique.

Enrique de Guzmán, 2nd Duke Medina Sidonia, 4th Count of Niebla, 6th Lord of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and so on, earned his spurs as a warrior in the conquest of Malaga, for which he was awarded with yet another title: Marquess of Gibraltar (1478), for the place finally conquered by his father in 1462, redeeming the memory of his grandfather from earlier in the century. He was named Captain-General of the Frontier and Alcaide, or governor, of the Royal Alcázars (residences) of Seville. He too added an important property in Andalusia through marriage, that of Olivares. He died a few months after the successful destruction of the Emirate of Granada in 1492.

In the 1470s, the 2nd Duke rebuilt the Castle of Santiago in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (on top of an older fortress built by the founder of the house, El Bueno). This became the family’s main fortress and symbol of power for the next two centuries. Its importance was highlighted when Ferdinand and Isabella situated within its walls the ‘Casa de Contratación’, an administrative office set up to oversee the import and export of people and goods with the New World. By the nineteenth century this castle was a barracks owned by the Ministry of War, then was given to the town which let it deteriorate until 2003 when it underwent a massive renovation ad it now a key tourist attraction.

Castle of Santiago in Sanlucar de Barrameda
a panorama of Sanlucar on the great river Guadalquivir from the 1560s

Juan Alonso, 3rd Duke of Medina Sidonia, was considered to be the richest man in Spain, and a virtual king in Andalusia. He held on to the title and territory of Gibraltar until 1501, when the Crown reincorporated it into the royal domains of Castile. He was compensated a few years later with another marquisate, Cazaza, named for the newly conquered town in Morocco. Cazaza was retaken by the King of Morocco in 1530s (and destroyed) but the Guzmán family still use the title today.

The 3rd Duke died relatively young in 1507, and was succeeded by his eldest son Enrique, who was only thirteen. He married, but died only six years later, and passed his estates and titles to his half-brother Alonso, equally a teenager. Nevertheless, he too married right away, uniting his family again with the royal house by marriage to Ana de Aragón, a natural daughter of Alonso, Archbishop of Zaragoza (himself a natural son of Ferdinand the Catholic). But it soon became clear that the 5th Duke was mentally unsound and was declared ‘unfit’ — his marriage was annulled and the dukedom (and his wife) transferred to the next brother, Juan Alonso, in 1518. The 6th Duke of Medina Sidonia was then head of the family for forty years. The last of these brothers, Pedro, received as his portion the lordship of Olivares, erected into a county for him—which led to the line of the dukes of Olivares, as seen in the previous blog.

In the sixteenth century, the family moved out of the ancient fortress at Sanlúcar de Barrameda and re-fashioned an old Moorish villa into a renaissance style palace (called the Palacio de los Guzmanes). It became the principal residence of the family, with luxurious gardens and a large woodland adjacent. Today it is the seat of the Medina Sidonia House Archive, one of the best private archives in Europe, as well as some of the family’s fantastic art collections.

Palacio de los Guzmanes, Sanlucar de Barrameda
the garden courtyard of the Palacio de los Guzmanes, in typical Andalusian style

Juan Alonso, 6th Duke of Medina Sidonia, was not as famous a warrior as his predecessors, but did play a diplomatic role as Ambassador to Portugal in 1543. His son Juan Claros, known as the Count of Niebla, died before he did, leaving a grandson, Alonso, to succeed to the dukedom in 1558. This 7th Duke once again emphasised his family’s eminent position in the history of Spain—but his name has often been tied with failure and incompetence.

Alonso, 7th Duke of Medina Sidonia, became duke when he was only nine, and as a teenager was married to the daughter of the Prince and Princess of Eboli, the most powerful aristocrats at the court of King Philip II. He was appointed Captain-General of Lombardy in 1581, but still really had no command experience when he was named Captain-General of the ‘Mar Océano’ (the Atlantic) and of the ‘Armada Invencible’ in February 1588. His connections at court plus his reputation as a good Catholic seem to have been the reasons for this appointment, and he himself was unsure, writing to the King that his inexperience—and his propensity for sea-sickness—made him a poor choice for the planned invasion of England.  As it turned out the invasion of the Spanish Armada in August was a disaster, and Medina Sidonia was shamed. Popular stories grew over the centuries of him being a buffoon and a coward, hiding beneath the decks during the encounter with the English fleet. But he retained the King’s confidence, and, still in his role as Captain General of Andalusia (which became a hereditary post), he (and his son, Juan, as Admiral of Mar Océano) was in charge of defending Cadiz against the English in 1596—which failed—and then defending Gibraltar against the Dutch in 1606—which also failed.

Alonso de Guzman, 7th Duke of Medina Sidonia, Admiral of the Invincible Armada

The 7th Duke died in 1615, followed by his eldest son the 8th Duke, Juan, in 1636. The 8th Duke did achieve a bit more than his father in naval matters when he commanded the Galleys of Spain in raids against the Barbary pirates of North Africa. He also worked to maintain the personal relationship with the Spanish monarchs by hosting hunting parties for Philip IV on his estates in the marshy delta of the Guadalquivir river near Sanlúcar, the Coto de Doñana. A coto is a game preserve, and this area was named for a hunting lodge built by the 7th Duchess, Doña Ana. The Doñana remained a favourite hunting ground for royals well into the nineteenth century (as seen by a print in a newspaper from 1863 marking the visit of Empress Eugénie to the Medina Sidonia estates). The preserve was sold in 1901 to a sherry magnate, William Garvey, and since the 1960s has been developed as a national park, a UNESCO world heritage site and a biosphere reserve.

the hunting party at the Coto de Doñana, 1863

The 8th Duke’s younger brothers also made their mark: Alonso was the Premier Chaplain and Almoner to both Philip III and Philip IV, and was named Patriarch of the Indies and Archbishop of Tyre—both of these titles were titular but in reality meant Don Alonso was head of the Royal Chapel at court—while his youngest brother Juan Carlos, Count of Saltes, served on Philip IV’s Council of War and was appointed Captain-General of the Armada and Adelantado of the Canary Islands. He was also Marques of Fuentes by marriage and passed this title, as well as the office of Adelantado in the Canaries, to his son Alonso. This cadet branch went no further however, as he died in 1695 with no children.

Another Guzmán cadet branch was formed however, in the next generation, when Melchor became Marquis of Villamanrique (in La Mancha) by marriage, and his son Manuel Luis picked up the marquisate of Astorga (in León) by marriage in 1650. This line died out in the male line as well in 1710, but in this case there was a female heir, Ana Nicolasa, who took both Villamanrique and Astorga into the House of Moscoso de Osorio by marriage. Ana Nicolasa also later became heiress of her Guzmán cousin the Duke of Medina de las Torres (see previous blog post), and was also 4th Duchess of Atrisco, a title created for the Sarmiento family (and passed through two other women before her!) for a Governor of New Spain and husband of one of the heiresses of the lineage of Montezuma—but those are other stories to be told elsewhere.

Melchor’s oldest brother was Gaspar (and there was also a Balthasar, but he died young), 9th Duke of Medina Sidonia. He was the last Lord of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, due to his treasonous actions in 1641. Gaspar de Guzmán had succeeded his father as Captain-General of Andalusia and of the Mar Océano in 1636. He was a Gentleman of the Chamber of King Philip IV. But in early 1641, taking advantage of the rebellions breaking out both in Portugal and in Catalonia (and the ongoing war with France), he joined with other malcontent aristocrats in a revolt in Andalusia. Some have said this was a bid for independence, with the idea of making Medina Sidonia a king; while other historians have said it was simply to remove the Duke’s rival in power, his cousin the Count-Duke of Olivares, and install himself as Minister-Favourite—or even that there was no plot at all, but that the idea was planted in the King’s mind by Olivares himself to weaken the position of the Duke of Medina Sidonia. Whatever the truth, the King reacted by taking away the lands of the Duke, including the most lucrative estate, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, which was incorporated into the Crown, and the Duke was forced to live at or near court, closely monitored. The city of Sanlúcar itself also suffered, as the office of the Grand Captain of the Coasts of Andalusia and the Atlantic Ocean was moved to another town, and with it the vast fleets laden with treasures from the West Indies and South America. (Nota bene: two decades before another nearby town, Sanlúcar la Mayor, had been erected into a dukedom for the other Gaspar de Guzmán, the Count-Duke of Olivares—could he have engineered the removal of this lordship just out of petty rivalry?).

Gaspar de Guzman, 9th Duke of Medina Sidonia

It may also have been that a rebellion was encouraged by the Duke’s sister Luisa: in 1633 she had married João, Duke of Braganza, premier nobleman of Portugal, and in 1640 she encouraged him to assert his rights to an independent Portuguese throne. For fifteen years Queen Luisa de Gusmão reigned with her husband, now King João IV, in Lisbon, and supported the war effort against Spain. Together they built a new royal dynasty, and from 1656, Luisa acted as regent for their son, Afonso VI, who was only 13. Though legally in majority, her regency was extended due to her son’s perceived mental incapacity. She negotiated a renewal of the old alliance between Portugal and Great Britain in 1662, sealed with the marriage of her daughter, Catherine, to King Charles II. But by the end of that year, a court faction supporting her son drove her out of politics and into a monastery where she died in 1666 (and her son Alonso was driven from power only a year later by her other son, Infante Pedro). A Portuguese connection was maintained in the next generation, when one of the illegitimate sons of the 9th Duke, Domingo de Guzmán, was granted posts in the Portuguese church, and eventually rose to become Bishop of Coimbra, then Archbishop of Evora in 1678.

Luisa de Gusmão, Queen of Portugal

The 9th Duke of Medina Sidonia died in 1664, followed by his son, the 10th Duke (Gaspar Juan) in 1667. His half-brother Juan Claros thus became 11th Duke, 9th Marques of Cazaza, Count of Niebla and so on. He was a Caballerizo (Equerry) of Philip IV, married the daughter of the Duke of Medina de las Torres—the heir of Olivares, perhaps in an effort to reconcile the two Guzmán branches—and was appointed Viceroy of Catalonia in 1690, at a crucial time when this province was again in revolt and in danger of invasion by France. Trust in the family evidently restored, he was named Mayordomo mayor of King Carlos II in 1699, and was part of the maelstrom of court faction and counter-faction in the following crucial year when the King wavered in his decision to leave the Spanish Empire to a Bourbon or a Habsburg. When the Bourbon candidate, Philip V, arrived, Medina Sidonia was replaced as head of the household, though he was given the job of Caballerizo mayor, aka Master of the Horse, which was almost as equally prestigious and entailed intimacy with the monarch on a daily basis.

Philip V of Spain taking the homage of the grandees of Spain; the Duke of Medina Sidonia is at far right

The 11th Duke died in 1713 and was succeeded by his only son Manuel Alonso, then his grandson, Domingo José, in 1721. This 13th Duke was a hypochondriac and lived mostly far from court. He was succeeded in 1739 by his son, Pedro de Alcantara, who returned to court and government in various roles, notably as Caballerizo mayor of Queen Barbara (wife of Ferdinand VI), and ultimately Caballerizo mayor to the King (Carlos III) in 1768. When he died in 1779, the succession of the senior line of the Casa de Guzmán, its many estates and titles, became one of the most desired aristocratic inheritances in Europe.

Pedro de Alcantara, 14th Duke of Medina Sidonia

Headship of the Casa Medina Sidonia was successfully claimed by his cousin, José Alvarez de Toledo, grandson of the 13th Duke’s sister Juana de Guzmán and Fadrique Alvarez de Toledo, 9th Marques of Villafranza del Bierzo. Thus two of the grandest families of the Spanish aristocracy were joined together.

Jumping back several generations were see in a previous blog on the House of Alvarez de Toledo (the Dukes of Alba), that a cadet line had been established in the sixteenth century with the marquisate of Villafranca del Bierzo, in the Kingdom of León (in the far northwest, near the border with Galicia). This branch had greatly enriched itself when holding the offices of Viceroy of Naples and Sicily (father and son), gaining the estates and titles of Duke of Ferrandina and Prince of Montalbano in the Kingdom of Naples—better known as Fernandina and Montalbán in Spanish. Their seventeenth-century descendants continued as pillars of the Spanish monarchy, as governors in both southern and northern Italy (ie, Milan), generals on land and sea, and forged marriages with other similarly powerful Spanish and Italian princely clans.

the ancient town of Villafranca del Bierzo in León

In 1683, José Fadrique Alvarez de Toledo, 8th Marquis of Villafranca del Bierzo, 5th Duke of Fernandina and Prince of Montalbán, married Catalina de Moncada, heiress of the Duchy of Montalto, the Duchy of Bivona and the Principality of Paternò, all in the Kingdom of Sicily. She was also heiress of a large estate in Andalusia, the Marquisate of Los Vélez, which will ultimately add to the vast acreage of the dukes of Medina Sidonia in the south of Spain. It was their son, Fadrique Vincente, the 9th Marquis (this title, being Castilian, always seemed to take precedence over the Italian ducal and princely titles), who married Juana de Guzmán, daughter of the 12th Duke of Medina Sidonia, in 1713, as above.

And so their grandson, José, the 11th Marquis, also became the 15th Duke of Medina Sidonia, in 1779. He was also Marquis of Cazaza in Africa, Count of Niebla in western Andalusia and Marquis of Los Vélez in eastern Andalusia. He was five times over a Grandee of Spain. But wait, there’s more… (said in the voice of Bob Barker on ‘The Price is Right’): only three years before, José had married María del Pilar Teresa de Silva y Alvarez de Toledo, 13th Duchess of Alba, one of the greatest heiresses of the age. This double ducal couple—Alba and Medina Sidonia—were progressive politically, attractive and rich, and patrons of artists like Goya and Haydn.

José Alvarez de Toledo, Marquis of Villafranca, 15th Duke of Medina Sidonia and 13th Duke of Alba by marriage. His complex coat of arms displays Osorio (Villafranca), Guzman, Alvarez de Toledo and so on.

Right away they built a brand new palace—with royal proportions—on the eastern edge of the city of Madrid: the Palacio de Buenavista. A previous palace had been built here in the sixteenth century, owned by the royal family; it was lived in by the Dowager Queen Isabel  Farnese until her death in 1766, then acquired by the House of Alba. The new Duke and Duchess commissioned the finest architects of the 1770s, and filled the palace with some of the most famous artworks in Spain. Acquired by the City of Madrid in 1807, it was at one point planned to turn the Buenavista Palace into an art gallery. Instead, it was ceded to the army in 1816 and was the seat of the Ministry of War from 1847, and from 1981 the headquarters of the Spanish Army.

the Palacio de Buenavista in Madrid, 1891

If I had been the King of Spain, I would have found this union of two houses most frightening. And indeed, there was an attempt in 1795 to replace the King’s favourite, Manuel Godoy, with the 15th Duke of Medina Sidonia (known at the time as the Duke of Alba) as premier minister. But as fate would have it, the Duke died in 1798 before the couple had any children—the Alba lands and titles went elsewhere, and the Guzmán / Medina Sidonia titles passed to the Duke’s brother, Francisco de Borja. The 16th Duke had been a soldier: a brigadier in 1795 and a field marshal in 1798. During the Peninsular War he was appointed General Commander of Murcia, 1808, and joined the Cortes at Cadiz that attempted to create a constitution for Spain. At the restoration of the Bourbons, he was appointed Caballerizo mayor of the Queen, and he died, in 1821, having safely seen his family through the tumults of the revolutionary era.

Francisco, 16th Duke of Medina Sidonia

His heir, known as the Duke of Fernandina, did not survive, so the succession went to his second son, Pedro, who ceded some of the Italian titles to his younger brother, José. As 14th Duke of Bivona, José (or Giuseppe) was considered the Premier Peer of Sicily, but after 1860, Sicily was incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy, so Queen Isabel II converted Bivona into a Spanish dukedom in 1865. This cadet line continued into the twentieth century; the 18th Duke of Bivona, Tristan, died in 1926, and the title lay dormant until revived in 1956 by Tristan’s sister’s grandson, Manuel Falco, who was already 5th Duke of Arco (since 1940), and 6th Duke of Fernan Nuñez (since 1936). This line continues today.

Meanwhile, Pedro de Alcántera, 17th Duke of Medina Sidonia, solidified his ties to the Spanish royal family through a marriage in 1822 to María del Pilar de Silva, daughter of the Mayordomo mayor of King Ferdinand VII (the Marques del Viso). But the Duke did not support the succession of the King’s infant daughter, Isabel II, in 1833, and instead joined the cause of her uncle Infante Carlos. He at first moved his family to Naples, then joined the Carlist court in the later 1830s as one of the pretender’s gentlemen of the chamber, then in 1837 was sent on an important diplomatic mission to St Petersburg to try to gain the support of the Tsar for Carlos’ claims to the throne. He was warmly received (and is referred to mostly as the Marquis of Villafranca, not Duke of Medina Sidonia), but by 1839, the Tsar made it clear that he would not support Carlism, and Don Pedro returned to Spain. His estates had been confiscated, and were not returned until 1847, thanks to the efforts of his son in Spain. He was eventually reconciled with the Queen and restored to his position as a gentleman of the chamber and named a Senator of the Kingdom. His first cousin was the Empress Eugénie of France, so he was also useful to the now adult Isabel II as a host when the Spanish-born Empress made a state visit to Spain in 1863.

Pedro de Alcantara, 17th Duke of Medina Sidonia, Marquis of Villafranca

The Duke did not survive the turbulent last years of the reign of Isabel II, dying in 1867 a year before she was deposed in 1868. The 18th Duke, José Joaquín—who now used the ducal title in preference to the marquisate, perhaps trying to forget his father’s prominence in the Carlist movement—was also the last to really take up the family role in Italian politics. As the heir he had been called Duke of Fernandina and Prince of Paternò and as such sat in the Parliament of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies in the 1850s—an interesting reminder that aristocrats like these maintained dual identities as Spanish and Italian grandees well into the nineteenth century. Known as ‘Pepe Fernandina’, the Duke and his wife lived at the centre of the social life of mid-century Madrid, at their residence, the Palace of the Marquis of Villafranca, built in the 1720s in the area just south of the Royal Palace. This grand building (on Calle San Pedro) passed to relatives in the later nineteenth century, was divided up into flats in the twentieth, and today has been restored and houses the Royal Academy of Engineers.

Palace of the Marquis of Villafranca in Madrid

After the death of his father, the 18th Duke of Medina Sidonia re-asserted himself in Spanish government. In 1875, after the restoration of the monarchy, he was elected Senator for the province of Cádiz, where he was the largest landowner, but was not as active in politics as his son (the Count of Niebla), who was active in the Liberal party. In 1885, young King Alfonso XII died and his widow, Queen Maria Cristina, replaced most of the household officers for her infant son, Alfonso XIII, appointing the Duke of Medina Sidonia to the top spots as Mayordomo mayor and Caballerizo mayor (thus head of the court both inside and out), who then succeeded his uncle as ‘Jefe superior’ of the court from 1890.

José Joaquín, 18th Duke of Medina Sidonia

In all of these generations, subsidiary Spanish and Italian titles were shed, to give titles to both younger sons and daughters. And the link with Italy remained, despite the loss of independence of the kingdoms of Naples and Sicily: two of the 18th Duke’s aunts had married prominent Neapolitan aristocrats, so there were plenty of familial relations, and in 1907, the King of Italy created a new title, Prince of Montalto, for Joaquín, 19th Duke of Medina Sidonia, based on his estates in Sicily. Having succeeded his father in 1900, the 19th Duke did not share his father’s passion for the court, and spent most of his time tending his farms in Andalusia. Still suffering from huge debts accumulated in the previous century by his father and grandfather, he sold off properties, for example the Coto de Doñana near Sanlúcar de Barrameda (as above), and the Castle of Vélez Blanco, built in 1515 by the first Marquis of Los Vélez (Pedro Fajardo), and serving as the seat of the Medina Sidonia family in eastern Andalusia since the late seventeenth century. Long abandoned as a residence, its perfect Renaissance interior sparked interest of collectors, so was sold and dismantled in 1904 to a French collector. Later resold and moved to New York City, since 1945 the ‘court of honour’ is housed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The ruined castle itself was retained by the family until 2005 when it was sold to the Region of Andalusia who is restoring it for use as a museum.

Joaquín, 19th Duke of Medina Sidonia
Castle of Velez-Blanco in Andalusia
the patio of the Castle of Velez in the Met in New York

The 19th Duke died in 1915, passing everything to his son, another Joaquín, who in 1931, married the daughter of the 1st Duke of Maura, son of Antonio Maura, President of the Council of Ministers several times between 1903 and 1922 (as an interesting aside, Maura’s grand-niece is Carmen Maura, one of Spain’s most celebrated actresses, the muse of filmmaker Pedro Almodóvar). He was appointed one of Alfonso XIII’s gentlemen of the chamber, and his family’s credit with the royal family was still so strong that the King revived a long extinct title for his sister, María, the Duchy of Santa Cristina, in 1923—despite the genealogical link to the original holders being extremely distant (from the seventeenth century), and having natural heirs in Italy (where Santa Cristina is physically located, in Reggio di Calabria). The title was originally created in 1830 for the ambassador from the Two Sicilies to Spain, Fulco Giordano Ruffo di Calabria, and is still used by both his Italian cousins (the Torrigiani), and the descendants of María Alvarez de Toledo (the Márquez family).

The 20th Duke of Medina Sidonia died in 1955 and was succeeded by his only child, Luisa Isabel Alvarez de Toledo y Maura, 21st Duchess of Medina Sidonia, 16th Marquise of Villafranca del Bierzo, 24th Countess of Niebla, three times Grandee of Spain… known as ‘La Duquesa Roja’—the Red Duchess. She was born in Estoril in 1936, amidst the community of royalist exiles in that Portuguese coastal town; and it was here where she was ‘presented’ in society in 1954, alongside the Infanta Pilar, eldest granddaughter of the deposed King. A year later, she married aristocrat Leoncio González de Gregorio, and right away produced an heir and two spares: Leoncio (‘Count of Niebla’), María del Pilar, and Gabriel. Her marriage broke down soon after and they lived separately from 1958 (though they did not formally divorce until 2005).  A committed socialist her entire life, the Duchess was imprisoned by the Francoist regime in 1969 (serving eight months) for protesting against the government’s treatment of farmers following a chemical disaster. She published a novel in 1968, La huelga (‘the strike’), that critiqued ‘Caciquismo’, the political-social system where local bosses dominate towns through clientele networks. She lived in exile in France for six years until the death of General Franco in 1975. In the 1980s-90s, she concentrated on writings (more novels, a memoir about the 1960s) and on creating the Foundation of the House of Medina Sidonia (created in 1990), with its fantastic family archive. She published articles on the history of her family that challenged traditional historians’ views, some fairly controversial.

Luisa Isabel Alvarez de Toledo, 21st Duchess of Medina Sidonia in the Foundation archives

When not living at the family palace in Sanlúcar, the Duchess lived in Cantabria, on the northern coast of Spain, in the Palacio of the counts of La Mortera, which she had inherited from her Maura grandfather. This house, built in the late eighteenth century, had been enlarged by the 1st Count of La Mortera who had made a fortune in Cuba—and the Duchess received it instead of remuneration owed to the family by the Cuban government, though not without controversy, as her children later found out.

the Palace of the Counts of La Mortera in Cantabria

Then another surprise: only a few hours before her death in 2008, the 21st Duchess of Medina Sidonia married her partner since the 1980s, German-born historian Liliane Dahlmann. By Spanish law she is entitled to be called ‘Dowager Duchess’ and today runs the Medina Sidonia Foundation.

This historically minded duchess left her titles to another historian, her eldest son Leoncio González de Gregorio y Alvarez de Toledo, the current Duke of Medina Sidonia (b. 1956). He is a professor at the University of Castile-La Mancha. His sister, Maria del Pilar, initially had the title Duchess of Fernandina rehabilitated for herself by King Juan Carlos in 1993, but in 2012 this decision was reversed, and that title was returned to the Duke for use, according to tradition, by his heir, Alonso (b. 1983).

Another ducal title that re-emerged in this family in the reign of King Juan Carlos was that of Zaragoza. Alonso Cristiano Alvarez de Toledo—from a cadet line that separated in the nineteenth century, but in fact the senior male of the Casa de Alvarez de Toledo after the death of the 20th Duke of Medina Sidonia in 1955—inherited claims to the dukedom of Zaragoza from his grandmother, from the family Rebolledo de Palafox. The title had been created in 1834 for the head of the royal armies and a hero of the Peninsular War, José Rebolledo de Palafox (Palafox being an old noble family from Aragon). Born in 1896, from 1916 Alonso Cristiano was titled Marquis of San Felices de Aragón and 11th Count of Eril (inherited from the Rebolledo de Palafox family); then in 1935 he succeeded his father as 7th Marquis of Miraflores. He was a Gentleman of the Chamber of King Alfonso XIII from 1917, and a career diplomat with posts in Ireland and Switzerland. Finally, in 1975 (the year of the restoration of the monarchy), at nearly eighty years old, he was created 4th Duke of Zaragoza (though it had been claimed since 1963). He died in 1990, and passed this title to his son Manuel, 5th Duke of Zaragoza (b. 1944)—the current senior male of the House of Alvarez de Toledo, though he possesses neither the dukedom of Alba nor that or Medina Sidonia.

the Guzman and Mendoza arms at the Castle of Santiago in Sanlucar de Barrameda

Eulenburg and Bülow princes: two scandals that shook the Prussian court

The court of Kaiser Wilhelm II is remembered for its excessive militarism—the Prussian sabre rattling that encouraged the Austrian emperor to send such a strong ultimatum to the Serbs in July 1914 that made World War I inevitable—an excess that ultimately brought about the demise of both monarchies and the dukes and princes that supported them. What is less well known is that the court in Berlin in the first years of the twentieth century was also a hotbed of intrigue headed by a group of nobles close to the Kaiser whose attachments to the extremes of nationalism, even occultism, led to much of this militarism. Two members of this coterie were created princes: Philipp zu Eulenburg and Bernhard von Bülow. Both were members of ancient Junker families, but they only reached the very top of the aristocratic hierarchy at the very end of the period of aristocratic hegemony in Germany. This post will look at these two families in comparison to see how they scaled this ladder. Besides the two most prominent members, there were many others who achieved prominence as ministers or generals, and in the case of the Bülows, as musicians too. The first Prince zu Eulenburg scandalised society when whispers about his homosexuality were dragged in front of the courts and the world’s newspapers in 1906-08. The first (and only) Prince von Bülow was also accused of ‘deviancy’, but it didn’t stick—nevertheless he too was brought down, a year later following another scandal in the press, a scandal that nearly lead to war with France five years before anyone had even heard of the Archduke Franz Ferdinand. The ‘Eulenburg Affair’ and the ‘Daily Telegraph Affair’ were instrumental in the melt-down of the Kaiser’s regime, long before the First World War had begun.

Prince von Bülow, Chancellor of Germany, riding in the Tiergarten, Berlin (photo Bundesarchiv, / Gebrüder Haeckel)

But the more compelling story, from the perspective of this blog, is the continuity and sheer volume of the history of service to monarchy in both Eulenburg and Bülow families, both tracing their roots back to the earliest days of the Holy Roman Empire. And it is interesting that both made contributions to the history of classical music, in the context of the nationalist music movement of Franz Liszt and Richard Wagener.

The Eulenburg family was originally from Saxony, in a region in what was originally ruled by the margraves of Meissen and later became the Electorate of Saxony. The earliest ancestors, from the 1180s, were ministeriales (the administrative class at the bottom of the nobility) in service of the margraves. In fact, the first Meissen margraves of the previous century came from Eulenburg itself—known in the Middle Ages variably as Ileburg, Ilburg, or Yleborch, and today Eilenburg. The ancient fortified hilltop here (the ‘Burgberg’), overlooking the river Mulde, was given to this vassal family, and they took their name from it, expanded its buildings, then sold it back to the margraves by the end of the fourteenth century (and it remained a Wettin seat for centuries).

the remains of the Burgberg at Eilenberg (photo Mewes)

By this point the family had moved on, first to Lusatia, where Botho von Ileburg was governor in 1450, and then to the far northern reaches of the expanding German lands, territory conquered by the Teutonic Knights in the Baltic, soon known as the Duchy of Prussia (and later as ‘East Prussia’). Botho’s son Wend fought for the Teutonic Knights and was rewarded with an estate in 1468 at Gallingen, fairly close to one of the Order’s great fortresses, Bartenstein (today’s Bartoszyce, in Poland). The Eylenburgs or Eulenburgs turned the manor house here into a castle in 1589, expanded into a three-wing palace in 1745, and renovated again in the 1830s in a neo-gothic style. The estate at Gallingen in the nineteenth century covered a whopping 15,000 acres. In 1945, its owner, another Botho, was carried off by the Red Army, and in the settlement that drew up the new borders dividing East Prussia, it became part of Poland—its population was expelled and it was renamed Galiny. The castle has been recently restored and opened as a hotel.

Gallingen, East Prussia, today Galiny, Poland (photo Marek and Ewa Wojciechowscy)

A short distance to the northeast, two estates, Prassen and Leunenburg, were acquired by marriage in 1490. Prassen became the family’s chief seat from about 1610, where they built a new manor house (while the older castle at Leunenburg was destroyed in war with the Swedes and never restored). A curious legend is attached to Prassen Castle in the eighteenth century: a wedding was hosted here by a family of ‘Bartukken’ (the local version of gnomes); in one version, the wedding was interrupted by an Eulenburg family member and they were cursed to only ever have thirteen members alive at one time; in another, the king of the Bartukken wed an Eulenburg daughter—she vanished into thin air, but the family was promised good fortune, and soon after (1786) they were raised in rank from barons to counts. Like Gallingen, Schloss Prassen was also rebuilt in the early nineteenth century as a neogothic castle. It was also confiscated in 1945 and has fallen into ruin. Today this estate is known as Prosna in Polish.

the ruins of Prassen Castle

Just across the border, in the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad, is the village of Klimkova, which for most of its history was the estate and castle of Wicken. It was acquired by the Eulenbergs by marriage in 1766. Completely destroyed in 1945, the only reminder of the family’s existence here is the still fairly large number of Protestants in an otherwise very Orthodox or Catholic land.

Wicken, in East Prussia, before the war

By the seventeenth century, there were various branches of the Eulenburg family, and they served the margraves of Brandenburg (who were also dukes of Prussia) as chamberlains, diplomats and generals. The family began its rise in the first years of the eighteenth century when Gottfried of the Plassen line was named ‘Freiherr’ (baron) in 1709, and from 1726 served as Lord Marshal of the Court of the newly constituted Kingdom of Prussia, and from 1728, as Minister of War and member of the King’s Privy Council. He inherited the lands of the senior branch of the family, at Gallingen, while his son married the heiress to the neighbouring estate of Wicken, so by the time his grandson, Ernst Christoph, came of age, he had amassed a sizeable estate in East Prussia, enough for the King to elevate the family to the rank of Count (1786). So, not really the work of gnomes.

Eulenburg coat-of-arms

The Eulenburgs by tradition used ‘zu’ rather than ‘von’ in the title, which usually (but rather vaguely) implies sovereignty over a territory, not just being ‘from’ there (see notably the princes ‘von und zu’ Liechtenstein); in this case they did not even own the original castle back in Saxony from which they took their name, so I am not certain why they used ‘zu’—but they did. The first Count zu Eulenburg had six sons, and divided the patrimony into three entailed estates: Prassen, Wicken and Gallingen (the other three sons had to fend for themselves). The family maintained a base in the capital of royal Prussia, Königsberg (today’s Kaliningrad). ‘Eulenburg House’ was one of the many grand aristocratic palaces on a main street of the city, Königstraße (today known as Frunze street), and is remarkably one of the few to have survived the near complete levelling of the city in World War II. The family also maintained a country estate, Perkuiken, northeast of the city.

the former Eulenburg House in Kaliningrad, Russia

The three senior lines survive today, but it was the descendants of the sixth son, Friedrich Leopold, who rose to the highest rank. His elder son, Count Friedrich Albrecht was a very gifted scholar; he studied law then rose through the ranks of the Prussian Ministry of the Interior in the 1840s-50s. He then shifted to external affairs, and led a successful diplomatic and trade expedition to Japan and China, 1859—Prussia’s first foray into East Asia. He was recalled to Prussia in 1862 and once more to domestic affairs, now as Minister of the Interior. Over fifteen years he modernised the administrative structures of the Kingdom of Prussia and extended ‘Prussianism’ into newly acquired territories, notably the former kingdom of Hanover and the duchies of Schleswig and Holstein, annexed in 1866.

Count Friedrich Albrecht zu Eulenburg

Count Friedrich Albrecht was succeeded as Prussian Minister of the Interior in 1878 by his second cousin, Count Botho Wendt zu Eulenburg. He tried to carry out his cousin’s planned reforms, but clashed with the more conservative Chancellor Bismarck, so resigned in 1881. A decade later, after Bismarck’s retirement, he was once again Minister of the Interior, but also Minister-President of Prussia (aka, Prime Minister) from 1892 to 1894.

Count Botho zu Eulenburg

Meanwhile, Count Botho’s brother August played his part in maintaining the family’s prominence at court: as a young man he became close to Crown Prince Frederick—with the expectation that he and his brother (and his cousin, below) would play prominent roles in the more liberal regime that seemed imminent once the Crown Prince succeeded as king of Prussia and emperor of Germany. In 1883, Count August was promoted within the household to the post of Grand Master of Ceremonies, a position he would retain until 1914, with the addition of the even higher office of Grand Marshal of the Court and Household from 1890. Crown Prince Frederick did succeed to the throne, as Emperor Frederick III, but died after only three months in 1888. Eulenburg retained his position at the head of the Imperial household under Frederick’s son, William II, and was promoted again in 1907 to Minister of the Royal Household. Even after the fall of the monarchy in 1918, Count August continued to act as a formal representative of the royal family until his death in 1921.

August, Count zu Eulenburg

The Eulenburg who helped ensure his cousins Botho and August rose to such high ranks within the imperial government and household was Philipp zu Eulenburg, whose close relationship to Kaiser Wilhelm II brought the family to the pinnacle of its power, but also nearly to its ruin.

Count Philipp’s father, Philipp Konrad, had a fairly middling career, a lieutenant-colonel in the army and a chamberlain at court. It was his marriage in 1846, however, that propelled his branch of the family from moderate landowners to one of the richest in Prussia. His wife, Alexandrine, Baroness von Rothkirch and Panthen, was grandniece of Karl, Baron von Hertefeld, Lord of Liebenberg. These estates spread Eulenburg interests to the far west in Cleves and to the north of Brandenburg. The Eulenburg arms was now quartered with a red hart for Hartefeld.

Eulenburg and Hertefeld

The Hertefeld family were knights in the Rhineland dating back to the fourteenth century, based at Haus Hertefeld in Weeze, near the modern Dutch border. Originally Hertefeld was an independent imperial fief but from 1358 it was subject to the dukes of Cleves. The house was rebuilt as a baroque palace in 1700, and though it mostly burned down in February 1945, was partly rebuilt and became the Eulenburg family seat as they had lost their properties in the east. It was further restored between 1998 and 2006, rebuilding the main tower and the baroque dome—it remains the private residence of the family.

Haus Hertefeld, near Weeze, duchy of Cleves (photo Manuel Thomé)

The family also acquired Kolk House by marriage in the early sixteenth century. This was a moated castle in the village of Uedem, near Xanten, also in the Duchy of Cleves. The original fourteenth-century manor house was rebuilt in the seventeenth century in Dutch baroque style—at first in 1632, then again in 1648 after its destruction in the Thirty Years War. It was remarkably undamaged in the Second World War, and today is the seat of the younger son of the family.

Haus Kolk

In 1614, after the extinction of its ducal family, the Duchy of Cleves was awarded to the electors of Brandenburg, and the Hertefeld family began to focus their attentions on the rising power of the court in Berlin. Samuel von und zu Hertefeld entered the service of Electoral Prince Friedrich (son of the Elector), and after this prince became Elector himself, was appointed to positions of authority, first as Master of the Hunt in Cleves, 1697, then Grand Master of the Hunt of Brandenburg in 1704. By this point, the Elector had become King Frederick I of Prussia, and he elevated Hertefeld’s title as well, to baron. The new Baron von Hertefeld masterminded land reclamation projects in central Brandenburg (the Havelland) and in East Prussia, amassed a huge personal fortune, and was named Secretary of State for the Interior in 1727. He died in 1730 at Liebenberg.

The manor of Lienbenberg in northern Brandenburg (about 50 km north of Berlin), had been acquired by the Hertefeld family in 1652. The former knight’s manor house here would be rebuilt by the Samuel’s heirs in 1743, then expanded and redesigned in Historicist style by the Eulenburgs in 1875. Its chief attraction was its extensive forests with abundant game with which Philipp zu Eulenburg could entice the Kaiser to visit and thus gain his favour. It was thus an incredible windfall for the family. Confiscated by the East German government after 1945, Liebenberg was run for years as a supply centre for the Socialist Party who also used it as an educational facility and a space for social events and a guesthouse for prominent party members. In 1991 it was privatised and sold; about 2000 it was acquired by Deutsche Kreditbank and converted into a hotel and conference centre, with other buildings being used for an organic farm.

Liebenberg Castle in Brandenburg (photo Vincent Dallmann)

Count Philipp gained another asset from his mother Alexandrine. She was musical and had established a friendship with Cosima von Bülow, daughter of the composer Franz Liszt, and later wife of Richard Wagner (see below), who encouraged her son’s musical and philosophical education. His place in the circle of the growing cult of Richard Wagner—using high art to advance the cause of nationalism—led him also to espouse the racist ‘Aryanist’ ideologies of the French aristocrat Gobineau, and he may even have had a sexual relationship with him. Young Philipp became a vocal nationalist and anti-semite. He feared instability in Germany’s new empire after 1870, so grew to oppose the spread of democracy but also the power of the Catholic Church, since it divided the loyalties of its adherents between Berlin and Rome.

Like many members of his family, Count Philipp became a diplomat, and worked in Paris and Munich for much of the 1880s. He became increasingly drawn to the life of an artist, penning some plays, short stories and musical compositions: the collection ‘Old Norse Songs’ was published in 1892, as were the ‘Rose Songs’ (Rosenlieder) which were quite popular during his lifetime. He also added to his branch of the family’s fortune and influence through a marriage in 1875 to Augusta Sandels, grand-daughter and heiress of Johan August Sandels, Governor-General of Norway, 1818, and Swedish Field Marshal—he had gained fame as a general who defeated the Russians in 1808, then Napoleon in 1813-14, and was rewarded with lands in Swedish Pomerania. In 1815, Pomerania was granted to Prussia and the general was created Count Sandels, a title which later passed to his grand-daughter and her husband.

Crucially, from about 1886, Count Philipp became very close to Prince Wilhelm of Prussia (12 years younger)—almost too close, which made Chancellor Bismarck uncomfortable. In particular, Eulenburg introduced the young Wilhelm to the occult, consulted clairvoyants, led séances. Perhaps to remove him from the scene, Bismarck sent Eulenburg to Oldenburg as ambassador from Prussia in 1888. By the end of that year, however, Wilhelm had succeeded his father as Kaiser, and Eulenburg was back at court. He was courted by those aspiring for power as the closest friend of the new Kaiser—and was a central player in Bismarck’s overthrow in March 1890.

Philipp zu Eulenburg on holiday with Kaiser Wilhelm II, 1890

By 1894, Eulenburg, though holding no official post except ambassador (to Munich, 1891-93; to Vienna, 1893-1902), was almost as powerful as the Chancellor, using his personal influence with the Kaiser to change policy, appointing his cousins to eminent posts in government and the household (Botho and August, as above), and forging an alliance with Bernhard von Bülow—pushing him to the top spot as Chancellor in 1900 (see below). From his post in Vienna, he continued to support Wagnerism and antisemitism, yet he maintained a close relationship with Jewish banker Nathaniel Meyer, Baron von Rothschild, who left him 1 million krones. The late 1890s was a time of increasing suspicion of sexual deviancy at the court of Berlin, with the Kaiser depicted mostly as a hapless victim if not an active participant (which is unlikely). Indeed, in 1897, Count Philipp’s younger brother Friedrich was charged by the Army of being a homosexual; and in 1898, one of Eulenburg’s closest friends, General Kuno von Moltke, was accused by his wife of preferring sex with Eulenburg. Even the Kaiser’s wife, Empress Auguste, accused her husband of spending more time with Eulenburg than with her or their children, suggesting that they were themselves having an affair.

A homosexual affair between Eulenburg and the Kaiser seems unlikely, but Wilhelm did reward his friend’s loyalty with the greatest prize, elevating him to the rank of Prince zu Eulenburg und Hertefeld, with the style of ‘serene highness’ in 1900. Yet already the new prince expressed fear in personal letters of the now near constant stormy and explosive rages of the Kaiser. They began to disagree over military strategy, as Philipp was pro-war but against the expansion of naval power, a project close to Wilhelm’s heart as the best way to show up his British relatives.

Philipp, 1st Prince of Eulenburg-Hertefeld, 1906

In 1906-07, Prince Eulenburg’s position at the centre of the Kaiser’s court began to crumble following a series of scandals known as the Harden-Eulenburg Affair. At the heart of the affair was factional politics: Eulenburg and Bülow versus Friedrich von Holstein, the Kaiser’s leading advisor on foreign affairs. Holstein had been angered by the failure of the Algeciras Conference (over the colonial partition of Morocco) in April 1906, and made a show of resigning—then was surprised when the Kaiser accepted his resignation on the prompting of Eulenberg. So Holstein sought revenge. He challenged Eulenberg to a duel, which the latter declined, so Holstein turned instead to social discrediting by means of the sensationalist media always eager for a juicy story. Though it has never been proven, it is thought he encouraged the journalist Maximilian Harden to publish articles in Die Zukunft abut the so-called ‘Liebenberg Round Table’, a cult of homosexuals who dominated the Kaiser and his court. The articles accused Eulenburg and his friends of being ‘too soft’ to go to war with France over Morocco and suggested that he was in fact being blackmailed by a French diplomat in Berlin, Raymond Lecomte, with whom he was having an affair. Eulenburg and Lecomte were in fact hunting buddies, spending time in the forests of Liebenberg, and Lecomte did suspiciously burn his papers after the article’s publication. Harden decried Eulenburg’s love of singing, and called for ‘real men’ like Bismarck to return to the helm of the Imperial government.

a cartoon in a French newspaper, satirising Prussian men flirting in a park while women campaign for the vote in the background (‘Happily, we still have love!’ he says)–perhaps it is Eulenburg and the Kaiser himself

The affair spread in 1907 when Kuno von Moltke sued Harden for libel, and lost. An early champion of gay rights, Magnus Hirschfeld, testified that Moltke was indeed a homosexual, but argued that there was nothing wrong with that. The judge overturned the jury’s decision, so Harden settled out of court. Another campaigner for gay rights, Adolf Brand, published a pamphlet saying that Chancellor von Bülow was a homosexual, so a new case was started, Bülow vs Brand, which involved Eulenburg who testified that he had never committed ‘depravities’ with Bülow or any other men. Eulenburg then accused Harden of being a ‘rascally Jew’. Harden next set himself up in April 1908 in a fake trial with a fellow journalist in Munich, in which two Bavarian fishermen testified to having been sodomised by Eulenburg back in the 1880s when he was on holiday there—thus also accusing Eulenburg of perjury due to his testimony in the other trial. This led to the Prince’s arrest in May and the police conveniently seized and burned his papers; later discoveries revealed that Eulenburg did have a close relationship with one of the fishermen (Jakob Ernst), as did the then Prince Wilhelm. The Kaiser now wrote to Eulenburg saying he wanted no homosexuals at his court and never wanted to see his former friend again. Other friends wrote to him in prison that he should save the Kaiser’s honour and his family’s reputation by committing suicide. All of his friends (including Moltke) turned against him.

Eulenburg struck back by accusing Jakob Ernst of being a drunk (even by Bavarian standards), and that the entire affair was a Catholic plot (Jesuits, Bavarian separatists) to destroy him, a champion of Protestant Prussian values. Several working-class men testified against him. In mid-July 1908, the Prince collapsed in court and the judge ruled him unfit for trial. He was declared unfit twice a year from then on until his death in 1924. By late 1908, Maximilian Harden turned his attention to the Kaiser himself, since he thought he had been in the thrall of this den of homosexual vipers (today we might call them ‘catty queens’ sitting at the back of a darkened disco) due to something they had on him. He called for Holstein to take the lead in government and lead Germany to war as a means of purifying the nation.

Germany did go to war in 1914, though without Prince Philipp zu Eulenburg anywhere near the levers of government, and caused the death of the Prince’s beloved second son. Count Botho, who went by second name Sigwart, shared many of his father’s artistic traits: drawn to music, he was invited as a young man by Cosima Wagner to Bayreuth to learn the trade, then studied with Max Reger at the Conservatory in Leipzig, completing a doctorate on a sixteenth-century German composer in 1907. He married the singer Helene Staegemann and composed songs for soprano, as well as an organ concerto, a melodrama for orchestra (‘Hector’) and an opera, the ‘Song of Euripides’ (1915). That same year he joined the army and was killed in Galicia.

Count Sigwart zu Eulenburg

Sigwart’s death devastated the Prince, who spent the rest of his life trying to contact him in séances. By December 1917, Eulenburg was in despair and wrote to friends that Germany was losing the war because of the Kaiser and the Jews. In later years he claimed he would have stopped the war from happening at all if he had still been ambassador to Austria-Hungary in 1914.

Prince Philipp’s eldest son, Friedrich Wend, had an interesting career himself as 2nd Prince zu Eulenburg und Hartefeld and Count von Sandels. As a young man he befriended Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian occultist and founder of ‘Anthrosophy’ the study of accessing the spiritual world. Steiner had been a friend of Count Sigwart and tried to communicate with him after his death in 1915. Once he succeeded his father as head of the family, Friedrich Wend became a leading member of the conservative landowners party in Prussia, and was instrumental in convincing them to combat Bolshevism and gain the support of the masses by joining with the Nazi Party in its surge to power in Germany. Indeed, Hermann Göring lived at the estate that neighboured Leiebenberg, so social connections were forged. The Prince fell from favour however due to his niece’s activities as part of the anti-Nazi resistance, and his own efforts to petition the government to release some religious prisoners in 1941—seemingly as a result, his son Wend was posted to the Eastern Front, then to Italy, in both cases the most dangerous places in the war, and he was captured in April 1945 by American troops (probably saving his life). He fled with his wife to their properties in West Germany, and, soon joined by their son, rebuilt the property of Hartefeld.

Friedrich Wend, 2nd Prince of Eulenburg-Hertefeld

The 2nd Prince died in 1963, followed by Wend, the 3rd Prince, in 1986. The current prince is Philipp (b. 1938), who presides over his two sons who manage the two remaining family properties with their families: Friedrich (b. 1966) in Hartefeld and Siegwart (b. 1969) at Kolk.

an oriole, or ‘bülow’ (photo Agnete)

Another family that rose slowly to the top of the Prussian aristocratic hierarchy through centuries of service were the von Bülows. Only one of them was named a prince, which earns this family a place among the dukes and princes, but like the Eulenburgs—in fact even more so—their dynastic history includes some very colourful stories.

In the early thirteenth century, a knight named Gottfried took the name of a small village in Mecklenburg, Bulowe, which in turn took its name from the local Wendish word for oriole, bülow, which from then on appeared as an element of the family coat of arms. The Wends were a Slavic people, gradually being pushed out of their Baltic principalities by ever increasing Germanic populations, and the dukes of Mecklenburg themselves—as seen in an earlier post on this site—retained a certain Slavicness in their bloodline, all the way to the twentieth century. Their German vassals, being so close to the Baltic and the Scandinavian realms spread northward, so there were branches of the von Bülow family who earned a place within the Danish and Swedish nobilities as well (the Swedish branch known as the Bylow). The family landholdings straddled the frontier between Mecklenburg and Holstein to the west, and in 1470 they added the significant estate of Gudow in the neighbouring duchy of Saxony-Lauenburg. The lord of Gudow was one of the political leaders of this duchy as hereditary land marshal (until 1882); their castle housed the ducal archives. A new castle was built here in the early sixteenth century, then remodelled along neoclassical lines in the 1820s; it remains one of the primary properties of the Bülow family to the present day.

Gudow Manor in 1830

As with many noble families of the Holy Roman Empire, their status was raised through the church, and in this case the Bülow family had four bishops of nearby Schwerin in the fourteenth century. About this time, a family shrine was established at Doberan Minster near the Baltic coast. This monastery was founded by the local dukes in the 1170s, the first in Mecklenburg. In the sixteenth century, it was converted into a Lutheran church. The Bülows restored it in 1874, and its ceiling proudly sports the Bülow arms.

Doberan Minster, with the Bülow coat-of-arms (photo Malchen53)

Over the centuries, the Bülow family became one of the largest landowners in Mecklenburg, and provided the dukes of Mecklenburg and the neighbouring margraves of Brandenburg with generals, courtiers and statesmen, and split into many, many sub-branches. One of these was based at Dennewitz, southwest of Berlin near the frontier with Saxony, and contributed two generals to the army of Frederick the Great, then one of the leading commanders of the next generation in the fight against Napoleon, Friedrich Wilhelm von Bülow. He was a member of the inner circle of King Frederick William II, and in the 1790s was assigned to be military instructor to the King’s nephew, Prince Louis Ferdinand of Prussia. By 1813 he was a lieutenant-general and helped defeat a French army—at Dennewitz in fact—in September of that year, preventing an attempted occupation of Berlin and turning the tide of the war. He was rewarded with the title of count (Bülow-Dennewitz) and the next year was promoted to full general and given the task of driving the French out of the Low Countries and joining his armies to those of General Blücher for the invasion of France itself. In the months that followed Count von Bülow was named Commander-in-Chief of East Prussia, with his base in Königsberg, but was soon recalled to fight with Blücher again on the plains of Waterloo for Napoleon’s final defeat. He died a year later.

Count Friedrich Wilhelm von Bülow-Dennewitz

The famous General von Bülow’s country seat was at Schloß Grünhoff, in East Prussia on the Baltic coast—a district called Samland, west of the city of Königsberg. The castle, originally built by the Elector of Brandenburg and Duke of Prussia in 1697 as a hunting lodge, was rebuilt by his son in the 1850s. It had also been the site for many years of one of the largest stud farms in the region, dating back all the way to the era of the Teutonic Order (fourteenth/fifteenth centuries). It survived World War II and today, as Roschino, in the Russian district of Kaliningrad, is being renovated.

Schloß Grünhoff, East Prussia, now Roschino, Russia

Another line of the family was based at Essenrode, near Helmstedt across the border in Hanover. In the eighteenth century they served the electors of Hanover (also kings of Great Britain) in various administrative roles. Another Friedrich Wilhelm von Bülow was a prominent judicial official in Hanover then aided Prussia in its takeover of that kingdom after 1806. His first cousin, Count von Hardenberg, had recently become Chancellor of Prussia, and promoted his career. Having been successful in Hanover, Friedrich Wilhelm was given the task of also incorporating occupied Polish and Lithuanian territories into the Kingdom of Prussia, then those of occupied Saxony, and after the war was Oberpräsident (civic governor) of the new Prussian province of Saxony. Like his cousin from the Dennewitz branch, he too was raised in rank to count, 1816. His brother Hans was also a successful politician: named Minister of Finance of the new Kingdom of Westphalia in 1808, then transferred to the same post in Prussia from 1813-17. He was then Minister of Commerce, 1817-25. His lasting achievement as a financial policy maker for Prussia was to create a system of customs barriers that made Prussia wealthy and made other German states want to join Prussia in a customs union—the first steps towards German unification later in the century.

Hans, Count von Bülow-Essenrode

Essenrode Manor had been built in 1738 by an earlier Bülow (the estate itself had been acquired in the 1620s, with an old moated manor house from the fourteenth century). In 1837 it was sold to the von Lüneburg family, an illegitimate branch of the House of Brunswick, who still own it today.

Essenrode Manor, Lower Saxony (photo Axel Hindemith)

The branch that gave us our single Bülow prince moved from Mecklenburg into Danish service in the eighteenth century. Baron Heinrich von Bülow was a diplomat who married the daughter of a prominent diplomat Wilhelm von Humboldt—better known as a political philosopher and educational reformer—and rose to become Prussian Foreign Minister, 1842-45. His nephew Bernhard Ernst worked for the King of Denmark and represented his interests as Duke of Schleswig and Holstein in the German Diet in the 1850s. Here he got to know Otto von Bismarck, forging a bond between their families that would persist for the next generations. In 1862 he became Chief Minister of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, then ten years later was appointed by Bismarck, now Chancellor of the new German Empire, to be Secretary for Foreign Affairs, and he remained Bismarck’s right-hand man in diplomatic policy until his death in 1879. It was Bernhard Ernst’s son Bernhard Heinrich who rose even further to become prince and Chancellor of the Empire.

Bernhard Ernst von Bülow

Bernhard Heinrich von Bülow was raised near Hamburg at a villa owned by his mother’s family, the Rückers of Hamburg (today known as the Voss’sche Villa), in Klein Flottbek, on the north bank of the Elbe west of the city. He entered German foreign service in the 1870s, and became particularly useful to Chancellor Bismarck as a diplomat in Russia in the 1880s, helping to forge better ties with Germany’s most powerful neighbour to the east. In 1888 he was named Ambassador to Romania, then to Italy, 1893.

Bernhard von von Bülow’s birthplace at Klein Flottbek, outside Hamburg

In 1897 he was appointed Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, and in fact was the premier minister for the Kaiser since the Chancellor, Prince Hohenlohe, was very old. As director of Imperial policy, Bülow stressed colonial expansion, which annoyed France and the Netherlands, and an aggressive expansion of the Imperial Navy, which alienated Britain and Russia. He was elevated within the Prussian nobility to the rank of count in 1899. When Hohenlohe retired in October 1900, Bülow moved into his place as Chancellor of the German Empire and Prime Minister of Prussia. His government’s successful defiance towards France in a colonial clash over Morocco led the Kaiser to promote him to the rank of prince, which coincided with celebrations for the wedding of the Crown Prince, in June 1905. A prince needed a large fortune to sustain this dignity, and in 1904, he inherited five million marks from a cousin, Wilhelm von Godeffroy, a Berlin banker.

Bernhard, Prince von von Bülow, Chancellor of the German Empire

Things began to unravel for Prince von Bülow during the Eulenburg Scandal of 1907, as detailed above—he too was accused of being part of the homosexual circle of ‘court deviants’, but successfully sued his accusers for libel. But early in 1908, Wilhelm II made offensive and embarrassing anti-English comments to a journalist from The Daily Telegraph, and the Chancellor failed to stop its publication; his relationship with both the Kaiser and the Reichstag broke down and he resigned in June 1909. The official reason given was over his failure to pass a bill on inheritance tax. But his career was not over: in 1914 he was appointed Ambassador to Italy to try to convince King Victor Emmanuel to enter the war on the side of Germany and Austria-Hungary. The Prince tried to broker a deal between Italy and Austria-Hungary (over possession of South Tirol, Trieste and other territories), but in May 1915, Italy declared war on Austria-Hungary, and Ambassador von Bülow left Rome. He lived out of the spotlight for the next decade and died in 1929.

Bernhard von Bülow was aided in his Italian diplomacy by his marriage back in the 1880s to Maria Anna Beccadelli, Princess of Camporeale, intimately connected to high-ranking Italian politicians as the step-daughter of a former Italian prime minister, Marco Minghetti. The Bülows purchased a villa in Rome, the Villa Malta and lived there much of the time after 1909. Built on the Pincian Hill, near the Villa Medici, the villa had been an old country estate of the princely Orsini family since the sixteenth century, then passed through several interesting owners, including the Order of Malta in the seventeenth century (hence the name), the Bavarian royal family between 1827 and 1878, then by a Count Bobrinski (a descendant of Catherine the Great and Gregory Orlov) who rebuilt it in a more Romantic style. Since World War II it has been owned by the Jesuits.

Maria Anna Beccadelli, Princess of Camporeale, Princess von Bülow
Villa Malta in Rome, painted in 1830

Prince von Bülow had no sons, and his brothers pre-deceased him, so there were no other princes von Bülow. His wife Maria Anna, besides providing useful links to Roman political culture, also provides and interesting link to the second most well-known member of this family. As a young woman, she had been a pupil of the Hungarian composer Franz Liszt, and thus would have known Liszt’s daughter, Cosima (about ten years older), and her first husband, Hans von Bülow. These relationships also bring us back into the orbit of the composer Richard Wagner, whom we encountered above in the context of Philipp zu Eulenburg. Cosima scandalised Europe in 1870 when she divorced Hans and married Wagner.

Cosima Liszt

Hans, Freiherr von Bülow, was a very distant cousin to Bernhard von Bülow. He was born in Saxony where his branch had entered service of the electors and later kings of Saxony. His father, Karl Eduard, was a novelist and an early proponent of ‘German studies’ as a new branch of literary scholarship. From a young age Hans became a student of music, and was apprenticed to the great piano virtuoso and composer, Franz Liszt—in 1857 he married his daughter Cosima. Hans von Bülow swiftly became known as a conductor and pianist himself, and was appointed Hofkapellmeister to the court of the King of Bavaria in Munich in 1864, and director of the Royal School of Music in 1867. A devoted Wagnerite, he conducted the premiers of the operas Tristan and Isolde (1865) and Die Meistersinger (1868). His daughters were even named for Wagnerian heroines: aside from Isolde, there was Senta (from Flying Dutchman), Elisabeth (from Tannhäuser) and Eva (from Meistersinger).

Hans von Bülow, conductor and pianist

But Von Bülow’s conducting and performing schedule kept him away from his wife. Cosima was also drawn to the great master, and, after having several children with Wagner, demanded a divorce and was finally granted it in 1870. Hans broke permanently with Wagner, but his career continued to flourish. He composed and made transcriptions of larger works for piano, and premiered new compositions such as Tchaikovsky’s first piano concerto in Boston in 1875. In 1880 was appointed Hofkapellmeister in the court of the Grand Duke of Saxe-Meiningen, where he developed its orchestra into one of Europe’s leading ensembles (and hired a young Richard Strauss as his conducting assistant!). From 1887 to 1892 he served as principal conductor of the Berlin Philharmonic—the crowning position to his career as one of the most famous musicians in the world—and died two years later

Neither the Prince-Chancellor nor the Baron-Conductor left male descendants, but there were plenty of other family members to carry on the name in the twentieth century. In the military, there was Field Marshal Karl von Bülow, commander of the German Second Army in 1914-15, who defeated the French at Charleroi in the first month of the war; and Walter von Bülow-Bothkamp, an ace fighter pilot killed in action in 1918.

Ace Pilot Walter von Bülow

In the world of the arts, there was Vicco von Bülow, known as ‘Loriot’—a name taken from the family’s oriole namesake, a well-known comedian and cartoonist in the 1950s, who voiced his own cartoon dog Wum on German television in the 1970s. Later in life he too was an important figure in the world of classical music, as a director of operas in the 1980s-90s, notably a narrated version of Wagner’s Ring.

Loriot with Wum (photo Goebel/EPA)

Finally, back in the world of politics, there was Frits Toxwerdt von Bülow, a Danish lawyer who became Justice Minster in Denmark in 1910, and later Speaker of the Landsting, the upper house of the Danish parliament, in 1920. His grandson Claus once again ties this blog to world of aristocratic scandal. Although he used the surname ‘von Bülow’, this was in fact his mother’s name; his father was Danish playwright Svend Borberg. Claus von Bülow moved to Britain and established himself as a lawyer and socialite in the 1950s. In 1966, he married Martha Crawford, better known as ‘Sunny’, the daughter and heiress of an American utilities magnate and the former wife of the Prince of Auersperg. In 1982, Claus was accused of attempting to murder Sunny by means of an insulin overdose, but was declared innocent after appealing an initial conviction—the central story of the book and later film Reversal of Fortune (1990), starring Jeremy Irons and Meryl Streep. Sunny lived on in a vegetative state for twenty-eight years until 2008, and Claus died in 2019. They had a daughter who, probably not coincidentally, they named Cosima von Bülow.

As an interesting, but actually unrelated, coda: we see a family called Eulenburg in nineteenth century who in a sense tie together the themes of sexuality and music in this blog. The Jewish Eulenburg family of Leipzig converted to Protestantism in the 1840s, and started a music publishing house in 1874. The founder’s brother, Albrecht Eulenburg, was a prominent sexologist. The family were expelled from Germany in 1939 and moved most of their operation to London. In the 1950s they were incorporated into the Schott publishing house, though the Eulenburg scores are still published and very recognisable on the shelves in their canary yellow.

Some interesting further reading:

  • John Röhl, The Kaiser and His Court (Cambridge University Press, 1994)
  • Norman Domeier, The Eulenburg Affair: A Cultural History of Politics in the German Empire (Boydell & Brewer, 2015)
  • Alan Walker, Hans von Bülow (Oxford University Press, 2009)
  • Katherine Anne Lerman, Chancellor as Courtier. Bernhard von Bulow & the Governance of Germany, 1900–1909 (Cambridge University Press, 1990)

Seymour of Wolf Hall: the rise and fall and rise again of the dukes of Somerset

The woman at the centre of the historical drama The Mirror and the Light—though she doesn’t say very much—is Jane Seymour, third wife of Henry VIII of England and mother of the future king, Edward VI. Hilary Mantel’s trilogy focuses on the rise and fall of Thomas Cromwell, from a tradesman’s son to chief minister of the King and Earl of Essex, but there are other similar arcs as well: the rise and fall of Anne Boleyn in books one and two, the fall and rise of Stephen Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, the rise and rise of Cromwell’s protegé, Thomas Wriothesley (‘Call-Me Risley’), and the great ascent from country gentry to royal in-laws of the Seymour brothers, Edward and Thomas. Throughout the novels and the television series there is a strong distinction made between a family of ancient lineage, such as that of Thomas Howard, who is confident that his line will endure no matter what the temporary ups and downs of court life bring him—and for the most part, despite a century of executions and attainders awaiting his family, he is correct, and the dukes of Norfolk remain today at the top of the British peerage. Less certain is the fate that awaits those families of ‘newer blood’ who are raised up by Henry VIII: Cromwell’s son survives his father’s downfall and execution in 1540 and retains his barony which is then passed down through generations of Cromwells before it becomes extinct in 1687. Wriothesley continues to prosper in Tudor service and is created Earl of Southampton at the start of the reign of Edward VI (1547). His heirs remain at the top of the court society until this earldom also becomes extinct in 1667. Of this collection of ‘new men’ at the Tudor court, the one that surpasses both of these in terms of longevity is—after a setback of over a century—the Seymours, dukes of Somerset.

Holbein’s celebrated portrait of Jane Seymour, Queen of England

The Seymours of Wolf Hall are mostly associated with Wiltshire, the flat and fertile county in the West Country where Henry VIII goes hunting at the end of the book Wolf Hall and discovers his blushing beauty Jane. Though Wolf Hall no longer remains in Seymour hands, their main ducal seat today, Bradley House, is also in Wiltshire. They also held significant lands in the neighbouring county of Somerset (hence perhaps the choice of title for the dukedom), and for a time were based in Devon (at Berry Pomeroy Castle and Stover House). But before any of this, the Seymours came from Monmouthshire in South Wales.

Like so many families of the English aristocracy who wanted to rise at court, having Norman ancestry was of paramount importance, even if you had to fudge it a bit. The later Seymours claimed their name was a corruption of the name St Maur, derived from a village of that name in Normandy near Avranches (though there are several towns in France named for the sixth-century Benedictine monk Saint Maurus). There was indeed a prominent family of that name who settled in Somerset and Wiltshire in the eleventh century and were created Baron St Maur in 1314—they had a different coat of arms to the family that gave rise to the Seymours, but that doesn’t necessarily mean anything, since heraldry was adopted after many Norman family lines had already split. The Barons St Maur died out in 1409 and their barony passed to the La Zouche family. Their possible relation was William St Maur who lived in Monmouthshire in 1240. His seat was Penhow (where the parish church is named for St Maur), a manor house later built into a castle by Roger de St Maur in the early twelfth century. It passed out of the family in 1359, but just in time to be surpassed by an even grander estate, that of the Beauchamp family in Somerset.

Penhow Castle in Monmouthshire (photo Brassknocker)

The Barons Beauchamp, of Hatch or Hache in Somerset, were one of the most prominent Norman families in the West Country. Their chief estate was part of a royal hunting forest granted shortly after the conquest of 1066 (a ‘hache’ is a Saxon word for a gateway into the forest). Several branches of the Beauchamp family—whose name means ‘beautiful field’ in French—spread across southern England: aside from the branch in Somerset, the line in Bedfordshire (Bletsoe) ultimately joined with the Beauforts (the family of the mother of Henry VII), while that of Warwickshire became the powerful earls of Warwick of the thirteenth to fifteenth centuries—much of their land and titles ultimately passed to another ‘new’ family of the Tudor era, rivals of the Seymours, the Dudleys. The Beauchamps of Hatch had a very simple yet distinctive coat of arms, an alternating pattern of blue and white known as ‘vair’, or squirrel’s fur. It is thought, by the way, that Cinderella’s glass slipper was not in fact verre (glass) in the original French version of the story, but vair, a more sensible material out of which to make shoes…

the vair pattern of the Beauchamps of Hatch

The Somerset Beauchamps were invited to Parliament as barons in 1299, but they died out in the 1360s—the peerage went into abeyance and has stayed there evermore, despite attempts to revive it. But the feudal barony (different from a peerage) passed to Cecily de Beauchamp, wife of Sir Roger de St Maur (or Seymour as he started to spell it by the 1390s). The Beauchamp name and distinctive arms will re-appear later in the Seymour history, notably as Viscount Beauchamp. Hatch itself passed out of the Seymour family in the 1670s; the house was torn down and replaced, then sold to another family again.

But the Seymours still maintained a residence in South Wales: the manor of Undy (Woundy or Gwndy), in Monmouthshire, which remained their main seat until the early 1400s when they moved to Wolf Hall in Wiltshire.

Another Roger Seymour, Speaker of the House of Commons, married Maud Esturmy, heiress in 1427 of the manor of Wulfhall in Savernake Forest, southeast of Marlborough. Savernake was a royal forest, granted to Maud’s father Sir William Esturmy—it is still privately owned (the only ancient forest in England still in private hands) by the Bruce family, whom we’ll encounter below. It is likely this is the forest in which Henry VIII was hunting when he met Jane. There was a large manor house at Wulfhall in the 1530s, with towers, which was mostly in ruins by the 1570s when the family moved to nearby Totnam (see below). The remains of the house continued to be used by servants, and evolved into a more modest farmhouse, leased out to tenants (and with a newer Georgian wing and a Victorian façade)—but recent archaeological digs have revealed some of the splendours of the original Wolf Hall, notably in tunnels underground.

fragments of the Tudor wing of the farmhouse at Wolf Hall (photo ‘The Real Wolfhall’)
a gnarly old tree in Savernake Forest

Roger and Maud’s son John became Hereditary Warden of Savernake Forest, and Sheriff of Wiltshire, as was his son, also called John. Three more Johns followed as eldest son, until the last one died young, leaving his brother Edward as new head of the family. Edward’s mother, Margery Wentworth, had a drop of Plantagenet blood in her veins (via the Cliffords, Percys and Mortimers), which thus entered the Seymour bloodline. Closer to hand, she also shared blood with her half first cousins, Thomas Howard, 3rd Duke of Norfolk, and Elizabeth Boleyn, mother of Queen Anne. So young Edward Seymour was not without connections when he entered life at the court of Henry VIII. Sir John Seymour had served Henry VII and Henry VIII in various military campaigns and was named Sheriff and Justice of the Peace for Wiltshire, and notably, Constable of Bristol Castle in 1509. He was thus able to use his service and his wife’s connections to get his son Edward a place in the entourage of Princess Mary when she married King Louis XII of France in 1514—and his rise at court started from there.

Edward Seymour served with Henry VIII on his campaigns in France in 1523 and in 1529 was named esquire of the body and became one of the King’s favoured companions. He invited the King hunting at Wulfhall during a royal progress in 1535, and secured the King’s interest in his sister Jane. But Jane and her sister Elizabeth had already been living at court, as maids of honour to Queen Katherine of Aragon by at least 1532, and later in the household of Queen Anne Boleyn, whom she supplanted in May 1536—betrothed to the King only a day after Anne’s execution. Edward Seymour was raised to the peerage as Viscount Beauchamp. Just over a year later, in October 1537, Jane gave birth to Prince Edward—a Tudor heir at last!—and her brother Edward was promoted again, to Earl of Hertford.

Edward Seymour as Earl of Hertford and Knight of the Garter

The Seymour arms was considerably augmented at this time as well—with a new element derived from the English royal arms, something we don’t see very often in English heraldry (the Howards being another example). In addition to their quite distinctive two golden wings on red, we now see a dramatic design whereby a field of blue fleurs-de-lys on gold (a reversal of the French royal arms) is divided by three gold English lions on red. The new Earl’s arms also included Beauchamp of Hatch on the top row, and below this the other families whose lands and pretensions he had inherited: Esturmy, MacWilliams and Coker.

the augmented arms of the Seymours

Sadly Queen Jane died about a week after giving birth to Prince Edward. The Earl of Hertford managed to retain the King’s favour, however, and as uncle to the future king, was in a good position. Seymour’s greatest skill was as a military commander, and he effectively led campaigns against the Scots and the French in 1544-46. He returned from France as a hero in late 1546 and attended the King in his last months, then was named one of sixteen executors of the King’s will and guardians of the realm when Henry VIII died in late January 1547. Within days, Seymour had superseded the terms of the will and declared himself head of the regency council, and on 4 February was named Lord Protector of the Realm in the name of his little nephew, now King Edward VI. Hertford was also raised in the peerage once more: as Duke of Somerset, still an extremely rare title in England.

young Edward VI with his uncles Edward and Thomas Seymour, and Thomas Cranmer (part of a larger image illustrating the succession from Henry VIII to Edward VI and the defeat of popery)

The regime of Lord Protector Somerset solidified the shift of power at court in favour of the Protestant faction. The Catholic Howards and Stephen Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, were now out. Titles were given to Somerset’s allies, Wriothesley (Earl of Southampton) and Dudley (Earl of Warwick), and Somerset’s brother Thomas (created Baron Seymour of Sudeley and Lord High Admiral). There was another Seymour brother, Henry, but although he too had previously held some positions at court (notably in the households of queens Anne of Cleves and Katherine Parr), he preferred to remain in the countryside working as an administrator for the Crown—and he notably survived the tumults of the next decade and died much later.

Sudeley Castle has an ancient an interesting history, with royal roots back into the Anglo-Saxon period, and though most famous today as the resting place for Queen Katherine Parr, it was only a Seymour property for a few years. Most of its story belongs on a future blog post for the Brydges family, dukes of Chandos, who held it for about two centuries. It had been a royal property since the 1470s, granted by young Edward VI to Thomas Seymour in 1547, along with his new wife, the Dowager Queen, Katherine Parr. It returned to Crown ownership in 1553 then was given to Baron Chandos. Mostly ruins by the end of the eighteenth century it was partly restored by the Dent-Brocklehursts in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries who still live there today.

Sudeley Castle in Gloucestershire (photo Ethan Doyle White)

Meanwhile, the Duke of Somerset needed a London base. He had acquired a plot of land in 1539 in the area between the cities of London and Westminster, with one side facing the Thames and one side facing the old connecting road known as the Strand (for the old word for a river embankment). Now he began to build a new palace, Somerset House, importing newly fashionable architectural styles from the Continent. It was hardly started when it was confiscated by the Crown and from then on housed various members of the royal family, usually women: from Princess Elizabeth in the 1550s, and three Stuart consorts in the seventeenth century, Anne of Denmark, Henrietta Maria of France, and Catherine of Braganza. From 1775 it was completely rebuilt as a space for government offices and learned societies: the Royal Academy was here until the 1830s, and the Inland Revenue was based here until 2013. Since the 1990s Somerset House has been transformed into an arts centre, housing the Courtauld Institute and various independent creative businesses.

old Somerset House before it was replaced in the 1770s

The 1st Duke of Somerset remained a strong military leader, soundly defeating the Scots at Pinkie in September 1547. But cracks in his administration appeared almost immediately, mostly via the ambitions of his friend Dudley and his brother Thomas, who wanted the position of governor of the young King and was jealous of his older brother’s power. He and his new wife Katherine Parr were already looking after her step-daughter and ward, Princess Elizabeth; and when Katherine died in September 1548, Thomas began to make noises about marrying Elizabeth himself—a future king-consort if Edward died, or at least royal brother-in-law (as well as royal uncle). This bold ambition was too much for the Lord Protector and other members of the Council, and in January 1549, he was arrested on charges of embezzlement and was beheaded in March.

Thomas Seymour, Baron Seymour of Sudeley

Other opposition to Somerset’s rule came from various quarters. His desire to impose Protestant unity on the people of England, via the Act of Uniformity, 1549, and the Book of Common Prayer, annoyed those still faithful to the old church, mostly in rural communities. These were further angered by his reforms to landholding policies that allowed landowners to encroach on common lands. He also raised taxes to pay for the expensive ongoing war with Scotland. Two major rebellions were sparked, in the south and the east, which ultimately led to the financial ruin of the realm and the downfall of Protector Somerset’s regime. He was arrested in October 1549, and though he was soon released, he was replaced as head of the Regency Council by Robert Dudley, Earl of Warwick. In October 1551, Somerset was arrested again and sent to the Tower for treason (on vague charges), then was executed in January 1552 on charges of trying to usurp government back from Dudley (now Duke of Northumberland). Just over fifteen years after the triumph of the marriage of Jane Seymour to Henry VIII, the Seymour dynasty seemed finished.

And the dangers were not completely over. The 1st Duke of Somerset had had two sons by his first wife, John and Edward. Both had been disinherited back in 1540 when their father suspected their mother of infidelity. It wasn’t a full disinheritance though, but a curious ‘postponement’ of their rights to a succession (including, ultimately, the ducal title) to a position after the sons of Somerset’s second marriage. John had tried to fight back and sued for his mother’s succession, but it had been sold, so he was compensated with a new estate, Maiden Bradley, about which more later. Despite being semi-bastardised, the two older boys were arrested alongside their father in 1551—John died in the Tower in 1552, but Edward survived and formed a separate Seymour line in Devon, to which we will return.

The immediate successors to the 1st Duke of Somerset thus came from his second marriage. A second Edward (known as Lord Hertford as his father’s heir) had been educated alongside his cousin Edward VI. After his father’s execution, he was at first barred from succeeding to any lands or titles, but later some lands were restored by the young King. In 1559, Princess Elizabeth became Queen Elizabeth I and raised Seymour (now age 20) to the peerage once more as Earl of Hertford and Baron Beauchamp of Hatch. But just one year later he took a great risk by marrying in secret the Queen’s cousin and potential heir: Lady Catherine Grey, sister of the executed Jane Grey and granddaughter of Henry VII’s daughter Princess Mary. Although Mary was younger than Margaret, Queen of Scots, the terms of Henry VIII’s will favoured her descendants, the Greys, over the Stuarts, making Catherine Grey the heir. When the Queen discovered this marriage—due to Catherine’s evident pregnancy—she confined both in the Tower, where Catherine gave birth to a son, another Edward. The marriage was declared invalid and the son illegitimate. Somehow they managed to have more children in the Tower, then Catherine died in 1568 and Hertford was released. By 1576 he seemed to be in favour, as he was noted as carrying the Great Sword of State in formal processions at court.

Edward Seymour, Earl of Hertford
Lady Catherine Grey and her son Edward Seymour, Lord Beauchamp

In about 1575, the Earl of Hertford moved his seat from Wulfhall to a new house nearby: Tottenham or Totnam Lodge in Savernake Forest. This house would be enlarged in the 1670s by the 4th Duke of Somerset, who also redesigned the deer park. He bequeathed it to his niece Elizabeth who took it by marriage to the Bruce family. The Bruces, earls of Elgin and Ailesbury, rebuilt Tottenham in grand Palladian style in the 1720s, and it remained their seat until 1946. Since then it has been a school, then was empty for several years until it was sold in 2014 into private hands.

the eighteenth-century Tottenham House (photo Murky1)

In 1582, the Earl of Hertford married again, and again secretly. This time it was Lady Frances Howard, daughter of Baron Howard of Effingham. He tried to set her aside in 1595 in order to legitimise his sons from his first marriage to Catherine Grey—and maybe claim their place in the line of succession since Elizabeth I still had not named an heir. Frances Howard died in 1598 and Edward Seymour married Frances Howard…yes, this is confusing. This Frances was daughter of a younger son of the Duke of Norfolk, and widow of a wealthy wine merchant, Henry Pranell. The death of Elizabeth I in 1603 meant it was finally Hertford’s time to shine at court—he and his wife were in great favour with the new sovereigns, James I and Anna of Denmark (despite, or maybe because of, his sons’ potential better claims to the English throne according to the terms of Henry VIII’s will?). He’s sent on diplomatic missions and she forms part of the Queen’s inner circle. In order to reside closer to court, Hertford bought an estate on the coast of Hampshire, Netley Abbey, in 1602. He also maintained a townhouse in London, Hertford House, on Canon Row, in Westminster (where today’s modern police station sits).

Netley Abbey was a Cistercian foundation, built in the 1230s, just outside Southampton. In 1536, it was seized and given to William Paulet, later Marquis of Winchester, who transformed it into a country house. His heirs sold it in 1602 to Hertford, and the Seymours lived here until it passed to the Bruce family as with so much else of the Seymour estates. They sold it right away to the Duke of Beaufort, but it quickly fell into disrepair and was mostly demolished—the remains of the ancient church buildings became a famous ruin. Since 1922 it has been run by the state and is today part of English Heritage.

Netley Abbey, religious buildings converted to a Tudor dwelling (notably the windows) (photo David Mainwood)

When the Earl of Hertford died in 1621 he was buried in the Seymour Chapel in Salisbury Cathedral (other family members were buried in the parish church close to Wulfhall, in Great Bedwyn). His widow maintained her great royal favour and married the King’s cousin, the Duke of Lennox. The eldest son of Catherine Grey, Edward, called Lord Beauchamp once his legitimacy was recognised, had died before his father, as indeed had his own first son, Edward. So the succession passed to the second son, William, 2nd Earl of Hertford.

Trouble seems to follow this family around … so in 1610 when he was 22 years old, and still only the second grandson, William secretly married the one person he really shouldn’t: Lady Arbella Stuart. She was then considered fourth in line to the throne—as a descendant of Margaret Tudor—and had been the subject of plots and counterplots her entire life. William Seymour would himself have been considered seventh in line, so their marriage was a definite challenge to the legitimacy of the succession of James VI of Scotland to the English throne. Both were confined to the Tower of London—they escaped in 1611, though she was recaptured and died four years later in confinement; he fled abroad to the Low Countries.

Lady Arbella Stuart

But by 1616 Seymour was back at court and was knighted—so I guess all was forgiven. In 1621, he succeeded his grandfather as 2nd Earl of Hertford and took up his seat in the House of Lords—he was a continual opponent of his cousin King Charles I until about 1640, when politics got too radical and he was wooed into the royalist camp by means of his elevation in rank to Marquess of Hertford in 1641. During the Civil War he remained a moderate royalist and tried to keep open lines of communication through his brother-in-law, the Earl of Essex, a parliamentary commander. Hertford’s loyalty to the King was proven in the years following Charles I’s captivity—unlike other moderate royalists, he stayed with his cousin until his execution. He then retreated from London and laid low during the Commonwealth. In 1660, the Marquess of Hertford’s loyalty was rewarded and he was restored—finally—to his great-grandfather’s dukedom of Somerset. But his joy was extremely brief, enjoying the title for only a month before he died in October.

William Seymour, Marquess of Hertford, later Duke of Somerset

Another royalist commander in the Civil War was Francis Seymour, the 1st Marquess of Hertford’s younger brother, who was created Baron Seymour of Trowbridge (Wiltshire) in 1641. Like his older brother, he too had not always been a supporter of the King: elected as a Member of Parliament for Wiltshire in 1621, he was consistently opposed to the King’s plans to raise money for foreign wars. His seat in Parliament represented the Wiltshire town of Marlborough where he acquired Marlborough Castle, an old Norman motte and bailey that had been used for centuries as a dower property for English queens, but had been a ruin since about 1400. Francis built a new house here, which was later replaced by a larger building (1680s) by the 6th Duke of Somerset. By the late eighteenth century Marlborough Castle had been sold and became the Castle Inn with a prominent gentleman’s club; by the 1840s, this became the nucleus of the new Marlborough College, which it still is today.

Marlborough House, and the ancient mound, 1720s

The 2nd Duke of Somerset’s eldest sons had died in their twenties; the third, Henry, Lord Beauchamp, spent several months in the Tower (now a pretty familiar place for the Seymours) in 1651, and died only a few years later, meaning the succession in late 1660 passed to the restored Duke’s grandson, William, who was only eight (though his birth date seems to vary between 1650 and 1654). The new 3rd Duke was looked after by his mother, the very intelligent Mary Capell—later more famous as the 1st Duchess of Beaufort. This is where matters could be confusing, as the Beaufort surname was Somerset, and their ancestral title had been Duke of Somerset, as seen in their own separate blog. So in this case her new surname was Somerset, while her son’s title was Somerset.

William, 3rd Duke of Somerset, studio of Peter Lely

Little William died in 1671, about twenty, and the succession passed to his uncle John, 4th Duke of Somerset—himself only about 25, but already the black sheep of the family, with a mountain of debts. His situation was not improved by the fact that most of the Seymour lands were not specifically entailed with the titles, so although he became a duke, his niece Elizabeth (the 3rd Duke’s little sister), inherited most of the estates: Wulfhall, Tottenham and Savernake Forest in Wiltshire; Hatch Beauchamp in Somerset, and, technically, the claim to the throne of England, by now fairly distant and forgotten. The 4th Duke died three years later in 1675, and a year later Elizabeth married Thomas Bruce, Lord Kinloss, son of the Earl of Ailesbury—his family were descended from the royal house of Bruce in Scotland, and in some minds, passed along the Grey-Seymour claim to the English throne to their descendants (today it is Teresa Freeman-Grenville, 13th Lady Kinloss).

Elizabeth, Countess of Ailesbury, heiress of the Seymour estates

The new Duke of Somerset in 1675 was thus a cousin, Francis Seymour, 3rd Baron Seymour of Trowbridge, of Marlborough Castle. But the 5th Duke too had a very short tenure, and was killed, aged 20, on the Ligurian Coast, where he duelled with a man whose wife he had insulted. The succession passed to his brother Charles, who in remarkable contrast, enjoyed a long and prosperous life. So enamoured was he with his semi-royal descent and so passionate about the details of court etiquette, that he gained the nickname ‘the Proud Duke’. But since the Seymour inheritance had passed to the Bruce family, he had to marry well, and marry well he did: Lady Elizabeth Percy was the heiress of the vast fortune of the earls of Northumberland, one of the oldest and grandest noble families in all of England. Though she was only fifteen, this was already her third marriage! Her father having died when she was three, Elizabeth was already owner of Alnwick Castle in Northumberland, Petworth Castle in Sussex, Syon House outside of London, and a number of other castles and properties in Cumberland and Yorkshire. A separate blog about the Percys of Northumberland will look more closely at these estates.

Charles, 6th Duke of Somerset
Elizabeth Percy, Duchess of Somerset

Immediately, the 6th Duke’s career took off as a member of the household of Charles II—but he fell from favour under James II and was dismissed as a Lord of Bedchamber in 1687. He spent the next few years rebuilding Petworth into a monumental ducal palace, in French château style, worthy of the double dynastic identity of Seymours and Percys (as an aside, his marriage contract said he was to change his name to Percy, but he never did). It was the Duchess of Somerset who helped restore her husband’s position at court, as a favourite of Queen Anne. The Duke became Anne’s Master of the Horse in 1702, and his wife eventually replaced the Duchess of Marlborough as Mistress of the Robes and chief confidante. Their proximity to the Queen played a key role at the very end of her life when she began to waver on her commitment to the Hanoverian Succession (perhaps preferring to atone for supporting the rebellion against her father back in 1689); Somerset and other key peers kept her on target. Under George I, the Duke at first retained his post of Master of the Horse, but was dismissed in 1715, and retired to private life. Elizabeth Percy died in 1722, and after a strange unrequited love affair with the Duchess of Marlborough, Somerset married the much younger Lady Charlotte Finch. He died over two decades later in 1748 at his beloved Petworth.

Petworth, Sussex, as it looked in about 1700

There was only one surviving son, Algernon (a traditional Percy name), who had had a fairly successful career under his courtesy title, ‘Earl of Hertford’. After 1722, he became Baron Percy, as his mother’s heir. He held a succession of administrative posts, from governor of Tynemouth Castle in Northumberland in 1711 to governor of Minorca, 1727, and of Guernsey, 1742. He was also Lord Lieutenant of Sussex as heir apparent to Petworth. But when he succeeded as 7th Duke of Somerset in 1748, he had already lost his own son, George, Lord Beauchamp, and disliked the idea of his estates passing to a very distant Seymour cousin. So in 1749 there was an extraordinary set of titles created for him by George II designed to favour two different heirs. The Duke was created Earl of Northumberland with a special remainder for his daughter Elizabeth and her husband Hugh Smithson (who changed his name to Percy, and ultimately became 1st Duke of Northumberland). He was also created Earl of Egremont, named for the Percy estates in Cumberland, with a special remainder for his sister’s son, Charles Wyndham—the Wyndhams inherited Petworth and they still live there today. The 7th Duke of Somerset died only one year later in 1750.

Algernon Seymour, Earl of Hertford, later 7th Duke of Somerset
Elizabeth Seymour as Baroness Percy (with peeress’s bonnet), later 1st Duchess of Northumberland

So once again, the next duke of Somerset inherited the title but very little else.

In order to find the 8th Duke of Somerset, we need to jump all the way back to the mid-sixteenth century and to the younger of the two disinherited sons of the 1st Duke: Sir Edward Seymour, Lord of Berry Pomeroy. The castle of Berry Pomeroy, near Totnes in south Devon, was built on an outcrop overlooking a narrow valley by the Pomeroy family in the late fifteenth century (on the site of a much older manor). That family fell onto hard times and sold the manor and castle to Lord Protector Edward Seymour in 1547. His son Edward, disinherited from the Wiltshire estates, was given this instead; he built a new Tudor mansion on the site in the 1560s—huge, with four storeys and dozens of rooms. In 1583, Elizabeth I named him High Sheriff of Devon thus more firmly establishing his branch of the family in the southwest of England. His son Edward was then given the rank of baronet in 1611 by King James. The 2nd baronet (another Edward) was the governor of Dartmouth (the main port of south Devon) and as a royalist, was imprisoned in London during the Civil War. The house at Berry Pomeroy was abandoned and fell into ruin—mostly demolished in the 1690s. Yet it was given a new lease on life in the more romantic age of the early nineteenth century, when Regency era tourists developed a passion for ancient ruins. Numerous engravings and paintings followed, and gothic novels set in the castle, and in 1830—seeing a good thing—the Seymours engaged in one of the first examples of ‘heritage conservation’, hoping to draw more tourists and earn some money in local hotels and pubs.

the gatehouse and Tudor mansion of Berry Pomeroy, Devon (photo Chris Gunns)
an etching of Berry Pomeroy from 1822

The reason for the house’s abandonment was the successful political career of the 4th Baronet, Edward Seymour, who wished to live closer to London once he became Speaker of the House of Commons in 1673, and Treasurer of the Navy. He based himself at Bradley House on western edge of Wiltshire near the border with Somerset, not far from the more famous country houses of Stourhead and Longleat. The village is called Maiden Bradley and was said to have taken this name from a daughter (a ‘maiden’) of an official of King Henry II who suffered from leprosy and founded a hospital in the village of Bradley in 1164. This later became an Augustinian priory, and when the priories were dissolved, this one was given to Edward Seymour in the 1530s, then passed to his eldest sons of the Berry Pomeroy line. A new house was built in the 1690s (it is said using materials from Pomeroy). It thus became the ducal seat when this branch succeeded in the 1750s, and remains so today. Much of it was dismantled in the 1820s, leaving just one wing. It remains mostly shut for visitors.

Bradley House, Maiden Bradley, with neighbouring All Saints Church (photo Somerset Estates)

The 4th Baronet’s career continued to rise—in the House of Commons he led a powerful faction (then developing into the Tory Party) that opposed the exclusion of James, Duke of York, from succeeding to the throne; yet he was also one of the first to abandon James in November 1688 and declare for William of Orange in his invasion of England—at Brixham in Devon, quite close to Berry Pomeroy. After he retired from Parliament, he was given the prominent court position of Comptroller of the Royal Household by Queen Anne in 1702.

Sir Edward Seymour, 4th Baronet of Berry Pomeroy, Speaker of the Commons

Sir Edward Seymour married twice—his second wife was a Popham, co-heiress of even more estates in Wiltshire (Littlecote); and his son by his first marriage married a Popham too, to secure the inheritance—as indeed did a younger grandson, to be sure (ultimately founding a separate line, of Knoyle House, Wiltshire; extinct in 1888). The oldest grandson, rather remarkably, succeeded his very distant cousin in 1750 to the Dukedom of Somerset, so we’ll follow his line below. His uncles, the two sons of the 4th Baronet’s second marriage, instead picked up the succession of another gentry family, the Conways of Warwickshire (with the very brief title, earl of Conway), who also had significant lands in Ireland—a factor which shaped their political fortunes. The elder of these, Popham Seymour-Conway, was killed in a duel in 1699, leaving the estates to his brother, Francis, who was created Baron Conway of Ragley in 1703—but also Baron Conway of Killultagh (Antrim) in 1712, ensuring he had a voice in both English and Irish parliaments. He was also given a seat on the Irish Privy Council. His two sons founded the junior branch of the House of Seymour, the Seymour-Conways. The younger of these, Henry, was a politician and soldier, holding the post of Chief Secretary for Ireland, 1755-57, and Speaker of the House of Commons, 1765-68, and rising in the army to Commander in Chief of the Forces, 1782-93. The older brother, Francis Seymour-Conway, was restored to the old earldom of Hertford, 1750—the same year as his cousin’s succession to the dukedom of Somerset—and was sent to Ireland as its viceroy in 1765-66, then returned to England to serve as Lord Chamberlain at court for nearly twenty years. At the end of his life he was raised a rank to Marquess of Hertford (1793).

Francis Seymour-Conway, 1st Marquess of Hertford

Today’s Marquess of Hertford is the 9th (Harry Seymour—they dropped Conway from the name in 1870—born in 1958). The other main legacy of the Marquesses of Hertford—incidentally a much wealthier and much more aristocratic family than their senior cousins the dukes of Somerset—is the splendid Wallace Collection in London, based in Hertford House and housing artworks amassed mostly by the 3rd and 4th marquesses and willed to the latter’s illegitimate son, Richard Wallace, then to the nation in 1897.

Hertford House on Manchester Square, London–today’s Wallace Collection

Ragley Hall, west of Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwickshire, was built by the Earl of Conway in 1680. It has remained the seat of the Seymour-Conway family since then; in the 1950s it was refurbished and opened to the public. In the 1750s, the family bought a second seat, Sudbourne Hall in Suffolk. Richard Wallace purchased it from the Marquess of Hertford in 1871, then sold it in 1884—it passed through various hands until it was demolished in 1953.

Ragley Hall, Warwickshire (photo DeFacto)

Returning to the main line of the Seymours, who seem to be quite good at keeping their line going (and the ducal title), when other similar clans did not, we see yet another Edward Seymour becoming 8th Duke of Somerset in 1750 (having been merely a baronet). He inherited none of the vast estates, now given to the Smithsons and the Wyndhams, and died only seven years later.

The 9th Duke of Somerset, also Edward—about whom there seems to be nothing to say—died unmarried in 1792, so the titles passed to his brother Webb (his mother’s maiden name), the 10th Duke—but only from January 1792 to December 1793 (at nearly 80). His son Edward Adolphus, the 11th Duke, formally changed the spelling of his surname to St Maur (pronounced ‘seemer’), believing it to reflect the original spelling, and picking up on the air of the neogothic and romantic love of all things medieval—it was he who commissioned the restoration (and marketing) of Berry Pomeroy as a tourist attraction in the 1830s.

Edward St Maur, 11th Duke of Somerset

The 11th Duke moved his seat closer to the ruin in Devon by acquiring a new residence, Stover House, in Teigngrace, near Newton Abbot. Purchased in 1829, the Georgian mansion had been built by the Templer family in the 1770s (originally merchants from Exeter). They had also constructed a nearby church and the Stover Canal. The Duke of Somerset added a large porte-cochère, or covered gateway for coaches, a clock house and stables. He was a scholar, a mathematician and President of the Royal Institution, 1826-42. In 1808 he purchased a London townhouse on Park Lane in Mayfair, which he named Somerset House, despite there already being a more famous building of this name (see above). He married Lady Charlotte Hamilton an heiress of the 9th Duke of Hamilton, and filled Stover House with her renowned art collection.

Stover House, Devon

The 11th Duke’s son Edward Augustus became 12th Duke in 1855. As a younger man, he had married beneath his station, to Georgiana Sheridan, granddaughter of the playwright, and a famous society beauty. As heir he held various posts in the Whig governments of the 1830s-40s, then as Duke he served as First Lord of the Admiralty, 1859-66. He was also honoured with a new title, Earl St Maur, of Berry Pomeroy, in 1863—this was done to ensure his son had a proper courtesy title as the son of a duke (since the earldom of Hertford had not passed from the 7th to the 8th Duke back in 1750). His son Edward Augustus (but known as Ferdinand) did use this as his courtesy title, but was also created ‘Baron Seymour’ in a writ of acceleration (also 1863) to allow him to take up his seat in the House of Lords. He led a fairly romantic and wild life as a soldier in India and in Italy, where he became the subject of a scandalous trial where he was accused of horsewhipping a fellow soldier. Some gossipy sources say he went crazy, or that he converted to Islam. Earl St Maur may or may not have secretly married in Tangier in about 1862, then died in England in 1869 after a botched operation, leaving an illegitimate son, Harold St Maur. A younger son, also called Edward, was a diplomat, and was killed by a bear in India in 1865.

the 12th Duke of Somerset in Vanity Fair

The 12th Duke of Somerset, now heirless, despised his brothers who had so looked down on his wife socially, so he arranged to pass Stover House and its art collection to his illegitimate grandson, Harold, while the rest of the inheritance was divided amongst his daughters (for example, one of the daughters inherited Somerset House on Park Lane, which she soon sold—today the site is occupied by the Marriott Hotel Park Lane). When the Duke died in 1885, Harold did make an attempt to claim the dukedom, but failed (and tried again in 1923, again with no success). Stover House has been leased to a school since 1932.

So the 13th Duke of Somerset, Archibald, moved back to Maiden Bradley, now stripped of all its contents. He died unmarried a few years later and passed the titles to a third brother, Algernon, who died three years later. The Seymours/St Maurs certainly go through dukes quickly! The last duke of this line was Algernon, 15th Duke of Somerset, who lived quietly at Bradley House and died in 1923. The succession jumped once more across several generations of male-line kinship, to Col. Edward Seymour (and the more familiar surname was resumed).

the newly minted 16th Duke of Somerset in 1925

Col. Edward Seymour was the great-great-grandson of Lord Francis Seymour, Dean of Wells Cathedral and Chaplain to George II, the third son of the 8th Duke of Somerset. The new 16th Duke of Somerset had been a career soldier, in army ordnance. It took two years for the House of Lords to give full approval to his succession to the ducal title (disputed by the Marquess of Hertford), and he died a few years later, in 1931. His son, Evelyn, though by no means one of the great landowners of Britain like his fellow dukes, was nonetheless honoured with the position of carrying the sceptre at the coronation of George VI in 1937, and appointed to one of his family’s longstanding posts, Lord Lieutenant of Wiltshire, 1942-1950. Like his father he had a long military career, serving in the Boer War, World War I and World War II. His son Percy, the 18th Duke from 1954, had also been a soldier, with service in Asia; when he died his title passed to his son John (we seem finally to have run out of Edwards), who worked as a chartered surveyor in the 1970s-80s, then sat in the lords as Duke from 1984 until the hereditary peerage was abolished; he was then selected as one of the elected peers in 2014. His heir is Sebastian, Lord Seymour. There may no longer be a Seymour of Wolf Hall, but the Wiltshire hills at Maiden Bradley are still home to this amazing survivor of a ducal dynasty.

the 18th Duke of Somerset at Bradley House (photo Allen Warren)

Il Gattopardo: The Real Leopard, Prince of Lampedusa

The new Netflix series Il Gattopardo (‘The Leopard’) is the third adaptation of the celebrated novel by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa. Published in 1958, it was first a hugely successful film by Visconti in 1963, then a BBC radio drama in 2008. Telling the story of a powerful landowner from the old aristocracy of Sicily dealing with the changes brought about by the Risorgimento of the 1860s—the unification of Italy—the historical novel is considered one of the very best of its genre. What makes it particularly interesting for a historian or a sociologist (or a historical sociologist) is that the author was himself a prince, and modelled the main character (the ‘Prince of Salina’) after one of his own ancestors, either his maternal great-grandfather, Alessandro Filangieri, Prince of Cutò, or his paternal grandfather, Giulio Tomasi, Prince of Lampedusa. It is therefore potentially full of real insights (or potentially full of falsehoods or ‘desired truths’ … one can never be certain) from a person who grew up within the social caste under examination—in a similar way that Julian Fellowes is able to write about his own class in Gosford Park or Downton Abbey.

Giulio Tomasi, Prince of Lampedusa, author of ‘Il Gattopardo’

There are several characteristics that are striking about the Sicilian high aristocracy and make them different to other dukes and princes in this blogsite. For starters, most of them do not have a particle (a ‘de’ or a ‘von’) to show they are nobly born—their surname is sufficient; in the case of Lampedusa, it is Tomasi. Secondly, their numbers are inflated, with over one hundred princely titles, meaning that the power of that title is somewhat diluted. Yet thirdly, they were actually incredibly powerful as landowners and political players well into the modern era for the simple fact that for much of its history, Sicily was governed from afar and its magnates were left to mostly manage their own affairs. This is in fact the major crisis facing the Prince of Salina in the novel. From the early fifteenth century, Sicily was ruled from afar, either from the Kingdom of Aragon, then after 1734 by a new regime based in Naples, the Bourbons. When, in the Netflix series, the Prince of Salina is described as a ‘Bourbon prince’ it is a bit misleading, since the Sicilian aristocracy only tolerated their Bourbon kings as long as they stayed far away on the mainland and left their local autonomy untouched. This ‘understanding’ was tested by events during the revolutionary era at the very end of the eighteenth century when the royal family had to flee Naples and took refuge in their second capital in Sicily, and tested again when Sicily erupted in revolution again in 1848 and briefly deposed the Bourbons. Still, the princes saw it in their best interests to maintain the status quo, and to not join in the nationalist movement sweeping the Italian peninsula at the end of the 1850s, which planned to join together the multiple duchies and principalities into one unified—and politically liberal—Kingdom of Italy.

The Kingdom of the Two Sicilies in 1850

By this point, most of the oldest Sicilian noble families knew they could weather the storm—though they didn’t have a ‘de’ or a ‘von’ like other princely families, a name like Lanza or a Filangieri drew power from their ancientness, going all the back to the Norman conquest of this island in the eleventh century. The Tomasi were different: their position as magnates only dated back to the late sixteenth century (though see below for grander claims). But they cleverly hitched their star to the heritage of one of these oldest families, the Chiaromonte—a literal translation from the French ‘Clermont’—who arrived with other Normans and held the highest offices in the Kingdom for centuries. Eufemia Chiaromonte inherited the lordship of Montechiaro (a reversal of her surname), and in about 1408 took it in marriage to the Caro family. The Castle of Montechiaro is perched on a cliff high above the sea on the south coast of Sicily, southeast of the provincial capital of Agrigento. Built in the 1350s, it was an important defensive structure against raids by pirates from the North African coast, also known as the ‘Barbary Pirates’, who frequently raided this coast to capture slaves.

Montechiaro Castle

At some point, the Caro family were also created barons of Lampedusa, an island about 200 km off the southern coast of Sicily—in fact closer to the coast of Tunisia (about 100 km). It was considered to be a sovereign lordship, sort of like the island of Malta, 175 km to the east, which probably was the reason it was chosen later for the Tomasi family’s princely title. The lordship included the nearby smaller island of Linosa, with its distinctive volcanic peaks. Both islands are part of the Pelagian Islands, settled and fought over since antiquity by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Saracens, Knights Hospitaler and so on. The kings of Sicily entrusted the lordship to local baronial families to try to ensure their overlordship over these strategic stopping points in Mediterranean traffic. But they had little other value—there was little water and were mostly rocky and infertile. Sometimes the island had residents, and sometimes not. In 1553, for example, pirates under the command of the Ottoman Empire carried off 1,000 people into slavery. Just over a decade later, Lampedusa was a useful stopping off point for the Spanish navy on its way to relieve Malta from a besieging Ottoman fleet.

the rocky cliffs of Lampedusa (photo Jeffrey Sciberras)

In 1583, the heiress of both Lampedusa and Montechiaro lordships, Francesca Caro, married Mario Tomasi, a captain in the Sicilian army based in the nearby town of Licata. His father, Giovanni, was said to be from Campania on the mainland, while his mother was from the Roman nobility. Much grander claims have been put forward by various genealogists, starting in the seventeenth century (and continuing in the present), to connect this family to the other branches called Tomasi or Tommasi all over Italy, and also to a family called the Leopardi—which makes a nice connection to the title of the novel and its fictional prince, ‘the Leopard’. There are stories about a certain Thomas Leopardi, a Byzantine soldier in the sixth century who descended from Licinius ‘the Leopard’, a grandson of Emperor Constantine. His sons moved to Ancona in central Italy and took the name Tomasi. From here various branches spread all over the peninsula, from Verona to Siena to Capua. One family who stayed in the area of Ancona (the Marche), seem to have assumed the title ‘Prince Tomassini’, or Tomassini-Leopardi, and put forward claims in the later twentieth century to be the ‘true heirs’ to the Byzantine Empire. Let’s take that with a grain of salt. But the Tomasi di Lampedusa family of Sicily did use a leopard on their coat of arms—some sources say it is a serval, a smaller cat from North Africa, but this is probably a reference to the fact that a gattopardo is a serval, and literary critics have suggested that Tomasi chose this name to represent a more local cat, one that was being hunted to extinction in the nineteenth century, like the protagonist of his novel.

Coat of arms of the Tomasi di Lampedusa family–though it is described as a gold leopard or lion on blue, both examples I’ve seen online show it this way.

The family rapidly expanded their power in southern Sicily in the seventeenth century, and if they didn’t take on a mantle of ‘Byzantinism’, they certainly became known for their extreme piety and devotion to the Catholic Church, producing a ‘Holy Duke’, a ‘Holy Prince’, a venerable nun and a canonised cardinal. The piety of the book Il Gattopardo and the film and television series clearly reflects this same strong piety in the family two centuries later.

a 18th-century painting of all the saints, priests and nuns of the Tomasi family

This started with Mario and Francesca’s twin grandsons, Carlo and Giulio, born in 1614, the year their father, Ferdinando Tomasi, was formally invested with the lordships of Montechiaro and Lampedusa. The elder twin founded a new town, Palma, slightly inland from the old fortress, on the site of an ancient Greek settlement. In 1637, he obtained full governing powers over the town from the King of Spain (Philip IV, who was also King of Sicily), and a year later was created Duke of Palma. The new town, laid out on an orthogonal plan, was situated in a green valley watered by a river that emptied out into the sea at a newly built marina. It was constructed by the twins and their uncle Mario, an officer of the Catholic Church in Sicily and governor of the nearby town of Licata. Its main focus point was a new church, Santa Rosario, and a new Benedictine abbey, which incorporated the ducal palace in Palma. This was replaced with another palace in the 1660s—after centuries of neglect, it was recently restored, and though quite plain on the outside, has preserved wonderful wooden ceilings with dynastic symbols and heraldry.

The Benedictine Monastery in Palma (photo Archenzo)
the illuminated Ducal Palace, Palma
the restored ceiling in the Palazzo Ducale

But just two years later, Duke Carlo retreated from the world and became a Theatine monk, ceding his new title to his twin brother Giulio. That same year, the latter married Rosalia Traina, heiress of the barony of la Torretta, a small village on a mountain built around a ‘little tower’ overlooking Palermo. Its castle had been recently rebuilt in the 1590s and was later expanded into a baroque palazzo. This was ‘lost’ in 1954—I can’t find anything more about this online. Alongside several other lordships, Donna Rosalia’s inheritance placed the Tomasi family at the top rank of Sicilian landowners. Torretta brought in income from its olive groves, but more importantly, was a base of operations for involvement in national politics in the Sicilian capital, Palermo.

some of the remaining castle at Torretta

Duke Giulio’s civic and political activities had mostly been confined to Palma’s nearest large town, Licata, but it is clear he now moved in higher circles, and in 1667 the King of Spain (now Carlos II) created him a Knight of the Order of Santiago and 1st Prince of Lampedusa. The Tomasi family had now fully arrived.

Both Giulio and Rosalia were known for their piety—he’s nicknamed ‘il Duca Santo’. After they had six children, they agreed to live together chastely. But in about 1660, obtained permission from the Pope to formally separate; he retired to a monastery like his brother, while his wife and four daughters retreated the new cloistered Benedictine monastery of Palma: his wife as ‘Suor Maria Seppellita’, his eldest daughter Francesca as its abbess, and Isabella as ‘Suor Maria Crocifissa’. The latter became known for her extreme devotion to penance and suffering, and for a letter dictated to her in her cell by Satan himself in 1676, written in demonic language and still undeciphered, despite recent attempts using decryption and AI software. Sister Maria of the Crucifixion is known as ‘Blessed Corbera’ in Il Gattopardo (Corbera being the surname of the fictional family of the Prince of Salina). Shortly after her death in 1699, the Bishop of Agrigento ordered a hagiographic biography to be written and requested the opening of a case for her beatification, but she only got as far as being declared ‘venerable’ in 1787.

the mystic Suor Maria Crucifissa

It was her sibling, the eldest son Giuseppe Tomasi, who made it fully to sainthood. He renounced his claims to the succession in 1665 and entered the Theatine Order as his uncle had done. This order, founded as part of the wave of Catholic reforms in the sixteenth century, was devoted to simple living and to clerical reform. Giuseppe moved to Rome where he became an expert at deciphering, editing and publishing ancient liturgical texts, some in Hebrew, some in Aramaic, or other languages (some called him the ‘Prince of Roman Liturgists’). At the start of the eighteenth century, he became particularly close to a new pope, Clement XI, who named him ‘examiner’ of bishops and abbots (to satisfy his zeal for reform), and also member of a number of theological bodies in Rome. The Pope made him a cardinal in May 1712, but Giovanni died at the start of the new year. He was beatified about a century later, and finally was canonised as a saint in 1986.

Cardinal Giuseppe Maria Tomasi

This saint’s secular younger brother, Ferdinando, 2nd Prince of Lampedusa, was no less holy, and, similar to his father, earned the nickname ‘il Principe Santo’. Though it hardly seems he had the time: he married the daughter of another princely family when he was only 18 (and his wife, Melchiorra Naselli, only 15), had a son and died three years later in 1672, as did his young wife.

Young Giulio II, 3rd Prince of Lampedusa, 4th Duke of Palma, Baron of Montechiaro and Torretta, must have been raised by his maternal family, the Nasellis, since all of his paternal family lived cloistered or in Rome. But he too had a very short life. He married another Naselli (Anna Maria), then died age 26 in 1698, leaving a one-year-old child, Francesco II, 4th Prince of Lampedusa. The Naselli family, princes of Aragona (near Agrigento) since 1625, and descended from kings themselves (or so they claimed), undoubtedly helped solidify the young prince’s ties with the distant Spanish monarch in Madrid: in 1724 he was created a Grandee of Spain, and he transferred much of his activities to Palermo, taking his turn, for example, holding the yearlong offices of Captain of Justice and Praetor. He served as president of the confraternity devoted to the rehabilitation of former slaves, re-captured from the Turks, and as royal vicar appointed to deal with the pestilence in Messina in 1743. He twice was selected for the Deputation of the Kingdom of Sicily (a body like the Sicilian Parliament, but meeting more frequently to carry out functions of governing), in 1732 and 1754, and that latter year was appointed to a senior post in the management of the royal patrimony in Sicily. By this point, the royal dynasty had changed, the Bourbons having taken over from the Habsburgs in 1734. But it is interesting to note—though this should be confirmed—that Prince Ferdinando in 1737 was named Gentleman of the Chamber to the Emperor Charles VI, whose Austrian forces had been chased from Sicily a few years earlier. Is this an error in the genealogies, or was the Prince perhaps playing a double game in case the Habsburgs were restored (Sicily having changed hands three times in the previous three decades)?

The 4th Prince also connected himself more closely with the aristocracy of Palermo though successive marriages to two princesses of the House of Valguarnera (remember that name for later). A palace was built, fairly modest and on a narrow street in the inner city close to the port, so there’s no grand vista images to look at. It housed the family during the winter months for the next two centuries, until it was largely destroyed by Allied bombs in 1943. In 2011 the ruined Palazzo Lampedusa was bought by developers and restored for use as Air B&B apartments—which looks spectacular.

the ruins of the old Palazzo Lampedusa in Palermo, before restoration (photo Jeff Kerwin)
the new Palazzo Lampedusa, ready for Air B&B

Unlike his father and grandfather, the 4th Prince of Lampedusa lived to the ripe old age of 78. When he died in 1775, his estates and titles passed to his son Giuseppe Maria. Like his father, he served in a number of administrative and charitable capacities in Palermo. He also was appointed at one point as ‘ambassador’ from the city of Palermo to the royal court in Naples—which underlines how very isolated Sicily was from its royal family, who maintained a completely separate life in Naples (the King even had two regnal numbers: he was Ferdinand IV in Naples, but only Ferdinand III in Sicily). The 5th Prince of Lampedusa was also Intendant General of the Army of Sicily, 1762, a prominent position, but also lucrative as it would have been accompanied by numerous kickbacks for arranging contracts with suppliers of uniforms, food, gunpowder and so on. The ‘Leopard’ may have protested about the corruption of non-noble administrators like the Mayor of Donnafugata, but in this era, the aristocracy was very much involved as well.

The 5th Prince died in 1792, just before the outbreak of revolution rocked the kingdoms of Naples and Sicily. The 6th Prince, Giulio III, had already filled the same positions as his father and grandfather—head of charitable confraternities, member of the city’s senate, and deputy of the Kingdom—but was also given the title Gentleman of the Chamber of the King of Naples & Sicily. In all the courts of Europe, this title was given as an honour to senior noblemen and did not necessarily mean he attended court personally in far-off Naples. Then in December 1798, the royal family came to him, driven out of Naples by an invading French army (which set up a republic); they fled to Palermo where they resided for a few months, returned to the mainland, then were forced back to Sicily once more in 1806, this time by a more permanent French occupation. During this time, the Prince of Lampedusa was Praetor of the city of Palermo, so would have had certain hosting duties, and he was rewarded with a knighthood in the Order of San Gennaro (the senior chivalric order for the Kingdom of Naples). He died in 1812 before the Bourbons left Palermo, so it was his son who took part in the brief revolution of Sicily itself, that same year, when the King was forced to grant a constitution; Giuseppe, 7th Prince of Lampedusa, was named a peer in Parliament’s new upper house (for his duchy of Palma). But this was short-lived, and after Ferdinand was restored to his throne in Naples, he created a new unified Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, nullifying any political concessions he’d given the Sicilians. A bit of a kick in the teeth to people who had saved his skin twice in the previous fifteen years.

Prince Giuseppe made another good marriage for the family, to Princess Angela Filangieri, daughter of the 6th Prince of Cutò. Her family was much grander, with generals and governors across the centuries; her father was a prominent commander in the Neapolitan army and Royal Lieutenant-General (aka viceroy) of Sicily, 1803-06, a position held later by her brother Niccolo, 1816-17 and 1821-22. Here enters another major setting for Il Gattopardo, in Angela’s family’s country estate: the Palazzo Filangieri-Cutò, in the village of Santa Margherita di Belice, about 60 km southwest of Palermo in the interior of the western corner of the island of Sicily. Originally built by the (actual) Corbera family in the late seventeenth century, it passed to the Filangieri family in the eighteenth century. It was a vast palace, large enough to host Queen Carolina for several months of her exile (1812-13), and was a place the author of Il Gattopardo spent much of his youth, so is the inspiration for the fictional Donnafugata. It was in fact used as such for the Visconti film of 1963, but was almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake in 1968. Only a shell remains. In the new television series, the family’s country seat (the town of Palma) is set in Ortigia, the most ancient part of the city of Siracusa on Sicily’s eastern coast, with the ducal palace as the Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco.

Palazzo Filangieri-Cutò as it appears today (photo HaguardDuNord)

When this branch of the Filangieri family became extinct in the early twentieth century, this palazzo passed to one heir, while the Tomasi di Lampedusa family inherited the Palazzo Cutò in Bagheria, which they soon sold in 1923. Bagheria was a fashionable suburb of Palermo, to the east where the hills meet the sea. Several aristocratic villas were built here in the early eighteenth century, including this one by the Naselli family (whom we’ve encountered above), and by the Valguarnera family (also noted above), whose villa was used for the Salina Palace in the new Netflix series (and some of the gardens of the Villa Tasca, closer in to the city). The Palazzo Cutò still exists, but is not quite as glamourous to look at as the Villa Valguarnera—it was purchased by the municipality in 1987 and today houses a museum and library.

Palazzo Cutò in Bagheria

The 7th Prince died in 1831 and was succeeded by his son Giulio Fabrizio, who is the main model for ‘the Leopard’. His wife was indeed named Stella, and he did have numerous daughters, whose names mirror those in the book/films: Concetta, Carolina, Antonia, Chiara, Caterina and Maria Rosa. And although there was no handsome first cousin for one of these princesses to marry, two of his four sons did marry first cousins (one maternal and one paternal). The 8th Prince of Lampedusa was the last to actually own the island of Lampedusa, as it was forcibly sold to the King of Two Sicilies in 1843—the family had tried to re-populate the island in the 1760s, then during the Napoleonic Wars leased it out to the Order of Malta and to the British Navy, though neither of these really developed it either. After Sicily became part of Italy, Lampedusa was used as a penal colony; and in modern times the island has been in the news a lot due to it being so close to Africa and thus the first stop-off point for refugee boats heading towards Europe.

Giulio Fabrizio Tomasi, 8th Prince of Lampedusa, ‘il Gattopardo’

With the money he was given by the King in exchange for the island, Prince Giulio Fabrizio purchased a grander residence in Palermo, the former Palazzo Branciforte, built along the seafront on the old Spanish bastions (which were dismantled in the eighteenth century). Renamed the Palazzo Lampedusa alla Marina, half of this extensive palace complex was sold in 1862, but it was bought back in 1948 by the author of Il Gattopardo after the main Tomasi residence had been destroyed—he brought the family’s art collections and furnishings here, where they remain. Today it is known as the Palazzo Lanza-Tomasi, restored and revived in the later twentieth century by Gioacchino Lanza (see below), and forms part of the elegant waterfront of the city. For the new series, the Palazzo Comitini in Palermo stands in for this palace’s interiors, while the famous ballroom scene was shot in the Grand Plaza Hotel in Rome (whereas the 1960s Visconti movie used the Palazzo Valguarnera Gangi in Palermo, close to the main street of the city, Via Roma, and the famous square ‘Quattro Canti’, where several exterior scenes were filmed).

The Palermo seafront: Palazzo Lampedusa alla Marina (Palazzo Lanza-Tomasi), at far left. I sat in a cafe in front of this building a few years ago eating ice cream, quite unaware I would be writing about it later (photo Dedda71)

In January 1848, Sicily revolted once more against the Bourbons, and an autonomous parliament was again briefly created, with the 8th Prince again getting a peerage in its upper house, until this was brutally supressed in May 1849 by King Ferdinand II (and his general, notably a Filangieri prince, from the Neapolitan branch of the family), who earned his name ‘re bomba’ by ordering bombardment of the Sicilian city of Messina. This is the background for the events of the novel, when, just over a decade later, the liberals of Sicily rose up once more against the Bourbons and in support of an invasion in May 1860 of Giuseppe Garibaldi’s ‘Army of a Thousand’—the Redshirts. By the end of the year, Sicilians had voted to join the Kingdom of Sardinia, which, in the Spring was re-branded the Kingdom of Italy.

Garibaldi and his Redshirts landing at Marsala, Sicily, in May 1860

The ‘Leopard’ of Lampedusa lived another thirty-five years. Not much is known about his actual life, aside from his genuine passion for science, attested by numerous books on physics and astronomy in his library, and the observatory he built at the Villa Lampedusa in the hills north of Palermo (an area fashionable for aristocratic hunting lodges since the eighteenth century). He is portrayed as such in the novel and both adaptations (by the way, Don Fabrizio’s full titles in the book are Prince of Salina, Duke of Querceta, and Marquis of Donnafugata). The observatory is gone, but the villa has been beautifully restored recently as a luxury hotel.

Burt Lancaster as the Prince of Salina in the 1963 Visconti film
Villa Lampedusa, outside Palermo

His eldest son, Giuseppe, was 9th Prince of Lampedusa until 1908, and left several sons, the eldest of whom, another Giulio, was head of the family as the 10th Prince. His wife, Beatrice Mastrogiovanni-Tasca, was one of the co-heiresses of the Filangieri-Cutò estates as noted above. Her sister, Giulia, Countess Trigona, married to the Mayor of Palermo, and occupying the high-profile position in Italy as lady-in-waiting to the Queen, was brutally murdered by a scorned lover in a hotel in Rome in 1911, scandalising high society.

The 10th Prince of Lampedusa stayed out of the spotlight and tended to his agricultural affairs, still quite vast, in the south of Sicily. Though feudalism had ended in the 1840s, he still considered his primary duties to be the welfare of ‘his’ town of Palma di Montechiaro (its name formally changed in the 1860s) and its now ancient convent. It was his brother Pietro who made his name on the world stage. Don Pietro took the title Marchese della Torretta, from the family’s barony in the hills above Palermo. He trained as a diplomat and acted as Head of the Cabinet of the Minister of Foreign Affairs, 1910-14, then was sent as an envoy to Munich in 1915, then to Saint Petersburg in 1917 where he was promoted to full ambassador, a crucial position at such a pivotal time for Russia. In January 1919, Torretta was a member of the Italian delegation sent to the peace talks in Paris, then by the end of the year was appointed ambassador to the newly constituted Austrian Republic. He returned to Italy and was himself for a short time Minister of Foreign Affairs (1921-22). In 1921 he was named a Senator of the Kingdom of Italy, then sent abroad again, as Ambassador to Great Britain, 1922-27. He was pushed out of public affairs, however, by Mussolini at the end of the 1920s, for his liberal views, and only returned to politics after the war, when he acted as President of the Senate, 1945-46. As an old man, he briefly succeeded his nephew as the 12th Prince of Lampedusa, and died in 1962, the last of his family.

Pietro Tomasi, Marchese della Torretta, 4th from the right, with other world leaders at the Paris peace talks, 1919

Back in 1920, Pietro Tomasi had married a retired soprano, Alice Barbi, who in her day had charmed the concert halls of Europe and built up a particular friendship with Brahms. From her first marriage to Baron Boris von Wolff-Stomersee, a Baltic German and official at the Russian court, she had a daughter, Alexandra (known as ‘Licy’). Born in Nice, but raised in St Petersburg, Licy inherited her father’s residence in rural Latvia, Schloss Stomersee: built in the 1830s, and rebuilt in French renaissance style in 1908; today known as Stāmeriena Palace. After a divorcing her first husband, she met and married in 1932 her step-father’s nephew, Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa. They lived together at Stomersee—one of the few Latvian aristocratic estates not nationalised in the 1920s—for a few years in the 1930s when Tomasi was eager to distance himself from Fascists in Italy. The palace later became a state-run agricultural college, abandoned after the fall of communism in the early 1990s, but recently bought, restored, and opened for tourism.

Stāmeriena Palace, Latvia (Schloss Stomersee), prior to restoration (photo Vaido Otsar)

Giuseppe Tomasi, born in 1896, became 11th Prince of Lampedusa, 12th Duke of Palma, and Baron of Montechiaro and Torretta, Grandee of Spain, in 1934. He was a sort of ‘professional intellectual’, publishing a few short stories and pieces of literary criticism. He only wrote one novel, Il Gattopardo, which was rejected several times before it was published shortly after his death in 1957. Politically, he was a monarchist but with liberal leanings; critical of the Italian monarchy and the National Monarchist Party that attempted to restore it after the plebiscite of 1946, and interested in British liberals—whom he saw as less corrupt than his Sicilian countrymen. His wife lived mostly independently, pursuing a career as a psychoanalyst, and they had no children. In 1956, he adopted a member of his literary circle (and a distant cousin), Gioacchino Lanza Branciforte (from the noble house of Lanza encountered above, a son of the Count of Mazzarino), who had his own illustrious career as director of some of Italy’s leading musical establishments, including the opera house of San Carlo in Naples, and as a university professor in Palermo. He inherited the Palazzo Lampedusa alla Marina in 1957 and its collections, and alongside his wife, renovated it and turned it into a museum for the novelist and the Lampedusa family. By some accounts he is reckoned the 14th Duke of Palma (though titles were legally abolished alongside the Italian monarchy in 1946). He died in 2023, and was succeeded by his son Fabrizio Lanza Tomasi (b. 1961) as curator of the legacy of Il Gattopardo.

Giuseppe and Licy at Schloss Stomersee in 1931

The Hills are Alive! Auersperg princes: Lords of Slovenia and Relatives of the Von Trapp Singers

I was recently talking to some students about the character Captain von Trapp in the film ‘The Sound of Music’. Students are always curious how someone from a landlocked country like Austria could be a retired naval commander. We also got to talking about his rank, since he is called a baron in the film (and he is initially planning to marry a baroness). It led to an investigation of the term ‘ritter’, which was actually the real Georg von Trapp’s rank in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, akin to ‘baronet’ in the UK system, that is, a knighthood that is hereditary. So we chatted about rank and its place in aristocratic society and looked into his familial relations to see if he was connected to people of much higher rank at the Viennese court—and indeed, it turns out that he was, though almost entirely through the family of his first wife (the mother of all those singing children), Agathe Whitehead. Further research reveals that this Anglo-Austrian aristocrat was related to several families of princely rank, so is worth a look-in on this blogsite: a first cousin was married to a Prince Bismarck (son of the Iron Chancellor), while one of her aunts was married to the Duke of Ratibor and Prince of Corvey (from the hugely sprawling family of the princes of Hohenlohe), and another aunt was married to the Prince of Auersperg.

Georg and Agathe von Trapp, 1910

It is this last connection, Auersperg, that also allows us to look more closely at the area that was once the Von Trapp stomping grounds: Austria’s seacoast, known as the ‘Austrian Littoral’. Formed in 1849 from the old provinces of Istria, Görz/Gorizia and the city of Trieste, the Littoral is divided today between Italy, Croatia and Slovenia. It was a multi-ethnic area, called the Küstenland in German and Primorska by the Croats and Slovenes (just meaning ‘coastland’ in either language). This is where the Austro-Hungarian Navy was based, with its chief port in Pola (now Pula, Croatia), a naval academy in Fiume (now Rijeka) and shipbuilding facilities in Trieste. This is where most of Captain von Trapp’s wife’s money came from. Further inland was the province of Carniola, now (mostly) the Republic of Slovenia, where the Auersperg family ruled large estates for centuries, fairly independently of imperial rule in far-off Vienna. Their formal title here was Duke of Gottschee, which was the historic name for a small German-speaking enclave in what is now southeastern Slovenia. Since the Second World War, the area has been ‘ethnically cleansed’ and the area re-named Kočevsko (and its main town, Kočevje). The name initially referred to the local fir spruce or hvoja in Slovene.

.

So although the Von Trapps were not dukes or princes, this blog will look at their close cousins, the princes of Auersperg, dukes of Gottschee.

Let’s start though with Agathe Whitehead, the woman who does not appear in ‘The Sound of Music’. Her grandfather, Robert Whitehead, was an English engineer from Bolton who settled in Fiume in the 1850s and developed the first self-propelled torpedo. He soon constructed a large factory building torpedoes and ships for the Austro-Hungarian Navy, a business enterprise continued under his son John. When John died in 1902, most of this fortune passed to Agathe. Robert’s second son, Sir James Whitehead, was a diplomat, who eventually rose to the post of British envoy to the Kingdom of Serbia, 1906-10 (a pretty sensitive time to be in Belgrade); his son Edgar was also famous, a generation later, as Prime Minister of the British colony of Southern Rhodesia, 1958-62 (a pretty sensitive time to be in southern Africa!).

Whitehead torpedo and ship factory Fiume, 1910

In 1911, Agathe married Georg Ritter von Trapp. Though his family originated in Hesse, in central Germany, he had been born in Zara, further down the Adriatic coast, which was briefly part of Italy after World War I so, oddly (considering the plot of ‘The Sound of Music’), he and his family were given Italian citizenship, but in 1947 it became part of Yugoslavia, and is now Zadar in Croatia. His father was also a naval captain, and had been elevated to the lowest rank of the Austrian nobility, ritter. They had a villa in Pola—in the centre of town, today divided into flats. With his marriage, Georg acquired the Whitehead villa in Fiume, built by Agathe’s grandfather on the Adriatic seafront in 1878, across the road from his factory, and a summer residence, Erlhof on Lake Zell in the Alps, south of Salzburg. Erlhof was a very old country house bought by Agathe’s grandmother in 1900—it has been run as a restaurant and hotel since the 1970s.

the Von Trapp Villa in Pola
Villa Whitehead in Fiume
Erlhof

Agathe and the children spend World War I at Erlhof, while Georg became the most successful submarine commander. After 1918, Fiume and Pola became parts of the new Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (after 1929 changed to Yugoslavia), so the von Trapps settled in Klosterneuburg, a suburb of Vienna, where their last child (of seven) was born. That year, five of these children caught scarlet fever, and, in nursing them, so did their mother, and she died of it in September 1922. Georg moved the family in 1924 to a new villa in Aigen, a posh suburb of Salzburg, across the river from the old town, where, in 1926, he hired a young nun as nanny, Maria Agatha Kutschera (whose family was, interestingly in the context of this blog about ethnically blended Austrians, actually Kučera, from Moravia). They married in 1927 and had three more children. In 1935, Georg invested much of his late wife’s fortune in an Austrian bank—it failed and he lost most of his income. This explains in part why the family turned to professional singing. As the political climate in Austria heated up in 1938, the Captain and Maria took their large family on a concert tour to the United States and did not return.

Trapp Villa in Aigen, Salzburg
the Von Trapp Family Singers in 1946 (with Maria, but not Georg)

So let’s return to Agathe Whitehead’s other, non-English, family—and it makes you realise that those children dancing around in drapery in Salzburg were actually very well connected to very aristocratic cousins in Vienna (and does also invite the question of who was the character of Baroness Schraeder modelled on…a mysterious ‘Princess Yvonne’?). Agathe’s mother, married to an Englishman born in Austria, was herself a blend of Austrian and Hungarian nobility. Agathe von Breuner’s father was Count August Johann von Breuner-Enckevoirt, and her mother was Countess Agota Széchenyi de Sárvár-Felsővidék, one of the leading Hungarian magnate families. Both the Breuner and Széchenyi families produced powerful statesmen in the nineteenth century: István Széchenyi was one of the greatest champions of progress in Budapest, as in fact was Agathe’s great-grandfather, Count August von Breuner in Vienna, as a leader of the liberal opposition to the ultra-conservative regime of Prince Metternich in the 1840s. One of the Auersperg princes we will encounter below was a key ally (and in fact his son-in-law). Later in the century, the Breuners became extinct, and their lands and their name passed to a cadet branch of the House of Auersperg.

The family of Count August von Breuner (1834 by Friedrich von Amerling). This portrait is nicely typical of the liberal aristocrat of mid-19th-century Austria, attentive to his children and their education

The Breuner family were minor nobles from Styria (the Austrian province south of Vienna, in the Alps). Different origin stories say they originated here or they migrated here from the Rhineland in the Middle Ages. But they were securely situated in Styria by the 1450s, with the lordships and castles of Stübing and Fladnitz. They split into two branches in the sixteenth century. The senior Styrian branch became counts in 1666 and went extinct in 1827. The junior branch moved to Lower Austria and were given the lordship of Staatz in the region north of Vienna, with a prominent castle on a round hilltop overlooking the plain that leads from Austria into Bohemia; this castle was destroyed in the Thirty Years War—and it remains a ruin today—but by then they had acquired the castle of Asparn, a few miles into the hills to the south, and made it their chief residence. Asparn was a much grander residence, owned for a while by the Habsburgs themselves—today it houses a museum of pre-history and medieval archaeology.

Staatz, Lower Austria
Schloss Asparn

The Breuners were elevated to the rank of baron in 1550, then count in the 1620s. They were prominent in Austrian imperial and provincial government in this century, until the senior line (at Asparn) died out in 1716, and the junior line inherited the properties of the Enckevoirt family and added that name to their own. The most prominent member of the family in this period was Philipp Friedrich, Bishop of Vienna, 1639 to 1669, during which time he rebuilt much of the diocese following the Thirty Years War and in particular re-constructed the grand high altar in St. Stephen’s Church in Vienna.

Philip Friedrich von Breuner, Bishop of Vienna

Other built memorials of the Breuner family included a Palais Breuner in Graz for the senior branch, and a Palais Breuner in Vienna for the junior branch—acquired by Count August in 1853 (formerly the Neupauer Palais, built 1715 for Austria’s Lord High Chamberlain), on Singerstrasse, in the neighbourhood behind the Dom. Their country seat was Schloss Grafenegg in Lower Austria (inherited in 1813), originally built in the fifteenth century, which they rebuilt in the 1840s-50s as one of the best examples of romantic historicism in architecture. The castle, near the city of Krems on the Danube, remains a major tourist attraction and concert venue today. This branch of the family died out in 1894, and the Viennese palace and Grafenegg Castle passed to the co-heiress who had married the Duke of Ratibor-Corvey—they still own both today. The rest of the properties (and the name Breuner, though now with two n’s for some reason) passed to the Auerspergs.

Palais Breuner in Vienna
Schloss Grafenegg

The Auersperg family took their name from a castle with an earlier form Ursperg, which may suggest it was named for the ancient mighty wild oxen, the aurochs, which survived in the wilds of eastern Europe until the end of the Middle Ages. The family coat of arms sports an ox’s head, as do the arms of several other Balkan families or states (like Moldavia).

the early coat of arms of the Auerspergs with its aurochs

The ancient triangular castle on a hilltop (the ‘berg’ or ‘perg’) has three towers, one of which is named the ‘Ox Tower’. The Slovene word for aurochs (or simply ‘aur’ in German) is ‘tur’, and the Slovene name for the castle is Grad Turjak (and the Auersperg family themselves are referred to locally as the Turjaški). The castle was built and rebuilt several times in the Middle Ages before the current mighty structure, from about 1220. Badly damaged in an earthquake of 1511, it was swiftly rebuilt and withstood and assault by Ottoman Turks in 1528.

Auersperg Castle in 1689
Auersperg Castle (Grad Turjak) today

Auersperg Castle dominates the valley of a river that flows north into the provincial capital of Ljubljana, today’s capital of Slovenia, but long known in German as Laibach, in the Austrian duchy of Carniola. This province takes its name from the indigenous ancient people here, the Carni, from which its German name, Krain, derives, though this sounds confusingly like the Slavic word for ‘border’, ‘krajina’, and a borderland indeed it was, between Slavs and later Germanic settlers, and between the Austrian realms and the ever-expanding Ottoman Empire to the southeast. The neighbouring province (and they are usually grouped together) is called the Windisch March, or ‘Slavic Border’ (Germans called Slavs Winds or Wends), which incidentally gave its name to another Austro-Slovene princely family, Windischgraetz, who will have their own blog post.

The Ursperg and later Auersperg family of knights defended this frontier for centuries. In the early Middle Ages they served the dukes of Carinthia (the duchy to the north) as chamberlains and marshals, then the Habsburgs in this same capacity once they took over Carinthia and Carniola in the 1330s. They divided into two main branches in the fifteenth century, with the senior line based in their castles of Schönberg and Seisenberg (today called Šumberk and Žužemberk in Slovene) and raised in rank to imperial baron (freiherr) in 1550. The lovely medieval castle of Seisenberg, on the Krka river southeast of Ljubljana, was rebuilt by the local bishop with seven great towers in the 1520s, then purchased by the Auerspergs in 1538. It became the family’s main residence in this region, and over the centuries they developed a significant ironworks industry here. All the family’s lands in Carniola were seized by the Yugoslav government in 1946, and have not been returned.

Seisenberg in Carniola / Žužemberk in Slovenia

In the sixteenth century the House of Auersperg provided their Habsburg overlords with several able commanders, most famously Herbard VIII and Andreas, the ‘Carniolan Achilles’. Herbard (or Herward) was Military Governor of Carniola and Captain of the Croatian Frontier. He was also a Protestant and one of the leaders in implanting the reformed faith in this corner of the world; still today considered one of the heroes of Croatia and Slovenia. But in 1575 he took on the might of the Ottoman Empire at a battle in Croatia near Bihać (today’s border between Croatia and Bosnia) and was badly defeated—his head was severed and paraded in triumph back in Constantinople. Nearly two decades later, his cousin Andreas returned to this frontier as Commander-in-Chief of the Croatian Frontier and contributed to a significant defeat of the Turks at Sisak (1593), which effectively put a stop to Ottoman expansion over the River Sava—it was a dramatic victory, with the retreating Turks being forced to swim back across the river and many hundreds drowning.

Herward VIII von Auersperg
Andreas, the ‘Achilles’ of Carniola

It is worth noting again that these Auerspergs, like many members of the Austrian nobility, had joined the Protestant faith. Herbard’s father, Trajan, was an early supporter and protected a prominent Lutheran theologian in this region and supported his efforts to create the first translation of the Bible into Slovenian. Other Slovene books were printed here, one of the earliest efforts to bring a Slavic language to an equal footing with German.

The Slovene Bible

In the seventeenth century, most of the Austrian high nobility converted back to Catholicism, and were rewarded by their Habsburg overlords. Two branches were established and raised to the rank of imperial count in 1630. The senior line retained the castle of Auersperg (until 1945) and continue to exist (the ‘comital branch’) today. Auersperg Castle was taken by Yugoslav Partisans in 1943 and badly damaged. Nationalised by the Communist regime that followed, it has only slowly been restored starting in the 1990s.

The junior line consisted of three brothers. The eldest, Wolfgang Engelbert, was a great collector of art and objects in his new grand residence in Ljubljana; he also acquired the County of Gottschee in 1641, the German speaking enclave in the hills of southern Carniola (as noted above) that would become a much more important part of the family’s story later on; its castle was rebuilt in the 1680s, and completely destroyed in World War II. The second brother Herward founded another line of counts (who died out in the early twentieth century); while the youngest brother, Johann Weikhard, founded the princely line that still exists today.

Gottschee Castle in the 1670s (Kočevje, Slovenia)

Johann Weikhard von Auersperg was born in Seisenberg Castle in 1615. He became a personal favourite of Emperor Ferdinand III (only a few years older), and in 1640 was appointed chamberlain and tutor to the Emperor’s son, Ferdinand IV, King of the Romans (the title held by the son and assumed successor of the Holy Roman Emperor). Auersperg was then sent to Westphalia to negotiate the settlement of peace for the Thirty Years War. He was rewarded with lands and elevation to the rank of Prince of the Empire in 1653.

Johann Weikhard 1st Prince of Auersperg

But in order to secure this rank, Johann Weikhard needed to acquire an ‘immediate fief’, a territory subject to no other prince than the emperor, and conveniently there was one available: Tengen (or Thengen) near the western shores of Lake Constance in southern Swabia. It was a very small lordship (about 70 m2), but, recognised by the Emperor as a ‘princely county’ in 1654, it was enough to secure the Auerspergs a seat in the Chamber of Princes in the Imperial Diet. Tengen Castle is on a rocky spur above the town, and was already a ruin—the Auerspergs weren’t planning on moving there anyway, so very far from their centre of operations—and it remains a ruin today.

Tengen Castle in Swabia

But Ferdinand III also rewarded his friend with another extraordinary gift, the Duchy of Münsterberg, in 1654. Münsterberg, even more than Tengen, was a semi-sovereign duchy, one of the many that made up the Duchy of Silesia, part of the Crown of Bohemia (which was by this point also held by the Habsburg emperor). When Silesia was cut off from the Kingdom of Poland in the early fourteenth century, this was one of the many smaller duchies into which it fragmented. Its castle, known today as Ziębica in Polish, was built around this time. The duchy also included the semi-autonomous city of Frankenstein (Ząbkowice). When the last of the original Polish (Piast) royal dukes died out in 1428, the duchy passed through various hands until it was held by the Czech Poděbrady family, 1456-1569. It then was ruled directly by the Habsburgs until it was given to Auersperg. The town of Münsterberg was prosperous and generated healthy revenues for its new dukes, but the ducal seat was at Frankenstein, where the old medieval castle had been given a Renaissance makeover in the 1520s. It was abandoned as a residence in the 1720s, and has been a ruin ever since.

Frankenstein Castle in Silesia (today’s Ząbkowice in Poland)
the new princely arms of the Auerspergs, with the original aurochs quartered with various eagles and lions form Carniola, and in top left the Silesian eagle for the duchy of Münsterberg. The crowned red lion overall is for Gottschee

For a princely residence in Austria itself, the 1st Prince of Auersperg was given the Castle of Wels, in Upper Austria. The castle or burg of the town of Wels, on the river Traun, a tributary of the Danube, was built by the Babenbergs, the first dukes in this region, in the 1220s, then passed with their possessions to the Habsburgs later in that century. Emperor Maximilian I rebuilt it in Gothic style and died here a few years later in 1519. The Auerspergs would hold the castle and lands as a county (referred to as ‘princely county of Wels’ though I’m unsure why since there’s no sovereignty attached to it) until 1865 when they sold it to another family. Since 1937 it has belonged to the city itself and today houses the Wels City Museum.

Burg Wels, Upper Austria

Back home in Ljubljana, to celebrate his dramatic rise to the top of the aristocracy, Prince Johann Weikhard built a huge city palace, next door to one already recently built by his older brother Count Wolfgang Engelbert, in what is now the university district of the old town. The Prince’s Palace (Knežji Dvorec) was badly damaged by an earthquake in 1895 and torn down—in the 1930s, the National Library was built in its place. The Auersperg Palace (aka the Turjaška Palača) still exists, but was sold to the city in 1937 and today houses the City Museum.

The Prince’s Palace, Ljubljana, from an 18th-century map of the city, now demolished
The Auersperg Palace (Turjaška Palača) in Ljubljana today

The 1st Prince of Auersperg continued his rise, and from 1665 to 1669 was the head of the Aulic Council for Emperor Leopold I, essentially ‘prime minister’ of Austria. Once again acting as an international diplomat, he concluded a secret treaty with Louis XIV by which France and Austria would agree to split the Spanish succession once King Carlos II of Spain would die (which was expected to be soon). But enemies back in Vienna accused the Prince of getting too cozy with the Sun King and making secret deals that would benefit himself and his family, so Emperor Leopold sacked him in 1669 and sent him home to his estates in Carniola, where he died nearly a decade later. His older brother died unmarried, so the Prince added the county of Gottschee to his already very large domains in the region.

The descendants of the middle brother, Herward, remained local and retained the hereditary offices of chamberlain and marshal of Carniola. One of these, Count Anton Alexander, became a leader of the liberal nationalist movement of young Austrians in the 1830s-40s, and a supporter of the revival of Slovene identity and folklore. He wrote poetry (in German) of a political and nationalist nature under the pseudonym ‘Anastasius Grün’.

Anastasius Grün (Count Anton Alexander von Auersperg)

The 2nd Prince of Auersperg, Johann Ferdinand, succeeded his father in 1677 and died in 1705, leaving behind only a daughter, so the patrimony passed to his brother, Franz Karl, 3rd Prince, who died less than a decade later. The latter had made more of an impact as a soldier in the last two decades of the seventeenth century, rising to the rank of Artillery General and Governor of Karlstadt (Karlovac) in Croatia. His son, Heinrich Joseph, 4th Prince, returned the family to its favoured position at the Habsburg court that had been lost by his grandfather. He rose to the position of Grand Master of the Court under Emperor Charles VI in the 1730s, then served as Grand Equerry then Grand Chamberlain under Empress Maria Theresa in the 1760s-70s, also acting as governor to the young heir, Archduke Joseph (who became Emperor Joseph II). There were setbacks too: in 1742, Austria lost the province of Silesia to Prussia in the War of Austrian Succession—this meant that the Duchy of Münsterberg was converted from a semi-independent principality into a fief of the Hohenzollerns in Berlin. Eventually, the family sold Münsterberg to the King of Prussia, in 1791, and were compensated by the elevation of the County of Gottschee into a duchy by Emperor Leopold II. This is quite extraordinary—there are no other duchies within the territories of the Austrian Habsburgs (they alone were dukes of Carinthia, Styria, etc), with the exception of those in Silesia, like Münsterberg.

Heinrich Joseph, 4th Prince of Auersperg

Then there were potential gains acquired through matrimony: through his first marriage, in 1719, to a Princess von und zu Liechtenstein, the 4th Prince acquired several properties in Bohemia and Moravia. None of these became central Auersperg residences, and were sold within the next two generations. By his second marriage in 1726, to a Princess von Trautson, he gained a potential great succession in the Tirol, as well as the county of Falkenstein closer to Vienna in Lower Austria. This succession was secured by his son’s marriage to his step-mother’s niece in 1744—resulting in the creation of a junior line, Auersperg-Trautson, to which we’ll return.

The 4th Prince of Auersperg died at the grand old age of 85 in 1783. He left many many children who married into the Austrian and Czech high nobility. Karl Joseph, the 5th Prince, reigned as head of the house until 1800. His younger brother Johann Adam had been raised to the rank of prince on his wedding in 1746 (before this point, only the head of the family was a prince), and acquired a grand palace in Vienna that became the family’s chief residence in the imperial capital. The ‘Rosenkavalier Palace’ or Palais Rofrano had been built in the first decade of the eighteenth century on the western edge of the old city, in a newly developing suburb, Josefstadt (behind what is now the Austrian Parliament building). Johann Adam acquired it in 1777 and it was renamed the Palais Auersperg. Inside, it had a well-known grand hall in which concerts were regularly held: Gluck in the 1760s, and now Mozart and Haydn in the 1770s-80s. The Palace housed the exiled Swedish royal family, 1827-37. During World War II, it was used to hide resistance fighters and today is commemorated as the place where a provisional government committee met to plan the rebirth of postwar Austria. During the war, the Palace had passed to a sister of the Auersperg prince and it is now privately owned, though still used for grand events like balls and concerts.

Palais Auersperg in Vienna

One of the youngest brothers of the 5th Prince, Joseph Franz, entered the church and rose through the ranks to become bishop of Lavant then Gurk (in southern Austria), then Prince-Bishop of Passau in 1783, and finally cardinal, 1789. He was a builder, re-fashioning episcopal residences in all his dioceses, notably the Passau summer residence, Schloss Freudenhain. He was also a passionate follower of Enlightenment reform, and was closely aligned to the movement led by Emperor Joseph II: he supported toleration for Jews, religious reforms against superstition in his diocese, and constructed schools, hospitals and theatres, believing the latter to be morally edifying for his flock.

Joseph Franz, Cardinal-Bishop of Passau
the Auersperg arms on the Cathedral of Passau

The two eldest sons of the 5th Prince of Auersperg divided the succession, with the elder brother, Karl, receiving the princely title and the dukedom of Gottschee, and the younger, Karl, taking on the succession of their mother and step-grandmother and adding their name to his own: Auersperg-Trautson. The Trautson family were an old Austrian noble house who were raised to the rank of Imperial princes in 1711—but there were only two holders of this title and the line became extinct in 1775. Trautson history reaches back to the early Middle Ages when they took possession of important castles that guarded either side of the Brenner Pass, once the dividing point between northern and southern Tirol, but now the frontier between Austria and Italy. For several generations they were hereditary Landmarshalls of the County of Tirol (the presiding officer over the local assembly). Castle Trautson, high above the river Sill, dates back to the 1220s, and was largely destroyed by an air raid in World War II by bombers aiming for the Brenner railway bridge and tunnel that passes directly beneath the castle—but an elegant chapel from the 1680s survived. The ruined castle is still owned by the Auersperg-Trautsons, as is Castle Sprechenstein, on the other side of the pass, now in Italy. It is still private and not open to visitors.

Trautson Castle, in the Brenner Pass, painted in the 19th century
Sprechenstein, South Tirol (now in Italy)

In addition to these Tirolean castles, solitary stone fortresses on rocky outcroppings deep in the Alps, the Trautson inheritance also included a more stylish country house, Schloss Goldegg, west of Vienna in Lower Austria (not far from the famous Melk Monastery). A medieval castle here had been rebuilt and enlarged in the early seventeenth century, then purchased by the Trautsons in 1669, and now passed to the Auerspergs. The senior line of princes retained it as their main country seat in Austria until it was inherited by a daughter in 2015 and passed out of the family.

Schloss Goldegg, Lower Austria

Meanwhile, another house, not far away, has been the seat of the cadet branch of Auersperg-Trautson since they purchased it in 1930: Schloss Wald. It was similarly an old castle expanded in the early modern period, and is still held by the family today. The current head of this branch is Prince Franz Josef (b. 1954) who married Archduchess Maria Constanza in 1994, a granddaughter of Austria’s last emperor.

Schloss Wald

The other main Trautson estate in Lower Austria was the county of Falkenstein and its ruined castle, which was not retained by the Auersperg family since the inheritance was contested by another princely family, the Lambergs (who happened also to be an old Carniola family), so it was sold in 1799. Across the border in Bohemia, the Trautson succession included several properties that were divided between the senior and junior lines. The most esteemed of these, Vlašim (Wlaschim in German), had been favoured by the first Auersperg to acquire it, the 5th Prince, Karl Joseph, and his wife, the heiress Maria Josepha von Trautson. Located in the hills southeast of Prague, the castle dates back to about 1300, but had also been remodelled in about 1600. The Prince and Princess developed its gardens in the style of the fashionable English Garden in the 1770s, and included numerous outbuildings for visitors and guests to enjoy, from stone grottoes and Roman temples to a Chinese pavilion. The castle and its gardens were confiscated by the Czechoslovak state in 1945, and today the buildings house a regional museum, happily preserving many of the gardens’ finest features.

Schloss Wlaschim in Bohemia (Vlašim, Czechia)
the Chinese Pavilion at Vlašim

The 6th Prince of Auersperg, Wilhelm I, presided over the family between 1800 and 1822. During this time, the Holy Roman Empire came to an end (1806), and tiny principalities like Tengen were absorbed by their larger neighbours, in this case the Grand Duchy of Baden. The Auerspergs retained the property, but the Prince decided to sell it to the Grand Duke outright in 1811. Meanwhile, the duchy of Gottschee and other castles and estates in Carniola were annexed by the Empire of the French in 1809 as part of its new ‘Illyrian Provinces’. After this territory was regained by the Austrian Empire in 1814 it was renamed the ‘Kingdom of Illyria’, before finally returning to its previous status in 1849 as the Crown Land of Carniola within the Austrian half of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy.

The 7th Prince, Wilhelm II, was only head of the family for five years, dying relatively young in 1827. His uncle Karl von Auersperg-Trautson had no sons, so this inheritance was transferred to the Prince’s nephew, Vincenz Carl, who assumed the title Prince of Auersperg-Trautson. He became Grand Chamberlain of the Austrian court in 1863. It is his descendants who hold the Trautson lands today.

Vincenz Carl, Prince of Auersperg-Trautson

The new head of the family overall, Karl Wilhelm, 8th Prince, was only 13, but eventually he grew and by the 1840s emerged as a youthful leader of the liberal or constitutional party, opponents of the arch-conservative Prince Metternich (as we’ve seen with his soon-to-be kinsman, Count von Breuner, above). When a constitution was finally granted in 1861, Emperor Franz Josef thus turned to Prince von Auersperg to serve as the first President of the new Austrian House of Lords. He also served as a member of the Bohemian Landtag and at times as that body’s president. After the Compromise of 1867 (creating an entirely separate Kingdom of Hungary), the Emperor asked Auersperg to form a liberal government for the Austrian half (‘Cisleithania’) of the Dual Monarchy. But he resigned after only a year as Minister-President due to conflicts with concessions being demanded by ethnic minorities, notably the Czechs—for although he considered himself a liberal, like most of his landowning magnate class, he favoured centralisation and a blending of cultures, not the separatism being demanded by nationalist movements. From 1868 to 1879, he resumed his position as President of the Austrian House of Lords. He had no children and died in 1890.

Karl Wilhelm, 8th Prince of Auersperg, Minister-President of Austria

Meanwhile, the Prince’s brother Adolf, was also a political force in Vienna. Born at Vašim, he also served a term as president of the Landtag of Bohemia, 1867-70, then a similar role in the province of Salzburg, 1870. From 1871 to 79, he took on his older brother’s role as Minister-President of Austria, but he too resigned over a question about Slavs, this time in Bosnia (newly occupied in 1878). His resignation effectively marked the end of liberalism as a leading party in Austria.

Prince Adolf von Auersperg, also Minister-President of Austria

Adolf’s son Karl took over as 9th Prince of Auersperg in 1890. He was quite close to Emperor’s son Crown Prince Rudolf (born just a year apart), and was shattered by his friend’s suicide in 1889. He took up his seat in the Austrian House of Lords and rose to be its vice-president from 1897 to 1907. He still sat as a member of the liberal-constitutional party, but never rose to greater prominence in the Imperial government. He turned much of his attentions instead to his estates back in Carniola and his role as president of the diet there, and in 1907 was elected to represent Gottschee in the lower house of the Austrian Parliament. In 1885, he married Countess Eleonore von Breuner, which brings us back to the start of this story and into the orbit of the Von Trapp family.

Karl, 9th Prince of Auersperg, 1902

After 1918, princely and ducal titles were abolished in Austria, and Carniola became Slovenia, one of the component parts of the new Kingdom of Yugoslavia. The 9th Prince died in 1927, leaving the now empty titles to his grandson, Karl Adolf—his elder son Adolf had died in 1923, while his younger son Karl assumed the name Auersperg-Breunner, and founded a new branch with the Breunner family properties, many which were surely well known to the Von Trapp cousins—when visiting Vienna for example. The heads of both branches moved to South America after the Second World War, the senior line to Uruguay and the junior to Argentina. Some remain in South America today while others have returned to Europe. The head of the junior branch, Prince Franz-Josef of Auersperg-Breuner (b. 1956), has a son and heir, Camilo, born in Buenos Aires, while the head of the senior branch, Adolf Karl, 11th Prince von Auersperg (b. 1937), has a son and heir, Carl Adolf, born in Montevideo.

Karl Adolf, 10th Prince of Auersperg, and Margit Batthyány, 1937

Many Austrian nobles emigrated to the Americas, like the Von Trapps, in the 1940s either for an innocent fresh start after the horrors of the Nazi era in their country or in many cases to escape their darker histories. One of the Auersperg-Trautsons was Alfred, a leading university psychologist in Vienna in the 1930s who became a Nazi Party member and part of the SS, and led some of the more questionable advances in neuroscience in the early 1940s. Fired from his job in 1945, he left for Brazil, then was invited to Chile to set up a psychology clinic in 1949, at a time when Chile’s government was shifting to the right. Another younger son from the Trautson branch rose to prominence, but this time—again making a connection with the Von Trapps—in music: Johannes Auersperg was a double bass player and teacher in Austria in the 1960s-70s. An early supporter of the baroque music revival of that era, he formed the Austrian Barocktrio and later led the Austrian Youth Orchestra and taught at the University of Graz.

Johannes Auersperg, professor of music

Let the sound of music play on!

the main doorway at Burg Wels, Upper Austria, with the Auersperg arms

Gesualdo: Princes of Venosa and a composer-murderer

I’ve just finished watching the last season of ‘My Brilliant Friend’ so my mind is focused on all things Neapolitan, and more troubling, about a world drenched in passion and violence. There were hundreds of wealthy aristocratic families in the Kingdom of Naples who were given princely titles—the highest honour, but without any sovereign status as in other parts of Europe—but none ended so suddenly and dramatically as the Gesualdo princes of Venosa, whose last member of the main line was both one of the most brilliant composers of the late Renaissance and a troubled soul who murdered his wife in a a fit of rage.

a cheesy image from the web: composer, music, murdered spouse…

Carlo Gesualdo’s music is incredible, strange, beautiful, conflicted, with harmonies several centuries ahead of their time, tonal clashes and deep emotional sighs. Anyone who has sung one of his madrigals or church anthems will never forget the experience. Few probably know that he was a prince of ancient lineage, or indeed about his murderous past.

The Gesualdo family was in fact ancient, going back to the Norman conquest of the southern Italian lands of Sicily, Calabria, Apulia and Campania (the countryside around Naples) in the eleventh century. They became lords of Gesualdo in about 1140, counts of Conza in 1452 and princes of Venosa in 1561. The main line was extinguished in 1613 with the death of the composer-prince, but there was a cadet branch, the lords of Santo Stefano, who were created princes of Gesualdo in 1704, but died out again in 1770.

Gesualdo Castle and the mighty Apennine mountains of Irpinia

The Gesualdo lordship itself is even older. For four hundred years before the invasion of the Normans, another family ruled this important fief in Campania, in the province of Avellino—a region the ancients called Irpinia (the mountainous interior east of the City of Naples). They were likely descended from Germanic Lombard warriors who took over this region in the sixth and seventh centuries. The legendary founder, a knight called Giswald, was in the service if Romwald, Duke of Beneventum; he was captured by Byzantine troops besieging that city in 663, but he managed to trick his captors into warning his duke of their arrival, saving the city, but losing his life as a result. Romwald honoured his name by giving it to a hilltop castle held by his family, Italianised as Gesualdo. The castle we see today, with its four great circular towers dates from the ninth century—built in a period when the frontiers of Beneventum were again threatened, now by Saracens. It was later enlarged in the 1130s by its Norman rulers. For centuries it remained strategically placed to defend this border zone in struggles between France and Aragon over the Kingdom of Naples, but after the latter’s complete victory in the region in 1504, it lost its strategic value. It would eventually pass to another family in 1772, and was sacked by invading French troops in 1799. In the nineteenth century Gesualdo Castle was owned by the Caracciolo princely family then the Caccese, who restored it in the 1850s and made it liveable again. It was badly damaged in the terrible earthquake of 1980 that destroyed many towns in this region (see below), and has only within the last decade been re-opened to the public.

In the late 1030s, a group of adventurers arrived in southern Italy, descendants of the Viking warriors who had settled a corner of northwest France and renamed it Normandy. Several of these came from one family, the sons of Tancred, ruler of a small village of Hauteville in the Contentin, the peninsula that juts out from Normandy into the English Channel. The name Hauteville likely simply means ‘upper estate’, but the more romantic tale is that it took its name from an ancestor, the famous Viking Hialt, a companion of Rollo. The name was later Italianised to Altavilla. Of the many sons of Tancred, two of them, Guglielmo and Drogo, staked claims to rule parts of the old Byzantine province of Apulia (the heel of Italy’s boot). The more famous brothers were Robert Guiscard who turned these lands into the Duchy of Apulia and Calabria (the toe as well as the heel), and Roger, who conquered the island of Sicily from the Saracens in 1071. His son Roger II went one further and became the first king of Sicily in 1130. His cousin, Roger Borsa (Guiscard’s son), was Duke of Apulia and Calabria until 1111, and left behind at least two sons: one legitimate, Guglielmo II, who ruled as duke until 1127, and one illegitimate, also named Guglielmo, possibly by a lady of the ancient Gesualdo family. The link between Guglielmo d’Altavilla and the Norman Hautevilles is impossible to prove, and indeed there are several other families in the region who also claim illegitimate descent, like the Ruggieri (taking their name from Roger’s Italian name) or the Rossi, princes of Cerami.

Southern Italy before it was fused into the Kingdom of Sicily in 1130.
Most of the fiefs mentioned in this post are located a little to the south of Ariano

What is known for certain is that by 1141 Guglielmo d’Altavilla was established in the lordship of Gesualdo and had married the heiress of the neighbouring lordship of Lucera. By the end of the century, the Barony of Gesualdo was one of the largest within the Kingdom of Sicily (which now included both the island and the mainland), with over thirty lordships spread over three provinces. The power of lords like those at Gesualdo in Campania was especially strong given their distance from the royal court in Palermo. Guglielmo’s sons held the highest positions in the royal government and military: Elia (Italian for Elijah) was Justiciar and Constable of the Kingdom in 1183, while Aristolfo was named commander of the Sicilian armies in the Second and Third Crusades (1147 and 1189).

arms of the House of Altavilla / Gesualdo

The last legitimate Norman king of Sicily died in 1189, and a power struggle between a legitimate daughter and an illegitimate son (also named Tancred) resulted in the takeover by the Holy Roman Emperor Henry VI from the Hohenstaufen dynasty. In the years that followed, the landholdings of the Altavilla family—who started to use the surname Gesualdo at this point, probably wisely distancing themselves from the disgraced former ruling dynasty—were significantly reduced. The family soon recovered their prominent position in royal government by joining forces with a new invader: Charles of Anjou, who became King of Sicily in 1266. Elia II, Lord of Gesualdo, was named Marshal of Sicily in 1266, and Justiciar of Calabria in 1269. His son Nicola I also supported the Angevins, especially after they were chased from Sicily in the Sicilian Vespers of 1282, and was named Captain-General of the City of Naples in 1289. In 1299 he was confirmed as Baron of Gesualdo. His nephew Nicola II was then Vicar-General of the Kingdom for King Robert of Anjou, while his son Matteo served as a chamberlain to this king and to his granddaughter Queen Giovanna I. In 1344, his brother Ruggero was elected Bishop of Nusco, whose see was in the same area as their landholdings in Campania, while the youngest, Francesco, married the heiress of the lordship of Bisaccia (on the eastern edges of Campania) and left many descendants.

In the next generation, Luigi I, Lord of Gesualdo, continued service to the Angevins, as Major Domo to King Charles III in the 1380s. In this century their chief residence became a fine castle, Calitri, perched atop a hill in close proximity to their other fiefs in this region. Calitri was built before the twelfth century and was surrounded by ancient houses built into the hilltop itself. The Gesualdos developed it into a sumptuous lordly residence. Like we’ve seen so far several times, it was destroyed and rebuilt several times by earthquakes over the centuries, and remains heavily damaged from the quake of 1980.

the Castle and Borgo of Calitri

In a similar manner, the House of Anjou came crashing down in 1435, and families like the Gesualdos scrambled for power in the ensuing conflict between French and Spanish contenders for the throne. Either Luigi II or Sansone II was created count of Conza, another one of the family’s lordships in Campania. The 4th Count, Fabrizio, was named a Grandee of Spain in 1536, as a sign of his family’s now firm loyalty to the new dynasty, the Habsburgs. The ancient Roman town of Compsa sat on the strategic pass towards Salerno and the coast. It had been the seat of a bishop since the eighth century, raised to an archbishopric in the eleventh. The family owned a castle nearby called Castelnuovo di Conza. Frequent earthquakes in this region meant that by the sixteenth century, the archbishops more usually resided in Sant’Andrea di Conza—and this was one of the worst hit spots in the earthquake of 1980s. Conza was entirely destroyed and the archbishopric permanently moved to Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi with a brand new cathedral.

the ruins of the old Cathedral of Conza

Several Gesualdos held this see, four archbishops of Conza in a row (almost) between 1517 and 1608: Camillo was first, for eighteen years, followed by his nephew Troaino for four. After a gap of just over twenty years, his nephew, Alfonso, was appointed. At the time of his appointment, Alfonso Gesualdo was also a cardinal, one of the youngest at only 21. He had a long and illustrious career in the Church—as candidate for the papal throne several times, and ultimately Dean of the College of Cardinals—and was appointed Archbishop of Naples in 1596, reigning there until his death in 1603.

Cardinal Alfonso Gesualdo with San Gennaro, patron saint of Naples

Cardinal Gesualdo had resigned the see of Conza to a cousin from a junior branch, Scipione Gesualdo, in 1584, who ruled the diocese until his death in 1608. Another cousin, Ascanio, took over as head of the Gesualdos’ ecclesiastical arm when he was appointed Archbishop of Bari in 1613 and titular Patriarch of Constantinople in 1618 during his posting in Prague as Nuncio to the Holy Roman Emperor.

The uncle of the Cardinal, Luigi IV, Count of Conza, was raised a rung in the aristocratic hierarchy when he was created Prince of Venosa in 1561. He had acquired more estates and wealth through his marriage to Isabella Ferrillo, heiress of the barony of Montefredane and large sums of cash, with which he purchased the city of Venosa. He was an efficient financial manager and became one of the richest men in the Kingdom. He was also an advisor to the government of Philip II, and a patron of poets and musicians in Naples.

Venosa was a very ancient city; the Romans called it Venusia, clearly named for the Goddess of Love. The legend was that Diomedes, King of Argos, founded it after the fall of Troy and named it as an apology to Venus for having offended her in thinking Helen was so beautiful.  It was strategically located, on the border between Apulia and Lucania on the Via Appia (the road from Rome to Apulia), in a province now called Basilicata. Its other claim to fame in ancient times was as the birthplace of the poet Horace. It was one of the early bases of the Altavilla dynasty, who buried some of their lords there; the Emperor Frederick II built a new castle in the early thirteenth century, while Charles of Anjou refortified it, and set it up as an autonomous county for his son Robert a few decades later. The County of Venosa passed to the powerful Orsini family in 1453, then by marriage to the Del Balzo, who built another new castle there in 1470—square with four massive cylindrical towers. The Gesualdo family only held it from 1561 to 1613. Since then it has been the seat of the Academia dei Rinascenti, and since 1991 it has housed a new National Museum of Venosa.

the castle of Venosa

In a dramatic shift away from the focus on wealth of his father, Fabrizio Gesualdo, 2nd Prince of Venosa, was quite pious. He stood out amongst other Neapolitan nobles, and even more so through the company he kept, as a friend of his brother-in-law Cardinal Carlo Borromeo, Archbishop of Milan. As part of the marriage settlements for Geronima Borromeo, the pope, Pius IV (the bride’s uncle), the principality of Venosa was confirmed for the family, and Fabrizio’s brother Alfonso was given his cardinal’s cap (see above). Cardinal Borromeo was one of the leaders of the Catholic Church’s internal reforms of the 1560s-70s—he would be canonised in 1610.

The product of this union of wealth and piety was Carlo Gesualdo, 3rd Prince of Venosa and composer of sublime music. He was initially the second son, and was sent to Rome to be raised by his two cardinal uncles for an elevated career in the Church. Already he displayed an interest in music, and was certainly well placed in Rome to learn from the best. He learned to play many instruments, including the lute and the harpsichord. But his older brother Luigi died from a horse-riding accident in 1584, making Carlo the heir. Two years later he married Maria d’Avalos, daughter of the Prince of Montesarchio (who was also his first cousin). He spent much of his time in Naples residing in the palace of relatives, the Palazzo San Severo (aka di Sangro). One day in October 1590 he arrived there to find his wife in bed with Fabrizio Carafa, Duke of Andria, and he killed them both on the spot. An official investigation concluded that he had committed no crime.

Carlo Gesualdo, Prince of Venosa

A few years later he travelled north, to the court of the Duke of Ferrara, at that time one of the leading centres of music, particularly the style of secular song known as the madrigal. He married a cousin of the Duke, Leonora d’Este, and spent several years in her hometown learning the craft of composing. When they eventually returned south to the castles of Gesualdo and Venosa—his father having died in 1593, Carlo was now the prince—his wife complained of abuse but was unsuccessful in obtaining a divorce. By this time, Gesualdo’s story of his first wife’s murder was already sensational and the inspiration for poets and novelists (and indeed, when interest in his music was revived in the 1920s, so too was interest in the story, inspiring a large number of operas—though I can’t say any of them ever reached number one). It doesn’t hurt that the palace in Naples was named ‘di Sangro’ (‘bloody’, though just by coincidence).

main entrance to the Palazzo di Sangro, Naples

The Prince began publishing music himself as well, adding five more books of madrigals on top of the one he had published in Ferrara. He became a recluse and his music more contorted and expressive, particularly his religious anthems and music meant to accompany the Tenebrae services in the days of mourning preceding Easter. Was it intense remorse for his actions, or the onset of mental illness? Guilt-driven depression may have been intensified by the death of his only son Emanuele, in August 1613 in a hunting accident, and he followed his son to the grave a few weeks later in September.

a book of madrigals published by Gesualdo, with both his family arms and those of his Este wife
Gesualdo’s madrigal, ‘Sento che nel partire’

All that was left of this branch of the Gesualdo family were several women: the composer’s widow, Leonora, who lived until 1637, his son’s widow, Maria Polyxena von Fürstenberg (who remarried, but not until many years later), and her two daughters. While the younger, Eleonora, became a nun in Naples, the elder, Isabella, became Princess of Venosa, Countess of Conza, and Lady of Gesualdo. She took these properties by marriage into the family of Ludovisi—a Roman princely family I have written about here. They retained the title Prince of Venosa into the present.

Meanwhile there was a cadet branch of the family. Back in the fourteenth century, a younger son received the lordship of Pescopagano, across the frontier from Campania in Basilicata (though not far). Like most towns in this region, it was built around a bold castle atop a rocky hill.

Pescopagano

This branch gained other lordships in the region, intermarried with other noble Neapolitan families (Carafa, del Balzo, Caracciolo), and supplied sons for the local abbeys and bishoprics (including two of the archbishops looked at above). In the sixteenth century, Fabio Gesualdo di Pescopagano purchased another fief, Santo Stefano, also in Avellino province. The family moved into the ‘palazzo baronale’, which is today the town hall.

the Baronial Palace, Santo Stefano

Following the extinction of the senior line, this junior line of Gesualdo di Santo Stefano purchased some of the family fiefs, including in the castle of Gesualdo itself. This was then raised to the rank of a principality in 1704 by the new king of Naples, Philip V, of the House of Bourbon. His rule was short in Naples, however, due to the War of Spanish Succession, and the title would need to be re-confirmed once the Bourbons returned to power in 1734. By this point, the 1st Prince (Domenico) was dead, and his son (Nicola) had become head of the house—he had been created Marchese of Santo Stefano in 1711, I assume by the Austrians who ruled in Naples after Philip V had been driven out. He died in 1738, and his son then ruled their tiny principality for another 32 years before he too died, with no heirs except a few sisters who had taken vows as nuns so couldn’t inherit anything. I have not found any images of these Gesualdo princes or really any biographical information about their lives.

Though the fief of Gesualdo itself was sold in 1772 to the Caracciolo family, the princely title was inherited by a first cousin, Oderisio di Sangro—from the same family who owned the palazzo of that name we’ve seen before in Naples—who much earlier (1720) had purchased the principality of Fondi (closer to Rome) from the Mansfeld family. This family continues to exist, and its head today, Riccardo di Sangro (b. 1959), uses the title 15th Prince of Gesualdo.

another view of Gesualdo Castle

Ponce de León and the Dukes of Arcos: Andalusian Lords and the First Floridian

Most American schoolchildren have heard of Ponce de Leon, when learning about the early Spanish explorers of the New World—after Cortes and Pizarro heading to Mexico and Peru, most can recall that Ponce de Leon went north in 1513 and discovered a new land he named La Florida, ‘the land of flowers’. I admit, I thought for a long time that his first name was Ponce (perhaps like Ponch, from CHiPs?); it is in fact Juan, though the name Ponce was indeed once a first name borne by an ancestor from the late twelfth century. More intriguingly, the ‘de León’ part comes from that first Ponce’s son’s excellent marriage to an illegitimate daughter of the king of León, Alfonso IX. But though the Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León is certainly reckoned to be part of this extensive family, it is curious that scholars are unsure of exactly where he fits in its dynastic history.

a map of the Caribbean from 1594, with La Florida at top, and Puerto Rico right of centre (pink)

The rest of the family history is well known and forms a key part of the history of the Spanish monarchy in the extension of royal power into the southern parts of the Iberian peninsula. By the early fifteenth century they were major landowners in Andalusia, with two key fortresses near the ancient city of Cadiz: Arcos and Zahara. The senior branch was even named Duke of Cadiz in 1484, but in the absence of direct male heirs, this title reverted to the Crown less than ten years later. The Duke’s wealth and subsidiary titles, however, passed to a junior branch, who were shortly after created Duke of Arcos. Their descendants were prominent grandees in the seventeenth century, with two brothers in particular, Rodrigo and Luis, serving the Habsburgs as viceroy and governor in Naples and Milan; while their sister, Elvira, was head of the household of Queen Mariana of Austria, regent for her young son Carlos II. Like many of the ducal families of Spain in this century, the dukes of Arcos swept up heiresses of other ducal families, such that by the 1720s the 7th Duke of Arcos was also Duke of Ciudad Real, Duke of Maqueda and Duke of Nájera, while his brother the 1st Duke of Baños also became 7th Duke of Aveiro. Although there were four healthy sons in the next generation, none of them produced any children, so this massive windfall—the collected inheritances of the houses of Ponce de León, Cárdenas, Manrique de Lara and Lencastre—all passed in 1780 into the house of Pimentel-Benavente, and on to one of the grandest of all Spanish aristocratic families, the Téllez-Girón dukes of Osuna—but their story will be told elsewhere.

arms of the dukes of Arcos

The coat of arms of the family also point to their semi-royal origins: with the red lion of León on one side, and the red and gold stripes of Catalonia on the other—all framed by eight small shields of blue and gold representing an old family from Navarre. This reference to Catalonia recalls the ancient surname of the family, Cabrera, so we can start there.

Cabrera was once an independent viscounty in the eastern foothills of the Pyrenees, founded in the early eleventh century and eventually absorbed into the County of Barcelona, aka the Principality of Catalonia. The name Ponce comes from here too: as the Spanish version of the Catalan name Ponç (itself a variant of the then common French name Pons, which is related to the Roman name Pontius). Ponç de Cabrera came to the court of Alfonso VII, King of Castile and León, in about 1130, in the entourage of his new wife, Berenguela, daughter of the Count of Barcelona. After service in wars in Castile, Ponce was created a count in 1143 and became the King’s Mayordomo in 1145. He married his daughter Sancha to the Mayordomo of Alfonso VII’s younger son, King Fernando II, Count Vela Gutierrez, who adopted the Cabrera name and arms. Vela Gutierrez was the son of Count Gutierro Vermudez (Spain’s nobility was using patronymics still at this stage) who is thought to be descended from the Vermudez (or Bermudez) clan of Asturias—Bermudo Nuñez is said to be a grandson of King Ordoño I of Asturias (died 866). So, ancient stock indeed.

Sancha and Vela had several sons, who took the surname Vela or Velaz de Cabrera. The youngest, Abbot Pedro, was Mayordomo and Chancellor of King Fernando II of León, while his older brother, Ponce, became alférez, or master of arms, of his son Alfonso IX in 1188. Ponce’s son Pedro Ponce de Cabrera took over his father’s role as head of the military household, and continued it into the reign of Fernando III. Fernando reunited both Castile and León from 1230 and launched a massive crusade to reconquer the south of the Iberian peninsula from its Muslim lords. Cabrera assisted in the conquest of the Umayyad capital city of Córdoba in 1236, and was given lands in that area in reward. He had already been rewarded a few years earlier with the hand of the King’s illegitimate sister (the daughter of Alfonso IX), Aldonza de León, and their son, Fernan Perez (using the patronymic for Pedro) began to add the surname Ponce de León. This generation continued to wield extensive power: Fernan was Mayordomo for Alfonso X, Ayo (governor) of Fernando IV, and Adelantado (king’s representative or senior magistrate) of La Frontera, aka Andalusia, from 1290; his brothers Ruy and Pedro became heads of orders of knighthood, the elder as Grand Master of the Order of Calatrava, and the younger as Comendador mayor of the Order of Santiago.

In the next generation, Pedro Ponce de León continued service in the same vein, as both Mayordomo mayor of King Fernando IV and Adelantado of Asturias, and maintaining the family landholdings in the north; his brother Fernando, Master of the Order of Alcántara, acquired a new lordship for the family in the south in 1309: Marchena in the plains east of Seville. This was an area rich with olive plantations—the name of the town even comes from marshenah, ‘olive trees’ in Arabic. It had initially been taken from the Moors in 1247. Much later, in the 1880s, Marchena was given again as a title, now a dukedom, for junior members of the royal house of Spain (and it still exists today). An early Moorish fortress was converted into a palace, later known as a the Ducal Palace of Marchena; a ruin by the nineteenth century, King Alfonso XIII had its main gateway transferred to the Royal Alcázar of Seville.

the remains of the Palacio Ducal of Marchena now in Seville

Fernando Ponce de León had acquired Marchena through marriage to a daughter of Guzmán el Bueno, one of the chief warlords in Andalusia (I’ve written about his family here). She was also heiress of the town of Rota, an ancient city founded by Phoenicians on the Bay of Cadiz, with a large Castillo de la Luna from the 1290s overlooking chief shipping lanes coming into the Mediterranean. This area around Cadiz would become a chief centre of operations for the Ponce de León dynasty for centuries to come.

Castillo de la Luna in Rota

The lords of Marchena were less prominent at court than their ancestors, but continued to add to their landed wealth in the south (they became known as ‘rico hombres’ of Castile). Pedro, 2nd Lord of Marchena, fought alongside Alfonso XI in the 1330s-40s, and was rewarded with more lands in Andalusia. He was buried in the Monastery of San Augustin in Seville, which was for many years the family sepulchre (but was moved in the nineteenth century to the Church of the Annunciation). Juan, 3rd Lord of Marchena, was involved in one of the many revolts against Pedro I (‘the Cruel’) and was executed in Seville in 1367; soon after, his sister Beatriz’s lover Enrique of Trastámara overthrew his brother Pedro to become King Enrique II of Castile—it is an interesting aside to note that Beatriz’s son by Enrique became the first duke of Benavente, and the heirs to that dukedom would ultimately also inherit the dukedom of the Ponce de León family. Her brother Pedro became 4th Señor of Marchena and married the heiress of another lordship, Bailén, in the former kingdom of Jaén. This old city was located in the agricultural interior of Andalusia, close to the site of one of the grandest battles of the Reconquista, Las Navas de Tolosa (1212).

Their son Pedro became 1st Count of Medellín, in Badajoz (western Castile), in 1429, which he soon exchanged for the town of Arcos de la Frontera, much closer to his power base near Cadiz. Arcos had been the seat of an independent Moorish taifa (or minor kingdom) in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and sat high on top of a cliff with the river Guadalete winding around it on three sides. The castle, from the eleventh century, was rebuilt in the fifteenth and is still linked to some ruins of Arab and even Roman city walls. The Guadalete river emerges from the Sierra Nevada mountains and flows north for a distance before turning south and west and flowing to the sea in the Bay of Cadiz. Somewhere along these banks is the site of the Battle of Guadalete, 711, which marked the end of the dominance of the Visigoths in Iberia and the rise of the Umayyad Caliphate.

Arcos de la Frontera

Juan Ponce de León, 2nd Count of Arcos, was a supporter of King Enrique IV against noble rebels, and captured the city of Cadiz in 1466 from supporters of the King’s half-brother Infante Alfonso. In thanks, the King created him Marques of Cadiz, 1471. Juan married another Guzmán, the most powerful family in the region, as did three of his daughters, and indeed did his brother Luis: Teresa de Guzmán, Señora of Villagarcía, who founded a junior branch, to which we will return below.

But the 1st Marques’s marriage was not fruitful, so he married his concubine and legitimised his sons. The first died before his father, so the second, Rodrigo, became 2nd Marques of Cadiz and 3rd Count of Arcos. The third, Manuel, was given Bailén and eventually made a count (1522)—his descendants held the county of Bailén until 1618, when their lands were re-integrated into the main line of the House of Arcos.

The House of Arcos was propelled into premier rank by Rodrigo, 2nd Marques of Cadiz, who had fought with his father in service of Enrique IV, and for Enrique’s daughter Juana against her cousin, Isabel. But when Isabel emerged triumphant as Queen of Castile in 1476, Cadiz swore loyalty to her and was forgiven, his titles confirmed (despite having married the daughter of the opposition leader, Juan Pacheco). Rodrigo proved his loyalty soon enough by leading Isabel’s armies in the conquest of the Kingdom of Granada. In 1483, he re-took the city of Zahara, in the Sierra de Cadiz—whose capture by the Moors in 1481 had been the pretence to launch this war. Earlier that year, he had captured King Muhammad XII, better known as Boabdil, but convinced the Catholic Kings to release him so as to foment civil war in Granada. He was created Duke of Cadiz in 1484. The Duke then went on to take the fortress of Casares on the western edge of the Sierra Nevada (1485); the city of Málaga (1487); then took part in the final capture of the city of Granada itself in January 1492. His titles expanded further: Marques of Zahara and Count of Casares, with an aim of transmitting the first of these to his daughter and the second to his grandson.

Rodrigo Ponce de León, Duke of Cadiz

The Duke of Cadiz died in August 1492 in Seville. Queen Isabel decreed that the ducal title could not be transmitted to his daughter Francisca, born of a concubine, but she could be Marquesa of Zahara. The dukedom of Cádiz returned to the Crown; it would eventually be re-erected as a dukedom in the nineteenth century for the nephew of King Ferdinand VII and husband of Queen Isabel II, Infante Francisco de Asis. In 1972 it was revived again by General Franco for Don Alfonso de Borbón, one of the claimants to the Spanish throne, and after 1975 chief Legitimist claimant to the throne of France. Since 1989, the title Duque de Cádiz has been held (by tradition, not by law) by his son, Luis Antonio, who also goes by the title Duc d’Anjou (aka King Louis XX to French Legitimists).

Francisca Ponce de León was 2nd Marquesa de Zahara. This ancient Moorish fortress was also on the river Guadalete (before its flows past Arcos) and probably takes its name from the Arabic sahra (sterile, dry, rocky). It had been captured by Christian armies in 1407, and now returned to Castilian hands to become a central part of the Ponce de León patrimony. Casares, which passed to her son, Rodrigo, was located further east in the province of Málaga. Francisca was also 4th Countess of Arcos and 8th Lady of Marchena. Her husband was Luis Ponce de León, a cousin and head of the junior branch of the family, the lords of Villagarcía. This lordship, Villagarcía de la Torre, was near Badajoz and the frontier with Portugal. Its castle was built in the fifteenth century on top of a much older fortress. It survived for many centuries, but  was mostly destroyed in the Carlist wars of the nineteenth century.

Zahara
Casares
Villagarcia

The Ponce de León family also acquired about this time a grand house in the city of Jerez, which was branded the Palacio de los Ponce de León and remained their primary seat for the next two centuries. In the late eighteenth century it passed to the Ysasi family, who later donated it to the city of Jerez. Today it houses a convent school.

Palacio de los Ponce de León in Jerez

Luis and Francisca were married in 1487 and were permitted to retain most of the late Duke’s properties, but not the ducal title—as a special concession, however, their son Rodrigo, born in 1488, was named 1st Duke of Arcos in 1493. The line thus continued through him.

Before proceeding to the dukes of Arcos, however, this is where scholars think to insert the explorer Juan Ponce de León. He may have been the younger brother of Luis, Lord of Villagarcía, and probably served with his cousin the Duke of Cadiz in the conquest of Granada in 1492. For such a prominent historical figure, it is strange that his exact parentage is not known, or even his birthdate (1460? 1474?). To me this sounds like something fishy is going on… so perhaps he was an adopted son, or product of adultery (though in that time illegitimate children were rarely hidden amongst the Spanish aristocracy). Speculating wildly, maybe he was a secret child of one of the last kings of Granada, captured and raised as a Christian by the Duke of Cadiz? Such things have been known to happen. Anyway, what is known is that he sailed on the second expedition led by Christopher Columbus to the Indies in 1493, and stayed in the region (with some trips back to Spain) for the rest of his life. The governor of Hispaniola charged him with putting down a rebellion of native Tainos in 1504 and was given that region (the eastern end of the island) to govern, with lands and slaves for his plantations. Hearing tales of gold to be found on the neighbouring island of San Juan (today called Puerto Rico), he was charged with a formal expedition in 1508. Gold was indeed found, and a new settlement started, Caparra. Here he settled with his family as governor of the island from 1509. The capital was later moved a bit to the east, closer to the port, and renamed San Juan.

the ruins at Caparra, San Juan, Puerto Rico

Ponce de León was a brutal governor, forcing the natives into slavery and fighting with Diego Colón (Columbus’s son) who claimed the right to rule over him from Hispaniola. King Ferdinand back in Spain seemed to want to support Ponce de León in the face of Colón’s better legal claims, so encouraged the former to travel north to explore other islands, with a very generous contract that would allow him to keep much of the spoils. The contract mentions gold and slaves, but nothing about a ‘fountain of youth’, so that story was invented later—first appearing in biographies about Ponce de León long after his death. He sighted land in Easter 1513, and the name Florida may refer to the Spanish tradition of celebrating La Pascua Florida (‘flowery Easter’). That year, his crew explored the east coast, the keys, the west coast perhaps as far north as Tampa Bay, then returned to Puerto Rico. He travelled to Spain and was re-confirmed by the King as governor, and given a coat of arms (said to be a first for a conquistador, but certainly not something he would have needed if he was indeed the son of a Ponce de León lord?). In the spring of 1521, he organised a large-scale colonisation expedition to Florida, aiming for somewhere on the southwest coast—but they were chased off by natives and he was wounded in a skirmish; they retreated to Havana, Cuba, where Juan Ponce de León died later that year. He is buried in the cathedral of San Juan, Puerto Rico.

a statue of Juan Ponce de León in San Juan

Another Ponce de León of this generation who played a—very brief—part in the governing of the new Spanish colonies was Luis, a judge in Cordoba, who was appointed by the King to travel to Mexico in 1526 as Governor of New Spain, in an effort to restore order to the government of Hernán Cortés. He arrived in July and died after only a few days—Cortés was suspected but the King was powerless to do much about it.

There are two other Juan Ponce de Leóns associated with the history of Puerto Rico. As was common, a Spanish nobleman often used his mother’s surname if she was of higher rank (which may explain the unclear links with both the governors of Puerto Rico and New Spain above), so we have the conquistador’s daughter’s son, Juan II, a coloniser of the island of Trinidad and briefly governor of Puerto Rico in the 1570s, and his son, Juan III, coloniser of the south coast of Puerto Rico for whom the island’s second city (Ponce) is named.

a Dutch navigator’s map of Hispaniola and Puerto Rico, 1660s

Still another with this surname, Pedro Ponce de León, was a cleric and an advisor to King Charles (Emperor Charles V). Like Juan II above, he was actually only a Ponce de León via his mother. He made his mark as a bishop in Spain, first in Ciudad Rodrigo then in Plasencia (1560), and amassed one of the largest private libraries of his time—now part of the royal collections in the Escorial. In 1572, he was appointed Grand Inquisitor of Spain, but died before he could take up the office.

Meanwhile, the 1st Duke of Arcos consolidated his family’s holdings in Andalusia inherited from his mother and grandfather. He married Isabel Pacheco, whose grandfather had been the same leader of the rebellion against Queen Isabel noted above. The Duke served the Crown as the alguacil mayor (or sheriff) of Seville, and died in 1530.

Rodrigo Ponce de León, 1st Duke of Arcos

The 2nd and 3rd dukes did not play a major role in history: they fought in the King’s wars abroad in Flanders and at home in Iberia—against Moriscos, Portuguese, and English pirates invading their home region of Cadiz (1587). Both dukes were awarded knighthoods in the Order of the Golden Fleece like others of their class.

The son of the 3rd Duke, Luis, 6th Marques of Zahara (the title used for the heir), died before succeeding, so the title passed in 1630 to another Rodrigo, 4th Duke of Arcos. He is probably the most famous member of the family, as Viceroy of Naples from 1646. He successfully suppressed a popular rebellion led by the fisherman Masaniello in July 1647, only to lose control a month later when the Neapolitans proclaimed a republic. He was recalled to Spain in disgrace and replaced as viceroy, and died a decade later. Arcos became the main baddie in an opera about the Masianello revolt, La Muette de Portici (though he’s called ‘Alphonse, Comte d’Arcos’), composed by Daniel Auber, which premiered in Paris in 1828—it became famous as the opera that birthed a nation when a riot began during the second act (supposedly in the duet ‘Amour sacré de la patrie’—sacred love of the fatherland) when it was staged in Brussels in August 1830.

Rodrigo, 4th Duke of Arcos, Viceroy of Naples

By the time of the 4th Duke’s death, his sister Elvira, Marquesa de Villanueva de Valdueza, was rising in prominence as Camarera mayor of Queen Mariana (from 1654). Mariana became regent of Spain for her son King Carlos II in 1665, making her chief lady one of the most powerful women in Spain. During her regency, Doña Elvira was in charge of the Queen Mother’s correspondence and arranging access to her chambers for visiting diplomats. Her brother Luis was at the time serving as Governor of Milan, which was, after Naples, the most important possession of the Spanish Crown in Italy. He died there in 1668.

a portrait of Queen Mariana and her court, about 1672 (Caspar Netscher), with Doña Elvira, Marquesa de Villanueva de Valdueza standing behind her, and like her, dressed in the habit of a nun.

Francisco, 5th Duke of Arcos, married three times, but died childless in 1673, leaving his titles and estates to his brother Manuel. The 6th Duke had already married Maria de Guadalupe de Lencastre, Duchess of Aveiro and Duchess of Maqueda, who has already been written about in context of the Portuguese dukedom of Aveiro. Part of an agreement by the King of Portugal to allow her to use the Portuguese titles in 1679 was that she had to move back to Portugal; her husband refused to grant his permission, so she legally separated from him and moved to Lisbon. It was agreed that their eldest son would be heir to the Ponce de León and other Spanish titles, while their younger son would inherit those of Portugal.

Duke Manuel died in 1693, so his son Joaquin became 7th Duke of Arcos, and also duke of Ciudad Real, Maqueda and Najera. He held the prominent positions in Spain of Adelantado mayor of Granada, Comendador mayor of Castile for the Order of Calatrava, and played an important role in the War of Spanish Succession by publicly adhering to the new Bourbon king, Philip V, bringing his huge fortune and extensive patronage networks with him. The King in return named him to his Council of State and Viceroy of Valencia, 1705-06. The Duke’s brother Gabriel took the surname ‘de Lencastre’ and waited for his share of the succession, since their mother did not die until 1715. In an effort to retain his loyalty in Spain, not Portugal, Carlos II had created the latter Duke of Baños in 1699. I haven’t been able to find out which of the many places in Spain with this name the dukedom is based on, but it may have been Baños de la Encina in Jaén, as this town was close to the Ponce de León County of Bailén. When Don Gabriel died in 1745, this dukedom was permitted to pass to his nephew Antonio by order of the Spanish king Ferdinand VI, but he was not allowed to succeed to the Portuguese titles, which went instead to cousins in the family of Mascarenhas.

The 7th Duke of Arcos had four healthy sons, but as noted above, none of them had any children. The 8th Duke (Joaquin II) was a general serving in the Spanish armies fighting in Italy in the War of Austrian Succession—he was wounded in battle near Bologna, 1743, and died shortly after. His brother, Manuel, 9th Duke, was also a general fighting in the same campaign, and died a year later, in 1744. The titles of Arcos, Maqueda and Najera passed to the next brother, Francisco, who married in 1745 in an attempt to sire an heir, but he died in 1763 without one, leaving everything to the fourth and last brother, Antonio, who as we have seen was already titled 2nd Duke of Baños. This 11th Duke of Arcos had been an aide-de-camp to the Infante Felipe back in the 1740s when that prince (the youngest son of Philip V) was fighting to gain his patrimony in Italy (the duchy of Parma), then served as a captain in the Spanish king’s Bodyguard. In 1772, now a duke four times over, he was named Captain-General, the top rank in the Spanish Army. But he died with no direct heir in 1780 and everything was up for grabs.

Bust of Antonio, 11th Duke of Arcos

The ducal titles of Maqueda and Najera went in one direction, and the titles of the House of Arcos went another, to the niece of the 5th and 6th dukes, Maria Josefa Pimentel de Borja, 12th Duchess of Benavente in her own right, and Duchess of Osuna by marriage. There’s a lovely portrait of the 12th Duchess of Arcos by Goya (1785). All her titles passed to her grandson, the 11th Duke of Osuna, of the house of Téllez-Girón, in 1834.

Maria Josefa, 12th Duchess of Arcos, 12th Duchess of Benavente, by Goya (1785)

In 1882 the 12th Duke of Osuna (and 14th Duke of Acos) died and his many many titles were fought over in the courts for a decade. In 1892, the dukedom of Arcos was awarded to a nephew, Count José Brunetti (son of a count from Pisa, Austrian ambassador to Madrid in the 1820s). The 15th Duke of Arcos—a separate title once again—was a well-travelled diplomat, with posts in South America gradually leading to stints as ambassador to the United States in 1898 (immediately following Spain’s humiliating defeat and loss of Cuba and Puerto Rico—an interesting second appearance of that island in this blog!), then in Belgium (1902), Russia (1904) and Italy (1905). While in the United States he had met and married Virginia Woodbury Lowery, granddaughter of a Secretary of the Treasury and Supreme Court Justice. Together the Duke and Duchess of Arcos became patrons of higher education (with scholarships at Harvard University) and of the arts, donating a sizeable collection of priceless paintings to the Prado after the Duke’s death in 1928.  They had no children, so the title of Arcos went back to the next heir of the dukedom of Osuna, Angela Maria Téllez-Girón. The 16th Duchess of Arcos died in 2015, followed by her daughter in 2016. The title is now held by the latter’s daughter, Maria Cristina de Ulloa y Solís-Beaumont, 18th Duchess of Arcos (b. 1980).

José Brunetti, 15th Duke of Arcos

The name Arcos is not one of the most well known amongst the dukes and princes of Spain, but the surname Ponce de León certainly made its mark in the New World!

Noailles—a major court family at Versailles, and patrons of the arts in the 20th century

One of my favourite scenes in the movie Marie-Antoinette (2006) is the one in which the new Dauphine of France wakes up in the morning and is totally bewildered by the extremely complicated routine at Versailles, explained to her by the Comtesse de Noailles (whom she dubs ‘Madame Etiquette’), played by the wonderfully frosty Judy Davis. Her husband’s family had been one of the most influential at Versailles for a century, since the reign of Louis XIV—and certainly suffered for it during the French Revolution: Madame Etiquette herself was executed in June 1794. Although she was referred to in the film (and indeed at court) as a countess, she was in fact entitled to be a duchess—even twice over—of Poix in France and of Mouchy in Spain. Her husband the Duke of Mouchy was the founder of the junior line of the family, with his elder brother in the top position as 4th Duke of Noailles. The Duke of Noailles was also Duke of Ayen (the title used for his heir). So by the start of the French Revolution there were four dukedoms in one family: Noailles, Ayen, Mouchy and Poix.

Judy Davis as the Countess of Noailles instructs the new Dauphine in the film Marie-Antoinette (2006)
the actual ‘Madame Ettiquette’, Anne d’Arpajan

Both branches of the Noailles family survived the Revolution, and continued to be prominent in France, with two particularly influential women as patrons of the avant garde art scene in the mid-20th century. I first became aware of Marie-Laure de Noailles when I was in my twenties and obsessing over the diaries of the American composer Ned Rorem. She was his patron, as she was to Poulenc, Milhaud, and many other composers and artists. She has been called the surrealists’ muse. I love the image of her, in her sixties, joining the radical movement of protesting students in Paris in 1968—driving her Rolls Royce up to the barricades in solidarity! More recently I have been reading about a distant cousin, Solange d’Ayen, who features in the new film Lee—about former model and war photographer Lee Miller, whose friends (referred to in the film only as ‘the Duke’ and ‘the Duchess’) were both prisoners of the Nazis during World War II. Both had been important patrons of the art world in Paris: Solange had been a fashion editor at Vogue in the late 1920s. She survived the prison camp; her husband did not. And in this artistic vein, there was still another woman, the Duke’s aunt, Anna de Noailles, born a Romanian princess of the house of Bibesco, who was herself an important poet and salon hostess in Paris in the first years of the twentieth century, part of the social circle of writers like Marcel Proust, and muse to numerous artists of the turn of the century.

Marie-Laure de Noailles
Solange d’Ayen
Anna de Noailles

The origins of this illustrious family, however, are far from the art scene of Paris or even the rigid etiquette of Versailles. The Château of Noailles is deep in the countryside of the Limousin province, in the basin of the river Brive (today’s Corrèze Department). This is the western edge of France’s Massif Central, a place of deep gorges, caves and grottos, an area where a number of France’s premier medieval nobility had their origins, as warriors on the frontier between the power of the King of France in Paris and the King of England in Aquitaine (as noted in a previous blog post about the Rochechouarts). The ancientness of the family, with records back to about 1220, can be detected by the simplicity of its coat-of-arms: a basic gold diagonal band on red. The castle of Noailles was built in this turbulent time in the fourteenth century, then given a Renaissance façade on its central block in the sixteenth century. Much of it burned in 1789, but was restored in the nineteenth century. Today it is private, not open to tourists.

the arms of the Dukes of Noailles
The Château de Noailles

Early members of the family got involved in the Church: Hugues de Noailles died on Crusade in 1248 at the side of King Louis IX (Saint Louis); his son and grandson were successive chaplains to the embattled pope in Rome, Boniface VIII, the last to rule there before the papacy moved to Avignon, where another Noailles served as a guard during one of the highly secretive papal conclaves. In the middle of the thirteenth century, the family married the heiress of the adjacent lordship of Noaillac (so they became lords of Noailles and Noaillac, today spelled Noailhac), and a generation later the heiress of two lordships in the Auvergne, the hilly province to the east.

The Noailles family remained a provincial family until the mid-sixteenth century when two sons (out of a total nineteen siblings!) rose to favoured positions at the Valois court. Antoine, Lord of Noailles, made his name fighting in the armies of François I against Emperor Charles V in the Piedmont in the 1540s. He was named an admiral in 1547, and later served as a diplomat in England in the 1550s, Governor of Bordeaux and Lieutenant-General of Aquitaine. His wife entered court service as lady-in-waiting to Catherine de Medici and later was dame d’honneur for Queen Elizabeth of Austria, and accompanied her back to Vienna as a widow when King Charles IX died in 1574. The Noailles women thus had a long history of running the households of French royal women, and greeting and escorting Habsburg brides long before Marie-Antoinette arrived on the scene nearly two centuries later.

Antoine, Seigneur de Noailles

Antoine’s brothers were churchmen: in 1556, François was appointed Bishop of Dax, in the far southwest of France, but was never consecrated since that city was in the hands of Protestants—he himself was suspected of adhering to the Calvinist heresy. Hoping to be promoted to the bishopric of Beauvais (but blocked by Catherine de Medici), he resigned Dax to another brother Gilles, Abbot of l’Isle, in 1562, but the latter was not consecrated either. Considered one of the most capable statesmen of his century, François was ambassador to Venice in the 1560s then to the Ottoman Sultan 1571-75, and was instrumental in building the Franco-Ottoman alliance that so destabilised Spanish power in the Mediterranean for a generation. Gilles too was a diplomat, as ambassador to England, renewing the auld alliance with Scotland in 1561, then replacing his brother in Constantinople in 1575.

Gilles de Noailles, Bishop of Dax, as Ambassador to Constantinople

In 1581, the Bishop of Dax bought the lordship of Ayen from the King of Navarre, and in 1593 this estate was erected into a county for the Noailles family. Ayen was only a short distance to the northwest from Noailles itself; being on the main north-south road between Paris and Toulouse, its strategic location meant its old medieval castle had been occupied for a long time by English troops during the Hundred Years War: stretching from Richard the Lionheart making his base here in the 1190s to a major siege by French troops in 1415, after which the castle was razed. Even without a rebuilt château, the estate at Ayen remained significant and was in fact the core of the Duchy of Noailles created by Louis XIV in 1663. It then gave its name to the separate dukedom created for the heir in 1737.

Antoine de Noailles’ son Henri, 1st Count of Ayen, was born in London while his father was posted there. He became one of the Gentlemen of the Chamber to King Henry III in 1583 and was appointed to the Council of State by Henry IV in 1597. He also served as the King’s Lieutenant-General of the Auvergne, where thirty years earlier he had relentlessly pushed out Protestants on orders of the Crown. His two sons continued this service in the region well into the seventeenth century: François, Count of Ayen, replacing his father as Lieutenant-General of Auvergne, and Charles as Bishop of Saint-Flour (in Auvergne) for nearly forty years. Ayen was also created first French governor of Roussillon, a province newly conquered from Spain in 1643, which the Noailles family would govern for several generations—until the end of the ancien regime.

Henri de Noailles, 1st Count of Ayen
François, Count of Ayen

In the next generation, Anne de Noailles became a protegé of Cardinal Mazarin: a field marshal in 1643 and Premier Captain of the King’s Bodyguard in 1648. In 1660, he was appointed to his father’s old post as Governor of Roussillon, with its capital in Perpignan. Three years later, Louis XIV elevated Anne to the ranks of the dukes and peers of France as 1st Duke of Noailles. He was also Marquis de Montclar in Auvergne and Marquis de Mouchy in Picardy. His wife was appointed one of the chief ladies-in-waiting of the new Spanish queen, Marie-Thérèse—as always, there was a Noailles woman in attendance on the Queen of France. The first Duchess of Noailles was Louise Boyer, heiress of the last Baron of Mouchy and brought that estate into the family, which we’ll look at more carefully below.

Anne, 1st Duke of Noailles
Louise, 1st Duchess of Noailles

As ever with this family, there were several sons, many of whom rose to positions of prominence. Of the younger sons, Jacques and Jean-François made their names in the navy and the army, respectively, while Louis-Antoine and Jean-Baptiste were both senior clergymen. The latter was Bishop of Chalons, which meant he was one of the six ecclesiastical peers, but died in 1720 before he had a chance to exercise this duty at the coronation of Louis XV. Louis-Antoine held the much more important (but newer) peerage of Paris (from 1695), and as Archbishop, and then Cardinal (1699), presided over many important court ceremonies, from royal baptisms to marriages to funerals. He also had a fabulous portrait done!

the Cardinal de Noailles, Archbishop of Paris

But it was the eldest son who is seen as the most significant member of the family in its long history. Anne-Jules became 2nd Duke of Noailles in 1678, and succeeded his father as Captain of one of the companies of the King’s Bodyguard (Gardes du Corps). He was also Louis XIV’s aide-de-camp during the Dutch War of the 1670s, and was promoted higher and higher through the ranks, to field marshal, lieutenant general, and finally Marshal of France in 1693—he’s considered one of France’s principal generals in the Nine Years War (1688-97). He also took over his father’s post as Governor of Roussillon in 1678, then was promoted to much more prestigious (and financially lucrative) post next door as Governor of Languedoc in 1682. From here, he launched his Noailles Regiment across the Pyrenees to aid the Catalan revolt against Habsburg rule, achieving several victories, notably on the River Ter in 1694. He was appointed Viceroy of Catalonia—but becoming ill, and having annoyed the King, he handed over this post to the Duke of Vendôme and returned to court. The Marshal-Duke of Noailles returned to favour when he was honoured in 1700 with the appointment to escort the young Prince Philippe of Anjou, newly named Philip V of Spain, to the frontier. He was busy at home too fathering thirteen children survive childhood; of these, three of the daughters married well, even into the extended network of the royal family itself: Lucie-Félicité married the Marshal-Duke of Estrées, a cousin of the Duke of Vendôme, of the illegitimate branch of the House of Bourbon; Marie-Thérèse married the Duke of La Vallière, the nephew of Louis XIV’s first ‘official’ mistress; while Marie-Victoire married the Marquis de Gondrin, the grandson of Louis’ second mistress, Madame de Montespan, then later Louis XIV’s own son by Montespan, the Count of Toulouse (thus his half-uncle, which raised some eyebrows in ecclesiastical law). The last of these as Countess of Toulouse became a surrogate mother to the young orphan Louis XV and remained a strong maternal figure well into his reign.

Anne-Jules, 2nd Duke of Noailles, Marshal of France
Marie-Victoire de Noailles, Countess of Toulouse, as an older woman

The heir to the dukedom of Noailles, Adrien-Maurice, took over his father’s post of Captain of the King’s Guards well in advance of his father’s death in 1708, as well as the post of Governor of Roussillon—which he governed for 68 years!—and added another government, Berry, in 1698. He too rose through the ranks of the military, notably during the War of the Spanish Succession, and also became a Marshal of France. When Louis XIV died, a regency government was led by the Duke of Orléans, who appointed the 3rd Duke of Noailles as President of the Council of Finance—he was not just a figurehead, and tried actively to reform the finance system in France, now heavily burdened by the debts of Louis XIV’s many wars. He proposed a system of proportional taxes and the suppression of the dîme (the ten percent tax) collected by the Church. But as with many of the reforms of the Regency period, these were rejected by more conservative forces, and the Duke was disgraced and dismissed from the Council in 1718. He did not return to favour and to military command until the War of Polish Succession (1733-35), during which he was promoted to Marshal of France. A few years later the War of Austrian Succession broke out, and Noailles was named Commander-in-Chief of the Army of Germany—though he suffered a terrible defeat by British and Austrian forces at Dettingen in 1743. Earlier that same year, he had been appointed Minister of State by Louis XV, and in 1744 served as Minister for Foreign Affairs, but only for a few months. He resigned from his post on the King’s Council in 1756, and died a decade later, nearly 90 years old.

Adrien-Maurice, 3rd Duke of Noailles, Marshal of France

The 3rd Duke’s other significant contribution was territorial, in marrying—like his sisters—into the extended illegitimate side of the French royal family: Françoise-Charlotte d’Aubigné was the niece and universal heiress of Madame de Maintenon, and received from her in 1718 the Marquisate of Maintenon, about 50 km southwest of Versailles. The Château of Maintenon had been built in the thirteenth century by an eponymous family of feudal lords, transformed into a more fashionable residence by the Angennes family in the sixteenth century, then remodelled again for the secret wife of Louis XIV in the 1680s. It had three round towers and a moat connected to the nearby river Eure; its gardens were given a royal makeover by the King’s gardener, Le Nôtre. Since 1983 it has been gifted to a foundation that looks after French patrimony (Fondation Mansart) and is managed for visitors by the local council.

Françoise-Charlotte d’Aubigné, Duchess of Noailles, holding a portrait of her aunt, Madame de Maintenon
the Chateau of Maintenon today with its baroque gardens

In Paris itself, the 3rd Duke acquired a grand residence on rue Saint-Honoré with gardens that backed onto the gardens of the Tuileries Palace in 1711, built in the 1670s and now renamed the Hôtel de Noailles. Confiscated during the Revolution, it was restored to the family in 1815, but soon sold and demolished to make way for the development of the rue de Rivoli.

The Hôtel de Noailles in Paris

As with previous generations, more than one son of the Marshal-Duke of Noailles made his name at court and in the military. Both Louis and Philippe were promoted to the rank of Marshal of France—on the same day in 1775—and both ranked at court as dukes: Noailles and Poix. Louis, 4th Duke of Noailles, was initially known as the Count of Ayen as heir to his father—but as the latter lived so long and showed no signs of declining, the King created a new duchy of Ayen for Louis in 1737. After his father’s death in 1766, he assumed the senior ducal title of Noailles and passed the junior title of Ayen to his own eldest son. He also succeeded his father as Governor of Roussillon and Captain of the King’s Guard. He was close to Louis XV and served as his aide-de-camp when the King went to war personally in the 1740s; later that decade he joined the small social circle of the King’s new mistress, Madame de Pompadour. In contrast, his sister the Duchess of Villars was part of the Queen’s inner circle, in service as a lady-in-waiting for nearly forty years—she too was there to receive and educate the young Marie-Antoinette when she arrived from Vienna in 1770. In 1789, the 4th Duke of Noailles was named governor of the Château of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, mirroring his brother’s position as governor of the Château of Versailles. He died of old age just before the Terror in August 1793; but his wife, daughter-in-law and granddaughter were all executed in July 1794. Another granddaughter, Adrienne, wife of the famous Marquis de La Fayette, was also imprisoned at this time and narrowly missed the guillotine only to find herself living in prison again by the end of the year, this time in Austria.

Louis, 1st Duke of Ayen, then 4th Duke of Noailles
a Romantic image of Lafayette his wife Adrienne de Noailles and their daughters in prison

Her father, Jean-Louis, 5th Duke of Noailles, also survived the Revolution, having emigrated when things heated up for the nobility in 1792. He had been a lieutenant-general in the army and a member of the Academy of Sciences in the 1770s-80s, and in general had been known for his progressive views, as was his brother, Emmanuel-Marie, Marquis de Noailles (also known as the Marquis de Maintenon), who had had a long diplomatic career in the Old Regime, as ambassador to the Dutch Republic, to Great Britain and then to Austria for nearly a decade—including the early years of the Revolution, a critical period in Franco-Austrian relations. Just as his brother was leaving France, the Marquis was recalled from Vienna and imprisoned during the Terror but was not executed. He later became a supporter of Napoleon’s Empire of the French and was created a Count of the Empire in 1813. Both brothers lived well into the Restoration period, and the 5th Duke was succeeded in 1824 by his great-nephew, Paul.

Paul, 6th Duke of Noailles, was head of the family for fifty years. He was a historian, writing a history of his ancestor, Madame de Maintenon, in four volumes (amongst other works), and weas elected to the French Academy in 1849. He also cultivated progressive business interests and was president of two railroad companies. He left two sons: the elder, Jules-Charles, became 7th Duke of Noailles, while the younger, Emmanuel-Henri, continued the family’s diplomatic tradition, and served as ambassador to the United States, to Italy, to the Ottoman Empire and to Germany from 1896 to 1902. He was also a historian and wrote a large history of Poland.

Paul, 6th Duke of Noailles

The 7th Duke of Noailles spent most of his life as Duke of Ayen (as heir), then was head of the family for only ten years, 1885 to 1895. He had acquired by marriage in 1851 a new country residence for the family, the gorgeous eighteenth-century Château de Champlâtreux in the Val-d’Oise, northwest of Paris. Initially constructed by the Molé family of Paris parlementaires (and financed by money from the immense succession of the famous banker Samuel Bernard), it has remained the main Noailles residence ever since, and is visitable in the summers.

Château de Champlâtreux

His son, Adrien, was 8th Duke until 1953, residing at the Château de Maintenon and participating in early Olympic Games, as an equestrian, as did one of his daughters, in tennis. His son and heir, Jean, Duke of Ayen, was also a sportsman, competing in shooting, then made his name as a leader of the Paris Resistance and died in the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp in April 1945, just days before the end of the war. It was his wife, Solange d’Ayen, that is mentioned at the start of this post. Their son Adrien-Maurice also died during the war, fighting in the Maquis in October 1944.

a memorial photo of Jean, Duke of Ayen, at the Chateau of Maintenon

The title thus passed to the 8th Duke’s nephew, François, who died in 2009—at age 103!—and was succeeded by his son Hélie, the 10th and current Duke of Noailles (b. 1943). He had a career in the 1970s-80s in government and in diplomacy—notably with a stint in the embassy in Washington DC, 1982-86. Further American ties were made when, as a distant link by marriage to the Marquis de La Fayette, he was chosen to be President of the French Sons of the American Revolution. His heir is Emmanuel, Duke of Ayen, born in Washington DC in 1983.

Hélie, 10th Duke of Noailles

We must scoot back to the eighteenth century and to the creation of the second major branch of the House of Noailles. The younger brother of the 4th Duke of Noailles, Philippe, was at first called ‘Comte de Noailles’, but in 1729 he inherited a property from his aunt by marriage that had a curious rank (by French standards) the ‘principality’ of Poix. That same year, though still a minor, he was appointed to the very prestigious post of Governor of the Château of Versailles, with responsibilities ranging from security to staffing to building works. The Prince of Poix took over this role fully as an adult from 1740; then in 1746 accompanied his father on an embassy to Spain and was honoured with the rank of Grandee of Spain and the title ‘Duque de Mouchy’ in 1747. This was certainly a nod from the Spanish king for all the work done by the Noailles family in Franco-Spanish relations in the past century, and now in helping to secure the Bourbon dynasty on its still relatively new throne in Madrid. But this ducal title did not give Philippe de Noailles a peerage, with a seat in the Parlement of Paris, nor did the principality of Poix (see below); so in 1767, Louis XV created a new duchy-peerage called Poix, and confirmed the earlier title of ‘Prince of Poix’, though still with only vague legal ramifications. Late in life, the 1st Duke of Mouchy and Duke of Poix was appointed Governor of Guyenne (1775), as well as Marshal of France, and resigned the post of Governor of Versailles to his son and heir, who became known as the ‘Prince of Poix’ (1778).

Philippe de Noailles, 1st Duke of Mouchy, Prince & Duke of Poix, Marshal of France

The castle and village of Poix in the southwest corner of Picardy (near the border with Normandy) was the centre of a lordship as early as the eleventh century. Like some other powerful lordships in border zones, its lords started to use the title ‘prince’ (in this case as early as 1153), a title suggesting they had no other superior lord in the feudal hierarchy; this was even confirmed by Louis XII in 1504. For nearly four hundred years, Poix was held by the Tyrel family, who had an interesting role in the trans-national Anglo-Norman story: an early Tyrel lord accompanied William of Normandy in the Conquest of England and was rewarded with lands, especially in Essex; Gautier II (aka Walter Tirel or Tyrrell) was a companion of William II of England and was accused of complacency in the ‘accidental’ murder of the King while out hunting in the New Forest in 1100. Walter fled to France and denied any guilt, and ultimately the family returned to royal favour, with Walter’s grandson Hugh Tyrel taking part in Henry II’s invasion of Ireland in the 1170s. When the Tyrels died out in 1417, the Principality of Poix passed via various people until it was held by the Créquy family who elevated the property into a duchy (with the name ‘Créquy’) in 1652. It then passed by descent and purchase to Philippe de Noailles, who became, as we’ve seen, ‘Prince of Poix’. The ancient castle by now was a ruin, and today survives as a farm with buildings rented out for wedding receptions.

William Tirel riding away from the death of King William Rufus of England, a lithograph from 1895

Meanwhile, Philippe de Noailles’ other title took its name from the lordship of Mouchy-le-Châtel, also northwest of Paris in Picardy. It too was a very early barony, from about 1100, held by a local family, Trie, for many centuries. In the 1630s it passed to the family of Louise Boyer, who, as above, married into the Noailles family in 1645. The ancient château from the twelfth century crumbled over the centuries, but was restored in the nineteenth century as part of the great neo-gothic revival—and inspired the same architects when they were designing Waddesdon Manor in Buckinghamshire, England. Severely damaged in the Second World War, the remains of the once very grand Château de Mouchy were demolished in 1961, leaving only a round tower and terrace, along with family tombs. A short distance to the west, one of the villages that was part of the estate, Longvillers, that was situated on the important road from Paris to Calais was renamed ‘Noailles’ by the Duke of Mouchy in about 1750. He opened a new market here, and over the next century the his descendants developed the town as a place of industry. In Paris, the Duke established his residence on the rue de l’Université, in the faubourg Saint-Germain—this Hôtel de Noailles-Mouchy, with a very large garden, was later confiscated and incorporated into the buildings of the Ministry of War.

The Chateau of Mouchy in the 1930s

The 1st Duke of Mouchy had two sons. The younger, Louis-Marie, Vicomte de Noailles, married the daughter of the Duke of Noailles, then joined his brother-in-law the Marquis de La Fayette as a military volunteer in the American Revolution. Back in France, he retained some of this revolutionary fervour and was an avid member of the Constituent Assembly of 1790-91 (the body working to write a new constitution for France), even serving as its president in February 1791. But as the Revolution radicalised and targeted aristocrats—whether they were supporters or not—he emigrated in 1792. His wife did not and she was executed in the Terror in 1794. The Vicomte later returned to France and joined the navy, and was killed in battle versus the British near Cuba in 1804.

The Vicomte de Noailles as hero of the War of American Independence, by Gilbert Stuart (1798)

His older brother Philippe-Louis, Prince of Poix, took over their father’s roles: as Captain of the King’s Bodyguard from 1775 and Governor of Versailles from 1778. In his capacity as Captain of the Hunt of Versailles, in 1787, Poix built a hunting lodge adjacent to the Great Park, “La Lanterne”—probably named for the great light on top of the King’s menagerie nearby. In the nineteenth century, the pavilion was used by officers of the royal horse farm and stables; after the Second World War, it was the residence of the American Ambassador then the President of the National Assembly, before it became the official country residence for the Prime Minister of France, and since 2007, the President of the Republic.

the Pavillion ‘La Lanterne’ near Versailles in 1926

The Prince of Poix supported the reforms demanded in the summer of 1789, but became disillusioned sooner than his brother and emigrated in 1790. His father and mother, the 1st Duke and Duchess of Mouchy, were both guillotined in the summer of 1794, alongside several other members of the family, as noted above. The new 2nd Duke of Mouchy returned to France in 1800, but was not returned to prominent posts until the restoration of the Bourbons in 1814: once more Captain of the Gardes du Corps and Governor of the Château of Versailles. He was formally created Duke of Mouchy in the peerage of France in 1817 (so, no longer relying on the Spanish creation), and died in 1819.

Philippe-Louis, Prince of Poix, then 2nd Duke of Mouchy

Charles, 3rd Duke of Mouchy, died relatively young in 1834, and was succeeded by his brother, Just, who had already had a prominent career as a supporter of the Napoleonic Empire: he married one of Tallyrand’s nieces in 1803 which connected him to the inner circle at court; was appointed Napoleon’s chamberlain in 1806 and a Count of the Empire in 1810. At the Restoration he was appointed Ambassador to Russia (1814-19), France’s key ally at this time. He lived only for a decade as 4th Duke of Mouchy and died in 1846.

Charles, 3rd Duke of Mouchy
Just, 4th Duke of Mouchy

Their cousin, Alexis, Count of Noailles, was more active in politics—the orphaned son of the executed Anne de Noailles and the war-hero Louis-Marie de Noailles (above), he grew up hating the Revolution and all it stood for. He joined the court in exile of Louis XVIII in 1810, the served as aide-de-camp to the King of Sweden (former Marshal Bernadotte) against the armies of Napoleon in 1813, and was appointed aide-de-camp of the King’s brother, the Count of Artois, in 1814. Artois was the leader of the very conservative royalist faction at court (the ‘Ultras’) and Count Alexis became one of his mouthpieces in the National Assembly as a deputy and a member of a very conservative group, the ‘Chevaliers de la Foi’ (the knights of the faith). He continued to support Artois when he succeeded as king (Charles X) in 1824, but lost influence in government (and his seat) after the conservative king was deposed in the July Revolution of 1830.

Alexis, Count of Noailles

There’s not much to report about the 5th Duke of Mouchy (Charles-Philippe) who died in 1854, nor his son the 6th Duke (Antoine), who died in 1909. The latter was a Bonapartist politician, even after the fall of the Second Empire and into the Third Republic (and he married a Murat, so was distantly related to the Imperial family). His son and heir, François, Prince of Poix, died nine years before his father, but also made an interesting marriage, to Madeleine Dubois de Courval, heiress of a grand château of Pinon in Aisne (eastern Picardy). Badly damaged in the Great War, it was rebuilt in a very modern style, which brings us to the twentieth century.

Antoine, 6th Duke of Mouchy, as a young man
the Chateau of Pinon before 1914

The twentieth-century Mouchy branch was led by the 7th Duke (Henri), until 1947, then his son the 8th Duke (Philippe, d. 2011), and now the 9th Duke (Antoine), born in 1950. His son Charles, Prince of Poix, was born in 1984. The 9th Duke’s brother Alexis, Vicomte de Noailles, linked the family more closely to the former royal family itself through his marriage in 2004 to Princess Diane d’Orléans, daughter of the Duke of Orléans. Moving back one generation, the 8th Duke of Mouchy married Joan Dillon, daughter of the American ambassador to France (and later Secretary of the Treasury), widow of Prince Charles of Luxembourg (also a Bourbon through his father), and became one of the managers of her family business, Haut-Brion, near Bordeaux, one of the premier wineries in France.

Philippe, 8th Duke of Mouchy, and Joan Dillon
the Chateau of Haut-Brion, near Bordeaux

Back another generation, we return to the brother of the 7th Duke, Charles, Vicomte de Noailles, and his wife, Marie-Laure. The daughter of the Bischoffsheims, Jewish bankers from Belgium, the new vicomtesse’s religion already would have scandalised some in French high society. But the couple’s eccentric lifestyle for years cultivated an amazing roster of artists, from Cocteau to Picasso to Man Ray, who gathered at their Villa Noailles at Hyères on the French Riviera. Built in 1923-25 in the ‘moderne’ or functionalist style, it also had a ‘cubist’ garden. Marie-Laure in particular had intimate relations with some of her protegés, described by some as ‘platonic affairs’ with mostly homosexual men. She died in 1970, and her husband eleven years later.

Charles, Vicomte de Noailles
Marie-Laure, painted by Balthus
the Villa Noailles in Hyères on the French Riviera

From Picardy to Provence and from Limousin to Versailles, the Noailles family has certainly left its mark on the history of France!

Compton—Not quite dukes, but marquesses of Northampton

There’s a fairly common surname in England and America, Compton, and if you want to think it might once upon a time have been connected to the old Anglo-Norman aristocracy, as derived from an old French word connected to accounting (comptant), that’s not a bad deduction; but it just as easily could be derived, like so many English names, from the more mundane world of agriculture: the old English cum tun a farm or settlement in a narrow valley (or coombe). Unsurprisingly, there are lots of small villages in England with this name, especially in the south and west.

village sign for Compton in Surrey

Of those Comptons associated with noble titles, the most prominent are the Comptons of Warwickshire, who rose very fast due to great royal favour in the Tudor era and ultimately became earls, then marquises of Northampton, and remain so today—with two very grand family seats: Compton Wynyates in Warwickshire, and Ashby Castle in Northamptonshire. This post will mostly be about them, even though they did not reach the very top of the peerage, the dukedom.

Other noble seats with the same name include the very famous Compton Verney (also in Warwickshire), the seat of the Verney family—today home to a wonderful art gallery. Compton Beauchamp House is a baroque mansion in southwest Oxfordshire. There’s a medieval Compton Castle in South Devon, home to a Compton family in the Middle Ages, but more known as the long-term seat of the Gilbert family. Compton Pauncefoot Castle in Somerset was built for the Hunt family in 1820s, and later became the seat of a baronetcy, Mason of Compton Pauncefoot (1918), whose family were later raised to the title Baron Blackford (1935), before going extinct in 1988. There was also a different Compton baronetcy, of Hartpury (Gloucestershire), granted in 1686. Though they went extinct in 1773, they may have left some distant cousins too poor or too distant to claim the title, as this family was known to have perennial financial difficulties, in part stemming from their status in the seventeenth century (at least) as recusant Catholics.

Compton Castle, Devon

This leads me to pure speculation, and one of the reasons for justifying this post connecting the noble Comptons of Northampton to my own family (my mother’s surname). In the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, a large number of junior members of the gentry or lower nobility of England emigrated to the colonies to escape financial or religious difficulties. Unlike France or Germany where noble status was always transmittable to male descendants—no matter how far away from the main line you got—in England only the head of a family was noble, so younger sons could sit in the House of Commons, could enter trade without social or legal impunity, and could easily ‘fall out’ of the upper social orders and become yeoman farmers, or worse, could speculate on investments and lose everything. Many Americans who research their family trees are able to trace their ancestry back to the English aristocracy through this route, though records are often patchy, and some records that do exist should be considered dubious. So my fantasy—I should reiterate, based on no evidence at all—is that it could be possible that one of these poor younger sons, deprived of an inheritance by the system of entail so prevalent in England in this period, and maybe fleeing persecution as a Catholic, managed to travel to America and establish a life there. He wouldn’t be the only one of my ancestors to flee religious persecution to the New World—see my previous blog post about anabaptists from Germany.

What I do know is that a certain Ezekiel Compton (or Cumpton) was born in the colony of New Jersey in 1773, perhaps in Hunterdon County in the Delaware Valley, and moved in about 1800 to the newly established Berkeley County, Virginia. The county was named for a popular governor Norborne Berkeley (who had died in 1770), who came from Gloucestershire in England, so maybe had some connections to English settlers whose families also came from there like the Comptons of Hartpury? The other interesting coincidence is that General Daniel Morgan also came to this area of Virginia (though many years before) from Hunterdon County, New Jersey. Morgan’s grandparents had emigrated from Wales (which borders Gloucestershire), and he settled in Frederick County, Virginia, which was then divided to create Berkeley County in 1772, and then divided again in 1820 to create a new county, which was named for Morgan himself, as a hero of the American Revolution. What is now Morgan County had long been popular with Native Americans for its warm springs bubbling out of the Potomac Highlands, which drew its first settlers, Germans from the Delaware Valley, in about the 1730. The town that grew up around the main springs was called Bath, after the city in England (in Gloucestershire, coincidence?)—but was renamed Berkeley Springs by about 1802.

A view of Berkeley Springs State Park today

I too lived in Gloucestershire for a bit in the early part of this century, but I can’t say I felt any deep ancestral tingles there.

Ezekiel Compton died in 1860, and three years later, Morgan County became part of the new state of West Virginia. His son John, born in Berkeley County, died only five years later. John’s son William was known as ‘Doc’—for what reason I do not know—and married a local girl, Martina Casler, whose family takes my lineage back yet again to the Palatinate in Germany. Her ancestor Michael Casler (or Kessler, the surname for a coppersmith) emigrated to north-western Virginia in the 1760s and bought land from Lord Fairfax on Sir Johns Run, near Berkeley Springs, land that eventually became Morgan County. They had five sons, some with intriguing names (Hamil, Leonidus and Newton), and around the turn of the twentieth century, several of these migrated to Washington DC at time when jobs were plentiful as the national capital was finally starting to develop into a real city. Leonidus, who went by his middle name, Smith, married another local girl from back in Berkeley Springs, Virginia Alderton, whose first cousin had married her husband’s sister (and they too moved to Washington). The Aldertons had also settled in the area that’s now Morgan County as early as 1750. One of the more interesting stories to appear when I was looking into this family history is that of Virginia’s uncle, Reverend Thomas Alderton, a Methodist preacher in Great Cacapon, West Virginia, who died in the pulpit, at nearly 7 feet tall and over 300 pounds (says his obituary in The Washington Post from 1906)! Smith and Virginia in turn had a large family of four girls and two boys—one of these, Ralph, was my grandad. Ralph Compton worked for the US government in the boom years of the 1930s-40s and earned enough to send his two sons and one daughter—my mother—to college. His career was in accounting and several of my cousins are today in related fields with very mathematical brains, so I’ve often joked that maybe there was a ‘comptant’ gene in the family after all (and not a ‘farm in a narrow valley’ gene!).

L. Smith Compton and Virginia Alderton, my great-grandparents

So do I think my Comptons are related to those in Warwickshire or Gloucestershire? Not really. But it could be fun. Maybe one of the earls of the later seventeenth century had an illegitimate son who, shunned by society in London, sought his fortune in the colonies?

Heading for more solid historical ground, we can look at the story of the Compton marquesses of Northampton as a good example of how to shimmy up the pole of the English aristocracy pretty quick if you enjoy royal favour. And the first who really rose to great prominence was indeed great mates with one of the most notorious promoters of new men: Henry VIII. Sir William Compton descended from local gentry with deep roots in rural Warwickshire stretching back to about 1200, and was appointed as a boy to be a page in the household of the Duke of York. When the Duke became King Henry VIII in 1509, he appointed his childhood friend to the extremely important position of Groom of the Stool—the person most trusted to attend the monarch in his most private moments (and I don’t mean sex). Compton became one of the central figures of the Tudor court, and features heavily in the TV dramatization, played by Kris Holden-Ried (maybe not as memorable as Henry Cavill, but a big presence, nonetheless). He accompanied the King on his Flanders campaign of 1513 and was knighted. Over the years he was richly rewarded with lands all over England and offices including the wardenship of Windsor Great Park, Chief Gentleman of the Bedchamber, and even a short stint as Chancellor of Ireland (1513-16). He married an heiress, Werburge Brereton, who was heiress of both her father’s lands in Sussex, and lands from her mother, Katherine Berkeley, in Gloucestershire.

Sir William Compton and his family

In 1515, Henry VIII gave William Compton the ruined Fulbroke Castle in Warwickshire, southwest of the town of Warwick, which he used as a sort of Ikea for castles, bringing back various ornamental bits to his family’s ancestral seat, further to the south in the same county, Compton Wynyates. This had been a Compton property since about 1200, rebuilt by William’s father in more fashionable brick, with four wings around a quadrangle. William now added a great porch, a chapel, and those twisty chimneys so associated with Tudor style. Compton Wynyates hosted numerous royal visits in the next two centuries—Henry VIII, Elizabeth, James I, Charles I—but it suffered during the English Civil War and the family mostly moved to another property, Ashby Castle, which they modernised and developed, meaning that Compton Wynyates is one of the most well-preserved Tudor houses in England. It was restored by the family in the nineteenth century, to be used as the home for the heir, but it always remained the second home, until the 1980s when Ashby Castle was opened for tourism, and Compton Wynyates became the principal, and still very private, family home.

Compton Wynyates, Warwickshire

But the King’s great pal William Compton died of the sweating sickness before he reached fifty. His baby son Peter was put into wardship, first under Cardinal Wolsey, then under the Earl of Shrewsbury, who married him off to his own daughter, Lady Anne Talbot. This meant the Comptons were not only connected to the Talbots, one of England’s premier families, but also, via the bride’s grandmother, Lady Katherine Stafford, to the Plantagenets and the royal family itself. But Peter died very young in 1544, leaving just one son, Henry.

Henry Compton, like his father, married extremely well. In the reign of Elizabeth, his first wife was Lady Frances Hastings, whose father was the Earl of Huntingdon, but whose mother was Katherine Pole, granddaughter of the Countess of Salisbury (niece of Richard III), meaning again that the Comptons were getting a healthy dollop of Plantagenet blood. He became an MP for Old Sarum in Wiltshire. In 1572, royal favour allowed him to move out of the House of Commons and into the House of Lords as Baron Compton of Compton Wynyates. He married a second time in about 1575, Anne Spencer, who, unlike his first wife, was from a relatively new family like his own, raised up to great prominence by favour with the Tudors, and owning significant agricultural lands in the county next door to Warwickshire, Northamptonshire.

the very distinctive Compton arms, with three helms and a golden lion

Here Henry, Baron Compton, acquired a new family seat: Castle Ashby, a few miles southeast of the city of Northampton. The original manor house, built by the bishop of Coventry, dated back to the early fourteenth century. Lord Compton acquired it in the 1570s, and rebuilt it as an ‘Elizabethan prodigy house’, a princely mansion with space to house over eighty servants, surrounded by an estate that covered several villages. The house was given a grand palladian front enclosing the courtyard in the 1770s. It is still quite grand today, but the house is not open to the public (just the gardens).

Castle Ashby, Northamptonshire

Henry Compton died in 1589 leaving three sons. The youngest, Henry, established a secondary branch of the family in the old Brereton estates in Sussex. The second son, Sir Thomas, made an interesting marriage in 1609 as the third husband of Mary Beaumont, the widow of Sir George Villiers and mother of the soon-to-be great favourite of King James, George, Duke of Buckingham—again, as seen recently in a television drama (Mary & George, in which old Sir Thomas does not really come over too well). [see previous blog post on the Villiers family]. Meanwhile, the eldest son, William, made a much better marriage—in terms of finance if not status—but apparently had to fight to get it.  Elizabeth Spencer—not related, I think, to the Spencers of Northamptonshire—was the only child of Sir John Spencer, Lord Mayor of London and one of the richest men in Elizabethan England. He opposed the marriage of his daughter to the 2nd Baron Compton, who had, it so happened, borrowed a huge amount of money from Spencer so considered getting a dowry and her inheritance would be a great way to cancel this debt. As the story goes, in about 1599, Compton used his influence at court to arrange for old Sir John to be arrested on charges of mistreating his daughter, then abducted Elizabeth—it was said by lowering her in a baker’s basket from her window in Canonbury Tower. Sir John disowned his daughter, but gradually was reconciled once she had a child and his heart softened.

Canonbury Tower in Islington, London

Canonbury House, in Islington, north London, became the new jewel in the Compton real estate crown. It had been a priory, part of the huge monastic complex of St Bartholomew’s, named after its canons (though sometimes called ‘Canbury’). When monastic lands were confiscated in the 1540s, the estate was given to the Dudleys, then passed to others before it was acquired by Spencer in 1570 (and he rebuilt the house on a grander scale in the 1590s). William and Elizabeth didn’t move in here, however—he was too much in favour at court so needed to be closer to King James—but leased it out, notably to Sir Francis Bacon. The family did start to live here after the 1650s. In the eighteenth century the mansion was redeveloped into several smaller houses (again leased out, some to very famous lodgers). One of these became known as Northampton House by the 1850s. Other areas became sportsgrounds. The Tower of Canonbury remained, however, and is still the only major Tudor era building in Islington, restored by the 5th Marquess of Northampton in about 1910. It still has a ‘Spencer Room’ and a ‘Compton Room’. The London estate is owned by the family trust and includes a pub called the Compton Arms.

As William Compton rose in favour with King James, he was rewarded: in 1617 he was given the very prestigious and powerful post of Lord President of the Marches and Dominion of Wales (with jurisdiction over all of Wales, plus the bordering counties), and a year later elevated in title to Earl of Northampton. Though one of the family seats was in this midlands county, it is thought that this title was selected due to William’s descent from the earls of Huntingdon, who had at one point also been earls of Northampton, way back in the eleventh and twelfth centuries. Northampton was in fact one of the most ancient earldoms in all of England, a fact that would come into play again later.

William Compton, 1st Earl of Northampton

The first Earl of Northampton died in 1630, leaving just one son, with the very distinctive first name ‘Spencer’. This name will recur a lot in the next three centuries of family history, and although it derives from Sir John Spencer in London, it probably also gave a bit of caché to the family in Northamptonshire as the other major county family, the Spencers of Althorp, rose higher and higher in the social hierarchy. The 2nd Earl became another royal favourite—this time as Master of the Robes to Charles, Prince of Wales, 1621, and accompanying him on his famous trip to Spain in 1623 to try (and fail) to woo a Spanish infanta. Later in life, the 2nd Earl became a prominent Royalist commander in the Civil War and was killed at the Battle of Hopton Heath in Shropshire. He had married Mary Beaumont, the niece of the earlier Mary Beaumont, and thus first cousin to the Duke of Buckingham.

The 2nd Earl had six sons, several of whom were prominent Royalist commanders in the war. The eldest, James, became the 3rd Earl of Northampton and managed to lie low during the Commonwealth so his lands were not confiscated. At the Restoration of 1660, he was restored to his family’s now fairly hereditary position of Lord Lieutenant of Warwickshire, and later was given the post of Constable of the Tower of London, and member of the Privy Council. But he was never a major political figure and was sidelined in 1679 when tension rose between those who supported and those who feared the succession of the King’s Catholic brother, James, Duke of York.

the 3rd Earl of Northampton as a young man

Indeed the 3rd Earl’s youngest brother, Henry, became one of the chief opponents of the Duke of York once he became King James II. Henry Compton joined the church as a young man and was appointed Bishop of Oxford in 1674, then transferred to London in 1675. He was also given the post of Dean of the Chapel Royal and a seat on the Privy Council, as well as the task of overseeing the education of the royal princesses Mary and Anne, daughters of the Duke of York. As the reign of Charles II waned in the 1680s, the Bishop of London worked to bring dissenters back into the Church of England, but only low church Protestants or Presbyterians, not Catholics—so when James II became King in 1685, his anti-Catholic stance became a liability, and he was dismissed from the Privy Council and the Deanship. He therefore joined the opposition in the House of Lords and became one of the ‘Immortal Seven’ who wrote a letter to William, Prince of Orange, in June 1688, inviting him to invade England in order to remove the perceived threat of an absolutist and pro-Catholic regime. The Bishop of London then performed the coronation of William and Mary in April 1689, since the Archbishop of Canterbury would not do it. Henry Compton is one of my favourite Comptons as he became the first Chancellor of the College of William & Mary in Virginia—my alma mater—which he helped found in 1693. Although he remained a central figure in the reigns of William and Mary and of Queen Anne, and involved, for example, in the commission that drew up the official acts of union between England and Scotland in 1707, he was passed over twice for promotion to the top job, archbishop of Canterbury, which irked him.

Henry Compton, Bishop of London

This brings us into the eighteenth century and the next great Compton politician, Spencer Compton, younger brother of the 4th Earl of Northampton. The 4th Earl, George, was Lord Lieutenant of Warwickshire and Constable of the Tower, but led a fairly quiet life. His brother Spencer, in contrast, became a Member of Parliament in 1698 and a close ally of Walpole—a Whig, which went against the Compton family’s traditional Tory stance. Rising with Walpole, Compton was named Speaker of the Commons, 1715, a Privy Councillor in 1716, and Treasurer of the Household of the Prince of Wales. When Walpole became essentially Britain’s first Prime Minister, Compton was appointed Lord Privy Seal, and in 1728 moved to the House of Lords as Baron Wilmington, of Wilmington (Sussex). By this point, political winds changed, and he became one of Walpole’s chief opponents—but he continued to rise in royal favour: created Earl of Wilmington and Viscount Pevensey (also in Sussex) in 1730, and Lord President of the Council. Finally he succeeded Walpole as Prime Minister and First Lord of the Treasury in 1742. He only held these posts for a year before he died. Unmarried and childless, his titles became extinct. His name lives on however in the city of Wilmington in Delaware.

Spencer Compton, Earl of Wilmington

In the 1720s, Spencer Compton purchased the Jacobean mansion of Borne Place on the seaside in Eastbourne, Sussex and rebuilt it along baroque lines. Renamed Compton Place, it became his chief country retreat from London politics. Later it passed back to the main line of Compton earls, then in the 1750s by marriage into the Cavendish family: the dukes of Devonshire still own it today.

Compton Place, Sussex

The next four earls of Northampton were fairly unremarkable. James, the 5th Earl, had married an heiress, Elizabeth Shirley, who succeeded in her own right as Baroness Ferrers of Chartley. They had only a daughter, Charlotte, who thus took the barony of Compton and that of Ferrers by marriage into the Townshend family (later elevated to the rank of marquess). The earldom passed to the next brother, George, who died only four years later (1758) and passed the earldom to his nephew, Charles. The 7th Earl married a society beauty, Lady Anne Somerset, daughter of the Duke of Beaufort, and they were both set to take up a romantic post in the British embassy in Venice when he suddenly died in October 1763, only 26 years old—predeceased by his equally young wife a few months earlier in Naples. Again there was only a daughter (later married to Lord Burlington), so the earldom moved sideways once more, to Spencer, 8th Earl of Northampton.

the 7th Earl of Northampton

The 8th Earl was a Groom of the Bedchamber to George III in the early years of his reign, but became a rather extravagant spender, so that by the mid-1770s he was forced to live abroad, in Switzerland where it was much cheaper. It was also probably to avoid the scandal of having taken as a second wife, Anne Hougham, the daughter of a London linen-draper. He died in 1796, leaving his son Charles mostly a lot of debt.

Charles, 9th Earl of Northampton, had one thing in his favour, however: his aunt Catherine had married John Perceval, Earl of Egmont, and their son Spencer Perceval was a rising star in government and Prime Minister from 1809. Compton asked his cousin to raise his peerage title up a grade to marquess, with the argument that it was one of the ‘ancient earldoms’ of England (which it was) so should stand out more against the ever-increasing number of earldoms that had been created in the later eighteenth century. Spencer Perceval agreed, but was assassinated in May 1812, leaving the actual creation to his successor, Lord Liverpool. The first Marquess of Northampton’s subsidiary titles were Earl Compton (used by the heir) and Baron Wilmington.

Charles Compton, 1st Marquess of Northampton

Spencer, 2nd Marquess of Northampton, inherited this new title in 1828. He had lived in Italy since 1820, and championed liberal movements in Lombardy and Naples (sort of like Lord Byron fighting for independence of Greece at the same time). He returned to England in 1830 and became a vocal reformer in the House of Lords. He was also a keen scientist and headed up several societies, in particular for geology—he was interested in the earliest discoveries of dinosaur fossils and even had a type of stegosaurus named for him. He was President of the Royal Society, 1838-48, and died shortly after.

the 2nd Marquess of Northampton

The 3rd and 4th marquesses were brothers. They also had a younger brother, Lord Alwyne, who became Lord High Almoner to Queen Victoria in 1882, and Bishop of Ely in 1886. The 3rd Marquess, Charles, was known mostly for his work restoring Compton Wynyates in the 1860s. William, 4th Marquess, had a long naval carer, with service in the Far East, until he succeeded to his brother’s titles in 1877. In 1894, he donated lands in Clerkenwell, another estate in London (south of Canonbury and Islington), to create the Northampton Institute, which eventually evolved into the City University of London. He died in 1897.

Northampton Institute, Clerkenwell, London

As a sizeable landowner in north London—the district of Clerkenwell still bears the street names of Northampton, Spencer and Compton—William, 5th Marquess of Northampton, took an active part in the organisation of the new London County Council in the 1890s. He had been a diplomat in the 1870s, and resumed this function in a more honorary way in 1910 as special envoy to the courts of Europe to announce the accession of George V. He died three years later, having added to the family’s fortunes by marrying one of the heiresses of Barings Bank.

the 5th Marquess of Northampton

In contrast to this marriage, a year before his father’s death, William, Earl Compton, had become engaged to an actress who gave birth to twins—but once he acceded to the marquisate, he backed out. She sued for breach of promise and was awarded £50,000. The 6th Marquess then went on to marry three times and divorce twice. This is not, I hasten to add, unusual for the British aristocracy of the 20th century (in fact his son, married six times!). The 6th Marquess served in the First World War as a major in the Royal Horse Guards, then spent much of his career in local affairs, as lieutenant-colonel of the Warwickshire yeomanry in the 1920s, and as chairman of the Northamptonshire County Council in the early 1950s. He died in 1978 at the ripe old age of 93. His son Spencer (‘Spenny’) is the 7th and current Marquess of Northampton. He is one of the richest men in the UK, with estates valued at about £120 million. So although not a duke or prince, he certainly lives like one. He is known for having an astute eye in the buying and selling of treasures, from Renaissance art to ancient buried Roman silver. The succession is secure in his son Daniel, Earl Compton (b. 1973), and grandson Henry, Lord Wilmington (b. 2018).

Spencer Compton, the 7th Marquess of Northampton, at Compton Wynyates

Before concluding, we can look at the current Marquess’s cousins, who, though having no title at all, also live like dukes and princes. The youngest brother of the 5th Marquess, Lord Alwyne Compton, was a Unionist politician (opposed to the separation of Ireland from the United Kingdom). In 1886 he married Mary de Grey Vyner, heiress of Newby Hall, Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal, all in Yorkshire. Their two sons divided these properties, with the younger taking the surname Vyner and starting a new subbranch (and marrying very well, the daughter of the Duke of Lennox). The ruined abbey at Fountains and its Elizabethan house are now part of the National Trust, while the Wren-inspired Newby Hall remains a Compton family seat.

Newby Hall, Yorkshire

Newby Hall passed to a younger son, as the elder son, Edward, took the family in another direction entirely by marrying Silvia Farquharson, daughter and eventual heir of the 14th Laird of Invercauld, the Chief of Clan Farquharson. The lands of the Farquharsons (pronounced like Ferguson) are in Deeside, in the County of Aberdeen. In 1949, Alwyne Compton, now Farquharson, was recognised by the Lord Lyon as head of the Clan. He was a lifelong friend of Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, and his lordly estate in Invercauld is quite close to the royal family’s estates at Balmoral. The 16th Laird of Invercauld died in 2021—at 102!—and passed the estates and titles to his great-nephew, Philip Farquharson (b. 1980). Philip’s cousins picked up another part of their Scottish inheritance and changed their surname to Maclean, and took up residence at Torloisk on Mull.

Alwyne Farquharson, Clan Chief, 16th Laird of Invercauld
Invercauld Castle, Deeside

Another set of cousins brought the family even close into the orbit of today’s British royal family. Alwyne Farquharson’s twin sister, Mary Compton, married a millionaire horse-breeder from Suffolk, Bernard van Cutsem. The family hailed from a long line of minor nobles from Belgium and had migrated to England in the nineteenth century. Their children’s links to the royal family are legion: the second son Geoffrey was related to Lady Diana Spencer through marriage (via her sister Sarah McCorquodale); while the first son Hugh became great pals of the then Prince of Wales in the 1960s, so the two families continued to be linked through wedding and godparentage for the next two generations. Hugh’s son Edward is King Charles’ godson and was a page at the wedding in 1981 (and is now married to a Grosvenor, daughter of the Duke of Westminster). Second son Hugh married an Astor—their daughter Grace (Prince William’s goddaughter) captured the world’s attention as the angry three-year-old on the balcony of Buckingham Palace during William and Catherine’s wedding kiss in 2011. Third son Nicholas’s daughter is in turn Prince Harry’s goddaughter, and was also a bridesmaid in his wedding in 2018. Nicholas and the fourth brother, William, are godfathers to Princes George and Louis. Most recently, Grace’s little brother, Charles van Cutsem, was appointed a page of honour to the King in November 2023. Not bad for a family that remain faithfully Catholic.

Grace van Cutsem

Royal favour can thus help to solidify a family’s status within elite society in Britain, just as it did for the Comptons of Warwickshire in the Tudor era. Perhaps the Comptons of Berkeley Springs in Morgan County, West Virginia, enjoyed their own degree of notoriety in their corner of the world.