Il Gattopardo: The Real Leopard, Prince of Lampedusa

The new Netflix series Il Gattopardo (‘The Leopard’) is the third adaptation of the celebrated novel by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa. Published in 1958, it was first a hugely successful film by Visconti in 1963, then a BBC radio drama in 2008. Telling the story of a powerful landowner from the old aristocracy of Sicily dealing with the changes brought about by the Risorgimento of the 1860s—the unification of Italy—the historical novel is considered one of the very best of its genre. What makes it particularly interesting for a historian or a sociologist (or a historical sociologist) is that the author was himself a prince, and modelled the main character (the ‘Prince of Salina’) after one of his own ancestors, either his maternal great-grandfather, Alessandro Filangieri, Prince of Cutò, or his paternal grandfather, Giulio Tomasi, Prince of Lampedusa. It is therefore potentially full of real insights (or potentially full of falsehoods or ‘desired truths’ … one can never be certain) from a person who grew up within the social caste under examination—in a similar way that Julian Fellowes is able to write about his own class in Gosford Park or Downton Abbey.

Giulio Tomasi, Prince of Lampedusa, author of ‘Il Gattopardo’

There are several characteristics that are striking about the Sicilian high aristocracy and make them different to other dukes and princes in this blogsite. For starters, most of them do not have a particle (a ‘de’ or a ‘von’) to show they are nobly born—their surname is sufficient; in the case of Lampedusa, it is Tomasi. Secondly, their numbers are inflated, with over one hundred princely titles, meaning that the power of that title is somewhat diluted. Yet thirdly, they were actually incredibly powerful as landowners and political players well into the modern era for the simple fact that for much of its history, Sicily was governed from afar and its magnates were left to mostly manage their own affairs. This is in fact the major crisis facing the Prince of Salina in the novel. From the early fifteenth century, Sicily was ruled from afar, either from the Kingdom of Aragon, then after 1734 by a new regime based in Naples, the Bourbons. When, in the Netflix series, the Prince of Salina is described as a ‘Bourbon prince’ it is a bit misleading, since the Sicilian aristocracy only tolerated their Bourbon kings as long as they stayed far away on the mainland and left their local autonomy untouched. This ‘understanding’ was tested by events during the revolutionary era at the very end of the eighteenth century when the royal family had to flee Naples and took refuge in their second capital in Sicily, and tested again when Sicily erupted in revolution again in 1848 and briefly deposed the Bourbons. Still, the princes saw it in their best interests to maintain the status quo, and to not join in the nationalist movement sweeping the Italian peninsula at the end of the 1850s, which planned to join together the multiple duchies and principalities into one unified—and politically liberal—Kingdom of Italy.

The Kingdom of the Two Sicilies in 1850

By this point, most of the oldest Sicilian noble families knew they could weather the storm—though they didn’t have a ‘de’ or a ‘von’ like other princely families, a name like Lanza or a Filangieri drew power from their ancientness, going all the back to the Norman conquest of this island in the eleventh century. The Tomasi were different: their position as magnates only dated back to the late sixteenth century (though see below for grander claims). But they cleverly hitched their star to the heritage of one of these oldest families, the Chiaromonte—a literal translation from the French ‘Clermont’—who arrived with other Normans and held the highest offices in the Kingdom for centuries. Eufemia Chiaromonte inherited the lordship of Montechiaro (a reversal of her surname), and in about 1408 took it in marriage to the Caro family. The Castle of Montechiaro is perched on a cliff high above the sea on the south coast of Sicily, southeast of the provincial capital of Agrigento. Built in the 1350s, it was an important defensive structure against raids by pirates from the North African coast, also known as the ‘Barbary Pirates’, who frequently raided this coast to capture slaves.

Montechiaro Castle

At some point, the Caro family were also created barons of Lampedusa, an island about 200 km off the southern coast of Sicily—in fact closer to the coast of Tunisia (about 100 km). It was considered to be a sovereign lordship, sort of like the island of Malta, 175 km to the east, which probably was the reason it was chosen later for the Tomasi family’s princely title. The lordship included the nearby smaller island of Linosa, with its distinctive volcanic peaks. Both islands are part of the Pelagian Islands, settled and fought over since antiquity by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Saracens, Knights Hospitaler and so on. The kings of Sicily entrusted the lordship to local baronial families to try to ensure their overlordship over these strategic stopping points in Mediterranean traffic. But they had little other value—there was little water and were mostly rocky and infertile. Sometimes the island had residents, and sometimes not. In 1553, for example, pirates under the command of the Ottoman Empire carried off 1,000 people into slavery. Just over a decade later, Lampedusa was a useful stopping off point for the Spanish navy on its way to relieve Malta from a besieging Ottoman fleet.

the rocky cliffs of Lampedusa (photo Jeffrey Sciberras)

In 1583, the heiress of both Lampedusa and Montechiaro lordships, Francesca Caro, married Mario Tomasi, a captain in the Sicilian army based in the nearby town of Licata. His father, Giovanni, was said to be from Campania on the mainland, while his mother was from the Roman nobility. Much grander claims have been put forward by various genealogists, starting in the seventeenth century (and continuing in the present), to connect this family to the other branches called Tomasi or Tommasi all over Italy, and also to a family called the Leopardi—which makes a nice connection to the title of the novel and its fictional prince, ‘the Leopard’. There are stories about a certain Thomas Leopardi, a Byzantine soldier in the sixth century who descended from Licinius ‘the Leopard’, a grandson of Emperor Constantine. His sons moved to Ancona in central Italy and took the name Tomasi. From here various branches spread all over the peninsula, from Verona to Siena to Capua. One family who stayed in the area of Ancona (the Marche), seem to have assumed the title ‘Prince Tomassini’, or Tomassini-Leopardi, and put forward claims in the later twentieth century to be the ‘true heirs’ to the Byzantine Empire. Let’s take that with a grain of salt. But the Tomasi di Lampedusa family of Sicily did use a leopard on their coat of arms—some sources say it is a serval, a smaller cat from North Africa, but this is probably a reference to the fact that a gattopardo is a serval, and literary critics have suggested that Tomasi chose this name to represent a more local cat, one that was being hunted to extinction in the nineteenth century, like the protagonist of his novel.

Coat of arms of the Tomasi di Lampedusa family–though it is described as a gold leopard or lion on blue, both examples I’ve seen online show it this way.

The family rapidly expanded their power in southern Sicily in the seventeenth century, and if they didn’t take on a mantle of ‘Byzantinism’, they certainly became known for their extreme piety and devotion to the Catholic Church, producing a ‘Holy Duke’, a ‘Holy Prince’, a venerable nun and a canonised cardinal. The piety of the book Il Gattopardo and the film and television series clearly reflects this same strong piety in the family two centuries later.

a 18th-century painting of all the saints, priests and nuns of the Tomasi family

This started with Mario and Francesca’s twin grandsons, Carlo and Giulio, born in 1614, the year their father, Ferdinando Tomasi, was formally invested with the lordships of Montechiaro and Lampedusa. The elder twin founded a new town, Palma, slightly inland from the old fortress, on the site of an ancient Greek settlement. In 1637, he obtained full governing powers over the town from the King of Spain (Philip IV, who was also King of Sicily), and a year later was created Duke of Palma. The new town, laid out on an orthogonal plan, was situated in a green valley watered by a river that emptied out into the sea at a newly built marina. It was constructed by the twins and their uncle Mario, an officer of the Catholic Church in Sicily and governor of the nearby town of Licata. Its main focus point was a new church, Santa Rosario, and a new Benedictine abbey, which incorporated the ducal palace in Palma. This was replaced with another palace in the 1660s—after centuries of neglect, it was recently restored, and though quite plain on the outside, has preserved wonderful wooden ceilings with dynastic symbols and heraldry.

The Benedictine Monastery in Palma (photo Archenzo)
the illuminated Ducal Palace, Palma
the restored ceiling in the Palazzo Ducale

But just two years later, Duke Carlo retreated from the world and became a Theatine monk, ceding his new title to his twin brother Giulio. That same year, the latter married Rosalia Traina, heiress of the barony of la Torretta, a small village on a mountain built around a ‘little tower’ overlooking Palermo. Its castle had been recently rebuilt in the 1590s and was later expanded into a baroque palazzo. This was ‘lost’ in 1954—I can’t find anything more about this online. Alongside several other lordships, Donna Rosalia’s inheritance placed the Tomasi family at the top rank of Sicilian landowners. Torretta brought in income from its olive groves, but more importantly, was a base of operations for involvement in national politics in the Sicilian capital, Palermo.

some of the remaining castle at Torretta

Duke Giulio’s civic and political activities had mostly been confined to Palma’s nearest large town, Licata, but it is clear he now moved in higher circles, and in 1667 the King of Spain (now Carlos II) created him a Knight of the Order of Santiago and 1st Prince of Lampedusa. The Tomasi family had now fully arrived.

Both Giulio and Rosalia were known for their piety—he’s nicknamed ‘il Duca Santo’. After they had six children, they agreed to live together chastely. But in about 1660, obtained permission from the Pope to formally separate; he retired to a monastery like his brother, while his wife and four daughters retreated the new cloistered Benedictine monastery of Palma: his wife as ‘Suor Maria Seppellita’, his eldest daughter Francesca as its abbess, and Isabella as ‘Suor Maria Crocifissa’. The latter became known for her extreme devotion to penance and suffering, and for a letter dictated to her in her cell by Satan himself in 1676, written in demonic language and still undeciphered, despite recent attempts using decryption and AI software. Sister Maria of the Crucifixion is known as ‘Blessed Corbera’ in Il Gattopardo (Corbera being the surname of the fictional family of the Prince of Salina). Shortly after her death in 1699, the Bishop of Agrigento ordered a hagiographic biography to be written and requested the opening of a case for her beatification, but she only got as far as being declared ‘venerable’ in 1787.

the mystic Suor Maria Crucifissa

It was her sibling, the eldest son Giuseppe Tomasi, who made it fully to sainthood. He renounced his claims to the succession in 1665 and entered the Theatine Order as his uncle had done. This order, founded as part of the wave of Catholic reforms in the sixteenth century, was devoted to simple living and to clerical reform. Giuseppe moved to Rome where he became an expert at deciphering, editing and publishing ancient liturgical texts, some in Hebrew, some in Aramaic, or other languages (some called him the ‘Prince of Roman Liturgists’). At the start of the eighteenth century, he became particularly close to a new pope, Clement XI, who named him ‘examiner’ of bishops and abbots (to satisfy his zeal for reform), and also member of a number of theological bodies in Rome. The Pope made him a cardinal in May 1712, but Giovanni died at the start of the new year. He was beatified about a century later, and finally was canonised as a saint in 1986.

Cardinal Giuseppe Maria Tomasi

This saint’s secular younger brother, Ferdinando, 2nd Prince of Lampedusa, was no less holy, and, similar to his father, earned the nickname ‘il Principe Santo’. Though it hardly seems he had the time: he married the daughter of another princely family when he was only 18 (and his wife, Melchiorra Naselli, only 15), had a son and died three years later in 1672, as did his young wife.

Young Giulio II, 3rd Prince of Lampedusa, 4th Duke of Palma, Baron of Montechiaro and Torretta, must have been raised by his maternal family, the Nasellis, since all of his paternal family lived cloistered or in Rome. But he too had a very short life. He married another Naselli (Anna Maria), then died age 26 in 1698, leaving a one-year-old child, Francesco II, 4th Prince of Lampedusa. The Naselli family, princes of Aragona (near Agrigento) since 1625, and descended from kings themselves (or so they claimed), undoubtedly helped solidify the young prince’s ties with the distant Spanish monarch in Madrid: in 1724 he was created a Grandee of Spain, and he transferred much of his activities to Palermo, taking his turn, for example, holding the yearlong offices of Captain of Justice and Praetor. He served as president of the confraternity devoted to the rehabilitation of former slaves, re-captured from the Turks, and as royal vicar appointed to deal with the pestilence in Messina in 1743. He twice was selected for the Deputation of the Kingdom of Sicily (a body like the Sicilian Parliament, but meeting more frequently to carry out functions of governing), in 1732 and 1754, and that latter year was appointed to a senior post in the management of the royal patrimony in Sicily. By this point, the royal dynasty had changed, the Bourbons having taken over from the Habsburgs in 1734. But it is interesting to note—though this should be confirmed—that Prince Ferdinando in 1737 was named Gentleman of the Chamber to the Emperor Charles VI, whose Austrian forces had been chased from Sicily a few years earlier. Is this an error in the genealogies, or was the Prince perhaps playing a double game in case the Habsburgs were restored (Sicily having changed hands three times in the previous three decades)?

The 4th Prince also connected himself more closely with the aristocracy of Palermo though successive marriages to two princesses of the House of Valguarnera (remember that name for later). A palace was built, fairly modest and on a narrow street in the inner city close to the port, so there’s no grand vista images to look at. It housed the family during the winter months for the next two centuries, until it was largely destroyed by Allied bombs in 1943. In 2011 the ruined Palazzo Lampedusa was bought by developers and restored for use as Air B&B apartments—which looks spectacular.

the ruins of the old Palazzo Lampedusa in Palermo, before restoration (photo Jeff Kerwin)
the new Palazzo Lampedusa, ready for Air B&B

Unlike his father and grandfather, the 4th Prince of Lampedusa lived to the ripe old age of 78. When he died in 1775, his estates and titles passed to his son Giuseppe Maria. Like his father, he served in a number of administrative and charitable capacities in Palermo. He also was appointed at one point as ‘ambassador’ from the city of Palermo to the royal court in Naples—which underlines how very isolated Sicily was from its royal family, who maintained a completely separate life in Naples (the King even had two regnal numbers: he was Ferdinand IV in Naples, but only Ferdinand III in Sicily). The 5th Prince of Lampedusa was also Intendant General of the Army of Sicily, 1762, a prominent position, but also lucrative as it would have been accompanied by numerous kickbacks for arranging contracts with suppliers of uniforms, food, gunpowder and so on. The ‘Leopard’ may have protested about the corruption of non-noble administrators like the Mayor of Donnafugata, but in this era, the aristocracy was very much involved as well.

The 5th Prince died in 1792, just before the outbreak of revolution rocked the kingdoms of Naples and Sicily. The 6th Prince, Giulio III, had already filled the same positions as his father and grandfather—head of charitable confraternities, member of the city’s senate, and deputy of the Kingdom—but was also given the title Gentleman of the Chamber of the King of Naples & Sicily. In all the courts of Europe, this title was given as an honour to senior noblemen and did not necessarily mean he attended court personally in far-off Naples. Then in December 1798, the royal family came to him, driven out of Naples by an invading French army (which set up a republic); they fled to Palermo where they resided for a few months, returned to the mainland, then were forced back to Sicily once more in 1806, this time by a more permanent French occupation. During this time, the Prince of Lampedusa was Praetor of the city of Palermo, so would have had certain hosting duties, and he was rewarded with a knighthood in the Order of San Gennaro (the senior chivalric order for the Kingdom of Naples). He died in 1812 before the Bourbons left Palermo, so it was his son who took part in the brief revolution of Sicily itself, that same year, when the King was forced to grant a constitution; Giuseppe, 7th Prince of Lampedusa, was named a peer in Parliament’s new upper house (for his duchy of Palma). But this was short-lived, and after Ferdinand was restored to his throne in Naples, he created a new unified Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, nullifying any political concessions he’d given the Sicilians. A bit of a kick in the teeth to people who had saved his skin twice in the previous fifteen years.

Prince Giuseppe made another good marriage for the family, to Princess Angela Filangieri, daughter of the 6th Prince of Cutò. Her family was much grander, with generals and governors across the centuries; her father was a prominent commander in the Neapolitan army and Royal Lieutenant-General (aka viceroy) of Sicily, 1803-06, a position held later by her brother Niccolo, 1816-17 and 1821-22. Here enters another major setting for Il Gattopardo, in Angela’s family’s country estate: the Palazzo Filangieri-Cutò, in the village of Santa Margherita di Belice, about 60 km southwest of Palermo in the interior of the western corner of the island of Sicily. Originally built by the (actual) Corbera family in the late seventeenth century, it passed to the Filangieri family in the eighteenth century. It was a vast palace, large enough to host Queen Carolina for several months of her exile (1812-13), and was a place the author of Il Gattopardo spent much of his youth, so is the inspiration for the fictional Donnafugata. It was in fact used as such for the Visconti film of 1963, but was almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake in 1968. Only a shell remains. In the new television series, the family’s country seat (the town of Palma) is set in Ortigia, the most ancient part of the city of Siracusa on Sicily’s eastern coast, with the ducal palace as the Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco.

Palazzo Filangieri-Cutò as it appears today (photo HaguardDuNord)

When this branch of the Filangieri family became extinct in the early twentieth century, this palazzo passed to one heir, while the Tomasi di Lampedusa family inherited the Palazzo Cutò in Bagheria, which they soon sold in 1923. Bagheria was a fashionable suburb of Palermo, to the east where the hills meet the sea. Several aristocratic villas were built here in the early eighteenth century, including this one by the Naselli family (whom we’ve encountered above), and by the Valguarnera family (also noted above), whose villa was used for the Salina Palace in the new Netflix series (and some of the gardens of the Villa Tasca, closer in to the city). The Palazzo Cutò still exists, but is not quite as glamourous to look at as the Villa Valguarnera—it was purchased by the municipality in 1987 and today houses a museum and library.

Palazzo Cutò in Bagheria

The 7th Prince died in 1831 and was succeeded by his son Giulio Fabrizio, who is the main model for ‘the Leopard’. His wife was indeed named Stella, and he did have numerous daughters, whose names mirror those in the book/films: Concetta, Carolina, Antonia, Chiara, Caterina and Maria Rosa. And although there was no handsome first cousin for one of these princesses to marry, two of his four sons did marry first cousins (one maternal and one paternal). The 8th Prince of Lampedusa was the last to actually own the island of Lampedusa, as it was forcibly sold to the King of Two Sicilies in 1843—the family had tried to re-populate the island in the 1760s, then during the Napoleonic Wars leased it out to the Order of Malta and to the British Navy, though neither of these really developed it either. After Sicily became part of Italy, Lampedusa was used as a penal colony; and in modern times the island has been in the news a lot due to it being so close to Africa and thus the first stop-off point for refugee boats heading towards Europe.

Giulio Fabrizio Tomasi, 8th Prince of Lampedusa, ‘il Gattopardo’

With the money he was given by the King in exchange for the island, Prince Giulio Fabrizio purchased a grander residence in Palermo, the former Palazzo Branciforte, built along the seafront on the old Spanish bastions (which were dismantled in the eighteenth century). Renamed the Palazzo Lampedusa alla Marina, half of this extensive palace complex was sold in 1862, but it was bought back in 1948 by the author of Il Gattopardo after the main Tomasi residence had been destroyed—he brought the family’s art collections and furnishings here, where they remain. Today it is known as the Palazzo Lanza-Tomasi, restored and revived in the later twentieth century by Gioacchino Lanza (see below), and forms part of the elegant waterfront of the city. For the new series, the Palazzo Comitini in Palermo stands in for this palace’s interiors, while the famous ballroom scene was shot in the Grand Plaza Hotel in Rome (whereas the 1960s Visconti movie used the Palazzo Valguarnera Gangi in Palermo, close to the main street of the city, Via Roma, and the famous square ‘Quattro Canti’, where several exterior scenes were filmed).

The Palermo seafront: Palazzo Lampedusa alla Marina (Palazzo Lanza-Tomasi), at far left. I sat in a cafe in front of this building a few years ago eating ice cream, quite unaware I would be writing about it later (photo Dedda71)

In January 1848, Sicily revolted once more against the Bourbons, and an autonomous parliament was again briefly created, with the 8th Prince again getting a peerage in its upper house, until this was brutally supressed in May 1849 by King Ferdinand II (and his general, notably a Filangieri prince, from the Neapolitan branch of the family), who earned his name ‘re bomba’ by ordering bombardment of the Sicilian city of Messina. This is the background for the events of the novel, when, just over a decade later, the liberals of Sicily rose up once more against the Bourbons and in support of an invasion in May 1860 of Giuseppe Garibaldi’s ‘Army of a Thousand’—the Redshirts. By the end of the year, Sicilians had voted to join the Kingdom of Sardinia, which, in the Spring was re-branded the Kingdom of Italy.

Garibaldi and his Redshirts landing at Marsala, Sicily, in May 1860

The ‘Leopard’ of Lampedusa lived another thirty-five years. Not much is known about his actual life, aside from his genuine passion for science, attested by numerous books on physics and astronomy in his library, and the observatory he built at the Villa Lampedusa in the hills north of Palermo (an area fashionable for aristocratic hunting lodges since the eighteenth century). He is portrayed as such in the novel and both adaptations (by the way, Don Fabrizio’s full titles in the book are Prince of Salina, Duke of Querceta, and Marquis of Donnafugata). The observatory is gone, but the villa has been beautifully restored recently as a luxury hotel.

Burt Lancaster as the Prince of Salina in the 1963 Visconti film
Villa Lampedusa, outside Palermo

His eldest son, Giuseppe, was 9th Prince of Lampedusa until 1908, and left several sons, the eldest of whom, another Giulio, was head of the family as the 10th Prince. His wife, Beatrice Mastrogiovanni-Tasca, was one of the co-heiresses of the Filangieri-Cutò estates as noted above. Her sister, Giulia, Countess Trigona, married to the Mayor of Palermo, and occupying the high-profile position in Italy as lady-in-waiting to the Queen, was brutally murdered by a scorned lover in a hotel in Rome in 1911, scandalising high society.

The 10th Prince of Lampedusa stayed out of the spotlight and tended to his agricultural affairs, still quite vast, in the south of Sicily. Though feudalism had ended in the 1840s, he still considered his primary duties to be the welfare of ‘his’ town of Palma di Montechiaro (its name formally changed in the 1860s) and its now ancient convent. It was his brother Pietro who made his name on the world stage. Don Pietro took the title Marchese della Torretta, from the family’s barony in the hills above Palermo. He trained as a diplomat and acted as Head of the Cabinet of the Minister of Foreign Affairs, 1910-14, then was sent as an envoy to Munich in 1915, then to Saint Petersburg in 1917 where he was promoted to full ambassador, a crucial position at such a pivotal time for Russia. In January 1919, Torretta was a member of the Italian delegation sent to the peace talks in Paris, then by the end of the year was appointed ambassador to the newly constituted Austrian Republic. He returned to Italy and was himself for a short time Minister of Foreign Affairs (1921-22). In 1921 he was named a Senator of the Kingdom of Italy, then sent abroad again, as Ambassador to Great Britain, 1922-27. He was pushed out of public affairs, however, by Mussolini at the end of the 1920s, for his liberal views, and only returned to politics after the war, when he acted as President of the Senate, 1945-46. As an old man, he briefly succeeded his nephew as the 12th Prince of Lampedusa, and died in 1962, the last of his family.

Pietro Tomasi, Marchese della Torretta, 4th from the right, with other world leaders at the Paris peace talks, 1919

Back in 1920, Pietro Tomasi had married a retired soprano, Alice Barbi, who in her day had charmed the concert halls of Europe and built up a particular friendship with Brahms. From her first marriage to Baron Boris von Wolff-Stomersee, a Baltic German and official at the Russian court, she had a daughter, Alexandra (known as ‘Licy’). Born in Nice, but raised in St Petersburg, Licy inherited her father’s residence in rural Latvia, Schloss Stomersee: built in the 1830s, and rebuilt in French renaissance style in 1908; today known as Stāmeriena Palace. After a divorcing her first husband, she met and married in 1932 her step-father’s nephew, Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa. They lived together at Stomersee—one of the few Latvian aristocratic estates not nationalised in the 1920s—for a few years in the 1930s when Tomasi was eager to distance himself from Fascists in Italy. The palace later became a state-run agricultural college, abandoned after the fall of communism in the early 1990s, but recently bought, restored, and opened for tourism.

Stāmeriena Palace, Latvia (Schloss Stomersee), prior to restoration (photo Vaido Otsar)

Giuseppe Tomasi, born in 1896, became 11th Prince of Lampedusa, 12th Duke of Palma, and Baron of Montechiaro and Torretta, Grandee of Spain, in 1934. He was a sort of ‘professional intellectual’, publishing a few short stories and pieces of literary criticism. He only wrote one novel, Il Gattopardo, which was rejected several times before it was published shortly after his death in 1957. Politically, he was a monarchist but with liberal leanings; critical of the Italian monarchy and the National Monarchist Party that attempted to restore it after the plebiscite of 1946, and interested in British liberals—whom he saw as less corrupt than his Sicilian countrymen. His wife lived mostly independently, pursuing a career as a psychoanalyst, and they had no children. In 1956, he adopted a member of his literary circle (and a distant cousin), Gioacchino Lanza Branciforte (from the noble house of Lanza encountered above, a son of the Count of Mazzarino), who had his own illustrious career as director of some of Italy’s leading musical establishments, including the opera house of San Carlo in Naples, and as a university professor in Palermo. He inherited the Palazzo Lampedusa alla Marina in 1957 and its collections, and alongside his wife, renovated it and turned it into a museum for the novelist and the Lampedusa family. By some accounts he is reckoned the 14th Duke of Palma (though titles were legally abolished alongside the Italian monarchy in 1946). He died in 2023, and was succeeded by his son Fabrizio Lanza Tomasi (b. 1961) as curator of the legacy of Il Gattopardo.

Giuseppe and Licy at Schloss Stomersee in 1931

The Hills are Alive! Auersperg princes: Lords of Slovenia and Relatives of the Von Trapp Singers

I was recently talking to some students about the character Captain von Trapp in the film ‘The Sound of Music’. Students are always curious how someone from a landlocked country like Austria could be a retired naval commander. We also got to talking about his rank, since he is called a baron in the film (and he is initially planning to marry a baroness). It led to an investigation of the term ‘ritter’, which was actually the real Georg von Trapp’s rank in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, akin to ‘baronet’ in the UK system, that is, a knighthood that is hereditary. So we chatted about rank and its place in aristocratic society and looked into his familial relations to see if he was connected to people of much higher rank at the Viennese court—and indeed, it turns out that he was, though almost entirely through the family of his first wife (the mother of all those singing children), Agathe Whitehead. Further research reveals that this Anglo-Austrian aristocrat was related to several families of princely rank, so is worth a look-in on this blogsite: a first cousin was married to a Prince Bismarck (son of the Iron Chancellor), while one of her aunts was married to the Duke of Ratibor and Prince of Corvey (from the hugely sprawling family of the princes of Hohenlohe), and another aunt was married to the Prince of Auersperg.

Georg and Agathe von Trapp, 1910

It is this last connection, Auersperg, that also allows us to look more closely at the area that was once the Von Trapp stomping grounds: Austria’s seacoast, known as the ‘Austrian Littoral’. Formed in 1849 from the old provinces of Istria, Görz/Gorizia and the city of Trieste, the Littoral is divided today between Italy, Croatia and Slovenia. It was a multi-ethnic area, called the Küstenland in German and Primorska by the Croats and Slovenes (just meaning ‘coastland’ in either language). This is where the Austro-Hungarian Navy was based, with its chief port in Pola (now Pula, Croatia), a naval academy in Fiume (now Rijeka) and shipbuilding facilities in Trieste. This is where most of Captain von Trapp’s wife’s money came from. Further inland was the province of Carniola, now (mostly) the Republic of Slovenia, where the Auersperg family ruled large estates for centuries, fairly independently of imperial rule in far-off Vienna. Their formal title here was Duke of Gottschee, which was the historic name for a small German-speaking enclave in what is now southeastern Slovenia. Since the Second World War, the area has been ‘ethnically cleansed’ and the area re-named Kočevsko (and its main town, Kočevje). The name initially referred to the local fir spruce or hvoja in Slovene.

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So although the Von Trapps were not dukes or princes, this blog will look at their close cousins, the princes of Auersperg, dukes of Gottschee.

Let’s start though with Agathe Whitehead, the woman who does not appear in ‘The Sound of Music’. Her grandfather, Robert Whitehead, was an English engineer from Bolton who settled in Fiume in the 1850s and developed the first self-propelled torpedo. He soon constructed a large factory building torpedoes and ships for the Austro-Hungarian Navy, a business enterprise continued under his son John. When John died in 1902, most of this fortune passed to Agathe. Robert’s second son, Sir James Whitehead, was a diplomat, who eventually rose to the post of British envoy to the Kingdom of Serbia, 1906-10 (a pretty sensitive time to be in Belgrade); his son Edgar was also famous, a generation later, as Prime Minister of the British colony of Southern Rhodesia, 1958-62 (a pretty sensitive time to be in southern Africa!).

Whitehead torpedo and ship factory Fiume, 1910

In 1911, Agathe married Georg Ritter von Trapp. Though his family originated in Hesse, in central Germany, he had been born in Zara, further down the Adriatic coast, which was briefly part of Italy after World War I so, oddly (considering the plot of ‘The Sound of Music’), he and his family were given Italian citizenship, but in 1947 it became part of Yugoslavia, and is now Zadar in Croatia. His father was also a naval captain, and had been elevated to the lowest rank of the Austrian nobility, ritter. They had a villa in Pola—in the centre of town, today divided into flats. With his marriage, Georg acquired the Whitehead villa in Fiume, built by Agathe’s grandfather on the Adriatic seafront in 1878, across the road from his factory, and a summer residence, Erlhof on Lake Zell in the Alps, south of Salzburg. Erlhof was a very old country house bought by Agathe’s grandmother in 1900—it has been run as a restaurant and hotel since the 1970s.

the Von Trapp Villa in Pola
Villa Whitehead in Fiume
Erlhof

Agathe and the children spend World War I at Erlhof, while Georg became the most successful submarine commander. After 1918, Fiume and Pola became parts of the new Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (after 1929 changed to Yugoslavia), so the von Trapps settled in Klosterneuburg, a suburb of Vienna, where their last child (of seven) was born. That year, five of these children caught scarlet fever, and, in nursing them, so did their mother, and she died of it in September 1922. Georg moved the family in 1924 to a new villa in Aigen, a posh suburb of Salzburg, across the river from the old town, where, in 1926, he hired a young nun as nanny, Maria Agatha Kutschera (whose family was, interestingly in the context of this blog about ethnically blended Austrians, actually Kučera, from Moravia). They married in 1927 and had three more children. In 1935, Georg invested much of his late wife’s fortune in an Austrian bank—it failed and he lost most of his income. This explains in part why the family turned to professional singing. As the political climate in Austria heated up in 1938, the Captain and Maria took their large family on a concert tour to the United States and did not return.

Trapp Villa in Aigen, Salzburg
the Von Trapp Family Singers in 1946 (with Maria, but not Georg)

So let’s return to Agathe Whitehead’s other, non-English, family—and it makes you realise that those children dancing around in drapery in Salzburg were actually very well connected to very aristocratic cousins in Vienna (and does also invite the question of who was the character of Baroness Schraeder modelled on…a mysterious ‘Princess Yvonne’?). Agathe’s mother, married to an Englishman born in Austria, was herself a blend of Austrian and Hungarian nobility. Agathe von Breuner’s father was Count August Johann von Breuner-Enckevoirt, and her mother was Countess Agota Széchenyi de Sárvár-Felsővidék, one of the leading Hungarian magnate families. Both the Breuner and Széchenyi families produced powerful statesmen in the nineteenth century: István Széchenyi was one of the greatest champions of progress in Budapest, as in fact was Agathe’s great-grandfather, Count August von Breuner in Vienna, as a leader of the liberal opposition to the ultra-conservative regime of Prince Metternich in the 1840s. One of the Auersperg princes we will encounter below was a key ally (and in fact his son-in-law). Later in the century, the Breuners became extinct, and their lands and their name passed to a cadet branch of the House of Auersperg.

The family of Count August von Breuner (1834 by Friedrich von Amerling). This portrait is nicely typical of the liberal aristocrat of mid-19th-century Austria, attentive to his children and their education

The Breuner family were minor nobles from Styria (the Austrian province south of Vienna, in the Alps). Different origin stories say they originated here or they migrated here from the Rhineland in the Middle Ages. But they were securely situated in Styria by the 1450s, with the lordships and castles of Stübing and Fladnitz. They split into two branches in the sixteenth century. The senior Styrian branch became counts in 1666 and went extinct in 1827. The junior branch moved to Lower Austria and were given the lordship of Staatz in the region north of Vienna, with a prominent castle on a round hilltop overlooking the plain that leads from Austria into Bohemia; this castle was destroyed in the Thirty Years War—and it remains a ruin today—but by then they had acquired the castle of Asparn, a few miles into the hills to the south, and made it their chief residence. Asparn was a much grander residence, owned for a while by the Habsburgs themselves—today it houses a museum of pre-history and medieval archaeology.

Staatz, Lower Austria
Schloss Asparn

The Breuners were elevated to the rank of baron in 1550, then count in the 1620s. They were prominent in Austrian imperial and provincial government in this century, until the senior line (at Asparn) died out in 1716, and the junior line inherited the properties of the Enckevoirt family and added that name to their own. The most prominent member of the family in this period was Philipp Friedrich, Bishop of Vienna, 1639 to 1669, during which time he rebuilt much of the diocese following the Thirty Years War and in particular re-constructed the grand high altar in St. Stephen’s Church in Vienna.

Philip Friedrich von Breuner, Bishop of Vienna

Other built memorials of the Breuner family included a Palais Breuner in Graz for the senior branch, and a Palais Breuner in Vienna for the junior branch—acquired by Count August in 1853 (formerly the Neupauer Palais, built 1715 for Austria’s Lord High Chamberlain), on Singerstrasse, in the neighbourhood behind the Dom. Their country seat was Schloss Grafenegg in Lower Austria (inherited in 1813), originally built in the fifteenth century, which they rebuilt in the 1840s-50s as one of the best examples of romantic historicism in architecture. The castle, near the city of Krems on the Danube, remains a major tourist attraction and concert venue today. This branch of the family died out in 1894, and the Viennese palace and Grafenegg Castle passed to the co-heiress who had married the Duke of Ratibor-Corvey—they still own both today. The rest of the properties (and the name Breuner, though now with two n’s for some reason) passed to the Auerspergs.

Palais Breuner in Vienna
Schloss Grafenegg

The Auersperg family took their name from a castle with an earlier form Ursperg, which may suggest it was named for the ancient mighty wild oxen, the aurochs, which survived in the wilds of eastern Europe until the end of the Middle Ages. The family coat of arms sports an ox’s head, as do the arms of several other Balkan families or states (like Moldavia).

the early coat of arms of the Auerspergs with its aurochs

The ancient triangular castle on a hilltop (the ‘berg’ or ‘perg’) has three towers, one of which is named the ‘Ox Tower’. The Slovene word for aurochs (or simply ‘aur’ in German) is ‘tur’, and the Slovene name for the castle is Grad Turjak (and the Auersperg family themselves are referred to locally as the Turjaški). The castle was built and rebuilt several times in the Middle Ages before the current mighty structure, from about 1220. Badly damaged in an earthquake of 1511, it was swiftly rebuilt and withstood and assault by Ottoman Turks in 1528.

Auersperg Castle in 1689
Auersperg Castle (Grad Turjak) today

Auersperg Castle dominates the valley of a river that flows north into the provincial capital of Ljubljana, today’s capital of Slovenia, but long known in German as Laibach, in the Austrian duchy of Carniola. This province takes its name from the indigenous ancient people here, the Carni, from which its German name, Krain, derives, though this sounds confusingly like the Slavic word for ‘border’, ‘krajina’, and a borderland indeed it was, between Slavs and later Germanic settlers, and between the Austrian realms and the ever-expanding Ottoman Empire to the southeast. The neighbouring province (and they are usually grouped together) is called the Windisch March, or ‘Slavic Border’ (Germans called Slavs Winds or Wends), which incidentally gave its name to another Austro-Slovene princely family, Windischgraetz, who will have their own blog post.

The Ursperg and later Auersperg family of knights defended this frontier for centuries. In the early Middle Ages they served the dukes of Carinthia (the duchy to the north) as chamberlains and marshals, then the Habsburgs in this same capacity once they took over Carinthia and Carniola in the 1330s. They divided into two main branches in the fifteenth century, with the senior line based in their castles of Schönberg and Seisenberg (today called Šumberk and Žužemberk in Slovene) and raised in rank to imperial baron (freiherr) in 1550. The lovely medieval castle of Seisenberg, on the Krka river southeast of Ljubljana, was rebuilt by the local bishop with seven great towers in the 1520s, then purchased by the Auerspergs in 1538. It became the family’s main residence in this region, and over the centuries they developed a significant ironworks industry here. All the family’s lands in Carniola were seized by the Yugoslav government in 1946, and have not been returned.

Seisenberg in Carniola / Žužemberk in Slovenia

In the sixteenth century the House of Auersperg provided their Habsburg overlords with several able commanders, most famously Herbard VIII and Andreas, the ‘Carniolan Achilles’. Herbard (or Herward) was Military Governor of Carniola and Captain of the Croatian Frontier. He was also a Protestant and one of the leaders in implanting the reformed faith in this corner of the world; still today considered one of the heroes of Croatia and Slovenia. But in 1575 he took on the might of the Ottoman Empire at a battle in Croatia near Bihać (today’s border between Croatia and Bosnia) and was badly defeated—his head was severed and paraded in triumph back in Constantinople. Nearly two decades later, his cousin Andreas returned to this frontier as Commander-in-Chief of the Croatian Frontier and contributed to a significant defeat of the Turks at Sisak (1593), which effectively put a stop to Ottoman expansion over the River Sava—it was a dramatic victory, with the retreating Turks being forced to swim back across the river and many hundreds drowning.

Herward VIII von Auersperg
Andreas, the ‘Achilles’ of Carniola

It is worth noting again that these Auerspergs, like many members of the Austrian nobility, had joined the Protestant faith. Herbard’s father, Trajan, was an early supporter and protected a prominent Lutheran theologian in this region and supported his efforts to create the first translation of the Bible into Slovenian. Other Slovene books were printed here, one of the earliest efforts to bring a Slavic language to an equal footing with German.

The Slovene Bible

In the seventeenth century, most of the Austrian high nobility converted back to Catholicism, and were rewarded by their Habsburg overlords. Two branches were established and raised to the rank of imperial count in 1630. The senior line retained the castle of Auersperg (until 1945) and continue to exist (the ‘comital branch’) today. Auersperg Castle was taken by Yugoslav Partisans in 1943 and badly damaged. Nationalised by the Communist regime that followed, it has only slowly been restored starting in the 1990s.

The junior line consisted of three brothers. The eldest, Wolfgang Engelbert, was a great collector of art and objects in his new grand residence in Ljubljana; he also acquired the County of Gottschee in 1641, the German speaking enclave in the hills of southern Carniola (as noted above) that would become a much more important part of the family’s story later on; its castle was rebuilt in the 1680s, and completely destroyed in World War II. The second brother Herward founded another line of counts (who died out in the early twentieth century); while the youngest brother, Johann Weikhard, founded the princely line that still exists today.

Gottschee Castle in the 1670s (Kočevje, Slovenia)

Johann Weikhard von Auersperg was born in Seisenberg Castle in 1615. He became a personal favourite of Emperor Ferdinand III (only a few years older), and in 1640 was appointed chamberlain and tutor to the Emperor’s son, Ferdinand IV, King of the Romans (the title held by the son and assumed successor of the Holy Roman Emperor). Auersperg was then sent to Westphalia to negotiate the settlement of peace for the Thirty Years War. He was rewarded with lands and elevation to the rank of Prince of the Empire in 1653.

Johann Weikhard 1st Prince of Auersperg

But in order to secure this rank, Johann Weikhard needed to acquire an ‘immediate fief’, a territory subject to no other prince than the emperor, and conveniently there was one available: Tengen (or Thengen) near the western shores of Lake Constance in southern Swabia. It was a very small lordship (about 70 m2), but, recognised by the Emperor as a ‘princely county’ in 1654, it was enough to secure the Auerspergs a seat in the Chamber of Princes in the Imperial Diet. Tengen Castle is on a rocky spur above the town, and was already a ruin—the Auerspergs weren’t planning on moving there anyway, so very far from their centre of operations—and it remains a ruin today.

Tengen Castle in Swabia

But Ferdinand III also rewarded his friend with another extraordinary gift, the Duchy of Münsterberg, in 1654. Münsterberg, even more than Tengen, was a semi-sovereign duchy, one of the many that made up the Duchy of Silesia, part of the Crown of Bohemia (which was by this point also held by the Habsburg emperor). When Silesia was cut off from the Kingdom of Poland in the early fourteenth century, this was one of the many smaller duchies into which it fragmented. Its castle, known today as Ziębica in Polish, was built around this time. The duchy also included the semi-autonomous city of Frankenstein (Ząbkowice). When the last of the original Polish (Piast) royal dukes died out in 1428, the duchy passed through various hands until it was held by the Czech Poděbrady family, 1456-1569. It then was ruled directly by the Habsburgs until it was given to Auersperg. The town of Münsterberg was prosperous and generated healthy revenues for its new dukes, but the ducal seat was at Frankenstein, where the old medieval castle had been given a Renaissance makeover in the 1520s. It was abandoned as a residence in the 1720s, and has been a ruin ever since.

Frankenstein Castle in Silesia (today’s Ząbkowice in Poland)
the new princely arms of the Auerspergs, with the original aurochs quartered with various eagles and lions form Carniola, and in top left the Silesian eagle for the duchy of Münsterberg. The crowned red lion overall is for Gottschee

For a princely residence in Austria itself, the 1st Prince of Auersperg was given the Castle of Wels, in Upper Austria. The castle or burg of the town of Wels, on the river Traun, a tributary of the Danube, was built by the Babenbergs, the first dukes in this region, in the 1220s, then passed with their possessions to the Habsburgs later in that century. Emperor Maximilian I rebuilt it in Gothic style and died here a few years later in 1519. The Auerspergs would hold the castle and lands as a county (referred to as ‘princely county of Wels’ though I’m unsure why since there’s no sovereignty attached to it) until 1865 when they sold it to another family. Since 1937 it has belonged to the city itself and today houses the Wels City Museum.

Burg Wels, Upper Austria

Back home in Ljubljana, to celebrate his dramatic rise to the top of the aristocracy, Prince Johann Weikhard built a huge city palace, next door to one already recently built by his older brother Count Wolfgang Engelbert, in what is now the university district of the old town. The Prince’s Palace (Knežji Dvorec) was badly damaged by an earthquake in 1895 and torn down—in the 1930s, the National Library was built in its place. The Auersperg Palace (aka the Turjaška Palača) still exists, but was sold to the city in 1937 and today houses the City Museum.

The Prince’s Palace, Ljubljana, from an 18th-century map of the city, now demolished
The Auersperg Palace (Turjaška Palača) in Ljubljana today

The 1st Prince of Auersperg continued his rise, and from 1665 to 1669 was the head of the Aulic Council for Emperor Leopold I, essentially ‘prime minister’ of Austria. Once again acting as an international diplomat, he concluded a secret treaty with Louis XIV by which France and Austria would agree to split the Spanish succession once King Carlos II of Spain would die (which was expected to be soon). But enemies back in Vienna accused the Prince of getting too cozy with the Sun King and making secret deals that would benefit himself and his family, so Emperor Leopold sacked him in 1669 and sent him home to his estates in Carniola, where he died nearly a decade later. His older brother died unmarried, so the Prince added the county of Gottschee to his already very large domains in the region.

The descendants of the middle brother, Herward, remained local and retained the hereditary offices of chamberlain and marshal of Carniola. One of these, Count Anton Alexander, became a leader of the liberal nationalist movement of young Austrians in the 1830s-40s, and a supporter of the revival of Slovene identity and folklore. He wrote poetry (in German) of a political and nationalist nature under the pseudonym ‘Anastasius Grün’.

Anastasius Grün (Count Anton Alexander von Auersperg)

The 2nd Prince of Auersperg, Johann Ferdinand, succeeded his father in 1677 and died in 1705, leaving behind only a daughter, so the patrimony passed to his brother, Franz Karl, 3rd Prince, who died less than a decade later. The latter had made more of an impact as a soldier in the last two decades of the seventeenth century, rising to the rank of Artillery General and Governor of Karlstadt (Karlovac) in Croatia. His son, Heinrich Joseph, 4th Prince, returned the family to its favoured position at the Habsburg court that had been lost by his grandfather. He rose to the position of Grand Master of the Court under Emperor Charles VI in the 1730s, then served as Grand Equerry then Grand Chamberlain under Empress Maria Theresa in the 1760s-70s, also acting as governor to the young heir, Archduke Joseph (who became Emperor Joseph II). There were setbacks too: in 1742, Austria lost the province of Silesia to Prussia in the War of Austrian Succession—this meant that the Duchy of Münsterberg was converted from a semi-independent principality into a fief of the Hohenzollerns in Berlin. Eventually, the family sold Münsterberg to the King of Prussia, in 1791, and were compensated by the elevation of the County of Gottschee into a duchy by Emperor Leopold II. This is quite extraordinary—there are no other duchies within the territories of the Austrian Habsburgs (they alone were dukes of Carinthia, Styria, etc), with the exception of those in Silesia, like Münsterberg.

Heinrich Joseph, 4th Prince of Auersperg

Then there were potential gains acquired through matrimony: through his first marriage, in 1719, to a Princess von und zu Liechtenstein, the 4th Prince acquired several properties in Bohemia and Moravia. None of these became central Auersperg residences, and were sold within the next two generations. By his second marriage in 1726, to a Princess von Trautson, he gained a potential great succession in the Tirol, as well as the county of Falkenstein closer to Vienna in Lower Austria. This succession was secured by his son’s marriage to his step-mother’s niece in 1744—resulting in the creation of a junior line, Auersperg-Trautson, to which we’ll return.

The 4th Prince of Auersperg died at the grand old age of 85 in 1783. He left many many children who married into the Austrian and Czech high nobility. Karl Joseph, the 5th Prince, reigned as head of the house until 1800. His younger brother Johann Adam had been raised to the rank of prince on his wedding in 1746 (before this point, only the head of the family was a prince), and acquired a grand palace in Vienna that became the family’s chief residence in the imperial capital. The ‘Rosenkavalier Palace’ or Palais Rofrano had been built in the first decade of the eighteenth century on the western edge of the old city, in a newly developing suburb, Josefstadt (behind what is now the Austrian Parliament building). Johann Adam acquired it in 1777 and it was renamed the Palais Auersperg. Inside, it had a well-known grand hall in which concerts were regularly held: Gluck in the 1760s, and now Mozart and Haydn in the 1770s-80s. The Palace housed the exiled Swedish royal family, 1827-37. During World War II, it was used to hide resistance fighters and today is commemorated as the place where a provisional government committee met to plan the rebirth of postwar Austria. During the war, the Palace had passed to a sister of the Auersperg prince and it is now privately owned, though still used for grand events like balls and concerts.

Palais Auersperg in Vienna

One of the youngest brothers of the 5th Prince, Joseph Franz, entered the church and rose through the ranks to become bishop of Lavant then Gurk (in southern Austria), then Prince-Bishop of Passau in 1783, and finally cardinal, 1789. He was a builder, re-fashioning episcopal residences in all his dioceses, notably the Passau summer residence, Schloss Freudenhain. He was also a passionate follower of Enlightenment reform, and was closely aligned to the movement led by Emperor Joseph II: he supported toleration for Jews, religious reforms against superstition in his diocese, and constructed schools, hospitals and theatres, believing the latter to be morally edifying for his flock.

Joseph Franz, Cardinal-Bishop of Passau
the Auersperg arms on the Cathedral of Passau

The two eldest sons of the 5th Prince of Auersperg divided the succession, with the elder brother, Karl, receiving the princely title and the dukedom of Gottschee, and the younger, Karl, taking on the succession of their mother and step-grandmother and adding their name to his own: Auersperg-Trautson. The Trautson family were an old Austrian noble house who were raised to the rank of Imperial princes in 1711—but there were only two holders of this title and the line became extinct in 1775. Trautson history reaches back to the early Middle Ages when they took possession of important castles that guarded either side of the Brenner Pass, once the dividing point between northern and southern Tirol, but now the frontier between Austria and Italy. For several generations they were hereditary Landmarshalls of the County of Tirol (the presiding officer over the local assembly). Castle Trautson, high above the river Sill, dates back to the 1220s, and was largely destroyed by an air raid in World War II by bombers aiming for the Brenner railway bridge and tunnel that passes directly beneath the castle—but an elegant chapel from the 1680s survived. The ruined castle is still owned by the Auersperg-Trautsons, as is Castle Sprechenstein, on the other side of the pass, now in Italy. It is still private and not open to visitors.

Trautson Castle, in the Brenner Pass, painted in the 19th century
Sprechenstein, South Tirol (now in Italy)

In addition to these Tirolean castles, solitary stone fortresses on rocky outcroppings deep in the Alps, the Trautson inheritance also included a more stylish country house, Schloss Goldegg, west of Vienna in Lower Austria (not far from the famous Melk Monastery). A medieval castle here had been rebuilt and enlarged in the early seventeenth century, then purchased by the Trautsons in 1669, and now passed to the Auerspergs. The senior line of princes retained it as their main country seat in Austria until it was inherited by a daughter in 2015 and passed out of the family.

Schloss Goldegg, Lower Austria

Meanwhile, another house, not far away, has been the seat of the cadet branch of Auersperg-Trautson since they purchased it in 1930: Schloss Wald. It was similarly an old castle expanded in the early modern period, and is still held by the family today. The current head of this branch is Prince Franz Josef (b. 1954) who married Archduchess Maria Constanza in 1994, a granddaughter of Austria’s last emperor.

Schloss Wald

The other main Trautson estate in Lower Austria was the county of Falkenstein and its ruined castle, which was not retained by the Auersperg family since the inheritance was contested by another princely family, the Lambergs (who happened also to be an old Carniola family), so it was sold in 1799. Across the border in Bohemia, the Trautson succession included several properties that were divided between the senior and junior lines. The most esteemed of these, Vlašim (Wlaschim in German), had been favoured by the first Auersperg to acquire it, the 5th Prince, Karl Joseph, and his wife, the heiress Maria Josepha von Trautson. Located in the hills southeast of Prague, the castle dates back to about 1300, but had also been remodelled in about 1600. The Prince and Princess developed its gardens in the style of the fashionable English Garden in the 1770s, and included numerous outbuildings for visitors and guests to enjoy, from stone grottoes and Roman temples to a Chinese pavilion. The castle and its gardens were confiscated by the Czechoslovak state in 1945, and today the buildings house a regional museum, happily preserving many of the gardens’ finest features.

Schloss Wlaschim in Bohemia (Vlašim, Czechia)
the Chinese Pavilion at Vlašim

The 6th Prince of Auersperg, Wilhelm I, presided over the family between 1800 and 1822. During this time, the Holy Roman Empire came to an end (1806), and tiny principalities like Tengen were absorbed by their larger neighbours, in this case the Grand Duchy of Baden. The Auerspergs retained the property, but the Prince decided to sell it to the Grand Duke outright in 1811. Meanwhile, the duchy of Gottschee and other castles and estates in Carniola were annexed by the Empire of the French in 1809 as part of its new ‘Illyrian Provinces’. After this territory was regained by the Austrian Empire in 1814 it was renamed the ‘Kingdom of Illyria’, before finally returning to its previous status in 1849 as the Crown Land of Carniola within the Austrian half of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy.

The 7th Prince, Wilhelm II, was only head of the family for five years, dying relatively young in 1827. His uncle Karl von Auersperg-Trautson had no sons, so this inheritance was transferred to the Prince’s nephew, Vincenz Carl, who assumed the title Prince of Auersperg-Trautson. He became Grand Chamberlain of the Austrian court in 1863. It is his descendants who hold the Trautson lands today.

Vincenz Carl, Prince of Auersperg-Trautson

The new head of the family overall, Karl Wilhelm, 8th Prince, was only 13, but eventually he grew and by the 1840s emerged as a youthful leader of the liberal or constitutional party, opponents of the arch-conservative Prince Metternich (as we’ve seen with his soon-to-be kinsman, Count von Breuner, above). When a constitution was finally granted in 1861, Emperor Franz Josef thus turned to Prince von Auersperg to serve as the first President of the new Austrian House of Lords. He also served as a member of the Bohemian Landtag and at times as that body’s president. After the Compromise of 1867 (creating an entirely separate Kingdom of Hungary), the Emperor asked Auersperg to form a liberal government for the Austrian half (‘Cisleithania’) of the Dual Monarchy. But he resigned after only a year as Minister-President due to conflicts with concessions being demanded by ethnic minorities, notably the Czechs—for although he considered himself a liberal, like most of his landowning magnate class, he favoured centralisation and a blending of cultures, not the separatism being demanded by nationalist movements. From 1868 to 1879, he resumed his position as President of the Austrian House of Lords. He had no children and died in 1890.

Karl Wilhelm, 8th Prince of Auersperg, Minister-President of Austria

Meanwhile, the Prince’s brother Adolf, was also a political force in Vienna. Born at Vašim, he also served a term as president of the Landtag of Bohemia, 1867-70, then a similar role in the province of Salzburg, 1870. From 1871 to 79, he took on his older brother’s role as Minister-President of Austria, but he too resigned over a question about Slavs, this time in Bosnia (newly occupied in 1878). His resignation effectively marked the end of liberalism as a leading party in Austria.

Prince Adolf von Auersperg, also Minister-President of Austria

Adolf’s son Karl took over as 9th Prince of Auersperg in 1890. He was quite close to Emperor’s son Crown Prince Rudolf (born just a year apart), and was shattered by his friend’s suicide in 1889. He took up his seat in the Austrian House of Lords and rose to be its vice-president from 1897 to 1907. He still sat as a member of the liberal-constitutional party, but never rose to greater prominence in the Imperial government. He turned much of his attentions instead to his estates back in Carniola and his role as president of the diet there, and in 1907 was elected to represent Gottschee in the lower house of the Austrian Parliament. In 1885, he married Countess Eleonore von Breuner, which brings us back to the start of this story and into the orbit of the Von Trapp family.

Karl, 9th Prince of Auersperg, 1902

After 1918, princely and ducal titles were abolished in Austria, and Carniola became Slovenia, one of the component parts of the new Kingdom of Yugoslavia. The 9th Prince died in 1927, leaving the now empty titles to his grandson, Karl Adolf—his elder son Adolf had died in 1923, while his younger son Karl assumed the name Auersperg-Breunner, and founded a new branch with the Breunner family properties, many which were surely well known to the Von Trapp cousins—when visiting Vienna for example. The heads of both branches moved to South America after the Second World War, the senior line to Uruguay and the junior to Argentina. Some remain in South America today while others have returned to Europe. The head of the junior branch, Prince Franz-Josef of Auersperg-Breuner (b. 1956), has a son and heir, Camilo, born in Buenos Aires, while the head of the senior branch, Adolf Karl, 11th Prince von Auersperg (b. 1937), has a son and heir, Carl Adolf, born in Montevideo.

Karl Adolf, 10th Prince of Auersperg, and Margit Batthyány, 1937

Many Austrian nobles emigrated to the Americas, like the Von Trapps, in the 1940s either for an innocent fresh start after the horrors of the Nazi era in their country or in many cases to escape their darker histories. One of the Auersperg-Trautsons was Alfred, a leading university psychologist in Vienna in the 1930s who became a Nazi Party member and part of the SS, and led some of the more questionable advances in neuroscience in the early 1940s. Fired from his job in 1945, he left for Brazil, then was invited to Chile to set up a psychology clinic in 1949, at a time when Chile’s government was shifting to the right. Another younger son from the Trautson branch rose to prominence, but this time—again making a connection with the Von Trapps—in music: Johannes Auersperg was a double bass player and teacher in Austria in the 1960s-70s. An early supporter of the baroque music revival of that era, he formed the Austrian Barocktrio and later led the Austrian Youth Orchestra and taught at the University of Graz.

Johannes Auersperg, professor of music

Let the sound of music play on!

the main doorway at Burg Wels, Upper Austria, with the Auersperg arms

Gesualdo: Princes of Venosa and a composer-murderer

I’ve just finished watching the last season of ‘My Brilliant Friend’ so my mind is focused on all things Neapolitan, and more troubling, about a world drenched in passion and violence. There were hundreds of wealthy aristocratic families in the Kingdom of Naples who were given princely titles—the highest honour, but without any sovereign status as in other parts of Europe—but none ended so suddenly and dramatically as the Gesualdo princes of Venosa, whose last member of the main line was both one of the most brilliant composers of the late Renaissance and a troubled soul who murdered his wife in a a fit of rage.

a cheesy image from the web: composer, music, murdered spouse…

Carlo Gesualdo’s music is incredible, strange, beautiful, conflicted, with harmonies several centuries ahead of their time, tonal clashes and deep emotional sighs. Anyone who has sung one of his madrigals or church anthems will never forget the experience. Few probably know that he was a prince of ancient lineage, or indeed about his murderous past.

The Gesualdo family was in fact ancient, going back to the Norman conquest of the southern Italian lands of Sicily, Calabria, Apulia and Campania (the countryside around Naples) in the eleventh century. They became lords of Gesualdo in about 1140, counts of Conza in 1452 and princes of Venosa in 1561. The main line was extinguished in 1613 with the death of the composer-prince, but there was a cadet branch, the lords of Santo Stefano, who were created princes of Gesualdo in 1704, but died out again in 1770.

Gesualdo Castle and the mighty Apennine mountains of Irpinia

The Gesualdo lordship itself is even older. For four hundred years before the invasion of the Normans, another family ruled this important fief in Campania, in the province of Avellino—a region the ancients called Irpinia (the mountainous interior east of the City of Naples). They were likely descended from Germanic Lombard warriors who took over this region in the sixth and seventh centuries. The legendary founder, a knight called Giswald, was in the service if Romwald, Duke of Beneventum; he was captured by Byzantine troops besieging that city in 663, but he managed to trick his captors into warning his duke of their arrival, saving the city, but losing his life as a result. Romwald honoured his name by giving it to a hilltop castle held by his family, Italianised as Gesualdo. The castle we see today, with its four great circular towers dates from the ninth century—built in a period when the frontiers of Beneventum were again threatened, now by Saracens. It was later enlarged in the 1130s by its Norman rulers. For centuries it remained strategically placed to defend this border zone in struggles between France and Aragon over the Kingdom of Naples, but after the latter’s complete victory in the region in 1504, it lost its strategic value. It would eventually pass to another family in 1772, and was sacked by invading French troops in 1799. In the nineteenth century Gesualdo Castle was owned by the Caracciolo princely family then the Caccese, who restored it in the 1850s and made it liveable again. It was badly damaged in the terrible earthquake of 1980 that destroyed many towns in this region (see below), and has only within the last decade been re-opened to the public.

In the late 1030s, a group of adventurers arrived in southern Italy, descendants of the Viking warriors who had settled a corner of northwest France and renamed it Normandy. Several of these came from one family, the sons of Tancred, ruler of a small village of Hauteville in the Contentin, the peninsula that juts out from Normandy into the English Channel. The name Hauteville likely simply means ‘upper estate’, but the more romantic tale is that it took its name from an ancestor, the famous Viking Hialt, a companion of Rollo. The name was later Italianised to Altavilla. Of the many sons of Tancred, two of them, Guglielmo and Drogo, staked claims to rule parts of the old Byzantine province of Apulia (the heel of Italy’s boot). The more famous brothers were Robert Guiscard who turned these lands into the Duchy of Apulia and Calabria (the toe as well as the heel), and Roger, who conquered the island of Sicily from the Saracens in 1071. His son Roger II went one further and became the first king of Sicily in 1130. His cousin, Roger Borsa (Guiscard’s son), was Duke of Apulia and Calabria until 1111, and left behind at least two sons: one legitimate, Guglielmo II, who ruled as duke until 1127, and one illegitimate, also named Guglielmo, possibly by a lady of the ancient Gesualdo family. The link between Guglielmo d’Altavilla and the Norman Hautevilles is impossible to prove, and indeed there are several other families in the region who also claim illegitimate descent, like the Ruggieri (taking their name from Roger’s Italian name) or the Rossi, princes of Cerami.

Southern Italy before it was fused into the Kingdom of Sicily in 1130.
Most of the fiefs mentioned in this post are located a little to the south of Ariano

What is known for certain is that by 1141 Guglielmo d’Altavilla was established in the lordship of Gesualdo and had married the heiress of the neighbouring lordship of Lucera. By the end of the century, the Barony of Gesualdo was one of the largest within the Kingdom of Sicily (which now included both the island and the mainland), with over thirty lordships spread over three provinces. The power of lords like those at Gesualdo in Campania was especially strong given their distance from the royal court in Palermo. Guglielmo’s sons held the highest positions in the royal government and military: Elia (Italian for Elijah) was Justiciar and Constable of the Kingdom in 1183, while Aristolfo was named commander of the Sicilian armies in the Second and Third Crusades (1147 and 1189).

arms of the House of Altavilla / Gesualdo

The last legitimate Norman king of Sicily died in 1189, and a power struggle between a legitimate daughter and an illegitimate son (also named Tancred) resulted in the takeover by the Holy Roman Emperor Henry VI from the Hohenstaufen dynasty. In the years that followed, the landholdings of the Altavilla family—who started to use the surname Gesualdo at this point, probably wisely distancing themselves from the disgraced former ruling dynasty—were significantly reduced. The family soon recovered their prominent position in royal government by joining forces with a new invader: Charles of Anjou, who became King of Sicily in 1266. Elia II, Lord of Gesualdo, was named Marshal of Sicily in 1266, and Justiciar of Calabria in 1269. His son Nicola I also supported the Angevins, especially after they were chased from Sicily in the Sicilian Vespers of 1282, and was named Captain-General of the City of Naples in 1289. In 1299 he was confirmed as Baron of Gesualdo. His nephew Nicola II was then Vicar-General of the Kingdom for King Robert of Anjou, while his son Matteo served as a chamberlain to this king and to his granddaughter Queen Giovanna I. In 1344, his brother Ruggero was elected Bishop of Nusco, whose see was in the same area as their landholdings in Campania, while the youngest, Francesco, married the heiress of the lordship of Bisaccia (on the eastern edges of Campania) and left many descendants.

In the next generation, Luigi I, Lord of Gesualdo, continued service to the Angevins, as Major Domo to King Charles III in the 1380s. In this century their chief residence became a fine castle, Calitri, perched atop a hill in close proximity to their other fiefs in this region. Calitri was built before the twelfth century and was surrounded by ancient houses built into the hilltop itself. The Gesualdos developed it into a sumptuous lordly residence. Like we’ve seen so far several times, it was destroyed and rebuilt several times by earthquakes over the centuries, and remains heavily damaged from the quake of 1980.

the Castle and Borgo of Calitri

In a similar manner, the House of Anjou came crashing down in 1435, and families like the Gesualdos scrambled for power in the ensuing conflict between French and Spanish contenders for the throne. Either Luigi II or Sansone II was created count of Conza, another one of the family’s lordships in Campania. The 4th Count, Fabrizio, was named a Grandee of Spain in 1536, as a sign of his family’s now firm loyalty to the new dynasty, the Habsburgs. The ancient Roman town of Compsa sat on the strategic pass towards Salerno and the coast. It had been the seat of a bishop since the eighth century, raised to an archbishopric in the eleventh. The family owned a castle nearby called Castelnuovo di Conza. Frequent earthquakes in this region meant that by the sixteenth century, the archbishops more usually resided in Sant’Andrea di Conza—and this was one of the worst hit spots in the earthquake of 1980s. Conza was entirely destroyed and the archbishopric permanently moved to Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi with a brand new cathedral.

the ruins of the old Cathedral of Conza

Several Gesualdos held this see, four archbishops of Conza in a row (almost) between 1517 and 1608: Camillo was first, for eighteen years, followed by his nephew Troaino for four. After a gap of just over twenty years, his nephew, Alfonso, was appointed. At the time of his appointment, Alfonso Gesualdo was also a cardinal, one of the youngest at only 21. He had a long and illustrious career in the Church—as candidate for the papal throne several times, and ultimately Dean of the College of Cardinals—and was appointed Archbishop of Naples in 1596, reigning there until his death in 1603.

Cardinal Alfonso Gesualdo with San Gennaro, patron saint of Naples

Cardinal Gesualdo had resigned the see of Conza to a cousin from a junior branch, Scipione Gesualdo, in 1584, who ruled the diocese until his death in 1608. Another cousin, Ascanio, took over as head of the Gesualdos’ ecclesiastical arm when he was appointed Archbishop of Bari in 1613 and titular Patriarch of Constantinople in 1618 during his posting in Prague as Nuncio to the Holy Roman Emperor.

The uncle of the Cardinal, Luigi IV, Count of Conza, was raised a rung in the aristocratic hierarchy when he was created Prince of Venosa in 1561. He had acquired more estates and wealth through his marriage to Isabella Ferrillo, heiress of the barony of Montefredane and large sums of cash, with which he purchased the city of Venosa. He was an efficient financial manager and became one of the richest men in the Kingdom. He was also an advisor to the government of Philip II, and a patron of poets and musicians in Naples.

Venosa was a very ancient city; the Romans called it Venusia, clearly named for the Goddess of Love. The legend was that Diomedes, King of Argos, founded it after the fall of Troy and named it as an apology to Venus for having offended her in thinking Helen was so beautiful.  It was strategically located, on the border between Apulia and Lucania on the Via Appia (the road from Rome to Apulia), in a province now called Basilicata. Its other claim to fame in ancient times was as the birthplace of the poet Horace. It was one of the early bases of the Altavilla dynasty, who buried some of their lords there; the Emperor Frederick II built a new castle in the early thirteenth century, while Charles of Anjou refortified it, and set it up as an autonomous county for his son Robert a few decades later. The County of Venosa passed to the powerful Orsini family in 1453, then by marriage to the Del Balzo, who built another new castle there in 1470—square with four massive cylindrical towers. The Gesualdo family only held it from 1561 to 1613. Since then it has been the seat of the Academia dei Rinascenti, and since 1991 it has housed a new National Museum of Venosa.

the castle of Venosa

In a dramatic shift away from the focus on wealth of his father, Fabrizio Gesualdo, 2nd Prince of Venosa, was quite pious. He stood out amongst other Neapolitan nobles, and even more so through the company he kept, as a friend of his brother-in-law Cardinal Carlo Borromeo, Archbishop of Milan. As part of the marriage settlements for Geronima Borromeo, the pope, Pius IV (the bride’s uncle), the principality of Venosa was confirmed for the family, and Fabrizio’s brother Alfonso was given his cardinal’s cap (see above). Cardinal Borromeo was one of the leaders of the Catholic Church’s internal reforms of the 1560s-70s—he would be canonised in 1610.

The product of this union of wealth and piety was Carlo Gesualdo, 3rd Prince of Venosa and composer of sublime music. He was initially the second son, and was sent to Rome to be raised by his two cardinal uncles for an elevated career in the Church. Already he displayed an interest in music, and was certainly well placed in Rome to learn from the best. He learned to play many instruments, including the lute and the harpsichord. But his older brother Luigi died from a horse-riding accident in 1584, making Carlo the heir. Two years later he married Maria d’Avalos, daughter of the Prince of Montesarchio (who was also his first cousin). He spent much of his time in Naples residing in the palace of relatives, the Palazzo San Severo (aka di Sangro). One day in October 1590 he arrived there to find his wife in bed with Fabrizio Carafa, Duke of Andria, and he killed them both on the spot. An official investigation concluded that he had committed no crime.

Carlo Gesualdo, Prince of Venosa

A few years later he travelled north, to the court of the Duke of Ferrara, at that time one of the leading centres of music, particularly the style of secular song known as the madrigal. He married a cousin of the Duke, Leonora d’Este, and spent several years in her hometown learning the craft of composing. When they eventually returned south to the castles of Gesualdo and Venosa—his father having died in 1593, Carlo was now the prince—his wife complained of abuse but was unsuccessful in obtaining a divorce. By this time, Gesualdo’s story of his first wife’s murder was already sensational and the inspiration for poets and novelists (and indeed, when interest in his music was revived in the 1920s, so too was interest in the story, inspiring a large number of operas—though I can’t say any of them ever reached number one). It doesn’t hurt that the palace in Naples was named ‘di Sangro’ (‘bloody’, though just by coincidence).

main entrance to the Palazzo di Sangro, Naples

The Prince began publishing music himself as well, adding five more books of madrigals on top of the one he had published in Ferrara. He became a recluse and his music more contorted and expressive, particularly his religious anthems and music meant to accompany the Tenebrae services in the days of mourning preceding Easter. Was it intense remorse for his actions, or the onset of mental illness? Guilt-driven depression may have been intensified by the death of his only son Emanuele, in August 1613 in a hunting accident, and he followed his son to the grave a few weeks later in September.

a book of madrigals published by Gesualdo, with both his family arms and those of his Este wife
Gesualdo’s madrigal, ‘Sento che nel partire’

All that was left of this branch of the Gesualdo family were several women: the composer’s widow, Leonora, who lived until 1637, his son’s widow, Maria Polyxena von Fürstenberg (who remarried, but not until many years later), and her two daughters. While the younger, Eleonora, became a nun in Naples, the elder, Isabella, became Princess of Venosa, Countess of Conza, and Lady of Gesualdo. She took these properties by marriage into the family of Ludovisi—a Roman princely family I have written about here. They retained the title Prince of Venosa into the present.

Meanwhile there was a cadet branch of the family. Back in the fourteenth century, a younger son received the lordship of Pescopagano, across the frontier from Campania in Basilicata (though not far). Like most towns in this region, it was built around a bold castle atop a rocky hill.

Pescopagano

This branch gained other lordships in the region, intermarried with other noble Neapolitan families (Carafa, del Balzo, Caracciolo), and supplied sons for the local abbeys and bishoprics (including two of the archbishops looked at above). In the sixteenth century, Fabio Gesualdo di Pescopagano purchased another fief, Santo Stefano, also in Avellino province. The family moved into the ‘palazzo baronale’, which is today the town hall.

the Baronial Palace, Santo Stefano

Following the extinction of the senior line, this junior line of Gesualdo di Santo Stefano purchased some of the family fiefs, including in the castle of Gesualdo itself. This was then raised to the rank of a principality in 1704 by the new king of Naples, Philip V, of the House of Bourbon. His rule was short in Naples, however, due to the War of Spanish Succession, and the title would need to be re-confirmed once the Bourbons returned to power in 1734. By this point, the 1st Prince (Domenico) was dead, and his son (Nicola) had become head of the house—he had been created Marchese of Santo Stefano in 1711, I assume by the Austrians who ruled in Naples after Philip V had been driven out. He died in 1738, and his son then ruled their tiny principality for another 32 years before he too died, with no heirs except a few sisters who had taken vows as nuns so couldn’t inherit anything. I have not found any images of these Gesualdo princes or really any biographical information about their lives.

Though the fief of Gesualdo itself was sold in 1772 to the Caracciolo family, the princely title was inherited by a first cousin, Oderisio di Sangro—from the same family who owned the palazzo of that name we’ve seen before in Naples—who much earlier (1720) had purchased the principality of Fondi (closer to Rome) from the Mansfeld family. This family continues to exist, and its head today, Riccardo di Sangro (b. 1959), uses the title 15th Prince of Gesualdo.

another view of Gesualdo Castle

Ponce de León and the Dukes of Arcos: Andalusian Lords and the First Floridian

Most American schoolchildren have heard of Ponce de Leon, when learning about the early Spanish explorers of the New World—after Cortes and Pizarro heading to Mexico and Peru, most can recall that Ponce de Leon went north in 1513 and discovered a new land he named La Florida, ‘the land of flowers’. I admit, I thought for a long time that his first name was Ponce (perhaps like Ponch, from CHiPs?); it is in fact Juan, though the name Ponce was indeed once a first name borne by an ancestor from the late twelfth century. More intriguingly, the ‘de León’ part comes from that first Ponce’s son’s excellent marriage to an illegitimate daughter of the king of León, Alfonso IX. But though the Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León is certainly reckoned to be part of this extensive family, it is curious that scholars are unsure of exactly where he fits in its dynastic history.

a map of the Caribbean from 1594, with La Florida at top, and Puerto Rico right of centre (pink)

The rest of the family history is well known and forms a key part of the history of the Spanish monarchy in the extension of royal power into the southern parts of the Iberian peninsula. By the early fifteenth century they were major landowners in Andalusia, with two key fortresses near the ancient city of Cadiz: Arcos and Zahara. The senior branch was even named Duke of Cadiz in 1484, but in the absence of direct male heirs, this title reverted to the Crown less than ten years later. The Duke’s wealth and subsidiary titles, however, passed to a junior branch, who were shortly after created Duke of Arcos. Their descendants were prominent grandees in the seventeenth century, with two brothers in particular, Rodrigo and Luis, serving the Habsburgs as viceroy and governor in Naples and Milan; while their sister, Elvira, was head of the household of Queen Mariana of Austria, regent for her young son Carlos II. Like many of the ducal families of Spain in this century, the dukes of Arcos swept up heiresses of other ducal families, such that by the 1720s the 7th Duke of Arcos was also Duke of Ciudad Real, Duke of Maqueda and Duke of Nájera, while his brother the 1st Duke of Baños also became 7th Duke of Aveiro. Although there were four healthy sons in the next generation, none of them produced any children, so this massive windfall—the collected inheritances of the houses of Ponce de León, Cárdenas, Manrique de Lara and Lencastre—all passed in 1780 into the house of Pimentel-Benavente, and on to one of the grandest of all Spanish aristocratic families, the Téllez-Girón dukes of Osuna—but their story will be told elsewhere.

arms of the dukes of Arcos

The coat of arms of the family also point to their semi-royal origins: with the red lion of León on one side, and the red and gold stripes of Catalonia on the other—all framed by eight small shields of blue and gold representing an old family from Navarre. This reference to Catalonia recalls the ancient surname of the family, Cabrera, so we can start there.

Cabrera was once an independent viscounty in the eastern foothills of the Pyrenees, founded in the early eleventh century and eventually absorbed into the County of Barcelona, aka the Principality of Catalonia. The name Ponce comes from here too: as the Spanish version of the Catalan name Ponç (itself a variant of the then common French name Pons, which is related to the Roman name Pontius). Ponç de Cabrera came to the court of Alfonso VII, King of Castile and León, in about 1130, in the entourage of his new wife, Berenguela, daughter of the Count of Barcelona. After service in wars in Castile, Ponce was created a count in 1143 and became the King’s Mayordomo in 1145. He married his daughter Sancha to the Mayordomo of Alfonso VII’s younger son, King Fernando II, Count Vela Gutierrez, who adopted the Cabrera name and arms. Vela Gutierrez was the son of Count Gutierro Vermudez (Spain’s nobility was using patronymics still at this stage) who is thought to be descended from the Vermudez (or Bermudez) clan of Asturias—Bermudo Nuñez is said to be a grandson of King Ordoño I of Asturias (died 866). So, ancient stock indeed.

Sancha and Vela had several sons, who took the surname Vela or Velaz de Cabrera. The youngest, Abbot Pedro, was Mayordomo and Chancellor of King Fernando II of León, while his older brother, Ponce, became alférez, or master of arms, of his son Alfonso IX in 1188. Ponce’s son Pedro Ponce de Cabrera took over his father’s role as head of the military household, and continued it into the reign of Fernando III. Fernando reunited both Castile and León from 1230 and launched a massive crusade to reconquer the south of the Iberian peninsula from its Muslim lords. Cabrera assisted in the conquest of the Umayyad capital city of Córdoba in 1236, and was given lands in that area in reward. He had already been rewarded a few years earlier with the hand of the King’s illegitimate sister (the daughter of Alfonso IX), Aldonza de León, and their son, Fernan Perez (using the patronymic for Pedro) began to add the surname Ponce de León. This generation continued to wield extensive power: Fernan was Mayordomo for Alfonso X, Ayo (governor) of Fernando IV, and Adelantado (king’s representative or senior magistrate) of La Frontera, aka Andalusia, from 1290; his brothers Ruy and Pedro became heads of orders of knighthood, the elder as Grand Master of the Order of Calatrava, and the younger as Comendador mayor of the Order of Santiago.

In the next generation, Pedro Ponce de León continued service in the same vein, as both Mayordomo mayor of King Fernando IV and Adelantado of Asturias, and maintaining the family landholdings in the north; his brother Fernando, Master of the Order of Alcántara, acquired a new lordship for the family in the south in 1309: Marchena in the plains east of Seville. This was an area rich with olive plantations—the name of the town even comes from marshenah, ‘olive trees’ in Arabic. It had initially been taken from the Moors in 1247. Much later, in the 1880s, Marchena was given again as a title, now a dukedom, for junior members of the royal house of Spain (and it still exists today). An early Moorish fortress was converted into a palace, later known as a the Ducal Palace of Marchena; a ruin by the nineteenth century, King Alfonso XIII had its main gateway transferred to the Royal Alcázar of Seville.

the remains of the Palacio Ducal of Marchena now in Seville

Fernando Ponce de León had acquired Marchena through marriage to a daughter of Guzmán el Bueno, one of the chief warlords in Andalusia (I’ve written about his family here). She was also heiress of the town of Rota, an ancient city founded by Phoenicians on the Bay of Cadiz, with a large Castillo de la Luna from the 1290s overlooking chief shipping lanes coming into the Mediterranean. This area around Cadiz would become a chief centre of operations for the Ponce de León dynasty for centuries to come.

Castillo de la Luna in Rota

The lords of Marchena were less prominent at court than their ancestors, but continued to add to their landed wealth in the south (they became known as ‘rico hombres’ of Castile). Pedro, 2nd Lord of Marchena, fought alongside Alfonso XI in the 1330s-40s, and was rewarded with more lands in Andalusia. He was buried in the Monastery of San Augustin in Seville, which was for many years the family sepulchre (but was moved in the nineteenth century to the Church of the Annunciation). Juan, 3rd Lord of Marchena, was involved in one of the many revolts against Pedro I (‘the Cruel’) and was executed in Seville in 1367; soon after, his sister Beatriz’s lover Enrique of Trastámara overthrew his brother Pedro to become King Enrique II of Castile—it is an interesting aside to note that Beatriz’s son by Enrique became the first duke of Benavente, and the heirs to that dukedom would ultimately also inherit the dukedom of the Ponce de León family. Her brother Pedro became 4th Señor of Marchena and married the heiress of another lordship, Bailén, in the former kingdom of Jaén. This old city was located in the agricultural interior of Andalusia, close to the site of one of the grandest battles of the Reconquista, Las Navas de Tolosa (1212).

Their son Pedro became 1st Count of Medellín, in Badajoz (western Castile), in 1429, which he soon exchanged for the town of Arcos de la Frontera, much closer to his power base near Cadiz. Arcos had been the seat of an independent Moorish taifa (or minor kingdom) in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and sat high on top of a cliff with the river Guadalete winding around it on three sides. The castle, from the eleventh century, was rebuilt in the fifteenth and is still linked to some ruins of Arab and even Roman city walls. The Guadalete river emerges from the Sierra Nevada mountains and flows north for a distance before turning south and west and flowing to the sea in the Bay of Cadiz. Somewhere along these banks is the site of the Battle of Guadalete, 711, which marked the end of the dominance of the Visigoths in Iberia and the rise of the Umayyad Caliphate.

Arcos de la Frontera

Juan Ponce de León, 2nd Count of Arcos, was a supporter of King Enrique IV against noble rebels, and captured the city of Cadiz in 1466 from supporters of the King’s half-brother Infante Alfonso. In thanks, the King created him Marques of Cadiz, 1471. Juan married another Guzmán, the most powerful family in the region, as did three of his daughters, and indeed did his brother Luis: Teresa de Guzmán, Señora of Villagarcía, who founded a junior branch, to which we will return below.

But the 1st Marques’s marriage was not fruitful, so he married his concubine and legitimised his sons. The first died before his father, so the second, Rodrigo, became 2nd Marques of Cadiz and 3rd Count of Arcos. The third, Manuel, was given Bailén and eventually made a count (1522)—his descendants held the county of Bailén until 1618, when their lands were re-integrated into the main line of the House of Arcos.

The House of Arcos was propelled into premier rank by Rodrigo, 2nd Marques of Cadiz, who had fought with his father in service of Enrique IV, and for Enrique’s daughter Juana against her cousin, Isabel. But when Isabel emerged triumphant as Queen of Castile in 1476, Cadiz swore loyalty to her and was forgiven, his titles confirmed (despite having married the daughter of the opposition leader, Juan Pacheco). Rodrigo proved his loyalty soon enough by leading Isabel’s armies in the conquest of the Kingdom of Granada. In 1483, he re-took the city of Zahara, in the Sierra de Cadiz—whose capture by the Moors in 1481 had been the pretence to launch this war. Earlier that year, he had captured King Muhammad XII, better known as Boabdil, but convinced the Catholic Kings to release him so as to foment civil war in Granada. He was created Duke of Cadiz in 1484. The Duke then went on to take the fortress of Casares on the western edge of the Sierra Nevada (1485); the city of Málaga (1487); then took part in the final capture of the city of Granada itself in January 1492. His titles expanded further: Marques of Zahara and Count of Casares, with an aim of transmitting the first of these to his daughter and the second to his grandson.

Rodrigo Ponce de León, Duke of Cadiz

The Duke of Cadiz died in August 1492 in Seville. Queen Isabel decreed that the ducal title could not be transmitted to his daughter Francisca, born of a concubine, but she could be Marquesa of Zahara. The dukedom of Cádiz returned to the Crown; it would eventually be re-erected as a dukedom in the nineteenth century for the nephew of King Ferdinand VII and husband of Queen Isabel II, Infante Francisco de Asis. In 1972 it was revived again by General Franco for Don Alfonso de Borbón, one of the claimants to the Spanish throne, and after 1975 chief Legitimist claimant to the throne of France. Since 1989, the title Duque de Cádiz has been held (by tradition, not by law) by his son, Luis Antonio, who also goes by the title Duc d’Anjou (aka King Louis XX to French Legitimists).

Francisca Ponce de León was 2nd Marquesa de Zahara. This ancient Moorish fortress was also on the river Guadalete (before its flows past Arcos) and probably takes its name from the Arabic sahra (sterile, dry, rocky). It had been captured by Christian armies in 1407, and now returned to Castilian hands to become a central part of the Ponce de León patrimony. Casares, which passed to her son, Rodrigo, was located further east in the province of Málaga. Francisca was also 4th Countess of Arcos and 8th Lady of Marchena. Her husband was Luis Ponce de León, a cousin and head of the junior branch of the family, the lords of Villagarcía. This lordship, Villagarcía de la Torre, was near Badajoz and the frontier with Portugal. Its castle was built in the fifteenth century on top of a much older fortress. It survived for many centuries, but  was mostly destroyed in the Carlist wars of the nineteenth century.

Zahara
Casares
Villagarcia

The Ponce de León family also acquired about this time a grand house in the city of Jerez, which was branded the Palacio de los Ponce de León and remained their primary seat for the next two centuries. In the late eighteenth century it passed to the Ysasi family, who later donated it to the city of Jerez. Today it houses a convent school.

Palacio de los Ponce de León in Jerez

Luis and Francisca were married in 1487 and were permitted to retain most of the late Duke’s properties, but not the ducal title—as a special concession, however, their son Rodrigo, born in 1488, was named 1st Duke of Arcos in 1493. The line thus continued through him.

Before proceeding to the dukes of Arcos, however, this is where scholars think to insert the explorer Juan Ponce de León. He may have been the younger brother of Luis, Lord of Villagarcía, and probably served with his cousin the Duke of Cadiz in the conquest of Granada in 1492. For such a prominent historical figure, it is strange that his exact parentage is not known, or even his birthdate (1460? 1474?). To me this sounds like something fishy is going on… so perhaps he was an adopted son, or product of adultery (though in that time illegitimate children were rarely hidden amongst the Spanish aristocracy). Speculating wildly, maybe he was a secret child of one of the last kings of Granada, captured and raised as a Christian by the Duke of Cadiz? Such things have been known to happen. Anyway, what is known is that he sailed on the second expedition led by Christopher Columbus to the Indies in 1493, and stayed in the region (with some trips back to Spain) for the rest of his life. The governor of Hispaniola charged him with putting down a rebellion of native Tainos in 1504 and was given that region (the eastern end of the island) to govern, with lands and slaves for his plantations. Hearing tales of gold to be found on the neighbouring island of San Juan (today called Puerto Rico), he was charged with a formal expedition in 1508. Gold was indeed found, and a new settlement started, Caparra. Here he settled with his family as governor of the island from 1509. The capital was later moved a bit to the east, closer to the port, and renamed San Juan.

the ruins at Caparra, San Juan, Puerto Rico

Ponce de León was a brutal governor, forcing the natives into slavery and fighting with Diego Colón (Columbus’s son) who claimed the right to rule over him from Hispaniola. King Ferdinand back in Spain seemed to want to support Ponce de León in the face of Colón’s better legal claims, so encouraged the former to travel north to explore other islands, with a very generous contract that would allow him to keep much of the spoils. The contract mentions gold and slaves, but nothing about a ‘fountain of youth’, so that story was invented later—first appearing in biographies about Ponce de León long after his death. He sighted land in Easter 1513, and the name Florida may refer to the Spanish tradition of celebrating La Pascua Florida (‘flowery Easter’). That year, his crew explored the east coast, the keys, the west coast perhaps as far north as Tampa Bay, then returned to Puerto Rico. He travelled to Spain and was re-confirmed by the King as governor, and given a coat of arms (said to be a first for a conquistador, but certainly not something he would have needed if he was indeed the son of a Ponce de León lord?). In the spring of 1521, he organised a large-scale colonisation expedition to Florida, aiming for somewhere on the southwest coast—but they were chased off by natives and he was wounded in a skirmish; they retreated to Havana, Cuba, where Juan Ponce de León died later that year. He is buried in the cathedral of San Juan, Puerto Rico.

a statue of Juan Ponce de León in San Juan

Another Ponce de León of this generation who played a—very brief—part in the governing of the new Spanish colonies was Luis, a judge in Cordoba, who was appointed by the King to travel to Mexico in 1526 as Governor of New Spain, in an effort to restore order to the government of Hernán Cortés. He arrived in July and died after only a few days—Cortés was suspected but the King was powerless to do much about it.

There are two other Juan Ponce de Leóns associated with the history of Puerto Rico. As was common, a Spanish nobleman often used his mother’s surname if she was of higher rank (which may explain the unclear links with both the governors of Puerto Rico and New Spain above), so we have the conquistador’s daughter’s son, Juan II, a coloniser of the island of Trinidad and briefly governor of Puerto Rico in the 1570s, and his son, Juan III, coloniser of the south coast of Puerto Rico for whom the island’s second city (Ponce) is named.

a Dutch navigator’s map of Hispaniola and Puerto Rico, 1660s

Still another with this surname, Pedro Ponce de León, was a cleric and an advisor to King Charles (Emperor Charles V). Like Juan II above, he was actually only a Ponce de León via his mother. He made his mark as a bishop in Spain, first in Ciudad Rodrigo then in Plasencia (1560), and amassed one of the largest private libraries of his time—now part of the royal collections in the Escorial. In 1572, he was appointed Grand Inquisitor of Spain, but died before he could take up the office.

Meanwhile, the 1st Duke of Arcos consolidated his family’s holdings in Andalusia inherited from his mother and grandfather. He married Isabel Pacheco, whose grandfather had been the same leader of the rebellion against Queen Isabel noted above. The Duke served the Crown as the alguacil mayor (or sheriff) of Seville, and died in 1530.

Rodrigo Ponce de León, 1st Duke of Arcos

The 2nd and 3rd dukes did not play a major role in history: they fought in the King’s wars abroad in Flanders and at home in Iberia—against Moriscos, Portuguese, and English pirates invading their home region of Cadiz (1587). Both dukes were awarded knighthoods in the Order of the Golden Fleece like others of their class.

The son of the 3rd Duke, Luis, 6th Marques of Zahara (the title used for the heir), died before succeeding, so the title passed in 1630 to another Rodrigo, 4th Duke of Arcos. He is probably the most famous member of the family, as Viceroy of Naples from 1646. He successfully suppressed a popular rebellion led by the fisherman Masaniello in July 1647, only to lose control a month later when the Neapolitans proclaimed a republic. He was recalled to Spain in disgrace and replaced as viceroy, and died a decade later. Arcos became the main baddie in an opera about the Masianello revolt, La Muette de Portici (though he’s called ‘Alphonse, Comte d’Arcos’), composed by Daniel Auber, which premiered in Paris in 1828—it became famous as the opera that birthed a nation when a riot began during the second act (supposedly in the duet ‘Amour sacré de la patrie’—sacred love of the fatherland) when it was staged in Brussels in August 1830.

Rodrigo, 4th Duke of Arcos, Viceroy of Naples

By the time of the 4th Duke’s death, his sister Elvira, Marquesa de Villanueva de Valdueza, was rising in prominence as Camarera mayor of Queen Mariana (from 1654). Mariana became regent of Spain for her son King Carlos II in 1665, making her chief lady one of the most powerful women in Spain. During her regency, Doña Elvira was in charge of the Queen Mother’s correspondence and arranging access to her chambers for visiting diplomats. Her brother Luis was at the time serving as Governor of Milan, which was, after Naples, the most important possession of the Spanish Crown in Italy. He died there in 1668.

a portrait of Queen Mariana and her court, about 1672 (Caspar Netscher), with Doña Elvira, Marquesa de Villanueva de Valdueza standing behind her, and like her, dressed in the habit of a nun.

Francisco, 5th Duke of Arcos, married three times, but died childless in 1673, leaving his titles and estates to his brother Manuel. The 6th Duke had already married Maria de Guadalupe de Lencastre, Duchess of Aveiro and Duchess of Maqueda, who has already been written about in context of the Portuguese dukedom of Aveiro. Part of an agreement by the King of Portugal to allow her to use the Portuguese titles in 1679 was that she had to move back to Portugal; her husband refused to grant his permission, so she legally separated from him and moved to Lisbon. It was agreed that their eldest son would be heir to the Ponce de León and other Spanish titles, while their younger son would inherit those of Portugal.

Duke Manuel died in 1693, so his son Joaquin became 7th Duke of Arcos, and also duke of Ciudad Real, Maqueda and Najera. He held the prominent positions in Spain of Adelantado mayor of Granada, Comendador mayor of Castile for the Order of Calatrava, and played an important role in the War of Spanish Succession by publicly adhering to the new Bourbon king, Philip V, bringing his huge fortune and extensive patronage networks with him. The King in return named him to his Council of State and Viceroy of Valencia, 1705-06. The Duke’s brother Gabriel took the surname ‘de Lencastre’ and waited for his share of the succession, since their mother did not die until 1715. In an effort to retain his loyalty in Spain, not Portugal, Carlos II had created the latter Duke of Baños in 1699. I haven’t been able to find out which of the many places in Spain with this name the dukedom is based on, but it may have been Baños de la Encina in Jaén, as this town was close to the Ponce de León County of Bailén. When Don Gabriel died in 1745, this dukedom was permitted to pass to his nephew Antonio by order of the Spanish king Ferdinand VI, but he was not allowed to succeed to the Portuguese titles, which went instead to cousins in the family of Mascarenhas.

The 7th Duke of Arcos had four healthy sons, but as noted above, none of them had any children. The 8th Duke (Joaquin II) was a general serving in the Spanish armies fighting in Italy in the War of Austrian Succession—he was wounded in battle near Bologna, 1743, and died shortly after. His brother, Manuel, 9th Duke, was also a general fighting in the same campaign, and died a year later, in 1744. The titles of Arcos, Maqueda and Najera passed to the next brother, Francisco, who married in 1745 in an attempt to sire an heir, but he died in 1763 without one, leaving everything to the fourth and last brother, Antonio, who as we have seen was already titled 2nd Duke of Baños. This 11th Duke of Arcos had been an aide-de-camp to the Infante Felipe back in the 1740s when that prince (the youngest son of Philip V) was fighting to gain his patrimony in Italy (the duchy of Parma), then served as a captain in the Spanish king’s Bodyguard. In 1772, now a duke four times over, he was named Captain-General, the top rank in the Spanish Army. But he died with no direct heir in 1780 and everything was up for grabs.

Bust of Antonio, 11th Duke of Arcos

The ducal titles of Maqueda and Najera went in one direction, and the titles of the House of Arcos went another, to the niece of the 5th and 6th dukes, Maria Josefa Pimentel de Borja, 12th Duchess of Benavente in her own right, and Duchess of Osuna by marriage. There’s a lovely portrait of the 12th Duchess of Arcos by Goya (1785). All her titles passed to her grandson, the 11th Duke of Osuna, of the house of Téllez-Girón, in 1834.

Maria Josefa, 12th Duchess of Arcos, 12th Duchess of Benavente, by Goya (1785)

In 1882 the 12th Duke of Osuna (and 14th Duke of Acos) died and his many many titles were fought over in the courts for a decade. In 1892, the dukedom of Arcos was awarded to a nephew, Count José Brunetti (son of a count from Pisa, Austrian ambassador to Madrid in the 1820s). The 15th Duke of Arcos—a separate title once again—was a well-travelled diplomat, with posts in South America gradually leading to stints as ambassador to the United States in 1898 (immediately following Spain’s humiliating defeat and loss of Cuba and Puerto Rico—an interesting second appearance of that island in this blog!), then in Belgium (1902), Russia (1904) and Italy (1905). While in the United States he had met and married Virginia Woodbury Lowery, granddaughter of a Secretary of the Treasury and Supreme Court Justice. Together the Duke and Duchess of Arcos became patrons of higher education (with scholarships at Harvard University) and of the arts, donating a sizeable collection of priceless paintings to the Prado after the Duke’s death in 1928.  They had no children, so the title of Arcos went back to the next heir of the dukedom of Osuna, Angela Maria Téllez-Girón. The 16th Duchess of Arcos died in 2015, followed by her daughter in 2016. The title is now held by the latter’s daughter, Maria Cristina de Ulloa y Solís-Beaumont, 18th Duchess of Arcos (b. 1980).

José Brunetti, 15th Duke of Arcos

The name Arcos is not one of the most well known amongst the dukes and princes of Spain, but the surname Ponce de León certainly made its mark in the New World!

Noailles—a major court family at Versailles, and patrons of the arts in the 20th century

One of my favourite scenes in the movie Marie-Antoinette (2006) is the one in which the new Dauphine of France wakes up in the morning and is totally bewildered by the extremely complicated routine at Versailles, explained to her by the Comtesse de Noailles (whom she dubs ‘Madame Etiquette’), played by the wonderfully frosty Judy Davis. Her husband’s family had been one of the most influential at Versailles for a century, since the reign of Louis XIV—and certainly suffered for it during the French Revolution: Madame Etiquette herself was executed in June 1794. Although she was referred to in the film (and indeed at court) as a countess, she was in fact entitled to be a duchess—even twice over—of Poix in France and of Mouchy in Spain. Her husband the Duke of Mouchy was the founder of the junior line of the family, with his elder brother in the top position as 4th Duke of Noailles. The Duke of Noailles was also Duke of Ayen (the title used for his heir). So by the start of the French Revolution there were four dukedoms in one family: Noailles, Ayen, Mouchy and Poix.

Judy Davis as the Countess of Noailles instructs the new Dauphine in the film Marie-Antoinette (2006)
the actual ‘Madame Ettiquette’, Anne d’Arpajan

Both branches of the Noailles family survived the Revolution, and continued to be prominent in France, with two particularly influential women as patrons of the avant garde art scene in the mid-20th century. I first became aware of Marie-Laure de Noailles when I was in my twenties and obsessing over the diaries of the American composer Ned Rorem. She was his patron, as she was to Poulenc, Milhaud, and many other composers and artists. She has been called the surrealists’ muse. I love the image of her, in her sixties, joining the radical movement of protesting students in Paris in 1968—driving her Rolls Royce up to the barricades in solidarity! More recently I have been reading about a distant cousin, Solange d’Ayen, who features in the new film Lee—about former model and war photographer Lee Miller, whose friends (referred to in the film only as ‘the Duke’ and ‘the Duchess’) were both prisoners of the Nazis during World War II. Both had been important patrons of the art world in Paris: Solange had been a fashion editor at Vogue in the late 1920s. She survived the prison camp; her husband did not. And in this artistic vein, there was still another woman, the Duke’s aunt, Anna de Noailles, born a Romanian princess of the house of Bibesco, who was herself an important poet and salon hostess in Paris in the first years of the twentieth century, part of the social circle of writers like Marcel Proust, and muse to numerous artists of the turn of the century.

Marie-Laure de Noailles
Solange d’Ayen
Anna de Noailles

The origins of this illustrious family, however, are far from the art scene of Paris or even the rigid etiquette of Versailles. The Château of Noailles is deep in the countryside of the Limousin province, in the basin of the river Brive (today’s Corrèze Department). This is the western edge of France’s Massif Central, a place of deep gorges, caves and grottos, an area where a number of France’s premier medieval nobility had their origins, as warriors on the frontier between the power of the King of France in Paris and the King of England in Aquitaine (as noted in a previous blog post about the Rochechouarts). The ancientness of the family, with records back to about 1220, can be detected by the simplicity of its coat-of-arms: a basic gold diagonal band on red. The castle of Noailles was built in this turbulent time in the fourteenth century, then given a Renaissance façade on its central block in the sixteenth century. Much of it burned in 1789, but was restored in the nineteenth century. Today it is private, not open to tourists.

the arms of the Dukes of Noailles
The Château de Noailles

Early members of the family got involved in the Church: Hugues de Noailles died on Crusade in 1248 at the side of King Louis IX (Saint Louis); his son and grandson were successive chaplains to the embattled pope in Rome, Boniface VIII, the last to rule there before the papacy moved to Avignon, where another Noailles served as a guard during one of the highly secretive papal conclaves. In the middle of the thirteenth century, the family married the heiress of the adjacent lordship of Noaillac (so they became lords of Noailles and Noaillac, today spelled Noailhac), and a generation later the heiress of two lordships in the Auvergne, the hilly province to the east.

The Noailles family remained a provincial family until the mid-sixteenth century when two sons (out of a total nineteen siblings!) rose to favoured positions at the Valois court. Antoine, Lord of Noailles, made his name fighting in the armies of François I against Emperor Charles V in the Piedmont in the 1540s. He was named an admiral in 1547, and later served as a diplomat in England in the 1550s, Governor of Bordeaux and Lieutenant-General of Aquitaine. His wife entered court service as lady-in-waiting to Catherine de Medici and later was dame d’honneur for Queen Elizabeth of Austria, and accompanied her back to Vienna as a widow when King Charles IX died in 1574. The Noailles women thus had a long history of running the households of French royal women, and greeting and escorting Habsburg brides long before Marie-Antoinette arrived on the scene nearly two centuries later.

Antoine, Seigneur de Noailles

Antoine’s brothers were churchmen: in 1556, François was appointed Bishop of Dax, in the far southwest of France, but was never consecrated since that city was in the hands of Protestants—he himself was suspected of adhering to the Calvinist heresy. Hoping to be promoted to the bishopric of Beauvais (but blocked by Catherine de Medici), he resigned Dax to another brother Gilles, Abbot of l’Isle, in 1562, but the latter was not consecrated either. Considered one of the most capable statesmen of his century, François was ambassador to Venice in the 1560s then to the Ottoman Sultan 1571-75, and was instrumental in building the Franco-Ottoman alliance that so destabilised Spanish power in the Mediterranean for a generation. Gilles too was a diplomat, as ambassador to England, renewing the auld alliance with Scotland in 1561, then replacing his brother in Constantinople in 1575.

Gilles de Noailles, Bishop of Dax, as Ambassador to Constantinople

In 1581, the Bishop of Dax bought the lordship of Ayen from the King of Navarre, and in 1593 this estate was erected into a county for the Noailles family. Ayen was only a short distance to the northwest from Noailles itself; being on the main north-south road between Paris and Toulouse, its strategic location meant its old medieval castle had been occupied for a long time by English troops during the Hundred Years War: stretching from Richard the Lionheart making his base here in the 1190s to a major siege by French troops in 1415, after which the castle was razed. Even without a rebuilt château, the estate at Ayen remained significant and was in fact the core of the Duchy of Noailles created by Louis XIV in 1663. It then gave its name to the separate dukedom created for the heir in 1737.

Antoine de Noailles’ son Henri, 1st Count of Ayen, was born in London while his father was posted there. He became one of the Gentlemen of the Chamber to King Henry III in 1583 and was appointed to the Council of State by Henry IV in 1597. He also served as the King’s Lieutenant-General of the Auvergne, where thirty years earlier he had relentlessly pushed out Protestants on orders of the Crown. His two sons continued this service in the region well into the seventeenth century: François, Count of Ayen, replacing his father as Lieutenant-General of Auvergne, and Charles as Bishop of Saint-Flour (in Auvergne) for nearly forty years. Ayen was also created first French governor of Roussillon, a province newly conquered from Spain in 1643, which the Noailles family would govern for several generations—until the end of the ancien regime.

Henri de Noailles, 1st Count of Ayen
François, Count of Ayen

In the next generation, Anne de Noailles became a protegé of Cardinal Mazarin: a field marshal in 1643 and Premier Captain of the King’s Bodyguard in 1648. In 1660, he was appointed to his father’s old post as Governor of Roussillon, with its capital in Perpignan. Three years later, Louis XIV elevated Anne to the ranks of the dukes and peers of France as 1st Duke of Noailles. He was also Marquis de Montclar in Auvergne and Marquis de Mouchy in Picardy. His wife was appointed one of the chief ladies-in-waiting of the new Spanish queen, Marie-Thérèse—as always, there was a Noailles woman in attendance on the Queen of France. The first Duchess of Noailles was Louise Boyer, heiress of the last Baron of Mouchy and brought that estate into the family, which we’ll look at more carefully below.

Anne, 1st Duke of Noailles
Louise, 1st Duchess of Noailles

As ever with this family, there were several sons, many of whom rose to positions of prominence. Of the younger sons, Jacques and Jean-François made their names in the navy and the army, respectively, while Louis-Antoine and Jean-Baptiste were both senior clergymen. The latter was Bishop of Chalons, which meant he was one of the six ecclesiastical peers, but died in 1720 before he had a chance to exercise this duty at the coronation of Louis XV. Louis-Antoine held the much more important (but newer) peerage of Paris (from 1695), and as Archbishop, and then Cardinal (1699), presided over many important court ceremonies, from royal baptisms to marriages to funerals. He also had a fabulous portrait done!

the Cardinal de Noailles, Archbishop of Paris

But it was the eldest son who is seen as the most significant member of the family in its long history. Anne-Jules became 2nd Duke of Noailles in 1678, and succeeded his father as Captain of one of the companies of the King’s Bodyguard (Gardes du Corps). He was also Louis XIV’s aide-de-camp during the Dutch War of the 1670s, and was promoted higher and higher through the ranks, to field marshal, lieutenant general, and finally Marshal of France in 1693—he’s considered one of France’s principal generals in the Nine Years War (1688-97). He also took over his father’s post as Governor of Roussillon in 1678, then was promoted to much more prestigious (and financially lucrative) post next door as Governor of Languedoc in 1682. From here, he launched his Noailles Regiment across the Pyrenees to aid the Catalan revolt against Habsburg rule, achieving several victories, notably on the River Ter in 1694. He was appointed Viceroy of Catalonia—but becoming ill, and having annoyed the King, he handed over this post to the Duke of Vendôme and returned to court. The Marshal-Duke of Noailles returned to favour when he was honoured in 1700 with the appointment to escort the young Prince Philippe of Anjou, newly named Philip V of Spain, to the frontier. He was busy at home too fathering thirteen children survive childhood; of these, three of the daughters married well, even into the extended network of the royal family itself: Lucie-Félicité married the Marshal-Duke of Estrées, a cousin of the Duke of Vendôme, of the illegitimate branch of the House of Bourbon; Marie-Thérèse married the Duke of La Vallière, the nephew of Louis XIV’s first ‘official’ mistress; while Marie-Victoire married the Marquis de Gondrin, the grandson of Louis’ second mistress, Madame de Montespan, then later Louis XIV’s own son by Montespan, the Count of Toulouse (thus his half-uncle, which raised some eyebrows in ecclesiastical law). The last of these as Countess of Toulouse became a surrogate mother to the young orphan Louis XV and remained a strong maternal figure well into his reign.

Anne-Jules, 2nd Duke of Noailles, Marshal of France
Marie-Victoire de Noailles, Countess of Toulouse, as an older woman

The heir to the dukedom of Noailles, Adrien-Maurice, took over his father’s post of Captain of the King’s Guards well in advance of his father’s death in 1708, as well as the post of Governor of Roussillon—which he governed for 68 years!—and added another government, Berry, in 1698. He too rose through the ranks of the military, notably during the War of the Spanish Succession, and also became a Marshal of France. When Louis XIV died, a regency government was led by the Duke of Orléans, who appointed the 3rd Duke of Noailles as President of the Council of Finance—he was not just a figurehead, and tried actively to reform the finance system in France, now heavily burdened by the debts of Louis XIV’s many wars. He proposed a system of proportional taxes and the suppression of the dîme (the ten percent tax) collected by the Church. But as with many of the reforms of the Regency period, these were rejected by more conservative forces, and the Duke was disgraced and dismissed from the Council in 1718. He did not return to favour and to military command until the War of Polish Succession (1733-35), during which he was promoted to Marshal of France. A few years later the War of Austrian Succession broke out, and Noailles was named Commander-in-Chief of the Army of Germany—though he suffered a terrible defeat by British and Austrian forces at Dettingen in 1743. Earlier that same year, he had been appointed Minister of State by Louis XV, and in 1744 served as Minister for Foreign Affairs, but only for a few months. He resigned from his post on the King’s Council in 1756, and died a decade later, nearly 90 years old.

Adrien-Maurice, 3rd Duke of Noailles, Marshal of France

The 3rd Duke’s other significant contribution was territorial, in marrying—like his sisters—into the extended illegitimate side of the French royal family: Françoise-Charlotte d’Aubigné was the niece and universal heiress of Madame de Maintenon, and received from her in 1718 the Marquisate of Maintenon, about 50 km southwest of Versailles. The Château of Maintenon had been built in the thirteenth century by an eponymous family of feudal lords, transformed into a more fashionable residence by the Angennes family in the sixteenth century, then remodelled again for the secret wife of Louis XIV in the 1680s. It had three round towers and a moat connected to the nearby river Eure; its gardens were given a royal makeover by the King’s gardener, Le Nôtre. Since 1983 it has been gifted to a foundation that looks after French patrimony (Fondation Mansart) and is managed for visitors by the local council.

Françoise-Charlotte d’Aubigné, Duchess of Noailles, holding a portrait of her aunt, Madame de Maintenon
the Chateau of Maintenon today with its baroque gardens

In Paris itself, the 3rd Duke acquired a grand residence on rue Saint-Honoré with gardens that backed onto the gardens of the Tuileries Palace in 1711, built in the 1670s and now renamed the Hôtel de Noailles. Confiscated during the Revolution, it was restored to the family in 1815, but soon sold and demolished to make way for the development of the rue de Rivoli.

The Hôtel de Noailles in Paris

As with previous generations, more than one son of the Marshal-Duke of Noailles made his name at court and in the military. Both Louis and Philippe were promoted to the rank of Marshal of France—on the same day in 1775—and both ranked at court as dukes: Noailles and Poix. Louis, 4th Duke of Noailles, was initially known as the Count of Ayen as heir to his father—but as the latter lived so long and showed no signs of declining, the King created a new duchy of Ayen for Louis in 1737. After his father’s death in 1766, he assumed the senior ducal title of Noailles and passed the junior title of Ayen to his own eldest son. He also succeeded his father as Governor of Roussillon and Captain of the King’s Guard. He was close to Louis XV and served as his aide-de-camp when the King went to war personally in the 1740s; later that decade he joined the small social circle of the King’s new mistress, Madame de Pompadour. In contrast, his sister the Duchess of Villars was part of the Queen’s inner circle, in service as a lady-in-waiting for nearly forty years—she too was there to receive and educate the young Marie-Antoinette when she arrived from Vienna in 1770. In 1789, the 4th Duke of Noailles was named governor of the Château of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, mirroring his brother’s position as governor of the Château of Versailles. He died of old age just before the Terror in August 1793; but his wife, daughter-in-law and granddaughter were all executed in July 1794. Another granddaughter, Adrienne, wife of the famous Marquis de La Fayette, was also imprisoned at this time and narrowly missed the guillotine only to find herself living in prison again by the end of the year, this time in Austria.

Louis, 1st Duke of Ayen, then 4th Duke of Noailles
a Romantic image of Lafayette his wife Adrienne de Noailles and their daughters in prison

Her father, Jean-Louis, 5th Duke of Noailles, also survived the Revolution, having emigrated when things heated up for the nobility in 1792. He had been a lieutenant-general in the army and a member of the Academy of Sciences in the 1770s-80s, and in general had been known for his progressive views, as was his brother, Emmanuel-Marie, Marquis de Noailles (also known as the Marquis de Maintenon), who had had a long diplomatic career in the Old Regime, as ambassador to the Dutch Republic, to Great Britain and then to Austria for nearly a decade—including the early years of the Revolution, a critical period in Franco-Austrian relations. Just as his brother was leaving France, the Marquis was recalled from Vienna and imprisoned during the Terror but was not executed. He later became a supporter of Napoleon’s Empire of the French and was created a Count of the Empire in 1813. Both brothers lived well into the Restoration period, and the 5th Duke was succeeded in 1824 by his great-nephew, Paul.

Paul, 6th Duke of Noailles, was head of the family for fifty years. He was a historian, writing a history of his ancestor, Madame de Maintenon, in four volumes (amongst other works), and weas elected to the French Academy in 1849. He also cultivated progressive business interests and was president of two railroad companies. He left two sons: the elder, Jules-Charles, became 7th Duke of Noailles, while the younger, Emmanuel-Henri, continued the family’s diplomatic tradition, and served as ambassador to the United States, to Italy, to the Ottoman Empire and to Germany from 1896 to 1902. He was also a historian and wrote a large history of Poland.

Paul, 6th Duke of Noailles

The 7th Duke of Noailles spent most of his life as Duke of Ayen (as heir), then was head of the family for only ten years, 1885 to 1895. He had acquired by marriage in 1851 a new country residence for the family, the gorgeous eighteenth-century Château de Champlâtreux in the Val-d’Oise, northwest of Paris. Initially constructed by the Molé family of Paris parlementaires (and financed by money from the immense succession of the famous banker Samuel Bernard), it has remained the main Noailles residence ever since, and is visitable in the summers.

Château de Champlâtreux

His son, Adrien, was 8th Duke until 1953, residing at the Château de Maintenon and participating in early Olympic Games, as an equestrian, as did one of his daughters, in tennis. His son and heir, Jean, Duke of Ayen, was also a sportsman, competing in shooting, then made his name as a leader of the Paris Resistance and died in the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp in April 1945, just days before the end of the war. It was his wife, Solange d’Ayen, that is mentioned at the start of this post. Their son Adrien-Maurice also died during the war, fighting in the Maquis in October 1944.

a memorial photo of Jean, Duke of Ayen, at the Chateau of Maintenon

The title thus passed to the 8th Duke’s nephew, François, who died in 2009—at age 103!—and was succeeded by his son Hélie, the 10th and current Duke of Noailles (b. 1943). He had a career in the 1970s-80s in government and in diplomacy—notably with a stint in the embassy in Washington DC, 1982-86. Further American ties were made when, as a distant link by marriage to the Marquis de La Fayette, he was chosen to be President of the French Sons of the American Revolution. His heir is Emmanuel, Duke of Ayen, born in Washington DC in 1983.

Hélie, 10th Duke of Noailles

We must scoot back to the eighteenth century and to the creation of the second major branch of the House of Noailles. The younger brother of the 4th Duke of Noailles, Philippe, was at first called ‘Comte de Noailles’, but in 1729 he inherited a property from his aunt by marriage that had a curious rank (by French standards) the ‘principality’ of Poix. That same year, though still a minor, he was appointed to the very prestigious post of Governor of the Château of Versailles, with responsibilities ranging from security to staffing to building works. The Prince of Poix took over this role fully as an adult from 1740; then in 1746 accompanied his father on an embassy to Spain and was honoured with the rank of Grandee of Spain and the title ‘Duque de Mouchy’ in 1747. This was certainly a nod from the Spanish king for all the work done by the Noailles family in Franco-Spanish relations in the past century, and now in helping to secure the Bourbon dynasty on its still relatively new throne in Madrid. But this ducal title did not give Philippe de Noailles a peerage, with a seat in the Parlement of Paris, nor did the principality of Poix (see below); so in 1767, Louis XV created a new duchy-peerage called Poix, and confirmed the earlier title of ‘Prince of Poix’, though still with only vague legal ramifications. Late in life, the 1st Duke of Mouchy and Duke of Poix was appointed Governor of Guyenne (1775), as well as Marshal of France, and resigned the post of Governor of Versailles to his son and heir, who became known as the ‘Prince of Poix’ (1778).

Philippe de Noailles, 1st Duke of Mouchy, Prince & Duke of Poix, Marshal of France

The castle and village of Poix in the southwest corner of Picardy (near the border with Normandy) was the centre of a lordship as early as the eleventh century. Like some other powerful lordships in border zones, its lords started to use the title ‘prince’ (in this case as early as 1153), a title suggesting they had no other superior lord in the feudal hierarchy; this was even confirmed by Louis XII in 1504. For nearly four hundred years, Poix was held by the Tyrel family, who had an interesting role in the trans-national Anglo-Norman story: an early Tyrel lord accompanied William of Normandy in the Conquest of England and was rewarded with lands, especially in Essex; Gautier II (aka Walter Tirel or Tyrrell) was a companion of William II of England and was accused of complacency in the ‘accidental’ murder of the King while out hunting in the New Forest in 1100. Walter fled to France and denied any guilt, and ultimately the family returned to royal favour, with Walter’s grandson Hugh Tyrel taking part in Henry II’s invasion of Ireland in the 1170s. When the Tyrels died out in 1417, the Principality of Poix passed via various people until it was held by the Créquy family who elevated the property into a duchy (with the name ‘Créquy’) in 1652. It then passed by descent and purchase to Philippe de Noailles, who became, as we’ve seen, ‘Prince of Poix’. The ancient castle by now was a ruin, and today survives as a farm with buildings rented out for wedding receptions.

William Tirel riding away from the death of King William Rufus of England, a lithograph from 1895

Meanwhile, Philippe de Noailles’ other title took its name from the lordship of Mouchy-le-Châtel, also northwest of Paris in Picardy. It too was a very early barony, from about 1100, held by a local family, Trie, for many centuries. In the 1630s it passed to the family of Louise Boyer, who, as above, married into the Noailles family in 1645. The ancient château from the twelfth century crumbled over the centuries, but was restored in the nineteenth century as part of the great neo-gothic revival—and inspired the same architects when they were designing Waddesdon Manor in Buckinghamshire, England. Severely damaged in the Second World War, the remains of the once very grand Château de Mouchy were demolished in 1961, leaving only a round tower and terrace, along with family tombs. A short distance to the west, one of the villages that was part of the estate, Longvillers, that was situated on the important road from Paris to Calais was renamed ‘Noailles’ by the Duke of Mouchy in about 1750. He opened a new market here, and over the next century the his descendants developed the town as a place of industry. In Paris, the Duke established his residence on the rue de l’Université, in the faubourg Saint-Germain—this Hôtel de Noailles-Mouchy, with a very large garden, was later confiscated and incorporated into the buildings of the Ministry of War.

The Chateau of Mouchy in the 1930s

The 1st Duke of Mouchy had two sons. The younger, Louis-Marie, Vicomte de Noailles, married the daughter of the Duke of Noailles, then joined his brother-in-law the Marquis de La Fayette as a military volunteer in the American Revolution. Back in France, he retained some of this revolutionary fervour and was an avid member of the Constituent Assembly of 1790-91 (the body working to write a new constitution for France), even serving as its president in February 1791. But as the Revolution radicalised and targeted aristocrats—whether they were supporters or not—he emigrated in 1792. His wife did not and she was executed in the Terror in 1794. The Vicomte later returned to France and joined the navy, and was killed in battle versus the British near Cuba in 1804.

The Vicomte de Noailles as hero of the War of American Independence, by Gilbert Stuart (1798)

His older brother Philippe-Louis, Prince of Poix, took over their father’s roles: as Captain of the King’s Bodyguard from 1775 and Governor of Versailles from 1778. In his capacity as Captain of the Hunt of Versailles, in 1787, Poix built a hunting lodge adjacent to the Great Park, “La Lanterne”—probably named for the great light on top of the King’s menagerie nearby. In the nineteenth century, the pavilion was used by officers of the royal horse farm and stables; after the Second World War, it was the residence of the American Ambassador then the President of the National Assembly, before it became the official country residence for the Prime Minister of France, and since 2007, the President of the Republic.

the Pavillion ‘La Lanterne’ near Versailles in 1926

The Prince of Poix supported the reforms demanded in the summer of 1789, but became disillusioned sooner than his brother and emigrated in 1790. His father and mother, the 1st Duke and Duchess of Mouchy, were both guillotined in the summer of 1794, alongside several other members of the family, as noted above. The new 2nd Duke of Mouchy returned to France in 1800, but was not returned to prominent posts until the restoration of the Bourbons in 1814: once more Captain of the Gardes du Corps and Governor of the Château of Versailles. He was formally created Duke of Mouchy in the peerage of France in 1817 (so, no longer relying on the Spanish creation), and died in 1819.

Philippe-Louis, Prince of Poix, then 2nd Duke of Mouchy

Charles, 3rd Duke of Mouchy, died relatively young in 1834, and was succeeded by his brother, Just, who had already had a prominent career as a supporter of the Napoleonic Empire: he married one of Tallyrand’s nieces in 1803 which connected him to the inner circle at court; was appointed Napoleon’s chamberlain in 1806 and a Count of the Empire in 1810. At the Restoration he was appointed Ambassador to Russia (1814-19), France’s key ally at this time. He lived only for a decade as 4th Duke of Mouchy and died in 1846.

Charles, 3rd Duke of Mouchy
Just, 4th Duke of Mouchy

Their cousin, Alexis, Count of Noailles, was more active in politics—the orphaned son of the executed Anne de Noailles and the war-hero Louis-Marie de Noailles (above), he grew up hating the Revolution and all it stood for. He joined the court in exile of Louis XVIII in 1810, the served as aide-de-camp to the King of Sweden (former Marshal Bernadotte) against the armies of Napoleon in 1813, and was appointed aide-de-camp of the King’s brother, the Count of Artois, in 1814. Artois was the leader of the very conservative royalist faction at court (the ‘Ultras’) and Count Alexis became one of his mouthpieces in the National Assembly as a deputy and a member of a very conservative group, the ‘Chevaliers de la Foi’ (the knights of the faith). He continued to support Artois when he succeeded as king (Charles X) in 1824, but lost influence in government (and his seat) after the conservative king was deposed in the July Revolution of 1830.

Alexis, Count of Noailles

There’s not much to report about the 5th Duke of Mouchy (Charles-Philippe) who died in 1854, nor his son the 6th Duke (Antoine), who died in 1909. The latter was a Bonapartist politician, even after the fall of the Second Empire and into the Third Republic (and he married a Murat, so was distantly related to the Imperial family). His son and heir, François, Prince of Poix, died nine years before his father, but also made an interesting marriage, to Madeleine Dubois de Courval, heiress of a grand château of Pinon in Aisne (eastern Picardy). Badly damaged in the Great War, it was rebuilt in a very modern style, which brings us to the twentieth century.

Antoine, 6th Duke of Mouchy, as a young man
the Chateau of Pinon before 1914

The twentieth-century Mouchy branch was led by the 7th Duke (Henri), until 1947, then his son the 8th Duke (Philippe, d. 2011), and now the 9th Duke (Antoine), born in 1950. His son Charles, Prince of Poix, was born in 1984. The 9th Duke’s brother Alexis, Vicomte de Noailles, linked the family more closely to the former royal family itself through his marriage in 2004 to Princess Diane d’Orléans, daughter of the Duke of Orléans. Moving back one generation, the 8th Duke of Mouchy married Joan Dillon, daughter of the American ambassador to France (and later Secretary of the Treasury), widow of Prince Charles of Luxembourg (also a Bourbon through his father), and became one of the managers of her family business, Haut-Brion, near Bordeaux, one of the premier wineries in France.

Philippe, 8th Duke of Mouchy, and Joan Dillon
the Chateau of Haut-Brion, near Bordeaux

Back another generation, we return to the brother of the 7th Duke, Charles, Vicomte de Noailles, and his wife, Marie-Laure. The daughter of the Bischoffsheims, Jewish bankers from Belgium, the new vicomtesse’s religion already would have scandalised some in French high society. But the couple’s eccentric lifestyle for years cultivated an amazing roster of artists, from Cocteau to Picasso to Man Ray, who gathered at their Villa Noailles at Hyères on the French Riviera. Built in 1923-25 in the ‘moderne’ or functionalist style, it also had a ‘cubist’ garden. Marie-Laure in particular had intimate relations with some of her protegés, described by some as ‘platonic affairs’ with mostly homosexual men. She died in 1970, and her husband eleven years later.

Charles, Vicomte de Noailles
Marie-Laure, painted by Balthus
the Villa Noailles in Hyères on the French Riviera

From Picardy to Provence and from Limousin to Versailles, the Noailles family has certainly left its mark on the history of France!

Compton—Not quite dukes, but marquesses of Northampton

There’s a fairly common surname in England and America, Compton, and if you want to think it might once upon a time have been connected to the old Anglo-Norman aristocracy, as derived from an old French word connected to accounting (comptant), that’s not a bad deduction; but it just as easily could be derived, like so many English names, from the more mundane world of agriculture: the old English cum tun a farm or settlement in a narrow valley (or coombe). Unsurprisingly, there are lots of small villages in England with this name, especially in the south and west.

village sign for Compton in Surrey

Of those Comptons associated with noble titles, the most prominent are the Comptons of Warwickshire, who rose very fast due to great royal favour in the Tudor era and ultimately became earls, then marquises of Northampton, and remain so today—with two very grand family seats: Compton Wynyates in Warwickshire, and Ashby Castle in Northamptonshire. This post will mostly be about them, even though they did not reach the very top of the peerage, the dukedom.

Other noble seats with the same name include the very famous Compton Verney (also in Warwickshire), the seat of the Verney family—today home to a wonderful art gallery. Compton Beauchamp House is a baroque mansion in southwest Oxfordshire. There’s a medieval Compton Castle in South Devon, home to a Compton family in the Middle Ages, but more known as the long-term seat of the Gilbert family. Compton Pauncefoot Castle in Somerset was built for the Hunt family in 1820s, and later became the seat of a baronetcy, Mason of Compton Pauncefoot (1918), whose family were later raised to the title Baron Blackford (1935), before going extinct in 1988. There was also a different Compton baronetcy, of Hartpury (Gloucestershire), granted in 1686. Though they went extinct in 1773, they may have left some distant cousins too poor or too distant to claim the title, as this family was known to have perennial financial difficulties, in part stemming from their status in the seventeenth century (at least) as recusant Catholics.

Compton Castle, Devon

This leads me to pure speculation, and one of the reasons for justifying this post connecting the noble Comptons of Northampton to my own family (my mother’s surname). In the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, a large number of junior members of the gentry or lower nobility of England emigrated to the colonies to escape financial or religious difficulties. Unlike France or Germany where noble status was always transmittable to male descendants—no matter how far away from the main line you got—in England only the head of a family was noble, so younger sons could sit in the House of Commons, could enter trade without social or legal impunity, and could easily ‘fall out’ of the upper social orders and become yeoman farmers, or worse, could speculate on investments and lose everything. Many Americans who research their family trees are able to trace their ancestry back to the English aristocracy through this route, though records are often patchy, and some records that do exist should be considered dubious. So my fantasy—I should reiterate, based on no evidence at all—is that it could be possible that one of these poor younger sons, deprived of an inheritance by the system of entail so prevalent in England in this period, and maybe fleeing persecution as a Catholic, managed to travel to America and establish a life there. He wouldn’t be the only one of my ancestors to flee religious persecution to the New World—see my previous blog post about anabaptists from Germany.

What I do know is that a certain Ezekiel Compton (or Cumpton) was born in the colony of New Jersey in 1773, perhaps in Hunterdon County in the Delaware Valley, and moved in about 1800 to the newly established Berkeley County, Virginia. The county was named for a popular governor Norborne Berkeley (who had died in 1770), who came from Gloucestershire in England, so maybe had some connections to English settlers whose families also came from there like the Comptons of Hartpury? The other interesting coincidence is that General Daniel Morgan also came to this area of Virginia (though many years before) from Hunterdon County, New Jersey. Morgan’s grandparents had emigrated from Wales (which borders Gloucestershire), and he settled in Frederick County, Virginia, which was then divided to create Berkeley County in 1772, and then divided again in 1820 to create a new county, which was named for Morgan himself, as a hero of the American Revolution. What is now Morgan County had long been popular with Native Americans for its warm springs bubbling out of the Potomac Highlands, which drew its first settlers, Germans from the Delaware Valley, in about the 1730. The town that grew up around the main springs was called Bath, after the city in England (in Gloucestershire, coincidence?)—but was renamed Berkeley Springs by about 1802.

A view of Berkeley Springs State Park today

I too lived in Gloucestershire for a bit in the early part of this century, but I can’t say I felt any deep ancestral tingles there.

Ezekiel Compton died in 1860, and three years later, Morgan County became part of the new state of West Virginia. His son John, born in Berkeley County, died only five years later. John’s son William was known as ‘Doc’—for what reason I do not know—and married a local girl, Martina Casler, whose family takes my lineage back yet again to the Palatinate in Germany. Her ancestor Michael Casler (or Kessler, the surname for a coppersmith) emigrated to north-western Virginia in the 1760s and bought land from Lord Fairfax on Sir Johns Run, near Berkeley Springs, land that eventually became Morgan County. They had five sons, some with intriguing names (Hamil, Leonidus and Newton), and around the turn of the twentieth century, several of these migrated to Washington DC at time when jobs were plentiful as the national capital was finally starting to develop into a real city. Leonidus, who went by his middle name, Smith, married another local girl from back in Berkeley Springs, Virginia Alderton, whose first cousin had married her husband’s sister (and they too moved to Washington). The Aldertons had also settled in the area that’s now Morgan County as early as 1750. One of the more interesting stories to appear when I was looking into this family history is that of Virginia’s uncle, Reverend Thomas Alderton, a Methodist preacher in Great Cacapon, West Virginia, who died in the pulpit, at nearly 7 feet tall and over 300 pounds (says his obituary in The Washington Post from 1906)! Smith and Virginia in turn had a large family of four girls and two boys—one of these, Ralph, was my grandad. Ralph Compton worked for the US government in the boom years of the 1930s-40s and earned enough to send his two sons and one daughter—my mother—to college. His career was in accounting and several of my cousins are today in related fields with very mathematical brains, so I’ve often joked that maybe there was a ‘comptant’ gene in the family after all (and not a ‘farm in a narrow valley’ gene!).

L. Smith Compton and Virginia Alderton, my great-grandparents

So do I think my Comptons are related to those in Warwickshire or Gloucestershire? Not really. But it could be fun. Maybe one of the earls of the later seventeenth century had an illegitimate son who, shunned by society in London, sought his fortune in the colonies?

Heading for more solid historical ground, we can look at the story of the Compton marquesses of Northampton as a good example of how to shimmy up the pole of the English aristocracy pretty quick if you enjoy royal favour. And the first who really rose to great prominence was indeed great mates with one of the most notorious promoters of new men: Henry VIII. Sir William Compton descended from local gentry with deep roots in rural Warwickshire stretching back to about 1200, and was appointed as a boy to be a page in the household of the Duke of York. When the Duke became King Henry VIII in 1509, he appointed his childhood friend to the extremely important position of Groom of the Stool—the person most trusted to attend the monarch in his most private moments (and I don’t mean sex). Compton became one of the central figures of the Tudor court, and features heavily in the TV dramatization, played by Kris Holden-Ried (maybe not as memorable as Henry Cavill, but a big presence, nonetheless). He accompanied the King on his Flanders campaign of 1513 and was knighted. Over the years he was richly rewarded with lands all over England and offices including the wardenship of Windsor Great Park, Chief Gentleman of the Bedchamber, and even a short stint as Chancellor of Ireland (1513-16). He married an heiress, Werburge Brereton, who was heiress of both her father’s lands in Sussex, and lands from her mother, Katherine Berkeley, in Gloucestershire.

Sir William Compton and his family

In 1515, Henry VIII gave William Compton the ruined Fulbroke Castle in Warwickshire, southwest of the town of Warwick, which he used as a sort of Ikea for castles, bringing back various ornamental bits to his family’s ancestral seat, further to the south in the same county, Compton Wynyates. This had been a Compton property since about 1200, rebuilt by William’s father in more fashionable brick, with four wings around a quadrangle. William now added a great porch, a chapel, and those twisty chimneys so associated with Tudor style. Compton Wynyates hosted numerous royal visits in the next two centuries—Henry VIII, Elizabeth, James I, Charles I—but it suffered during the English Civil War and the family mostly moved to another property, Ashby Castle, which they modernised and developed, meaning that Compton Wynyates is one of the most well-preserved Tudor houses in England. It was restored by the family in the nineteenth century, to be used as the home for the heir, but it always remained the second home, until the 1980s when Ashby Castle was opened for tourism, and Compton Wynyates became the principal, and still very private, family home.

Compton Wynyates, Warwickshire

But the King’s great pal William Compton died of the sweating sickness before he reached fifty. His baby son Peter was put into wardship, first under Cardinal Wolsey, then under the Earl of Shrewsbury, who married him off to his own daughter, Lady Anne Talbot. This meant the Comptons were not only connected to the Talbots, one of England’s premier families, but also, via the bride’s grandmother, Lady Katherine Stafford, to the Plantagenets and the royal family itself. But Peter died very young in 1544, leaving just one son, Henry.

Henry Compton, like his father, married extremely well. In the reign of Elizabeth, his first wife was Lady Frances Hastings, whose father was the Earl of Huntingdon, but whose mother was Katherine Pole, granddaughter of the Countess of Salisbury (niece of Richard III), meaning again that the Comptons were getting a healthy dollop of Plantagenet blood. He became an MP for Old Sarum in Wiltshire. In 1572, royal favour allowed him to move out of the House of Commons and into the House of Lords as Baron Compton of Compton Wynyates. He married a second time in about 1575, Anne Spencer, who, unlike his first wife, was from a relatively new family like his own, raised up to great prominence by favour with the Tudors, and owning significant agricultural lands in the county next door to Warwickshire, Northamptonshire.

the very distinctive Compton arms, with three helms and a golden lion

Here Henry, Baron Compton, acquired a new family seat: Castle Ashby, a few miles southeast of the city of Northampton. The original manor house, built by the bishop of Coventry, dated back to the early fourteenth century. Lord Compton acquired it in the 1570s, and rebuilt it as an ‘Elizabethan prodigy house’, a princely mansion with space to house over eighty servants, surrounded by an estate that covered several villages. The house was given a grand palladian front enclosing the courtyard in the 1770s. It is still quite grand today, but the house is not open to the public (just the gardens).

Castle Ashby, Northamptonshire

Henry Compton died in 1589 leaving three sons. The youngest, Henry, established a secondary branch of the family in the old Brereton estates in Sussex. The second son, Sir Thomas, made an interesting marriage in 1609 as the third husband of Mary Beaumont, the widow of Sir George Villiers and mother of the soon-to-be great favourite of King James, George, Duke of Buckingham—again, as seen recently in a television drama (Mary & George, in which old Sir Thomas does not really come over too well). [see previous blog post on the Villiers family]. Meanwhile, the eldest son, William, made a much better marriage—in terms of finance if not status—but apparently had to fight to get it.  Elizabeth Spencer—not related, I think, to the Spencers of Northamptonshire—was the only child of Sir John Spencer, Lord Mayor of London and one of the richest men in Elizabethan England. He opposed the marriage of his daughter to the 2nd Baron Compton, who had, it so happened, borrowed a huge amount of money from Spencer so considered getting a dowry and her inheritance would be a great way to cancel this debt. As the story goes, in about 1599, Compton used his influence at court to arrange for old Sir John to be arrested on charges of mistreating his daughter, then abducted Elizabeth—it was said by lowering her in a baker’s basket from her window in Canonbury Tower. Sir John disowned his daughter, but gradually was reconciled once she had a child and his heart softened.

Canonbury Tower in Islington, London

Canonbury House, in Islington, north London, became the new jewel in the Compton real estate crown. It had been a priory, part of the huge monastic complex of St Bartholomew’s, named after its canons (though sometimes called ‘Canbury’). When monastic lands were confiscated in the 1540s, the estate was given to the Dudleys, then passed to others before it was acquired by Spencer in 1570 (and he rebuilt the house on a grander scale in the 1590s). William and Elizabeth didn’t move in here, however—he was too much in favour at court so needed to be closer to King James—but leased it out, notably to Sir Francis Bacon. The family did start to live here after the 1650s. In the eighteenth century the mansion was redeveloped into several smaller houses (again leased out, some to very famous lodgers). One of these became known as Northampton House by the 1850s. Other areas became sportsgrounds. The Tower of Canonbury remained, however, and is still the only major Tudor era building in Islington, restored by the 5th Marquess of Northampton in about 1910. It still has a ‘Spencer Room’ and a ‘Compton Room’. The London estate is owned by the family trust and includes a pub called the Compton Arms.

As William Compton rose in favour with King James, he was rewarded: in 1617 he was given the very prestigious and powerful post of Lord President of the Marches and Dominion of Wales (with jurisdiction over all of Wales, plus the bordering counties), and a year later elevated in title to Earl of Northampton. Though one of the family seats was in this midlands county, it is thought that this title was selected due to William’s descent from the earls of Huntingdon, who had at one point also been earls of Northampton, way back in the eleventh and twelfth centuries. Northampton was in fact one of the most ancient earldoms in all of England, a fact that would come into play again later.

William Compton, 1st Earl of Northampton

The first Earl of Northampton died in 1630, leaving just one son, with the very distinctive first name ‘Spencer’. This name will recur a lot in the next three centuries of family history, and although it derives from Sir John Spencer in London, it probably also gave a bit of caché to the family in Northamptonshire as the other major county family, the Spencers of Althorp, rose higher and higher in the social hierarchy. The 2nd Earl became another royal favourite—this time as Master of the Robes to Charles, Prince of Wales, 1621, and accompanying him on his famous trip to Spain in 1623 to try (and fail) to woo a Spanish infanta. Later in life, the 2nd Earl became a prominent Royalist commander in the Civil War and was killed at the Battle of Hopton Heath in Shropshire. He had married Mary Beaumont, the niece of the earlier Mary Beaumont, and thus first cousin to the Duke of Buckingham.

The 2nd Earl had six sons, several of whom were prominent Royalist commanders in the war. The eldest, James, became the 3rd Earl of Northampton and managed to lie low during the Commonwealth so his lands were not confiscated. At the Restoration of 1660, he was restored to his family’s now fairly hereditary position of Lord Lieutenant of Warwickshire, and later was given the post of Constable of the Tower of London, and member of the Privy Council. But he was never a major political figure and was sidelined in 1679 when tension rose between those who supported and those who feared the succession of the King’s Catholic brother, James, Duke of York.

the 3rd Earl of Northampton as a young man

Indeed the 3rd Earl’s youngest brother, Henry, became one of the chief opponents of the Duke of York once he became King James II. Henry Compton joined the church as a young man and was appointed Bishop of Oxford in 1674, then transferred to London in 1675. He was also given the post of Dean of the Chapel Royal and a seat on the Privy Council, as well as the task of overseeing the education of the royal princesses Mary and Anne, daughters of the Duke of York. As the reign of Charles II waned in the 1680s, the Bishop of London worked to bring dissenters back into the Church of England, but only low church Protestants or Presbyterians, not Catholics—so when James II became King in 1685, his anti-Catholic stance became a liability, and he was dismissed from the Privy Council and the Deanship. He therefore joined the opposition in the House of Lords and became one of the ‘Immortal Seven’ who wrote a letter to William, Prince of Orange, in June 1688, inviting him to invade England in order to remove the perceived threat of an absolutist and pro-Catholic regime. The Bishop of London then performed the coronation of William and Mary in April 1689, since the Archbishop of Canterbury would not do it. Henry Compton is one of my favourite Comptons as he became the first Chancellor of the College of William & Mary in Virginia—my alma mater—which he helped found in 1693. Although he remained a central figure in the reigns of William and Mary and of Queen Anne, and involved, for example, in the commission that drew up the official acts of union between England and Scotland in 1707, he was passed over twice for promotion to the top job, archbishop of Canterbury, which irked him.

Henry Compton, Bishop of London

This brings us into the eighteenth century and the next great Compton politician, Spencer Compton, younger brother of the 4th Earl of Northampton. The 4th Earl, George, was Lord Lieutenant of Warwickshire and Constable of the Tower, but led a fairly quiet life. His brother Spencer, in contrast, became a Member of Parliament in 1698 and a close ally of Walpole—a Whig, which went against the Compton family’s traditional Tory stance. Rising with Walpole, Compton was named Speaker of the Commons, 1715, a Privy Councillor in 1716, and Treasurer of the Household of the Prince of Wales. When Walpole became essentially Britain’s first Prime Minister, Compton was appointed Lord Privy Seal, and in 1728 moved to the House of Lords as Baron Wilmington, of Wilmington (Sussex). By this point, political winds changed, and he became one of Walpole’s chief opponents—but he continued to rise in royal favour: created Earl of Wilmington and Viscount Pevensey (also in Sussex) in 1730, and Lord President of the Council. Finally he succeeded Walpole as Prime Minister and First Lord of the Treasury in 1742. He only held these posts for a year before he died. Unmarried and childless, his titles became extinct. His name lives on however in the city of Wilmington in Delaware.

Spencer Compton, Earl of Wilmington

In the 1720s, Spencer Compton purchased the Jacobean mansion of Borne Place on the seaside in Eastbourne, Sussex and rebuilt it along baroque lines. Renamed Compton Place, it became his chief country retreat from London politics. Later it passed back to the main line of Compton earls, then in the 1750s by marriage into the Cavendish family: the dukes of Devonshire still own it today.

Compton Place, Sussex

The next four earls of Northampton were fairly unremarkable. James, the 5th Earl, had married an heiress, Elizabeth Shirley, who succeeded in her own right as Baroness Ferrers of Chartley. They had only a daughter, Charlotte, who thus took the barony of Compton and that of Ferrers by marriage into the Townshend family (later elevated to the rank of marquess). The earldom passed to the next brother, George, who died only four years later (1758) and passed the earldom to his nephew, Charles. The 7th Earl married a society beauty, Lady Anne Somerset, daughter of the Duke of Beaufort, and they were both set to take up a romantic post in the British embassy in Venice when he suddenly died in October 1763, only 26 years old—predeceased by his equally young wife a few months earlier in Naples. Again there was only a daughter (later married to Lord Burlington), so the earldom moved sideways once more, to Spencer, 8th Earl of Northampton.

the 7th Earl of Northampton

The 8th Earl was a Groom of the Bedchamber to George III in the early years of his reign, but became a rather extravagant spender, so that by the mid-1770s he was forced to live abroad, in Switzerland where it was much cheaper. It was also probably to avoid the scandal of having taken as a second wife, Anne Hougham, the daughter of a London linen-draper. He died in 1796, leaving his son Charles mostly a lot of debt.

Charles, 9th Earl of Northampton, had one thing in his favour, however: his aunt Catherine had married John Perceval, Earl of Egmont, and their son Spencer Perceval was a rising star in government and Prime Minister from 1809. Compton asked his cousin to raise his peerage title up a grade to marquess, with the argument that it was one of the ‘ancient earldoms’ of England (which it was) so should stand out more against the ever-increasing number of earldoms that had been created in the later eighteenth century. Spencer Perceval agreed, but was assassinated in May 1812, leaving the actual creation to his successor, Lord Liverpool. The first Marquess of Northampton’s subsidiary titles were Earl Compton (used by the heir) and Baron Wilmington.

Charles Compton, 1st Marquess of Northampton

Spencer, 2nd Marquess of Northampton, inherited this new title in 1828. He had lived in Italy since 1820, and championed liberal movements in Lombardy and Naples (sort of like Lord Byron fighting for independence of Greece at the same time). He returned to England in 1830 and became a vocal reformer in the House of Lords. He was also a keen scientist and headed up several societies, in particular for geology—he was interested in the earliest discoveries of dinosaur fossils and even had a type of stegosaurus named for him. He was President of the Royal Society, 1838-48, and died shortly after.

the 2nd Marquess of Northampton

The 3rd and 4th marquesses were brothers. They also had a younger brother, Lord Alwyne, who became Lord High Almoner to Queen Victoria in 1882, and Bishop of Ely in 1886. The 3rd Marquess, Charles, was known mostly for his work restoring Compton Wynyates in the 1860s. William, 4th Marquess, had a long naval carer, with service in the Far East, until he succeeded to his brother’s titles in 1877. In 1894, he donated lands in Clerkenwell, another estate in London (south of Canonbury and Islington), to create the Northampton Institute, which eventually evolved into the City University of London. He died in 1897.

Northampton Institute, Clerkenwell, London

As a sizeable landowner in north London—the district of Clerkenwell still bears the street names of Northampton, Spencer and Compton—William, 5th Marquess of Northampton, took an active part in the organisation of the new London County Council in the 1890s. He had been a diplomat in the 1870s, and resumed this function in a more honorary way in 1910 as special envoy to the courts of Europe to announce the accession of George V. He died three years later, having added to the family’s fortunes by marrying one of the heiresses of Barings Bank.

the 5th Marquess of Northampton

In contrast to this marriage, a year before his father’s death, William, Earl Compton, had become engaged to an actress who gave birth to twins—but once he acceded to the marquisate, he backed out. She sued for breach of promise and was awarded £50,000. The 6th Marquess then went on to marry three times and divorce twice. This is not, I hasten to add, unusual for the British aristocracy of the 20th century (in fact his son, married six times!). The 6th Marquess served in the First World War as a major in the Royal Horse Guards, then spent much of his career in local affairs, as lieutenant-colonel of the Warwickshire yeomanry in the 1920s, and as chairman of the Northamptonshire County Council in the early 1950s. He died in 1978 at the ripe old age of 93. His son Spencer (‘Spenny’) is the 7th and current Marquess of Northampton. He is one of the richest men in the UK, with estates valued at about £120 million. So although not a duke or prince, he certainly lives like one. He is known for having an astute eye in the buying and selling of treasures, from Renaissance art to ancient buried Roman silver. The succession is secure in his son Daniel, Earl Compton (b. 1973), and grandson Henry, Lord Wilmington (b. 2018).

Spencer Compton, the 7th Marquess of Northampton, at Compton Wynyates

Before concluding, we can look at the current Marquess’s cousins, who, though having no title at all, also live like dukes and princes. The youngest brother of the 5th Marquess, Lord Alwyne Compton, was a Unionist politician (opposed to the separation of Ireland from the United Kingdom). In 1886 he married Mary de Grey Vyner, heiress of Newby Hall, Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal, all in Yorkshire. Their two sons divided these properties, with the younger taking the surname Vyner and starting a new subbranch (and marrying very well, the daughter of the Duke of Lennox). The ruined abbey at Fountains and its Elizabethan house are now part of the National Trust, while the Wren-inspired Newby Hall remains a Compton family seat.

Newby Hall, Yorkshire

Newby Hall passed to a younger son, as the elder son, Edward, took the family in another direction entirely by marrying Silvia Farquharson, daughter and eventual heir of the 14th Laird of Invercauld, the Chief of Clan Farquharson. The lands of the Farquharsons (pronounced like Ferguson) are in Deeside, in the County of Aberdeen. In 1949, Alwyne Compton, now Farquharson, was recognised by the Lord Lyon as head of the Clan. He was a lifelong friend of Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, and his lordly estate in Invercauld is quite close to the royal family’s estates at Balmoral. The 16th Laird of Invercauld died in 2021—at 102!—and passed the estates and titles to his great-nephew, Philip Farquharson (b. 1980). Philip’s cousins picked up another part of their Scottish inheritance and changed their surname to Maclean, and took up residence at Torloisk on Mull.

Alwyne Farquharson, Clan Chief, 16th Laird of Invercauld
Invercauld Castle, Deeside

Another set of cousins brought the family even close into the orbit of today’s British royal family. Alwyne Farquharson’s twin sister, Mary Compton, married a millionaire horse-breeder from Suffolk, Bernard van Cutsem. The family hailed from a long line of minor nobles from Belgium and had migrated to England in the nineteenth century. Their children’s links to the royal family are legion: the second son Geoffrey was related to Lady Diana Spencer through marriage (via her sister Sarah McCorquodale); while the first son Hugh became great pals of the then Prince of Wales in the 1960s, so the two families continued to be linked through wedding and godparentage for the next two generations. Hugh’s son Edward is King Charles’ godson and was a page at the wedding in 1981 (and is now married to a Grosvenor, daughter of the Duke of Westminster). Second son Hugh married an Astor—their daughter Grace (Prince William’s goddaughter) captured the world’s attention as the angry three-year-old on the balcony of Buckingham Palace during William and Catherine’s wedding kiss in 2011. Third son Nicholas’s daughter is in turn Prince Harry’s goddaughter, and was also a bridesmaid in his wedding in 2018. Nicholas and the fourth brother, William, are godfathers to Princes George and Louis. Most recently, Grace’s little brother, Charles van Cutsem, was appointed a page of honour to the King in November 2023. Not bad for a family that remain faithfully Catholic.

Grace van Cutsem

Royal favour can thus help to solidify a family’s status within elite society in Britain, just as it did for the Comptons of Warwickshire in the Tudor era. Perhaps the Comptons of Berkeley Springs in Morgan County, West Virginia, enjoyed their own degree of notoriety in their corner of the world.

Dukes of Brunswick II: Lüneburg, Hanover, and the Queen-Consort who never was

An interesting illustrated poster was published in about 1715 for distribution to the people of Great Britain that celebrated the health and vitality of their new royal family: the Hanoverians. At the top is the prosperous looking King George I, a former war hero in Europe and a symbol of the ongoing stability of the Protestant faith in England. Below him are the figures of his son and daughter-in-law, the Prince and Princess of Wales, and their already growing nursery of royal children, Prince Frederick and his sisters, Anne, Amelia and Caroline. A prosperous eighteenth century beckoned for the British people. It was a very ‘family values’ type item of propaganda. But there’s a curious omission: the King has no wife, alive or dead. It’s as if he generated his dynasty completely on his own.

celebrating the Hanoverian Succession. A version from 1748 that adds the children of Frederick, Prince of Wales, but still with George I alone at the top of this ‘dynastic column’ (© The Trustees of the British Museum)

Sophia Dorothea of Brunswick-Lüneburg was, at least in theory, the queen-consort of Great Britain in 1715. Yet she never left Germany, and lived in confinement for the entirety of her husband’s reign. Her story is fascinating, and not well known, but before we tell it, we need to look at the dynasty of dukes and princes she represents. It is in fact the same dynasty as her husband’s and they were first cousins. The House of Brunswick-Lüneburg is just another name for the House of Hanover. It is one of the oldest princely houses in all of Europe, with roots stretching back to the ninth century. Known initially as the House of Welf (or Guelph in English), its early history has already been traced in a previous blog post, in the context of another British queen-consort, Caroline of Brunswick. Queen Caroline’s branch was based in Wolfenbüttel, while Sophia Dorothea’s family were based further north in Lüneburg. These two halves of the overall Duchy of Brunswick-Lüneburg, created in 1235, had been divided, subdivided, re-combined and re-divided several times in the centuries that followed. This post will focus on the line of Lüneburg that was founded from a division of 1428, and then another division in 1634. After 1692, though Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel was the senior line, its dukes were eclipsed by the rise of the Hanoverians, first as electors of Hanover, then (from 1714) as kings of Great Britain and Ireland. The senior line became extinct in 1884 and in theory at least the two branches were united once more in the person of Queen Victoria’s cousin, the Duke of Cumberland, as we’ll see at the end of this post.

One of my favourite paintings of the Hanoverians: Sophia Dorothea with her two children, Georg August and Sophia Dorothea, by Jacques Vaillant, c1690–in an interesting inversion of the above description, there’s no father here!

As seen in the previous blog, the main seat of the medieval House of Welf was in Brunswick (Braunschweig in German), but had a second seat much further north, on the great North German plain, Lüneburg, a city wealthy in trade links and salt deposits. The first major division was made in 1269, with the senior line in Lüneburg and junior lines being established in Wolfenbüttel, Grubenhagen, Göttingen and Calenberg. Officially, the imperial fief of Brunswick-Lüneburg remained undivided, so all princes from all branches had the potentiality to succeed, and individually the smaller units were referred to as ‘principalities’ within the duchy. The first line of Lüneburg came to a violent end in 1370, and following a devastating War of Lüneburg Succession, this branch of the dynasty moved its headquarters further south, to Celle.

The Castle of Celle was built on the river Aller, a tributary of the Weser that flows across the North German Plain, through Bremen and into the North Sea. Other tributaries include the Oker (which flows through both Brunswick and Wolfenbüttel) and the Leine (which joins Göttingen to Hanover). So most of the family’s territories—aside from Lüneburg itself—were joined by a network of rivers. The castle at Celle was very ancient, probably a tenth-century fortress guarding the river crossing. But it wasn’t a proper residential castle until the 1370s. It still today has the basic footprint of a rectangular keep with four huge corner towers, all on a moated island, but today’s appearance is from the later fifteenth century, the so-called ‘Weser Renaissance Style’. Remodelled in the 1670s by Duke Georg Wilhelm (below), with Italian influences, grand baroque state rooms, a theatre (one of the few remaining in northern Germany today) and French gardens, it was then underused in the eighteenth century until it became the prison for the disgraced Caroline Matilda of Hanover, Queen of Denmark, between 1772 and 1775. Celle was later used as a summer residence for the Hanoverian royal family of the nineteenth century, who expanded its landscape gardens.

the Schloss at Celle (photo Hajotthu)

One of the trends of the House of Brunswick in the Middle Ages was a desire to expand westward across Westphalia by absorbing smaller imperial counties, like Wölpe in 1302, Hoya in1582 and Diepholz in 1585. They also expanded their influence by placing sons in the key neighbouring bishoprics of Hildesheim, Verden and Bremen, and after the Reformation gradually absorbed these territories into their domains as well (basically creating what is today called the state of Lower Saxony). A new division of the entire House of Brunswick occurred in 1428, when Bernhard kept Lüneburg, Celle and other northern territories for himself, and gave Wolfenbüttel and other southern lands to his younger brother Wilhelm.

the basic division between the two main lines of the House of Brunswick, circa 1720 (Hoya, Diepholz are incorporated within the dark blue, in its western section)

Bernard died in 1434 and was succeeded by his sons ruling jointly, Otto IV the Lame, who died in 1446, and Frederick II the Pious. The brothers built the Castle of Celle into a proper princely residence. Frederick had an exceptionally long reign, even with a pause in the middle when he resigned to enter a Franciscan monastery he had built in Celle in 1457. His eldest son, Bernard II, had first been Bishop of Hildesheim, but resigned to take up his father’s position, with his brother Otto V as co-duke. Both sons were dead by 1471, so Frederick the Pious reigned once more until his death in 1478

Otto V’s young son Henry succeeded, age 10, under the regency of his mother, Anne of Nassau. He was pious like his grandfather, but got in trouble as an adult when he refused to support the election of Charles of Burgundy as Emperor Charles V in 1519. He was forced to abandon Germany and took refuge at the French court. Seeing his sons embrace the early phases of the Protestant Reformation, he attempted to return in 1527 to block the spread of heresy in Brunswick. He was pushed out and died in exile in 1532.

Henry, Duke of Brunswick-Luneburg

These sons, Otto, Ernst and Franz, all studied at the University of Wittenberg, the seat of their mother’s brother, the Elector of Saxony, the protector of Martin Luther. Otto and Ernst were given the duchy of Bruswick-Lüneburg by the Emperor to rule jointly in 1520, and they introduced many of the Lutheran reform ideas. Otto went further and married for love rather than duty in 1527, so resigned his rule and received instead the barony of Harburg. His children were to be reckoned as barons, not princes.

The line of Brunswick-Harburg was thus based in the castle of Harburg built by the counts of Stade in the 1130s on one of the branches of the Elbe south of the city of Hamburg. Acquired by the House of Brunswick in the 1250s, it remained a secondary castle until it became the seat of this separate branch in 1527. Otto of Harburg’s son Otto II took over in 1549 and was restored to his rank as a Duke of Brunswick-Lüneburg in 1560. He turned Harburg into a princely residence. After it returned to the main line in the mid-seventeenth century it was transformed again into a fortress. Much of this was pulled down in the nineteenth century, and today Harburg has been amalgamated into the city of Hamburg.

Harburg Castle in about 1620

Otto II died in 1603, leaving four sons. The eldest, Otto Henry, had died in 1591, and had married unequally, so his son Charles, a Spanish governor in the Low Countries, could not inherit. The next son, John Frederick, declined the succession, and Christopher soon died, so William Augustus and Otto III ruled together until their deaths in 1642 and 1641, respectively. The elder duke of Brunswick-Harburg was a scholar, and travelled all over Central Europe and Scandinavia. When the lands of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel were redistributed in 1634 (see below), he was given the County of Hoya, but when he himself died, unmarried, this, plus his possessions in Harburg were re-divided between the lines of Celle and Wolfenbüttel.

Meanwhile, another division had been made between the sons of Duke Henry, in 1539, with the creation of an apanage of Gifhorn for the youngest son, Franz. The castle at Gifhorn, only a princely capital for ten years, is one of the best preserved in the region, southeast of Celle, upriver on the Aller. Franz built a new residence here on the site of a much older castle. Heavily fortified, with ramparts, a wide moat and four corner bastion towers, it remained a fortification for the dynasty until the 1790s. Duke Franz was also an ardent supporter of the Protestant movement; the chapel he built here in 1547 was the first built specifically for Reformed worship in Germany. But the Duke died in 1549 and left only daughters, so Brunswick-Gifhorn did not spawn a separate branch.

Gifhorn Castle in the 1650s

Franz’s elder brother, Ernst the Confessor, thus ruled Lüneburg-Celle alone. He introduced Lutheran preachers all over his domains in the 1530s and secularised monasteries. He convinced the north German cities of Hamburg and Bremen to join the Schmalkaldic League, defending their church against the forces of the Catholic Emperor, and by the time of his death in 1546 was the most influential prince in the northern parts of the Empire.

Ernst the Confessor, Duke of Brunswick- Lüneburg-Celle

Ernst left four underage sons, Franz, Frederick, Henry and William, who were governed by their mother, Sophia of Mecklenburg, for the first ten years. Frederick died young, followed by Franz in 1559, leaving Henry and William to govern together. The brothers quarrelled and Henry gave up the bulk of the Brunswick-Lüneburg lands to William, agreeing instead that he would inherit the lands of the Wolfenbüttel branch which was heading for extinction already in the 1560s. As we can see in the Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel post, that gamble paid off, though not until 1634, and a new line of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel was created which persisted until the 1880s.

Duke William alone took over the Lüneburg lands and the family seat at Celle from 1569. In 1561 he had made an excellent marriage in Dorothea of Denmark, daughter of Christian III. She began to take charge of his estates in the 1580s as he slipped into mental illness, and after he died in 1592, she governed on behalf of their many sons: of fifteen children total, six boys survived to adulthood. The eldest, Ernest II, became head of this branch of the family, and the year before he died in 1611, convinced his siblings to agree to a new family pact that stipulated that the Brunswick-Lüneburg lands were henceforth indivisible—no more partitions—which was formally confirmed as law by Emperor Mathias.

The next two brothers were both ecclesiastics, but in the confusing times of the late sixteenth century governed their bishoprics either as elected Catholic bishops or as Lutheran ‘administrators’ of their sees: Christian in Minden and Augustus in Ratzeburg (on the south-western and north-eastern borders of Lüneburg respectively). Christian also took the lead in governing Lüneburg after 1611 and successfully added the principality of Grubenhagen to the south. In 1629, he renounced his ecclesiastical position and stepped aside as Sweden occupied the prince-bishopric of Minden—it was secularised and given to Brandenburg in the settlement of Westphalia in 1648. By that point, Christian had died, as had Augustus, who left several children by his ‘concubine’—these took the surname ‘von Lüneburg’ and continued on into the 1960s. The fourth son, Frederick, also held church offices, notably Provost of Bremen Cathedral, and died at the end of that eventful year 1648.

Meanwhile the youngest brother, Prince George, was lord of Calenberg and Göttingen from 1635, adding these southern territories to the Lüneburg branch of the family, whose lands now stretched from the Elbe River in the north to the Harz Mountains in the south. At first he lived in the Harz at the mighty hilltop castle of Herzberg (part of the Grubenhagen estates), where most of his children were born, but in 1636 relocated his seat—while his older brothers still governed from Celle—to the town of Hanover on the river Leine. Here he built a new residence, the Leine Castle or Leineschloss.

Duke Georg, Prince of Calenberg, showing all the various coats of arms of provinces accumulated by this branch of Brunswick- Lüneburg, and interesting crests at the top, including the iconic white horse of Hanover or Lower Saxony

Hanover—whose name may derive from hohen Ufer, the ‘high riverbank’—developed as a town in the thirteenth century, at a crossroads linking trade routes from the Hanseatic cities of the north to the hilly interior to the south. Duke George’s new residence on the Leine had been a Franciscan friary since the fourteenth century. Secularised in 1533 when the area became Lutheran, the new castle incorporated the old monastery church as its chapel. Enlarged later in the later seventeenth century by Duke Ernst August, notably with the addition of a theatre, the Leineschloss was the birthplace of the future George I of Great Britain in 1660. It became a royal palace from 1814 and was rebuilt and expanded over the next two decades in a neoclassical style under the guidance of the Duke of Cambridge, viceroy of Hanover. It was then the main royal residence of the kings of Hanover after the dynastic separation from Great Britain in 1837, until it was taken over by occupying Prussian administrators in 1866. The Leineschloss was almost completely destroyed by aerial raids in World War II, and rebuilt in 1957-62, though with a more modern look. Today it is the seat of the parliament for the state of Lower Saxony.

the Leineschloss in Hanover before it was modernised in 1816
the Leineschloss today

Duke George of Brunswick-Calenberg died in 1641. His eldest son Christian Ludwig succeeded to all of the family lands in 1648 with the death of his uncle Frederick, but as was firm family tradition, shared rule with his many brothers. He resided at Celle and gave Calenberg to the second son, Georg Wilhelm (I’ll shift to German spellings now). Meanwhile their sister Sophie Amalie became Queen of Denmark and Norway in 1648, having married the son of Christian IV in 1643. Her husband Frederick III had been (when he was the second son, not the heir) the Lutheran administrator of Verden and Bremen during the Thirty Years War—we will see these two territories later added to the patrimony of the House of Hanover.

Christian Ludwig died in 1665. Before he did though, the brothers had made a pact, 1658, agreeing that none would marry except the youngest, Ernst August. In 1665, the second brother, Georg Wilhelm, became Duke of Brunswick-Lüneburg, and passed the secondary principality, Calenberg, to the third brother Johann Friedrich, keeping only Celle for himself. He did this because he was about to break the brotherly pact by marrying: a Huguenot noblewoman from Poitou, Eléonore Desmier d’Olbreuse. The marriage was deemed unequal, and their one child, Sophia Dorothea, born 1666, was barred from claiming full rights as a member of the House of Brunswick. In 1674 the Emperor raised Eléonore and her daughter to the rank of Countess of Harburg and Wilhelmsburg.

Georg Wilhelm, Duke of Brunswick- Lüneburg-Celle
Eleonora d’Olbreuse

Harburg refers to the Brunswick residence outside Hamburg as above. The latter name was a curiosity: three small islands in the river Elbe near Harburg acquired by Georg Wilhelm in 1672 and renamed for him. He connected the islets together using dams, and gradually the area was developed as part of the port of Hamburg. Harburg-Wilhelmsburg formed one administrative unit from the 1920s and was annexed to the city of Hamburg in 1937. It even had a small moated castle, dating from about 1500, today a ruin.

George William lived for many years at Celle, and served as a military commander as a loyal supporter of the Emperor in Vienna—while in contrast, his Catholic brother Johann Friedrich supported France in its wars of the 1670s. He had turned out to be one of the most distinctive of the Brunswick brothers: a Francophile and a Catholic. Travelling in Italy as a young man in the 1650s, he had encountered the intense personal piety of the Catholic Reformation in Rome and renounced his Lutheran faith in about 1651.

Johann Friedrich, Duke of Brunswick-Lüneburg-Calenberg

In the 1660s, while Georg Wilhelm remained in Celle, Johann Friedrich settled into his share of the duchy, Calenberg, making Hanover his residence. Here he imported Italian architects to design new baroque churches, and, inspired by developments he’d seen in garden design in France, he decided to build a French garden of his own, Herrenhausen, a short distance outside the city. This was built in a floodplain of the Leine, the site of a small manor house built in the 1640s and now enlarged as a summer palace. Herrenhausen eventually was connected to the city of Hanover by a one-mile long Allee and included several distinct gardens (the Great Garden, the Hill Garden, and the George and Welf gardens). Much of it was developed by the Electress Sophia (below), and she, her husband and son are buried here. Herrenhausen was still owned by the House of Hanover in the 1940s, badly bombed in 1943 and rebuilt only in 2010-13, reopening in time for the fantastic exhibitions celebrating the three-hundredth anniversary of the Hanoverian accession to the British throne—during which time I was fortunate to visit this magical place.

Herrenhausen and its gardens in 1708
Aerial view of Herrenhausen at top left, the George Garden towards the bottom, the Allee, and the Welf Garden at right (photo Carsten Steger)

Duke Johann Friedrich was not meant to marry, according to the pact agreed by the brothers in the 1650s, but he did. In 1668 he married Benedicta Henrietta of the Palatinate, daughter of one of the sons of the ‘Winter Queen’ (Elizabeth of Bohemia) who had, like himself, renounced Protestantism. Her sister was the Princess of Condé, first princess of the blood in France, so this marriage made the dukes of Brunswick nervous. Happily for them, the couple had only daughters, so they could not inherit the Welf properties, but two of the three made excellent marriages: one became Duchess of Modena, and the other, Wilhelmine Amalia, became Holy Roman Empress as wife of Joseph I. Johann Friedrich’s other long-term impact was the hiring in 1676 of a new librarian at Herrenhausen, Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz, who also became a trusted ducal counsellor, and stayed in the family’s employment for the next forty years.

When Johann Friedrich died in 1679, he passed the principality of Calenberg and the residences in Hanover to the youngest brother, Ernst August. Ernst had been chosen to marry the princess from the Palatinate, Sophie, whom none of his older brothers seemed to want, in 1658; he then was selected to act as Prince-Bishop of Osnabrück in 1662. His marriage was no obstacle here, since Osnabrück now had a very strange constitution: since 1648, it was agreed that the Catholic canons of the cathedral would elect their own bishop, and when he died, the territory would be governed by a Lutheran member of the House of Brunswick—and then would return to the Catholics again when he died, on and on in alternation. Ernst and Sophie moved into the bishop’s residence outside the town, Iburg Castle, then after 1667 began construction of a new palace in the city itself.

Ernst August of Brunswick-Lüneburg, Prince-Bishop of Osnabrück, later Elector of Hanover

Iburg Castle, about 16 km south of Osnabrück, had ancient roots, with a castle built here as early as the eight century by the local Saxon kings. A new castle was constructed in the eleventh century by Bishop Benno—who gave his name to the central tower, the Bennoturm—as well as a Benedictine monastery. Ernst August added a Protestant chapel in the castle, leaving the earlier Catholic one too.

Iburg Schloss, with the Benno Tower at its core (photo Basotxerri)

The Osnabrück residence built by Ernst August remained the main seat of the prince-bishops until the principality was secularised and incorporated into the Kingdom of Hanover in 1803. The palace is still lovely today and it serves as the main buildings for the University of Osnabrück.

The residence of the prince-bishop in Osnabrück (note curious backwards printing at top when it is the right way at bottom)

Now ruler of all of the Brunswick-Lüneburg territories except Celle (still occupied by Georg Wilhelm), Ernst August moved his residence to the Leineschloss in Hanover. He began the process of enhancing his family’s position within the Holy Roman Empire—serving as a commander in the armies of Emperor Leopold I in the defence of Vienna against the Turks in 1683, then in the battles to reclaim the Hungarian plain, he struck a deal in return that would turn his patchwork of duchies into a unified state which would be erected into the ninth electorate of the Empire. There had been seven electors since the fourteenth century, but after 1648 there were eight, since Bavaria and the Palatinate split the ancient Wittelsbach vote. In anticipation of his family’s elevation, Ernst declared in 1683 that from henceforth, his family would be ruled by primogeniture and the centuries-old practice of dividing the duchy up between sons would cease. In 1692, the Emperor held up his end of the bargain, and Brunswick-Lüneburg was named an electorate, though it is better known as Hanover. The new elector was also given an official ceremonial role within the Empire, as ‘arch-bannerer’, with ceremonial duties at imperial coronations and funerals (this office was later exchanged in 1710 for ‘arch-treasurer’).

coat of arms of the electors of Hanover, with the red shield of a high office of the empire (in this case, Archtreasurer, with Charlemagne’s crown) with the Brunswick lion, the Hanoverian horse and the Lüneburg lion (with hearts) on the top row, and various other fiefs, most notably the bear’s paws of Hoya

By this point, the heir, Georg Ludwig, was married. He had initially rejected the idea of marrying his cousin, Sophia Dorothea, as someone not fully princely due to her parents’ unorthodox marriage. But in 1675, Duke Georg Wilhelm decided to secure his daughter’s future by declaring that his marriage to Eléonore d’Olbreuse was fully valid, not morganatic, and that she and her daughter were both intitled to be styled duchess of Brunswick. He even staged another wedding ceremony at Celle in 1676 to be clear: it was not attended by his family. Duchess Eléonore even became pregnant in 1679 and there were fears she would have a son, throwing all of the Hanoverian plans into disarray. The child did not live, but Ernst August was thus convinced that his son would marry Sophia Dorothea. They married in November 1682, and although they had two children right away they soon loathed each other and lived apart.

Georg Ludwig as a young man (the future George I of Great Britain)

Then in the 1690s, the domestic harmony of the House of Hanover fell apart. All the sons of Ernst August and Sophie were warriors: Georg Ludwig and his brother Friedrich August also fought at the siege of Vienna 1683. But after the latter was killed in battle in Transylvania in 1691, the next sons in line, Maximilian Wilhelm and Christian Heinrich, realised that the new primogeniture rules meant they would not receive a portion of the duchy to rule when their father died. They plotted against him, were arrested and exiled. Both became imperial commanders and converted to Catholicism. Christian Heinrich was killed in 1703 near Ulm, but Maximilian Wilhelm lived on in Vienna until 1726.

This rebellion averted, another arose in 1694, in the person of the heir’s wife, Sophia Dorothea. Though her husband of course had a mistress by the early 1690s (his wife’s lady in waiting, Melusine von der Schulenberg), when Sophia Dorothea herself fell in love, with Philipp, Count von Königsmarck, a general in the army of the Elector of Saxony, it was unacceptable. In 1694 it became public knowledge at court, and her husband threatened her with imprisonment or violence. She appealed to her parents in Celle, and got no support, so planned to escape with Königsmarck to Dresden. On the night of 11 July, the Count suddenly disappeared—and no one has ever discovered what happened: was he thrown into the Leine? It caused an international incident involving Saxony, Poland, Austria, France… Georg Ludwig demanded a divorce, which was granted by the end of 1694. Sophia Dorothea was confined to Ahlden House, a large moated manor house on the Lüneburg Heath west of Celle. Today it is an antiques auction house. She was sometimes called the ‘Princess of Ahlden’ but it was an empty title as she was confined here for the rest of her life (she died in 1726).

Sophie Dorothea as Flora, by Henri Gascar, 1686
Ahlden House in the 1650s

The first Elector of Hanover, Ernst August, died in 1698. Shortly after this, his widow, Electress Sophie, was named as heir to the thrones of England, Scotland and Ireland by the Act of Settlement, 1701. She very nearly succeeded her cousin, Queen Anne, but died at her beloved Herrenhausen only two months short, in the summer of 1714. The history of the House of Hanover now became the history of the royal house of Great Britain, so outside the scope of this blog site. Georg Ludwig, Elector of Hanover, became George I, king of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, and his family governed these islands until the death of Queen Victoria in 1901.

Electress Sophie in 1706

Links with Germany certainly continued: King’s George’s sister, Sophie Charlotte, married the Elector of Brandenburg and became the first Queen of Prussia when her husband’s status was elevated in 1701 (Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin is named for her). The youngest brother, Ernst August, was selected to fill the family’s post as Prince-Bishop of Osnabrück in 1715. In Britain he was also created Duke of York and Albany; his elder brother, Maximilian Wilhelm, was given nothing, and as a Catholic, was excluded from the line of succession. A later Hanoverian prince, Frederick (also duke of York), occupied this curious hybrid episcopal see of Osnabrück from 1764; he would be the last, as the prince-bishopric was dissolved in 1803.

Osnabrück was not the only family tie remaining in this region. The Electorate was now one unit, giving the Elector (aka the King of Great Britain and Ireland) a vote in the Imperial Diet. But after 1715 there were also several other adjacent territories that continued to have elements of separate government and gave additional votes to the Elector: the counties of Hoya and Diepholz, and now the duchies of Bremen and Verden, secularised former bishoprics governed by Sweden after the Thirty Years War and now purchased by Hanover. George I also added the final domains of Celle to Hanover after the death of his uncle and father-in-law. Georg Wilhelm had also occupied the neighbouring Duchy of Saxe-Lauenburg, whose ancient line of dukes had died out in 1689 (this duchy, one of the Empire’s oldest, will have its own blog post); so it too passed to the Elector of Hanover as a separate political entity (and yet another vote in the Diet), though not confirmed by the Emperor until 1729. Some of these territories had direct votes like Bremen and Verden, while others were entitled just to participate in a collective vote of the council of counts of Westphalia, like Hoya and Diepholz, and the county of Spiegelberg (south of Hanover, a county since the 1060s, part of Brunswick-Calenberg since the 1550s). In one of the last accountings of the votes allocated to German princes in the Diet, in 1792, Brunswick-Celle and Brunswick-Lüneburg (aka Hanover) are listed separately, as is Brunswick-Calenberg and Brunswick-Grubenhagen. By my reckoning that is seven individual votes, plus the collective vote in Westphalia, and one for Osnabrück—but what did this mean in practice? Did the King of England try to outvote other princes in imperial matters? I’ve asked some historians of the Holy Roman Empire, but never received a sufficient answer.

In Great Britain, King George I distributed titles to his family: his son Georg August was already Duke of Cambridge (from 1706), and from 1714 became Prince of Wales, Duke of Cornwall and Duke of Rothsay (and in Hanover was known as the ‘Electoral Prince’). Meanwhile, his daughter, Sophia Dorothea, succeeded her aunt as Queen of Prussia (and mother of Frederick the Great). The King’s younger brother Ernst August was, as we’ve seen, named Duke of York and Albany, and in 1721 his second grandson, William, was named Duke of Cumberland. The elder grandson, Frederick, had been left in Hanover to be raised as a German prince, far from the court of London. The King also named his half-sister (his father’s illegitimate daughter) Sophie Charlotte Countess of Leicester (in the Irish peerage), and Countess of Darlington (1721 and 1722), and his own mistress, Melusine von der Schulenberg, Duchess of Munster (1716, peerage of Ireland), then Duchess of Kendal (1719, peerage of Great Britain). There was never any mention of the Princess of Ahlden.

the royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom in the 18th century, including the arms of Brunswick-Lüneburg-Hanover at lower right (and arch-treasurer of the Holy Roman Empire)

In the eighteenth century, the Hanoverians became increasingly English, though several younger sons were sent abroad to be educated at the University of Göttingen (founded in 1734 by George II). The Electorate was overrun by French armies in 1803, and in the post-Napoleonic settlements, was elevated to the rank of a kingdom in 1814. George III’s youngest son, Adolphus, Duke of Cambridge, was viceroy of the new Kingdom of Hanover, from 1816. From 1837, there emerges a separate story for Hanover again since Queen Victoria could not succeed to the German territories due to the Salic Law. Her uncle the Duke of Cumberland took over as King of Hanover, but his son, George V, lost the territory in 1866 after backing the wrong horse in the short war between Austria and Prussia for dominance in Germany. So we can finish off by looking at the development of the extensive properties in the old duchies of Brunswick and Lüneburg by its now royal house.

Prince Adolphus, Duke of Cambridge, Viceroy of Hanover

The gardens at Herrenhausen had already been expanded, with the addition of the George Garden and the George Palace (Georgenpalais) in the reign of King George III in 1817. These had been built by an illegitimate son of George II, Johann Ludwig, Count von Wallmoden, an imperial lieutenant-general and collector of art and antiquities. He built the Wallmoden Schloss in 1782 to house these treasures. Wallmoden’s mother had been Amalie von Wendt, created Countess of Yarmouth (1740), but he had taken his name from her husband (and legally his father), the Count of Wallmoden—from an ancient Brunswicker noble family from the area southwest of Wolfenbüttel. By the end of his life Johann Ludwig had been created count of the Empire, with his own vote in the Diet (for the immediate lordship of Gimborn), and was Commander-in-Chief of the Hanoverian army (1803). After he died in 1811, the castle and gardens were acquired by the King, and the gardens were developed in ‘English style’. Since 1921, they have been owned by the city of Hanover.

The Georgenpalais, Hanover (photo Tim Rademacher)

Nearby, King George V replaced the eighteenth-century Schloss Monbrilliant with a new neo-gothic structure, the Welfenschloss and adjacent gardens, the Welfengarten. There was a plan to move the official royal seat here from the Leinschloss, but exile from the Kingdom scuppered that plan and the palace was never fully completed. Today it forms the main buildings of the Leibniz University Hanover (since 1899); and the former grand stables are now the university library. The gardens remained property of the former royal family, however, until 1961, when they were sold to the city, keeping only a smaller residence on the grounds, the Fürstenhaus (built in the 1720s), which is still the family’s private residence.

Welfenschloss in 1895
Fürstenhaus in Hanover (photo Bernd Schwabe)

Also still owned by today’s House of Hanover is Marienburg Castle, about 30 km south of Hanover. Built by George V in the 1850s as a present for his wife Marie as a grand neogothic fantasy, it sat mostly empty after the family moved to Austria in 1866—to Cumberland Castle, built in the 1880s on Lake Traunsee near Gmunden in Upper Austria.

Marienburg Castle (photo Michael Gäbler)
Cumberland Castle, Gmunden, Austria (photo C.Stadler/Bwag)

After 1945, however, they moved back to Marienburg. In 1954, the heir moved to the nearby Calenberg estate and opened Marienburg as a museum. It was given to the current head of the family’s son, Prince August, in 2004, who used it primarily as the ‘formal’ seat of the family and management offices. But in 2018, August sold it to the state of Lower Saxony for a symbolic one euro, to a heritage foundation. His father blocked it in the courts, however, so it now belongs to a different charity, the Marienburg Castle Foundation, with August as chair. This year it began a major course of renovations that is expected to last nearly a decade.

Ernst August, Hereditary Prince of Hanover unveils a new bust of Leipzig at Marienburg, 2016 (photo Bernd Schwabe in Hannover)

The Duchy of Brunswick-Lüneburg had one last burst of life at the very end of the existence of the German principalities in the early twentieth century. After Prussia conquered the Kingdom of Hanover in 1866, its heirs were prohibited from exercising authority in any areas of the ancient duchy. Nearby, the duchy of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel continued, but became extinct in 1884—the heir would have been his distant cousin, the Prince of Hanover, also known by his British title the Duke of Cumberland, but the German government determined that unless he renounced his claims to the Kingdom of Hanover, he could not take over as Duke of Brunswick either. For thirty years, that territory was governed by regents appointed by the Kaiser. Then in 1912, Cumberland renounced his claims to enable his son Ernst August to marry Victoria Louise of Prussia, the daughter of the Kaiser (see here for an interesting ‘musing’ about this wedding). The wedding of May 1913 was the last great gathering of European royals before the First World War, with guests from George V of England to Nicholas II of Russia. As a sort of ‘wedding present’, the Kaiser restored the young couple to the Duchy of Brunswick, which they governed from November 1913 until the collapse of the German Empire in November 1918.

an engagement photo (later photoshopped with veil) of the future Duke and Duchess of Brunswick, 1913

With the end of the war, the Duke of Brunswick was also deprived of his rank as a British prince and the title Duke of Cumberland. They lived on in exile in Austria then at Marienburg—Ernst August died in 1953, but his widow lived on until 1980, age nearly 90! The House of Brunswick-Lüneburg continues today as princes of Hanover in exile, but its names live on in incredibly diverse places all over the world. The state of Virginia has a Hanover County, a Brunswick County and a Lunenburg County (using the spelling prevalent in English in the eighteenth century). There is a New Brunswick Province in Canada, a city of Guelph in Ontario (with a university of the same name), and fourteen towns in the US called Brunswick, and seventeen towns called Hanover. Hanover island is in Papua-New Guinea, while Hanover Island is in the extreme south of Chile.

the Brunswick-Lüneburg arms at Schloss Celle (photo Hajotthu)

The Princes of the Isles: From Viking Warlords to the Great Clan MacDonald

I’ve been watching ‘Vikings’ on television again this summer, and always find it fascinating to see how Norwegian and Danish seafaring culture impacted the culture of the British Isles in the early medieval period. But this series, or the series ‘The Last Kingdom’, focuses almost entirely on the eastern and southern realms of Anglo-Saxon England: Northumbria and Wessex. Those who know something about the history of Scotland, however, know that Scandinavian power also extended over much of the northern and western parts of that kingdom, and even endured for several more centuries. One of the epic princely stories from this time period is that of a Viking warrior, Somerled, King of the Isles (d. 1164). From him descends one of the most powerful clans of Highlands and Islands of Scotland: the MacDonalds. These were entitled ‘Lord of the Isles’—though sometimes given title ‘prince’ or even ‘king’—whose territories at their greatest extent stretched from the Outer Hebrides to the Isle of Man, and on the mainland across the north of Scotland to Inverness, until it all came crashing down at the end of the fifteenth century.

A Victorian vision of a Norse-Gaelic king of the Isles

After that, the successive chiefs of Clan MacDonald held no higher noble titles than ‘laird’ in the Scottish system, with the exception of one branch, Macdonnell, based in Ulster, which received an earldom (later marquessate), of Antrim, in the peerage of Ireland; and another received a barony, of Slate, also in Ireland. One line, Clanranald, made noises about being of ‘princely’ stock in the early eighteenth century when they supported the Jacobite pretender (and were given a barony, but only in the Jacobite peerage). Today, some of the Highland chiefs are referred to as ‘prince’ of their clan—so I have decided to include them as honorary members of this website on ‘dukes and princes’, as descendants of the genuinely princely Somerled, Prince of the Isles.

The thorny question, though, is whether Somerled was a Viking or not. Recent DNA tests have affirmed that his paternal ancestors were indeed Norse, but in his own time, the warrior-king thought of himself as part of the Gaelic community that stretched across the narrow channel between Ireland and Scotland, the kinship of the royal house of Dalriata. This was politically astute as he tried to balance his fragile independence between the far-off king of Norway—who still claimed to be sovereign in these parts—and the rising power of the Gaelic kingdom of the Scots, and the always feuding kingdoms of Ireland. Legends connected his ancestry through royal lineages of Ulster all the way back to Conn of the Hundred Battles, the legendary second-century High King of Ireland. Another motive may have been Somerled’s desire to unify the Gaelic Christian world under the leadership of the Monastery of Iona in the face of Latin Christianity taking over from the south and east.

So his identity in truth was blended. His name is spelled either Somhairle in Irish or Sumarliði in Norse (‘summer traveller’). His descendants are known as Clan Somhairle. But where did he come from? Much of Somerled’s story is fragmentary and sometimes contradictory. He is said to have been born in Argyll, or maybe in Ireland (his father is given an Irish name: Gille Bride). He first appears in archival sources in 1153 during a rising of his Scots nephews against King Malcolm IV. It seems he had initially been serving in, or provided mercenaries to, the armies of King David I, who subjugated Argyll in the 1130s. He later fought against this King David’s grandson, Malcolm IV, because (it is conjectured) his sister married an illegitimate son of King Alexander I (who had been displaced by David I), and her sons were thus trying to regain their inheritance. This probably spurred his own ambitions to create an independent kingdom of his own in Argyll and the Western Isles (Islay, Skye, Mull, Lewis, etc). These ‘southern isles’ (in contrast to the northern isles of Orkney and Shetland) were called in Norse the Suðreyjar, or the Sudreys in English (or even ‘Sodor’). In Gaelic, the Kingdom of the Isles was called the Rioghachd nan Eilean.

the extent of the Kingdom of the Isles in the tie of Somerled (dark red) also showing relative position to the Orkneys, the Kingdom of the Scots, and the chietaincies of Northern Ireland

Somerled’s main seat was his castle on the island of Islay: Finlaggan. This remained the princely headquarters for his descendants the Lords of the Isles until the 1490s. It was located on Eilean Mór, ‘the Great Island’, in Loch Finlaggan in the interior of the island. A stone castle was built in the thirteenth century to replace Somerled’s wooden fort. This island also had a church, Kilfinlaggan, once a monastery—possibly founded by an Irish monk, Saint Findlugan, in the seventh century. Both are in ruins today. A smaller island in Loch Finlaggan, Eilean na Comhairle (‘Isle of the Council’), served as the administrative centre for the Kingdom of the Isles.

the ruins of Finlaggan, showing the castle and the church (and the separate council island behind it)
a lovely aerial shot of the two islands

The war Somerled fought in the 1150s was also over another significant island, the Isle of Man, which had been ruled by a dynasty of Norsemen since the 1070s: the Crovans. Norsemen had created chieftaincies and small kingdoms here since the ninth century. Their lords were called the Ivarids (or Uí Ímair in Irish), ‘the dynasty of Ivar’, which has led some to believe they descended from the ferocious legendary Viking warrior Ivar the Boneless who invaded England with his ‘Great Heathen Army’ in 865. But it may simply be a different Ivar who lived about the same time. He founded a dynasty that ruled variously in York and in Dublin for the next two centuries. Ivar hailed from Lochlann, the Irish term for Norway (or for the Norwegian realms in western Scotland). In 990, the Jarl of Orkney took direct control over the Western Isles in the name of the King of Norway, and installed a local jarl, Gilli, as viceroy. Norse kings in Dublin extended their rule over the Western Isles in the eleventh century. One of these, Godred Crovan (which could mean ‘whitehand’—or else a corruption of Cuarán, the name of an early King of the Isles), fought for the Viking king Harald Hardrada at Stamford Bridge, 1066, then fled to the Isle of Man where he proclaimed himself king by the end of the 1070s. He was later ousted and died on Islay in 1095.

One of the most intriguing moments of Norse-Scottish history occurred in about this time, in 1093, when King Magnus III of Norway came to the Western Isles to re-establish direct rule and to potentially conquer the mainland from the Scots, famously pulling his longboats over the isthmus of Kintyre to prove that this narrow peninsula should indeed be considered an island, and therefore legally his. In 1098, the king of the Scots officially renounced claims over the islands (and did include Kintyre).

ships of course feature prominently, and this early image of a galley or lymphad became the arms of the Croven dynasty and later the kings of the Isles

One of the Croven kings of the Isle of Man, Olaf Godredson (Óláfr Guðrøðarson), ruled for a long time by Viking standards (1112-1153). In about 1140, Somerled married his daughter, Ragnhild Olafsdottir. Olaf had used this marriage as part of his anti-Scots coalition (with Fergus of Galloway, and even Stephen of Blois, king of the English), and also sought Norse support by sending his son Godred to Norway to do homage, 1152. Olaf was assassinated in 1153 by his own kin from Dublin while Godred was on the return voyage. The son found maintaining his father’s realm difficult, and he was pushed out of Man by Somerled, on the encouragement of local leaders. Somerled installed his son by Ragnhild, Dugall, on the Manx throne.

Castles from this time period on the Isle of Man include the main fortress built by Norse princes in the capital Castletown on the south-eastern side of the island, now called Castle Rushen, and Peel Castle on the western side, facing Ireland. Rushen’s central square tower was built in the tenth century then significantly augmented in the early fourteenth century when Man was captured by the Scottish kings. Peel Castle has a stone round tower from the eleventh century that survives, but the old wooden fort was replaced, like Rushen’s walls, in the early fourteenth century—though in this case with distinctive red sandstone. Peel Castle was the seat of the bishops of Sodor and Man until the eighteenth century, whereas Rushen was privately owned by the Stanley family as Lords of Man. Both were taken over by the British Crown in the eighteenth century. Though not part of the United Kingdom, the British monarch is still today the ‘Lord of Man’.

19th-century print of Castle Rushen, Isle of Man
Peel Castle today

The complicated succession war in which Somerled had intervened in Scotland and in Man also involved the MacLochlans of Tyrone and the O’Connors of Connaught in the north of Ireland. The deposed Godred Olafson himself tried to take the Kingdom of Dublin in 1155. By 1156, Somerled abandoned the cause of his Scottish nephews and focussed instead on Man. There was a great battle off the coast of Islay in January 1156 and neither side could claim a victory. Somerled and Godred therefore initially divided the realm, but by 1158, the latter was driven out, and Dugall confirmed as King of Man. Somerled himself took the title King of the Isles (rex insularum, or in Irish rí Innse Gall), which included the Western Islands (the Outer and Inner Hebrides, but also the islands in the Firth of Clyde (Arran and Bute), as well as Argyll, Kintyre and Lorne on the mainland. He then made peace with Malcolm IV by 1160. But in 1164, possibly during another invasion of Scottish territory, he was killed at the Battle of Renfrew, south of Glasgow. He was probably buried on Iona, in the chapel he founded, Saint Oran’s.

Dugall mac Somairle only held on to Man for about a year, before it was taken back by his mother’s family the Crovens, with help from the King of Norway. The Kingdom of the Isles was thereafter divided: the northern Hebrides (Lewis, Harris, Skye) and the Isle of Man returned to the Crovan Dynasty, while the southern Hebrides (Mull, Islay) and the mainland territories were retained by Clan Somairle.

the later division between the Crovan and Somairle families

The Crovan Dynasty continued as kings of Man until 1265. This was just two years after the great Battle of Largs, the last attempt of a king of Norway to keep control of western Scotland. Alexander III defeated Haakon IV at a small town on the coast of Ayrshire and ended five hundred years of Viking incursions. The 1266 Treaty of Perth transferred the Hebrides and Man to the Scottish Crown.

Of the sons of Somerled, facts are unclear, but it appears that Dugall (Dougall or Dubgall) received Lorne and Argyll, Angus got the northern Hebrides, and Ranald (or Ragnall) got Kintyre. Somerled’s daughter, Bethoc, was Prioress of Iona. Ranald asserted himself with the title ‘King of the Isles and Lord of Kintyre’, but as was so common in ruling dynasties of the period, Angus challenged this supremacy, and though Ranald was killed in about 1192 (or forced into a monastery), ultimately Angus and his sons were killed by Ranald’s sons in 1210. So two main branches emerged: the MacDougalls on the mainland (Argyll and Lorne) and the MacDonalds (named for Ranald’s second son, Donald or Domnall) in the islands. A third clan, Clan Ruaidri, descended from Ranald’s elder son, held Uist, Barra and some parts of the mainland; they died out in the 1340s. The MacDougalls fell from prominence after backing the wrong horse in the Scottish Wars of Independence (1290s-1320s) and their lands were redistributed to Stewarts and Campbells. Their seat has long been (and remains today) Dunollie Castle near Oban—the old fortress is a ruin, so they moved into a newer house next door in the mid-eighteenth century. Dunstaffnage Castle was their other famous stronghold, but it was lost with many of their other lands in 1309.

Dunollie Castle, seat of the MacDougalls

It is the line of Donald, the MacDonalds, that this blogpost will follow. Today Clan Donald is represented by four lines, with four clan chiefs: Macdonald of Macdonald, Macdonald of Sleat, Macdonald of Clanranald and Macdonald of Glengarry (plus many, many sub-branches). The founder was Donald, son of Ranald. He was possibly named for his mother’s clan, if she was indeed Fonia, daughter of William, Earl of Moray, son of King Duncan II—since Donald/Domnall was a name commonly used by the royal family. It comes from Gaelic dumno-ualos ‘world-ruler’ (in contrast, Ranald is not Gaelic in origin, but Germanic, from Norse Rögnvaldr, ‘ruler’s counsellor’). The facts of Lord Donald’s life are even shakier than those for his father and grandfather. He was possibly the subject of a story about a miracle escape from a Manx prison thanks to the intervention of the Virgin Mary in 1249, and probably died around 1250. He had two sons, Angus (Aonghus) Mór, Lord of Islay, and Alasdair, Lord of Kintyre. From the latter descends Clan MacAlister.

a helpful map from Clan Donald website showing the distributions of the branches covered in this post

Aonghus mac Domhnaill was the first to bear the surname that became ‘MacDonald’. As a vassal of the King of Norway he had participated in the war against the Scots in the 1260s, but as that failed after Largs, he submitted to the King of the Scots, 1264, and the Isles, as seen above were formally annexed to Scotland. He therefore integrated into Scottish politics, for example, attending a council that met at Scone in 1284 to recognise Princess Margaret as heir to the throne. But he also involved himself in Irish politics, helping his kin defend versus the expansion of Anglo-Irish power in the north (and marrying his daughter to an O’Donnell, king of Tyrconnell). He had three sons: Alasdair Og, Lord of Islay, Aonghus Og and Eoin (Og means ‘the younger’). The last of these was founder of the line of MacDonald of Ardnamurchan. The eldest, Alasdair, held on to Kintyre, Jura and other small islands, and sometimes used the title ‘Prince of the Isles’. He married a MacDougall cousin and made claims on their territories, and supported King Edward of England in his attempts to subjugate Scotland after 1292. He was killed in 1299, and the MacDonald succession was unclear: his sons seem to have been excluded and became mercenaries in Ireland; his brother Aonghus took over instead and continued the feud versus the MacDougalls. Aonghus supported the rise of Robert the Bruce by about 1306 and was rewarded with his rival’s lands on the western coast (Lochaber, Ardnamurchan and Glencoe). He fought with the Bruce at Bannockburn, 1314, and perhaps campaigned in Ireland with his brother Edward, 1315-18 (and maybe was killed there).

Aongus Og mac Domhnaill had two sons. The younger, illegitimate, was Eoin Fraoch (‘snarling’), who founded the line of MacDonald of Glencoe—well known from the song about the famous massacre of 1692, when Clan Campbell carried out orders from William III to bring to heel the disloyal, Stuart-supporting, MacDonalds. The older son, also called Eoin  or Iain (John), is seen as ‘Lord of the Isles’ in a document from 1336, though some near contemporaries did call him ‘king’: Rí Innsi Gall. He was courted by one faction in the ongoing succession wars of Scotland and gained the islands of Mull, Skye, Lewis and others for his clan (later confirmed by King David II). He then added the lordship of Garmoran on the mainland, through marriage to a MacRory, with the castle Tioram (‘Dry Castle’), an island in Loch Moidart that controlled access to Loch Shiel (also called Dorlin Castle). It too was said to have been built originally by Somerled, and eventually became the seat of the Clanranald branch of the family (below). Iain MacDonald’s bride was Lady Margaret Stewart, daughter of King Robert II. His new royal associate pressed him to disinherit his sons from his first marriage, but he was given the large Lordship of Lochaber as an incentive. By the time of his death in 1386, MacDonald power was nearing its high point. He controlled much of the western mainland and all of the Western Isles, including Iona, and was buried there.

Iain’s elder son, by the first marriage, was Ranald, Lord of Garmoran. He founded the lines of Clanranald and MacDonald of Glengarry (to which we will return). The younger sons, by Princess Margaret, were Donald, Lord of the Isles, and Iain, Lord of Dunyvaig. The latter rebelled against his brother in 1387, lost, and was exiled—he later served the English kings Richard II and Henry IV in their Irish affairs. His descendants were the MacDonalds of Dunyvaig. Dunyvaig Castle itself was another of those built by Somerled in the twelfth century, on the other side of Islay, on Lagavulin Bay. After the confiscations of the MacDonald castles of the late fifteenth century, it fell into disrepair, then was rebuilt when it was restored in 1545, as the seat Dunyvaig line (aka Clan Donald South, later earls of Antrim; see below). Surrendered to the Crown in 1608, it was given to the Campbells in 1647 and soon pulled down.

the ruins of Dunyveg Castle

Donald MacDonald of Islay, Lord of the Isles, shifted the focus of the clan more towards the Kingdom of Scotland. As a grandson of King Robert II, he stressed his royal blood, and added a tressure to his arms (the same decorative ‘frame’ that is used in the Scottish royal arms). In the late 1390s, he started to encroach on territory on the mainland: Ross and Badenoch, lands of one of the branches of the House of Stewart. By 1395, he had taken Urquhart Castle, one of the most famous in the Highlands, a royal castle on Loch Ness in the Great Glen. This helped in his march towards conquering the Earldom of Ross, which controlled much of the far north of Scotland. In 1402, its last Earl (Alexander Leslie) died, and his sister Mariota, who was married to Donald, made claims on the vast territory. By 1410, MacDonald had taken Dingwall Castle, seat of the earldom—and deriving its name from the Norse Þingvöllr, meeting place of the ‘thing’ or assembly— on Cromarty Firth on the east coast of Scotland. 1411 saw two big battles: between clans MacDonald and McKay for dominance of the north; and against the Duke of Albany—Robert Stewart, Donald’s uncle, but also regent to his other nephew, King James I—and the Earl of Mar (Alexander Stewart). The latter battle was known as ‘Red Harlaw’ due to its savagery. Donald was victorious in all of these and the Crown recognised his possession of the Earldom of Ross. But in 1415, Albany retook Dingwall and assigned the earldom to his son John—John spent most his time fighting in France, and when he died there in 1424, Ross was uncontestedly in the hands of the MacDonalds. The ancient province of Ross, stretching from coast to coast, may have taken its name from the Norse word for Orkney (Hrossey, ‘horse island’), or—and more sensibly to me—from Gaelic for ‘headland’, referring to the great rocky cliffs near Dingwall. It had been an earldom from at least the twelfth century.

the arms of the Lord of the Isles with the tressue

By this point, Donald, 2nd Lord of the Isles, had died and was succeeded by his son, Alexander, 3rd Lord and now 10th Earl of Ross. His brother Angus was created Bishop of the Isles, in 1426. This diocese, covering the Western Isles from the Hebrides to Man, is sometimes called Sodor, taking its name from that ancient Norse word for the southern isles (see above). It was created in about 1130; after 1387 it was divided and Man was ruled separately (and the diocese was abolished altogether in 1689). About thirty years after his death (c. 1440), Bishop Angus I was succeeded as bishop by his son Bishop Angus II.

Earl Alexander MacDonald continued his father’s struggle against the Duke of Albany, and thus supported James I in the re-taking of power from his uncle in 1425. By 1428, however, King James asserted Crown rule over the far too independent MacDonalds—he summoned the northern clans to his court at Inverness and arrested many of their chiefs, including Alexander and his son John. When he was released in 1429, Alexander returned with an army and burned Inverness to the ground. He was then defeated after a major battle, and formally submitted to the King at Holyrood Abbey in Edinburgh, then sent back to prison, now at Tantallon Castle on the Firth of Forth. The King and his chief ally in the north, the Earl of Mar, took over much of the MacDonald power. Earl Alexander was released in 1431, but his independent power and his enmity with the King had ended. In fact, when Mar died in 1436, Alexander was easily re-confirmed as Earl of Ross, and restored to Dingwall, Inverness, and even more lands. And in 1437 he was named Justiciar of Scotia, the highest Scottish official for the northern parts of the Kingdom. He died at Dingwall in 1449.

the seal of Alexander MacDonald of Islay

Alexander’s three sons from three marriages divided much of the patrimony. John of Islay, 4th Lord of the Isles and 11th Earl of Ross, was recognised as the ‘MacDomhnaill’, that is, the Chief of Clan Donald; while his brothers founded separate lineages: MacDonald of Sleat and MacDonald of Lochalsh. The latter was in fact the eldest son, Celestine, but Lochalsh was a significant lordship on the mainland, so seemed a good compensation for losing the overall headship of the family. Sleat was on Skye, and the lineage based here, founded by Hugh (or Ùisdean), was also called ‘Clan Donald North’ (we’ll return to them below).

Earl John returned his family’s power centre from Dingwall to the Western Isles; he held his court at Castle Ardtornish in Morvern. Located across the sound from Mull, at the southern opening of the Great Glen, it had been a hub of sea lanes since the time of Somerled, and one of the main MacDonald bases since the mid-fourteenth century. By the sixteenth, it was given by the Crown to the MacLeans; abandoned since the late seventeenth century, today Ardtornish belongs to the Campbells of Argyll.

ruins of Ardtornish Castle

The Lord of the Isles made war on the Scottish king once more in the 1450s, joining the rebellion of the Douglas Clan. He retook Urquhart Castle and the city of Inverness, and kept these when he made peace with James II in 1455. But in 1461, he made a deal with King Edward IV of England, who was annoyed that James III was harbouring the recently deposed Henry VI. The secret ‘Treaty of Ardtornish-Westminster’ of February 1462 stipulated that the MacDonalds would be loyal to England, if Edward would partition Scotland between Clan MacDonald and Clan Douglas—roughly north and south of the Forth of Firth. The Earl’s forces advanced under leadership of his illegitimate son Angus Og. But soon backed down. In about 1475, the King of England revealed this secret treaty of 1462 to the King of Scots, so the Lord of the Isles was summoned to the Scottish Parliament. He failed to appear, and was declared forfeit of this titles. He made peace with the King in 1476, but lost the earldom of Ross and the lordships of Skye and Kintyre, but kept the Outer Hebrides. John’s son Angus revolted, ejected his father from the clan and started a civil war. Early in the 1480s, Angus defeated his father off the coast of Mull—a place still called Bloody Bay.

Angus MacDonald solidified his hold on power by marrying the daughter of the first Earl of Argyll, Colin Campbell. He was murdered, however, by his Irish harper in 1490. His father John tried to take over the Lordship of the Isles by giving that title to his nephew Alexander of Lochalsh. He tried also to retake the Earldom of Ross, but was defeated by the Mackenzies at the Battle of the Park (c1491), west of Dingwall. In 1493, King James IV formally ended the independence of the Lordship of the Isles, by assuming the title for the Crown directly. The title is still given to the heir to the throne—so today William, Prince of Wales, is also the Lord of the Isles. Meanwhile, the earldom of Ross was now used as a royal dukedom for various younger sons of Stuart kings. In 1540, James V formally annexed Islay and the other islands of the Hebrides to the Crown of Scotland. John MacDonald spent the rest of his life a pensioner of the Crown in the Lowlands (dying in Dundee in 1503). The late Angus’s son, Donald (Domhnall Dubh), had been taken by his mother’s family, the Campbells of Argyll, and held as a prisoner for most of his life. He was released in 1543 and led a brief revolt versus the Earl of Arran, Regent of Scotland, with the support of Henry VIII, but he died in 1545 in Drogheda, Ireland. The main line of Clan Donald came to an end.

The leadership of Clan MacDonald passed to the line of Hugh of Sleat (pronounced ‘Slate’). Sleat is the peninsula that forms the southern ‘arm’ of the Isle of Skye; it takes its name from sléttr, Norse for ‘smooth/even’, and this area is indeed flat and more fertile than the rest of the island. Their seat was at Dunscaith Castle. This castle (‘fortress of shadows’) was named for an ancient warrior maiden, Scáthach (‘the shadow’), from Irish mythology. Built just offshore, it was held by the MacDonalds by the fourteenth century but fought over with the rival Macleans. This branch was confirmed in possessions on Skye by the Scottish king in 1476 as the overall lordship of the Isles was crumbling. Hugh’s son Donald Gallach was murdered in 1506—in a violent clash that involved his brothers contesting the succession. He was succeeded by his brother Gilleasbaig Dubh—who had a long career as a pirate and was also murdered, in 1520.

Dunscaith

Much of the sixteenth-century history of Clan MacDonald of Sleat was an unending bloody rivalry with the MacLeods over control of Skye and Lewis, or feuds with other branches of the MacDonalds (which also developed into rivalries between Protestant and Catholic—for example the Clanranald line on South Uist were Catholic). Clan chiefs led piratical raids on neighbouring islands, or mercenary ventures to Ireland. The Scottish royal government was powerless to maintain order, but little by little the more loyal Clan Campbell became dominant in the west of Scotland. One by one the MacDonald chiefs submitted to the monarch and accepted legal charters of ownership over their land. The rivalry with the Campbells was re-activated in the Civil Wars of the 1640s when the MacDonalds supported the Crown and aggressively pursued the Convenanter Campbells. The tables were then turned with the loyal Campbells attacking the rebellious MacDonalds in the 1690s, notably at Glencoe. Naturally, the MacDonalds were therefore Jacobites in the eighteenth century, and on and on and on…

The Chief of MacDonald of Sleat—who was also, though not really recognised at the time, Chief of all of Clan Donald—continued to reside on Skye. Dunscaith Castle was abandoned to ruin in the early seventeenth century and they moved to Duntulm, at the other end of Skye on the northern peninsula, Trotternish. This castle was also from the fourteenth century, and was now expanded, but also abandoned in the mid-eighteenth century for a nearby modern house, Monkstadt.

Duntulm, Skye

Donald Gorm (‘Blue Donald’) succeeded as 8th Chief in 1616 and was created Baronet, of Sleat, in 1625. He was a Royalist who fought for Charles I, and died in 1643. The 4th Baronet, Sir Donald, was a Jacobite, and was created ‘Lord Sleat’ in 1716 (it is considered to be in the ‘Jacobite Peerage’, so legally never existed within Great Britain). This branch was the only one that did not later support the Jacobite uprising of 1745, so they kept their lands, while others had their estates confiscated. They were eventually rewarded: in 1776, the 9th Baronet (or 6th Lord Sleat) was created Baron MacDonald, of Slate, in County Antrim, in the Peerage of Ireland.

Alexander, 1st Baron MacDonald

In 1814, the MacDonalds of Sleat added the surname Bosville, following a marriage with the heiress of estates in Yorkshire, including Thorpe Hall. The 3rd Baron, Godfrey, married Louisa, an illegitimate daughter of the Duke of Gloucester (George III’s brother), but their eldest son was born before the marriage. So the Bosville lands passed to the eldest son, while the second son received the baronial title and lands on Skye. In 1910 the elder son recognised retrospectively as capable by Scottish law of inheriting the baronetcy (and maybe, though purely hypothetically, the Jacobite title of Lord Sleat?). So today the head of Clan MacDonald of Sleat is the 17th Baronet, based at Thorpe Hall in Yorkshire, while the head of Clan Donald overall is the 8th Baron MacDonald, based on Skye.

In 1947, Alexander, 7th Baron MacDonald, was formally recognised by Lord Lyon as the High Chief of Clan Donald, or ‘Chief of Name and Arms of MacDonald—and in a sense the ‘Prince’ of the House of Somerled. He was further recognised by the Crown through his appointment at Lord Lieutenant of Inverness-shire in 1952. The 7th Baron was succeeded in 1970 by his son Godfrey. Until the 1920s, this branch of the family was based at Armadale Castle, on the southeast side of Skye, where the ferry comes in from Mallaig on the mainland. The mansion was built in the 1790s and given an extravagant neo-gothic tower in the early nineteenth century. Abandoned in 1925, it is now a ruin, but the gardens are maintained and are host to the Clan Donald Centre and the Museum of the Isles. The 8th Baron had sold this estate to a family trust in 1972, and moved his family to Kinloch Lodge, a small whitewashed former farmhouse and later hunting lodge, a few miles up the coast. It is run today as a luxury hotel. The 8th Baron MacDonald, Chief of Clan Donald, worked in local government in Scotland in the 1970s-80s. His ‘crown prince’ is his son Hugo (b. 1982).

Armadale Castle
Kinloch Lodge

There were, and are, many junior branches of Clan Donald, the heirs of Somerled, Lord of the Isles. Of these, two stand out in history and were given noble titles: MacDonnell of the Glens in Ireland, and MacDonald of Clanranald in Scotland.

In the sixteenth century, the head of the Irish branch (‘Clan Donald of the South’) was also the Laird of Dunyveg (see above), retaining the familial link across the sea with Islay. They were also called MacDonnell of ‘the Glens’, the nine valleys in the northernmost part of County Antrim, with their seat in Glenarm (one of the nine), which they had inherited in the late fourteenth century. Many members of this branch migrated to Ireland in the 1520s-30s, causing unrest in an already unsettled area. They were encouraged to move by James V, who delighted in unsettling the regime of his uncle Henry VIII; but were checked by English forces in a pitched battle in 1539 at Belahoe (Ballyhoe), County Meath.

The 6th Laird of Dunyveg’s younger brother, ‘Sorley Boy’ (Somhairle Buidhe, or ‘Somerled the Blonde’) MacDonnell, became one of the greatest warrior chieftains of the north of Ireland in the latter half of the sixteenth century. In 1559, he defeated a family who had long dominated the northern coast of Ulster, the MacQuillans, and took their stronghold, Dunluce, as his own. Dunluce Castle had been built on a great rock jutting out into the sea in the thirteenth century. Sorley Boy also took over their title, Lord of the Route—the name for this coastline. Dunluce was abandoned by the family in the 1690s and fell apart, as the family had shifted their seat to Glenarm Castle in the 1630s.

Dunluce Castle, County Antrim, Northern Ireland

The 1560s-80s was a time of constant conflict with the English crown, or with the other powerful lords of Ulster, the O’Neills and the O’Donnells (see here for some of the turbulent history of the O’Neills). But marriage alliances were forged with both of these: Sorley Boy, Lord of the Route, married Mary O’Neill, daughter of the Earl of Tyrone, while her half-brother (and rebel leader) Shane O’Neill married a MacDonnell niece, Catherine. Catherine’s sister married Hugh O’Donnell, King of Tyrconnell—so it was all in the family. Eventually, Sorley Boy made formal submission to Queen Elizabeth in 1586 and was re-granted his lands as fiefs of the Crown. He died in 1590 and was buried in the family necropolis at Bonamargy Friary near Ballycastle, on the bit of the coast of Antrim closest to Scotland.

Sorley Boy had a number of nephews who were now both lords of the Glens and of the Route. They also continued to maintain a presence across the strait in Kintyre, so were interestingly both Scottish and Irish. After 1615, however, they were deprived of their Scottish lands by the Campbells acting on behalf of James VI. The senior line died out in 1626, so Sorley’s son, Ranald (or Randal) MacSorley MacDonnell, succeeded as the ‘Lord of the Route and the Glens’. He was—after the ‘Flight of the Earls’ of 1607, in which most of the senior Irish chiefs fled abroad rather than submit to English rule—the seniormost Gaelic nobleman in Ulster. His willingness to submit to James VI of Scotland, now James I of England, got him an appointment on the Privy Council of Ireland and the post of Lord Lieutenant of Antrim in 1618, with the new title, Viscount Dunluce. In 1620, he was created Earl of Antrim. Yet he remained a Catholic in this era of the Protestant plantations of Ulster.

His son, the 2nd Earl of Antrim, also called Randal MacDonnell, was a Royalist, and a regular attendee of the Stuart court in London. His wife, the widow of the royal favourite the Duke of Buckingham, was herself a favourite of the Queen, so Antrim’s standing was high. As tensions rose against Charles I in the late 1630s, he proposed an invasion of southwest Scotland using his (Catholic) Irish tenants against (Protestant) Scots (and hoping to regain his family’s lost lands in Kintyre). This invasion never materialised, but did further damage the reputation of Charles I in Scotland. His support for the Crown in the next Irish phase of the Civil Wars earned him the even higher title of Marquess of Antrim, 1645—but he was later tried for suspected collusion with the Cromwellian regime.

The Marquess had no sons, so this title became extinct in 1682. The earldom of Antrim, however, continued to his brother and his descendants into the eighteenth century, and was recreated in 1785 for the 6th Earl with a special clause allowing female succession. Antrim was then again a marquisate briefly from 1789 to 1791. Thereafter the earldom passed into the Kerr family of Lothian, who took the name MacDonnell. Today they are represented by the 10th Earl of Antrim, and their seat is still Glenarm Castle in County Antrim. They also maintained a grand townhouse in Merrion Square in Dublin, Antrim House, but it was torn down in the 1930s.

Glenarm Castle, Antrim
a sketch of Antrim House, Dublin

Back in Scotland, the line known as Clanranald (founded by Ranald, 2nd son of Iain, Lord of the Isles, above), continued to maintain the original lands of the MacDonalds in the Western Isles. Their main seat was Castle Tioram, on the mainland in the district of Lochaber. But several chiefs were buried at Howmore on South Uist (one of the Outer Hebrides), and not far away was the birthplace of another famous member of this branch of the family, Flora MacDonald (of ‘Skye Boat Song’ fame). A later seat was also on South Uist, Ormacleit, built in the early eighteenth century but destroyed soon after the Fifteen, and the seat moved to Nunton (Baile nan Cailleach, ‘settlement of the nuns’), on Benbecula, the smaller island between North and South Uist, from which Bonnie Prince Charlie had to be smuggled, ‘over the sea to Skye’.

Flora Macdonald (by Ramsay, 1749)
Tioram Castle
Ormacleit Castle

In the early seventeenth century, Donald, 11th Chief of Clanranald, was the first to try to settle affairs with the Scottish crown and end a century of feuds and piracy. He met royal commissioners on Mull and agreed to submit to rule of law in return for debt relief. His son the 12th Chief ‘ruled’ for fifty years and was a chief supporter of the Royalist cause in the Highlands in the 1640s. But like the others, their royalism translated into Jacobitism in the eighteenth century: the 14th Chief (Allan) died in the Fifteen after being mortally wounded at Sheriffmuir. The 15th Chief, Ranald, was created ‘Lord of Clanranald’ by the Old Pretender in 1716—he survived and died unmarried in Paris in 1725. The clan lands were confiscated, but restored to his cousin and heir, the 16th Chief, Donald, of the Benbecula line. The 17th Chief did not support Bonnie Prince Charlie in the Forty-Five, but his son (and eventually the 18th Chief) did: this Ranald was one of the first to join the rebellion and raised significant troops at Culloden, after which he too escaped to France, and died there in 1776.

A clansman from Clanranald

Another MacDonald worth mentioning here, in the context of late eighteenth-century France, is Jacques-Etienne MacDonald, whose father Neil MacEachen MacDonald, had been an early supporter of Bonnie Prince Charlies and received him at his home on South Uist in 1745 after Culloden, and helped him escape to France. Jacques-Etienne was born and raised in France, and became a Marshal of France under Napoleon and Duc de Tarente (both in 1809), in recognition of his conquest of the Kingdom of Naples. But it is unclear whether the Marshal MacDonald was in fact a MacDonald—several sources say the family MacEachen were a line of Clan Maclean. In any case, his story will feature in a separate blog with the other Irish curiosity in French history, the Duc de Magenta, Patrice de MacMahon, President of France in the Third Republic.

By the end of the eighteenth century, poverty in the Highlands and oppression towards Catholics, convinced many hundreds of members of this clan to emigrate to Canada (Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island). The chiefs by this point were little help, as they—like other aristocrats—were keen to clear the people off their lands to make them more profitable for sheep. Ranald George, 20th Chief of Clanranald, was head of the clan for much of the 19th century. He married the daughter of an earl from the southwest of England, and was the same year elected MP for a borough in Devon (1812 to 1824). He sold off most of his Scottish estates, except the now ruined castle of Tioram. So his interests were clearly elsewhere. He was even nearly replaced as Clan Chief by the head of Clan Glengarry, Alexander MacDonnell (see next). He died in London in 1873 and was succeeded by his son Reginald, an admiral in the British Navy and Commander-in-Chief of the East Indies Station. The main line ended in 1944 with the death of the 23rd Chief, and passed to cadets of the Boisdale line: the 24th Chief, Ranald MacDonald, was recognised by the Lord Lyon in 1956 (and is the 10th Lord of Clanranald in the Jacobite Peerage).

Of the other clans that received a noble title (beyond ‘chief’), there were also the MacDonalds of Glengarry. Their chieftain was at one point one of the greatest landowners in the Highlands. Alastair Dubh, 11th Chief of Glengarry, was one of the leaders of the Jacobite rebellion of The Fifteen, and was created ‘Lord MacDonell’, 1716, by the Old Pretender. They took part in The Forty-Five as well, with the Glengarry Regiment being the largest contingent at the Battle of Culloden. After this, their lands were mostly confiscated, and the seat, Invergarry Castle, destroyed by government troops.

Invergarry Castle

One of the most colourful men of the early nineteenth century in Scotland was the 15th Chief, Alexander (or Alasdair in Scots), the 5th Lord MacDonell in the Jacobite Peerage, who had tried to unseat the Chief of Clanranald (above) in 1824. He was a flamboyant character who always dressed in traditional kilt and maintained old traditions of always being accompanied and served by an entourage, always with a piper in tow. He attended the coronation of George IV in Highland dress and was said to have popularised that style all over Britain and stimulated the imagination of Sir Walter Scott. Yet traditionalist as he was, he too was equally guilty of his part in the Clearances, resulting in a mass exodus to Canada, Australia and New Zealand.

Alasdair MacDonell of Glengarry

Indeed, the head of this branch today, the 24th Chief of Glengarry (or 13th Lord MacDonell) lives in Vancouver. Today there are MacDonalds all over the world—one of these who can come to prominence in recent years, and certainly in the world of dukes and princes, is Mary Donaldson, Queen of Denmark since January 2024. So in a sense, the Viking blood of Somerled has gone home to rule…

the Viking Queen–Mary Donaldson, in a photo from 2013 when he husband was still Crown Prince Frederik of Denmark

Kinsky Princes: From Bohemian Forests to Viennese Palaces

Once upon a time, in a far-off forest in Bohemia, a princess was attacked by a ferocious wolf. Her attendant bravely fought off the wild beast, and in gratitude, the princess ennobled her hero and granted him a coat-of-arms depicting the bold swipe of wolf’s claws on a blood-red field (some modern descriptors call these boar’s teeth). Centuries later, his purported descendants, the Kinskys, would rise to the ranks of princes themselves, and by the 19th century were amongst the richest noble houses in the entire Austro-Hungarian monarchy.

Kinsky Arms

The Kinsky family emerged from legend into history in the early 13th century with the possession of an estate in northwest Bohemia around the village of Vchynice, from which they took their name. This is just outside the town of Lovosice on the great river Elbe as it flows north towards the mountains separating Bohemia from Saxony. Their lands were downriver from the estates that formed the core of another Czech house that survived the great purge of the native nobility by the Habsburgs in the 1620s, the Lobkowitz family, seen in a previous blog post. By the 14th century, the owners of Vchynice had taken it as their surname, and eventually dropped the first letter to be instead Chynsky (or ‘Chinitz’ in Latin sources), and added z (‘of’) Vchynic, or von Wchinitz in German. Today the family name in Czech is spelled Kinští, but they are commonly known in other European languages including English as Kinsky. They are not, it should be noted, related in any way to the famous family of actors descended from Klaus Kinski, whose original name was Nakszynski and who emigrated from northern Poland to Germany.

The family from Vchynice gained more lands and took on roles as royal officials in towns and forests in the Kingdom of Bohemia. Jan Vchynsky z Vchynice (d. 1590) was Burggraf (administrator of a royal castle) of Karlštejn, the famous castle built by Emperor Charles IV in the 1340s. His son Radislav (d. 1619) added greatly to his family’s landholdings (though Vchynice itself had been sold in the 1540s) and to its prestige. He was guardian of the orphaned sons of the noble Tetauer of Tetova family, and, noticing the similarity of their coat of arms, decided to claim kinship as well as their noble status (and, in good early modern practice, forged some documents as ‘evidence’), adding the name ‘Tetova’ to his own (c. 1596). Tetova, or Tettau in German, was an old fief in Lusatia, a province for centuries part of the Bohemian Crown, but lost to Saxony in the 1630s (today the town is just across the border, in the Province of Brandenburg). The von Tettau family continued on for centuries, active in Brandenburg and then Prussian court and military service—both families continue to use the same coat of arms, and many genealogies still say one family is an ‘offshoot’ of the other. And maybe they are.

The newly rebranded Radislav Kinsky z Vcynhic a Tetova (or Wchinitz und Tettau in German) was favoured by Emperor Rudolf II, King of Bohemia, and in 1611 was appointed Master of the Court of Bohemia, and given a seat in Bohemian Diet with the rank of ‘lord’ (pán) for himself and his family. His nephews, Radislav, Oldřich and Vilém were all actively involved in the great uprising of the Protestant Bohemian nobility against Habsburg rule in 1618—and the famous ‘defenestration of Prague’ of May 23rd. When this uprising was crushed after the Battle of White Mountain in 1620, Radislav fled, and Oldřich had his lands confiscated, like so many members of the old Czech nobility, soon replaced by loyal Austrian nobles. Somehow Vilém had sufficiently ‘acted obscurely’ during the revolt, and managed not only to hold on to the family estates, but was promoted in rank to ‘Count Kinsky’ in 1628. This was mostly due to his association with rising Imperial warlord, Albrecht von Wallenstein (or in Czech, z Valdštejna)—his wife’s brother’s wife was Wallenstein’s wife’s sister, if you can follow that (or his brother-in-law was also brother-in-law of Wallenstein). At some point in the early 1630s, Count Kinsky was living in exile in Dresden in Saxony, and tried to get Wallenstein to switch allegiances and join the Protestant side of the Thirty Years War—this did not happen, but they remained close, and were both assassinated by agents of the Emperor who feared the rising independent strength of his own general, at Cheb (Eger) in February 1634. One of his estates that was confiscated was the mighty castle of Teplice (Teplitz) in the mountains of the northwest—it had only been acquired by the family in 1585, but from here on was one of the principal residence of the princely Clary-Aldringen family (so will properly be looked at for that family).

Villem, 1st Count Kinsky

The youngest of all those brothers, Jan Oktavián, in the years before the uprising, had been chamberlain of Emperor Matthias (successor of Rudolf II), and obtained the castle and estate of Chlumec nad Cidlinou, in 1611. This castle on the river Cidlina is northeast of Prague, built in the 15th century and expanded by the Pernštejn family in the 16th. It was the Kinsky seat until a new castle was built in 1721-23 just outside the town, Karlova Koruna (see below). The older castle fell into disrepair and was finally town down in the 1960s.

the old castle at Chlumec, in 1640

Jan Oktavián was pardoned after the events of 1618-20, and consolidated the landholdings of all the branches over the next several decades, notably the castle of Česká Kamenice in the farthest northern corner of Bohemia. Built in the 1530s by the Vartemberks, it had been purchased by Radislav Kinsky, and stayed in the family until 1945. Since then it has been used as housing for the state forestry administration.

Česká Kamenice

All the current Kinskys descend from Count Jan Oktavián. He took on his father’s office of Master of the Court from 1646—an office passed to his two sons then two grandsons before it was finally confirmed as hereditary by Maria Theresa in 1743. The Kinsky Masters of the Court (Hofmeister in German, Hofmistr in Czech) would thus perform a key role when any Habsburg visited Bohemia, but most importantly at their coronations in Prague. Jan Oktavián was confirmed in his rank of count in 1676 and died three years later.

His son Count František Oldřich (Franz Ulrich) (d. 1699) was thus Master of the Court and also High Chancellor of Bohemia, 1683, and a member of the Emperor’s privy council from 1689. In the 1690s he was one of the leading members of the Imperial court and led important negotiations with the Ottomans. Two other Kinskys held the highest judiciary office in the Kingdom of Bohemia: František Oldřich’s brother Václav Norbert (d. 1719), in 1705-1711, and the latter’s son, František Ferdinand (d. 1741), 1723-36. The latter was a diplomat and organised the election in Frankfurt of the Archduke Charles of Austria as Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI in 1712.

Count František Oldřich Kinsky
Count František Ferdinand Kinsky

Count František Ferdinand built a new family residence at Chlumec, Karlova Koruna Castle in the early 1720s: named ‘Charles’ Crown’, in honour of the coronation of Emperor as King of Bohemia. This castle, a baroque pleasure palace with a unique floorplan, on a small hill overlooking a park, is still in amazing shape, and was restored to the Kinsky family in 1990 following the period of Communist rule. The nearby hexagonal Chapel of the Annunciation (later of St John the Baptist) became the family sepulchre for many years.

Karlova Koruna, Chlumec, in 1809
amazing floorplan of Karlova Koruna

Count František Ferdinand also acquired the Castle of Eckartsau in Lower Austria, 1720, an ancient medieval castle which he remodelled as a in Baroque style. Located on the Danube between Vienna and Pressburg (today’s Bratislava), it made a convenient stopping point for the Imperial family, so Emperor Francis I purchased it in 1760—it was thus only a Kinsky property for 40 years—it later became famous for hosting the last court of Austria-Hungary in 1917-18, and was the place of abdication for the last emperor, Charles I, in November 1918.

Schloss Eckartsau in Austria

František Ferdinand had three sons, all high-ranking military commanders in the second half of the 18th century. His second son Joseph in particular was Commander of the Army of Hungary in 1787, then of the entire Habsburg army in 1788. His younger brother Franz Joseph became Director of the Theresian Military Academy in Vienna, founder of an army cadet school in Prague, and all-round pedagogical wonder of his century. The eldest, Leopold Ferdinand married a Liechtenstein princess and founded the senior line of the Kinskys, the Chlumsky Branch. There are still several Kinsky counts around descended from this line, but they are not princes.

Count Franz Joseph Kinsky

It was Václav Norbert’s second son, Štepán Vilém (Stephan Wilhelm) (1679-1749) who promoted his branch of the family into the highest ranks of the Habsburg nobility. He served Emperor Charles VI as a diplomat—St Petersburg and Versailles—and was Grand Marshal of Bohemia, 1733, and Grand Master of the Court. In 1746, the Emperor’s grateful daughter and successor, Maria Theresa, as Queen of Bohemia, created him Prince Kinsky von Wchinitz und Tettau; a year later, he was also created Prince of the Empire by Maria Theresa’s husband, Francis Stephen of Lorraine, recently elected as Emperor Francis I. Unlike most princes of the Empire, the Kinskys did not hold an immediate fief, so the title was attached to the person, and was only held by the senior male (so other children were count/countess). It did not bring the family a vote or a seat in the Imperial Diet.

Arms of Stephan Wilhelm, 1st Prince Kinsky, in a place of honour on the ceiling in Prague Castle

When the Kinsky estates were divided, the first Prince Kinsky received as his share the castles at Česká Kamenice (see above) and Choceň. Choceň (Chotzen) was located in the Pardubice region. It was a market town with a castle built in the 1560s and rebuilt in the 18th century, by which point it was in Kinsky hands. The family completely rebuilt it after a fire in 1829, and used it as a favoured summer residence in the next century. Since 1945 it has housed an art school and a history and archaeology museum.

Choceň Castle

Franz Joseph, 2nd Prince Kinsky, succeeded his father in 1749, but he died in 1752 at age 26 with no male heir, so the succession passed to a first cousin. The first Prince’s younger brother, Philipp Joseph, had also been a diplomat, notably the Imperial envoy to London, 1728 to 1736. He then served, like so many of his forebears, as High Chancellor of Bohemia, 1738, and one of the close advisors to Empress Maria Theresa in the first years of her reign. But he too died relatively young, in 1749, meaning that the succession went instead to his son, Franz de Paula Ulrich. A younger son, Johann Joseph, became an entrepreneur on his estates—glass and textiles—and founded another line of Kinsky counts.

Count Philipp Joseph Kinsky
Franz de Paula Ulrich, 3rd Prince Kinsky

The 3rd Prince Kinsky (1726-1792) had a long military career, rising to the rank of General of Artillery in 1767, Director-General of the Austrian Artillery, 1772, then Field Marshal, 1778. He purchased grand residences in two of the Habsburg capitals: Prague and Vienna. The Kinsky Palace in Prague, located right on the Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) in the heart of the historic city, had initially been built in the 1750s by the Golz family, then purchased by the Kinskys in 1768. A distinctive pink and white rococo palace, it also had spaces for shops on the ground floor that opened up onto the square: at the end of the 19th century, Franz Kafka’s father had a haberdasher’s shop here, and young Franz himself went to secondary school located on a higher floor. In the 1920s-30s it served as the Polish Legation to Czechoslovakia, and since 1949 has been part of the National Gallery.

Kinsky Palace, Prague

On the other side of the Vltava River that flows through Prague, the Kinskys built a Summer House, in about 1830, and a Romantic garden with rare trees and waterfalls. Since 1901 the Summer House has housed a museum of ethnography.

Kinsky Summer Palace, Prague

Meanwhile, in Vienna, Prince Kinsky purchased in 1784 a palace built by the Daun family in 1713 on the northwest edge of the old city close to the University, facing onto a large square called the Freyung. In the 20th century, the Palais Kinsky passed out of the family to a daughter who married an Argentine, so it became the Argentine Embassy in the 1960s. Sold by the family in 1987, it was restored and re-opened in the 1990s as an auction house and a place for fancy receptions—its lower levels house shops and restaurants.

Kinsky Palais, Vienna

The princely line of the Kinskys in the later 18th and early 19th centuries was quite limited in terms of the number of sons, meaning that the family’s wealth did not need to be divided amongst heirs. Like many of the great aristocrats in Vienna in this period they were great patrons of music: Joseph, 4th Prince Kinsky (d. 1798) was a patron of the Czech musician Pavel Wranitzky—who is not very famous, but has wonderfully bold music in the heroic vein of late Haydn—while the 5th Prince, Ferdinand (d. 1812), was an important patron of Beethoven from 1809—one of the aristocratic trio that included Archduke Rudolf and Prince Josef František von Lobkowitz—the three paid him a pension to enable him to stay permanently in Vienna and not seek employment elsewhere. But he soon died; his widow continued the pension, and was thanked by means of a song, An die Hoffnung (‘to hope’).

Joseph, 4th Prince Kinsky
Ferdinand, 5th Prince Kinsky

Another junior branch was created by Ferdinand’s younger brother, Count Franz de Paula. The most prominent member of this line was his daughter, Franziska, who became Princess-Consort of Liechtenstein as wife of Prince Aloys II (r 1836-58), and then regent of the principality for her son, 1858-60.

Franziska Kinsky, Princess of Liechtenstein

Rudolf, the 6th Prince (d. 1836), was part of the Czech national revival movement that took hold of much of the Bohemian elite society in the 1820s—in particular he supported the creation of a National Museum in Prague. Though mostly still based at Choceň Castle, in 1828, he also added to his family’s estates through the purchase of Heřmanův Městec (Hermannstädtel in German), a town east of Prague towards the hills of Moravia. He improved the town, built and orphanage and hospital, and extended the old castle and developed its English style gardens. Since the 1950s, this castle has housed a retirement home.

Rudolf, 6th Prince Kinsky

The 4th, 5th and 6th princes all died relatively young, in their 30s-40s; in contrast, the 7th Prince Kinsky, Ferdinand Bonaventura (d. 1904), lived until he was 70. He sat as a hereditary member of the Austrian House of Lords, but was not very political. Instead, he developed his estates in Bohemia, notably its industries, sugar and beer. He had three sons and a daughter, Elisabeth, whose daughter once again connected this family to the House of Liechtenstein: Georgina von Wilczek was Princess-Consort of Liechtenstein from 1938 to 1989.

Ferdinand, 7th Prince Kinsky.

The eldest son, Karl, 8th Prince Kinsky von Wchinitz und Tettau (d. 1919), only outlived his father by 15 years. As heir, he had long made his name as one of the premier equestrians in Europe. In particular, he was passionate about horseracing in England. In 1883, he himself rode his prize-winning horse (Zoedone) to victory at the Grand National.

Karl, 8th Prince Kinsky

Horses had in fact been an important aspect of the Kinsky dynastic identity for centuries. A Kinsky was put in charge of the Emperor Charles VI’s newly commissioned stud farm in eastern Bohemia in 1723, to breed horses specifically for elite cavalry units. These were the famous ‘Kinsky Horses’, with a distinctive gold colour and renowned stamina. Count Oktavián, from one of the junior branches, was one of Europe’s most successful breeders in the mid-nineteenth century, and introduced English style racing to the Austro-Hungarian monarchy in 1874—an event still held today (the Grand Pardubice Steeplechase).

a Kinsky Horse

The 8th Prince managed to stay in England for many years by serving in a diplomatic post, as Austrian attaché to Great Britain. He became very close, maybe too close, to Lady Randolph Churchill (the American-born Jennie Jerome). When he was recalled to Austria-Hungary due to the outbreak of World War One, he accepted a military command but arranged it so he would fight only on the Eastern Front against Russia, and never against Britain. In December 1918, noble status was abolished shortly after the declaration of the independent republic of Czechoslovakia; then in April 1919, titles of nobility were abolished for Austria too. In December that same year the 8th Prince died, and was succeeded by his brother, Rudolf, the 9th Prince, who died in 1930 leaving five daughters.

The princely title thus went to his nephew Ulrich (Oldřich). This prince’s father, Count Ferdinand Vincenz (d. 1916), had served in the last decade of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy as Master of the Horse for Emperor Franz Josef. He lived at Moravský Krumlov, inherited from a maternal uncle, and Horažd’ovice. The former, in southern Moravia, is a huge castle from the 13th century, built by the Lipá noble family and held until 1620—it was then held by the Liechtensteins until passed to Prince Kinsky in 1908 (so it mostly belongs in their story). Today the castle belongs to the town and is slowly being restored back to its former glory. Horažd’ovice Castle is a more modest building, in the far west of Bohemia, bought by Prince Kinsky in 1843. A 13th-century Gothic castle was replaced in the 15th century by the Švihovský family, who, as we’ve seen with so many others, had their lands confiscated in 1620. The Kinskys developed local industries here, notably pearl oyster farming. It too belongs to its town and houses a variety of civic spaces: a city museum, gallery, information centre, youth centre, library and a restaurant too!

Moravský Krumlov
Horažd’ovice Castle, and its pizzeria

Prince Ulrich was born at Choceň. Like so many of his ancestors, he did not have a long life (1893-1938), but in his final years he impacted the future of the family through his strong support of the Sudenten German Party which advocated annexation of much of western and northern Bohemia by Nazi Germany, a fateful decision that heavily impacted the future of his dynasty.

Ulrich, 10th Prince Kinsky

His son Franz Ulrich, 11th Prince Kinsky (1936-2009), emigrated as a child with his mother to Argentina, where he spent most of his life. At the end of the Second World War, his family’s lands were confiscated due to his father’s political stance, first by the restored republic, then by the Communist regime. They were not restored following the ‘Velvet Revolution’ of the 1990s, as many estates were to old Czech noble families. In 2003, many (over 150) lawsuits were filed versus the Czech state, pressing claims totalling over 13 billion Euros. The Prince argued that he was only two in 1940, and that his mother’s family, Bussche-Haddenhausen, were strongly anti-Nazi.

Franz Ulrich, 11th Prince Kinsky

His son, Karel Maximilian (‘Charlie’ or ‘Carlos’), 12th Prince Kinsky (b. 1967, in Buenos Aires), succeeded in 2009 and renewed the application to the Czech government for restitution of lands in 2012, and the European courts upheld his claim that his father (the child in the 1940s) had not been given a fair trial. It remains pending. He is married and has an heir, Wenzel (Václav) Ferdinand (b. 2002).

Yet another Liechtenstein connection was made by the 11th Prince’s first cousin, Countess Marie Kinská, who in 1967 married the Hereditary Prince Hans Adam II, who has reigned since 1989. The Princess of Liechtenstein died in 2021.

Marie Kinska, Princess of Lichtenstein

Today there remain three main lines of the House of Kinsky: the princely branch (nominally based) at Choceň and two branches of counts, at Kostelec and Chlumec. Unlike the princely line, these branches were more firmly identified with Czech nationalism in the 1930s, and although they also had their castles and estates appropriated by the Communist regime after 1945, they were recovered in the 1990s.

The Kostelec branch was founded by a second son of the 5th Prince Kinsky at the end of the 18th century. The Castle Kostelec on the Orlice river is in northeast Bohemia, a ‘fortified church’ built in the early 14th century then held as a castle by various families until purchased by Josef Kinsky in 1796. A newer castle was built here by this branch of the Kinskys in about 1830, in neoclassical style. The two buildings were restored to the Kinskys in the 1990s, and house a gallery and town history museum.

Kostelec Castle

The Chlumec (or Chlumsky) branch, as seen above, is actually the senior line, formed by the elder brother of the 1st Prince at the start of the 18th century. One of these, Count Zdenko Radslav Kinsky (d. 1975), was the instigator of the 1938 Declaration of members of the old Czech families proclaiming the inviolability of the territory of the Czech state and protesting any idea of its dismemberment or a takeover by Nazi Germany. His properties were confiscated when this failed and a Nazi protectorate was established in Bohemia. It was returned in 1945, then confiscated again by the Communists in 1948. He emigrated to France and died in Rome.

Count Zdenko Radslav Kinsky

Count Zdenko’s son, Count Václav Norbert (d. 2008), married an Italian heiress and added her surname, dal Borgo, to his own. Late in life he became active in the Order of Malta—no longer crusading knights, but a global Catholic charity—and served as ambassador from the Order (which is based in Rome) to the Republic of Malta, then as Grand Prior of the Order in the Czech Republic, 2002-2004. The Kinsky-Dal Borgo branch reclaimed Chlumec, Karlova Koruna and other castles in the 1990s, and have been avidly restoring them.

Karlova Koruna today

Another member of this cadet branch, Count Christian (d. 2011), married the heiress of a mighty fortress in Austria, Heidenresichstein, in the far north of the country near the border with Bohemia. A moated castle with several towers, it was built in the later twelfth century, and was held by two families—amongst others—for about three centuries each: von Puchheim and Palffy. The latter died out in 1942, and ultimately the inheritance went to the Kinskys, who still own it today.

Heidenresichstein Castle, Austria

Schönburg, Schönberg, Schomberg: Beautiful Princes from Dresden to Dublin

If a beautiful fortress in French-speaking lands gave its name to a dynasty or two of dukes and princes (‘Beaufort’), then attractive castles in German-speaking lands can too. There are certainly a number of castles in Germany and Austria named schön burg, or the similar yet different schön berg, referring to a mountain, not a castle. Given how much noble families liked to build their castles on mountaintops, it is therefore not surprising that there are several von Schönburg or von Schönberg noble families. This blog piece will look at three of them, two from Saxony in east-central Germany, and one from the Rhineland in the west. All three shifted the scene of their activities at different points in their history: one (Schönburg) became princes and migrated to Austria and Bohemia; another (Schönberg) became military leaders in France (as ‘Schomberg’) and married into a dukedom (Hallwin); while a third (spelled either way) moved first to France (and also took on the latter spelling), then to England where they too became dukes. Perhaps even more extraordinarily, this last family also received a second dukedom, and it was the second ducal title ever in the peerage of Ireland—the short-lived dukedom of Leinster (in its first creation).

Schönburg Castle in Saxony (photo Mewes)
Schönburg Castle in the Rhineland (photo Alexander Hoernigk)

This post will be hard to categorise therefore: Germany? Austria? France? England? Ireland? It’s another good example of how truly mobile many of these elite families were in the eras before the divisive forces of nationalism took hold in the nineteenth century. Neither the French nor English Schomburg dukedoms lasted very long, so the only family still extant today are the Schönburg princes in Austria.

All three families traced their origins to the 12th and 13th centuries; but of the three, only the family that ended up as princes were very significant before the late 16th century. The first who obtained top rank however was the Saxon family who ended up as marshals of France and dukes of Hallwin, so we will start there. In the early 13th century, a Saxon knight called Hugo was named Castellan of Rudelsburg, one of the defensive castles of the bishops of Naumburg, whose diocese was in the borderlands between Saxony and Thuringia. It is suggested in some sources that Hugo’s family were a branch of a family long in service to the bishops of Naumburg who took their name from a castle on the other side of the city, high above the River Saale, Schönburg. By the 14th century both of these two families, one called Schönburg and the other Schönberg, had focussed their landholdings further south and east into Saxony. Schönburg Castle itself, long used as the summer residence of the Naumburg bishops was seized by the Electors of Saxony when their diocese was secularised in the Reformation, and it was used as an administrative building for a while, then slowly degenerated. In 1815 it became part of the Prussian province of Saxony (not the Kingdom of Saxony, just next door), and it has been maintained as a romantic ruin ever since.

We’ll return to the Schönburg family, who became much more prominent by the and of the 13th century (and ultimately princes), later. For now, we’ll look at the Schönberg family, who remained fairly minor nobles for quite a while. They moved east into the Margraviate of Meissen, and built a castle, Rothschönberg (‘Red Schönberg’, c. 1300), west of Dresden, the city that eventually became capital of the Electorate (and later kingdom) of Saxony.  Other castles were acquired in this region, like Sachsenburg; and further south towards the mountainous border with the Kingdom of Bohemia, notably Purschenstein (1380) which had been built two centuries earlier to guard the important trade routes coming out of Czech lands. Further east in the still quite heavily Slav-populated Lusatia they acquired the lordship of Pulsnitz (or Połčnica in the original Sorbian).

Rothschönburg Castle (photo Jörg Blobelt)
Purschenstein Castle (photo Norbert Kaiser)

Over the next several centuries these Schönberg lords provided the dukes and electors of Saxony with numerous chamberlains, soldiers and administrators—all the way up to the end of the independent Kingdom of Saxony in 1918. One post held repeatedly by this family from the 16th to the 18th century was ‘Grand Master of Forges, Mines and Forests’ which surely brought them a healthy income as well as prestige. The dynasty also supplied the Church with a number of senior clergy: two bishops of Meissen (1451-76), then two bishops of Naumburg (1480-1517). In the next generation, Nikolaus von Schönberg became Archbishop of Capua in Italy (1520), and a Cardinal (1535)—and notably, a strong supporter of the new ideas of Nicolas Copernicus about the movement of the planets. His brother Anton went even further into the realm of reforms, and became an early leader of the Lutheran reformation in Saxony.

Nikolaus, Cardinal von Schönburg

When the Wars of Religion broke out in this region, Wolf von Schönberg, Lord of Sachsenburg, commanded some of the Saxon armies in the fight against the Catholic armies of the Emperor. He was named Marshal of the Court of Dresden. His eldest son Hans was, like several of his predecessors, Superintendent of the Mines. But his second son, Caspar, travelled to France in about 1560 and lent his sword to the Protestant cause there. For whatever reason, he then converted to Catholicism in 1568, was naturalised as French and named a field marshal in the armies of the King, who sent him on missions to try to reconcile the Catholic cause with the German Protestant princes. Gaspard de Schomberg (as he was now known) also became a favourite of the King’s younger brother, Henry, Duke of Anjou, and accompanied him to Poland in 1574 when he was elected king there. Gaspard had also brought his younger brother, Georg, to the French court, and helped him obtain a position of page in the household of the Queen Mother, Catherine de Medici. Georges also went with Anjou to Poland—and swiftly back when Henry discovered he had become king of France (Henry III) in 1575. Georges de Schomberg then took part in the famous ‘Duel of the Mignons’ in April 1578, in which the King’s beautiful young men did battle, Georges taking the side of the King’s rival, Henri, Duke of Guise. After a good start, Shomberg was stabbed in the heart and died. It was a shocking event and one of those that convinced the people of Paris that the court had become a den of depravity.

a later engraving of the Duel of the Mignons

Meanwhile, Gaspard’s fortunes continued to rise. In 1578 Henry III granted him the County of Nanteuil and its beautiful Renaissance château north of Paris in the province of Valois. It had been the chief residence of the Duke of Guise for two decades, so this was a real sign of the King’s favour (and perhaps remorse over young Georges’ death). The Château de Nanteuil was held by this family until the 1650s, then passed to the Estrées dukes, and in the 18th century to the princes of Condé, Bourbon cousins of the kings of France—sadly it was destroyed during the Revolution.

Nanteuil

The new Count of Nanteuil was evidently not liked by the Holy League (that is, the supporters of the Duke of Guise); so after King Henry III’s death in 1589, Schomberg fled to Saxony. But he soon returned to support the new reign of Henry IV, again using his Protestant connections, and in 1594 was appointed the King’s Superintendent of Finance, a post he held for three years, a crucial time for the first Bourbon king rebuilding the French government after the devastation of the Wars of Religion. Gaspard de Schomberg died in 1599. He had married a French noblewoman and left behind a very French son, Henri de Schomberg.

Just before his father died, Henri also married a French noblewoman, Françoise d’Espinay. She was an important heiress, bringing to the marriage the massive medieval fortress of Durtal, on a rock overlooking the River Loir in Anjou. This castle later passed to the La Rochefoucauld dukes (via the heirs of his daughter Jeanne), and in the 19th century became a hospital, and today a private residence once more. Henri, Count of Nanteuil and Durtal, was also Superintendent of Finance, for Louis XIII (1619-22), then was named Grand Master of the Artillery, 1622, and Marshal of France in 1625. Marshal de Schomberg led royal forces against French Protestants in the years that followed, notably at the Siege of La Rochelle, notably defeating a number of English troops sent by King Charles I under the command of the Duke of Buckingham. In 1630 he led an army across the Alps and captured the important Piedmontese fortress of Pinerolo—long the key to the French strategic position in northern Italy. Back in southern France, he arrested the rebellious duke of Montmorency in 1632, and replaced him as governor of Languedoc. But he died only a month later, so the post was given to his son.

Henri de Schomberg, Marshal of France

This son, Charles, was the first we’ve encountered so far to enter the very highest aristocracy, as Duke of Hallwin. But he wasn’t created duke on his own merits, and in fact he had to share the title with someone else!  Hallwin was a lordship in French Flanders which gave its name to a long line of lords—though how it was spelled in this Dutch/French language border zone was incredibly diverse: Halewijn, Hallewyn, Halluin, Alluyn… One of these lords, Charles, was created Duke of Hallwin and Peer of France in 1587. He and his family will have a separate blog post. The first duke was succeeded by his grandson, Charles II, who died with no heirs in 1598; his sister Anne was allowed to retain the title duchess (unusually for France where dukedoms tended to be males-only fiefs). Duchess Anne first married in 1611, Henri de Nogaret, the son of the Duke of Epernon (one of the great royal favourites of the previous two reigns). He took the title Duke of Hallwin in the name of his wife, but was also sometimes called Duke of Foix-Candale having inherited that estate from his mother. They divorced, and in 1620, Duchess Anne re-married, this time to Charles de Schomberg-Nanteuil. The title was recreated on a different Hallwin fief, Maignelais (still in Flanders). Strangely (or at least as described later by the Duke of Saint Simon who was obsessed with such things), her previous husband was allowed to continue to use the title of Hallwin, and especially its peerage which granted him a seat in the Parlement of Paris. At royal ceremonies, the ex-husband Hallwin was given precedence over current husband Hallwin since dukedoms were ordered by year of creation. But at Parlement, there could only be one person sitting as Duke-Peer of Hallwin, so apparently they admitted whichever arrived first and turned the other away. There were no children from either marriage, so when Henri de Nogaret died in 1639, then Anne d’Hallwin in 1641, the situation was resolved.

Charles de Schomberg, Duke of Hallwin, Marshal of France

Charles de Schomberg, Duke of Hallwin, took over from his father as Governor of Languedoc in 1632, was also created Marshal of France in 1637, after successfully blocking a Spanish invasion in the eastern Pyrenees in the Thirty Years War. He later became Governor of the Three Bishoprics (Metz, Toul and Verdun), in 1645, and at court held the important post of Colonel-General of the Swiss Guard. In 1646 he took a new wife, Marie de Hautefort, the late king Louis XIII’s favourite and confidante, but now exiled for having taken part in an attempted coup against his widow, Anne of Austria. Ever part of the ultra-pious faction as court, Marie drew her husband into more pious circles and later in life they became strong supporters of conversion societies that aimed their efforts towards Calvinists and Jews. The Marshal-Duke died in 1656 without any children, so this part of this story comes to an end.

But not exactly: Marshal Schomberg had supported the career of a younger man in the French army, also called Schomberg. Despite adhering to different religious confessions, and their families having quite different coats of arms (the usual indicator of one noble lineage’s kinship with another), the French seemed to accept that these two German soldiers were from the same house. In fact, the Saxon Schönbergs used a red and green rampant lion on yellow, while these Rhenish Schönburg/Schönbergs using a more complex shield made up of an ‘escarbuncle’ of eight golden rays on silver, quartered with an array of six silver shields on red. The third Schönburg family surveyed here, those who became princes, used a much simpler design of red and white diagonal stripes.

The Rhenish Schönbergs took their name from another castle called Schönburg, this one called ‘in Oberwesel’, the Wesel being a village on the left bank of the Rhine, just one bend upriver from the famous Lorelei rock. Built in the 12th century it was a fief of the Elector-Archbishop of Trier, who ruled much this side of the river. An old family of ministerialis (a type of service nobility in early medieval Germany) was given this fief and took it as their name (in the 1150s). Much later, the castle was destroyed by a devastating French invasion of the region in 1689, and as the resident branch of the family died out in 1719, the fief returned fully to Trier but was seldom used and began to crumble. It would be restored in the 1890s by a wealthy socialite New York family, the Rhinelanders (with a very fitting surname); then after the Second World War it was acquired by the town of Oberwesel, and today it is run as a hotel.

Schönburg on the Rhine (photo Traveler100)

Over the centuries, the family divided into several lines and went into service of either the imperial archbishops (Cologne, Trier, Mainz), or one of the powerful territorial lords, like the Elector Palatine or the Count of Nassau. One branch remained Catholic and was most famously represented by Baron Otto Friedrich von Schönburg, a General Field Marshal for the Catholic League in the Thirty Years War (killed at the Battle of Breitenfeld in 1631). His brother and heir, Johann Karl, was an Imperial councillor and was created Count von Schönburg in the 1630s. He was also Count of Montigny and other places in Luxembourg due to an ancestor’s marriage in the previous century.

General Otto Friedrich von Schönburg

Another branch began at some point to spell the name Schönberg; and were elevated to the rank of count by the early 17th century. Count Meinhard was a soldier in the mercenary Protestant armies of Count Palatine John Casimir in the French Wars of Religion. His son Hans Meinhard continued the link with the Wittelsbach rulers of the Palatinate, first as a diplomat for Elector Frederick IV, being sent to Emperor Rudolf II in Prague and to the Dutch States General to try to hold the peace in a succession crisis of 1609. Then when Frederick IV died, he moved into service of his son Frederick V, who appointed him Master of his Household in 1611. He then made his family’s first connections with the Stuarts in England by travelling to London to arrange the marriage of Princess Elisabeth, daughter of James I, with his master Elector Frederick. While at the English court he met Lady Anne Sutton, daughter of the Baron of Dudley (she’s sometimes called Anne Dudley). They married in 1615, and she soon gave birth to a son, but sadly died immediately after. Hans Meinhard himself died a year later in 1616.

The orphaned child Friedrich was raised by his guardians in Heidelberg, then sent to the Sedan Academy, a proper boarding school for young Calvinist noblemen, then to Leiden University in Holland. In the Thirty Years War, he led Dutch then Swedish troops against the forces of the Catholic League, then moved into French service after 1635 when that Catholic kingdom curiously entered the war on the Protestant side. In 1639, he married his cousin Johanna Elisabetha von Schönberg, which consolidated the succession as she was co-heiress of many of their family properties. They had three sons: Friedrich, Meinhard and Karl. In the 1640s, Count Friedrich once again fought in Dutch armies, then in the 1650s returned to France, where he was promoted to Field Marshal (1652) then Lieutenant-General (1655). As noted above, some sources suggest that his initial introduction to the French army, and his rapid promotion were due to an assumed (or projected?) kinship with Marshal de Schomberg. He too started spelling his name the French way. Their difference in religion didn’t seem to matter.

Friedrich, Count von Schönberg

In the 1660s, the half-English, half-German French commander Frédéric de Schomberg took an even more unusual turn: he led English troops sent by King Charles II to Portugal to help that country regain its independence from Habsburg Spain. He had the support of Louis XIV in this, but since France had *only just* signed a peace treaty with Spain, he officially had to work for the British king. In 1663, he was rewarded by the Portuguese king with the title Count of Mértola and a significant pension. Sources conflict whether this was a ‘for life’ only title, or whether it passed to his descendants (see below). It is also unclear whether the title also included the ancient Moorish castle (mostly a ruin by the 17th century) and estates (very lucrative for their mines), in the far southeastern region of Portugal near the border with Spain. Schomberg even took part in the coup against King Alfonso VI in 1668 led by the Queen and the King’s brother Dom Pedro.

Schomberg was back in France by 1669 when he married for a second time, Suzanne d’Aumale, Dame d’Haucourt, one of the cultured and intellectual women of Parisian salon society known as the précieuses (not flatteringly—people thought their ‘precious’ mannerisms were affected and snobbish). He then set off to war once more, as commander of a French army invading Catalonia, 1674 (this time overtly fighting against Spain), and was created a Marshal of France in 1675. The new Marshal Schomberg then commanded on the northern front against the young Dutch Stadtholder, William III, Prince of Orange, in 1676. He faced him again on the battlefield in the next war in 1684—but the very next year, everything changed.

Schomberg as a Marshal of France

In 1685, Louis XIV revoked the Edict of Nantes (the religious peace brokered so painstakingly by his grandfather Henry IV), and Marshal Schomberg had to make a decision: renounce Protestantism and become a Catholic, or move abroad. Unlike his more ‘amenable’ cousins earlier in the century, this Schomberg remained true to his faith. He first moved to Brandenburg, where many French Huguenots were given asylum, and took up command as a general in the armies of ‘the Great Elector’, Frederick William of Brandenburg. In 1688 he was asked to be second in command in the armies led by his former opponent, William of Orange, as they embarked on the ‘Glorious Revolution’ to save Great Britain from the Catholic absolutist tyranny of King James II. When William then became co-king (with his wife Mary) in 1689, Schomberg was named Master-General of the Ordnance, awarded the Order of the Garter, and in May was created Duke of Schomberg, with subsidiary titles, Marquess of Harwich and Earl of Brentford. He was also given £100,000 to compensate for the lands and revenues he had lost in France (such as the estate of Courbet outside of Paris). This German-French-British duke then died in Ireland, at the moment of victory over the forces of James II at the Battle of the Boyne, 1 July 1690. He was buried in Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin.

Of the 1st Duke of Schomberg’s sons, the eldest, Count Friedrich, served with his father in France and in Portugal, then returned to Germany. In theory he inherited the Portuguese title Count of Mértola, then after his death in 1700, passed it to his daughter, the wife of the Count of Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. The youngest son, Charles, had been named in the creation of the dukedom as heir to the dukedom (perhaps as the second son was already being considered for a dukedom of his own?), so became 2nd Duke of Schomberg in 1690. Charles had moved in military service with his father, as a lieutenant-general in the army of Brandenburg, then in the invasion of England of 1688. During the Nine Years War (1688-97), William III sent him to command French Huguenot troops (in the pay of England—the Schomberg Regiment) in northern Italy, where he was killed at the Battle of Marsaglia, October 1693.

This left the second son, Meinhard. He had accompanied his father on his military mission in Portugal in the 1660s, then back to France where he rose to the rank of maréchal de camp in 1678; he also accompanied his father and brother to England in 1689, and was named a general of the cavalry, commanding a wing of the army of William of Orange at the Battle of the Boyne. In 1691, Meinhard was named Commander-in-Chief while William III was abroad on the continent fighting in the Nine Years War. To raise his profile to help him maintain such a lofty command, in March that year he was created Duke of Leinster (with subsidiary titles Earl of Bangor and Baron of Tara) in the peerage of Ireland—in other words, the title got him a seat in the Parliament in Dublin, but not in London. Two years later, however, he succeeded his younger brother as Duke of Schomberg and thus did get a seat in the English House of Lords. As noted above, the Dukedom of Leinster was only the second dukedom created in the Irish peerage (the other being Ormonde, created for the Butlers in 1661). It would be good to dig into Irish archives to see if any lands were given to the new duke as part of this creation—but it did not survive very long. After he served once more as Commander-in-Chief for an army sent by Queen Anne to invade Spain via Portugal in the War of Spanish Succession—in which he was unsuccessful and disgraced—he died in 1719 and both ducal titles, Schomberg and Leinster—went extinct. Leinster as a dukedom is much more well known in its second creation, in 1766, for the richest family in Ireland, the Fitzgerald earls of Kildare. But that is a different story.

Meinhard Schomberg, Duke of Leinster and 3rd Duke of Schomberg

Before he died, Meinhard Schomberg re-established some of the family links with the Palatinate. After his first wife Barbara Luisa Rizzi died, in 1682 he married a woman called Raugravine Karoline von der Pfalz. The raugrave/raugravine title was given to the second family of the Elector Palatine Charles Louis (eldest son of Frederick V and Princess Elisabeth of England and Scotland), whose second marriage to one of his wife’s ladies-in-waiting, Luise von Degenfeld, was deemed unequal (and possibly bigamous, since he wasn’t quite divorced from his first wife). These children thus had royal blood, but were not legally capable of succeeding to the Electoral throne (or ultimately to the British throne). Karoline bore Schomberg a son, Charles Louis, who used the courtesy title ‘Marquess of Harwich’, but died at age thirty in 1713 before he could succeed to the ducal titles. Of the daughters, a younger daughter, Mary, married a cousin, Christoph von Degenfeld, and their descendants used the surname Degenfeld-Schonburg, which continues today. The oldest daughter, Frederica, Countess of Holderness by marriage, assumed (by some accounts, not by others) the title Countess of Mértola, then passed claims to it on to the Osborne family (dukes of Leeds), then in the mid-19th century to the Pelham family (earls of Yarborough). Since 2013 it is held (theoretically) by Lady Anthea (Miller) Lycett, who is also a co-heiress to two ancient English baronies, Conyers and Fauconberg.

Although neither of the Schomberg families left much of a built legacy in France, this last Duke of Schomberg did commission buildings in England. In 1694, the Duke purchased and redeveloped Portland House on Pall Mall, and renamed it Schomberg House. By the mid-18th  century it was divided into three parts and developed for different purposes (flats, shops, residences for artists) but retained the name. In the 19th century it housed some of the War Office, and parts of it were demolished. Today only the façade remains.

Schomberg House in London (photo Steve Cadman)

About 20 miles outside London, towards the Chiltern Hills, the Duke built Hillingdon House in 1717, as a hunting lodge. After his death it passed to the Watson-Wentworth family (the earls, later marquess, of Rockingham). It was destroyed by fire in 1844 and rebuilt in a very different style. Since 1917 it has housed a station of the Royal Air Force.

Hillingdon House before 1844

Finally, we travel back to Saxony and the third family von Schönburg. This family may have had the same origins as those based in the Schönburg castle on the River Saale, but across the 13th to 15th centuries consolidated their holdings to a group of castles and fiefs on the upper valley of the Zwickauer Mulde river, which flows northwards into the Elbe. This region came to be known as ‘Schönburger Land’, a territory that stretched south towards the mountainous border between Saxony and Bohemia.

The two Saxonies (red and yellow) with the Schönburg lands in between (Waldenburg, Glauchau and Hartenstein)

These lands were next door to the similarly sized territories of the House of Reuss which eventually became an independent principality within the Holy Roman Empire, but that outcome was difficult here since the Schönburg lands fell into different jurisdictions, in Saxony, Thuringia and Bohemia, giving them different status in each, a different voice in each local assembly, and limited ability to consolidate into a ‘state’. For example, they built a ‘Neuschönburg’ on a conical hill in northwest Bohemia, in the Egertal (the valley of the Ohře in Czech, and the ruined castle is today called Šumburk). This passed out of their hands by the early 17th century however.

Šumburk, aka Neuschönburg, Czechia (photo Czeva)

One of the earliest Schönburg castles, Glauchau became the core property for the ‘comital branch’, that is, the one that did not become elevated to princely status. This was followed by Castle Lichtenstein (1286), Castle Waldenburg (1378), and Castle Hartenstein (1406). These names certainly reflect the forests and hills of this territory on the edge of the Ore Mountains (Erzgebirge): “light stone”, “forest castle” and “hard stone”. More estates still were added in the 16th century, notably the dissolved Priory of Wechselburg. The Schönburger Land ran roughly north to south from Waldenburg to Hartenstein, with Glauchau in the middle. All of these lordships were kept in one branch of the family or another for centuries, until the confiscations by the East German state in 1945 (a total loss estimated at over 30,000 square miles).

Lichtenstein Castle is perched on a hilltop overlooking the Zwickauer Mulde valley. It is mentioned as a lordship as early as 1212, given by the Emperor to the King of Bohemia (thus making its feudal position complicated later on), then leased by the latter to the Schönburg family. It was destroyed and rebuilt several times over the centuries, taking its current form in the middle of the 17th century. In 1797 a family crypt was built here and it houses several generations of the family. After 1945 it was used as a Catholic charity retirement home, until 2000 when it was re-acquired by the Schönburg family; in 2014 the local government forced its resale to developers and there is a strong local town historical group working to restore the largely decayed building.

Lichtenstein Castle in Saxony (photo Jörg Blobelt)

Hartenstein and Stein castles, to the south, have had a somewhat better recent fate. Built only about a mile apart, Hartenstein on a hilltop and Stein down in the valley, both have been held by the Schönburgs since the early 15th century. Hartenstein was initially built in the 12th century to guard the roads into the mountains with its rich minerals. It was created a county in 1323 (like Lichtenstein a fief of the King of Bohemia). Part of the County was sold to the Elector of Saxony in 1559. About the same time, the old castle was rebuilt in a Renaissance style—three hundred years later it was remodelled along neo-gothic lines. It was one of the grandest castles in the region until it was nearly completely destroyed by American bombs in April 1945. Left a ruin, it has been repurchased by the Schönburgs, and since 2002 there have been efforts to preserve what remains and partly rebuild its structures.

Hartenstein before it was bombed

In nearby Stein, the castle survived the war and the Communist era and is once again lived in by the Hartenstein branch of the family, after serving as a local history museum from 1954 to 1996. This structure is a fascinating complex of architectural styles, with an upper castle dating from the early 13th century and a lower castles from the late 15th century. Although it was also acquired by the Schönburgs in 1406, it was held by vassals until the mid-17th century. From 1702 it formed a separate lordship for a junior member.

Stein Castle on the Zwickauer Mulde (photo Caulobacter subvibrioides)

Like all Germanic noble houses, there were divisions and subdivisions. One of the biggest of these came in the 1530s, when there was a basic division between the Glauchau line and the eventual princely line, with Waldenburg and Hartenstein as main seats; and these two were divided between two lines in 1569. All branches of the family were elevated to the rank of count in 1700. In 1740, an agreement was reached with the Elector of Saxony in Dresden that recognised his suzerainty over several of these fiefs that had previously been held directly from the Emperor. In return the Saxon estates promised to assure legal and military guardianship in these areas.

Thuringia and Saxony (pink) in 1740, with Schönburg Land in orange at centre

Then in 1786, Count Otto Karl von Schönburg-Waldenburg established primogeniture as the ‘house law’ in anticipation of the extinction of the line of Schönburg-Hartenstein, which occurred later that same year. As a result of this increased landholding, the Holy Roman Emperor created him Fürst von Schönburg in 1790, with the rank of ‘Serene Highness’. His main contribution to the family’s estates was the development of Grünfeld Park at Waldenburg, in the 1780s.

Waldenburg Castle, Saxony

The strange hybrid vassalage of the Middle Ages continued even in the 18th century, with Hartenstein being a fief of the Elector of Saxony, while, until 1779, Waldenburg and Lichtenstein were fiefs of Bohemian Crown and thus subject to the Emperor in Vienna.

the Schönburg family claimed ancient Imperial links, with an early (legendary) knight who saved Charlemagne’s life during a battle with the Saxons, so the Emperor dragged his bloody fingers across his silver shield as a mark of commemoration

Though he was elevated to the rank of prince of the Empire, the family had little time to create a genuine state within the Empire before it was all dissolved in 1806. The Principality of Schönburg was mediatised, meaning the dynasty was still ranked as ‘princely’, but they held no actual sovereignty, its lands being more fully integrated into the new Kingdom of Saxony—though retaining special rights for several more decades. The 1st Prince had already died, in 1800, and his eldest son, Otto Viktor became the 2nd Prince. Otto Viktor and his brother Friedrich Alfred both pressed the leadership of the Confederation of the Rhine for recognition as a member state, then again lobbied the Congress of Vienna of 1814-15 to get their state recognised as independent in the post-Napoleonic world, to no avail. By this point, the brothers had already turned on each other: the Emperor had never formally recognised their father’s proclamation of primogeniture, so in 1813, the 2nd Prince renounced ownership of Hartenstein, keeping Waldenburg (the richer half) for himself, creating the two princely lines that survived into the modern era.

A monument to Prince Otto Victor in Waldenburg

Otto Viktor, now called either the 2nd Prince of Schönburg or the 1st Prince of Schönburg-Waldenburg, retired from military service (he had fought in the Napoleonic Wars in the service of Saxony then Prussia), and now turned his attentions to politics, actively working with the Saxon legislature to create a new constitution for the Kingdom in 1831 (which guaranteed his dynasty two seats in the Saxon Upper House). He tried to create a state-within-a-state in Waldenburg, introducing reforms to local government, but his rule was so paternalistic verging on despotic, that his ‘subjects’ angrily rose up during the 1848 Revolution and burned down Waldenburg Castle. He died in 1859, leaving a very large family including several sons who founded a number of sub-lineages.

The 2nd Prince acquired a residence worthy of princes in the capital of the Kingdom of Saxony, Dresden. The Palais Schönburg, built in the 1750s in the old town not far from the royal castle was owned until the early 19th century by the counts von Vitzthum. It was demolished in 1885 when this part of the city was re-laid out for wider streets

Palais Schönburg in Dresden

The 3rd Prince of Schönburg-Waldenburg, Otto Friedrich, extended the family’s reach outside of Saxony, acquiring many more estates in the mountainous far west of Bohemia, notably imperial forestland near the spa town of Marienbad (today’s Mariánské Lázně). Here he built a hunting lodge, Glatzen (Kladská), and set about reforesting the land and developing it for forestry and tourism. He also purchased (1835) the very cute Rothlhotta castle, on a rock in a lake (today’s Červená Lhota). He remained active like his father in the politics of the Kingdom of Saxony, mostly in defence of the last shreds of autonomy his family enjoyed in his hereditary estates. Nevertheless, the last rights of Schönburg sovereignty were lost to Saxony in 1878, though the family was permitted to keep the rank of Serene Highness.

Rothlhotta (Červená Lohta), Czechia

Otto Friedrich was succeeded in 1893 by his grandson, Otto Viktor II, since his son had died a few years before aged only 32. The 4th Prince was thus only 11 when he became head of the family. As he grew to maturity, like many wealthy aristocrats of his day, he travelled the world and became a collector. Between 1907 and 1910 he journeyed extensively in the Middle East and East Africa, bringing back numerous objects for a museum he established at Waldenburg. He served at a royal court, though not in Dresden, but in Potsdam for the German Emperor in the Life Guards. In the Spring of 1914, the Prince of Schönburg was active in supporting the candidacy and installation of his sister, Princess Sophie, and her husband Prince Wilhelm of Wied, in their new role as Prince and Princess of Albania, in that country’s first steps towards independence from the Ottoman Empire. It was not a success, and they were driven out by September. By that point, of course, World War One had broken out, and the 4th Prince of Schönburg-Waldenburg was amongst the first casualties on the Western Front.

Otto Viktor II, Prince of Schönburg-Waldenburg
The Prince and Princess of Albania

The Prince and Princess of Wied had a daughter, Princess Marie Eleonore, who married a cousin, Prince Alfred of Schönburg-Waldenburg, from a second line descended from the 2nd Prince (Hugo, d. 1897). This branch was established at Castle Droyssig, but went extinct in the male line after Alfred’s death in 1941 and that of his father in 1945. This castle, rebuilt by the counts von Hoya on the site of an ancient provostry of the Order of the Holy Sepulchre, was acquired by the 2nd Prince in the 1830s and given to his son Hugo. The family installed a bear pit in the moat in the 1850s, and even after the family was dispossessed of the castle in 1948, the bears remained, or rather, were reinstated (in 1955). The ‘Bärenzwinger’ is still a local tourist attraction, and after it fell into disrepair, it was renovated and bears reintroduced in 2003.

Droyssig Castle (photo Christian Bier)
the bears’ pit at Droyssig (photo Christian Bier)

The 4th Prince, Otto Viktor II, was succeeded by his brother, Günther, who endured the dismantling of the German Empire and the Kingdom of Saxony in particular—in 1918, his family were the largest landowners in Saxony after the royal family itself. In the two decades that followed, he made Waldenburg Castle a centre of art and culture, and became President of the German Art Society in Berlin. The 5th Prince was arrested with the Communist takeover in 1945 and interred in a camp on the island of Rügen in the Baltic, then escaped to the British Zone. Estates and castles in both East Germany and Czechoslovakia were confiscated. He lived in Celle for several years, then the United States. Returning to Europe in 1957, he died in 1960 in Salzburg. He had no children, so passed his inheritance to a second cousin.

Günther, last sovereign prince of Schönburg-Waldenburg

Wolf, 6th Prince of Schönburg-Waldenburg came from a branch established by his grandfather, Prince Georg, another younger son of the 2nd Prince. Georg had served as Adjutant-General of the King of Saxony, and acquired the castles of Hermsdorf and Guteborn in Upper Lusatia as his portion of the succession, which became the seat of this branch. This hilly wooded area northeast of Dresden is crowded with castles built by the nobility in the 16th and 17th centuries. Guteborn remained a smaller residence while nearby Hermsdorf was transformed in the 1730s into a more glamorous baroque schloss. Both were acquired by the counts von Hoya in the 18th century, then passed to the Schönburgs by marriage in the 19th. Guteborn Castle became much more closely associated with the monarchy of Saxony in November 1918 when the last king, Frederick Augustus III, took refuge here during the revolutions that followed the collapse of the German Empire. He signed his abdication here too. Due to the castle’s association with the monarchy, after the Schönburg family were pushed out in 1948 by the Communists, they blew up the building entirely. Only a round chapel and the castle’s moat remain. Hermsdorf was transformed into a nursing home, so its interiors were mostly destroyed. Today it is owned by the local municipality.

Guteborn Castle
Hermsdorf Castle (photo SchiDD)

The 6th Prince died in 1983 leaving only three daughters; his brother Georg also had daughters (though one married very well, to Archduke Franz Salvator, of the Tuscan line of the House of Habsburg) and died the year before; their youngest brother Wilhelm had died in 1944, so the succession passed to a nephew, Ulrich (b 1940). He has a daughter, so his heirs are his brother Wolf and his nephew Kai-Philipp (b. 1969). The latter is divorced and has no children, so this princely title may end unless it is allowed to pass to distant cousins in the next branch over, whose status is challenged.

These are the descendants of yet another son of the 2nd Prince, Ernst (d. 1915). Prince Ernst’s son Friedrich Ernst (d. 1910) made a very good marriage into the highest rungs of European royalty, though politically ‘hot’: Princess Alice of Bourbon, daughter of the Carlist Pretender to the Spanish throne, the Duke of Madrid. By Carlist standards she was an Infanta of Spain, but by those who supported King Alfonso XIII she was not. The young couple was married in 1897 and almost immediately squabbled over money—she later claimed she’d been forced into the marriage; news headlines spread gossip that she ran off with her footman, and within a few years they had an annulment. This meant that her husband’s family tried to deny the legitimacy of her son, Karl Leopold, though he was born during the marriage. Karl Leopold later moved to Tahiti where he had several children, also before he married his wife. So there is an heir, Vetea-Pierre (b. 1941), but it’s doubtful the family would allow him to succeed. Princess Alice did remarry, and moved to Florida.

Princess Alicia de Borbón

The second major branch of the princely house of Schönburg, based in Hartenstein, and its adjacent castle (their seat), the Castle of Stein, was established in the family division of 1813. Friedrich Alfred, 1st Prince of Schönburg-Hartenstein, rebuilt Hartenstein Castle in 1820 in a neogothic style. He died in 1840, and though the princely title went to his younger brother, Heinrich Eduard, by law, the Hartenstein estates were re-divided between surviving siblings, meaning the eldest brother—the Prince of Schönburg-Waldenburg—was now owner of Waldenburg and half of Hartenstein. Very complicated. Did this mean he now had one and a half seats in the Saxon legislature?

Heinrich Eduard, 2nd Prince of Schönburg-Hartenstein

The 2nd Prince of Schönburg-Hartenstein moved his branch of the family into the orbit of Habsburg Austria, becoming Catholic in the process (in 1822), and notably purchasing a grand palace in Vienna in 1841, near the Belvedere Palace. The Palais Schönburg, originally built in the early 18th century by the Starhembergs, remained their main urban seat until it was sold in the 1970s to a Viennese bank—restored in 2007 it is now used for events.

Palais Schönburg in Vienna (photo Helmuth Furch)

This branch of the family’s move to the south is indicated in the family tree by multiple marriages into the highest Viennese aristocracy: The 2nd Prince married Princess Pauline von Schwarzenberg in 1817 followed soon after her death by her sister Ludovika. His son Alexander married Princess Karoline von und zu Liechtenstein in 1855 bringing that family’s characteristic name Alois into the family for the first time for their son.

Heinrich Eduard was succeeded in 1872 by his son, Alexander, the 3rd Prince, who was a diplomat and a politician in the Bohemian local legislature and later in the Imperial House of Lords.

Alexander, 3rd Prince of Schönburg-Hartenstein

In 1896, he passed the title and estates on to his son Alois, the 4th Prince of Schönburg-Hartenstein. The 4th Prince was even more active in Austrian society and military affairs than his predecessors: in 1899 he became President of the Austrian Red Cross (a post he held until 1913), and in Spring 1918, the Emperor Carl promoted him to Colonel-General in the imperial army with the task of keeping order in the increasingly chaotic capital—he arrested strike leaders and army deserters in particular. That summer Schönburg led one last push of the Austrian army into northern Italy and suffered a terrible defeat. Unlike many former nobles, he kept his hand in affairs in the establishment of the Austrian Republic, and in 1934—as a now very experienced statesman—was temporarily Minister of Defence (March to September). In the years that followed, Alois von Schönburg was an avid supporter of the autonomy of Austria and worked to block the rise of National Socialism. He died at Hartenstein in 1944.

Alois, 4th Prince of Schönburg-Hartenstein

Since then the heads of the junior princely branch have been very quiet: the 5th Prince, Alexander, died in 1956, and was succeeded by his grandson, Aloys (his own son Aloys having died in Prague in May 1945 from battle wounds—in fact, four of the sons of the 5th Prince were killed in the war, two of them just teenagers. The 6th Prince lived in Munich and died before he reached thirty in 1972 and was succeeded by his uncles who had remained in Vienna, Hieronymous (d. 1992) and Alexander (d. 2018). The current 9th Prince is the latter’s son, Johannes (b. 1951). The family continue to intermarry with the old aristocracy of the Austrian Monarchy: the 8th Prince married a Windisch-Grätz princess, while the current heir, Prince Aloys Louis (b. 1982) recently married a Beaufort-Spontin duchess.

There are numerous members of the Schönburg-Hartenstein branch, as there are also of the branches of the Schönburg-Glauchau counts. Though they held a lower rank, this branch an even more impressive array of castles and palaces in this corner of Saxony, some of which have been re-acquired and restored. 19th-century German history is littered with counts and countesses from this branch. The most famous member in recent years is the colourful woman known in the press as the ‘punk princess’ in the 1980s, Princess Gloria of Thurn und Taxis, born Countess Gloria von Schönburg-Glauchau in 1960. Her brother, Count Alexander, is the head of the comital branch and a prominent journalist.

Princess Gloria in the 1980s–Schön! (photo Ron Galella)